“[…] E che pensieri immensi, FEASR che dolci sogni mi spirò la vista Fondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europa investe nelle zone rurali di quel lontano mar, quei monti azzurri”
Giacomo Leopardi, Le Ricordanze, [19-21]
Comune Comune Comune Comune Comune di Gualdo di Monte di Penna di Sant’Angelo di Sarnano San Martino San Giovanni in Pontano
l ’Anello dei Crinali FEASR Fondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europa investe nelle zone rurali
Comune Comune Comune Comune Comune di Gualdo di Monte di Penna di Sant’Angelo di Sarnano San Martino San Giovanni in Pontano
PSL SIBILLA- Bando Misura 4.1.3.2. Incentivazione di attività turistiche- Sot- tomisura 4.1.3.2.c. Incentivazione di attività turistiche. Sviluppo di Attività di servizio turistico quali le guide naturalistiche, storicoculturali, enoga- stronomiche, escursionistiche e o cicloturistiche (c3)- Progetto ANELLO DEI CRINALI tra i Comuni di : Sarnano (capofila) - Gual- do - Monte San Martino - Penna San Giovanni - Sant’Angelo in Pontano. GUALDO Sede Comunale: Viale Vittorio Veneto, 4 Tel. 0733 668122 Fax 0733 668427 [email protected]
MONTE SAN MARTINO Ideazione e Progettazione: arch. Romina Tidei e arch. Giuseppe Gentili - Sarnano Sede Comunale: Piazza XX Settembre 4 Riprese video e montaggio: Mauro Martorelli RVM Video - Sant’Angelo in Pontano Tel. 0733 660107 Fax 0733 699135 Noleggio elicottero: [email protected] Testo generale e coordinamento: arch. Romina Tidei e arch. Giuseppe Gentili - Sarnano Testi relativi ai Comuni: PENNA SAN GIOVANNI Penna San Giovanni: Gianbattista Bravi Sede Comunale - Piazza Municipio 2 Gualdo: Amministrazione Comunale Tel. 0733 669119 Monte San Martino: Amministrazione Comunale Fax 0733 669514 Sant’Angelo in Pontano: Amministrazione Comunale [email protected] Sarnano: Amministrazione Comunale
Traduzione in inglese del testo video: SANT’ANGELO IN PONTANO Traduzione in inglese dei testi relativi ai Comuni: Michael Eldridge - Morrovalle Sede Comunale: Via Roma 49 Tel. 0733 661602 Voce per il video italiano: Gabriele Felici - Servigliano Fax 0733 661603 Voce per il video inglese: [email protected] Musiche composte e arrangiate per il video: Mariano Forti - Sarnano Realizzazione colonna sonora per il video: Free Man e David Pinciaroli - Sarnano SARNANO Sede Comunale: Via Giacomo Leopardi, 1 Web Design: ABN Studio di Simone Ermini - Gualdo Tel: +39 0733 659 911 Fax 0733-659940 Amministrazioni Comunali, arch. Romina Tidei, arch. Giuseppe Gentili [email protected] Stampa: IndicePresentazione ...... 4
Gualdo ...... 12
Monte San Martino ...... 20
Penna San Giovanni ...... 28
Sant’Angelo in Pontano ...... 36
Sarnano ...... 44 S. GINESIO S. GINESIO
GUALDO Questo progetto si propone di far S.P. 237 S.P. 55 conoscere una zona molto (ex SS 78 Picena) particolare del territorio Marchi- giano nei suoi aspetti naturalis- S.P. 119 tici, storici, artistici e culturali. Un’area definita da crinali i quali caratterizzano un percorso ad anello di circa 70 chilometri che si snoda attraverso cinque Comuni dell’alto Maceratese. SARNANO S.P. 237 (ex SS 78 Picena)
Bisio
Garulla AMANDOLA Pesaro Urbino Ancona
Macerata Fermo
Ascoli Piceno MACERATA
Passo uscita S. GINESIO Civitanova Marche Macerata Ovest FALERONE SANT'ANGELO IN PONTANO
SERVIGLIANO S.P. 29 S.P. GUALDO Saline PENNA S. GIOVANNI
S.P. 113
MONTE S. MARTINO
S.P. 237 (ex SS 78 Picena) S.P. 84
S.P. 57 SMERILLO
AMANDOLA ASCOLI PICENO
Sul sito www.anellodeicrinali.it sono consultabili tutti i materiali di questa pubblicazione oltre ai video del DVD L’Anello dei Crinali PRESENTAZIONE 4
Anello dei Crina- - L’ Nazionale dei Monti Sibil- paesaggio naturale fanta- 1 regione. - 2 - - Sant’angelo in Pontano e - Sibillini; un’infrastruttura to da indurre a guardare si sviluppa dal periodo - - - - - - - - respirando ed assorbendo- - - - lizzato i suoli per la pro- - stravolgerne gli equilibri e abitanti. suggestiva bellezza. - - tenitore all’interno del qua- - - natura e la storia possano offrire. Ed è un’opportuni- - - 3 l ’Anello dei Crinali 5
- - - 4 -
1 - Gualdo 5 2 - Monte San Martino 3 - Penna San Giovanni - - 4 - Sant’Angelo in Pontano - 5 - Sarnano tale progetto. Sarnano è situato su un’al-
The Ring of Crinali is forests, roads, villages and towns bitants have done for centuries. found in a region of Piceno, in which are formed into complex geo- The Ring of Crinali does not have the province of Macerata, on the metric and random shapes which by a beginning or an end, nor is one northeast border of the Monti their charm leave you spellbound as particular place more important Sibillini National Park. It is you look towards the horizon. than any other. It is a kind of characterised by fantastic natural This agricultural landscape, uni- container in which you can the best landscapes which are typical of the que in Italy, is the extraordinary that nature and history can offer. whole region. result of centuries of intelligent It is an opportunity that you can The area sits between hills 400 me- and thoughtful intervention by grasp without any sense of stress: tres above sea level stretching as far man, who has cleverly used the no one forces you to walk the entire as the mountains which are 2000 land for his livelihood, never upset- ring if you do not want to; you can metres in height and the Adriatic ting its natural balance or compro- start the path to any town and take Sea, only half an hour’s drive away. mising the evocative beauty of the any direction you might wish. - landscape. The ring itself will be described nicipalities, Gualdo, Monte San A footpath, of about 70 kilome- from the starting point of Sarna- Martino, Penna San Giovanni, tres in length, winds along the rid- no, because this town is the munici- Sant’Angelo in Pontana and ges and valleys offering panoramic pal leader of this project. Sarnano. They tell of an ancient views over beautiful landscapes. It Sarnano is situated on a hill 539 history, each of them different in ranges from the Adriatic Sea up to meters above sea level, by the side character and constituting a tapest- the mountains of the Gran Sasso, of the Tennacola stream and ri- ry of incomparable charm. which ajoins the Monti Sibillini ses up to 1917 metres at Monte The multifaceted character and the National Park. To hike it means Castelmanardo. It is a well-known versatility of the people who live travelling in a circle; an explora- tourist destination with winter tion on foot, by bike, by car, on sports facilities at Sassotetto, and landscape which has been shaped, horseback, or whatever way you the Centre of St James Spa pro- built and maintained continuously wish, through ever changing lan- vides hydrotherapy and inhalation over the centuries. The historic dscapes and towns, breathing and treatments. agricultural landscape, renewed sea- absorbing their aromas, sounds Sarnano has been a free commu- and sentiments,; the way its inha- nity since 1265 and is one of the PRESENTAZIONE 6
- e si raggiunge la frazione - ne di Sarnano e in parte - 6 svolta a sinistra in direzio- - - - dopo a sinistra in direzio- - a sinistra la strada verso Piazza Alta e degradando Monte San Martino. si raggiunge la frazione - - - nale sul quale si snoda la quella del Tenna a sud. Il - - - si elevano nel tessuto ur- Sulla destra l’alto orizzon- - - - del paese. - - - le une alle altre e delle sue - - - - sio diede origine alla Co- Giovanni separato dalla strada prosegue attraverso i due rilievi all’orizzonte - zia da Piazza della Libertà. Dalla Piazza si svolta a de- - - stra in direzione Contrada 8 l ’Anello dei Crinali
- - - rino ed entrò in seguito a far parte dello Stato - -
7 - Monte San Martino e 10 Penna San Giovanni un paesaggio di rara bel- 8 - Panorama lezza. Monte san Martino 9 - La Sibilla - 10 - Panorama sui Sibillini fu introdotto in Italia dai few towns of Le Marche which lage of Grulla at an altitude of path which runs along the Ridge has conserved intact its original 805m above sea level. Along the medieval character. It has the typi- the north and that of the Tenna to cal urban shape of a “castrum”, - the south. From here we can see Il a walled city that winds upwards cades of the thirteenth century and in a spiral, descending to the lower giving rise to the Comunanza of part of the town through narrow Sarnano. To the right the horizon the whole of the Sibillini mountain streets. The system of building chain: the land of The Sibyl, La maintained the peculiarities of a Mount Sassotetto with its winter Prioria, Castelmanardo and Mon- sports facilities. On the hillside te San Martino, which appears walls and doors have been well lies the ancient village of Piobbi- on a rocky relief, and Penna San preserved. Three towers rise above co, “Publicum” of Roman origin. Giovanni opposite; these separated the town, forming an unmistakable The road continues through a copse from each other by the Tennacola landmark. The warm tones of the typical of this area and reaches the bricks of its houses, built close to hamlet of Garulla, whose territory seen on the horizon between two each other, and its churches, are the lies partly in the town of Sarnano rocky reliefs. and an overhanging dominant element that gives unity and partly in the town of Aman- cliff rises here to a height of 600 to this collection of buildings. The dola (FM), and here, departing town rises as a entirety; a monu- from the fountain located on the landscape of rare beauty. ment of exceptional value. right, we turn left towards Mac- Monte San Martino takes its In Sarnano, the route starts at carelli and keeping to our left at name from a Saint whose cult was the Piazza della Libertà. From the crossroads encountered. After introduced in Italy by the Franks, here, we shall turn right towards leaving the village and heading to- replacing the former Arx Rube- Ascoli Piceno, and turn right wards Taccarelli, the route crosses tana of Roman times. Formed again towards Contrada Romana the former SS 78 Picena, now the as a free community in 1240, it where the Church of San Rocco later expanded its territory by the can be found, left again towards frazione of Rustici where there acquisition of neighbouring castles. Bisio, and from here we cross the are signposts pointing to Monte By the 14th century it was under river Tennacola, reaching the vil- San Martino..... and this is the PRESENTAZIONE 8
- di Giovanni. di Monte San Martino e 11 - - - - stra la SP 113. Attraver- - - sviluppa lungo la dorsale - una interessante visita an- Penna San Giovanni sor- - ge su di un erto sperone Proseguendo verso Sant’Angelo in Pontano - vata. Il territorio del ver- - sante nord di Penna San - - e fu residenza di signori il sale. - - so verso Sant’Angelo in - - - - - ra si vorrebbe ripristinare.
