Cable Knitter's Guide © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books

DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder Denise Samson A Complete Resource for Today’s Knitter MASTERING CABLES guide The cable knitter’s The HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER Cable Knitter’s Cables are beautiful and fun to knit—but if you’ve never worked one before, it’s hard to know where to start. Now your ultimate roadmap to the 50 Patterns, 25 Projects, twists and turns of cabling is here. Inside: Countless Tips and Ideas GUIDE • Discover 50 gorgeous variations on the basic cable, from the elegantly simple to the eye-catchingly complex. • Become a cable expert, with detailed photographs, diagrams, and step-by-step instructions to follow. • Test your cabling skills on 25 delightful, striking patterns for garments, accessories, and furnishings, from socks to sweaters, potholders to throws, and so much more!

plus: Denise Samson YouTube video tutorials of the author demonstrating how to work each cable!

$24.95 USD ISBN 978-1-57076-792-0 5 2 4 9 5 Printed in China

www.trafalgarbooks.com 9 781570 767920 © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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In memory of my sister, Mona.

This book is dedicated to Anne and Toril— for their enduring and inspiring friendship.

First published in the United States of America in 2016 by Trafalgar Square Books North Pomfret, Vermont 05053

Originally published in Norwegian as Hekta på fletter: Et oppslagsverk i flettestrikk.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, by any means, without written permission of the publisher, except by a reviewer quoting brief excerpts for a review in a magazine, newspaper or web site.

The instructions and material lists in this book were carefully reviewed by the author and editor; however, accuracy cannot be guaranteed. The author and publisher cannot be held liable for errors.

ISBN: 978-1-57076-792-0

Library of Congress Control Number: 2016955566

Interior designer: Laila S. Gundersen Photography: Guri Pfeifer Foto Patterns and diagrams: Denise Samson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades

Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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Contents

A Little History 5 Running Cables 108 Boot Toppers 144 Cable Knitting 5 Cables with Two Cable Maj’s Ankle Socks 146 Zopf (Swiss braided loaf) 6 Needles 110 Tormod’s Stockings 148 Chart Symbols Sigrid’s Poncho 150 and QR Codes 8 PART 2—GARMENTS, Pullover for Petter 152 Abbreviations 3 ACCESSORIES, AND Ingeborg’s Hat 154 HOUSEHOLD ITEMS 116 Tunic with Heart Cables 156 PART I—CABLE PATTERNS 14 Glass Cozies 118 Women’s Aran Wrap False Cables 16 Breakfast Mats 120 Sweater 160 Cables over 2 or More Potholders 122 Men’s Aran Sweater 162 Stitches 24 Curtain Bands 124 Bolero 165 Diamonds 68 Cozy Slippers 126 Bag 168 Cables and Lace 74 Throw 128 Celtic-Inspired Sweater 170 Celtic Cables 82 Hat, Cowl, Mittens, and Throw 174 Cables with Twisted Knit Leg Warmers 132 Acknowledgments 177 Stitches 90 Frode’s Scarf 136 Resources 177 Wrapped Stitches 86 Carpenter’s Comforts 139 Yarn Information 177 Reversible Cables 102 Socks with Reversible Cables 142

