THE BULLETIN IS SPONSORED BY WORLD JEWISH RELIEF & JEWISH CARE 2 3 GODI[NJA SKUP[TINA ANNUAL ASSEMBLY Od devet godi{njih skup{tina Jevrejske zajednice “La Benevolencija”, SaLon je donio Salon was reporting only about eight annual assemblies of the “La Benevolencija” Jewish izvje{taje sa osam, jer je Salon za godinu mla|i od Zajednice, pa prema tome i njenih godi{njih Society, although there were nine of them. It happened so because SaLon is a year younger skup{tina. U redakciji nije ba{ bilo popularno praviti izvje{taj sa tih sjednica. U po~etku je than both the Society and its annual assemblies. Reporting from these assemblies has not isticano kao zna~ajno da se pobilje`e sve formalnosti sa skupa, ali je to vremenom postalo been a popular assignment among the editors. At the beginning the emphasis was to record jednoli~no, pa su na{i izvjestaji li~ili k’o jaje jajetu jedan na drugi; mogli ste lijepo uzeti all the formalities from the meetings. Things started repeating themselves and the reports pro{logodi{nji, promijeniti ime predsjednika (ne uvijek), nekoliko datuma, poneko ime began to look like eggs from the same basket. Sometimes it was possible to take a report of a izabranih ~lanova odbora i stvar bi i{la. previous year, Sad da li je tome uzrok neinventivnost SaLon-ovog izvje{ta~a, ili su te skup{tine upale u istu change the kolote~inu, pa je izgledalo kao da svi predsjednici pi{u izvje{taje na potpuno identi~an name of the na~in, samo ih razli~ito pro~itaju - neki razgovjetnije, a neki manje razgovjetno - to i nije president (not toliko bitno. always), the Ove godine, dakle 17 septembra 2003 , ta deveta Skup{tina je odr`ana u bitno druga~ijoj names of some atmosferi. To, istina, nije proizilazilo ni iz “noviteta” u izvje{taju predsjednika Borisa Montilja, voted for mem- niti iz polemi~nosti i vatrenosti u~esnika u debati - koje zapravo nije bilo - nego iz jednog bers to the mnogo fundamentalnijeg razloga: vlasnici prostora na{e mjesne zajednice su napravili takav board along sistem zagrijavanja prostora u kome se dosljedno realizuje princip “{to vam je bog dao i ja }u with the dates vam dati”, pa su na taj dan, 17 septembra, kad je u Londonu bilo 27 stepeni Celziusa, pustili and you could grijanje do daske. ^lanovi Odbora su se preznojavali u radnom predsjedni{tvu, a ~lanovi have the new report. The reason for that it is not im- portant, al- though the ex- planation could be attributed to the insufficiently inventive “Salon” reporter or to the fact that the assembly meetings were so much alike all the time. It seemed that all the presidents were writing their reports in an identical manner but that they read them in a different way – some more clearly than the others. The atmosphere of this ninth assembly meeting which was held on the 17 of September 2003 was completely different. To tell the truth it was neither the result of a “new” approach in the report by Boris Montiljo, the President or of a very animated discussion of those active in the debate – it virtually did not exist. The reason was of a more fundamental nature: the heating BILTEN JEVREJSKE system used by owners of the hall we rent for our meetings never pays any attention to ZAJEDNICE “PRIJATELJI weather conditions. Thus it happened that on that Wednesday evening when the tempera- LA BENEVOLENCIJE” ture in London reached 27 centigrade the heating was on to its full capacity. The members of the board who had to sit officially at the table were perspiring, while the members of the LONDON Society, whose attendance was large, coped with the problem in different ways. Some of them, looked for places with highest draft, or followed the events looking through the win- zajednice - koji su ovoga puta u zaista velikom broju prisustvovali Skup{tini - su se snalazili dow. Most of them though were patiently sitting; probably believing that one has to get used kako su znali i umjeli: jedni su tra`ili m jesta najve}e promaje, ili pratili rad Skup{tine kroz to the heat because, as they thought, Mother Earth was responsible for it. The President and prozor, a drugi (ipak ve}ina) strpljivo su sjedili, vjerovatno smatraju}i da je sve to rezultat the Board did everything to adapt to the climate conditions. It was stated in the report that BULLETIN OF zagrijavanja maj~ice zemlje na {ta se treba privikavati. I Predsjednik i Odbor su u~inili sve da the work of the Club is most important, but as we were writing about this in SaLon we will not JEWISH SOCIETY se rad uskladi sa takvim atmosferskim prilikama: u izvje{taju je re~eno da je rad kluba go into details here in order not to repeat ourselves. Women Group has been the most “THE FRIENDS OF nazna~ajniji, ali to ne}emo prepri~avati, jer bi se ponavljali devoted one, but their reports have been getting , po{to smo o tome redovno pisali u Salonu; rad `enske ever shorter. The outings are most interesting. The LA BENEVOLENCIJA” sekcije je najpo`rtvovaniji, samo su izvje{taji sve kra}i; state of the finances is in order. Our sponsors are LONDON izleti su najzanimljiviji, blagajna je uredna, sponzori nas generous. Only the sentence describing the work podr`avaju. Samo je u re~enici posve}enoj radu redakcije of Salon board sounded more sympathetic, because SaLona uneseno vi{e su}uti, jer je to “mala i umorna it is “a small and tired” board which in spite of redakcija” koja ipak istrajava. Treba joj pa`ljivo obrisati everything persists. The sweat from their brow znoj sa ~ela. should be wiped away carefully. AUTUMN 2003 je to zaista r e d o v n a Skup{tina koja je odra`avala It really was a r e g u l a r Assembly Meeting realnost na{e Zajednice, u kojoj nema ni~ega reflecting the reality of our Society, with nothing spektakularnoga, ali se oni oblici dru{tvenoga `ivota koji spectacular in it but with the continuance of those su prihva}eni od ~lanstva istrajno odr`avaju. Mo`da vi{e ne treba ni o~ekivati. forms of social life which are accepted by the mem- bers. Probably nothing more should be expected. Na kraju je izvr{en izbor Odbora u koji su u{li: Boris Montiljo, Bulka Kamhi -Danon, Jadranka Smiljani}, The meeting ended after the election of the new Dra{ko Suvajd`i}, Olivera Risti}, Irena Altarac i Branko Board: Boris Montiljo, Bulka Kamhi-Danon, Danon. Jadranka Smiljanic, Drasko Suvajdzic, Olivera Ristic, Irena Altarac and Branko Danon. The President U narednoj godini predsjednik Odbora }e biti Boris for the next year will be Boris Montiljo. Montiljo. IInntteernrneet ta Addddressress: h:tt opp:e//www.ln.net.ba-ab/e~nla_e.obret.noerg/s/saalonlon 4 5 6 Jo{ jedno ljeto gospodnje je za nama. Sada se li~no osloba|anje izra`ava, me|u Another summer that the Lord gave us is behind. Nowadays, among other things, we KAKO PREPOZNATI SARAJEVO ostalim, i putovanjima. Prije jedne decenije, i ne{to vi{e, provjeravali su nam po express our newly found freedoms by travelling. A decade ago and a bit more, through- Evropi identitet na prolazima na kojima pi{e “ostali”. Sada, kad putujemo van evropske out Europe, our identity was checked at gates marked with “Others”.Today, when we Pi{e Gojko Beri} zajednice, dokazujemo da smo Evropljani. ^ak i tamo, odakle smo. Dok se i oni ne travel outside the boundaries of the EU we declare ourselves as Europeans. Even, where Da nedavno nisam upoznao jednog Italijana, ne bih ni znao koliko sam sretan {to `ivim priklju~e… Slovenija ve} naredne godine. we originate from. Until the time they join in… Slovenija, the next year already. u Sarajevu. \uzepe Kado pututje po zemljama jugoisto~ne Evrope i prodaje gra|evinske U onoj inkarnaciji koja nam je oduzeta, te`ili smo za time da idemo na ljetovanje u In the incarnation that was taken away from us, we were inclined to go abroad for our i druge ma{ine jedne velike italijanske firme. Neke od njih ko{taju i po milion dolara. inostranstvo. Italija, Gr~ka, [panija, Tunis, ~ak i Sej{eli su bili razmatrani kao opcija. holydays. Italy, Greece, Spain, Tunisia, even the Seychelles were contemplated. Na mene ga je uputila jedna moja prijateljica iz Udina. \uzepe mi je donio bocu crnog A sad, iz inostranstva, opet ho}emo u inostranstvo – na Jadran, u dr`ave koje se zovu And now, from abroad, we want to go abroad – to the Adriatic, to countries now called vina iz svog podruma i kutiju italijanskih {pageta, ali mu ja, na`alost nisam mogao Hrvatska, Slovenija, Srbija i Crna Gora….Idemo i u Sarajevo ili Mostar – “poslom” – Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro…. We travel to Sarajevo or Mostar, on “busi- pomo}i da sazna ono {to ga je jedino interesovalo: kako se zovu najve}e pilane u ali i da vidimo, procjenimo, do`ivimo - da li smo emotivno i ina~e, daleko ili jo{ ness”, but also to see, judge, experience - whether we are emotionally and otherwise far Bosni, gdje se nalaze i kako se do njih sti`e. \uzepe je sigurno mislio kako jedan uvijek blizu; koliko se brzo udaljavamo jer `ivot tamo te~e mimo nas. or still close; how fast we are drifting away, because life over there goes on without our “takav novinar” mora znati sve, jednako o politi~arima, kafanama i kuplerajima, kao i O tome, u ovom broju od iskusnih i od mladih, od nas i od drugih. involvement. o pilanima i medvjedima. These you will find in this edition; From the experienced and from the young, from us Bio je to visok ri|okos ~ovjek