12 l ’Anello dei Crinali
Centro di origini Longo- - - - rito al Gastaldato Pontano - 13 stituito dai Longobardi. -
14 11 - Pizzo Meta 12 - Panorama verso Sud versante opposto si svol- - 13 - Panorama verso Ovest 14 - Panorama verso Est family of Camerino and later it in Pontano on the SP113, before became part of the Papal States. early 13th century walls and crossing the Saline, we come across Its churches retain some highly pri- other gates of the 14th century. zed works of art, by Carlo and The historic architecture exten- half of the last century built ds along the back of the hill up within thickly nwooded parkland, - to the top of La Rocca of which which until a few years ago was an ding Girolamo di Giovanni. traces still remain. The buildings active spa, due to the abundance Leaving behind the medieval walls are very well preserved. They are of mineral water there, and which of Monte San Martino and conti- constructed with a mixture of is currently in need of restoration. nuing down to the valley of the ri- brick and warm toned sandstone Arriving at the top we turn left on ver Tennacola along the SP 84, the to the SP 29, continuing towards path turns left onto the SP 113. northern slope of Penna San Gio- the centre of Sant’Angelo in Crossing the Tennacola a steep vanni is rich in mineral waters, in- Pontano, which like all the towns slope leads us to the ancient village cluding those of the Saline stream of this area, is located on a hill, of Penna San Giovanni whose old from where, at the end of the 13th at 473 above sea level. Its origins town crowns the top of the ridge. century, salt was extracted. Penna San Giovanni is located on Taking the road to Sant’Angelo in the name refers to St. Michael the a steep rocky outcrop, 672 metres Pontana on the SP 113, west of Archangel, the image of whom the city centre on a ridge and after appears on the municipal coat of name coming from the Latin term arms. The name Pontano refers to intersection, where there is the cha- the Steward Pontano, the Duke middle ages, and was the residence racteristic shape of the neo-Gothic of Spoleto who established busi- of local lords. In the mid 1300s church of the village Pilotti, deco- nesses for Lombard families here. It became a possession of the Da Around the middle of the ele- of the early 900. This is worth venth century the city walls were behalf of the Church. The entran- a visit as it displays an interesting built and Sant’Angelo assumed ce to the old town is via the 15th interior, which local people take the appearance of a castle which, century gate, the Porta Marina, care of and keep in good condition. in part, is still conserved today. found in the rearmost rounded Continuing on to Sant’Angelo After an attempt to build a free PRESENTAZIONE 10
sulla SP 55 si riattraversa - - il torrente Salino in breve - - gliano sull’alto orizzonte. - - - - evidenti. - Situato su una altura a 652 propone paesaggi lontani - All’altezza della Frazione quelli suggestivi verso i - - - - - - - S. Maria di Piazza di Sar- do la SP 56 in direzione - - - tana posta sulla destra si - - no attraversato il torrente - - - - Sarnano aperti tutto l’an- - a 360 gradi. - - - - -
15 l ’Anello dei Crinali 11
balneoterapia (per le pa- A Sarnano l’Anello dei - -
16
15 - Paesaggio rurale 16 - Paesaggio rurale 17 - Paesaggio rurale
community, the city became one of it offers distant, fantastic landsca- lours and shapes of the countrysi- the principal castles of Fermo of pes, especially those towards the de whose rustic nature continues to whose territory it was a part, with Sibillini Mountains. The name is connect us to this historic Marche some interruptions, until the Na- derived from the Lombard “wald” countryside, and then along the poleonic period. Tracts of medie- ridge that connects Gualdo to Sar- val castle walls are preserved, but back to the 10th century, with san- nano along the SP 119. the gates to the city are missing. dstone walls of the 14th century; At the top of Frazione Poggio we It is the birthplace of the miracle cross a small stretch of the Muni- worker Saint Nicholas, known as cylindrical towers being similar to cipality of San Ginesio. Here we Tolentino, who stayed in the Au- the forms in the west of the old - gustine convent in the town. town, which later became private stanzo in the Parish of St. Maria From the centre of Sant’Ange- accommodation. The recent urban di Piazza di Sarnano, built in the lo and along the SP 56 towards development, which has occurred Middle Ages, with its mighty tower Gualdo, after about 1 km, we on the south side of the town, does truncated sandstone. not interfere with the historic origi- Before arriving in Sarnano cros- crossroad. Here we take the main nal buildings, which have retained sing the Terro stream, we see on road uphill that winds on a ridge their original charm. the left the buildings of Municipal between the Saline and Fiastrella Gualdo has a rare example of a Baths of Sarnano. Open all year with wonderful 360 degree views. - round and under the constant su- After covering the entire ridge we nacola River on the border with turn left on to the SP 55 and Sarnano, an area of late medieval clients can receive inhalation tre- cross once more the river Salino, atment, mineral water baths, tre- soon reaching the town of Gualdo atment for deafness, for skin disea- whose towers stand on the horizon. with the adjacent community. The ses and gynecological treatment too. Gualdo itself looks like a castle sandstone mill has all the characte- At Sarnano the Ring of Cri- whose buildings seem enclosed by nali ends after about 70 km of the medieval city walls, traces of extraordinary and unforgettable which still remain. Located on a landscapes...... etched in our minds hill at 652 meters above sea level ourselves immersed in the varied co- forever. GUALDO 12
ualdo è un paese di G - - - - 1 - - - 2 - Le origini di Gualdo si per- Con tutta probabilità fu edi- Il Castello di Gualdo fu la - - avuto in possesso dai Boni- - - - - - - - no un popolo rivale. Infatti -
3 l ’Anello dei Crinali 13
4 5 - - - - -
3 - Panorama sui Sibillini 4 - Torre circolare della cinta di mura e Torre dell’Orologio 5 - Biblioteca - Archivio “Romolo Murri” secolo
6
Gualdo is a country of In all probability it was built af- previously in the possession of the historic and artistic interest set Bonifazi, a noble family of Mount within a beautiful landscape of and Falerone, when the Lords of St. Martin, who, now in decline, rolling hills. these cities, to escape massacre by in 1319 sold it with regret to the The urban structure of the city city of Fermo, and San Ginesio, centre is distinctly medieval, with a mountains, and began to build that enemy of Fermo, then became wide circle of walls in the shape of a their castles in higher places, to a rival. In fact, the border issues defend themselves from incursions between Gualdo and San Ginesio in a reasonable state of preservation. by enemies. developed into a long period of The resort offers wonderful views, The name derives from the term contest, with thefts, robberies and which extend from the Sibillini Lombard Wald, i.e. wood, which murders, until, in 1484, through mountains to the promontory of covered the whole area. Small for- Monte Conero. judges of the two communities si- The beautiful location, the favou- century to protected the few houses gned a judgment which set as the rable mountain climate, hospitable and a church (of which there are boundary, the Saline River. people and tourist attractions make still traces). Also concerning land in 16th cen- it a popular summer resort. The Castle of Gualdo was the The origins of Gualdo are lost in fortress of the ancient and po- S. Angelo in Pontano and Sarna- antiquity. werful house of Brunforte, and no, but in the following century ar- GUALDO 14
- - - a Gualdo si trovano la sua 8 Qui visse gli anni della so- - - Maggi. - - - - bino e i Santi Giovanni Bat- - - - - - rante appunto la “Madonna l ’Anello dei Crinali 15
10
12 - 7 - Chiesa di San Savino in arenaria disposto su due Ricci 9 - Chiesa Madonna delle - Grazie 10 - Chiostro del Convento frati Minori all’inizio del 11 - Torre dell’Orologio - 11 bitration put an end to the discord. suspended in 1907 ‘a divinis’ and in of Fermo and was reconstructed The importance of the Castello di 1909 was excommunicated. in the early nineteenth century by Gualdo was also determined by the From 1909 to 1913 he was mem- fact that in its territory crossed the ber of the Italian Parliament. restored from 1942 to 1945, in border between the diocese of Ca- He died in 1944, a few months after the form of a neo-classical icon, a merino and Fermo. being re-admitted into the Church. Greek cross. The name of Gualdo is closely re- He is buried, by his will, in the ceme- Inside you can admire the “Ban- lated to that of a certain Romolo tery of Gualdo and in the town can ner of the Rosary” by Alessandro Murri. Born in 1870, a priest, be found his library and his archives. Ricci, the “Madonna and Child who had been awarded the star of During his years of suspension and with Saints John the Baptist and excommunication, he would return Savino” by Antonio Liozzi, the Catholic movement. to this ‘silent mountain asylum ‘, “Last Supper”, which recent stu- to spend his holidays and return dies attributed with certainty to Christian Democrats and in the in times of crisis and despair, sur- early years of the twentieth century rounded ‘by the love of the humble Also interesting is a delicate stone was one of the most famous people people he loved so much.’ bas-relief dated to the seventeenth Italy; famed throughout the nation. The Parish Church of San Savi- century, depicting the “Madonna no was built in 300 by the Lords and Child and a kneeling saint.” the ecclesiastical authorities and was An interesting fresco of the is preser- GUALDO 16
