FEATURES LIFE C9 SOUTH CHINA MORNING POST WEDNESDAY, MARCH 14, 2007

Edited by Stephen McCarty [email protected] TRAVEL With galleries galore, top museums and buzzing nightlife, this Scottish city has a creative vibe, writes Christina Pfeiffer

Start your travels from the city’s historic centre, (far left), taking in the likes of (top left), with its boutiques and street artists, and Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (below left and below), with its eclectic collections. PHOTOS: CHRISTINA PFEIFFER

boutique dress shops, interior design shops and trendy cafes. ’s top boutique hotel, One Devonshire Gardens (www.onedevonshiregardens.com), was taken over by Hotel du Vin and reopened in October 2006 as Hotel du Vin and Bistro, with beautifully appointed luxurious rooms, an impressive Scotch whisky room and a new bistro that’s the talk of the town.

Glasgow Harbour 8 When the regeneration of (www.glasgowharbour.com) is complete, the area promises to become an attraction that pays tribute to the city’s past as one of Britain’s major shipbuilding centres. Residential areas, a 3km riverside walkway, cycle paths, landscaped areas and retail, leisure and museum precincts are all taking shape. In the 19th century the was one of Britain’s most prominent shipbuilding centres and the term Clydebuilt was an industry benchmark for superior quality. Today, the Glenlee (better known as the Tall Ship at Glasgow Harbour; www.thetallship.com) is a historical reminder of Glasgow’s shipbuilding past and one of only five Clydebuilt ships in the world that remain afloat. The tour costs £4.95 (adult) or £2.50 (child).

Hunterian Art Gallery 9 Although it displays art works from well-known masters such as Rembrandt and Rodin, the Hunterian Art Gallery Buchanan Street as well as for grazing and swimming. in the cafe among the tropical plants. starts its run in George Square and the (www.hunterian.gla.ac.uk) is best known 2 Admire the grand Victorian Today, Glasgow’s oldest city park covers Admission to the People’s Palace and pre-recorded commentary begins by for its large collection of paintings by PERFECT 10 architecture along Buchanan Street – 55 hectares of open space and is used for Winter Gardens is free. providing interesting historical snippets American-born James McNeill Whistler, and because it’s Glasgow’s main concerts, fireworks displays and other about its stately statues. Tickets cost who lived and worked in Britain and shopping street you may be tempted to major events. At the edge of the park is The £9 (adult) or £3 (child) and are valid France. Admission is free. Glasgow give your credit card a good workout. the city’s social history museum, the 4 The result of a 1971 architectural for 24 hours. The Argyll Arcade, Britain’s oldest People’s Palace. Housed in an elegant competition, the Burrell is set in the Kelvingrove covered shopping arcade (established 19th-century red sandstone building, woodlands of Pollok Estate, a property Charles Rennie Mackintosh trail 1 The jewel in Glasgow’s crown, in 1827), is headquarters for the city’s the museum documents the story of the presented to the city by Anne Maxwell 6 What Antoni Gaudi is to Barcelona, Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum top jewellers. Head for the designer people of the city since 1750 with three Macdonald (the 11th Baroness of Pollok). Charles Rennie Mackintosh is to reopened last summer after a three- boutiques in Princes Square, a converted floors of paintings and photographs. The museum holds a collection of Glasgow. The legacy of the architect, year, £27.9 million (HK$421 million) 19th-century warehouse worth walking Wander next door into the Victorian 9,000 artworks donated by Sir William designer and artist can be admired in refurbishment. Before its temporary into simply to admire its glass canopies, glasshouse of the Winter Gardens, where Burrell and his wife Constance. There’s many buildings. A £12 trail ticket closure, Kelvingrove was already one wrought-iron balconies and wall you can warm yourself with a hot drink something to satisfy every taste, provides entry to key Mackintosh of Britain’s most popular museums mosaics. You’ll find designer names including ancient artefacts from China, attractions (such as the Mackintosh (www.glasgowmuseums.com). Its such as Armani, Escada and Ralph Egypt, Greece and Rome, modern House, the Lighthouse, renovation means 8,000 items are now Lauren in the Merchant City area, once sculptures by Epstein and Rodin, of Art, House for an Art Lover, the Hill on display in 22 themed galleries. A key home to 18th-century tobacco barons works by European masters and House, the Mackintosh Church and exhibit is a second world war Spitfire and now Glasgow’s main haute-couture Islamic art treasures. Architectural Scotland Street School) and includes that was part of the 602 City of Glasgow neighbourhood. Pop into the historic items such as medieval arches have unlimited travel on public transport Squadron. The restored aircraft hangs Willow Tea Rooms (www.willowtea been cleverly integrated into the design (www.crmsociety.com). from the ceiling of the West Court. Other rooms.co.uk) for a spot of afternoon of the building. Admission is free. Glasgow Science Centre displays include a life-sized skeleton cast tea among the high-backed chairs and FRANCE SCOTLAND Trendy West End 10 Interactive exhibits, shows and of a ceratosaur, a collection of Egyptian clean lines of architect and designer Historic heart 7 Soak up the vibrant atmosphere workshops are housed within three treasures on loan from the British Charles Rennie Mackintosh. 5 The City Chambers (www.glasgow. among the restaurants, bars and street sleek, titanium-clad buildings at the Museum and a controversial Salvador gov.uk) on George Square have been musicians after dark. Catch a lunch- Glasgow Science Centre (www.glasgow Dali painting, Christ of St John of the Glasgow the headquarters of the city council time performance at the quarter’s most sciencecentre.org). The centre also Cross, which – after heated public debate 3 King James II granted Glasgow Green since 1888. Tours are free and run popular entertainment venue, Òran contains Scotland’s only Imax theatre – was returned to Kelvingrove from the to Bishop William Turnbull and the twice a day (10.30am; 2.30pm). Mór (www.oran-mor.co.uk). Set in a and the ScottishPower Planetarium, nearby St Mungo Museum of Religious people of the city in 1450. In those days Also located on the square is the converted church, its theatre programme where a Carl Zeiss Starmaster projector Life and Art. The value of Kelvingrove’s it was used as a common area in which Glasgow Tourist Information Centre – known as A Play, A Pie and A Pint – provides an opportunity to investigate collection is estimated to be about £600 to perform tasks such as washing, SCMP Graphic (www.seeglasgow.com). The hop-on, attracts the city’s best writers and actors. the mysteries of space beneath the million. Entry and guided tours are free. bleaching linen and drying fishing nets, hop-off bus (www.scotguide.com) Byres Road is a treasure trove of unique planetarium’s dome.

