Goulburn River National Park

Volume 30 Issue 5 River Walking, Wollemi Wilderness Spring 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Bushwalker ‘Where Am I’ Competition

Picture 13 Picture 15

Picture Picture 16

Each Issue has four photos taken You can also see these pictures on the Travel has donated one $100 voucher somewhere in NSW in places where Confederation web site, along with per issue. bushwalkers go. These will NOT be descriptions and winners. Any financial member of an affiliated obscure places. Bushwalking Club can enter. We may You have to identify the place and Entry requirements check with your Club membership roughly where the photographer secretary, so make sure you are Just saying something like ‘Blue Gum was standing for any ONE of the financial, so you must include the Forest’ would not be enough. pictures. (You do not have to name of your club with your entry. However, something like ‘Blue Gum identify all four.) The Editor’s decision is final. After all, Forest from the start of the descent Send your answers (up to four per he took the photos. This does mean down DuFaurs Buttress’ would issue) to the: that some areas of NSW may not qualify. In short, provide enough [email protected] appear in the competition for a while. information that someone else could as quickly as possible. My apologies to Clubs in those areas. navigate to that spot and take a close Usually, only one prize per person approximation to the photo. Of will be awarded from each issue of Results from last issue course, if you want to give a map The Bushwalker. You can score in Photo 9: Summit of Mt Jagungal in winter, name and grid reference, that would successive issues. looking south. be fine too. Identified by Dave Noble Photo 10: Bowtells bridge on the Cox River, Deadline for entries on the Six Foot Track. The Editor may start allocating prizes The prizes? Identified by Pat Hagan. Photo 11: Narrowneck, Tarros Ladders, from as and when qualifying entries arrive. Three companies well-known to us all bend in Water Board Road. The competition remains open if have donated cash vouchers Identified by Dick Weston. there are no correct entries for a redeemable in their stores. The Paddy Photo 12: Whites River Hut, KNP, in winter. photo. If several really correct entries Pallin group has donated two $50 Identified by Mark Dabbs and Photo 2 from the Summer edition: North for a photo arrive together, one will vouchers per issue, Mountain end of Kerries towards Mt Jagungal. be picked out of a hat. So get your Equipment has donated one $100 Identified (at last) by Dave Noble. entries in as fast as possible! voucher and their allied store Trek & So you can still lodge an entry for photo 6.

2 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker From the editor’s desk. . . The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 elcome to the fourth issue of the new colour version of The Bushwalker, the magazine of the Confederation of Bushwalking ISSN 0313 2684 WClubs NSW. The last issue saw another welcome development: Barry Hanlon joined me to take over the graphics layout. Barry is a Editor: Roger Caffin professional in this area, and you may have noticed a definite improvement in [email protected] the layout as a result. Thanks Barry! (By the way, Barry and his wife have also Graphic Design: Barry Hanlon recently collected gold and silver medals in orienteering competitions.) Confederation Officers: We desperately need someone to help us with the advertising and President: Margaret Covi marketing, both for this magazine and the nascent ‘Bush Pages’ on the web [email protected] site. This magazine is expensive to produce and the colour advertisements help Administration Officer: cover the costs. The web site also costs the Confederation money, and we have [email protected] decided to have a commercial area under the heading ‘Bush Pages’ which can carry relevant paid advertisements. But we need an experienced marketing Website: www.bushwalking.org.au person to drive both of these areas. No pay, but plenty of glory! Enquiries please to [email protected]. Address all correspondence to: We can’t produce this magazine without something to print. Clubs and PO Box 2090, GPO, Sydney 2001 members are encouraged to submit relevant articles, with a strong preference for those with good pictures. We will also accept articles from outside bodies The Confederation of Bushwalking where the articles seem relevant to members. Articles may be edited for length Clubs NSW Inc represents and content to help fit into our page limit. Pictures should be sent at maximum approximately 65 Clubs with a total resolution: 300 dpi PDF or TIFF preferred. Really long articles may not fit membership of about 10,000 however - sorry about that. And, of course, the Editor is always interested in bushwalkers. receiving bushwalking books and maps for review. Enquiries should be sent to Formed in 1932, the Confederation [email protected]. All that said, the Editor has to apologise to a provides a united voice on behalf of all couple of contributors whose excellent contributions simply didn’t fit into our bushwalkers on conservation, access and other issues. page limit this time. They will appear soon. Please note that opinions expressed by authors do not always represent the It runs training courses for members, official opinions of the Confederation or any of the Clubs. The Editor’s helps to provide a free wilderness search and rescue organisation, and opinions don’t represent anyone at all. helps runs bush navigation We apologise about misspelling Warwick Willmott’s name in the article by competitions. Alex Tucker in the last issue. Roger Caffin People interested in joining a bushwalking club may write to the Editor Confederation Administration (below) for a list of Clubs, but a more up-to- date version can be found on the Confederation website at www.bushwalking.org.au, broken up into areas. Index Photo Competition 2 From the Editor’s Desk 3 Goulburn River National Park 4 Wombat in the Snow 6 Tallowa Dam Threatens Ettrema Wilderness 7 Subscribe to The Bushwalker Six Waterfalls 8 Keep up with all the news and developments happening in the NSW bushwalking scene for Navshield 2005 9 only $10 per year. This is to cover posting and Mountain Map Review 10 handling: the magazine itself is free. Send your name and address and cheque or West Sydney Wild, Book Review 11 money order to Confederation of Bushwalking As it Happened, Book Review 11 Clubs NSW, PO Box 2090, GPO Sydney 2001. Make the cheque or money order payable to Backpack Gear Test 11 the Confederation as well. Memoirs of Patagonia 13 Please indicate which issue you want your sub- scription to start with. We don't want to dupli- The Bushwalkers’ War Memorial at Splendour Rock 14 cate copies you already have. Gear for Sale 14 You do have to be a member of one of our clubs to enter the ‘Where Am I’ Competition.

Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Goulburn River National Park Michael Keats, The Bush Club, August 2005 scaping to a new freedom. This was Now was the time. With 15kgs on my It was a strange creature. The udder was the mainstream of my thoughts as back, my resolve to be a pack walker was to fully developed but it acted like a bull, EKellie and I drove north out of the be tested. The track in was benevolently pawing the ground and snorting. It had a city. Today was special for the writer. It was kind – it was all down-hill. While the pack slightly insane appearance and gave a new my initiation into the world of pack walking. was there I was not conscious of its weight meaning to mad cow disease. Mike I would not be returning for 3 days. On my on my back, but rather on the shoulders. At Papworth decided to call its bluff and it back I would carry my shelter, my food, and Morrisons Flat after a pleasant lunch above backed off, allowing all of us to pass. all the other necessities for successful the Goulburn River, the party jointly and Other blanched items are the shells or survival and most importantly for total severally did a critical review of how the tests of thousands of the introduced garden enjoyment of the natural world. pack and my back related to each other. snail, Helix aspersa. Wherever there has After a very easy drive we entered the There was ample confirmation that my been moisture these snails have multiplied picturesque village of Denman a full hour back is no ordinary back. A compound in their thousands. As the land has dried out before the scheduled meeting time. Kellie scoliosis was not what any pack they have died, unable to maintain enough had been quizzing me on what I had packed manufacturer has in mind. After much water in their systems to survive. Only one and rightly determined that some refining manipulation the pack was sitting more specimen of an indigenous snail was sighted was in order. This was after a half day of – a very bleached and broken Meridolum sp. schooling by ultra-light walker Gay Skarratt Our way forward was along the and the equivalent of at least a day by leader riverbanks. At every turn the prospect was Graham who worked diligently to ensure my enticing. The sandstone cliffs along the river first pack walk was memorable for all the are not continuous. This makes for variety in right reasons. The best part of a kilogram the scenery with each bend revealing was shed as a result. something special. Many of the cliffs are Graham and Ken having arrived we pocked with deep caves of infinite design gathered in the Cobbler’s Patisserie, Denman and variety. and indulged in coffee and a country-made Leaders of course never tell the whole custard tart. Time to hit the road. As we story about a walk. Where would be the joy moved west the country became more of discovery if they did? An omission is the picturesque. A study of the map confirmed existence of many species of pernicious that as we looked south we were viewing the burrs. There is one burr/cactus (Opuntia sp) northern edge of the Wollemi National Park. which is fiendish is its perniciousness. The serrated ridges, dramatic profiles and Segmented as it grows, the slightest knock glorious mountains begging to be climbed all by an indiscrete or careless boot and a piece sent vibrations to the bush walking soul detaches and impales itself into your saying this is your country, come and sate boot/clothes/person. The spines are each yourself with my pleasures. [Ha! Ed.] over one centimetre in length and have Well, it was not to be the Wollemi on this some reverse barbs that make removal occasion. Our destination lay to the north - almost as exquisite in pain level as their the Goulburn River National Park. Still, we entry. These gems of natural warfare are would have a sampling of the Wollemi. After Graham Conden, Trip Leader, breakfast almost universal in distribution along the following the Kerrabee Arm the road climbs river. If you were seeking a low cost device a steep ridge (about 200m high) that comfortably and the shoulders gained some of torture, this is it. separates the Kerrabee Arm from relief. This process of adjustment was Campsite number one was perfect. We Honeysuckle Creek. At a vantage point repeated many times during the days ahead, arrived at 15:00 or thereabouts and I was designated Coxs Gap we pulled over and always creating hilarity. very pleased to put down my pack and pick went for a short explore, to look at Birds Ck. So far I have not reported on the bush as a site to erect the tent. Apart from being a Filled with inspiration and country air such while we walked. Overshadowing all bit slow and creating entertainment the and several pictures later we hit the road else is a dryness and harshness that is process was managed reasonably well. again and, by arrangement met with the characteristic of the Central West of the Communal wood and water collecting fifth member of the party: Michael state. It is exacerbated at present as we enter followed as we prepared to organise Papworth. Our convoy of three 4WDs then the fifth year of below average rainfall ourselves for the night. Stripping and headed for the locked gate access to coupled with the warmest winter on record. washing in the river was a joy – the water Drummers Flat, our planned exit point. Here There is a toughness in the surviving having just an edge. Not two metres from we dropped my 4WD and then drove west vegetation and a resilience in the plants Kellie’s fly a great dragon (Amphibolurus along the broad valley of Murrumbo Creek attempting to flower and reproduce. Acacia nobbi) sat on a elevated branch about half a to a disused track heading north. This would species (there are at least 5) still glowed metre off the ground, totally immobilised have been the access for the Morrison Flats with gold however the genus Epacris and allowing picture after picture with flash. It when it was-ADISONS?XPDF0- an operating cattle property. some Pimmelias were struggling. did not move until dusk. Here we parked the other 4WDs. The blanched bones of cattle are frequent ocal exploration and photography # reminders all over Lpreceded happy hour and tall tales - the area of how before the business of dinner. It was such a www.MadisonsRetreat.com.au tough this place is mild night that we stayed up talking till 9 4 self-contained cottages, for the unfit and 20:30 before turning in and star gazing

#- bordering on Wollemi and the lame. In short, ourselves to sleep. Blue Mtns National Parks they die. The group Day two started early, at 05:30, with the -9 had an encounter sounds of multiple bird-calls and for me the Heated pool and spa, massage, #9 with perhaps the friendly crackling sound of a fire. What a tennis court, guided bushwalks last surviving way to start a perfect day in the bush. Up at #-9 (02)(02) 45674567 73987398 KurrajongKurrajong HtsHts bovine in the Park. 06:10 and a quick check and confirmation

+ 4 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club that I was still in one piece and nowhere Lunch was taken near as sore as I thought I might be. The just short of the ritual of an early morning cup of tea was a northern most point great restorative. Somehow a cuppa in the of the walk. At 12:40 bush always tastes better. it was back in harness. Being only a two star pack walk there At the very northern was time to enjoy breakfast and the morning most point of the walk before striking the tents and packing up. It the river spreads wide was a tad after 09:00 when we crossed the and on the ‘beach’ I river setting out on the tortuous serpentine observed many dead route that would take us through some great specimens of the gorges as the Goulburn River snakes north brackish water several kilometres before wandering south. Thiarid, Plotiopsis agnificent cliff lines and photo balonnensis. Common Mopportunities were with us all day. We along the length of had morning tea on a prominence high the river were above the river at 10:00. Here was an specimens of the example of the land areas that had been Hyriid fresh water cleared for grazing that now provided mussel, Velesunio opportunities for low growing and prostrate ambiguus and the The Goulburn valley native species to show off without small Corbiculid competition. Again many photos were added bivalve, Corbiculina australis. in the area known as Drummers Flat. Here to the collection. Up to this point the weather had been extensive clearing operations and intensive At 10:25 we emerged from a stretch of balmy and warm. A front moved in and it grazing have discouraged any timber almost canyon-like gorge when I saw at a seemed for a while that we might have a wet regrowth. Some fencing still remains. The distance what appeared to be a huge eagle night. However, as fast as it arrived the front pasture is kept closely cropped by perched on an impossible. As we approached moved on and the unseasonably warm kangaroos. Around the site of the old it became clear that this was no eagle: it was conditions returned. We met another access Drummers Flat homestead there are still a goat. Closer again we detected a second track, now almost unusable, would have well constructed yards and an impressive goat and then several kids as well. We noted provided a transport link to the Merriwa stand of native cypress, presumably planted their remarkable agility. Several more goat River way to the east. The NPWS sign calls as a windbreak. sightings occurred including one of a goat this Parsons Gully even though it is on a The walls of the old homestead cellar just close to death. We were astounded when it point. reach above the ground. Inside and down fell several metres during a climb and A series of gullies in this vicinity invite for two metres or so the wooden brackets managed to right itself. Opined that the big exploration – Myrtle, Prices and Parsons. It that would have supported shelves for goods wedge tail eagle seen earlier and or the would be easy to make a case for some base are mute reminders of the pioneering spirit dingo would make dinner of this guy very camping and a lazy few days. There are of people who would have tried to keep soon plenty of deep pools for soaking and the food fresh and away from vermin. The entry The entry of Tunbridge Creek from the scenery would be hard to tire of. Some stairs have long gone and the western wall north also marks the end of another old books, some good tucker and yes, a good is bowing dangerously. It will be a access track - The Policeman’s Track. time would be easy to dereliction of duty by the NPWS if this small arrange. relic is allowed to be lost when it represents At 15:00 Graham a significant phase of the history of what is led us unerringly to now the Goulburn River National Park. another of his High on the eastern cliff line Graham favourite camping pointed out a wonderful ‘roche pierce’ or sites. Equally as pierced rock. Thinking about the numerous picturesque as the caves it is surprising that there are not more night before, this site dramatic natural features like this one. was flanked to the Perhaps if one was to explore some of the north by an imposing canyon-like gullies there would be great cliff and separated finds from us by a deeply he warm conditions that had prevailed incised creek. The Ttill now began to wane and there was a mini plateau of our feeble attempt at rain. Again the front site was open to the seemed to pass. However, on reaching the south and could old gate (that required a limbo rock easily have manoeuvre to negotiate) there were distinct accommodated 30 signs that the best of the day may have tents. It was passed. Certainly our walk had come to an end. River Flats delightful to be just five in number with The reverse car shuffle completed, the Graham and I went for a brief explore and lots of room to spread out. Whether it was group headed off to the Bylong General disturbed a young wombat who moved off in the warm weather or that we were all tired Store where milk shakes and home-style high dudgeon then disappeared down the but happy hour was quickly followed by cookies were welcome against a now biting nearest hole. On the second day when it was dinner and in my case it was star gazing wind. Minus Mike Papworth (who would approaching dusk there were two more time at 19:00. rejoin us for lunch) we headed off to the wombat encounters. As usual the hour before dawn was cold Fern Tree Gully Reserve, north of Rylstone In the sky there was a constant presence and it did not take much effort for me to rise on the Rylstone – Bylong road, to look of raptors – eagles, hawks and shrikes. The at 06:10 and get on with the routine of briefly at the pagodas of the western bird life of the area is remarkably rich and breakfast and striking camp. 08:50 saw us Wollemi National Park, before heading diverse. Where the larger birds were absent stringing out along the river south towards home. plovers, corellas and wagtails abounded our planned exit. The river valley opens up Photos by Michael Keats

Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

A Wombat in the Snow Winter time. Snow time. And that means time for ski touring. Wombats ski touring.

any walkers pack up Ignore the holes in the snow at The valley was sheltered, and cold directions. The sun set gently in the their gear when the the front: they just places where air had flowed down it overnight, west - a new phrase, never before Mwinter comes: “it’s too the snow was not quite as reaching about -10 C. What ALL of used! There was no shelter here, cold for a tent” they say. But really, supportive as it might have been. Wombat’s Friends and Relations and the wind did blow gently it isn’t all that cold, and hardy Twice, with camera in hand. There had been doing overnight, making across the land all night, but the walkers just keep going right was a creek at the bottom. a horde of tracks by the creek, burrow was secure, and the through the year. But not that Jagungal soared up beside the puzzles the mind. Wombat was not disturbed. The many seem to get into the snow way, but the way was not over A ceremonial get-together continued flow of air limited the maybe? In the morning the inside cooling to about -4 C overnight, but of the burrow glistened with a it carried away all the Wombat’s copious layer of hoar frost, which hot breath so the burrow was had to be removed lest it shower completely dry in the morning. A down on the Wombat in an welcome change. inconvenient manner. The walls The open knoll meant the were scraped, and cups of the stuff horizon to the east was wide open, ejected. and a watchful eye was kept for Then away down Straight signs of the morning sun and its Passing Jagungal Creek, on very crusty snow. It Jagungal today. The way was would not do to have an accident across the Strumbo Range, down here: not a soul to be seen admiring mighty Jagungal from all anywhere. Back up onto the tops to angles, cross over to the Geehi River, in the and then down to Straight Creek hope of crossing it safely where the below the tops and sheltered behind Smiths Lookout. Now the gully down from the top has Such lovely weather enough open space, but it is steep country, where everything is crisp and narrow, and the snow was Morning sun and white and sparkling. Well, rather soft. The Wombat was sometimes sparkling - and content to take it gently in the warmth. At the appointed hour the sometimes just a little less than confined space. Towards the sun popped over the horizon and sparkling. bottom the way was exceeding declared the morning. But then, you can’t have snow narrow, and the creek at the Great joy was felt as the warmth on the ground without it being first bottom was open, like a dark wet flowed in. Well, it looked warm of all in the air. But that’s just part pit. But with a few doubtful The Geehi anyhow, even if it was still sub- of the fun, never knowing whether old track runs. But this was not to zero. Another wonderful day saw you will see more than a few be: the river was wide and fast and more good travelling, interspersed metres in front of your nose deep, and rather cold too. with suitable quantities of morning tomorrow. It might, they say, even No matter where, there was tea, across the Geehi plains and be fine tomorrow. always one deep fast channel over Macalister Saddle, down past So on a fine day the Wombat barring the way. So back up onto the cornice with much care, past set off down from Cesjacks saddle, the shelf above the Geehi, to head many sad signs of the fires, and down Cesjacks valley, to the east towards higher ground. back to the home burrow. The Doubtful River. The Doubtful River The valley twists and turns, and evening sky was clear, with a touch is a bit wide, and there aren’t many from a distance the white all blends of pink on the horizon. Another snow bridges across it, but there is together, so that the way of the wonderful trip. usually one near Cesjacks. Mind valley passes all understanding. But you, with all this global warming, The burrow faith in map and compass moves the bridges seem to get more maneouvres the hazards were mountains, and slowly the way marginal each year. Then up the passed, and the open bottom became clear. Actually, the shelf on side valley towards Jagungal reached. With the sun fast sinking the north side of the Geehi is a very it was time to look for a convenient nice one, running gently east all burrow for the night. the way. Eventually high ground The morning dawned very fine, was reached, and thick ice across but very cold. The sun was behind the river was found. Well, thick the whole Strumbo Range, and enough to take a Wombat anyhow. would not appear for some time. Further on it wasn’t so thick, and great slabs floated in the dark river.

Tracks, and holes, in the snow saddle, stopping only for morning Ice on the Upper Geehi tea along the way. It was a fine day, and the Wombat’s tracks And so camp was made just to looked clean and elegant. the west of Tarn Bluff, on a small Party time knoll with a clear view in all Evening

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Tallowa Dam Plan Threatens Ettrema Wilderness Shoalhaven River Alliance