atletske gra|e. Nije mogao imati vi{e od ~etrdeset godina. Evo jo{ jednog priloga na{em nastojanju da zaokru`imo utiske o ljetu koje je upravo and from others. Kako ga ne bih posve razo~arao, odveo sam ga u carstvo Ba{~ar{ije u }evabd`inicu pro{lo. kod “Hod`i}a”, koja se smatra najelitnijom u Sarajevu. Poru~io sam svom novom Mlada Ana Smiljani} skrenula je na{u pa`nju u par navrata na svoje priloge pune zanimljivih Here is another contribution to our effort to summarize our impressions from the summer that poznaniku pun pladanj }evap~i}a, sud`uke i drugog mesa sa ro{tilja. Dok smo ~ekali opa`anja. Uz visoki standard njenog nesputanog pisanja, veoma je va`no da ona ponuka has just gone by. jelo, \uzepe mi je ispri~ao da mu je `ena ro|ena Beogra|anka, Srpkinja koja je pred rat druge mlade ljude da se jave sa svojim prilozima. Mi iz redakcije `elimo da ohrabrimo i Young Ana Smiljanic has turned our attention to her perceptive writings a couple of times by `ivjela u Rijeci, odakle je do{la u Udine. Upoznali su se u plesnoj {koli i danas imaju podr`imo ovakav trend. now. In addition to the high standard of her uninhibited writings, it is as important that she osmogodi{njeg sina. \uzepe je studirao ma{instvo u Sloveniji i obra}ao mi se na incites other young people to come forward with their thoughts and feelings. We, the editing mje{avini italijanskog, slovena~kog i biv{eg srpskohrvatskog jezika. Bilo je zabavno slu{ati ga. “Moja du{a vibrira na Balkan. Obo`avam Balkan”, ka`e. “Rim mi je dosadan, board want to encourage and support this trend. Da li sam suvi{e mlada za sje}anja na djetinjstvo? jer u Rimu `ive samo Italijani. A Sarajevo je manjifiko, na ulicama vidim razne ljude.” Konobar donese jedan ve}i i jedan manji pladanj. “O, mama mia!”, re~e \uzepe gledaju}i Gledaju}i na svoje djetinjstvo, mogu re}i da sa zadovoljstvom mogu da se prisjetim mnogih Am I too young for memories of my childhood? svoju porciju specijaliteta sa ro{tilja. Nozdrve su mu se {irile u dodiru sa mirisom sretnih trenutaka. Me|u ovim uvijek se jave veselje i sre}a vezane za ljetovanja. Ponovo Looking back on my childhood, I can say that I’m lucky to be able to retrieve many joyful }evap~i}a i toplog somuna. “Super!”, rekao je ve} nakon prvog zalogaja. “Super!”, ponovio je jo{ mnogo puta. sam ove godine posjetila Jadran. Ustanovila sam da su me sretna sje}anja ponovo preplavila, memories. Among these I can always recall the joy and happiness of summer holidays. This ali va`nije od svega, sada kada sam starija, uvidjela sam da su postojale mnoge stvari za year I visited the Adriatic Sea once again. I found that the happy memories came flooding back, Kad smo se vra}ali, \uzepe re~e: “Sinjor Beric, vi sretan covek!” “A za{to, sinjor \uzepe?” koje sam bila suvi{e mlada da cijenim i koje kona~no mogu da razumijem. but most importantly now that I am older, there are many things which I was too young to Zato sto svaki dan mo`ete jesti cevapi”, odgovorio je zagledan u ba{~ar{ijske du}ane, Jedna od stvari koje sam shvatila jeste kako vrijeme brzo prolazi. Raste{, mijenja{ se i appreciate and can now finally understand. a{}inice i }evabd`inice. razvija{; samo priroda i ljepota Jadrana uvijek ostaje ista. One thing that I realized is just how quickly time flies by. You grow, change and develop but the Ah, ti ludi stranci, pomislih. Oni ni{ta ne shvataju. Njima je ovdje uvijek dobro, bilo da do|u na tri dana ili na ~etiri godine. Bezbroj puta sam pomislio kako bi bilo mnogo ^im sam stigla, krenula sam na pla`u i nije mi trebao ni tren da shvatim {ta mi je ~itavo nature and beauty of the Adriatic Sea always remains the same. bolje da sam i ja, poput mnogih, oti{ao iz ovog grada i iz potonule zemlje koja se zvala vrijeme nedostajalo, i kako }e ovo biti jedan od najljep{ih trenutaka za koje sam `ivjela Straight away after my arrival, I headed for the beach and it only took me one moment to realize Jugoslavija. A sada me neki \uzepe, koga sam prvi put u `ivotu sreo, uvjerava da sam ove godine. what I have been missing and how this will be amongst the best moments I have lived for this sretan {to sam ostao. Jebi se, \uzepe! Ti nema{ pojma u kakvoj zemlji `ivim. Ipak, Zadovoljstvo i milina koje izaziva izraziti miris svje`eg zraka, poti~e intenzitet i dubinu year. \uzepe je u izvjesnom smislu u pravu: u `ivotu je sve relativno, a mudrome je i komarac udisaja, {to te navodi da svaki cijeni{ kao da ti je posljednji. Po prvi put po~inje{ obra}ati The distinctive smell of the fresh air is so pleasurable and sweet that it encourages your every muzika. A naro~ito je u pravu kad je rije~ o sarajevskim }evap~i}ima. pa`nju na pokrete vlastitih plu}a i brzinu disanja i svaki udisaj koristi{ da zadovoljstvo i breath to consist of depth and intensity making you appreciate it as if it is your last. For the first Sve se mijenja, ali ono {to je na Ba{~ar{iji vje~no, to je njen neodoljivi zov hedonizma. sre}u prihvata{ sa opu{tanjem. time you begin paying attention to the movement of your lungs and the speed of Zov }evap~i}a! Zasljepljuju}e svjetlucavo plavo more toliko je sveobuhvatno i your breathing, using each breath to make you feel completely at ease with Ljeto je i hiljade Sarajlija, koji danas `ive na raznim stranama svijeta, dolaze da posjete ~isto da sa prvim pogledom koji baci{ ugleda{ svoj odraz dok se satisfaction and happiness. svoj grad. Nakon {to raspakuju kofere i pozdrave se sa rodbinom, put ih vodi pravo na sunce odbija od malih treperavih talasa koji klize ka pli}aku, tamo The first glance of the blinding blistering blue sea is so overwhelming and clear Ba{~ar{iju, na “deset u somunu” kod “@elje”, u “Mrkvu”, “Peticu”, kod “Hod`i}a” … gdje se djeca igraju. that you can see your reflection in it while the sun reflects from the little ripples Ba{~ar{ija je mo`da jedino mjesto gdje se Sarajevo i njegovi biv{i stanovnici mogu Posmatrala sam malu djevo~icu koja je jurcala uokolo i igrala se u which glide towards the shallow end where the children play. me|usobno prepoznati. Dolaze}i sa nakalemljenim ameri~kim ili evropskim pijesku. Htjela je u vodu, ali je lagani strah naveo na oklijevanje. I observed a little girl running around, and playing in the sand. She wanted to go senzibilitetom i obi~ajima, generacija Sarajlija koja danas ima 20 ili 25 godina ima Kada je kona~no sko~ila u more, istr~ala je nazad u eksploziji in the water but her slight fear made her hesitate. When she finally jumped in she izvjesnih mentalnih te{ko}a u kontaktu sa gradom u kome je ro|ena. U njenoj percepciji uzbu|enja, tr~e}i ukrug, zbunjena dilemom da li da ostane u vodi ran back out in a burst of excitement while running round in confusion as to Sarajevo djeluje kao normalan, ~ak bogat grad. Oni vide mno{tvo kafi}a i ljetnih ba{ti, ili da prvo obavijesti roditelje o svom dostignu}u. Kako je tr~ala whether to remain in the water or firstly inform her parents about her achievement. povazdan ispunjenih, obi~no mladim svijetom. Ulice su prepune prelijepih, ukusno mali otisci stopala u pijesku ostajali su za njenim sitnim koracima, As she ran, her little steps left tiny foot prints in the sand while her smile and obu~enih djevojaka, koje griju svoje gole pupkove na plus 30 i vi{e stepeni. Biv{i Sarajlija sti~e dojam da svaki srednjo{kolac ima mobitel, a svaki drugi automobil, i da a njeno smijanje je odavalo sretno uzbu|enje. Posmatraju}i ovu laughter showed that she was fluttering in happiness. Watching this girl among u Sarajevu gotovo niko ni{ta ne radi, ali da svi tro{e. Sve to mo`e izgledati privla~no, djevoj~icu, usred druge djece koja su se smijala i vriskala, u~inilo other children laughing and crying seems like a reflection of myself many years zar ne? mi se kao da posmatram sebe samu, mnogo godina ranije. Zaista je ago and I am truly amazed at how quickly time has passed by. I was becoming za~u|uju}e kako je vrijeme brzo pro{lo. Sve vi{e sam postajala aware that you have to live every day to the maximum to make each moment Sreo sam jednog pametnog mladi}a koji `ivi u [vedskoj. ^ita “Oslobo|enje” na Internetu svjesna kako je potrebno svaki dan do`ivjeti do maksimuma da bi count. The one thing you can never do is change the past by turning back time i `elio je da me upozna. Iz Sarajeva je oti{ao po~etkom rata, kao desetogodi{njak. svaki trenutak dobio na zna~aju. Jedno je sigurno da ne mo`e{ and reminiscing at such happy memories makes me want to have many more. Danas ga grad zbunjuje. Zbunjuje ga : u listovima i magazinima sve sami kriminal, promijeniti pro{lost vra}aju}i vrijeme unazad. Osvrtanje na ova nacionalisti~ki ispadi, {trajkovi i glupe parlamentarne debate bez kraja i konca o divna sje}anja samo poja~ava `elju za jo{. To complete the day, I sat and watched the sun set and amazed myself at the pitanjima za koja u svijetu ve} odavno postoje prirodna i logi~na rje{enja. Na kraju me beauty of the sun slowly hiding itself behind the sea leaving behind a spectrum of je, ipak, donekle utje{io. “U [vedskoj se `ivi bolje, a u Sarajevu se `ivi ljep{e”, ka`e Upotpunjuju}i dan, sjela sam da posmatram zalazak, absorbovana orange, red and yellow colours. The lengthily branches of the trees on the beach dok sjedimo pod jednim od velikih suncobrana sa oznakom Coca-Cole u Ferhadiji. On, ljepotom sunca koje se lagano sakrivalo iza