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preface

Every time I see someone knitting cables, I get cu- Knitting with a cable needle isn’t very difficult once rious and have to look and see what the pattern is. you get the hang of it, and you can make an unbe- It’s just so fascinating to see stitches that twist over lievable number of lovely designs. You just need a and under each other; there are so many possibilities little patience at the beginning. Once you’re com- for making pretty cable fortable, you’ll even discover a patterns, and the results little challenge waiting—three are always so appealing. It of the patterns are worked using doesn’t take much cabling two cable needles. on a sweater or a pillow to immediately make it more In the first part of the book, I exciting. And cabling is so describe many different cable much fun! It’s a little like techniques; in the second, I knitting stripes in different discuss how you can use and colors—I’m always so eager combine the cable patterns to find out how the next in various designs. You’ll find cable crossing will look. everything from easy mug cozies and potholders to larger pieces I don’t know how many like throws and cardigans. Once times I’ve heard friends say, you’ve learned the symbols “I’ll never be able to knit ca- for the various cables that are bles, they look so difficult.” shown on the charts, you’ll soon But they’re not so hard be an expert at cable knitting. once you’ve learned how to Each of the cabling techniques do them. For simple cables, included has its own QR code; if you don’t even need a cable you have a smart phone or tab- needle to work them. let, you just have to download a QR app and scan the code to see For the most part, cable a video demonstration. (If you knitting involves one don’t have a smartphone, never or several stitches that fear—the URL for my YouTube change places on the knit- channel where all the videos are ting needle, but there are exceptions. Some patterns posted is also included.) are constructed so that they only look like cables and you don’t need an extra needle. For other pat- And, best of all? On page 6, you’ll find the recipe for terns, you slip some stitches to a cable needle and an amazingly good cable-braided bread. wrap the yarn around the stitches, which creates a wonderful effect. I’ll show you how you can knit Denise Samson reversible cables, too, which are the best choice for projects like throws where both sides are going to be visible.

4 the cable knitter's guide © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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a little history lished some articles about the garments in 1950 Cable patterns originated in the Aran Islands, and exports from the west coast of Ireland to the which lie off the west coast of Ireland—this is why USA began in the 1950s. This gave work to women a traditional sweater with multiple cables is often all over Ireland. Even now, the popularity of Aran called an Aran sweater. These traditional sweat- sweaters continues to grow. However, the lack of ers are most often knitted with unbleached 100% proficient knitters and the economic gain brought wool yarn. Earlier in history, they were worn by by mass-produced, machine-knit garments have fishermen and farmers. The sweaters were knitted meant that hand-knitted garments are almost with unprocessed wool that retains its natural oil, impossible to find on the islands now. Hand-knitted lanolin, which is water-resistant and provides good garments are quite valuable and rare. A finished Aran protection against rain, wind, and cold. That kind sweater contains about 100,000 precisely worked of sweater could absorb 30% of its weight in water stitches and can take up to 60 days to make because before it felt damp against the body. of the complexity of the patterns.

Originally, women were primarily knitting these Today we find cable knitting on many other kinds of sweaters just for family members; but in 1892, garments and accessories, but Aran sweaters will local knitters in the islands began to sell their work always be a symbol of timeless beauty, synonymous through, among other outlets, the Congested with pride in Irish cultural heritage. District’s Board for Ireland—an organization working against poverty and hardship. At the time, the About Cable Knitting sale of Aran sweaters was a large part of the islands’ Most cable patterns, from the easiest to the most income, and local knitters and designers had the complicated, are worked using the same tech- opportunity to produce new pattern combinations. nique—one or more stitches change places in the fabric. In order to accomplish this, you can use In the old days, none of the pattern combinations a cable needle or a cable hook but you can even were made by chance—quite the opposite. Tradi- rearrange the stitches on the needle by hand if you tional sweaters are connected to particular clans are only crossing one or two stitches. I’ll come back and their identity. By examining a pattern combina- to this later. You can cross stitches both to the right tion, you could tell which clan the person was from; and to the left. So that the cable pattern will stand this information was very useful when identifying out, you can work purl stitches, garter stitch, or bodies washed onto shore after a shipwreck. The seed stitch on each side of the cable. Some patterns symbols in the pattern motifs were said to have are worked such that you transfer a certain number special meaning. The traditional cable that is knitted of stitches from the left needle to a cable needle, over four or more stitches symbolized rope and take the yarn and wrap it around the stitches on represented a wish for good fishing out at sea. A the cable needle, and then return the stitches to the diamond motif represented a patch of ground on the left needle. No stitches have changed places but the islands; a diamond filled with seed stitch symbolized effect and pattern are especially pretty. kelp, which was used in agriculture to ensure good crops. Therefore, the diamond symbolized a wish for Once you understand the technique of knitting riches and success. The honeycomb pattern was also cables, you can knit even the most complicated regarded as a symbol of wealth. patterns—and I can promise you that you will earn much praise for your finished pieces. At the Aran Sweater Market on the Aran Islands, you can see the public register of these historic patterns. One general tip that is important to remem- ber is that, when the cable moves to the right, The first commercially-available knitting patterns hold the cable needle behind the work and, with Aran motifs were published in 1940 by Patons when it moves to the left, hold the cable nee- and Baldwins in England. Vogue Magazine pub- dle in front of the work.