Parts of the oldest wilderness in NSW, the Creeks. These areas represent some of the A walking holiday in the Ettrema Wilderness, would be inundated most popular outdoor recreation sites on under the NSW Government’s plan to the South Coast of NSW. With more increase storage in Lake Yarrunga on the frequent changes in lake levels under the Sorrento & Tuscany Shoalhaven River. To secure water new extraction regime, the barren scar at supplies for the Sydney Metropolitan area the edge of Lake Yarrunga would increase the plan involves raising the height of enormously. The net result would be regions of Italy! Tallowa Dam by up to 11m, and destruction of kilometres of forest, construction of a pipeline to allow higher increased erosion, increased weed A unique, fulfilling way to experience rates of water transfer to Sydney’s infestation and substantial impacts on the delights of ‘il Belpaese’ catchment areas. wilderness and Then NSW Premier conservation values – - the Beautiful Country! Bob Carr announced hardly a recipe for the plans to fast track good wilderness the changes to management. Tallowa Dam in June To date, community this year, with work consultation has been to commence in negligible and November next year. environmental impact A truly different holiday experience. Combine casual rambles Lake Yarrunga lies at assessment non- through the countryside and villages of these romantic regions, the junction of the existent. with the opportunity to meet the locals, enjoy the great local food Shoalhaven and The Shoalhaven River Kangaroo Rivers, Bundanoon Creek forms one of the most and just relax in the village piazza, returning each evening to your about 30km west of rugged and extensive comfortable family-run hotel. (Sept. 2006 - 26 days) Nowra, and is surrounded in large part by gorges in the state and has been described Morton National Park. The boundary of as "some of the most spectacular gorge Other great holiday Antarctica, 15 days, 22nd Jan 2006 the Ettrema Wilderness commences scenery in NSW". destinations planned immediately upstream of the current The state government’s proposal does Turkey, 29 days, 15th May 2006 inundated section of the Shoalhaven nothing to rein in Sydney’s water for our escorted Gorge. Any raising of the dam wall will consumption to more sustainable levels. group tours in 2006 Africa, 17 days, 9th June 2006 result in the drowning of the gorge within Under the plan Sydney’s water extraction the wilderness area. Since the will reach as far south as the Deua include: Vietnam, 17 days, 24th July 2006 introduction of the NSW Wilderness Act in National Park, to within 135km of the 1987, no declared wilderness has ever Victorian Border. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL PAULA TODAY. been revoked or reduced in size. The State government’s plan to inundate parts of the Written by Paul Elwood Mooney. Ettrema Wilderness represents an BEnvSci (Hons), ex-NPWS Environmental unprecedented retraction of wilderness, Survey and Research Division. and will require amendments to NSW Ph: 0429 939152; [email protected] Authorised by Terry Barratt BSc (Hons). legislation for it to proceed. Chair, Shoalhaven River Alliance Inundation would extend a number of Former Superintendent, NPWS Nowra District TC 0905643 1300 884 442 kilometres along the Shoalhaven and and Environmental Scientist, Sydney Water www.firstchoicetravel.com.au ABN 48 087 588 181 Lic No: 2TA4945 Kangaroo Rivers, plus many hundreds of Ph/fax: (02) 4422 1211, 0405 645 293; metres along Bundanoon and Sandy [email protected] KOTARA GLENDALE LAKE HAVEN TUGGERAH ERINA PORT MACQUARIE WILLIS’SWALKABOUTS Wet, wild and wonderful Calling all adventurers

Local bushwalkers know that summer is the best time to enjoy the wild rivers, gentle creeks, thundering waterfalls, carpets of flowers and spectacular storms for which our region is famous. They know that warm rain and cosy rock shelters mean that comfort is never far away. Our wet season used to bring us groups of adventurers keen to see and experience the best that our region has to offer. Times change. Other places came into fashion. One of the best wilderness experiences the world has to offer remains almost unknown. We love it and we want to take you there. We offer everything from trips with full accommodation to major expeditions. We give you the tropical summer the way it was meant to be experienced — on foot. Visit our website or ask us for more information.

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Phone 08 8985 2134

Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Six Waterfalls Armidale, 19th June, 2005

ost of the New England had been in falls, at about (E) 368 drought for months. Walkers in the 264 on the Barwick Mgorges had reported that the Gara {Back Creek on my River had stopped flowing, Salisbury Waters ancient (E)bor 1:25k was just a few stagnant pools, and one party map}. This was a had crossed the Macleay without realising it - pretty little fall and set the bed was overgrown. So we were a bit of cascades, with sceptical when Colin added his “Six Waterfalls plenty of water to give Walk” to the calendar. Some of us expected a it sparkle and dash. each lobe”. We all now have a few scars to day of rough rock scrambling and comments As Colin had anticipated, in this high basalt illustrate the description, without seeing the along the line of “Well, in normal times, it's a country there's nearly always enough water to masses of yellow and brown flowers it bears in really good waterfall...... ” keep the falls running. Yet the streams are Spring. Nevertheless, ten of us hopefully joined seldom so high that you have any real After breaking out of the lower edge Col Colin at Yaraandoo, 71 km from Armidale on problems crossing them. We made the first of suggested lunch, as there wouldn't be enough the Point Lookout road on an overcast Sunday our many creek crossings for the day. Colin room for it at the next waterfall. We yarned in June. We were well rugged up, with had chosen his route wisely, as it was only a about earlier trips, good camera angles, the waterproofs, in the hope of seeing actual short further walk to Moffat Falls, probably the best lightweight stoves ..... Refreshed, we then flowing water. After a short shuttle, we began most photogenic (and the only named) fall of headed down to probably the most spectacular walking along the Barwick (Back) Creek. The the trip. Framed by tall gums, it was an of the day's falls. At about (E) 349 259, the Grassy Forest made for excellent walking, with irresistible sight for the camera-carriers in the Barwick tumbles about 70 metres through a Gum Topped Peppermint, Brown Barrel, New party, and we tried various angles to get that narrow slot it has worn into the bedrock. We England Peppermint, and Messmate perfect Falls shot. We suspect that none of us cautiously crawled to the edge, peering down Stringybark the common trees of the ridges, did as well as Colin - he knew his angles and through the thick scrub, then scrambled about and White Sallee, Black Sallee and New light, and it is his photo included in this article. looking for a full view of the fall. After a England Peppermint the overstorey in the We followed the Barwick west till we cut a couple of fruitless forays, we resigned colder areas. After just about enough walking south-bearing property road. It gradually ourselves to not being able to take a photo to be warmed up, we reached the first of our petered out as we entered thick scrub, where that would do it justice. we made the e then headed up the northwest ridge. acquaintance of Prickly WA blue cord marked the way, apparently Shaggy Pea (also a survey mark for the minihydro planned by known as Native the property owners. A steady puff up the Holly). In the Styx area ridge took us to their house site about 160 this plant forms dense vertical metres above the Barwick. We all felt thickets in a distinct the pull of living in this beautiful spot, but its belt from about 20 to isolation was a bit too much for most of us. So about 80 metres above we headed northwest to take in the last two the major waterfalls. Smaller, but equally attractive, and watercourses. The running well. Heading home along the power botanical description line to Yarandoo, and waving off the four lists the leaves as doing the car shuttle, we settled down to having “margins coffee and sticky date muffins before the wood irregularly lobed with fire at Yaraandoo. A pleasant end to a lovely a spine terminating day.

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Navshield 2005 Weather relents