mora ostavljaju}i za sobom spektar narand`astih, which are tilted to face the sun look alive and as if they are reaching for the sun themselves- naravno, ne shvata da u mno{tvu prolaznika koje posmatramo vi{e od polovine njih crvenih i `utih boja. Izdu`ene grane drve}a na obali - otklonjene u pravcu sunca - izgledaju however like myself they have to wait for another day. nema mo`da ni dvije marke u d`epu. `ive i kao da `ele da ga prihvate. No, poput mene, mora}e sa~ekati novi dan. Too exhausted from doing nothing on the beach makes it a huge effort when it comes to going Ne upu{tam se u precizan opis dana{njeg Sarajeva. Za takvu ambiciju bilo bi potrebno Iscrpljena od besposli~arenja na obali sa velikim naporom sam po{la u krevet to ve~e. to bed that evening. You know this means there is one day less before heading for the polluted, mnogo konkretnih saznanja sa razli~itih mjesta. Tek rijetke ru{evine podsje}aju na rat, Svjesna sam toga da to zna~i jo{ jedan dan manje prije kretanja u pravcu zaga|enih, crowded and rainy streets of London city which are waiting for me when I come back home. na ulicama je sve vi{e skupih automobila, a elitni restorani i ekskluzivne prodavnice, prenapu}enih i ki{nih ulica Londona, koje me i{~ekuju na povratku ku}i. Ipak, nije za However, we can’t possibly expect to live life like this forever, but I travel back with a smile on kakvih prije rata nije bilo, li~e na one iz evropskih metropola. Nekada kultno izleti{te o~ekivati da mo`emo ovako zauvijek `ivjeti, no ja se vra}am sa osmjehom na licu, znaju}i my face knowing that next year I will return once again to this breathtaking country. Sarajlija, Ilid`a je pretvorena u tajkunsko naselje, prepuno vila s bazenima, izgra|enih da }u naredne godine da se ponovo vratim ovoj zemlji koja me ostavlja bez daha. po skorojevi}evskom ukusu njihovih bogatih vlasnika, gotovo isklju~ivo Sand`aklija, 7 8 9 The call of }evap~i}i. na ~iju beskrupuloznu vitalnost autohtone Sarajlije gledaju s nemo}nim prezirom. Sli~nim gra|evinama naru{eni su i drugi djelovi grada. It is summer and thousands of Sarajevo people, living today worldwide, come to visit their Moje ljetovanje u Makarskoj hometown. After opening their suitcases and talking to their relatives, their way takes them Ali, postoji i ono drugo, ve}insko Sarajevo; Sarajevo nezaposlenih i siroma{nih, Sarajevo directly to Ba{~ar{ija to the portions in the well known }evap~i}i shops ljudi koji svakodnevno ~ekaju u redu pred kuhinjama Crvenog kri`a, Sarajevo poni`enih Ovo me se doima kao da moram pisati školsku doma}u zada}u. Ali ovoga puta ne za školu penzionera i sirotinjskih ku}a i dvori{ta. Trebalo bi danima i danima obilaziti ta jadna Ba{~ar{ija is probably the only remaining place where Sarajevo and its former inhabitants i u~itelja nego ovamo u nekom sasvim druk~ijem vremenu i prostoru, za neke sasvim druge mjesta, na kojima `ive oni najsiroma{niji, pa oblikovati nekakvu sliku o gradu za koji can recognise each other. Coming with taken on American or European sensibility and klince pa u neku ruku i ocjenjiva~e. Tema dobro poznata; kako sam (i gdje) proveo nikada ne smije{ re}i da o njemu sve zna{. customs, the Sarajevo generation between the age of twenty and twenty five has some mental ljetovanje. I sada kao i onda, imao sam muke kada sam negdje u septembru morao pisati difficulties in contact with the city in which they were born. One perception of Sarajevo is ovakvu zada}u. Još preplanuo od sunca, mislima i dalje negdje na moru i od svih Rijetko se vozim tramvajem, pa i tada ne dalje od Dolac malte, ali sam neki dan krenuo that it seems to be a normal, even a rich city. These young people can see numerous cafés and dogodovština, i nezaboravnih ljetnih utisaka, baš ništa da mi padne na pamet. A sutra valja “trojkom” do “Oslobo|enja” u Ned`ari}ima. Ukrcao sam se kod Katedrale i sjeo, a ve} summer gardens always occupied with mostly young people. The streets are full of beautiful to donijeti u školu… Ali što je tu je, pa evo. na slijede}oj stanici tramvaj je bio pun. Unutra je bilo zagu{ljivo i sparno. Neko dovikuje tastefully dressed girls warming their bare belly buttons at thirty and more centigrade. The Ugodno smo se smjestili u Rayan Airbus. Stjuardesa nas je na nekom meni nepoznatom voza~u da isklju~i grijanje, “nemere se ostat’ od vru}ine”, ali voza~ ne haje. Neki impression of the former Sarajevo man is that each and every high school student has a putnici dr`e u rukama plasti~ne boce s vodom, povremeno naginju iz njih, kvase ruke mobile and one in two has a car and that almost nobody works in Sarajevo and that everybody engleskom jeziku upoznala sa kapetanom koji se zvao Dragan (zaboravio sam prezime) i u ime cijele posade po`eljela nam ugodno putovanje. U Trstu smo odmah sjeli u auto. Mogla i rashla|uju vrat i lice. “Ima vi{e od trides’ stepeni”, govori jedna `ena. “ima i ~eteres”, spends. All this may look attractive, may it not? ka`e ~ovjek koji sjedi do nje. bi ovo biti i korisna informacija; let za troje i rentakar (mo`e u Hrvatsku, ne mo`e u Bosnu) I have met a clever young man who lives in Sweden. He reads “Oslobo|enje” from the dvadeset dana - sav taj luksuz za nešto manje od sedam stoja. Vo`nja magistralom ugodna, Nisam ni primjetio kad su u tramvaj u{la trojica o{i{anih mladi}a. Izgledali su kao da su Internet and he wanted to meet me. He left Sarajevo at the beginning of the war at the age of ali duga. U po~etku mi je trebalo da se prilagodim na desnu stranu i magistralu. Prolazimo tek pu{teni iz zeni~kog zatvora. Jedan od njih je pu{io. “Ne pu{i se u tramvaju”, ten. He is confused by the city today. He is confused by Bosnia: all the papers and magazines kroz poznata dalmatisnka mjesta - prazna. Nema gostiju. Babe u crnom i dede, sa tablom upozorava ga stariji putnik koji je stajao u njihovoj blizini. Pu{a~ ga je samo prijete}i write mostly about crime, nationalist disturbances, strikes and absurd endless parliamentary “zimmer frei” ~ame pored prazne ku}erine. Tu`na slika. Idemo dalje. Pomalo me hvata pogledao i nastavio da dimi. Starac koji je sjedio ispred mene dr`ao je na koljenima debates on issues for which natural and logical solutions already exist in the world for a long zamor. Sjedamo na kaficu. U kafani pored mora samo par mještana. Idemo dalje. Slaven mali kanister s vodom. Napio bi se iz kanistera, a onda bi vodu sipao po glavi i dlanom time. Nevertheless finally he somewhat consoled me. “The life in Sweden is better, but in preuzima volan. Malo bih zakunjao, ali se bojim. Prvi put vozi desnom stranom i to nje`no trljao svoju }elu. Voda se razlijevala po tramvaju. Sarajevo it is more pleasant”, he said while we were sitting under one of the big parasols magistralom. Brzo je skop~ao. Pomalo po~inje sumrak a mi tek pred Zadrom. Ali ne `urimo. Uto se za~u `enski glas: “Ljudi, ukrado{e mi nov~anik.” Putnici se uskome{a{e, ali se bearing the Coca-Cola logo on it. He has not understood of course that probably more than I tako mic po mic i eto nas u Makarskoj u jedan sat po pono}i. Putovali smo dakle “samo” sve zavr{i na tome. Pogledao sam prema mjestu na kome su stajala ona tri mladi}a. Nije half of the passers by have no more than two Marks in their pockets. dvanaest sati. ih vi{e bilo. I will not get into precise description of present day Sarajevo. Such ambition would require Moje ljetovanje anno domini 2003 proveo sam dakle sa Verom i Slavenom u cijelosti u tom U Sarajevu, kao {to vidite, ima mnogo ~ega je i nekad bilo, a jo{ many specific pieces of information from different places. There are just a few ruins remind- svima nama poznatom mjestu. Kao mali a i veliki nikada tamo nisam ljetovao. Prvi put sam vi{e onog ~ega nikada nije bilo. Kako dobrog, tako i lo{eg. ing of the war, there is an ever-growing number of expensive cars on the streets. The elite sada otkrio gdje je gradska pla`a. U Makarsku sam dolazio iz obli`njih ljetovališta (Velika Preuzeto iz Bosanske Po{te od 25.07.2003 g restaurants and the exclusive shops, the kind that had not existed before the war, resemble i Mala Duba, Brela, Tu~epi, Podgora) obi~no na kratko, kada bi me dobro izmezetili komarci, those in European capitals. Ilid`a, once a favourite outings place for Sarajevo inhabitants has da se u njihovoj dobro obskbljenoj ljekarni snabdijem potrebnim mazama i ljekovima. How to Recognise Sarajevo been transformed to a settlement of tycoons full of residences with swimming pools built to Usput bi svratio do pijace, a bogami malo i prošetao izmedju obale i kafana i obi~no bi sreo the taste of their nouveau riche owners, most of them from Sand`ak, whose unscrupulous dosta prijatelja sa kojima bi onda malo i posjeo. I onda kao danas najviše se vremena i By: Gojko Beri} vitality Sarajevo natives watch with helpless scorn. Similar buildings disturb other parts of `ivaca izgubilo vo`njom kroz centar i nigdje mjesta za parkiranje.. Osim što se Makarska the city as well. If it were not for a recent encounter with an Italian I would not be proširila i u lijevo i u desno i u Biokovo, nije se mnogo drugih stvari promijenilo. ^ak su aware how lucky I am to live in Sarajevo. Guisepe Cado travels But the other Sarajevo, Sarajevo of the majority also exists. It is Sarajevo of the unemployed i komarci ostali isti: dosadni i neugodni. Jest da ih je puno