the cable knitter's guide 5 © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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CABLE PATTERNS

Part 1

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CABLE PATTERNS

Part 1

In this section of the book, I’ve collected 50 different cable patterns that are shown with symbols, written instructions, and charts. Most of the swatches were worked with 40 stitches and 40 rows. All the swatches were knitted with Lerke from Dale of Norway on U.S. size 6 / 4 mm needles. Some of these cables are used in the patterns in the second part of the book, so you can see how the various cable techniques look when they are worked over a larger surface. You can also see how the cables look with finer or heavier yarn, different sizes of needles, or how several cable patterns can be com- bined in a garment or other type of knitting.

I hope you’ll be inspired to try all kinds of cables in your own work, and become just as hooked on cables as I am.

Good luck!

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16 false cables © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

CableKnits_Interior2.indd 16 11/5/16 12:52 PM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder No. 4 OPTIC EFFECT CABLE

QR codes: Tw1R and Tw1L This cable is worked over 36 stitches and 28 rows. You don’t need a cable needle. This is a good cable for large items, such as a sweater, blanket, or bathmat, where the pattern can be repeated several times. In this case, I’ve knitted garter stitch edges to showcase the pattern.

The pattern is used on the Potholders, page 122.

22 false cables © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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24 cable over two or more stitches © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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34 cable over two or more stitches © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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42 cable over two or more stitches © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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46 cable over two or more stitches © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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no. 16 wide hair braid cable

Prøvelapp 16 QR codes: C8F and C8B Prøvelapp 16 ThisPrøvelapp pattern 16shows two identical cables that lean to both the right and left. The repeat is worked over 12 stitches and 16 rows. The pattern is used on the Women’s Aran Wrap Sweater (see page 160).

16 16 16 15 14 15 15 14 14 13 12 13 13 12 12 11 10 11 11 10 10 9 8 9 9 8 8 7 = 16 m 1 rapport = 16 m 7 = 16 m 16 rows 6 1 rapport 7 1 rapport 6 6 5 = 1 repeat 4 5 5 4 4 3 2 3 3 2 2 1 1 1 rapport 1 1 rapport= 12 m 11 repeatrapport = = 12 m =12 12 sts m

CO 40 sts. Knit on RS, purl on WS Purl on RS, knit on WS Row 1 and all RS rows without cable crossing: P4, k12, p8, k12, p4. C8B = Sl 4 sts to cn and hold in back of work, Row 2 and all WS rows: K4, p12, k8, p12, k4. k4, k4 from cn Row 3: Work as for Row 1. Row 5: P4, C8B, k4, p8, C8B, k4, p4. C8F = Sl 4 sts to cn and hold in front of work, Row 13: P4, k4, C8F, p8, k4, C8F, p4. k4, k4 from cn Rows 14-16: Work as for Rows 1-2.

Rep Rows 1-16 once more and then work Rows 1-8 = 40 rows.

cable over two or more stitches 47 © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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52 cable over two or more stitches © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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Diamonds

Diamond motifs are most often worked with a texture-effect pattern inside a diamond—or the diamonds connect with a cable. Reverse stockinette or bobbles combine with diamonds for an exciting effect.

68 diamonds © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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Cables and Lace

Cables and lace combine for charming patterns and effects. It might seem a little discouraging to knit both lace and cable patterns at the same time, but once you’ve learned how to read the charts, you’ll quickly understand the logic.

74 cables and lace © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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GARMENTS, ACCESSORIES, AND HOUSEHOLD ITEMS

part 2

In the following pages, you’ll find pattern instructions for a variety of items knitted with cables mostly taken from Part 1. Some of the pieces combine several cable patterns and, once you’ve learned how to knit cables, you can arrange your own pattern combinations for your designs. You’ll also find alternate uses for some of the pieces in this section.