avShield 2005 was held in Coolah Tops checkpoints are allocated a National Park and adjacent low lying points value that takes into Ncountry. Once again, it was another account the difficulty of great event despite being deferred. Extensive locating them. wet weather meant that on our “usual” weekend All levels of navigators (the first weekend in July) the single access benefit from NavShield. road up to Coolah Tops was impassable. After There is always a deliberate much discussion and liaison with local mix of easy to difficult authorities the event was reluctantly deferred to checkpoints temptingly Winning team, Kangaroo Valley Bushfire Brigade. 13 / 14 August. placed so that teams can The deferment was a let down as you had to still get plenty of practice even in the one-day The results of NavShield 2005 can be found put your enthusiasm on hold. Normally, event. Beginner navigators gain confidence on the BWRS website at NavShield would soon be over and you could from actually finding a checkpoint then www.bwrs.org.au/navshield/index.html soon breathe a big sigh of relief. The choosing a route to the next one. Experienced Despite the obviously high workload the consequences of the deferment were an navigators are rewarded with checkpoints on members of BWRS still enjoy planning and increased workload to make NavShield happen. outstanding locations. By providing a quality running their annual NavShield. We get to do Logistically, all teams had to be notified of the bush navigation event BWRS now regularly has some great bushwalks in setting up NavShield. changed date. A number of teams chose to teams from Ambulance (including paramedics), We also visit some friendly towns like Coolah. withdraw (calculation of refunds etc) with NP&WS, SES, VRA, Rural Fire Service, Armed (Did you notice “Join the VRA” street?) fewer new teams joining. The services BWRS Services and Police Rescue Squads. Bringing all the components together relies on had to be rearranged – NP&WS access, The deferred weekend (and long distance (administration, First Aid, radio Control Points, caterers, portable toilets, NSW Ambulance from Sydney?) for NavShield meant that our Safety, Bushrangers, paramedics, caterers, paramedics, WICEN (VRA radio amateur usual numbers were down. Ninety teams water resupply, toilets etc) on the NavShield operators) and our BWRS support crews congregated on a clear and bright morning for weekend is very satisfying. We look forward to (“Bushrangers”, First Aid, Safety, administration the event briefing and pandemonium of the practicing the organization skills required / etc. massed start as they seek to get their Control liaising with other Emergency Services. NavShield 2005 was our first NavShield with Card and go. While the overall number of teams any thanks to all those members of an upstairs and a downstairs part to the course. was down the quality of the teams was up. BWRS and other groups (WICEN, Upstairs on Coolah Tops was a gently Unlike most years there were almost no injuries MNP&WS, NSW Ambulance, and undulating plateau with sub-alpine vegetation for the First Aider / paramedics to deal with. Coolah Pre-School etc) who all helped make (widely spaced large trees with heavy grasses NavShield is an all weather event. It was only NavShield 2005 so successful. The atmosphere underneath – the open deferred this year as we at NavShield is always infectious. Once again bugbear was extensive fallen could not access Coolah the NavShield participants enjoyed the mixture timber) giving open walking. Tops. of good weather, good food from our caterer, a Downstairs was cleared farm Socialising and well-planned accurate course that was set in country again giving easy interaction between the enjoyable bushwalking country with good event walking. The stairs were four Emergency Services was organization. finger ridges roughly pointing always an unstated aim of There can be no better way to polish up your north with walk down passes NavShield. I enjoy seeing navigation, map reading and socialising skills that gave extensive views to the old hands as they wait to than participation in NavShield 2006. Don’t the Warrumbungles Range in register on Friday night. miss NavShield 2006. the distant north. The BWRS uses a local group to NavShield headquarters was provide catering. Don’t NavShield 2005 Final results at Bendella Lookout, the most waste time cooking when Navigation Shield Winner (Class 1 2 Day) westerly of the four finger you are tired; just eat and Team C032 Kangaroo Valley Bushfire Brigade (1840 Points) ridges. mingle. The local pre-school Class 1 1 Day Trophies The aim of the NavShield mothers provided plenty of 1st - Team C094 NPWS Blue Mountains (940 Points) is to run an Emergency hot, tasty food in a friendly 2nd - Team C092 NPWS Blue Mountains (880 Points) Services bush navigation atmosphere. 3rd - Team C091 NPWS Blue Mountains (820 Points) training event that showcases As usual, the major Class 1 2 Day Trophies the skills and abilities of Award Ceremony around 1st - Team C032 Kangaroo Valley Bushfire Brigade (1840 Points) Bushwalkers Wilderness 3pm Sunday was a great 2nd - Team C016 Shoalhaven SES (1700 Points) Rescue Squad (BWRS). A relief. Another Nav nearly in 3rd - Team C101 UTS Outdoor Adventure Club (1460 successful NavShield requires STEVE BROOK, Rescue Officer for the bag with most teams Points) a well run base site, an Campbelltown SES. home (phew - no searches Class 2 1 Day Trophies accurate but diverse course, required for any overdue 1st - Team C019 Nordic Ski Club (840 Points) good event administration and a Risk teams). The NSW State Rescue Board considers Class 2 2 Day Trophies Management Plan that casts a safety net over NavShield to be a valuable training exercise in 1st - Team C051 Sydney Bushwalkers (1840 Points) the course. Within a limited time teams from bush navigation for the Emergency Services and Rogaine 1 Day Trophies Emergency Services must plot the location (via accordingly sponsors group shields for the best 1st - Team C066 (890 Points) Grid References) of the checkpoints and decide team of each Emergency Service. Thus, Brian Rogaine 2 Day Trophies on a viable route that maximizes the points they Goodes on behalf of the Chair of the Board gave 1st - Team C090 (1830 Points) can achieve without incurring penalties for out the principal Awards. Harvey Black, Vice State Rescue Board Winners (Class 1 2 Day) returning late. President of the VRA also assisted. The last and Ambulance - C077 NSW Ambulance SCAT (1430 Points) Checkpoints are set in a random pattern over still pleasing award is the Attendance Cups. If Armed Services - Not Awarded Bushwalkers - Team C101 UTS Outdoors Adventure Club around 100 square kilometers – about third to you can attend five, ten or fifteen NavShields (1460 Points) half a map. All checkpoints have a two colour then I will, on behalf of BWRS, make a special Police - Not Awarded rogaine style flag with a unique pattern paper presentation for such dedication. The Award Rural Fire Services - Not Awarded punch for punching the team “Control Card” as Ceremony concluded with the presentation by SES - Team C016 Shoalhaven SES (1700 Points) proof of visiting that checkpoint. All Brian Goodes of an $8,000 sponsorship cheque! VRA - Not Awarded

Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Mountain map review Mount Kosciuszko Map 1:40k Jon Sutcliffe, SutMap, July 2005 extension for Mt Tate and Guthega River to ISBN 0 9757734 0 2 compensate. It also has a street map of Jindabyne. n my files I have a pre-war pre-SMA Lands In addition to the actual topo mapping, the Department sketch map of the Kossie sheet has lots of other information on it: travel Iregion (price 1/-), the MT Jagungal and info, weather report sources, a few notes on the Brassy Mountains sketch map at 2" = 1 mi accommodation, plus some of the usual safety (but it does not actually cover Mt K), a 1:63k sorts of things for the less experienced. (1" = 1 mi) topo, a 1:100k topo, the old Production of the map has been supported by a standard 1:50k topo map of Mt Kosciuszko, a number of commercial organisations in the CMA Snowy Kosciusko National Park map, and Jindabyne area, so there are some little adverts the new 1:25k topo/photo map. scattered around for these companies. One If all those are not enough, now I have a would have to say ‘all the usual suspects’ are SutMap topo map of the area too. Who are there. SutMap? They started off as a producer of The topo map part looks very similar to a orienteering and special purpose maps in the standard topo map (on which it is based), but UK, but the founder, Jon Sutcliffe, has recently with some extra surface information about rock moved to Australia. The difference between this areas and cliffs. It also has the current ski tows SutMap version and the standard CMA maps is access roads for them and current pole lines on that the Sutmap has extra surface detail on it it. I noticed that some of the pole lines and and also includes extra bits at the corners tracks I remembered were missing, but which ordinary topos miss out on, plus other apparently some of them disappeared in the details as well. It is printed on both sides, and fires of 2003 and have not been replaced. This on slightly heavier paper as well. is understandable. I gather the extra surface detail - rocky Some well-known tracks are not shown. I All that aside, who might be interested in areas, small cliffs and vegetation detail, was was told that the NPWS did not want them this SutMap? I think it would be a good choice added by the Jon Sutcliffe, the shown, and Jon complied. I think this was a for a newcomer to walking in the area as it owner/cartographer of Sutmap, from field very bad mistake, but one I blame on the NPWS does have lots of ancillary detail, and it covers surveys done in February and March of 2005. Area Management. Imagine that you are in a the area most people might start with. The Thus it reflects the post-fire state of the area. total whiteout somewhere on the Main Range map sells for $12.95 and can be obtained from The map covers an area similar to the (a common occurrence!), and come across a [email protected] or SutMap, 4/6 Gregory St, Kosciusko 1:50k topo map, plus the extension 4WD track. You look at the map, only to find Toowong, Qld, 4066. I imagine it could also be down to Cascade Hut. At the top edge it cuts nothing in the general area of where you think obtained in Jindabyne from ‘the usual off a bit of the 1:50k version, but has an you are. Now what? suspects’.