manje, ali sam i dalje ostao the south-eastern countries of Europe and sells construction equip- and the poor. Sarajevo queuing daily in front of the soup kitchens of the Red Cross. Sarajevo osjetljiv na njihove ubode. Ali je zato tu i dalje ista apoteka sa istim mazama i pembritinima, ment of a large Italian firm. Some of them reach the price as high of the humiliated pensioners and of houses and yards in which the poor live. It would take ista pijaca. Isto sunce, ako ne pr`i i nemilosrdije (nikad više tamo usred ljeta), isto lijepo as million dollars. A friend of mine from Udine referred him to me. Guisepe brought for days and days to visit all the places in which these deprived people live to form an image of plavo more, ista gu`va, iste kafane…Radnje punije nego prije, neki novi “Lidlovi”, “Cash me a bottle of red wine from his cellar and a box of Italian spaghetti. Regretfully I could a city for which one should never say that he knows everything about it. and Carry”-ja koliko ho}eš, ima robe koje, ~ini mi se ni u Londonu nema. not provide him with the one information he was most interested in: what are the names I am not a frequent passenger on the tram, and even then I never go beyond Dolac malta, but Kako matorim sve manje podmosim sunce. Zato sam izbjegavao le`anja na pla`i po cio of the major sawmills in Bosnia, their locations and how to reach them. Guisepe cer- the other day I took a number three to get to “Oslobo|enje” in Ned`ari}i. I entered the tram at dan. Ujutru bih dovezao svoje na “naše” mjesto na pla`i, ostavio njima sve; i auto, i para, tainly thought that “such a journalist” for sure knows everything: about politicians, the Cathedral and had a chance to sit but at the next stop the tram was already full. It was a ja krenuo u moj na~in ljetovanja. Uvijek sam volio tumarati po malim bud`acima, uskim cafés and brothels but also about sawmills and bears. stuffy inside. Somebody calls out to the driver to turn off the heating, “it is not possible to uli~icama, sa skalinama, i uvijek bi nalazio nešto interesantno u tome. Da sam slikar imao He was a tall, ginger man of athletic build and not older than forty. Endeavouring not to stand this heat”, but the driver does not give a damn. Some commuters have plastic bottles bih šta naslikati. Ovako morao sam se zadovoljiti foto-kamerom. I sunce mi nikada pod tim disappoint him completely I took him to the Ba{~ar{ija empire to the }evap~i}i shop with water in their hands, occasionally wetting their hands and cooling their necks and faces. okolnostima ne smeta; meni se moji zgra`avaju kako mogu po takvoj vru}ini tumarati po considered to be the smartest in Sarajevo. For my new acquaintance I ordered a tray full “It is more than thirty centigrade”, said a woman. “It is as much as forty”, said the man sitting gradu, a ja opet ne mogu da se na~udim kako se oni mogu cijeli dan pr`iti na suncu na pla`i. of }evap~i}i, sausage and other grilled meat. Waiting for the meal, Guisepe told me that next to her. Uvijek sam volio taj ambijent malih primorskih gradi}a. Tumaraju}i, misli mi svukuda odlutaju. his wife was born in Belgrade. She was a Serb who living in Rijeka before the war moved I had not even noticed when three young men with shortly cut hair entered the tram. They later to Udine. They met in a school for dance and today they have an eight-year boy. looked as if they were just released from Zenica prison. One of them smoked. “Tram is a no Ipak, priznao ja to sebi ili ne, još jedan motiv zašto sam tumarao tako sam po gradu bio je Guisepe studied mechanical engineering in Slovenia. He talked to me with a mixture of smoking zone”; an elderly passenger who stood in their vicinity warned him. The smoker just ne bih li sreo nekog poznatog koga nisam vidio od davnina. Ali baš nikog. Nekoliko puta Italian, Slovenian and former Serbo-Croat. It was amusing to listen to him “My soul cast a menacing look in his direction and went on smoking. The old man sitting in front of me mi se dogodilo da se zabuljim u nekoga ko mi se u~ini poznat , a ovaj (ili ova) se zabulji u vibrates in Balkans. I adore Balkans”, he said. “Rome is boring, because only Italians held a small water container on his knees. He would drink from the container and then pour mene sa o~itim upitnim izrazom na licu “Što li se ovaj zablenuo u mene?” I tako sve tri live in Rome. Sarajevo is magnifico. I can see diverse people in the streets.” the water over his head and gently rub it onto his bald head. The water was spilling all over nedelje koliko sam bio tamo- baš niko poznat. Tu`no, ali tako je to. Vrijeme i svima nam The waiter brought one larger and one smaller tray. “Oh, mama mia! Said Guisepe the tram. poznati doga|aji, uradili su svoje. looking at his portion of specialities from the grill. His nostrils widened in touch with At that moment a women’s voice cried Dok sam izbivao, Veliku Britaniju sam do`ivljavao kao zemlju u kojoj kao da nikad nisam the aroma of }evap~i}i and the hot bread. “Super!”, he said after the first bite. “Super!” out: ”Help, somebody has stolen my bio. Doimala mi se kao strana zemlja o kojoj sam znao onoliko koliko se to ~uje u školi na he repeated many times. purse.” There was a commotion ~asu geografije. Vrijeme povratku se neumitno pribli`avalo. Obuhvatala me je pomalo jeza On our way back Guisepe said: “Segnior Beric, you lucky man!” “Why, if I may ask among the passengers, but that was pri pomisli da se vra}am u napornu svakodnevnicu, i onu školsku predstavu o Vel. Britaniji Segnior Guisepe?” “Because you can eat }evap~i}i every day” he replied staring at the the end of it. I looked towards the sve je više zamjenjivao dojam povratka u dom u kojem kao da sam se rodio i cio `ivot tu Ba{~ar{ija food shops. place where the three young men proveo. were standing. They were not there. Oh, the silly foreigners, I thought. They understand nothing. They always like it here, There are things in Sarajevo that ex- I evo nas opet u Trstu na povratku. Sada više nisam whether they come for three days only or for four years. Many times it occurred to me siguran idem li ku}i ili od nje. Kroz veliko staklo isted before, but even more things that it would have been much better if I had left this city and the sunken country which that never existed. Both - the good aerodromske zgrade pogled nam se svima zadr`avao na was once called Yugoslavia. Now a Guiseppe whom I met for the first time in my life putnike koji su izlazili iz Rajan eir-ovog aviona u koji and the bad ones. tells me that I am lucky because I have stayed. Damn you Guiseppe! You have no idea mi treba da se ukrcamo za London. I gle ~uda; u toj what sort of country is this one in which I live. Still, Guiseppe is right to a certain gomili prepoznamo Bracu Danona glavom i njegovom Translation Branka Danon extent: all is relative in life, and even a mosquito is music to the prudent. He is espe- bradom. A u Makarskoj baš nikog poznatog da sretnem. Borrowed from Bosanska Posta, cially right when talking about Sarajevo }evap~i}i. Eto. 25.07.2003 Everything changes, but the one eternal thing on Ba{~ar{ija is its irresistible hedonism. Dragan Ungar 10 11 12 My Holidays at Makarska This is as if I had to write homework at school. This time it is not for the teacher. In this Zabilje{ke iz Sarajeva completely different time and space it is for different kids and judges, if I may say so. The vidim) postoji opiranje prijatelja i poznanika tim podjelama. To opiranje medju obi~nim topic is well known: Where have I been for my holidays and what was I doing there. My svijetom se uzima kao neki lajtmotiv, op{te mjesto, ali ga niko ne artikuli{e. Najvidljivije Kona~no sam i ja posjetio Sarajevo, medju posljednjima iz na{e ovda{nje grupe.Tako i treba: present difficulties are the same as those that I experienced during the long gone days, when je to opiranje u kulturi. Filmu naprimjer. Ni u najbolja vremena BH - kinematografija i stigao sam u London medju posljednjima… in September I had to write about this subject. Still sun tanned and somewhere by the nije bila produktivnija, talentovanija; nikad u isto vrijeme nisu radili tako talentovani Prva slika: sjedimo tako Darija i ja sa D`evadom Ta{i}em i njegovom suprugom Katarinom u seaside in my thoughts I could remember none of the events and unmemorable impressions. reditelji, kao {to su Kenovi}, Tanovi} i @alica; takvi profili djelatnika javne rije~i kao Still I had to take it to the school the next day. My present homework has to be handed over jednom simpati~nom kafeu u zgradi Ekonomskoga fakulteta sa ulazom iz biv{e ulice Vase {to je jedan Gojko Beri} suvereno bi se kretali i u sredinama koje se smatraju kulturno tomorrow to the editor. Miskina, sada Ferhadije. Kad smo ve} posjedali za sto, di`e se Darija da napravi fotografski superiornije. Njihovo opiranje podjeli i destrukciji jednoga civilizacijskoga tipa dru{tva We settled comfortably in RAYAN AIRBUS. Addressing us in English that I could not snimak nas troje preoastalih, a konobarica koja nas je poslu`ivala, pomalo umornom a je podloga njihove moralne ~vrstine i profesionalnoga digniteta. I to se tek ovdje vidi understand completely, the hostess introduced us to the captain whose name was Dragan (I iskusnom kretnjom sasavim poslovno odlo`i tacnu na susjedni prazan sto, zatra`i od