STYLE, FASHION, ELEGANCE
IN LOVE QUEEN OF WITH DIAMONDS MEET THE MOST POWERFUL LANVIN WOMAN IN WATCHMAKING ALBER ELBAZ IS THE DESIGNER WE LOVE TO LOVE GOLDEN GLAMOUR MONTE THE BRONZED WORLD "ARLO OF ROBERTO CAVALLI DREAMS THE PLAYGROUND OF THE WORLD'S MOST BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE FIE!"E FLO!ALS THE SENSATIONAL POWER OF FLOWERS
AED 40 KWD 3.2 QAR 40 BHD 4 OMR 4 US 10
Longines - La Femme - dps .pdf 1 2/18/15 11:13 AM
MAY 2015 contents
48
LES ORNEMENTS 78 JEWELLERY AGENDA 16 THE VIEW High-value thrills in carat form Women making a mark in the UAE 80 QUEEN OF DIAMONDS 22 AGENDA Nayla Hayek is one of the most May’s stylish highlights powerful women in luxury; La Femme gets a rare meeting LA MODE 88 ON THE RED AND GREEN CARPET 26 TREND EDIT Caroline Scheufele of Chopard on Selected runway trends dressing the A-list & being ethical
30 MY STYLE 96 THE SWEETEST CRUSH Designer Lama Joumi reveals Chanel’s candy-cute new collection the things that inspire her look 34 RUNWAY INSIDER LES I"ONES Saint Laurent and Miu Miu 110 ANGEL WITH A SWORD 38 ALBER ELBAZ Quirky and beautiful, Uma Thurman Lanvin’s leading man descends is a true screen icon on Dubai; La Femme meets him 118 THE MAN WITH THE 48 FASHION FORWARD GOLDEN TOUCH What did Dubai’s stylish event Roberto Cavalli is a sun-drenched have in store this season? fashion demi-god with a sublime vision of femininity 54 DESERT ROSES A sun-soaked vision in florals LA SO"IETÉ 66 OPTIC VERVE Accessories that shout in a 128 SOCIAL BUTTERFLIES monochrome statement Spring’s parties, people and places MAY 2015 contents
162
LA BEAUTÉ 136 BEAUTY AGENDA Cosmetics for spring and summer
138 MY BEAUTY Super-blogger Laura Farrant tells us about her beauty secrets
140 PRIMARY EXPRESSION Beauty in bright focus
148 GARDEN OF DELIGHTS Must-haves for summer in glorious technicolour
SAVOIR VIVRE 156 TRAVEL AGENDA Destinations of luxury
162 MY TRAVELS Stylish furniture and interiors designer Nada Debs shares her favourite holiday spots
166 SO SASSY Monegasque eatery Sass Café proves that some things travel very well
168 ART NEWS & VIEWS Shows and exhibitions, with artist interviews for May
176 SMALL-SCREEN STYLE Why television is now a powerful fashion influence RADO.COM edi!or’s no!e
I WAS REMINDED of just how challenging it must be to be a fashion designer when I met Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz (read my exclusive interview with him on page 38). At the label since 2001, Elbaz has, with quiet determination, transformed the fortunes of this once marginalised French fashion house. Today, his womenswear collections are as loved and admired as the man himself. Modest, self-effacing and utterly charming, Alber confesses that his work is near-non-stop. “I work six or seven days a week,” he told me during his first, whistle-stop trip to the Middle East. “People have a perception that my life is glamorous, but that isn’t true. It’s so busy... and I have trouble saying no to people.” As a luxury fashion editor, I can certainly relate to his sentiment, especially when I have a deluge of unanswered emails mounting up in my inbox during deadline week. Fashion is such a fast-moving arena and in it, we create a dream of perfection, beauty and luxury - that takes a lot of hard work behind the scenes! RADO TRUE DIAMONDS It’s one reason that I love being able to attend fashion shoots. The creativity, ingenuity and logistical planning that goes into creating an expression of luxury never ceases to impress me. At our recent Coco Crush Chanel photoshoot, there were ten people at the studio in Al Quoz - a photography team, stylist, model, studio manager, client and me, all joining forces to create the sweet-as-candy photoshoot that you can see on page 96. The collection takes its inspiration from a quilt pattern that Gabrielle Chanel first noticed in the 1920s. The lasting echo of that time is still felt today, and it makes me appreciate how richly storied the inspirations of our favourite labels can be. When speaking to two of the industry’s most influential women, this respect for heritage and authenticity shines through. “We always ensure that, in every brand, the DNA is respected,” Nayla Hayek of Swatch Group told La Femme at our Baselworld meeting (interview page 80). Meanwhile Caroline Scheufele of Chopard speaks of her passion in creating beautiful jewellery pieces that adorn stars at events such as this month’s Cannes Film Festival - red carpet moments that have been months in the planning. Enjoy the issue! TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF
Jola Chudy, Editor-in-Chief
Visit the Rado boutiques at - Dubai: 0 '#./'1 ('/3 4Abu Dhabi: 0.&-'$ (( 4 Fujairah: Galleria Mall +9719 2248891 12 (.+ 1 '( (# /'1+(' *".#(#!/+0-&+'!#./+-#./&-+0%&+0//&# 4 ((/+(($-## +-1'.'/222-'1+('%-+0,!+)
TA124_AD_Rado_TrueDiamonds_Rivoli_LaFemme_211x281mm.indd 1 23.04.15 10:25 1.
