FOOD + WINE

BaconIsMagic.ca WELCOME TO THE FRIENDLIEST WINE COUNTRY IN THE WORLD THIS IS HOME.

NOVA SCOTIA’S APPELLATION WINE An agricultural area, the Annapolis Valley has the same climate as the Champagne region in France and makes excellent traditional method . It also has its own appellation wine, Tidal Bay, which you can only find in . Launched in 2012, the regions wineries were able to agree on what the expression of Nova Scotia appellation wine should be. Tidal Bay reflects the cool climate region and pairs well with traditional Nova Scotian food. All Tidal Bays must abide by a set of standards and are approved each year by an independent blind tasting panel. The standards include: Grapes must be 100 percent grown in Nova Scotia, use a combination of the approved grape varieties, must reflect distinct Nova Scotian flavour profile: lively fresh green fruit, dynamic acidity and characteristic minerality and be low in alcohol at no more than 11%. Currently, 12 Nova Scotia wineries are making Tidal Bay. Wineries are able to express their own unique vision for Tidal Bay, within a spectrum. AVONDALE SKY WINERY

Avondale Sky is in the former St.Matthew’s church, built in 1837. Winemaker Ben Swetnam spent time in Germany and returned to to open Avondale Sky Winery. Speak- ing to him you get the im- mediate sense that he’s both modest and earnest. His off-dry style that is the most popular with customers. Although he assures that they always have a classic Nova Scotian balance of acidity. Winemaker Favourite: Blanc de Noir Extra Brut Reserve Avondale Sky 80 Avondale Cross Rd Newport, Nova Scotia L’ACADIE VINEYARDS THE FIRST CERTIFIED ORGANIC VINEYARD IN THE REGION Winemaker Bruce Ewert not only owns produce traditional method sparkling the winery but his family live on the land. wine (aka Champagne). Not only has it Originally from British Columbia, he has won national and international awards in made wine all over Canada and finally France, but it inspired other Nova Scotia settled in Nova Scotia. wineries that they could do it as well. L’Acadie Vineyards was the first to

L’Acadie Vineyards 310 Slayter Rd, Gaspereau RR1, Wolfville, Nova Scotia BENJAMIN BRIDGE

Focusing on sparkling wine, Benjamin Bridge is the largest producer of wine in the Annapolis Valley. A certified organic winery, do not expect to find that certification on the labeling or boastfully on their website. Nor do they find it necessary to chase wine competition accolades; instead, they let the wines speak for themselves. I love that they also sell their popular Nova 7 and Pet Nat by the can, it shows that they can be serious, but not stuffy, in their approach to wine. Winemaker’s Favourite: Brut 2013

Benjamin Bridge 1966 White Rock Rd, Wolfville, Nova Scotia BLOMIDON ESTATE

Located in Canning, it has a gorgeous view of the Minas Ba- sin from its patio.

Winemaker Simon Rafuse says they’ve always favoured a drier style of Tidal Bay, mostly because “that’s what we like to drink!”

It’s a perfect patio wine with a blend of grapes (L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, NY Muscat) to craft a crisp, citrusy wine that’s lighter in alcohol and really fresh on the palate.

Winemakers Favourite: 2011 Brut Réserve. Blomidon Estate 10318 NS-221 Canning, Nova Scotia RESTAURANTS

DOMAINE DE GRAND PRE

The oldest winery in Nova Scotia is not so old as it’s only been a vineyard since 1976. It changed ownership for the third time in the mid-90s and is now owned by Hanspeter Stutz.

It’s another family-owned winery where members are hands-on, from his daughter Beatrice manag- ing the tasting room to his son-in- law as the winery chef.

Winemaker Jürg Stutz explained that his approach to Tidal Bay is to look at the signature aromatic component (Muscat, Ortega), the acidity (Vidal, Seyval), but also at the overall volumes that are available from each variety.

Consistency is important and Stutz has used the same five grape vari- eties since the first vintage.

