5 places with a GARDEN

26 RATANÀ In a small building, dwarfed by the Via Gaetano de skyscrapers of Porta Nuova, chef Cesare Castillia 28 Battisti prepares dishes that ‘express the Isola �� soul of ’, sourcing his raw material +39 02 8712 8855 from local producers. The risottos and ratana.it meats are excellent. His partner and sommelier Federica Fabi is in charge of the front of house. Games for children in the garden.

27 U BARBA A bocce club which has become a Genovese Via Pier Candido tavern. The food is very basic here, and Decembrio 33 includes trofie (short, twisted pasta) with South-East ➆ pesto, pansotti (stuffed pasta) with walnut +39 02 4548 7032 sauce, and cheese-stuffed focaccia. You ubarba.it can enjoy their cuisine, that reminds the Milanese of weekends by the sea, at a communal table. Or outdoors, near the bocce court. Also open for lunch on weekends.

28 UN POSTO A MILANO

36 37 5 cool 94 CAFFETTERIA A large, quiet, and luminous space. DECANTO GALLERIE Unlike other bars in the city centre, BARS IN MUSEUMS D’ITALIA DeCanto is spacious enough for you Piazza della Scala 6 to catch your breath. You can browse Duomo-San Babila ➁ your guidebook and plan your next +39 02 8901 4372 visit or take a break before enjoying the gallerieditalia.com Gallerie d’Italia collection. A perfect pit stop while shopping.

91 LÙBAR Today the former orangerie of Villa Reale 95 GIACOMO CAFFÈ One of the stars of the ‘Giacomo’ AT: VILLA REALE GAM is a splendid winter garden, with large Piazza del Duomo 12 constellation, which includes a restaurant Via Palestro 16 windows overlooking the greenery. The Duomo-San Babila ➁ in the nearby Arengario and an enclave in Porta Venezia ➀ tables also occupy part of the southern +39 02 8909 6698 Via Sottocorno with a bistro, pastry shop +39 02 8352 7769 portico, through which the horses once giacomocaffe.com and bar-tobacco shop. They all have the lubarstreetfood.com entered. The atmosphere is laidback, same furniture, atmosphere and vintage like in the park where there’s an area dinnerware. The cafe of Palazzo Reale also designed for children. has a pleasant courtyard and a mezzanine where you can browse old and recent 92 BAR LUCE When this place opened it became the exhibition catalogues. AT: FONDAZIONE PRADA hipsters’ new favourite hangout, from Largo Isarco 2 breakfast till evening. The best moment South-East ➆ to enjoy the bar, which was designed by +39 02 5666 2611 Wim Wenders, who won an Oscar for fondazioneprada.org The Grand Budapest Hotel, is on weekdays, without the chaos of the weekend.

93 ROTONDA BISTRO The location plays a major role at Via Enrico Besana 12 Rotonda della Besana. The baroque Porta Romana ➁ structure – which until the 1700s served +39 02 5501 1404 as the cemetery of Ca’ Granda city rotondabistro.it hospital – with its beautiful portico has since become a bistro. The church of San Michele was transformed into 91 LÙBAR a children’s museum a few years ago.