Chief Executive Officer Darren Hodgkin [email protected] +971 50 655 6962
Managing Director Dominic Andrews [email protected] 2. +971 55 326 5419
Chairman K.T Pagarani
EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Jola Chudy [email protected] +971 50 156 0159
Creative Director Karl Ibrahim [email protected]
Fashion and Online Writer Surena Chandé [email protected]
ADVERTISING Lucy Radford [email protected] +971 50 290 6878 2. Richard Agyemang [email protected] +971 50 246 9171
Administration Manager Sreejith Karimbil Senior Finance Manager Amith Joe Mathew
Contributors Natalie Harper Howell, Eugene Costello, Stuart Robertson
Photography Oliver Doran at www.photosolutions.me
3.
Pinpoint Media FZ LLC P.O Box 487177, United Arab Emirates, Telephone: +971 4 435 6212 www.pinpointmediagroup.com N O S OBERT R
La Femme is published 12 times a year by Pinpoint Media Group and printed in Dubai by Masar Printing & Publishing. All rights reserved. Copyright 2015 by Pinpoint Media Group. Reproduction in whole or G: STUART G: part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices and credits are accurate at time of going to N press but are subject to change. Opinions expressed in La Femme are solely those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher and its editors. Editorial enquiries should be directed to the editor via email ([email protected]). While every reasonable care will be undertaken by the editor, La Femme cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. All unsolicited materials will not be EDI"O#’S PI$K
returned unless accompanied by sufficient payment for return postage. STYLI NAVARRO, RJAY A 1. BANGLES, Dhs1,550 (each), Emporio Armani. HY: HY: LICENSE NUMBER 3-430307 VCC P 2. CHANEL LE VERNIS: Dhs 126.50 (707 Méditerranée, 717 Coquelicot, 727 Lavanda), Chanel. 3. EMBELLISHED BAG, Dhs3,375, Stella McCartney. PHOTOGRA THE VIEW
ALIA AL FARSI
Alia Al Farsi is an Omani artist whose paintings touch on the influences of her cultural heritage and the world around her; she is the winner of the Annual Omani Society for Fine Arts Competition. “My work shares a sense of historical association, paying tribute to the spirit and e%ort of our ancestors. Just as their travels helped to build bridges, I strive for my art to create similar links and interest with Oman.” She recently held her first solo show in Dubai. s!arup! wiin!h &
“One of the hardest decisions for me was elements from the society I grew up in. to give up my successful career and just Dubai is a multicultural city; I enjoy what s!'le devote myself to art. the city gives to art, being the hub for art in There is a saying that ‘if at first you don’t this region. It’s a goldmine of opportunity THESE ENTREPRENEURIAL succeed, try again.’ You aren’t a failure for me as an artist; aside from my show in WOMEN KNOW ALL ABOUT THE until you stop trying. No one is always the Empty Quarter in DIFC, it has allowed TRANSFORMATIVE POWER OF A right, no one is always successful. What me to gain exposure; following on from FRESH START! WRITES JOLA CHUDY doesn’t break you makes you stronger. this exposure I have been chosen as the It was always my passion to do what first Omani female artist to take part in I do and I believed that I was born to do the Venice Biennale. something different. ‘Preeminence’ was As with any other city, a mix of talent, my first solo show in Dubai; it represents hard work, persistence and believing in a long journey of work, mainly figurative oneself are rewarded, though luck also painting with motifs from my culture and plays a role.”