Darije u pravome svjetlu. have forgotten his surname) and wished us a pleasant flight on behalf of the whole crew. fotoaparat rije~ima:” Dozvoilite da vas ja okinem all together”.Njen postupak je profesionalno Coming to Trieste we rented a car immediately. By the way, this could be a useful informa- Ali kod obi~noga svijeta polako se talo`i n a v i k n u t o s t na aparteizaciju. Jedan moj ljubazan, a izgovor dijela fraze na engleskom sasvim korektan. E, ta mi se re~eni~na tion: the luxury of flight tickets for three persons and a hired car (to Croatia – but not to prijatelj vodi me prema Kobiljoj Glavi. Na izlazu iz grada, odmah u Bla`uju, u kombinacija odmah u~inila nekim okvirom unutar koga bi se moglo ne{to re}i o dana{njem Bosnia) for twenty days costs less than seven hundred pounds. The drive along the motor- sarajevskomj polju, pru`a se slika gr~evitoga graditeljstva: na sve strane grade se ku}e; Sarajevu, ili jo{ bolje, o meni u Sarajevu: {ta je u tome ono “okinem”, a {ta je “all together”? way was good but very long. It took me some time to get used to driving on the right side of u biv{im srpskim selima stoji poneka pusta ku}a, poneka i sru{ena, ali pored njih, Ono {to se ve} na prvi pogled vidi, ugostiteljstvo je druga~ije i radikalno bolje u odnosu na the road – in this case the motorway. We were driving through places in Dalmatia, familiar takoreku} na njima grade se nove ku}e, bez reda, bez plana, nabacane kao da ih je tu but empty. No guests could be seen. Old women dressed in black and old men with “zimmer prijeratno stanje. Restorani, hoteli, kafane, raznovrsne i atraktivne, na svakom koraku. Valjda neki vjetar nanio. “Zvorni~ani i Srebreni~ani”, ka`e moj prijatelj, “divlja gradnja” frei” placards languished in front of an empty house. Sad views. We drove on. I was getting zato {to je bilo dugo i toplo ljeto, svuda su postavljeni suncobrani i stolovi - u ba{tama, na dodaje sa o~ajnom pomireno{}u. On je poslovan ~ovjek, on je posljednji koji je za tired a bit. We stopped to have coffee. Only two local people were sitting at a table in a café ulici; na trotoarima, trgovima; ~itava [trosmajerova ulica, od katedrale do biv{e ulice JNA, dijeljenje, ali za vikend-ku}u svog prijatelja ka`e: “Ispala mu je zgodna prilika, vrlo by the sea. We drove on. Slaven took over the wheel. I would have gladly taken a nap but prekrivena je suncobranima i udobnim stolicama najrazli~itijih boja, kao da neke tropske povoljna cijena, kupio je od udovice doktora ….. koja se odselila u Beograd…“ Kao da was afraid. It was the first time for him to drive on the right side of the road. He grasped the ptice `ele da privuku pa`nju mu`jaka. Svaka od tih kafana je razli~ita u na~inu kako da skill quickly. Even before we reached Zadar the twilight started creeping in. We were not in je toj udovici pokojnoga profesora u~inio uslugu; a zapravo i jeste, i u tome je izgleda predo~i doma}i ambijent i specijalitete, ali i u napadnom nagla{avanju onoga {to bi se a hurry, though. So, bit by bit we reached Makarska at one o’clock in the morning. stvar. nazvalo evropskim standardima. Od desetak restorana i kafana u kojima sam bio, prljavi We travelled “only” twelve hours. U avgustovskom broju nedjeljnika “Dani” dr. Neven Andjeli}, (nekad novinar Radio - klozeti - na{a vje~ita rak-rana - su pri~a od ju~e. Neke od tih kafana li~e na engleske pabove I spent my complete holidays of the year 2003 AD with Vera and Slaven in that place so well Sarajeva, sada `ivi u Londonu) je objavio ~lanak u kome analizira vandalsko ru{enje po tome kako su iski}ene, ali se zapa`a neka razlika. Taj ki~ je u engleskim pabovima known to all of us. Never as a child or an adult have I been there for my holidays. It was the nadgrobnih spomenika na katoli~kim, pravoslavnim i jevrejskim grobljima i ispituje first time that I discovered where the beach was. Years ago O would come to Makarska from napadniji; jednom sam u Warren Streetu, ulici diplomata i ambasada, nai{ao na pab u kome su reakciju svojih prijatelja na tvdrnju: “Sarajevo je muslimanski grad”. Debate o tome ne the surrounding holiday resorts (Velika and Mala Duba, Brela, Tu~epi, Podgora) for short na plitkoj polici stajale knjige, a one od njih koje su bile {ire nego polica - jednostavno su sti{avaju se, i ja sam naletio na njih. Fotokopiju toga ~lanka dobio sam u kafani od visits only, in order to supply myself with the necessary ointments and medicines after prepilane da bi se dobila odgovaraju}a mjera! To je sigurno kuriozitet, ali ono {to nije profesora Zorana Paji}a. Neven ka`e da se njegovi prijatelji liberalnih pogleda sla`u sa being bitten by the mosquitoes. I would use such opportunities to go to the market place kuriozitet i {to ne}ete sresti u Londonu , je fakat da najve}i broj kafana u Sarajevu su male tim, dok su oni sa “u`arenijim nacionalni osje}anjem” uzdr`aniji oko toga. On analizira and stroll from the seafront to the cafés where more often than not I would find quite a galerije slika, ali ne fotografija i reprodukcija kao po londonskim pabovima, nego originalnih number of friends. One of the things that has not changed from that period is the time and procenat stanovni{tva jedne vjere, imena koja se daju novorodjen~adi, osmrtnice, sastave slika sarajevskih slikara. Evropa je “umar{irala” i u trgovinu; na savkom koraku raznovrsne temper one loses driving through the town in an effort to find a parking place. Makarska has sportskih ekipa itd. Meni se pak ~ini da tvrdnju da je Sarajevo postalo muslimanski radnje, butici, saloni, velike robne ku}e; na kioscima evropska {tampa; na televiziji gledam extended to the right, to the left and to Biokovo Mountain, but not much else has changed. grad optimisti uzimaju kao ne{to ozbiljno ali ne beznade`no, a oni drugi kao ne{to u `ivo utakmicu Newcastle - Wolverhampton sa dna tablice engleskoga prvenstva, ali i Real Even the Mosquitoes are the same: irritating and unpleasant. It is true that their number has beznade`no zavr{eno ali ne vi{e osobito ozbiljno. Ono {to meni prosto bode o~i jeste Madrid – Porto iz evropskih kupova; doma}eg televizijskoga programa slo`enije strukture decreased but I am still sensitive to their stings. The same pharmacy is still there with the sistemati~no razaranje ili rastakanje pretspostavki integriteta te zemlje, koja sem same ointments and medicines. The same market is there. The same sun – its heat even more izgleda - nema. Saobra}aj na ulicama ~ini se da je neprekidno na ivici kolapsa, gu`va geografskog naziva (pa i to neki relativiziraju stavljanjem u mno`inu, pa Bosna i merciless, it seems (never again shall I go there in the middle of the summer). The same blue prevazilazi onu u najstro`em centru Londona. Hercegovina zvu~i kao dvije odvojene pokrajine) nema bli`eg odredjenja - nije sea, the same crowd and same cafés. The shops are better stocked than before. You can find I sve je to iz onoga domena {to je na{a konobarica smatrala da treba izraziti frazom na republika, nije protektorat, ka`u “dr`ava”. Na putu sa aerodroma, dva takva primjera se as many “Lidle” and “Cash and Carry” outlets as you would want and it appears that you engleskonm, a gdje je ono “okinem”? Gdje je ono {to Sarajevo unosi u tu svoju sopstvenu ne mogu previdjeti. Ru{evina zgrade “Oslobodjenja” je ra{~i{}ena, bolje re~eno can buy things that you cannot buy in London. The older I get the less I agree with the sun. “evropeizaciju?” Consequently I avoided staying on the beach all day long. My daily routine was to take my “po~i{}ena”. Ona vi{e nije vlasni{tovo “Oslobodjenja”, uposlenici toga lista ulaze u Kad se tako postavi pitanje, mnoge mi stvari izgledaju irealne, li~e ponekad na zalutalo family in the morning to “our” place on the beach with the car and some money and than go dio zgrade na sporedni ulaz… U svijetu najvi{e vrednovana nezavisna sarajevska novina svjetlo neke davno zgasle zvijezde. Pa ve} i ta moneta - marka, pa jo{ konvertibilna i, u op{toj on to do the things I always enjoyed. I would wander round the small squares, narrow streets je podstanar u nekada{njoj svojoj sopstvenoj ku}i. Napadno se isti~u dva polukru`na sirotinji, stabilna - ide u taj irealitet. Te marke, (~uvene Deutche Mark, ili Reichs Marke, and stairs. There was always something interesting there. If I were a painter this would zdanja sa fasadom od zelenoga stakla, kao dva silosa: palata “Dnevnog avaza”. Malo nekad ponosa i izraza mo}i njema~ke dr`ave i eknomije) odrekli su se njeni tvorci -Nijemci, provide me with a lot of material. But in my case camera had to do. The ambience of the dalje Dom radio - televizije stoji nekako mra~an i napu{ten: ka`u donosi se zakon da se small coastal towns always attracted me. My thoughts wander along with my feet. Doing ali nekako u isto vrijeme naziv te monete uveden je i odr`ava se, eto, u Bosni; izgleda jedino zdanje parceli{e i rasproda. the things I liked I did not mind the sun even. My family could never understand how I tu. A Bosna pamti novce razli~itih carstava, ali eto, marke nikad nije imala. Nadjem u knji`ari Nekad - sedamdesetih godina pro{loga vijeka - oba zdanja gradjena su istovremeno, could roam the town on that heat. On the other hand I could not understand their baking on knjigu pri~a Darija D`amonje, zaljubljenika u Sarajevo, ali i te njegove kafanske