6 *** Sunday 8 October 2017 The Sunday Telegraph The Sunday Telegraph Sunday 8 October 2017 *** 7 ART & CULTURE High culture and

a new groove TRAVEL TRUTH Do cruise ships cope with hurricanes? for harbour city Chris Leadbeater investigates hile the obvious and swells in excess of 39ft fallout from (12m) – but coped admirably. work and Hurricanes Irma This same hardiness is true W and Maria – the of smaller vessels. You can play Hamburg is Kunsthalle is all wood- and Georg Baselitz, while exhibitions twin forces of nature that find footage online ( goo.gl/ Trisha Andres is won over by the cutting-edge concert hall, ’s busiest panelled walls and at the Haus der Photographie range roared in the Atlantic last XYVSAz) of another Royal seaport and is checkered black-and-white from Richard Avedon, Martin Parr and month – is the damage Caribbean ship, Anthem of the fabulous art galleries and the cool regeneration of the pictured from floors, exhibiting old Viviane Sassen. If time is limited, I’d wrought to islands in the Seas – which is around the popular masters such as Lucas recommend the Kunstverein Caribbean, and to the south- two-thirds the size of its giant ou’re either an The overall effect is dazzling, ‘Beach Club’ Cranach the Younger as Hamburg, where famed German east of the United States, this sibling – slipping blithely river or an resembling sea shell imprints in the Strandpauli well as 20th-century photographer Wolfgang Tillmans has a latest period of tumultuous through the Atlantic in Alster lake kind right light. On one end of the hall, artists. Next door is a glass solo show until Nov 12 displaying his weather has also provoked September of last year, even as of person,” said 4,765 organ pipes gleam like silver contemporary gallery, art beyond the camera. At the large gulps of concern in Hurricane Hermine strikes its Lydia, a iceberg icicles. Such beauty comes at a showcasing work by Andy Warhol, Kunsthalle, an exhibition called Art cruise passengers. Hurricane 14th deck with a surge. geborene price: the original forecast for the David Hockney and Tracey Emin. At and Alphabet until the end of this season traditionally runs until Even a freak wave would be Hamburgerin, “Elphi” was €272 million the opposite end is the Deichtorhallen, month explores languages and writing the end of November, so there unlikely to unhinge a modern ‘Y or a local born (£243 million); the final bill came to a two historic former fruit, vegetable systems through various art forms, may be worse to come. cruise ship. Discussing the and raised in Hamburg, who I met controversial €789 million. In addition and flower market halls converted into from painting to installations. This will not be a pleasing Atlantic’s sour hello to on a bridge in . to being the home of the NDR exhibition spaces for contemporary art A requisite Beatles tour was next on thought if you have booked a Oasis of the Seas, Matthew The maritime city is defined by Orchestra, the and photography. The stark art hall the agenda. The Fab Four played voyage heading for the likes of Collette, a professor of naval the ebb and flow of water. The Elbe, venue also hosts a varied programme features cutting-edge artists such as around 300 concerts and spent more Barbados or St Lucia in the architecture and marine the city’s industrial shipping artery, A sweeping from musicians including Philip Gilbert & George, Antony Gormley than 12,000 hours on stage here and next few weeks. And yet the engineering at the University is an immense tidal river that Glass, Yo-Yo Ma and Brian Eno. John Lennon said: “I grew up in comforting reality is that of Michigan, told the journal courses into the North Sea. On my view of the London’s Barbican and the Royal Hamburg.” Musician Stefanie Hempel, encounters between cruise Live Science: “If [a ship] was visit, the second largest harbour in River Elbe Festival Hall simply do not compare, THE HAMBURG BEAT A MUSICIAN’S GUIDE TO CITY NIGHTLIFE armed with a ukulele, led our group ships and extreme storms Europe seemed endless, with rows and seeing a concert in this fine through the old red light district as she tend to be rare – and that even The reason cruise and rows of vessels from all corners and the venue is reason enough to visit Stefanie originally to go before a venue is the sang the songs the Beatles performed when one meets the other, the of the globe, locks, canals and titanic container the city. That night, I saw Wagner’s Hempel – played more night out on the Elbphilharmonie, in the clubs and strip joints of the former can deal with the latter ships don’t capsize cranes that from afar look like Das Rheingold conducted by Marek I am a singer- than in the city’s is located by the Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. “The without too much worry. in hurricanes is that characters straight out of port, Janowski with soloists Katarina songwriter and clubs. the Pizzabande River Elbe in the Beatles will be the Schuberts and Oasis of the Seas – an ocean- Transformers. Then, emerging from Karnéus as Fricka, Michael Volle as founder of the And it all – definitely the middle of the Schummans of the 20th-century,” going behemoth owned by they are not placed the banks of the river like a glacier, fringed by Wotan and Johannes Martin Kränzle as musical Beatles happened in the best pizza in harbour. The Hempel quoted Leonard Bernstein. Royal Caribbean – is a case in was the glass-panelled Alberich. Under Janowski’s guidance, tour (hempels- old red light town. concert hall Back at the Elbphilharmonie, I point. The largest passenger in harm’s way Elbphilharmonie, the city’s new cranes, the orchestral transitions were musictour.de). In district, St Pauli, It’s a bohemian appears like a stepped on to the spaceship-like ship on the planet when it was concert hall designed by the Swiss came into handled deftly and opera and my opinion, where you’ll find place run by a huge, escalator and waited patiently for launched in 2009 (and still the struck by [a freak wave], I architects Herzog & de Meuron. The symphony were in complete sync. Hamburg is the the old “sin mile”, real St Pauli illuminated ship two and a half minutes to be beamed third largest, able to hold up to would expect local damage at