16 la femme la femme 17 THE VIEW
“Dubai definitely sets the scene for SIAN & TEAGAN reinvention,” says Sian Rowlands. “We’ve seen years of growth in this city and sometimes still can’t get our heads round the transformation. ROWLANDS I think if this city is anything, it’s inspiration to keep upping your game. We have lived here for most of our lives so My Ex Wardrobe was launched I don’t think it’s necessarily transformed us, but it has shaped the people we’ve become. in 2011 to provide a platform for Growing up in a relatively new city and being exposed to the melting pot of cultures you find people to sell pre-loved clothes here makes you appreciate diversity. and accessories . Initially run Opportunities here are so often ‘right place, right time’ scenarios. If we hadn’t have grown “I first came to Dubai in 2001 to do a through pop-up-shop events in up here, it would have been a small village in modelling shoot for Paris Gallery. A lot of the UK, a quieter life with less opportunity. people migrate here with hope of starting Dubai, the evenings have gained a I think we would still have the same drive fresh and I was one of them. Moving to as we do now, but living here gives you to Dubai was one of the biggest decisions I’ve strong following. My Ex Wardrobe opportunity to seize the moment. We’re lucky ever made. I decided to leave modelling that the network of Dubai entrepreneurs is while I was at the peak of my career. There is the region’s first web-based pre- relatively small, and we’re all really supportive is nothing I don’t love about being a model of one another, that’s something I don’t think but I wanted to fulfil a bigger dream of loved shopping site and provides we would have anywhere else. When you show becoming an established businesswoman a little generosity, you might turn someones and Dubai gave me that break. I consider a fashionable way to give clothes a awful day into a good one. Everyone is fighting myself lucky that I have a solid group second chance. a bigger battle.” of people who have a positive influence in my journey to success. I’m honoured when people say I inspire them to believe that while being a mother is a great responsibility, it’s still possible to pursue their own personal endeavours. I own and actively manage companies such as Asya’s Nursery, Al Das Medical Clinic, Vanilla and Chocolate by Jelena and my clothing line Jelena by Jelena J Bin Drai but I make it a point that everything is balanced and I still get to spend quality time with my kids. I believe that there are many things in this world that are worth trying. However, we get scared sometimes because we don’t want to try and fail. I have been through several challenges when I was starting up my businesses but I’ve learned that they are part of the process and we should continue JELENA BIN DRAI to grow and develop after going through them. The true meaning of success is not monetary or fame but happiness about Entrepreneur, model, designer and what you achieve and how you achieve it. Trying to manage my days between my mother, there are many hats that business and family is not an easy task but I’m happy to do it. I get up early every day, Serbian-born Jelena bin Drai has attend meetings with clients and other worn in her fast-forward career business engagements but make sure that I get to spend time with my lovely kids. It that has flourished during her time would seem really hard but at the end of the day, balance is the key.” in the United Arab Emirates.
18 la femme la femme 19 THE VIEW
JENNIFER McGARRIGLE & NOORA AL SUWAIDI
As the co-founders of Exquisite Events, Jennifer and Noora bring two di%erent backgrounds together in a shared vision: to deliver some of the UAE’s most stylish events. Jennifer, from Dublin, and Emirati Noora combine their passion for the intricate details of international event planning into a successful enterprise.