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d m r o View our properties or place a group booking enquiry @ yha.com.au 10 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Book reviews West Sydney Wild Alan Fairley & David Waterhouse ISBN 1 877058 38 6 his is slightly different from your usual quite a few personal and anecdotal comments, bushwalking guide book. It doesn't along with considerable history. Colour Tcover bushwalks but Nature Reserves, pictures illustrate both flora and fauna sections. all located around West Sydney. I didn't realise The authors give lots of comments about there are so many of them, or that some of what the average observer might see, and what them are so big. Not quite large enough for a extra might be seen with a bit more full days bushwalking, but some of them are persistence. Advice as to where to find the quite large enough for a short day out - with different treasures at each place is also given. binoculars. This is a paperback book just slightly larger The Reserves covered are Mirambena, than A5 in size: 150 x 225 x 8.5 mm, with a Bicentennial Park, Yeramba Lagoon, slightly glossy cover. There is a black & white Nurragingy, Cumberland Forest, Castelreagh, map for each reserve and many colour pictures Agnes Banks, Windsor Downs, Cattai, Pitt scattered throughout, and a good index at the Town, Scheyville and Bents Basin. back to all the flora and fauna mentioned. The sections for each Reserve include a The book can be obtained from Rosenberg Highlights, a quick guide to location, access, Publishing P/L at Box 6125 Dural Delivery area and facilities and walking tracks, then an Centre 2158 for $19.95 plus $2.95 post and Overview, a generous section on Plant packing, or from a good local bookshop maybe. Communities and another for Fauna. There are I have to add I know the publisher very well.

in the book. Colin’s outstanding efforts in bushwalking exploration and conservation have As It Happened resulted in many awards over the years, the Colin Watson most notable being the Order of Australia Medal in 1989 and the Friend of the Century by ne of the best known bushwalkers in His bushwalks on the South Coast of NSW the National Parks and Wildlife Foundation in NSW has written a very readable inspired him to preserve this magnificent coast 1999. Oautobiography. Colin Watson, a for future generations. Colin’s tremendous “As It Happened” is some 390 pages and is bushwalking Natural Treasure – has detailed efforts to get the Budawangs and Mimosa now available direct from the publishers, The his major bushwalking trips which are Rocks dedicated as National Parks are revealed Budawang Committee for $30 (posted) as a illustrated by photos and George Elliott’s maps. in the book as well as much of the political special offer for bushwalkers. The Committee’s His walking trips took him to all States of wrangling that was involved. address is 40 Alexandria Avenue, East Wood Australia and gave him local knowledge of His long years of conservation activity with 2122. Phone enquires 9874 2901. many of our best known National Parks. the National Parks Association are also detailed Wilf Hilder

How does it work? Vendors ask BGT to test items of gear. These items are advertised and Goochs Crater name correction qualified Testers send in applications. Usually The Editor misspelled the name of Goochs there are three copies of any item, so three Crater in the last issue. Apparently a whole Testers are chosen. They get the gear, test it and letter ‘e’ has been removed! report to BGT on it over 4 months, and then are Brian Fox advises: his is a blatant plug for allowed to keep the gear. Anyone can become a Reference: 82365. Placename: Goochs BackpackGearTest, a volunteer Tester. Crater. Torganisation dedicated to testing To become a ‘qualified Tester’ you have to Designation: Amphitheatre. bushwalking gear in the field. We want more first submit two ‘Owner Reviews’ (ORs) and Status: Assigned 8th October 2004 Testers to test FREE gear. Why? Read on. have them accepted. BGT reviews have to meet commercial: there are NO fees (and no www.backpackgeartest.org web site and the Previous Name: Gooches Crater advertising either). The aim is to really test BGT Editors will help you meet the standards. Description: An ampitheatre located on a walking gear and to report on that gear for the They will also help you with the test Reports. tributary of Wollangambe River 7.5 kms NE of benefit of other walkers. This is different from Why bother? Well, it isn’t the ‘free gear’ Clarence Trig. Station and 6 kms NW of magazine reviews: they usually focus on the really. It’s the fun of playing with the latest gear, Wollangambe Crater in the locality of Newnes good aspects of the gear because vendor testing it and discussing it with other testers. Plateau. A unique crater like swamp feature advertising is what keeps the magazines afloat. This isn’t really for people who just want free ringed by deeply undercut pagodas roughly You never see comments like ‘this gear is crap’ in gear; it’s for gear freaks. But you do end up with oval in shape approx. 105 m long by 65 m wide the magazines; you do see them at BGT. These some cute bits of gear. at the northern end narrowing to approx. 35 m reviews can be read by anyone at all around the Why this notice? Because BGT needs more at the southern end. The northern end slopes world, for free. Check the web site for yourself. gear Testers. We have gear in plenty, but we steeply and evenly to the ridge top above the lack enough Testers. crater. The sides are formed by the vertical You can find out more walls of deeply undercut pagodas varying from by going to www. 20-30 m high. The southern end is formed by backpackgeartest.org what appears to be the remains of a collapsed and following the pagoda. The swamp itself has typical sedge URLs. We use Yahoo vegetation and associated plant communities. Groups for a lot of the Origin: Named in memory of Nicholas Andrew day-to-day business. Gooch (dob 28.3.1947 - dod 18.7.2003)who Roger Caffin, originally discovered the feature in 1978. The BGT Tester and name has become widely known by the Review Editor bushwalking fraternity Australia wide.

Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

The bus to Cerro Castillo, the border crossing into Argentina, finally arrived. More waiting. Memoirs of Patagonia After 4 hours we walked across the border to a We had a really long 24km walk yesterday. minibus that had no luggage space. The driver an Andean Adventure Refugio Grey to Refugio Cuernos, which took 8 just managed to cram our packs under the seat. Linda Broschofsky hours. Walking from Pehoe towards the Valley of The journey to El Calafate took 5 hours, on a ( Bankstown Bushwalking Club) Frances you see the cuernos (horns). We got in gravel road…………….. )*()1&3'03."/$&.*$30-*5&Î5)&3."-6/%&38&"3 )*()1&3'03."/$&53"7&- at about 6pm. This Refugio is much bigger and We came to see Los Glaciares NP and the uring 2004, I loaded my pack and took sits on Lago Nordenskjold. The Cuernos Del Moreno glacier but that’s another chapter in my 53"7&-065%003$-05)*/( '03"--$0/%*5*0/4 )*,*/(53&,,*/(40$,4 off on a 4 month jaunt around the Paine tower above. Condors fly between them, sojourn around the world! Dworld, what I call my Spanish gliding on thermals. Immersion trip. I wanted to be more fluent in We had a fantastic dinner last night of the Spanish language so I planned my trip so salmon, rice and soup then a rasper berry that I would only visit Spanish speaking moosey thing. After a leisurely morning we i"6453"-*"/."%&w countries, that way immersing myself in the decided to take a chance on the weather and language. walk up the Valle de Frances. We took less time One of the most spectacular, wildest and backtracking without packs on. The climb up the .*$30-*5&Î 10-:1301:-&/& 953&.& scenic places I have seen is Torres Del Paine NP valley was steady but the wind was so cyclonic. $0.#*1"/54 5)&3."-4 )*,&3 in southern Chile. The park gets its’ name from At times it was difficult to walk. We walked • Zip off pant • Double jersey knit • Technical hiking sock three very distinct vertical granite pillars- the halfway up which had good views of the converts to shorts • Double sewn flat seams • Sock sculpts around Torres or towers, reaching almost 3000 m in cuernos. The Rio del Frances run down the • UV 50+ Rating • Raglan cut sleeves lower leg height. Paine was the explorer who discovered valley and on the other side is a massive • Resists pilling, • 100% Schoeller • Flat toe seam shrinking & fading Polypropylene • Wide range of the area. The park has a very good system of mountain with a glacier on its side. Cerro • 3 zipped security pockets • Long Sleeve & T-Tops colours available trails and Refugio’s nicely spaced within a days Grande Paine and the Glacier Del Frances! • Available in both • Long Johns, Skivvies & • Asymmetrically designed walk apart or alternatively you can camp. We Refugio Chileno 23/1/04 men’s & ladies Singlets for exact fitting • Colours: Bone, Navy • Also available • Vapour Control System in took the soft option and had full board in the I can see the Torres from the window, even in kid’s sizes high perspiration zones Refugio’s, therefore eliminating the need to carry though they are enshrouded by cloud. We made RRP $149.95 camping equipment and food. (And slept in nice it in about 5 hours yesterday. Las Cuernos- RRP $49.95 RRP $31.95 warm beds instead of filling the tents with rocks, Chileno. The 3 hour walk along the lake was body and gear to hold it down when the cyclonic simple but the winds were gale force and once winds crept up at night. Quite often we knocked me off my feet and I fell into a bush. witnessed the demolished campsites the next How hard was it to get out of the bush with a .*$30-*5&Î -*()5.&3*/0 ,04$*64;,0 morning with very unhappy and tired trekkers full pack while laughing?? At least it was sunny. 4)0354-&&7&4)*35 800-5)&3."-4 trying to cook breakfast in almost impossible We had heard about this short cut up to Chileno, conditions.) which we ended up taking, it was steep and all • Exceptionally • 100% superfine • Outstanding all quick drying merino wool purpose sock Refugio Grey 18/1/04 uphill but it did save us an hour. This Refugio is • UV 50+ Rating • 170 gsm weight • 80% Wool / 20% Nylon There are icebergs floating in the lake outside really nice, nestled in a valley, beside a river • Resists pilling, • Double sewn flat • Full terry cushioning the window. I’m at Lago Grey, we walked in with the Torres looming in the background. It’s Valley de Frances and Cuernos shrinking & fading seams • Flat toe seam • Wide range of • Raglan cut sleeves • Also available in a today. The scenery is stunning, the wind is calm not as windy either. The colours available • Long Sleeve & lo-cut and the sun shone for us. I’m feeling lucky! The food here is good too, • Available in both T-Tops • Wide range of colours walk took 3 and a half – 4 hours, depending on baked salmon, soup and men’s & ladies • Ladies-cut Long available • Also available in Johns how long you stop to admire the views. The a fruit tart but nothing long sleeve • Sleeveless tops RRP $18.95 Refugio is set amongst the trees, right on Lago beats the apple filled Grey. It’s really pretty. We have our own room pancake we had at RRP $109.95 RRP $59.95 and just had a great meal. It cools off as the sun Cuernos. goes down. Now I just feel weary. I want a coffee The walk up to the and will soon be ready for bed. mirador only took about The bus from Puerto Natales took about 2 one and a half hours, .*$30-*5&Î %605)&3. .&3*/0'-&&$& hours and we were dropped off at Guadaria the last part up $"3(04)0354 5)&3."-4 Pehoe where we caught the catamaran to boulders. The Torres are • 2 hand warmer pockets • Double jersey knit • Used by Aust. Refugio Pehoe, and then walked. awesome. Granite • 2 zipped security pockets • Inside layer- Antarctic Division Refugio Grey 19/1/04 towers rising up out of • 2 capacious cargo pockets Polypropylene • Used by Aust. Defence • Odour & soil resistant • Outer layer- Personnel The weather wasn’t very nice today. Rainy bedrock. A glacial lake is • Multifilament Nylon merino wool • 83% Aust. Merino Wool and windy, very different to yesterday. Breakfast at their base. It’s been a • Colours: Bone, • 200 gsm weight • Full terry cushioning was OK, toast, ham, cheese, even porridge plus a relaxing day. We got Navy, Black • Double sewn • Flat toe seam choice of tea/ coffee and hot chocolate. Packed back about 2:30pm. flat seams • Colour: Grey/Navy Marle RRP $94.95 • Raglan cut sleeves lunch was good too, ham, cheese and lettuce El Calafate, • Long Sleeve, RRP $16.95 roll, orange, orange juice, water, chocolate bar, Argentina 25/1/04 T-Tops & L/Johns halva, biscuits. Lots of goodies! El Calafate could be We walked up to the mirador where there are the sister town to Banff. RRP $79.95 lots of icebergs in a small bay. If you walk There are so many further along the trail for about an hour you get similarities. It’s great to to see the glacier up close. We sat there for ages be in civilisation again, .*$30-*5&Î 163&.&3*/0 8*$,%3: waiting for chunks to break off and they did! after 7 days in the park. 36((&%4)0354 800-5)&3."-4 -*/&34 Decided to spend the afternoon inside, We walked down • Perfect for bushwalking • 100% merino wool • Perfect for keeping the because the weather got worse before slightly from Chileno to Torres • Elasticised waist (19 micron) foot warm & dry & drawcord • 230 gsm weight • 85% Polypropylene improving. Then went for another short walk, up which took one and a • Drain mesh in pockets • Double sewn • Available in short, long & to the glacier. half hours. The Torres • Light & quick drying flat seams padded styles On our walk after lunch we saw some had a light dusting of • Colours: Navy, • Raglan cut sleeves • Flat toe seam Cinnamon, Balsam • Long Sleeve & T-Tops • Colours: Navy, Black, Grey beautiful woodpeckers. Totally black, except for snow on each peak, so • Ladies-cut Long Johns Marle the male who had a striking bright red head. that was special! RRP $79.95 They really were very beautiful. We had to wait for a RRP $71.95 RRP From $16.95 Refugio Cuernos 21/1/04 few hours for our The gods have smiled upon us again. We transfer to Laguna have been able to see everything we wanted Amarga. Los Torres because the weather has been clear. The wind is Refugio was spotless; really strong, cyclonic and I thought it would lift we had a leisurely lunch For your nearest stockist: Phone: (03) 9416 7211 the roof last night. in their dining room. Email: [email protected] Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 13 To order online go to: www.wildernesswear.com.au Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Best Brands Best Range Best Advice The Bushwalkers’ War Memorial Gear For Private Sale at Splendour Rock decision was made in 1947 to erect a bushwalkers’ war memorial at Splendour Rock in If you have more gear than you the Wild Dog Mountains off Narrowneck. This is recorded in the following paragraphs need but don't want to throw it Afrom The Bushwalker magazine of December, 1947: out, advertise it here. No charge “Plans for the memorial to bush walkers who gave their lives in World War Two have been for club members. accepted by Federation and a Committee consisting of the President, Tom Moppett and Brian