13 in pietra arenaria sbozzata - - dove si trova un orologio - - - sente un lavatoio-fontana quattro i lati. orologiaio Pietro Mei. - La torre è a pianta rettan- - vazione. - Sulla riva sinistra del Tenna- - -
14 l ’Anello dei Crinali
15 - quadrati posti in alto in
13 - Panorama invernale 14 - Lavatoio fontana 15 - Chiesa di San Pietro 16 - Parco comunale
16 ved in the Church of the Madonna The watch has been recently resto- was further strengthened because delle Grazie, perhaps dating from red and is fully functional. it was considered strategic for the the twelfth century, the painting de- In the township, outside the town, defence of the municipality. picts the “Madonna delle Grazie” there are some churches, including The building is made of rough-hewn the object of special veneration. The the Church of the Parish (district sandstone typical of the area, and is facade of the church displays a san- Fanelli), the church of St. Jerome a tower, with drawbridges, corbels, dstone portico and adjacent to the (Castle district), the church of and bombing gaps on all four sides. sacred building still stands the Fran- Santa Maria Maddalena (district The tower, a rectangular space of ciscan convent dating back to the year Marquesas) and the church of about 11x9Sqm, consists of three 500, and abandoned by the Friars San Peter (district Tomassucci). at the beginning of the last century. In the Bartolotti district is a wash- north-east facade of m.11, 50. Especially interesting is the cloister, fountain of the eighteenth century, consisting of twelve spacious arcades, restored and in good condition. about half of the building is a sin- with a central well. On the left bank of the Tennaco- gle room with a vaulted ceiling, whe- In the central square you can see la, in the territory of the town of re there is the mill with millstones the bell tower of the fourteenth cen- Gualdo, is the Brunforte Mill of and wooden equipment still in place. tury, where there is a mechanical the 13th century. In 16th centu- Access was via the drawbridge, ope- watch made in 1850 by the famous ry, in a climate of bad relations rated and fully supported by metal master watchmaker Peter Mei. between Gualdo and Sarnano, this chains passing through two square GUALDO 18
dal ponte levatoio d’ingres- - La porta d’ingresso del - pietra arenaria e piobatoi - presente in parte una sara- e quattro i lati sono presenti - portatili. Sulla parte nord- - ponte levatoio e della fessu- ra del bolzone; sulla stessa difesa di tale porta. - se l’aspetto di un’alta torre - - tezza totale sul lato nord - piati e raggiungono tutt’ora
-
18 l ’Anello dei Crinali
21
- Via Crucis: - presentazione della Passione
17 - Mulino Fortificato- Brunforte 20 18 - Particolare del Mulino - “Formaggi d’autore”: - Presepe vivente: nel - Beccatelli - 19 - Rappresentazione del- giorno diventa il suggestivo - 20 - Rappresentazione del È un evento di grande valen- - - 21 - Mostra/Mercato “For- maggi d’Autore” holes placed at the top of the portal. Here you can still see the recesses ket cheeses of Italy with typical The current side of the structure of the drawbridge and the crack of products of this area which takes has been created in a later period in a camber, on the same wall. To the place in the month of May. It is an the space covered by a drawbridge of right of the door and at the same event of great cultural value, also level, is placed a bombardiera (a promotes food and wine, and attracts is bounded by a battiponte wall. bombing slit), and another, upstai- visitors from neighbouring regions. The front door of the mill, located rs, completes the defence to the gate. - Nativity scenes: at on the north-east part, is defended Christmas time around the old externally by structures in san- 1512, took on the appearance of town of Gualdo, just for one day dstone and stone. Internally it still a high tower with battlements and there are presented picturesque sce- exists with shutters made of oak, embrasures with brackets, reaching nes of the Nativity. This attended two side channels which slide verti- a total height on the north side of by hundreds of people, with dozens cally are also of oak. On all four about 18-19 meters. The walls were of scenes that recreate the atmo- sides are present bombing slits used doubled in thickness to two meters. sphere of the time masterfully. for semi-portable artillery. On the Among the many events that take - The way of the Cross: place in this quaint and charming the sacred representation of the there is a door that giving access to town, were: Passion of the Lord, which takes the local school, which later became - “Home made chee- place on Friday with scenes of high the home of the family of a miller. ses”, an exhibition of mar- emotional effect. MONTE SAN MARTINO 20
- nazione del luo- L’go sarebbe stata - - testato in Arx Rubetana Romanorum - tale ipotesi sia i ruderi della 1 - - -
2
3 l ’Anello dei Crinali 21
4 nel territorio di Monte San - - tore sostiene di possedere - - daglie d’argento. è di origine evidente; la se- San Martino introdotto in - 3 - Mura Medievali Monte San Martino si erge Monte San Martino si pre- 4 - Mura Medievali - -
The ancient name of the Tennacola, lies the old town offe- town gate openings in the walls town was originally thought to be ring visitors a wonderful landscape. of a town, one is completely lost, “Cologne Rubetana” or “Arx while another just recalls the name, obvious, and the second refers to the the Gate of Farmers. Of the two which suggests it was named after cult of St. Martin introduced in preserved, one, the Coccione gate, the ruins of a fortress, a huge Italy by the Franks. has pointed arches and is built of structure, bearing all the cha- Monte San Martino is still today stone, although perhaps less visible racteristics of Roman buildings. surrounded by walls. Those best because of changes that have resul- Indeed, the discovery of numerous preserved and also the most in- ted in the addition of walls to the tombs, furnishings and Roman teresting, are the walls developed convent of Santa Caterina, while a coin in 1776 in a structure be- turnstile door, oriented to the west, longing to the Leopardi family, were built with a single building shows the remains of a tower and material, a dark sandstone obtai- gate. This, built of blocks of sto- contrasegnata with Roman letters, ned from local quarries and which ne, can be traced back to the XIII an earthenware cup, and a Roman currently betray the many changes coin. In fact the discoveries, which made over time. The main part (of beautiful circular design, crafted in included many more coins and the wall) is the oldest and probably terracotta, which is a later addi- silver medals, were frequent and can be traced back to the XIII - The constitution of the Munici- Built in the thirteenth century, on a pality represents, from the point panoramic hill overlooking, Monte status, and in some parts it was of view of social and economic San Martino stood as a free city found to be leaning against ano- development, an important achie- in 1240. On the top of the hill, ther wall, tentatively attributed to vement. From the thirteenth to the in fact, above the rivers Tenna and sixteenth century there were no MONTE SAN MARTINO 22
5
6 - - - - i resti della torre portaia. si potrebbe far risalire ai se- - - - 8 l ’Anello dei Crinali 23
difendibile. Alle frazioni di - - si aggiungevano quella di - - -
5 - Chiesa Madonna delle Grazie - - - zo Ricci Martino la situazione era 7/8 - Porta Tornello - - -
municipality, local authorities and Amongst these can be found an an- territorial organisation and muni- the papal sovereignty were repe- cipalities were mainly engaged, even countryside of Norcia and brou- by resorting to the use of weapons, powerful families. The Bonifaz ght to the town, and the decoration in the assertion of their rights and family, a very old family in these the protection of their borders. In parts, played a major role in the Pagani from Monterubbiano (the the case of Monte San Martino, history of Monte San Martino. chapel was built to house this sa- the situation was quite complex, Contemporary documents also cred imagery), and which includes since being a vast territory, divided reveal other names amongst the the extensive mural of Our Lady nobles of this area, but basically of Grace Church and a series to control and defend. The hamlets Monte San Martino proved over of votive frescoes which have re- time to maintain a close loyalty to cently been brought to light. This and St. Mary Magdalene, from the Church, following the fortunes interesting collection belonged to the name of the churches in them, of the Papal States to which it Monsignor Armindo Ricci, and are the districts corresponded An- - includes the work of Girolamo selmi, Carucci, Palombi to which ce of many religious orders in the di Giovanni, a prominent member were added Monterotto, with the country, from the Benedictines to of the School of Camerino, and a Church of St. Augustine, and the Augustinians and Franciscans polyptych by Carlo Crivelli which that of the Church of Our Lady until replaced by the Augustinian was a collaboration with his bro- of mercy, as well as the Church Friars. These adding a lively and ther; the only two paintings exe- of the Madonna delle Grazie, fervent devotion to their work, pro- in the Molino area, and that of ducing an extraordinary collection was indeed a veritable explosion Barchetta. of works of art in Monte San of art between the fourteenth and Despite the establishment of the Martino. sixteenth centuries during the pe- MONTE SAN MARTINO 24