66 67 40 PLACES TO SHOP

5 places to smell the FLOWERS——————————————— 92

5 traditional PAPER SHOPS———————————————— 94

5 special BOOKSHOPS to visit——————————————— 96

5 places for BICYCLE ADDICTS————————————— 98

5 places for TEXTILES———————————————————— 101

5 places for CERAMICS——————————————————— 103

5 BEAUTY SHOPS————————————————————— 106

5 high-end DEPARTMENT STORES————————— 108

RINASCENTE 5 214 GARAGE ITALIA Opened by Lapo Elkann, the scion of the Viale Certosa 86 / Agnelli dynasty, Garage Italia customises CONCEPT STORES Piazzale Accursio 1 all means of transportation, from scooters North-West �� to off-road vehicles, and even helicopters! +39 02 3343 1857 It’s located in the former Agip Supercorte- +39 02 2222 0307 maggiore gas station, known as the (restaurant) ‘spaceship’, which was commissioned by garageitaliamilano.it ENI’s founder Enrico Mattei. The building, which has been restored, has a cocktail 211 ACQUA DISTILLATA A store that sells art and design, bar and a restaurant. MILANO where you can buy creations by niche Via Santa Croce 21 contemporary artists, both Italian and 215 ROSSANA ORLANDI Rossana Orlandi has established her 5vie-Ticinese ➁ international. Thanks to its special Via Matteo creative space in a former tie factory. The +39 02 3657 6952 relationship with artists and designers, Bandello 14-16 original setting, wall furniture and stairs acquadistillata Acqua Distillata also designs and sells Sant’Ambrogio ➃ surround an infinite number of drawers. milano.com creative furniture solutions. +39 02 4674 471 Recently the bistRo opened here. She rossanaorlandi.com joined forces with one of Milan’s most 212 MARRAS This concept store is located in a former popular restaurants, Il luogo di Aimo and Via Cola di Rienzo 8 workshop, which is tucked away in Nadia (aimoenadia.com), for this project. South-West ➈ a flowery courtyard. A dreamlike space, +39 02 8907 5002 which is also an art gallery, a meeting nonostantemarras.it venue with antique sofas and furniture and large chandeliers. In the centre, you can find clothes made from special fabrics, surrounded by flowers, books and artworks.

213 SIX GALLERY A new hidden space in a courtyard with Via Scaldasole 7 a landscape architecture studio and a Sant’Ambrogio ➃ design studio with eclectic furniture from +39 02 4548 9540 the early 20th century to the 1970s. A field +39 02 8907 5002 of wheat hangs down from the ceiling. (bistro) The bistro, the Sixième, has a few tables six-gallery.com and a large cocktail bar. 213 SIX GALLERY

122 123 5 beautiful 274 PARCO TROTTER A former racetrack. In the 1920s Parco Via Giuseppe Trotter became the Casa del Sole, a special GARDENS Giacosa school with a state-of-the-art garden with NoLo ➄ an educational function. Today it’s listed as Environmental Heritage and is always teeming with mothers and children who live in this multicultural neighbourhood.

275 ORTICOLA The opening is always a society event. 271 BOTANICAL GARDEN This tranquil, beautiful oasis is hidden FLOWER SHOW Guests show off their eccentric hats and OF BRERA behind the austere Palazzo di Brera, in AT: INDRO MONTANELLI colourful clothes, which are all very Via Brera 28 the centre of Milan. Created in 1774 at PUBLIC GARDEN flowery. It is a pleasure to stroll among Brera-Corso the behest of Maria Theresa of Austria, Corso Venezia the many plant varieties and rare and Garibaldi ➀ as a haven of pleasure and delight, Porta Nuova ➀ ancient flowers in the morning when +39 02 5031 4683 the Brera Botanical Garden also supplied orticola.org there are fewer people and to stop for ortobotanicoitalia.it/ medicinal plants to the Brera Pharmacy. a chat with the nursery owners. lombardia/brera

272 BOTANICAL GARDENS This space is situated near the Polytechnic OF THE UNIVERSITY University and close to some faculties AT: UNIVERSITY OF MILAN, of the State University. It is open to the FACULTY OF SCIENCE public and is used for scientific research Via Camillo Golgi 18 and educational activities. Here the East ➅ region’s native species of the region are +39 02 5032 0886 preserved and studied. The avant-garde ortobotanicoitalia.it/ greenhouses host an interesting collection lombardia/milano of carnivorous plants.

273 ORTI FIORITI The CityLife public park will become the AT CITYLIFE PARK city’s second ‘green lung’ and will also West ➇ have flower gardens. The project includes city-life.it the cultivation of aromatic and medicinal herbs, flowers and vegetables on 3000 271 BOTANICAL GARDEN OF BRERA square metres of city land.

154 155 5 CONTEMPORARY ART STOPS

356 FABBRICA A 30.000-square-metre space, that is half DEL VAPORE covered and is dedicated to all artforms Via G. C. Procaccini 4 including visual, performative and North-West �� multimedia. The fabbrica is situated in fabbricadelvapore.org premises that once belonged to a railway equipment factory, with sheds, buildings with large windows and an art nouveau design, where young artists can also reside. Check the online events calendar.