home for themselves among the place to buy a mask to give and residents is all part of the fun. by antique Chinese furniture, a DETOURS the crumbling shikumen, or you nightmares, boho clothing or Kommune is an easygoing place Japanese garden and handmade BIG DEAL tenements. The area, which is a toilet sign in Thai. for lunch or a snack. Utsuwa, crockery. Wander along the Mark Andrews about as pedestrianised as it can Yuraki stocks antique Japanese in a beautifully restored three- alleys and lose yourself in artistic Peter Walbrook be on the mainland, is dotted with clothes, from 60-year-old kimonos storey building, serves healthy reveries in and around lanes 210 Feel the art beat galleries, workshops and stores to fabric for custom-made items. Japanese set lunches in a to 248 off Taikang Lu, close to Charlotte Travel is selling a two- beneath the dripping washing JIP sells male and unisex jewellery. cultured atmosphere, enhanced the Si Nan Road intersection. night break to Penang, with Pudong may be upwardly mobile, of the families living above. Among the area’s most flights on Cathay Pacific, from but Shanghai is about more than Shikumen, buildings with engaging denizens are the HK$1,699 per person, twin share. just the next skyscraper. Across a combination of western and artisans. At M Yue Arts you can The hotel at this price is the the Huangpu River in the former Chinese architectural influences often see a painter at work (as well Equatorial, which is closer to the French Concession, artists, that made up more than half as canvases, the workshop sells airport than to George Town, but artisans and others with an eye of Shanghai’s housing in the embroidery and antique Chinese is a comfortable property with for the unusual have made a first half of last century, are fast jewellery). At Yi Jiang Nan, two appealing grounds and an 18-hole disappearing. Most of the two- But credit for the development young fashion designers create golf course, set in a pleasant or three-storey houses once goes to an Australian, who created outfits from contemporary fabrics, location. In Batu Ferringhi you owned by a single family were the Kommune four years ago. but with a Chinese touch. In the can choose from Shangri-La’s divided into smaller units after Renovating a courtyard of old workshop section of Utsuwa, Golden Sands or Rasa Sayang the revolution. houses, Kirk Jobsz created a a Japanese potter produces Resorts (www.shangri-la.com), Much of the perceived squalor European-style mini piazza, with tableware and gives lessons. which are priced at HK$2,239 and of the longtang (alleys) has been restaurant tables surrounded by Photography studios and HK$3,199 respectively. Breakfast bulldozed away. But unlike shops selling arty goods. modelling agencies have also been and insurance are included. in tourist-heavy Xintiandi, the Spurred by its success, more attracted to the neighbourhood’s These prices will be valid development of Taikang Lu, shops of artistic persuasions have old warehouses. The Xin Dong until the end of May, except for known to some as “art street”, made the lanes home. What they Tai She Ying agency moved to blackout dates from March 31 to has been organic and gradual. have in common is a taste for Taikang Lu because of the April 9 and on May 23 and 24. Many art-related businesses the unusual. Hari Rabu stocks atmospheric buildings – and For inquiries and reservations, were attracted by the area’s clothing, ceramics, handicrafts because so many of its clients tel: 2110 6070, or e-mail association with Chen Yifei, a late and ornaments from Thailand, want to be photographed there. The area around Shanghai’s Taikang Lu boasts a mini piazza, restaurants, [email protected] local artist and cinematographer. Indonesia and Vietnam. This is Mingling with the artists, artisans boutiques and stores selling all sorts of arty goods. PHOTOS: MARK ANDREWS [email protected]