- esistente a Monte San Mar- - tino. - - - tanza nella storia di Monte - - - - - - seguendo le sorti dello Stato - - - - - - senz’altro quello attribuito a - - Agostiniani poi sostituiti - - - la “Madonna in trono tra - Martino e S. Antonio aba- Madonna delle Grazie si di grande pregio di varie - piedistallo in ferro battuto. - na la parete di fondo. La - - 10 l ’Anello dei Crinali 25
- Soprintendenza per i Beni - - - - 11 lenti al 1536. Ai lati dell’al- delle Grazie si dispongono 10 - Girolamo di Giovan- ni, Trittico - - velli, Polittico - - riod of maximum growth of this late sixteenth century adorning the frescoes are currently stored in the area, although from the mid-sixte- chapels, a Baroque altar and a font Art Gallery. enth century, will see signs of a on a pedestal in wrought iron. The During this same period (between crisis and with the passage of time altar dedicated to St. Mary Magda- 1590 and 1610) two paintings in that this becomes more serious. lene dominates the back wall. The - The Church of San Martino con- left wall of the church is occupied, duced, the one representing a visita- tains some altarpieces of exceptio- however, by three deep chapels deco- nal importance. The best known is - Mary and Elizabeth, the other the image of the Holy Face Lucca, a - the Madonna delle Grazie and the re the two triptychs stored in the last to the Holy Cross. Restoration have been made by human hands. same church, one is the “Madonna work recently completed, has helped Inaugurated on 13 November Enthroned between St. Paul and to bring to light a votive fresco in the 2005, the civic art gallery “Bi- St. Pietro “, the other depicting chapel of Median, dating back to shop Armindo Ricci” was ope- the” Madonna and Child enthro- 1536. On either side of the altar ned thanks to the donation of ned between St. Martin and St. dedicated to Our Lady of Grace paintings by Monsignor Ricci: Anthony Abbot “ In addition, it contains another work of great im- saints. These images were covered 38 works dating mostly from the portance, a triptych of Girolamo over between the end of the century. seventeenth century, painted in oil di Giovanni, one of the leading ex- on canvas, copper, and two very ponents of the school of Camerino. valuable carvings on wood. Inside the Church of the Madonna carefully removed and restored by delle Grazie you can see priceless the Superintendent for the Histo- Palazzo Urbani frescoes from various schools of the rical Artists of Le Marche. These MONTE SAN MARTINO 26
12 14 - Palazzo Urbani bugnato d’angolo da due è nata grazie alla donazione dei quadri di Monsignor - - - - sul legno. - - nizzato su di una pianta ad - del palazzo nobiliare di stile - to d’angolo a vista e i tre livelli partendo dall’ingresso ordini di piano terra piano - - - poste sul lato sud-ovest 13 l ’Anello dei Crinali
- San Pietro in Montorio. Dal - - 15 può apprendere al punto 38 - Battista Manilio Urbani del - - Palazzo Ricci - - - - - donna con Bambino - 13/14 - Carlo Crivelli, particolare del Po- littico - - or early sixteenth century by the The entire complex is organized on the animal, the cross of the Knights an L-shaped plan with the long side of Malta, the lily, the star of Cle- until the end of the eighteenth cen- ment IX and a cardinal’s hat. In shorter bordering the Piazza XX the seventeenth century Armindo have been more suited to a big city Settembre. The building consists Ricci played a multiplicity of ro- rather than a small town. In fact, of three main levels starting at the les, especially that of abbot of the the building has the characteristics diocese of Fermo and Honorary of the palace of the Florentine lower down can be found two base- Canon of the Lateran Basilica. In style of Renaissance architecture, ment levels for stores and probably addition, the task of Sottodatario, with rusticated corners and three stables. Some parts located on the the man who collected the taxes, southwest side probably have been entrusted by Pope Clement IX reconstructed or newly built in the own. Such responsibility denotes moulded sandstone, a local variant second half of the eighteenth centu- the civil and religious authority of of the Florentine stone albeit with ry as can be learned in paragraph the Ricci locally, but also their close different decorations. relationship with Rome, witnessed 38 of the will of Giovan Battista The main facade that faces via by burial records at San Pietro in A.Ricci is marked by rather comi- Montorio. A will, dated 1668, cal corner buttresses which support preserved in the municipal records, Palazzo Ricci the windows, and the entrance door shows the request of the same Ricci is of typical Renaissance sandstone The coat of arms, found in the lar- to donate his collection of works of with a keystone decorated with a art and books. The Palazzo, after leaf motif above which would have the building to be the property of careful restoration, then became the been found the family coat of arms the Ricci family. It distinguishes Pinacoteca Civica, which housed which is no longer existent. elements that identify the family: the art belonging to Ricci. PENNA SAN GIOVANNI 28
l paese - I - - 1 Madonna col Bam- bino e Santi. - - San Giovanni Battista altri aggregati urbani e in un Statua in legno policromo, alt. sui fondi. - 1,75 Una breve e ripida strada Chiesa di San Giovanni Batti- sta, cappella absidale - - - d’arte. na a quella del Forno. Le - aggrappano a livelli sfalsati - - - valorizzano il portale e le - di altezza. Nell’interno sono
2 l ’Anello dei Crinali
l’attribuzione non presenta - - - buon disegno nella testa e - rogato del notaio pennese Marino di Ser Battista de reliquit unum cereum pretii et valoris decem solidorum ponendum in altari ubi est imago sculta de ligno Beati Iohannis Baptiste prope maius altare ec- 3 - rata opera donatelliana per - 3 - Porta Marina -
The town Madonna and Child with Saints, Located in the foothills close to the Maggiore, seemingly enhanced in and a 15th century Polychrome Sibillini Mountains, Penna is 672 size by the parish church with its wooden statue of St. John the meters above sea level, between the stark lines, which is dedicated to Baptist by Silvevestro of Sulmona valleys of the Salt and Tennacol; John the Baptist and which dates can be found in the Church of St. their rivers tributaries of the Ten- from the second half of the thir- John the Baptist chapel and apse; na. The town, surrounded by its teenth century. The building is a this partially covered with goat walls , extends up a hill from north model of Romanesque architectu- skins and a red cloak, a symbol of to south, exposing its buildings to re. Not far from the square, along martyrdom, where he is seen sha- the noonday sun. the main street and the entrance of king his left arm in the shaft of the The rest of the community is di- the ancient Piazza Pretoria, on stributed in the Saline, and other the left, stands the church of San body is thin and bony, with a slight smaller centres and a number of Francesco, built in 1467, which movement and eyes with dilated pu- houses, scattered over the hill. A has a large number of works of pils, live and expressive. The right short, steep cobbled street, lined art. Among the notable monu- with old artisan shops, going down ments worth mentioning is the sky, announcing the new covenant the hill, connects the town gate to Town Hall, built in the late eighte- between man and God. the Marina del Forno. The old enth century in the main square, The wooden statue, already aclai- medieval houses, simply built, by the architect Pietro Maggi. This med by Donatello for its valuable with balconies protruding from the large building in neo-classical style anatomical study of the forms, ex- walls, cling at a split-level along the presses the sobriety of the standing slope, overlooking steep streets and is on three levels. Inside can be interrupted by stone steps, with clo- found important Roman remains from Sulmona, an Abruzzo pain- sed walls between old gardens. At and the triptych by Crivelli of the PENNA SAN GIOVANNI 30
clesie Sancti Iohannis predicte proquodam voto facto per dictum testatorum”
Teatro Comunale Il teatro fu realizzato attor- - - del Palazzo Priorale. - - - e pilastri poligonali dipinti 4 Architettura - fortificata - - Porta Santa Maria o del - - vegetali. Nella volta di ta- vole il Liozzi realizzò una - - - presenta piastre agli angoli e appartenente a una torre - - - trova all’interno dell’abitato; nell’intradosso della volta si - 5 l ’Anello dei Crinali 31
Porta Sole. È nota l’esisten- za di Porta San Martino o del 1460. Restano allo stato - sistenza dei resti di Porta - - Spinta o Portone al di fuori