“Dubai is definitely a city of reinvention, business and on a personal level it has give me I don’t think anyone could disagree with the opportunity to live in a safe multinational that,” says Jennifer. “You only have to look at and clean environment. In my opinion a hard how the city has changed in the last decade, working attitude is rewarded here, I also it’s a completely different city to the one we think that people really appreciate frankness moved to 12 years ago. Of course in starting and honesty in the UAE as I think sometimes a business and being new in an industry you that’s hard to find here. will make mistakes, but we have always really My hardest won lesson in life has to be tried to take the positive out of our mistakes patience, I’m still not amazing at it but I and we have learned from them. I can safely have learnt over the years not to be as rash, say that we haven’t made the same mistakes now I make an effort to take time to stop and twice! I think you have to make mistakes to think, make sure the decision I’m making is learn and to grow especially in business. the right one, there is no better advice given My life has changed entirely since moving than to ‘sleep on it’. everything has a new here. I was very young and inexperienced perspective the next day! when I first arrived, now 12 years later I’m I am very passionate about what we do, a successful business owner and working I really love my job, the love of my daughter mum. I met my husband and married here, also drives me every day. I always wanted to had our first child and opened a business. be successful so that she would have a role My life has totally changed – for the better – model to look up to, this is what pushed me since moving to the UAE. Dubai has allowed through all the hard times. My five-year-old us to create a successful and lucrative teaches me something new every day.”
20 la femme la femme 21 a&enda
POP YOUR COLOUR Italian brand Moreschi takes colour blocking to new heights with these multi-tonal heels. Snap them up for Summer! Dhs3,499, Moreschi VINTAGE FEEL Though we can’t get enough of the QUIRKY, fun campaign, Roger Vivier’s SS15 creations is what we’re lusting CHIC SERPENTI after. With a selection of The Serpenti Forever makes for a divine statement accessory with SIXTIES-INSPIRED bags Bulgari’s unique ‘Serpenti’ head closure and vibrant leather. and heels, the collection Dhs17,700, Bulgari at features BOLD BUCKLES Harvey Nichols, Dubai adorning simple but chic accessories, along with a contrast of muted and vibrant hues.
IT’S ELECTRIC! SADDLE Paired with a neutral dress, these Nicholas Kirkwood heels are the perfect additions to UP your Summer wardrobe. SPRING IN HER STEP Dhs3,200, Nicholas Kirkwood Spotted all over this at Harvey Nichols, Dubai Staying true to its roots, Repetto’s magical new CATCHING Spring/Summer campaign. Ballerina season’s catwalks, saddle campaign incorporates its popular ballet flats with Dorothee Gilbert brings the image to life that bags and equestrian- clothing and accessories. Featured in the image have been captured by renowned photographer inspired accessories are the brand’s ‘Biba’ triple-buckled flats paired Benjamin Huseby described as moving ‘between seem to be here to stay perfectly with the ELEGANT ‘Francine’ dress, the two worlds of art and fashion’. Repetto’s with Gucci leading the which draws influences from classic ballerina attire seasonal collection features a SPECTRUM OF way. Sport some serious but this is where Repetto CHANGES THE RULES LOOKS from simple day time ensembles including WRIST CANDY with the — dismissing traditional pastels and creams often floaty A-line skirts to evening cocktail dresses in two-tone bracelet if you’re A NOD TO NEON associated with dancers, a bright pink variation striking shades and, of course a focus on its ballet Add a touch of sparkle to your feeling brave, or opt for accessories with this edgy neon has been created and chosen for the EYE- flats, stylish heels and brogues. piece from Philipp Plein featuring the CLASSICALLY CHIC an embellished skull charm. leather saddle bag. Dhs5,980, Philipp Plein
22 la femme la femme 23 luxe, allure, style
25 A behind-the-scenes snapshot from Fashion !a mode Forward 2015, as a model prepares to walk for Hussein Bazaza. !rend edi!
BAG, MARC JACOBS, Dhs5,130 LOEWE BOOTS, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, Dhs7,190
HANDBAG, MULBERRY, Dhs5,550 GUCCI COACH
HANDBAG, CÉLINE, Dhs11,400 A TOU!H OF TANGERINE With summer well and truly on its way, it comes as no surprise that neon- and vibrant-hued accessories are gradually appearing everywhere. For a fun, but simple take on the trend add a chic bag like the bold Mulberry Bayswater to a neutral ensemble for a BURST OF COLOUR – similar to the Ralph Lauren FLATS, SS15 show. Alternatively, add the Louboutins to an LBD for a PLAYFUL AND SANTONI, Dhs1,500 SEXY evening look.