slike, sa kao zna~ajne pretpostavke integriteta i ravnopravnosti republike Bosne i Hercegovine. the beach. imenima kafana i nadimcima junaka koji o{tro sijen~e njihove li~nosti, a potpuno su izvan Sad stranci , koji su ina~e tu, navodno, da modernizuju i reformi{u “dr`avu”, rade u Whether I admit it to myself or not there was another motif for my strolling around. I was konteksta njihove nacionalnoe ili religiozne odredjenosti - slike su jednoga svijeta koga hoping to meet somebody I knew. Several times I even started gazing at people who seemed Sarajevu ta~no ono {to im i ne pada na um da urade kod ku}e. Jer, niko ne poku{ava da vi{e nema. [to ima bogatoga svijeta i sirotinje to je socijalna normala novog reda stvari, familiar to me. In such cases the gaze would be reciprocated with puzzled expression, which isparceli{e i rasproda ORTF, RAI ili BBC. Ko }e to kupiti zdanje radio-televizije? druga~ije ne mo`e ni biti; {to ima mnogo nezaposlenih to je o~ekivano; ali ono {to je tu could be read as: “Why on earth does this man stare at me?” During the three weeks of my Mo`da taj Radon~i} koji gazduje “Avazom”, ili neko sli~an njemu, a onda je sva pri~a takodje irealno jeste to {to to nikoga ne uzbudjuje, jeste i teza da Sarajevu i ne treba nikakva stay in Makarska I have met nobody I knew before. It is sad but true. This was to be expected o intelektualnoj eliti Sarajeva i njenom liberalnom antinacionalisti~kom ustroju, samo industrijska produkcija, da ono mo`e `ivjeti od “tercijalnih djelatnosti”. Ne znam kako after all these years and the well-known events. lokalna atrakcija. Pa ni sa drugom akcijom koja se pod pritiskom “medjunarodne While away from Great Britain, it was just a foreign country for me the knowledge about mo`e; dok je tu 30.000 ljudi zaposlenih kod stranaca, toliko ih ka`u ima , oni mo`da mogu zajednice” energi~no provodi - povrat imovine - ne posti`e se bog zna {ta. Medju which was limited to that gained during geography classes. The time to return was inexo- zamijeniti Energoinvest, TASS, UPI, ~ije hale sablasno zvrje prazne, i pumpati potro{nju i na povratnicima je najve}i broj onih koji su politi~ki i poslovno neproduktivni; pad rably approaching. My awareness that I am returning to the tiring routine filled me with njoj zasnovane “tercijalne djelatnosti”; ne znam koliko to mo`e trajati, a nisam ~uo nikoga cijena stanova na tr`i{tu je idealna prilika ratnim profiterima da olako dodju do slight apprehension. The “school years” perception of Great Britain was replaced by the da o tome ne{to ka`e. Ali mo`e li to biti udio Sarajeva u sopstvenoj “evropeizaciji”?. Izgleda nekretnina. sensation that I am going home. It seemed to me that I was born and had lived there my mi mnogo uvjerljivija cijena koja se za ovakvu “evropeizaciju” pla}a: kom{inica koja radi whole life. ….. Letimo avionom slovena~ke kompanije “Adria Airwaysa”( poku{aj ustanovljenja u jednom centru za socijalni rad ka`e da samo kod njih svakodnevnu besplatnu hranu u We were in Trieste again on our way back. I was not sure whether I was going home or away doma}e avio-kompanije je upravo propao.) I tu jedna zanimljivost: kako su Slovenci kuhinjama dobrotvornih ogranizacija tra`i i prima 4.ooo osoba; penzioneri, njih hiljade i from it. rije{ili jezi~ko pitanje Bosne. Putnicima se kapetan obra}a na engleskom, slovena~kom desetine hiljada sa 120 maraka penzije ~ija isplata kasni, jedini izlaze na ulice i demonstriraju, Through the large window of the airport building we watched the passengers who were i na jeziku za koji misli da je jezik putnika koje vozi; stjuardese, sa simpati~nom jer izgleda nema ko drugi. leaving The Rayan Air plane that was waiting for our embarkation on our way back to primjesom slovena~kog umek{avanja govore - da ka`emo- {tokavskim govorom - za London. And what a surprise: in the crowd we recognised a beard and under the beard we Ono {to je zasigurno originalno na{e i {to mi tamo nudimo dolaze}em svijetu globalizacije koji misle da svi ljudi u Sarajevu znaju. Niko nema primjedaba, a prijatno je….. recognised Braco Danon. To think that in Makarska I could not see anybody I knew. je na{a - separisanost i nastavljanje, rekao bih “bijelog etni~koga ~i{}enja”, bez primjene sile U.Milan Well! That’s it! ali gotovo neumitnog.. .Ta separisanost ima bezbroj lica. Najprije, (ono koje ja `elim da Dragan Ungar Translation: Branka Danon 13 14 15 Notes from Sarajevo They are the only ones who get to demonstrate on the streets because it appears that nobody else does it. Finally, I also have visited Sarajevo, among the last in our group. This is how it should The only original thing that we offer there to the advancing world of globalisation is our be because I was among the last to come to London. separatism and continuation of something that I would call “white ethnic cleansing”, with- out force but almost inexorable. This separatism is multifacial. First of all (the face I want to Darija and myself were sitting with D`evad Ta{i} and his wife Katarina in a pleasant café see) there is the resistance of friends and acquaintances to these divisions. This resistance within the building of the Faculty for Economic Studies, the entrance to which is from among the ordinary people is taken as a slogan, but nobody articulates it. This resistance is the former Vase Miskina street. Now it is Ferhadija. Wishing to take the picture of the best visible in culture. Film is a good example. The cinematography of Bosnia and three of us, Darija got up, but the waitress laid down her tray on a near-by table with a Herzegovina is more productive and with better talents then ever; never before have the best somewhat tired but experienced movement asking Darija in an expedient way to hand talents in directing - Kenovi}, Tanovi}, @alica - been active at the same time. People in the her the camera, saying: “Let me, please, shoot you all together.” Professionally her act media like Gojko Beri} would be accepted as highly accomplished professionals even in was helpful and the pronunciation of the English part of the sentence (all together) was environments which are considered culturally superior. Their resistance to division and correct. The make-up of this sentence attracted my attention immediately and it seemed destruction of a civilised society is the basis of their moral strength and professional dignity. that it could be an adequate framework for a few thoughts about Sarajevo at present, or Only here it is perceived in the right light. even better about me in that Sarajevo: what is “shoot” in that sentence and what is “all together”? On the other hand ordinary people are slowly becoming accustomed to “apartheidisation”. A friend of mine took me to Glava. At the exit from the city, in the Sarajevo Valley One notices immediately that catering is different and compared to the situation before one can see the ongoing feverish construction: houses are being built all around. In the the war much better. There are diverse and attractive restaurants, hotels and cafés all former Serb villages there are some isolated deserted houses, some of which were demol- over the place. The long hot summer had invited garden and tables to gardens, streets on ished, but beside them or almost on top of them new houses are being built with no order or pavements. Along the [trosmajerova street, from the Cathedral to the former JNA street, plan whatsoever as if tossed by the wind. “People from Zvornik and Srebrenica” my friend these parasols are mingled with the comfortable chairs of many colours as if they were said, “Unauthorised building,” he added accepting the situation with despair. He is a busi- tropical birds wishing to attract their females. Each of these differs from the others in nessman and the last person in favour of divisions, but for the country house of his friend he their effort to attract the public by their welcoming ambience and specialities, aggres- said “It was a good bargain for him, he bought it from the widow of doctor so and so. When sively emphasising though, the “European Standards”. If judged by the ten or so restau- she moved to Belgrade…”. As if he made a favour to the widow of the late professor; but rants and cafés that I have visited, untidy toilets – our permanent problem – are a story actually he did - and that is the whole point. from yesterday. Some of these remind of English pubs by their decoration but one may notice a difference. This kitsch in English pubs is more aggressive. Once in a pub in Dr. Neven An|eli} (former correspondent in Radio Sarajevo, now living in London) pub- Warren Street - the location of many embassies and diplomats – I noticed a narrow lished an article in the August issue of the weekly magazine “Dani”. By this article he bookshelf. The books that were wider than the shelf itself - were sawed off to fit on. It is analyses the vandalism perpetrated on the monuments on the Catholic, Greek Orthodox and a curiosity I am sure, but a curiosity not to be found in London is the fact that the Jewish cemeteries and examines the reaction of his friends to the statement: “Sarajevo is a majority of the cafés in Sarajevo are small galleries, not of photographs and prints as is Moslem city”. The debates on this issue are not abating. Even I stumbled on them. Professor the