Winemaker’s Favourite:

Domaine de Grand Pré 1611 Highway 1 Grand Pré, Nova Scotia GASPEREAU VINEYARDS Three kilometers from Wolfville, it’s in the heart of the gorgeous Gaspereau Valley. The vibe here is relaxed and friendly. The vineside patio menu is kid-friendly with pizza, sandwiches and gigantic decadent desserts. Meeting winemaker Gina Haverstock it’s apparent that she’s serious about wine, but is also incredibly approachable. She’s producing stellar but also introducing guests to new wine only available in the winery, like White Rock, which is an experimental blend of seven, predominantly estate-grown varietals.

Gaspereau Vineyards 2239 White Rock Rd Wolfville, Nova Scotia LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE

The Lightfoot family have farmed on the land for eight generations and were initially grape growers for other vineyards. They took the plunge and started making wine to much acclaim. The expression of Tidal Bay has no Muscat, and is very popular. The tasting room is a modern, sleek interpretation of a loft barn with a long tasting bar, and comfortable couches to relax. Outside there is a number of seating options from picnic tables at the entrance to the vineyard to Adirondack chairs around an outdoor fireplace. The view of is spectacular. Not only is Lightfoot & Wolfville a certified organic winery using biodynamic agriculture practices in their vineyard. But also they are growing vegetables for the patio restaurant, which offers a kids menu, pizza and main Lightfoot & Wolfville 642A Johnson St, Victoria dishes. 11143 Trail Wolfville, Nova Scotia LUCKETT VINEYARDS The most popular Nova Scotia winery, it’s also one of the larger producers in the Annapolis Valley. Family-owned and operated, not just in name. You’ll see family on site working. With a British heritage there are lots of cute touches like the British phone box in the vineyard with free phone calls to anywhere in North America. The signature house wine is also called phone box red.

Clive’s Classic Lounge at the Chateau Laurier 450 Swift St, Victoria (250) 361-1940 PLANTER’S RIDGE Its name reflects the region, and the tasting room is a refurbished 150 year old barn. Wine at Planter’s Ridge is a bit different than other wine in the Annapolis Valley. Winemaker John McLarty explains Planter’s Ridge wine is more “international Old World style, keeping the acidity lower so you don’t have to have a lot of residual sugar to balance the wine. A prime example is Tidal Bay, our Tidal Bay is and has always been the lowest residual Tidal Bay in the province.” Planter’s Ridge Winery 1441 Church St, Port Williams, Nova Scotia MERCATOR One of the newest vineyards in Nova Scotia, it is quietly making a name for itself as the most stylish farmhouse you’ll ever visit. Mercator believes in the connection between the farm and the wine. Staff are knowledgeable, they’ll teach you about the wine without being tedious. Oenophiles love this spot for their old school techniques like lee stirring that they try not to intervene so there’s native yeast/ spontaneous fermentation. They do some apassimento style and carbonic maceration to bring out the best in the fruit.

Mercator Vineyards 88 Dyke Rd, Wolfville, Nova Scotia SAINTE- FAMILLE The second oldest winery in Nova Scotia, it’s a very popular spot for weddings and it’s easy to see why as it’s so scenic in Falmouth. The winery is family owned and all of the wines are from Nova Scotia grapes with 95% are grown at the vineyard. And for exciting news they have a new winemaker from Portugal. He previously worked in Ontario and has decided to now take on Nova Scotia. A Portuguese winemaker’s take on could be a very interesting perspective.

Sainte-Famille Wines 511 Dudley Park Lane Falmouth, Nova Scotia WHERE TO EAT IN THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY

Nova Scotia doesn’t really have a fine dining culture. Some Halifax restaurants have world class food, but it is usually in a comfortable atmosphere. In some ways it is very similar to Italy in that you can put your best jeans on and not feel out of place. Here are my favourite places to eat in the Annapolis Valley. ESSENTIAL EATS A small region with lots of interesting food, have a look for these delicacies. Unfamiliar with some of them - check out this post which explains each.