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Diagram glassholder

28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

13 = 28 m 1 rapport 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 knitting tip 4 3 2 Put a tea-light in a glass that 1 you aren’t using for a latte, so 50 m the glass cozy becomes a fine tea-light holder. Or, using a soft, pretty alpaca yarn, knit a pair of wrist warmers in the same pattern (see next page). If you knit the wrist warmers with an extra repeat lengthwise, you will have long and elegant cuffs.

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I have a tendency to throw my legs up on a hassock when I sit down to knit and watch TV or listen to music in the evening. It’s not long before my toes are freez- ing. For that reason, I always have a pair of cozy slippers in my handwork basket and these keep me quite toasty. I added a thin layer of Sock Stop (latex) on the soles so the slippers won’t be slippery. You can buy the latex at hobby shops, some yarn stores, or on the internet.

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Diagram hals

Vrangbord vott Gjenta rapport

Rapport 46 m Gjenta

Venstre leggvarmer 32 m Høyre leggvarmer 32 m Gjenta Gjenta

Venstre vott 16 m Høyre vott 16 m Lue 24 m

for 3½ in / 9 cm. Continue in Decrease Row 1 (RS): (K2, Right Mitten stockinette and cable following k2tog) across, ending with k2. Work as for left mitten but the chart for the left mitten. At Purl 1 row. mirror-image. After completing the same time, shape the thumb Decrease Row 2: (K1, k2tog) the ribbing, place thumbhole as gusset: Work 18 sts, M1, k2, M1, across, ending with k2. follows: k2, pattern following the chart Purl 1 row. K4, 16 sts charted pattern, k2, M1, over 16 sts, k4. Turn and work 1 Decrease Row 3: K2tog across. k2, M1, k18. Turn and work 1 row. row. Increase on the next row by Cut yarn and draw end through On the next row: work 19 sts, M1, working 19 sts, M1, k4, M1, k2, ca- rem sts; tighten. k4, M1, k2, 16 sts charted pattern, ble over 16 sts, k4. Turn and work k4. Turn and work 1 row. Con- 1 row. Continue increasing the Thumb tinue increasing the same way same way until there are 10 sts Place the 10 sts set aside for until there are 10 sts for thumb. for the thumb. Place these 10 sts thumb onto dpn U.S. size 8 / 5 Continue and finish as for left on a holder and complete row. mm; pick up and knit 4 sts across mitten. On the next row, CO 2 sts over top of thumbhole. The first row gap = 42 sts total. Continue in will be a little tight. Work the Finishing stockinette and charted pattern. thumb back and forth in stocki- With WS facing, seam each When piece measures 8 in / 20 nette for about 2 in / 5 cm. Shape mitten with whip stitch in the cm from cast-on row, shape top. tip of thumb as for top of mitten. outermost stitch loop at each Cut yarn and draw end through side. Seam thumb. Weave in all Shape top of the mitten. rem sts; tighten. ends neatly on WS. Work in stockinette over all the sts.

134 hat, cowl, mittens, and leg warmers © Denise Samson, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com

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Snekkerens trøst

Pulsvarmere (strikk hele diagrammet) Hals

20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

9 = 20 m 1 rapport 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Bytt ut m til kantm på halsen Montering hals A