6 4 - La Portarella, XIII sec. - - - century. In the Macerata archives of wood, which borders the central isolated and holding musical in- there is a statement of 15 June u-shaped and house small theaters, struments. Harmony and aesthe- 1489, drawn up by the notary Ser with two levels of boxes supported tics are combined with the acoustics Baptist de Penne Marino Karolis, by slender wooden columns and pil- of the room, especially suitable for lars painted as faux marble. The concerts or chamber music. Domenico Colucci writes “reliquit decorative style in the parapets of the boxes and columns enriches the Fortified architecture decems solidorum ponendum in al- architectural forms with depictions What remains of the fourteenth tars ubi east imago sculta de ligno of grotesque and foliate scrollsl. In century Porta Santa Maria reve- Blessed Iohannis Baptiste prope the vault of the tables Liozzi we als an arched sharp, squared stone maius altar ecclesie Sancti Iohan- behind an even higher arch, which nis predicte proquodam facto vote four frames: the largest covers the has been preserved with a wooden for dictum testatorum”; therefore, entire space up to the edges of the door equipped with irons. This it can be stated certainly that the frame, the middle size one has pla- was also known as the Eastern wooden sculpture is the work of tes on the corners with arches in Gate. The Portarella of the thir- the middle, the rectangular frame teenth century, with a round arch, with rounded edges, rests on an belonging to a tower of stone with The Municipal Theatre oval frame decorated with different- truncated hours behind an even hi- The theatre was built around colored ochre on blue background, gher arch, has hinges and an iron 1780 by the will of the citizens picturing a muse of the dance in guard which is now walled in. In of Penne, transforming the hall of the company of winged cherubs excellent condition, it still lies in- side the settlement, and inside the of the Palace Priory. It is characte- movable panels on the side of the vault you can see the traces of a rized by a structure made entirely fresco decorated with geometric mo- PENNA SAN GIOVANNI 32
8 - proprietaria si deve pure - l’erezione sopra ad altra - Villa Pilotti - - - - - ra borgata. - La Saline - proprio sul torrente Salino esistevano le Saline pon- - - gna. Alla generosità della strazione del sale. Intorno villeggiatura. - lo della villa si potenzia e - - - - l ’Anello dei Crinali 33
10 11 no adibiti al trasporto del per ospitare il personale - 7 - Torre della Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista 8 - Chiesa di San Francesco 9 - Teatro Comunale pennese godeva del diritto - 10 - Statua Lignea di San - Giovanni Battista 11 - Pilotti, Chiesa di San popolazione dalle vene di Giuseppe - tifs. Precise information is lacking of soil and consisting of three bation, presiding exemplifying the about the date of construction of arches new relationship between city and these doors, except that of the countryside. Pesa, built in 1350, which took Villa Pilotti A link with the original villa which the name of the public weighbrid- can be seen the modern era can be ge nearby. It is an arched door of up in the area and was consstructed observed in the general austerity of blocks at the base of a tower with in 1567 by Sylvester Pilotti. It was this noble country. The generosity a higher rear arch of, also pointed. a combination of homes, made up - . Its iron doors have been preserved mostly of farmhouses, and graced sed by the erection to another cha- and was called the Sun Gate. Also with a small church dedicated to pel, in 1906, the public German of note is the existence of the San St. Joseph and some stately buil- Gothic church dedicated to Saint Martino Gate or the Oven Gate dings most probably for vacational Joseph. A positive example for the built around 1460. This is now in purposes. Later the role of the village as a whole and the Fabozzi a state of disrepair as is part of villa was changed and strengthened building in the town has become the the stone arch which is situated on generating more profound innova- center of agricultural organization. the western wall. tions which provided it the ability At the edge of the area and right to fully polarize the country round on the river existed a building used of the remains of the Santa Croce about through the provision of for the extraction of salt and there Gate near the parish church, which services formerly centralized in the were several buildings housing the was demolished to build roads. The capital. The current tourist centre staff involved in the manufacture serves as a meeting placei for the and storage of salt. The Minister a door on the side of the walls, bu- promotion of agricultural activities of Saline and assistants such as ilt already in 1293, a work of and consolidation of social rela- the Guardia di Finanza, had the containment tions and is a typical urban conur- task of monitoring wells, as well PENNA SAN GIOVANNI 34
getta nel Salino. - - - l’estrazione dello iodio nella 12 - - - - - - strarono abbondanza di 13 Villa Aiello - - - - na il bell’abitato. Era noto per alloggiare i forestieri. Podium Agelli. l’atto risale al 16 giugno - - Falerio picenus
14 l ’Anello dei Crinali 35
- parte ove prendeva allog- deposito degli attrezzi e dei - -
12 - Pilotti, particolare del- la lunetta della Chiesa 15 di San Giuseppe 13 - Acque minerali villa - Saline - - as the many stables and barns for mination by prof. Trottarelli, a entrance of the valley of the Ten- the transport animals, which carri- chemist hygienist in Terni. The in- na on top of a hill overlooking a ed this precious mineral. By special vestigations showed an abundance wooded townscape. It was known privilege bestowed by the Popes, of chlorides of sodium, calcium, in Roman times as the Podium the community had the right to - Agelli. At one time, it would have remove all the salt needed for local gnesium, aluminum, iron, manga- been a recreation spot for some an- needs from the veins of salt water nese and lithium. Gentilucci built cient family of the Roman colony a centre for thermal treatments of Falerio Picenus, as in the exca- and a hotel to accommodate fo- vations, were found ancient pieces The knowledge of the existence of reigners. Its success continued of lead of an aqueduct, remains these healing waters dates back to until the Second World War. of buildings of Roman tombstones 1876, when prof. Francesco Selmi, In 1974, the family Gentiluc- with inscriptions and fragments of ci gave the property over to Mr. tombstones. In 1925, Count Gio- the direction of an engineer, Sta- Gustavo Meconi, who planned vanni Colucci built near the farm a nislao Mazzoni, wanted to create to build a clinic suitable for the- countryman’s elegant yet functional an industry for the extraction of rapeutic purposes at the thermal folly, covered with ochre brick pila- iodine in the village, and indeed spring. The business eventually found that the water contained became insolvent and the Mayor the travertine that ennobled the a high percentage of iodine. Its at the time had the business ex- houses. And in this area, original- mainly therapeutic use dates back propriated in the public interest in ly the caretaker’s building intended to 1905 thanks to a certain June 16, 1987. for storing tools and products, Villa Aiello chemical and bacteriological exa- Is a small village, located at the renowned for its cuisine. SANT’ANGELO IN PONTANO 36
u l’avvento delle inva- F - - - - - attorno alla preesistente sta- 1 Angeli in Murgiano) ossia la - - - - - - - - - - - - - gravitazionali degli abitati - - - - - eretto in questo nostro luo- - - - - - - tolato all’Angelo e fu pro- tenne l’intitolazione all’An- - prio dal titolo di questa - - - - 568 iniziò l’invasione dell’I- talia da parte dei Longobar- -
2 l ’Anello dei Crinali
dell’ordine benedettino. Il Monastero di “Santa Maria - - - ta portante quel titolo e 3 - - no si ebbe tra il 1350 ed il sto si riversarono in queste nostre zone estendendo la - appunto alla periferia del - Sant’Angelo situato nel nastero. Per la presenza dei - - - - - 1 - Panorama - 2 - Chiesa di San Nicola staldati. È proprio in questo 3 - Foto storica il nostro Sant’Angelo dai