Descriptions should be short but Miller Taryn / MVP Photo: Harvey (both of S.B.W.), has been entrusted with their completion. complete. No guarantees are The proposal to choose and name a suitable peak in the Gangerang Region has had to be abandoned as all peaks worthy of such high dedication already carry familiar name. The offered by The Bushwalker for any alternative accepted is to affix a brass plate with bold, raised lettering, to Splendour Rock, that of the gear: that's between the magnificent view-point at the Southern end of Mount Dingo. Here, where the eye is drawn to the buyer and seller. glory of Kanangra Walls, surely the spiritual home of bush walkers, is a spot beloved of many of those whom we seek to honour.” The plan was carried out & at sunrise, on Anzac Day, 1948, the simple bronze plaque Tatonka Bushwalker pack $100 ad1 commemorating the memory of Bushwalkers who fell in World War II was unveiled at Splendour 2-compartment internal frame pack, about Cameron Barrie crossing the Snowy River en route to Blue Lake. Lake. Blue to route en River Snowy the crossing Barrie Cameron Rock, Mount Dingo, in the heart of the Wild Dog Mountains by Paddy Pallin in the presence of the 70-80 litre, waterproof Cordura body, used President Stanley Cottier and 80 - 90 Bushwalkers. a few times, in very good condition. Suit “Those familiar landmarks - Mt Cloudmaker, the Gangerang Range, Mt Paralyser and Mt fairly big trips. Gouougang - a spiritual home of the Bushwalkers - all lie within our gaze from this wonderful viewpoint. We could wonder how often had our fallen comrades gazed in happiness upon this Fairydown sleeping bag $200 ad1 scene that we still enjoy? Suit winter trips down to -20 C, good Upon this rock, as sunrise lit the cliffs they loved so well, was placed a permanent record that condition, high loft, centre 3/4 zip, hood, we honoured those known & unknown Bushwalkers, who gave their lives for our freedom. And, medium length. their splendour shall never fade!!” Synthetic sleeping bag $50 ad1 Zip right around, opens into quilt. Suit car Bushwalkers known to have fallen in World War II camping or novice walker for warm BRUCE ELDER Coast & Mountain Walkers R.A.N. conditions. KENNETH GRENFELL Rucksack Club R.A.A.F . REG. HEWITT Sydney Bush Walkers A.I.F . Scarpa Lady Trek boot $150 ad2 GEORGE LODER Trampers Club R.A.A.F . Size 37, tread as new, stitching perfect, JAMES McCORMACK Y.M.C.A. Ramblers R.A.A.F. worn on ~12 day walks - leather slightly GORDON MANNELL Sydney Bush Walkers R.A.A.F . sandstone scuffed. MAC NICHOLS Y.M.C.A. Ramblers A.I.F. Sydney 491 Kent Street (02) 9264 5888 Chatswood 72 Archer Street (02) 9419 6955 ARNOLD RAY Coast & Mountain Walkers R.A.A.F. Magellan 2000 XL GPS $60 (W) CHARLES ROBERTS Coast & Mountain Walkers A.I.F. 9350 5857 (H) 9523 7161 email: [email protected] web: www.mountainequipment.com NORMAN SAILL Sydney Bush Walkers R.A.A.F. Perfect condition, hardly used. Datums GORDON SMITH Sydney Bush Walkers A.I.F. suitable for series 2 & 3 topo. maps, GORDON TOWNSEND Coast &. Mountain Walkers R.A. A. F . includes user manual. JACK WALL Campfire Club R.A.A.F . Black Wolf Grand Teton LEST WE FORGET 65 L Travelpack $160 ad2 Bought for hostel tour of Europe in 2000. Each Anzac Day at dawn a commemoration is conducted Proceeds to Confederation in memory of at Splendour Rock, currently by Nepean Bushwalkers. Prudence Tucker, former Confederation Admin Officer. Margaret Covi, President, Confederation For items under 'ad1' & 'ad3' contact [email protected] For items under 'ad2' contact Shooting Kangaroos in [email protected] From the Blue Mountains National Park [We reproduce here a letter from NPWS to a club member who mail bag. . . reported finding a severed kangaroo head at the Galong Ck The Bushwalker reserves the bridge, Megalong Valley. Spot lights had been seen the right to edit or refuse any previous night, and a picture of the severed head was sent to the NPWS. - Ed] advertisements. Commercial Knights Deck - the name advertisements are not accepted. Send [We welcome short contributions about interesting place Dear Michael ads with contact details to names - Ed.] Thank you for your report concerning the shooting of [email protected] Walking kangaroos in the park. We have asked several I was most interested to read Michael Keats article on neighbours who have not reported hearing anything. the Wild Dog Mountains in the last issue. Knights However, the residences are a considerable distance Deck and Knights Pups were named by Miles Dumphy away. Journey after my grandfather Wilfred “Wif” Knight (1883- This type of activity is illegal in all National Parks and 1967). Wif was a foundation member of Sydney land holders on private land can only shoot kangaroos Bushwalkers and spent much time wandering through with a permit. the Blue Mountains. In the late 1930's he spent the We encourage people witnessing any illegal activity to Outfitters Sydney winters camped on the beach at Cape report the incidents to the NPWS preferably with Tribulation (FNQ) and on one of these trips managed supporting evidence such as vehicle registration. to get to Cape York. I can remember my grand mother The NPWS will increase patrols in the area and telling me that she awoke one night to find him monitor for evidence of similar activity continuing. throwing coconuts at a crocodile who was trying to Please feel free to contact me in the Upper Mountains get into their camp area. Area Office at Blackheath on 4787 3109 if you wish to I would be interested to hear from anyone who has discuss the matter further. any stories or information about Wif’s early Yours faithfully bushwalking exploits. 447 Kent Street Richard Kingswood, Greg Knight, [email protected] Area Manager, Upper Mountains Area Sydney NSW 2000 t: 02 9261 3435 14 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 5, Spring 2005 f: 02 9264 2645 e: [email protected]

Hiking in the Chilime Valley on the border of Nepal and Tibet. Photo: Robin Boustead Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Best Brands Best Range Best Advice The Bushwalkers’ War Memorial Gear For Private Sale at Splendour Rock decision was made in 1947 to erect a bushwalkers’ war memorial at Splendour Rock in If you have more gear than you the Wild Dog Mountains off Narrowneck. This is recorded in the following paragraphs need but don't want to throw it Afrom The Bushwalker magazine of December, 1947: out, advertise it here. No charge “Plans for the memorial to bush walkers who gave their lives in World War Two have been for club members. accepted by Federation and a Committee consisting of the President, Tom Moppett and Brian

Hiking in the Chilime Valley on the border of Nepal and Tibet. Photo: Robin Boustead