la femme 27 !rend edi! FOCUS ON: FRINGING Adorning everything from shoes to jackets, TASSELS HAVE TAKEN OVER this season SALVATORE FERRAGAMOSALVATORE
BAG, DSQUARED2 Dhs3,920
HEELS, AQUAZURRA AT MODAOPERANDI.COM Dhs2,883
CLUTCH, CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA AT HARVEY NICHOLS DUBAI, Dhs6,420 SAINT LAURENT FENDI HIGH FLYING FOOTWEAR THROWING Jet-setting females are all too familiar with packing studded wedges and a seriously chic pair of beige woes. Picking shoes to pair with carefully-selected ankle boots with buckle detailing. To accompany SHAPES outfits often takes up too much time and room and transport your fabulous footwear, Michael With geometric shapes and bold shades in suitcases, but fortunately Michael Kors has Kors has also created a SOPHISTICATED it looks like the TRIBAL TREND is here to come to the rescue. With its new Jet Set 6 Shoe SHOE SUITCASE created with gold hardware stay. Christian Louboutin’s classic Passage Collection, the brand offers SIX VERSATILE and branding, along with tanned exotic skin. bag has been revamped with a dashing PAIRS OF SHOES that will ensure you look chic All that’s left for you to do is to pick an equally red, blue and white variation. Alternatively, on your travels. The collection includes a crisp divine destination! The shoes range from Dhs270- BAG, HEELS, TOTE BAG, STATEMENT JEWELLERY AND SHOES white pair of trainers, white textured heels, gold Dhs1,030 while the case is available for Dhs3,180 CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, SOPHIA WEBSTER AT ETOILE LA COACH, Dhs11,490 BOUTIQUE, Dhs2,510 Dhs1,900 are a great way to channel the trend. gladiator sandals, snake-print heels, laidback with only three pieces available in the region.
28 la femme la femme 29 m' s!'le
LAMA JOUNI Lama Jouni is the FOUNDER and CREATIVE DIRECTOR of her eponymous brand. Launched in November 2013, the high-end ready-to-wear label represents a new wave of Lebanese and Middle-Eastern designers making their mark on the luxury and haute couture fashion scene. After arriving in Paris in 2007, Jouni cut her teeth at some of the most prestigious labels in the industry including Balmain, Rad Hourani and Reed Krakoff, while evolving her own distinct aesthetic vocabulary. Her current collection references her own culture and is designed for the modern, EMPOWERED INTERNATIONAL WOMAN.
I grew up in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia and in launching and fully establishing my think that it is comfortable, minimal went to school there. Jeddah always felt fashion brand in the UAE. but with a stylish edge. like home to me, I was very comfortable and at ease living there. I eventually The average day in the life of Lama I was aware of fashion from a young moved to Dubai recently, just six month Jouni is invariably very busy! Most of age. My first signature style involved ago, after having lived for seven years the time, my day schedule means that I layering, where I liked wearing lots of in Paris. I finished my professional have a very active morning with work, things layered up on top of each other; training at Rad Hourani and decided but I do try and always find time to visit a perfect look for cold Paris. to come to Dubai to launch my brand. the gym, or just to have a little moment I only really developed my own style for myself. after moving to France and I think, on Now in Dubai, I am busy building reflection that after my third year in up my own brand of womenswear The important thing about being Paris I really found myself and evolved in the emirate. My new office will stylish and comfortable is confidence, my personal look. Looking back on be based out of the newly emerging rather than a particular label. I think my life, the greatest influence on my Dubai Design District development. that there is nothing more intriguing style was certainly living in Paris. The As artistic director and brand owner, than a woman with genuine self- cosmopolitan city is so inspiring, with I am very aware that the next year will confidence, and I hope that my its culture and its array of incredible be very busy for me, as I move forward personal look reflects that; I like to architecture, art and fashion.
30 la femme 31 m' s!'le
I LIKE COMFORT AND PRACTICALITY AND THAT’S HOW I WANT TO DRESS MYSELF: I AIM TO BE EFFORTLESS AND COOL.