357 FONDAZIONE PRADA Rem Koolhaas’s OMA studio has Largo Isarco 2 juxtaposed the existing buildings of South-East ➆ an early-20th-century distillery with +39 02 5666 2611 three new buildings, called Podium, fondazioneprada.org Cinema and Tower. The latter, which was inaugurated in 2018, offers an unprecedented view of the city through the large windows and from the rooftop bar. All the spaces host artworks and installations from the Prada collection.

358 PIRELLI HANGARBICOCCA

192 193 5 experiences for 412 CASA MILAN Another museum dedicated solely to Via Aldo Rossi 8 AC Milan fans, by Casa Milan, where FOOTBALL LOVERS West ➇ children can participate in fun-educational +39 02 6228 4545 itineraries thanks to 14 touch screens, find casamilan.acmilan.com all the merch at the store and eat with their parents in the Cucina Milanello restaurant. A full ‘red-and-black’ immersion.

413 MILAN STORE From onesies to teddy bears wearing the 411 STADIO Inside the stadium, the museum tells AT: GALLERIA SAN CARLO Milan jersey, to a plush ball, tracksuits Piazzale Angelo the story of the Milan and Inter teams Corso Vittorio and bathrobes for older kids and adults. Moratti through champions’ jerseys and shoes, Emanuele II Many of the official products can be West ➇ trophies and memorabilia. Combine Duomo-San Babila ➁ customised on the spot for a fun gift. +39 02 4042 432 the tour with a visit of the stadium, +39 02 2630 3235 In the city centre or available online. sansiro.net when there are no events and games store.acmilan.com in progress. Do check in advance. 414 INTER STORE Black and blue is the theme of this store. Galleria Passarella 2 And in 2018, to mark the team’s 110th Duomo-San Babila ➁ anniversary (it was founded in 1908), +39 02 2630 3235 they launched a series of celebratory store.inter.it products, including signed t-shirts. And smartphone covers that can be personalised with your name.

415 ARENA CIVICA / The arena is named after Gianni Brera, ARENA a journalist and sports writer. But the GIANNI BRERA arena is ’s oldest stadium and home AT: PARCO SEMPIONE to for over twenty years. Here Viale Giorgio Byron 2 the first championship, the first pennant, Cairoli-Castello ➂ and the first Italian Cup were won. Long fondambiente.it before Inter, the arena was once filled 411 STADIO SAN SIRO with water, hosting naval battles.

218 219 5 472 VILLAGGIO CRESPI This ‘ideal company town’ was built D’ADDA by the Crespi family, next to its textile UNESCO SITES Crespi d’Adda (BG) factory, along the river Adda. The +39 02 9098 7191 employees and their families had a house (out of 10 in ) villaggiocrespi.it with a vegetable garden and a yard, as well as a communal indoor pool. Also worth visiting is the moving cemetery.

473 SANTA GIULIA Built in 753 AD by the Longobard King 471 BERGAMO The walls – which were built by the MUSEUM Desiderius, the Santa Giulia Museum is CARRARA ACADEMY Republic of Venice from 1561 onwards, and Via dei Musei 81-B a former convent. Visit the Longobard Piazza Giacomo which are just over 5 km long – became Brescia (BS) basilica, the Romanesque oratory, the Carrara 82 a UNESCO site in 2017. Follow them to +39 030 297 7833 Choir of the nuns, the 16th-century +39 035 234 396 the upper town, which you can also reach santagiulia.info church of Santa Giulia and the cloisters. lacarrara.it by funicular, to Piazza Vecchia, with the turismobrescia.it The Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo, with Colleoni Chapel that charmed Le Corbusier. works by Raphael, Romanino, Hayez and The marvellous Carrara Academy recently Canova, is also worth a visit. reopened in lower Bergamo. 474 SABBIONETA Along with Mantua, which is also on the turismo.mantova.it UNESCO heritage list, Sabbioneta is one of the symbols of the Renaissance. This small ‘independent state’, an ‘ideal city’, was built from scratch in the second half of the 1500s by Vespasiano Gonzaga. The hexagonal city wall has been preserved.

475 CREMONA The sound of violins resounds throughout turismocremona.it the city, from over 150 violin shops and the Violin Museum. On special occasions, you can hear some of the historical instruments in the Auditorium, which has perfect acoustics. The Duomo and the 471 BERGAMO Torrazzo, Europe’s tallest brick tower, are also worth visiting.

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