A 42 m 42 B Plukk opp

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Row 8: Sl 1 purlwise, k10, ssk, k1; The rest of the sock is worked in k2tog, k1. turn. stockinette. Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end of Row 9: Sl 1 purlwise, p11, p2tog, Shape Gusset: needle. p1; turn. Rnd 1: Needle 3: Work as for Needle 1. Row 10: Sl 1 purlwise, k12, ssk, Needle 1: Knit until 3 sts rem, Needle 4: Work as for Needle 2. k1; turn. k2tog, k1. Rnd 2: Knit. Row 11: Sl 1 purlwise, p12, p2tog; Needles 2 and 3: Knit across. Rep Rnds 1-2 until 6 sts rem on turn = 14 sts rem. Cut yarn. Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end of each dpn. needle. Sl the first 6 sts to a dpn; the next Gusset Rnd 2: Knit. 12 sts on next dpn and the last The foot is worked with sts Rep Rnds 1-2 5 more times = 12 sts 6 sts to 1st dpn. Now put each divided over 4 dpn. Sl 7 of the 14 decreased and 48 sts rem (12 sts set of sts onto a large safety pin heel sts to a dpn = Needle 1 and, on each dpn). or waste yarn. Turn the sock with same dpn, pick up and knit inside out and return sts to their 11 sts along left side of heel flap. Foot respective needles. Hold the Sl 12 sts to Needle 2 and 12 sts to Continue around in stockinette needles parallel and, using a Needle 3 = instep. With Needle until foot measures 8¾ (9½) in / third dpn, join with three-needle 4, pick up and knit 11 sts along 22 (24) cm from heel. bind-off. Weave in all ends neatly right side of flap and then k7 on WS. from heel. You should have 18 Toe Shaping sts each on Needles 1 and 4 and Rnd 1: Make the second sock the same 12 sts each on Needles 2 and 3. Needle 1: Knit until 3 sts rem, way.

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knitting tip

This poncho can also be worn as a bell-shaped skirt. It fits sizes 10/12 (14/16) and Small. You might want to sew in an elastic band so it will fit well at the waist.

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knitting tip

If you knit this pullover a little lon- ger, it can be worn by a woman as a tunic (see photo on page opposite Contents page).

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Veske Veske Veske

Diagram 1 (For- og bakstykke) Diagram 1 (For- og bakstykke) 12 Diagram 1 (For- og bakstykke) 12 11 12 11 Fell av når 10 11 arbFell målerav når 34 cm 10 119 Fellarb målerav når 34 cm 10 9 arb måler 34 cm 8 9 arb måler 34 cm 8 9 8 7 8 7 6 7 7 6 gjentas gjentas

5 1 rapport 6 5 1 rapport gjentas

4 5 1 rapport gjentas

5 1 rapport 4 3 4 3 2 3 2 31 2 1 32 m 1 32 m 1 strikkes 2 ggr strikkes32 m 2 ggr strikkes 2 ggr DiagramChart 2 (side 2 (Sidekant edge andog bunn) base) Diagram 2 (Sidekant og bunn) 12 Diagram 2 (Sidekant og bunn) 12 12 11 BO when piece 13½ in / 34 cm measures 10 11 10 11 Knit on RS, purl on WS 10 9 8 9 8 9 Edge st (sl 1 knitwise wyb at beg of 8 7 row and p1 at end of row) 6 7 6 7 gjentas gjentas 12 rows 5 1 rapport 6 5 1 rapport gjentas 1 repeat = 1 repeat

4 5 1 rapport C10F = Sl 5 sts to cn and hold in gjentas 4 5 1 rapport 4 3 front of work, k5, k5 from cn 2 3 2 3 2 1 C10B = Sl 5 sts to cn and hold in 1 back of work, k5, k5 from cn 1

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knitting tip

Use leftover yarns to knit throws in a variety of colors, just making sure that the yarns are suitable for working on U.S. size 6 / 4 mm needles. You’ll have some colorful and fun throws.

CableKnits_Interior2.indd 174 11/5/16 12:59 PM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder Denise Samson A Complete Resource for Today’s Knitter MASTERING CABLES guide The cable knitter’s The HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER Cable Knitter’s Cables are beautiful and fun to knit—but if you’ve never worked one before, it’s hard to know where to start. Now your ultimate roadmap to the 50 Patterns, 25 Projects, twists and turns of cabling is here. Inside: Countless Tips and Ideas GUIDE • Discover 50 gorgeous variations on the basic cable, from the elegantly simple to the eye-catchingly complex. • Become a cable expert, with detailed photographs, diagrams, and step-by-step instructions to follow. • Test your cabling skills on 25 delightful, striking patterns for garments, accessories, and furnishings, from socks to sweaters, potholders to throws, and so much more!

plus: Denise Samson YouTube video tutorials of the author demonstrating how to work each cable!

$24.95 USD ISBN 978-1-57076-792-0 5 2 4 9 5 Printed in China

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