— LAMA JOUNI
Easy Parisian elegance infuses Lama Jouni’s personal style, I admire the work of many fashion how I want to dress myself: I aim to be with edgy leather jackets, big designers, but one of my favourites effortless and cool. When I am working boots and pretty designer has to be Haider Ackermann. I love I like to wear boots with loose pants and sandals combining in a unique look that is functional, practical that he always tells a personal story a T shirt; I like to be comfortable. As for and comfortable. The aesthetic in his designs. The storytelling woven the evening, I can quite happily switch is echoed in her own label, ‘Lama Jouni’ which embraces into each garment creates a certain the boots to glamorous high heels, and this stylish philosophy. mood and it’s beautiful to discover it. that’s my day to night transition.
One of the most recent items I bought A favourite piece of clothing in my as a treat to myself was a pair of wardrobe is a vintage Yves Saint stunning Balmain sandals, from Level Laurent shirt, back when the brand Shoe District in The Dubai Mall. I was still called that (it’s now just Saint was delighted to discover Balmain Laurent). An instant classic that I available in Dubai, and the sandals are bought in Paris, I love it because it is very comfortable. I do enjoy shopping 20 years old yer remains completely and another recent acquisition that wearable. I don’t think it will ever go I bought was a stunning ring from Le our of style as it’s so simple yet classic. Marais in Paris. I love browsing and exploring the vintage stores in Paris, When it comes to my go-to wardrobe with their unique treasure troves of items, I have a few fast favourites antique and vintage goods. tucked away. I adore my leather Balmain biker jacket, my pretty Jimmy I think that when it comes to style. my Choo runway sandals and my classic look reflects me, because I am someone Balenciaga black trousers. And of who is strong but still sensitive. I like course, I always feel more beautiful comfort and practicality and that’s when I put my mascara on!
32 la femme la femme 33 runwa' repor!
SAINT LAURENT How do you make a 1970s disco pimp vibe chic and classy? Why, give it a Saint Laurent interpretation of course. Hedi Slimane’s SS15 woman is glamorous, and brings the nighttime edge of the club into her attire by day. www.saintlaurent.com
34 la femme la femme 35 runwa' repor!
MIU MIU Beneath specially constructed monastic arches, Miu Miu’s models sashayed confidently down the runway. Miucca Prada’s SS15 woman, in her many colourful guises, is always a strong female totem and here, in her frilled tops and housecoat silhouettes, the Miu Miu woman expressed a playful yet strong femininity in an array of cleverly clashing patterns and fabrics. www.miumiu.com
36 la femme LA MODE
EVERYONE LOVES
He’s the fashion designer beloved by women for his beautiful garments that flatter, embrace and enhance the female form. As LANVIN’S ALBER ELBAZ makes his first official Middle East appearance. La Femme meets the charming king of style who loves to dress women.
BY JOLA CHUDY
38 la femme 39 LA MODE
here’s a small, loud and extremely well-dressed tornado making its Tway slowly out of the ballroom at the One & Only Royal Mirage in Dubai. A mass of abayas, sparkling jewellery, elegant outfits and big hair is surging out of the doorway. At the centre of this preened and perfumed crowd, a short, round man dressed in what can only be described as a Harry Potter wizard’s cape, is carried on a tide of plumage and excitement. “How beautiful you are! How chic!” his soft, melodious voice can just be heard over the high-pitched noise. So he hasn’t been smothered, then. Yet. The crowd coos, giggles in delight, a cacophony of thank yous and compliments; cameras are brandished aloft for selfies. Pouts are perfected. Alber Elbaz, creative tour-de- force of Lanvin, fashion darling and beloved of style mavens worldwide for his women- friendly creations, peers out from behind thick-rimmed rectangular glasses and squints, smiling beatifically upwards. Dubai is pleased to meet you, Alber. Greeting his fans to spread the Lanvin message in the Middle East, Elbaz looks comfortable as the centre of attention. Which he well might – he’s had time to get used to being a king of elegance. At the creative helm of Lanvin since 2001, 40 Elbaz is credited with pretty-much single A personal touch is the handedly transforming the fortune of the ultimate mark of true once-marginalised French fashion house. luxury as Alber Elbaz Founded by the eponymous Jeanne at the introduces his autumn/ winter collection cusp of the 19th century, Lanvin started out (detail top right) at an as an exclusive couturier serving the sartorial exclusive preview for the Middle East (top needs of the wealthy ladies of Parisian left and main black and white image).