case in London pubs, but of originals by Sarajevo painters. Europe “marched” into Zoran Paji} gave me a photocopy of that article in a café. Neven said that his liberal friends the shops as well. There are all kinds of them all over the city. Newsagents sell papers agree with what he said, while those with “more heated national feelings” are more reserved. from Europe. I saw two live matches on TV: Newcastle – Wolverhampton, teams from He analysed the percentage of the population of a religion, the names given to the newly the bottom of the English league, but also Real Madrid – Porto (from the European born babies, obituaries, who are the members of sports teams etc. It seems to me that the Cups). It seems that no structured program exists on the local television. The traffic on optimists think that the statement that Sarajevo has become a Moslem city is something the streets appears to be on the verge of collapse permanently. The jams exceed those in serious but not hopeless, while the other ones think of it as something hopelessly terminal the very centre of London. but not especially serious any more. I found especially distressing the systematic destruction of the prerequisites for the integrity of that country which except for its geographic name This was probably what our waitress implied by the English phrase within the sentence does not have a more specific definition – it is not a republic, nor is it a protectorate, they say (all together), but what about “let me shoot you”? Where is the part that Sarajevo “a state”. It is impossible to overlook two such examples on the way from the airport. The contributes to its own “Euro-transformation”? ruins of the “Oslobo|enje” building were cleared or better to say “mopped away”. It is not When the question is put in this way many things seem unreal to me. Sometimes they owned by “Oslobo|enje” any more. Those employed by that paper use the rear entrance to look like a light from a star extinguished long ago. This sensation of unreality is present get to a part of the building. The highest rated independent Sarajevo paper is a subtenant in even when you think of the local currency – the Mark. In the prevailing poverty it is a house owned by it formerly. Attracting attention there are two showy crescents with green stable and convertible on top. This Mark (the famous Deutsche Marks, or the Reichs glass façades, as if they were two farm silos: this is the palace of the “Dnevni avaz” paper. Marks, once the pride and expression of the German state and economic power) was Further on is the Radio and Television building which looks rather gloomy and deserted. A renounced by its creators – the Germans. About that same time the name of that cur- law is under consideration to parcel it out and sell - so they say. Once – during the seventies rency was introduced and since has been maintained in Bosnia: it seems to be the only of the last century – both of these buildings were built at the same time as significant place to keep it. Bosnia still remembers the currencies of various empires, but as it prerequisites of integrity and equality of the Republic of . These happened it never had the Mark before. days the foreigners who are allegedly there to modernise and reform the “state” do in Sarajevo exactly the things that they would never do back at their homes. Nobody ever thought of In a bookshop I found a book by Darijo D`amonja, an author who is in love with parcelling out ORTF, RAI or the BBC. Who would wish to buy the Radio and Television Sarajevo. It is a book of anecdotes from cafés with their names and the nicknames of its building? Could that be Radon~i} who owns “Avaz”, or somebody similar to him. If so, the heroes. These nicknames mirror their characters but are completely out of context of whole story about Sarajevo intellectual elite and its liberal anti national structure is only a their national or religious definition. These are images of a world that is no more. local attraction. The other action implemented energetically under the pressure of the “in- Existence of the rich and the poor is normal in the new order of things in the society, it ternational community”- the return of property to their owners - also does not achieve much. can not be otherwise. The high number of the unemployed was to be expected. The Majority of those coming back to the country is not productive in political or business terms, unreal thing is that nobody cares and that a contention is present according to which the drop in the price of residential property on the market is an ideal opportunity for war there is no need for industrial production in Sarajevo and that it could live on services. profiteers to easily get hold of real estate. I do not know how this is possible. The 30,000 people employed by the foreigners, as I was told, might substitute ENERGOINVEST, TASS, and UPI whose production facili- We fly with “Adria Airways”, a company from Slovenia (The attempt to constitute a local air ties are ghostly empty. These 30,000 might boost the consumption and the services company has just failed). There is an interesting point there as well. How the Slovenians resulting from it. Still, I do not know for how long would it last and I have heard nobody have solved the language issue of Bosnia? The captain talks to the passengers in English, in talking about it. Can this be Sarajevo participation in its own “Euro-transformation”? Slovenian and a language that he believes is the language of passengers on board his plane. The price paid for it seems to be much more convincing: a neighbour working in a Nobody complains, and we enjoy the flight. social work centre told me that in the soup kitchens of their centre only some 4,000 U. Milan people a day claim and get free food in. These are pensioners, thousands and tens of thousands of them with pensions of 120 Marks monthly which are frequently delayed. Translation: Branka Danon 16 17 18 Sadr`aj/Contents Mojsije Moses Nakon naseljavanja na u{}u rijke Nil Jevreji su tu `ivjeli jo{ tri stotine godina i kako je After the Israelites settled in the delta of the river Nile they lived there for three hundred IZVJE[TAJ/REPORT generacija slijedila generaciju njihov broj je narastao na vi{e hiljada. Na vlast je do{la nova years and as generation followed generation their number swelled to thousands. A new Godi{nja skup{tina...... 2 dinastija faraona. [to su se Jevreji vi{e mno`ili to su se Egip}ani vi{e pla{ili njihovog broja dynasty of Pharaohs had come to power. The more Israelites increased, the more the pa su ih zbog toga i porobili. Kako bi se ograni~io njihov broj nare|eno je da se u Nilu udave Egyptians were afraid of their numbers and as a consequence had enslaved them. To General Annual Meeting...... 3 svi novoro|eni dje~aci. Jedna `ena koja je ve} imala sina Arona i k}erku Miriam - robinju curb their number orders were given to drown baby boys born to an Israelite in Nile. A TEMA LJETO/SUMMER THEME najmla|e Faraonove k}erke, rodila je dje~aka. Isplela je ko{aru u nju stavila dje~aka i pustila woman who already had a son, Aaron and a daughter, Miriam, the personal slave of the Tema ljeto - Uvod...... 4 da plovi niz Nil. Ko{ara je otplovila nizvodno do mjesta na kome je Faraonova k}erka sa Pharaoh’s youngest daughter had a new baby boy. She wove a basket and let it float svojim pratiljama na{la bebu. Princeza ga je nazvala Mojsije (sin). Odgojen je i {kolovan kao down the Nile with the baby lying inside it. The basket floated downstream where the Summer Theme - Introduction...... 4 da je egipatski princ. Kada je odrastao morao je da pobjegne iz Egipta po{to je bio upetljan Pharaoh’s daughter and her maids found the baby. The princess called him Moses (Son). u ubijstvo jednog Egip}ana. Dok je bio u izgnanstvu vodio je ovce i koze u podno`je planine Ana Smiljani}: da li sam premlada za . He was brought up and educated as an Egyptian prince. When he reached manhood he sje}anje na djetinjstvo...... 4,5 Sinaj. Dok je jednog dana sjedio u sjeni ~uo je pucketanje vatre malo vi{e u planini. Ali mada su plamenovi gorjeli oko grma, on je i dalje ostao zelen i neo{te}en u sred crvenog srca ognja: had to flee from Egypt after being involved in the murder of an Egyptian. While in exile Ana Smiljanic: Am I Too Young For . ~udo. Tada se za~u glas iz grma: “Ja sam Bog Avrama, Isaka i Jakova. ^uo sam povike mog he used to take his sheep and goats to the foothills of Sinai. Sitting in the shade one day Memories of my childhood...... 5 naroda i vidio njihovu bijedu. Izve{}u ih iz Egipta u zemlju u kojoj te~e med i mlijeko, u he heard the crackle of flames from further up the mountain. But although flames flared all around a bush, it stood green and unharmed in the fire’s red heart: a miracle. Then a voice Gojko Beri}: Kako prepoznati Sarajevo...... 6,7 zemlju koju sam im obe}ao. Idi sada kod faraona i reci mu da pusti moj narod.” Bog je rekao Mojsiju da povede sa sobom i svog brata Arona i da se on obrati i faraonu i narodu. Faraon je from the bush said, “I am the God of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. I have heard my people’s Gojko Beric: How to recognize Sarajevo...... 7, 8 odbio da dozvoli Jevrejima da odu iz Egipta. Naprotiv, jo{ vi{e ih je opteretio. Tada je Bog cries, and seen their misery. I shall lead them out of Egypt into a land flowing with milk Dragan Ungar: Moje ljetovanje...... 