When the barbaric inva- The town became known as the worn-out bas-relief embedded near - Court of Sant’Angelo, also iden- the top of the tympanum of the clining Roman Empire, many Ro- later church. lts Lombard origin is man settlements feli into ruin, as (“curtis Sancti Angeli in Mur- validated by its features and by the did Falerio (now Falerone), whose giano”), meaning the court in the image of the archangel Michael. jurisdiction included the territory piace called Muro di Giano (the Michael stili appears on the muni- of Sant’Angelo. A number of wall of Janus), where there used cipal coat of arms: in Roman at- small groups of people coalesced tire, he carries a sword in his right around the prexisting Roman ou- to the Roman god Janus. It might hand and the scales of justice in tpost creating what would become have been an arch, a portico or his left, while standing on a bridge, a true community. Thus, out of some other brickwork construction this replaceing the subjugated devii necessity, the curtense (or court) that was part of the outpost along of traditional Christian icono- system began to develop, and the the Roman road. The originai graphy. “curtis” became the embryo of the church, which in time grew old and The year 568 saw the beginning future medieval commune. With dilapidated, was later demolished of the Lombard invasion of Italy. the crisis of the Roman Empire and replaced by a new one, it too The Lombards established the the settlements migrated uphill dedicated to the Angel and presu- Duchy of Spoleto and from there and Sant’Angelo’s historic town mably reproducing the form of the they spread over this part of cen- centre began to take shape. The originai one (the church was located trai Italy, conquering the city of approximately in the area now oc- Camerino and creating the county probabiy on the site where a pagan cupied by the Church of St. Mi- tempie once stood, was dedicated to chael, also known previously as the administration duchies as large as the Angel, and from this Lombard Church of St. Anthony). What Spoleto were divided into a number church the village took its name. remains of the originai church is a of counties equal to the number SANT’ANGELO IN PONTANO 38
- in Matenano. Al potere dei farfensi e dei Benedettini di dovette essere grande in tut- - quello di signorotti di nobile - nostro Sant’Angelo era per- - - - 4 - signore di Sant’Angelo il dopo brevi periodi di go- - originaria di Foligno. La si- - 1413 al gennaio 1434 il pae- - - - di essi iniziò a vendere i - propri diritti feudali a S. Gi- - quando divenne signore questo la parte di territorio - queste nostre zone ponen- - - parte però i nobili si trasfe- - do della presenza nella re- - vendettero i loro diritti di - signoria a quel potentissi- - - da allora Sant’Angelo diven- - - no. I nobili feudatari san- - - - ria di Rinaldo da Montever- l ’Anello dei Crinali
6 - tevoli resti. La storia di - - - - viava a Sant’Angelo il suo
5 4 - Santa Maria delle Rose 5 - Interno Santa Maria - - delle Rose - razione dei danni inferti al 6 - Mura medievali - of Episcopal sees; the counties littie chapel. The monastery became ghbouring areas. Around 1130, themselves were divided into ‘ga- a womens’ convent between 1350 staldati’. During this period the and 1400, when a new building member of an old titled family ru- tag “in Pontano” was added to was erected just outside the town. led from Foligno, and this rule la- the name of Sant’Angelo, to di- The presence of Benedictine monks sted until the end of the 13th cen- stinguish it from the many other and certain properties owned by tury when, somewhat belatedly, the piaces with the same name. This the Abbey of Farla have us led to new concept of comune arrived in believe, perhaps mistakenly, that this part of Italy, marking the end located in the ‘Gastaldato Ponta- Sant’Angelo was a Farfa court of the old feudal system. In Decem- no’, or the Gastaldato of Ponte, that depended on the more impor- ber 1263, taking advantage of the a Lombard town thus close to presence of the troops of Manfred Spoleto, the seat of the ‘gastaldo’ in Matenano. During the 1Oth who opposed the Pope’s authority, (the king’s representative),who ru- century, the strong dominion of Sant’Angelo was deciared a ‘free led over the part of the duchy that comune’. This condition, however, Benedictines was replaced by that lasted for a few years only, and only of local squires of noble lineage. by submitting to the city of Tolenti- in Sant’Angelo was created under From ancient documents preserved no. With the papai restoration that Lombard rule. The Monastery of in Farfa we know that around followed the defeat of the imperial St. Mary of the Roses was institu- the middle of the 11th century forces, the feudal lords were reinsta- ted in 657 (the traditionally accep- Sant’Angelo carne under the power ted in Sant’Angelo, but their rule ted, but undocumented, date) at the of the sons of one Giberto, head was made increasingly uncertain by top of Girola hill, where there was of an important titled family that the winds of liberty coming espe- a smali church with also ruled over portions of Moglia- cially from the powerful comuni that name, remembered today by a no, Montegiorgio and other nei- of San Ginesio and Fermo. Some SANT’ANGELO IN PONTANO 40
rappresentante (podestà od - - rispetto delle leggi ed il pa- - - - dalla religiosità degli abitan- vero e proprio si sviluppò - vava proprio sotto la torre - - - 8 - - - - di sostegno detto “le volte - i venti rivoluzionari prove- - l ’Anello dei Crinali 41
- seguito all’invasione napole- - ad essere annesse al Regno La regione fu allora divisa in Musone e Tronto) e Sant’Angelo fu nel Diparti- - - 10 e quindi la restaurazione
7 - Rocca San Filippo 8/9 - Torre dell’Orologio 10 - Chiesa di San Nicola 11 - Chiesa di San Nicola, particolare delle deco- razioni
11 lords sold their feudal rights to in those days had the run of the the law and the payment of taxes. San Ginesio, which annexed the land. On 10 November 1445, From the second half of the 16th part of Sant’Angelo’s territory when Francesco Sforza’s rule was century to the late 18th century, known as Giuffone, near Batti- coming to an end, a papal army life in Sant’Angelo was relatively folle (1249-1252). Most of them, Ied by Taliano Furlano seized and peaceful, following the pace of the however, moved to Fermo and sold devastated Sant’Angelo, which was countryside and the duties of de- their rights to that powerful comune defended by Sforza’s soldiers. Two votion. The castle itself was exten- (1294-1316): thus Sant’Angelo years later, Fermo, once again came sively enlarged; the protective walis became one of the major castles under democratic rule after the fall had three entrances: the Square in the State of Fermo. Following of Sforza, the damages repaired Gate, below the clock tower; the the papal restoration, Fermo was and a protective wall built: its re- Mountainside Gate, at the end of assigned to Rinaldo da Monteverde mains stili largely present. In the and later to Ludovico Migliorati, years that followed, the history of double-arch passage opening on after short intervals of democratic Sant’Angelo in Pontano was Iin- - rule. Between autumn 1413 and ked to that of the State of Fermo, las’ Steps; and St. Nicholas’ Gate, January 1434 the town fell to of which it was always one of the located at the top of the Steps be- most important castles. Fermo sent fore the short descent on the side of who sent their troops to occupy a epresentative to Sant’Angelo, the Augustinian monastery, later Sant’Angelo; it was later rèturned - extended to reach the Church of to Fermo when Francesco Sforza rio, who collaborated with the local St. Nicholas. Between 1736 and became its signore. Being near the authorities (massari) and who was 1742 works were carried out on borders of the State of Fermo, responsible for the castle’s security the “Spiazzetta di S. Nicola”, Sant’Angelo was often subject to and its loyalty to the mother city, the area in front of St. Nicholas’ forays by the many free bands that as well as for ensuring obedience to Church, with the construction of a SANT’ANGELO IN PONTANO 42
- - - - ganizzarono le Confraterni- - - - - - lizzazione dei beni degli - - questi enti erano proprietari - - tuali divennero poi di pro- - santangiolese del periodo - 12 soprastante; l’inaugurazione - giunsero i Padri Passionisti a stabilirvi il loro Ritiro; (1883-4); la realizzazione per non far transitare nel - 13 l ’Anello dei Crinali 43
- - lazzina e l’elegante tettoia di - 14 -
15 16
13 - S. Maria della Mise- ricordia 14 - Piazzale Trento 15/16/17 - Teatro Comunale
retaining wall, known as “le òte de were reopened and the Brotherho- wall supporting the street above; the S. Nicola” because of the arches ods were reorganized. After the inauguration of the Town Theatre, (volte) that distinguish the castle to named after N.A. Angeletti, on this day. At the end of the 18th Fermo was abolished and, by Royal 16 September 1883; also in 1883, century the winds of Revolution Decree dated 22 December 1860, the construction of the Church of blowing in from France began to Sant’Angelo was integrated into the Immaculate Conception in the sweep over Italy and the Papal the province of Macerata. There Girola frazione, where the Passio- States, bringing great changes - the were other changes in Sant’Angelo nist Fathers set up a retreat house same changes that affected cities in Pontano. State laity was once in 1888; the extension of the ce- under papal rule after Napoleon’s again applied, and the government metery (1883-4); the construction invasion, when even the Marche re- took possession of the property of gion was annexed to the Kingdom the religious orders, of the Colle- F. Capponi, to avoid cattie pas- of Italy, with its capita) in Milan sing through town when brought (1808). The region was divided and of the Brotherhoods: almost to the fair grounds at the end of into three “Departments” (Me- half of the town’s registered pro- tauro, Musone and Tronto), with perty. The monasteries later became Church; the Lucarini-Baldoni Sant’Angelo coming under the De- municipal property. The following Hospital created on the premises partment of Tronto, the District is a short list of notable events that of the former Augustine mona- of Fermo and the Canton of San occurred in Sant’Angelo after the stery in 1889; the construction Ginesio. After the fall of Napole- of a shooting range with an Art- on (1814) and the brief episode of of Trento Square in 1880, with Nouveau building and an elegant Murat, the papal restoration tried the removal of the terraced vegeta- shooting terrace, improvidently de- to bring back the pre-existing con- ble gardens that occupied the area stroyed during the latest renovation ditions. Convents and monasteries and the construction of a massive works in 1902. SARNANO 44