la femme 41 LA MODE
high society. With a boutique on the rue intimate, friendly, though clutching a du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, and a dye cushion to himself, a comforting barrier. factory in Nanterre, the maison flourished At 30 minutes, it is a generous interview under the leadership of Lanvin and then slot and I wonder whether I have prepared her daughter Marie-Blanche. Known for enough questions. I need not worry. Elbaz its intricate details, pretty colours and is in a talkative mood. He is candid and exceptional style, Lanvin was family- uncensored, stopping only when I ask owned right up until the 1960s when him what his home is like, smiling a silent, L’Oreal acquired it. It changed hands, was “No”, he will not talk about his home and divided, resold and eventually bought by a private life. In an industry that demands private investor who appointed Elbaz as its a relentless cycle of creation, reinvention creative director in October 2001, where and scrutiny of its players, it’s fair that he has remained ever since. not everything needs to be up for public Though today he is known even to consumption. And yet his replies on the those outside fashion circles, Elbaz’s route whole are genuinely considered – just like to the top was a circuitous one. Born in his approach to design. And it is clear as he Casablanca, Morocco, he first picked up speaks, that Alber Elbaz loves women. And a dressmaker’s needle in a small shop in we love him too. New York’s Garment District after moving there from Israel in 1984. He met the Jola Chudy: How was the event? couturier Geoffrey Been in 1989 and was Alber Elbaz: We tried to do it small and his assistant until 1996; it is a mentoring intimate rather than big and grand… there
I AM VERY HAPPY TO BE AN OUTSIDER. BEING PART OF THE CROWD AND PART OF A SYSTEM IS SOMETHING THAT SCARES ME.
relationship that Elbaz still references is a time for both and there is a time for today as having taught him everything he more private moments… and that is what knows. A stint at Guy Laroche followed, we tried to do. After the show, I brought before Elbaz was headhunted to design out some of the looks and we talked about Yves Saint Laurent’s ready-to-wear the dresses. It was really fun. We showed womenswear line. Sadly, after three the reality of the show; life is not just a fake seasons, Tom Ford took that top slot when runway show " you can translate it to your Gucci Group acquired the label. Elbaz own needs. recalls this time as one of the most difficult in his career, a crisis point that drove him Do you hold events like this a lot? to leave the fashion industry entirely for a Not really; fashion is not what it used while, though " thankfully for the legions to be. It’s eight shows a year… it’s one of female fans who adore his designs " the of those things that is endless. I’m departure was only temporary. leaving Dubai tomorrow and I didn’t He bids farewell to the last of the see anything here. I wish I had more Dubai event’s invitees, who have enjoyed time. The day after I get back, I am in a personal presentation of the autumn/ back-to-back meetings " that’s life! But winter 2015 collection and a chance to at least if we get some of the energy of pre-order garments. And now it’s time people that is good. for him to meet the region’s journalists. As we sit down to talk, he plumps himself Having been born in one country, grown next to me on a small sofa, ostensibly up in another and then worked in yet 43 The designer looks on as his autumn collection is revealed for Lanvin fans in the Middle East.