building, which is now the city’s view After the performance, I wandered LARMANN RALPH IMAGES; GETTY ALAMY; most beautiful the infamous character and about to take off. up through a white tunnel studded 6,780 passengers), it was built the point of impact – maybe defining landmark, through the viewing city in Germany. Reeperbahn, musician. If you Tickets are with thousands of glimmering with an extra-wide hull which some broken portholes or dominates Hamburg’s plaza’s curved glass chugging along a raised rail track and of Hamburg’s port, it’s now a Unesco light Later, I wandered along the Neuer It has been my surrounded by a happens. The “dancing towers”, prefer fine sold out until the discs. As I emerged on to an gives it added stability in bent railings. But little else.” skyline and houses entrance. Built the city’s spires soaring above flat-top World Heritage Site lined with fashion fantastic Wall, an elegant street that runs along home for 20 bohemian, most iconic at the very dining, book a end of next observation platform, a compelling ferocious conditions. At 198ft However, the main reason three concert halls, between the building’s buildings. Here was the city in full showrooms, artists’ studios and tea The dazzling the lake, lined with Art Nouveau years. One reason village-like examples remain beginning of the table at the Nil on summer and the vision of the River Elbe and the (60.5m) across at maximum cruise ships do not capsize in The Westin Hotel and new prismatic facade view, the river winding along docks rooms. I popped into Wasserschloss Elbphilharmonie, townhouses, jewellers and boutiques: I came here was neighbourhood the old rock ’n’ Reeperbahn, Neuer excitement sweeping waterfront, fringed by width (and 154ft/47m at the hurricanes is that they are not 45 apartments. The and the old brick and buildings old and new. (wasserschloss.de) and surveyed above; and Alster affluent Europe in all its glory, with a to study classical full of creatives, roll clubs where you’ll find the Pferdemarkt. shows no sign of cranes, came into view. The sun made waterline), Oasis of the Seas is placed in harm’s way. Weather halls’ acoustics – the warehouse it sits on, Elbphilharmonie is the crown jewel and sniffed the 250 teas on offer lake, left self-assurance built on the city’s chic piano; the other cafés, shops the Beatles stunning Mojo Then make your ending. The its way down to the edge of the too big to fit into the Panama prediction systems track in work of Yasuhisa the platform is open to in Europe’s largest urban development and finally sampled an “Elbufer” pedigree (as the birthplace of Karl was to live restaurants and played, such as Club. At night, way to location is just harbour, casting a white glow over the Canal but its broadness means advance, and avoiding action Toyota, one of the the public seven days a project, HafenCity, which has tea and a traditional cinnamon bun. Lagerfeld and the home of Jil Sander). somewhere bars. The the Indra and the the ground-level resonanzraum, amazing and the dark grey river. I couldn’t really decide it can withstand the most taken. Royal Caribbean and world’s most week, even to those transformed 2.2 sq km of tumble- This, I thought, was a very pleasant Hamburg’s Kunstmeile or “art mile” intimately atmosphere is , but doors open up, the new home of sound is what kind of person I was, whether I unfriendly waves. Norwegian Cruise Line erred acclaimed without a concert ticket down docks along the city’s port way to spend a Saturday afternoon. comprises five major galleries, flanked connected with relaxed and dive into the leading you the Ensemble overwhelming. was an Alster or an Elbe. Maybe, like This was proved in on the side of caution and acousticians – are (entry is free but you into a buzzing shopping and Further afield, I ventured to the Alster by two very different museums on the Beatles. convivial, yet caves of the underground Resonanz, which The most the city, I was both. November 2009, on its cancelled two sailings as Irma exceptional. The can also make an residential area during the past decade lake, another one of Hamburg’s either side. A Kunstmeile pass costs I’ve been a remains the legendary into a modern holds monthly wonderful thing delivery voyage from the raged. Carnival, MSC Cruises, grand hall is decked advance reservation of (final completion is due between 2025 defining bodies of water. Unlike the €36 and is valid for 12 months, Beatlemaniac beating heart of Molotow club concert hall. “urban string“ for me is that the Book tickets to the Elbphilharmonie Finnish shipyard where it Celebrity Cruises and Disney throughout with €2 online if you’d like and 2030). But it’s not the new Elbe, it is placid and classically allowing you to visit each of the five since my early Hamburg’s and you might The area is also concerts, where stage is in the (00 49 40 357 666 66; was built to its new home in Cruise Line all re-routed ships grooved plaster and to skip the queues). I sat developments I was enamoured with, beautiful. I took in the views aboard a institutions once. At the northern end, teens and there is anti- discover a full of quaint chamber music middle of the elbphilharmonie.com). Fort Lauderdale, Florida. En out of its path. paper panels, each on one of the benches it was the historic that steamer cruising along the large lake, a short walk from the closest station, no place in the establishment fantastic indie restaurants and meets electronic audience, Tickets for the International Music route, it moved through what The simplest strategy for individually designed and admired the views: made an impression. A labyrinth of dotted with small sailing boats and Hauptbahnhof Nord, is the superb world where the identity. band. street food joints. art. creating an Festival from April 27 – May 25 2018 officers recorded as “almost surviving a hurricane is not to to create balanced boats moored on the lofty 19th-century warehouses and ringed by leafy banks, green parks and Kunsthalle, holding one of Europe’s Fab Four – or St Pauli is still Beneath the One of my The most almost campfire- are on sale from December; website up to hurricane force” winds, face it in the first place. resonance. side of the river, a train narrow canals that was once the centre white stucco villas. largest art collections. The main Five, as they were where the music so-called favourite places exciting new like feeling. as above