9 poslao deset udaraca da bi pokazao svoju mo} i Egip}anima i Jevrejima. Ti udarci su: krv, and honey, the land I promised them. Go to the Pharaoh now, and tell him to let my people Dragan Ubgar: My holidays...... 10 `abe, u{i, pri{tevi, boginje, grad i munje, skakavci, tama i smrt prvoro|enih sinova. Kada je go.” God also told Moses to take with him his brother Aaron and let him speak to the Bog ubio prvoro|ene sinove Egipta, po{tedio je Jevrejsku djecu. Tek tada je faraon rekao Pharaoh and the people. Pharaoh refused to let the Israelites go from Egypt. Instead he Milan Uzelac: Zabilje{ke iz Sarajeva...... 11, 12 Mojsiju da ode sa svim svojim narodom. Mojsije i Aron su vodili ogromni broj ljudi sve dok even increased their burden. Then, God sent the plagues to demonstrate his power to the Milan Uzelac: Notes From Sarajevo...... 13, 14 im duboka voda nije preprije~ila put. Kad je to ~uo, faraon je sa svojim ljudima po{ao za Egyptians and Israelites alike. They are blood, frogs, lice, ulcers and boils, hail and OMLADINSKA RUBRIKA/YOUTH COLUMN Jevrejima. Svom zastra{enom narodu Mojsije re~e: “Ni~eg se nemojte bojati. Bog vas je thunder, locusts, darkness and death of the first-born. When God killed all the first-born doveo dovde i on }e vas {tititi. Vjerujte Bogu pa }ete se uvjeriti.” Podigao je svoj {tap iznad Aleksi}: Poems...... 15 of Egypt he spared those of the Israelites. Only then did Pharaoh tell Moses to go with all vode i pomolio se Bogu. Pojavio se kanal suhe zemlje od jedne do druge obale mora, a sa obe his people. Moses and Aaron led the huge number of people until their way was blocked Franz Fafka on nationalism...... 8,9 strane su se dizali stubovi vode. “Po`urite” povikao je Mojsije. Kada su pod nogama osjetili by deep water. Hearing about this Pharaoh came with his army after Israelites. To his ZONA U^ENJA / LEARNING ZONE suhu zemlju i shvatili da su vodeni zidovi bezbjedni kao kamen pre{li su na drugu stranu i terrified people Moses said, “Fear nothing. God brought you this far, and he will protect pjevali pjesme radosti. Kada je faraon sa svojim ljudima po{ao za njima, sru{ili su se vodeni Biblija...... 17 you. Trust God and see.” He held his stick over the water and prayed to God. A channel zidovi i svi su se potopili. U po~etku su Jevreji bili puni radosti zbog bezbjednog prelaska of dry land appeared, from coast to coast across the sea, and on each side waves towered The Bible...... 18 preko mora i sudbine Egip}ana. Njihovo nezadovoljstvo se pojavilo kada su se umorili i like walls. “Hurry!” shouted Moses. When they felt dry ground underfoot, and realised ogladnili nakon ~etrdeset dana u pustinji. Tada su im prepelice i mana postali izvor hrane that the water walls were as safe as stone they marched to the other side singing hymns koji nikad nije presu{io tokom svih godina njihovog lutanja kroz divljinu. Vodu su dobili nakon jo{ jednog ~uda kada je Mojsije udario stijenu svojim {tapom i otvorio je. Tada su of joy. When Pharaoh and his men followed the Israelites the water-walls toppled and stigli do Sinaja na koji se Mojsije peo sve dok ga nije obavio oblak. Pao je na koljena i molio they were all drowned. At first, the Israelites were full of glee at their own safe sea se kada je za~uo Bo`ije zapovjesti. “Ja sam tvoj Gospod Bog. Izbavio sam te od ropstva. Ne crossing and the Egyptians’ fate. Their discontent emerged when they became hungry smije{ imati drugih bogova sem mene. Ne smije{ praviti likove `ivotinja, ljudi ili `ivih and tired after forty days in the desert. By this time quails and manna became their source stvorenja kojima }e{ se moliti. Ne smije{ se zaludu zaklinjati u Bo`ije ime. Sedmi dan treba of food that never ceased during all the years of their wanderings through the wilder- da bude svet kada }e{ se odmarati kao {to se Bog odmarao sedmog dana stvaranja. Po{tiva}e{ ness. Water was brought to them by yet another miracle when Moses hit a rock with his IZDAVA^ <> PUBLISHER svoje roditelje. Ne ubij. Ne vr{i preljubu. Ne kradi. Ne optu`uj la`no. Ne zavidi svojoj sabra}i stick splitting it open. Then they came to Sinai and Moses set off up the mountain and Jevrejska Zajednica “Prijatelji La Benevolencije” London i ne za`eli ni{ta {to im pripada. “ Slijede}eg dana Mojsije se ponovo popeo na planinu. Tada climbed till he was enveloped in a cloud. He fell on his knees and prayed when he heard mu je Bog rekao da je put do Obe}ane zemlje ~ist i da }e Bog odvesti Jevreje u zavjetnom God’s commandments. “I am the Lord your God. I brought you out of slavery. You will Jewish Society “The Friends of La Benevolencija” London {atoru koga treba da sagrade po njegovim uputstvima. Mojsije je vidio da se pored njega have no other gods before me. You will make no images to worship, of animals, people or ADRESA <> ADDRESS nalaze dva pljosnata kamena sa ispisanim Bo`ijim zapovjestima. Mojsiju se ~inilo da njegov other living things. You will not swear in God’s name, and break your word. You will keep Shalvata - Jewish Care, Att Mr Branko Danon boravak na planini nije trajao du`e od nekoliko sati. Me|utim, kod Jevreja je pro{lo vi{e the seventh day holy, and rest as God rested on the seventh day of creation. You will dana, pa i sedmica. Postali su veoma nestrpljivi i ljuti. Da bi ih smirio, Aron je poslu{ao honour your parents. You will not kill. You will not commit adultery. You will not steal. Parson Street - Corner of Church Road njihovu `elju i napravio zlatno tele od nakita koji su mu dali. Zlatnom teletu su sagradili You will not make lying accusations. You will not envy your fellow human beings or long London NW4 1QA oltar i pjevali i plesali u njegovu slavu. Kada je to ugledao Mojsije je kaznio Jevrejsko for anything that belongs to them.” The next day he climbed the mountain again. This idolopoklonstvo tako {to je ubio sve one koji nisu bili na strani Boga. Postepeno se gnjev Email: [email protected] time God told him that the way to the Promised Land lay clear ahead and that God will lead Boga sti{ao, pa su nakon nekoliko sedmica lutanja stigli do granica Obe}ane zemlje. Jo{ua, the Israelites in a tabernacle to be built according to his instructions. Then Moses found REDAKCIJA <> EDITORIAL BOARD Kaleb i jo{ deset mladih ljudi su po{li da obi|u i pogledaju zemlju. Natrag su donjeli grozdove that beside him were two flat stones covered with the writings of the Ten Command- Branka Danon, Branko Danon, Maja \ur|evac zrelog gro`|a i pri~u o bogatoj plodnoj zemlji, zemlji meda i mlijeka. Ali su pri~ali i o ments. To Moses his stay on the mountain had seemed no more than hours. But for utvr|enim selima, gradovima opkoljenim zidovima i vojskama tako da su se Jevreji upani~ili. Israelites whole days and weeks passed. They became very impatient and angry. To @elimir Ku~inovi}, Milan Uzelac, Vesna Domany-Hardy, Darija Stojni} U strahu su tra`ili od Mojsija da ih appease them Aaron obeyed their wish and made a golden calf of the jewellery they gave kroz pustinju povede natrag do TEHNI^KI UREDNIK DESIGN AND him. They built the Golden Calf an altar and sang and danced to honour him. Seeing all <> Egipta, rekav{i da je ropstvo bolje I KOMPJUTERSKA COMPUTER od smrti. Bog ih je kaznio tako {to that Moses punished the Israelites’ idolatry by ordering the killing of all those who were OBRADA PROCESSING ih je zadr`ao u pustinji jo{ narednih not on God’s side. Gradually God’s rage lessened, and in a few weeks’ wandering they Dejan Stojni} ~etrdeset godina. Svi oni koji su iz reached the borders of the Promised Land Joshua, Caleb and ten other young men were Egipta iza{li kao odrasli ljudi su sent out to look around the country. They brought back bunches of ripe grapes, and SaLon je besplatan i izlazi tromjese~no poumirali, sem Jo{ue i Kaleba; samo reported rich, fertile countryside, the land of milk and honey. But they also spoke of SaLon is free of charge and published quarterly je djeci bilo dozvoljeno da u|u u fortified villages, walled towns and armies and the Israelites panicked. In their terror they Obe}anu zemlju. Proveli su `ivot u begged Moses to lead them back across the desert to Egypt saying that slavery was Mi{ljenja u SaLonu nisu nu`no i stajali{ta urednika ili izdava~a. nastojanju da postignu cilj koji niko preferable to death. God punished them keeping them in the wilderness, lost, for forty The opinions expressed in SaLon are not necessarely those of the editors od njih nije do`ivio. ^ak je i Mojsije more years. One by one, all those who had left Egypt as adults fell ill and died, except for or the publisher. ka`njen zbog male neposlu{nosti. Joshua and Caleb; none but the children were allowed to set foot in the Promised Land. Ÿ SaLon Mojsije je vidio Obe}anu zemlju This was the Israelites’ punishment for distrusting God. They spent their lives strug- tako {to je pogledao na Dolinu gling to reach a goal none of them lived to see. Even Moses was punished for a small act Rijeke Jordan sa planine Pisga, of disobedience. Moses saw the Promised Land looking down into the Jordan valley sjeveroisto~no od Mrtvog mora. from the peak of Mount Pisgah northeast of the Salt Sea and died. Printed by Freedman Brothers Printers Tada je umro.