• Lobster Dinner • and Doughboys • Brown bread • Haskap Berries • Mackerel • Fiddleheads • Lobster Roll • Red and Green Pepper Jelly • Fat Archies Cookies • Scalloped Potatoes and Ham • Digby Scallops • Foraged Food • Wild Blueberries • Fast Food Favourites • Molasses Sandwich • County Pizza • Summer Savory • Brothers Pepperoni • Lunenburg Pudding • The Lunenburger • Lunenburg Sausage • Donair Egg Roll • Tancook Sauerkraut • Sweet Maria Burger • Quahog Clams • Fried Chicken • Blueberry Soup • The Chickenburger • Smoked Eel • Pizza at Pizza Corner • Haddock • Peanut Butter Burger • Storm Chips • Fries from Bud the Spud • Donair • Jimmy Dogs • Boiled Dinner • with Donair Sauce • Mustard Pickles • Smelts • Fish and Chips • Dulse Desserts + Sweets • Creamed Lobster on Toast • Strawberry Shortcake • Smoked Fish with Egg Sauce • Blueberry Grunt • Solomon Gundy • Egg Tarts • Digby Chicken • Coconut Cream Cake • Mussels • Moon Mist Ice Cream • Haddie Bits and Fries • Oat Cakes • Snow Crab • Fruit Pie • Seafood Chowder • Privateer’s Bounty Ice Cream • Fish Cakes • Apple Crisp or Pie • Periwinkles • Barley Toys • Dragon’s Breath Cheese • Chicken Bones • Tourtiere – Pies • Strawberry Freezer Jam • Green Tomato Chow Chow • Creamed Peas on Toast Drinks • Oysters • Tidal Bay Wine • Hodge Podge • Beep • Chicken • Cider • Tea HOW TO SPEND A DAY

BUDGET FAMILY SPLURGE Start at Luckett Vineyards, With Maritime hospitality, Stop in at Avondale Sky which has a very reasonable you can really take children Winery for a tasting and tasting fee:$12 to try 5 from anywhere. lunch. the core selection of reds, whites or rosé OR three So you shouldn’t feel that One of my absolute favour- premium collection of reds, you need to eliminate any ite restaurants in Nova Sco- whites or specialty dessert Nova Scotia wineries or tia. I loved their cherry to- wines. restaurants because you’re mato salad so much I asked traveling with children. for the recipe. Enjoy a romantic picnic lunch for two for $25 at Start with a wine tasting at Tasting at L’Acadie Vine- Mercator Vineyards. If it’s Lightfoot and Wolfville and yards for their traditional the weekend they also offer stay for lunch. They offer method sparkling. This is the a great sparkling weekend a separate kids menu and place to splurge. special. have a pizza oven. Pop into Benjamin Bridge Domaine de Grand Pre Head over the Luckett Vine- for more sparkling and be is only a 23 minute walk yard for a tasting. Kids love sure to try the Pet Nat. (says Google Maps) from the red British phone booth Mercator. The regular tast- and can make a call to any- Head over to Dinner at ing, which includes 5 wines where in North America Le Caveau at Domaine de is only $8. A 5oz class of Grand Pre. If the weather is wine on the wine shop deck Dinner at Gaspereau warm dine under the pergo- is $6 – it’s a steal. Vineyard a laid back atmo- la . sphere and lots of space for Dinner at Evangeline Inn – kids to roam. If you’re there on a Tuesday this cafe is a local favourite, they also have martini night, it is licensed and also serves The vine side patio has a which is popular with locals. Nova Scotia wine. Do not menu that includes pizza, skip the dessert as locals the best chicken sandwich come here specifically for I’ve ever eaten and gigantic the seasonal pie. desserts.

Some nights there is also live music so call ahead. GASPEREAU VINEYARDS VINESIDE PATIO

Over the years we’ve popped in here many times. They have interesting pizzas, lobster sliders and a smoked chicken sandwich that changed my mind about ordering chicken . Late afternoon it’s a relaxing spot in the country to have a glass of wine and the slices of cheesecake are big enough for 2 or 3 people.

Gaspereau Vineyards 2239 White Rock Rd Wolfville, Nova Scotia ED’S TAKE OUT

Without a doubt, I would base my entire reputation by claiming that family-owned Ed’s Take Out in Digby has the best scallops I’ve ever eaten. My mother loves scallops and so we’re often on the hunt for the best. But no one has beaten Ed’s. Ed’s is usually so crowded with locals that indoor seating is taken. You often have to grab any free seat at the outdoor picnic tables. It’s cash only and the portions are so large it’s best to share.