- S - ne al potere feudale sia dei quello dell’Abbadia Bene- indipendente. Il paese infatti - - 1 - - e dell’auto governo dei futuri “alta”, 2 governo ed alla rappresen- lo spazio della piazza venne - - - di “castrum”, inglobare le abitazioni dei - - -
3 l ’Anello dei Crinali 45
5 - - 4 - - - potente Signoria dei Brun- forte; la Porta Poggio orientata - Poggio; la Porta di Castelvec- sviluppo del tessu to urbano. - chio orientata a sud dove si - 2 - Piazza della Libertà - - foto storica - Porta Brunforte 4 - Piazza Alta 5 - Chiesa di Santa Maria
The town of Sarnano came of the ethos of the Comune. The up until the sixteenth century to into existence in the second half of Square was thus bordered by the house the growing number of its the thirteenth century as a result of Palazzo del Popolo, the Palazzo citizens. Documents from this opposition to the feudal power of del Podesta and the Palazzo dei time even mention the presence of the Brunforte family by the Bene- Priori and it is interesting to note a Jewish community which settled dictine Abbey of Piobbico, whose that the monks of the Abbey of there during the early decades of aim was to found a free and inde- Piobbico, the facade of which also the sixteenth century. The town’s pendent community. Interestingly, looked on to the square, were in physical development, from its this community did not develop in constant dispute with the autho- the normal way; i.e.buildings con- rities over construction limitations which we can date from the early structed around castles, churches, and permissions. thirteenth century, was designed on symbols of power, but rather to a spiral pattern which followed the The town’s development natural contours of the original hill on which it was built. the town as a square, itself a Town plans from this time show The town gates were placed adja- symbol of independence and self- it to be a typical ‘castrum’, that cent to the its most important government for the future citizens is a walled city within whose areas, thus that of the Brunforte of Sarnano. In fact, in this square walls the population, mainly led into their district to the west which was called ‘Alta’, the new - where you would see castle of their district authority forbade the con- cant growing business potential, powerful domain. The Poggio gate struction of buildings that were developed and grew so rapidly opened to the North West to the not of direct relevance to the local that the town walls had conti- district of Poggio and similarly, government and representative nuously to be extended outwards the Castelvecchio gate opened to SARNANO 46
nel 1460; per poter dispor- - - - danza di argille adatte. - - - 8 - sviluppandosi in senso an- - Porta Poggio. - - - - singola re bellezza. Dal punto di vista stretta- Porta Bisio - - fu posta in direzione della - sud-ovest ed una porta det- - ta della Pesa dalle parti strutturali degli - - - - - se; le porte in questo perio- Brunforte, Poggio e Castelvecchio, - Porta Castelvecchio - ie dovute all’organizzazione - lapideo adatto alla lavorazio- l ’Anello dei Crinali
Madonna della rato il Transito della Madonna. Misericordia, tavola di Pietro funzionale. All’interno diverse opere di - Madon- Santi di La Piazza Alta na con Bambino e Santi di An- Nella Piazza Alta del paese tonio e Giangentile di Lo- - Madonna e - Bambino tra Angeli di Loren- e la Trinità di Paolo Bon- - E inoltre uno stendardo da un bel portale in pietra Annunci azione e Priori ed il Palazzo del Po-
7 - Palazzo del Popolo 8 - Teatro Comunale 9 - Torre di Santa Maria 10 - Palazzo dei Priori
10 the Castelvecchio district to the thanks to the abundance of clays Near Porta Castelvecchio the south west. locally available. battlements surrounded by walls The third wall, built in the early are still visible, in addition to the in some places reached eleven feet sixteenth century, facing towards bombing holes used for the defense high, and were built almost entirely the south-west and east, incorpora- of the town and which boasted new of brick except where the walls re- ted the Jewish settlement, and joins weapons: bombs and muskets. quired a greater thickness and here the second wall and the wall of St. The brickwork used in the town’s limestone stone from the river was Francis, spiralling counterclockwi- used which of course was not squa- se as far as the Poggio gate. typical and characteristic of the re like brick. Thus this walled city had by now general architecture of the country, During subsequent developments, it being impossible to obtain locally several extensions of the walls can inhabitants and it was found ne- stone material suitable for cutting be witnessed, the particular featu- cessary to build a fourth gate called by stonemasons, thus forcing the re being the position of the gates Porta Bisio, positoned in the di- builders to install numerous fur- which are still oriented towards rection of the district of Bisio i.e. naces for brickmaking,importing their respective districts and show- south- west, with a separate gate to specialist workers from Lombardy ing an ideal development of the control the passage of goods. The town’s urban design. fourth boundary wall was begun The second wall was begun in around 1558 and opened out to from the provinces of northern 1450 and completed in 1460. In the open countryside, whereas the Italy to central Italy and down as order to have an easy and quick other three: Brunforte, Poggio far as Naples, founding in their daily supply, smaller brick kilns and Castelvecchio, always oriented wake technical schools, which pro- were built in the municipality, towards their respective districts. duced in cotto, structural and de- SARNANO 48
Pinacoteca - tra le quali la Madonna con Bambino ed Angeli - lò di Liberatore detto l’Alun- San Francesco con il Popolo e la Madonna. rappresentanti della pittura 11 12 - - l’in titolatura a S.Biagio. Nel Musei un’abbazia ad un tal Mainar- - dell’Avifauna e Flora degli 13 - dove esisteva un oratorio de- - se distribuite nei dintorni tardi ebbe il titolo di Santa offrono allo sguardo opere Maria della Piazza. L’abbazia non fu peraltro abbando nata - - - Sotto al presbiterio rialzato Abbazia di Piobbico - - - 14 l ’Anello dei Crinali
- attribuito a frate Ugolino da - 15 te detto il Grande. sono attribuiti al Maestro - 11 - Porta Pesa 12 - Porta Brunforte dei Magi risulta opera di No- 13 - Nicolò di Liberatore, S. Francesco con il San Lorenzo de Jana (Giano popolo e la Madonna Soffiano - - donna con Bambino L’area della grotta di Sof- ed Angeli - Sub-Jano (sotto Giano) da - corative work of great interest. In a white stone portai richly sculpted the “Palazzo dei Psion’ and the fact everything was made in cotto, where there is a lunette depicting “Palazzo del Podestà”. Then from structural parts of buildings the “Transit of the Madonna”. further down there is tbc church (such as roofs, columns, capitals Inside there are many important of St. Francis built in the XII- works such as the Madonna with Ith century, but later restructered. and interiors of the entire town. the Child and the Saintsby Lo- Next io it there is the art gallery Indeed all the elements needed to renzo di Alessandro (1483), the with very interesting worlcs such perfect a decorative and architectu- Madonna and the Child among as the Madonna with the ‘Child ral style relative to the functional the Angels by Antonio and - needs of man, though not without li, and a wooden board attri buted taking every opportunity to create century) and the Trinity by Paolo io Nicolò di Liberatore, called the unique beauty in the process. Bontulli from Percanestro (1530). “Alunno”, representing Si. Fran- From an architectural point of There is also a wooden banner re- cis with the People and the Ma- presenting the Annunciation and donna situateti in an elegant room of particular artistic value, but in- the Crucifìxìon attrìbuted io Giro- stead of grandiose composition; an lamo di Giovanni, The Madonna also some important paintings of urban style which shows the chan- of Mercy by Pietro Alemanno the “Marchigiana” School such as (1494), some boards of polyptych The Crucufuxion by Stefano Fol- appropriate to the town’s emergent depicting a number of Saints by chettí, The fast Supper by Simone history, portraying the dynamics of Niccolò Alunno and two wooden reality and function. Art In Piazza Alta there is the In the crypt there are some fre- sco- church of St. Maria Assunta bu- es by Pietro Alemanno dated back Museums The Museum of An- ilt in the second half of the XII- io 1494. Besides tbc church there tique and Modern Weapons, the Ith century. The church is set off are in the square other buil dìngs Museum of Avifauna and Flora by the beli tower, built a century such as: the “Palazzo del Popolo” of the Appennines (Mr. Bran- later. The facade is adorned with trasformed iato a theatre in 1831, cadori’s collec tion), The Museum SARNANO 50
- tato da un grup po di ere- naturale.