Ed’s Take Out Cash only. 452 NS-303 Digby, Nova Scotia Trust advice of locals to go out of the way up a steep mountain to eat here. The kitschy Maritime decor is cute, and the service is very friendly. It’s worth the detour as everything here is so popular, from the East Coast chowder to the local seafood plates. They get seafood directly from fishermen every morning. Portion sizes are large so it’s best to share. THE CROW’S The Crow’s Nest 3931 Shore Road West NEST Granville Ferry, Nova Scotia Located in Luckett Vineyard it has an AMAZING view of Cape Blomidon. Sandwiches here are solid – and enough to split for an afternoon snack. The chowder here gets high reviews (mine included). But what really blew me away was the quality of the steak and mushroom pie

CRUSH PAD Crush Pad Bistro 1293 Grand Pré Rd BISTRO Wolfville, Nova Scotia CRYSTANY’S BRASSERIE NOVA SCOTIA’S FIRST CERTIFIED GLUTEN-FREE RESTAURANTS

You probably wouldn’t notice your meal lacked gluten unless someone told you. They have all of the Maritime favourites of fish and chips, killer chowder and great burgers.

You MUST sit out on the rooftop patio. It looks out onto a large stretch of farmland with birds chirping and is so tranquil. With lots of local draught on tap, you could easily spend the afternoon here.

Crystany’s Brasserie 9848 Main Street Canning, Nova Scotia STIRLING’S Most visitors miss places like Evangeline Cafe. Perhaps that’s because locals call it Stirlings. It’s been owned by the Stirling family since the 1940s so it makes sense – except that the few tourists that hear about it end up down the road at Stirling Farm Market. There’s a full menu of soups, sandwiches, burg- ers and chowder but locals come here for the pie. It started as a pie shop and it continues to woo dessert haters like me. It’s a seasonal spot (May-October) and many locals are “pie chasers” stopping in as each new season starts from rhubarb through the final berries of the season.

Stirling’s 11668 Nova Scotia Trunk 1 Grand Pré, Nova Scotia LE CAVEAU

The restaurant at Domaine de Grand Pré winery. If the weather is good, the outdoor seating at the pergola is one of my favourites. But otherwise eating inside is also lovely. Portions here are filling and hearty so come with an appetite. Some of the interesting items are the seafood chowder, which is a bit different than what you’ll see elsewhere as it’s a play on Spain’s ajo blanco which is a chilled almond soup. It’s so popular Chef Jason Lynch hasn’t been able to remove it from the menu for years. I can see why, paired with a glass of Ortega, it’s the perfect lunch. The restaurant works with small local producers and you’ll find things here you can’t elsewhere like and local lamb. They have a charcuterie program and make their own products for sale. Stop at the tasting room first and ask to try the white hot sauce.

Le Caveau 11611 Highway 1 Grand Pré, Nova Scotia Outside of Halifax restaurants there aren’t a lot of dedicated vegan or vegetarian restaurants in Nova Scotia. It’s not that we don’t love vegetables, or eat tons at home. We are an agricultural region after all. But we also love our seafood and local meat. Wolfville is one of the best spots for vegans and vegetarians as it serves the university population. Rolled Oat Cafe isn’t exclusively plant-based but they have far more options than anywhere else around.

The Rolled Oat 402 Main Street Wolfville, Nova Scotia CHURCH BREWING I’M A BELIEVER One of the newest Nova Scotia restaurants, it’s located in the quaint university town of Wolfville. Centrally located it uses the former St.Andrews United church built in 1914. It has kept most of the original decor, including the psalm boards high on the walls, which now list the beer and cider available each day. Food is typical pub-style but done really well. Don’t expect big portions to overcompensate for poor quality. And the beer is as interesting as the interior. Church Brewing focuses on traditional Belgian and classic European style beer. Expect interesting options like a Belgian White IPA that is described as orange/mango/spicy and an Enkel that is lemongrass/effervescent/ dandelion.

Church Brewing 329 Main Street Wolfville, Nova Scotia UNION STREET A great spot for local food in Berwick, everything here is home cooked and locally sourced. Its menu also has dishes suitable for vegetarians and vegans like the Far East Popcorn Cauliflower and the Ginger Peanut Noodles, which you can have with tofu, chicken or shrimp.

Union Street 183 Commercial Street Berwick, Nova Scotia BENT RIDGE CUCINA

One of the most scenic views. It looks across from the Martock ski hill, an area I haven’t been to for decades. They make great pizza, and while they aren’t producing Tidal Bay, they do make good Nova Scotia wine. If you’re driving from Halifax this is a great stop on the way for a quick bite and a gorgeous view.

Bent Ridge Winery 560 Johnson St, Victoria (250) 590-9680 LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE

One of the most stunning wineries in Nova Scotia, the restaurant is outside under a tent in the vineyard. The menu here is family friendly with a kid’s menu and also pizza from their outdoor wood fired oven. The garden salad, is from the organic vegetable garden on property and they have lots of hearty options as well.

Lightfoot & Wolfville 11143 Wolfville, Nova Scotia D’VINE MORSELS ocated inside Avondale Skiy Winery, this spot doesn’t have lobster but it’s still one of my L favourite restaurants in Nova Scotia. Chef Justin Floyd highlights local ingredients without being heavy handed. It just lets local produce sing.

You can dine inside or out on the patio. The winery is located in a former church from the mid-1800s that was floated down a river to be resurrected as a winery.

Avondale Sky Winery 80 Avondale Cross Rd, Newport, Nova Scotia HALLS HARBOUR LOBSTER POUND

The only time I’ve ever eaten a lobster lobster quesadilla. dinner in a restaurant has been at the Halls Yet I can’t help but suggest sticking to the Harbour Lobster Pound. original steamed lobster dinner. You choose Yes it’s more expensive than making it what sides you want and what size lobster. at home, but Halls Harbour is a working harbour that’s worth a visit. There’s nothing but seafood here. But there Lobster Pound lots of innovations like lobster and 1157 W Halls Harbour Road Centreville, Nova Scotia JONNY’S COOKHOUSE Another local favourite, it’s an ice cream bar and diner-style restaurant with so many burgers, and hotdog toppings your head will spin. Look for the Sweet Maria burger with grilled pineapple, crispy bacon, sweet chili sauce and mayo. If that’s not enough for you, order the Jerry Burger, which includes another patty. Jonny’s uses fresh beef from Meadowbrook that is ground in- house and served on buns that is made fresh daily.

Jonny’s Cookhouse 4287 Evangeline Trail Berwick, Nova Scotia FLYING APRON INN AND COOKERY Although I have not been to this restaurant I did eat Chef Chris Velden’s food at Burntcoat Head Park while dining on the ocean floor. His restaurant is often mentioned in the Annapolis Valley and also offers cooking classes at the Inn.

Flying Apron 3 Summerville Wharf Rd Summerville, Nova Scotia THE NOODLE GUY

A LOCAL FAVOURITE PASTA SPOT

Originally a noodle store to stop in and buy pasta. Years ago my mother and I stopped in thinking we could eat there. When we realized we couldn’t the owner told us to go ahead and sit down, he’d make it for us. It was ravioli with caramelized onion and quark cheese from local Fox Hill. We were hooked. He’s since opened a restaurant in Port Williams. The menu usually includes five pastas daily but the ravioli and soba pasta, which is gluten-free, are always in high demand. The Noodle Guy 964 NS-358 Port Williams, Nova Scotia ALSO CHECK OUT

RECOMMENDATIONS FROM PEOPLE I TRUST

THE NAKED CREPE If you’re heading to Wolfville, there’s no doubt a local will mention the Naked Crepe. This is a beloved restaurant, known for its affordable options for sweet and savoury crepes.

FOUNDER’S HOUSE A new restaurants in many are saying is the best in Nova Scotia.

NIPPERS BRITISH FISH + CHIPS We don’t have many food trucks in Nova Scotia other than the iconic Bud the Spud in Halifax on Spring Garden Road. But the ones we have are great and this is a local Valley favourite. Nippers moves around so it’s best to check out its Facebook page where it announces the location each week. THANKS FOR READING!

his guide was created in Tpartnership with Tourism Nova Scotia. It was a highlight of my career to share the best of where I grew up. Want more inspiration? Watch my videos at Youtube.com/Ayngelina If you found it useful please let me know: @Ayngelina on Instagram Facebook.com/ BaconIsMagic Or send me a note at [email protected] Keep life delicious, Ayngelina

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