Sassotetto verdeggianti della stagio- 16 - Monti Sibillini la neve è a - - - - - zio Sanitario Nazionale. -
Le terme La fortuna di poter disporre - attrez zato dell’intera Regio- 18 - - - 20 l ’Anello dei Crinali 51
16 - Stefano Folchetti, secolo. 17 - Simone De Magistris, secolo. 17 - Sassostetto, piste da sci 18/19 - Terme di Sarnano 20 - Abbazia di Piobbico
21 of the Hammer Sergio Masini facilities for a pleasant holiday. and tbc permanent exibi tion of The annual winter sports season tbc painter Mariano Gavasci are Adoration of Magi is a work by usual ly starts on 15th December very interestingm from a historical and cultural point of view. The for some slight changes, the white churches standing in the surroun- some gentlemen of this area gave dings offer valuable artistic works. “rev. Alberto” and his friends a monday after the Epiphany of 6th Everywhere it is possible to admire territory where they would have a number of masterpieces which built a church. The chosen piace 31st March. The period from 15th teli the tourists of the ancient hi- was a cave and the church was de- December to 6th January and all story of this interesting piace. dicated io St. Lorenzo, but it was the month Febmary are consi dered Surroundings Thé Church of before mentioned in Si. Francis high-season. For people who would St.Biagio in Piobbìco, Xth centu- Fioretti (poems) with the name of like to take a skiing course there ry, is situated al the foot of Sas- are Piani di Rognolo which have sotetto moun tain in a piace where However someone suggests its de- a school and a number of pistes two rivers join. It was dedicated rivation as coming from Sub Jano of different levels and length. The because of a nearby tempie dedi- Mountain Skiing School, establi- century then to St. Biagio. In 977 cated to San-us. After, the hermi- shed more than ten years ago, is the bishop of Fermo gave Ma- tage was inhabitateby a group of sponsored by CAI. nardo a piece of land to build an Franciscan hermits. In addi tion to The Baths The fortune of ha- abbey. He handed it over to two the church there should have been ving many natural water springs priests: Giovanni and Lupo who small rooms near die rock which with different characteristìcs can built it between the years 1030- was the natural wall. Later, when classify Sarnano as a spa centre, 1059. In the XIIIth century the friars moved to St. Liberato, perhaps the best equipped in the some of the Benedectine monks che piace sheltered other hermits. Marches. Here the springs of moved to Sarnano where there A legénd says that one of them St Giacomo and Tre Santi give was an Oratory dedicated to the spent bis lite théré with a goal and water low in mineral content, Madonna which later was called in recent excavatións, some human while at the Terro, Sassotetto Santa Maria della Piazza. The remains bave been round with the and Borghetti springs the water abbey was noi neglected as we can bones of this animai. The small is sulphuric. The water is suitable see from the frescoes dated from cavities, found in the rocky walls for the prevention and the cure of which border the cave bave a very diseases of the urinary tract, and Today of the mona stic structure old origin and represent the solar of the intestines; it is also used there is only the chur ch. Inside disk, like in other places of Italy. for gynaecolo gical, rheumatic and there is a single move covered by From one of the rocky spur near respiratory system illnesses. The the cave a clear echo is produced. Baths are provided with modern there is a crypt divided into th- Skiing Water and snow are very ree aisles, each aisle having eight simi lar words when the greci’ staff. Most of the treatments are columns with simple capitals. The mountain tops in the summer sea- under the Convention of the Na- frescoes are very interesting: some son become ski pistes in the winter. tional Health Service. of them are attributed io the Ma- On the Sibyliines skiers can use ster of Piobbico (the second half slopes at Sassotetto and Maddale- na. There are also skilifts and other La riproduzione delle foto e dei testi, anche parziale e in qualsiasi forma effettuata, è consentita solo a condizione che ne sia citata la fonte.
AN FEASR Fondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europa investe nelle zone rurali
Comune Comune Comune Comune Comune di Gualdo di Monte di Penna di Sant’Angelo di Sarnano San Martino San Giovanni in Pontano
PSL SIBILLA- Bando Misura 4.1.3.2. Incentivazione di attività turistiche- Sot- tomisura 4.1.3.2.c. Incentivazione di attività turistiche. Sviluppo di Attività di servizio turistico quali le guide naturalistiche, storicoculturali, enoga- stronomiche, escursionistiche e o cicloturistiche (c3)- Progetto ANELLO DEI CRINALI tra i Comuni di : Sarnano (capofila) - Gual- do - Monte San Martino - Penna San Giovanni - Sant’Angelo in Pontano. GUALDO Sede Comunale: Viale Vittorio Veneto, 4 Tel. 0733 668122 Fax 0733 668427 [email protected]
MONTE SAN MARTINO Ideazione e Progettazione: arch. Romina Tidei e arch. Giuseppe Gentili - Sarnano Sede Comunale: Piazza XX Settembre 4 Riprese video e montaggio: Mauro Martorelli RVM Video - Sant’Angelo in Pontano Tel. 0733 660107 Fax 0733 699135 Noleggio elicottero: [email protected] Testo generale e coordinamento: arch. Romina Tidei e arch. Giuseppe Gentili - Sarnano Testi relativi ai Comuni: PENNA SAN GIOVANNI Penna San Giovanni: Gianbattista Bravi Sede Comunale - Piazza Municipio 2 Gualdo: Amministrazione Comunale Tel. 0733 669119 Monte San Martino: Amministrazione Comunale Fax 0733 669514 Sant’Angelo in Pontano: Amministrazione Comunale [email protected] Sarnano: Amministrazione Comunale
Traduzione in inglese del testo video: SANT’ANGELO IN PONTANO Traduzione in inglese dei testi relativi ai Comuni: Michael Eldridge - Morrovalle Sede Comunale: Via Roma 49 Tel. 0733 661602 Voce per il video italiano: Gabriele Felici - Servigliano Fax 0733 661603 Voce per il video inglese: [email protected] Musiche composte e arrangiate per il video: Mariano Forti - Sarnano Realizzazione colonna sonora per il video: Free Man e David Pinciaroli - Sarnano SARNANO Sede Comunale: Via Giacomo Leopardi, 1 Web Design: ABN Studio di Simone Ermini - Gualdo Tel: +39 0733 659 911 Fax 0733-659940 Amministrazioni Comunali, arch. Romina Tidei, arch. Giuseppe Gentili [email protected] Stampa: “[…] E che pensieri immensi, FEASR che dolci sogni mi spirò la vista Fondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europa investe nelle zone rurali di quel lontano mar, quei monti azzurri”
Giacomo Leopardi, Le Ricordanze, [19-21]
Comune Comune Comune Comune Comune di Gualdo di Monte di Penna di Sant’Angelo di Sarnano San Martino San Giovanni in Pontano
l ’Anello dei Crinali