42 la femme LA MODE
“EVERYTHING INFLUENCES MY WORK. THE TIME OF THE DAY, THE PERSON I’M WITH, AND THE MUSIC I LISTEN TO. THE AFFECTION I GET OR DON’T GET.” - ALBER ELBAZ
another, do you feel like an outsider? one day when I was at Yves Saint Laurent to do? But my fantasy was to be a doctor, I am very happy to be an outsider. Being after a show and I saw him, and I asked not a designer. I don’t know why. Maybe part of the crowd and part of a system is him ‘Even after all these years Mr Saint as it’s a fantasy, it should remain one something that scares me. I love the idea Laurent, you still get stressed?’ And without the ability to answer ‘why’, of being able to be free, not needing to he said ‘because of all these years I get because when we answer it’s no longer be politically correct, to be able to say stressed.’ such a fantasy. But I think that what I do what you feel, to be where you want, to be similarly involves working with the body, with who you want… Being an outsider is Does your location influence your work? not a bad thing. I think you have a better Everything influences my work. The You are at the head of one of the few perspective on things. time of the day, the person I’m with, and fashion houses that still has its own the music I listen to. The affection I get design atelier... Even when you first moved to New York or don’t get. As designers, I think that When you take a piece of fabric and you or Paris at the beginning of your career, everything touches us. turn it into a three-dimensional thing… was it not a bit frightening then? this is what the French ateliers are all Nothing has changed; it was the same What made you want to be a designer? about. And, unfortunately, the ateliers feeling all those years ago. I remember Maybe that’s the only thing I know how are disappearing. It’s why you see more
44 la femme 45 LA MODE
and more ‘flat’ clothes in fashion: more plastic feather and put it on a ring and put team at the end of the day, I think there stretch, more prints. It all covers up the that on some metal and then on a piece is a loyalty that they know I am there lack of true know-how. of a wood and that’s the dress. That’s not for them and they for me. I feel like a fashion. The beauty of the experiment that conductor in a big orchestra; I conduct In Paris, the Lanvin womenswear we are working on is the fact that we work the music but they produce it. atelier is on the opposite side of the road with an atelier and the people working to that of the menswear atelier, where there are seekers looking to see how to What do you look for in your team? Lucas Ossiendrijver is the head Is your mix technology with tradition, how to cut First I like intelligent people. Second I relationship also so close? fabrics – what happens when you cut the hate bitches. I don’t like nasty people I adore Lucas; I hired him 10 years ago fabric against the grain, what happens to a and thirdly I like talent – in that order. now. We always talk about what we want jacket cut in bias? The camera likes things I can meet people who are very talented to say and why and what it means; we find that are big and loud, but not everything but if they are mean I can’t take it. They a story. We try to see what is relevant for has to be big and loud. block me. I am a very open person, I am men and women of today. simple, but I need that kind of freedom I enjoy the fact that we are so opposite Are you sensitive to what other people to make mistakes, and you can only make yet so alike – first of all he is skinny and think about your work? mistakes if it comes with comfort. tall – but I think his approach is different I’m sensitive to everything and everyone, yet the end result is similar. I’m a little all the time. That’s what makes my job How do you decide when a design is more impulsive; I’ve learned from him to easier as a designer but also my life difficult finished? Because up to then, it’s a take more time and observe. As a creative as a person, because I take everything so process of making mistakes? director you have to be ‘creative’ and you seriously. I don’t take anything lightly. That’s an interesting question. It’s one of those things that is almost like an abstract painting. It’s finished when you don’t need to change anything else. I do a AS A CREATIVE DIRECTOR YOU lot of fittings and I change, and I change, and sometimes I ask myself ‘is it too much HAVE TO BE ‘CREATIVE’ AND change?’ But the moment I don’t need to YOU HAVE TO BE A ‘DIRECTOR’. AND change anything else, the piece is ready.
YOU HAVE TO FIND A MIDDLE GROUND What’s your autumn winter collection IN THESE TWO CONTRADICTIONS inspired by? The collection was inspired by Morocco, WITHOUT BECOMING MEDIOCRE. I went back to the place where I was born. I wanted to convey that feeling of clothes that hug you, that are a bit more generous, that are not too ‘bodycon’, that are not have to be a ‘director’. And you have to find a After you left YSL you did a lot of soul- too fitted… that they are not killing you middle ground in these two contradictions searching, was that your biggest crisis? in order to be worn. without becoming mediocre. It was, but life is full of crisis, and that’s good. When people tell you that What’s the most challenging thing about When I interviewed Lucas a few years everything is wonderful, you know that your life as Lanvin’s creative leader? ago he described Lanvin’s style as nothing is wonderful. I don’t believe in The lack of time! For example, I arrived ‘evolution, not revolution,’ is that the those kind of perfections. You go through here and I had to prep for events, same for womenswear? hell, you go through difficult moments interviews, go to the store, do styling, Absolutely. You know, revolution is very and you grow from it. It’s one more scar, meet the ladies, know what to say on provocative and it always starts well but it’s one more kilo on the scale. This is life the spot. You finish that and then take it never ends well. Evolution doesn’t start - I’m totally a pessimist! Disaster is right photos with everybody and then another with a lot of noise, it whispers, but the end around the corner. interview. I adapt my role all the time yet result has more longevity. there is always a lack of time in between You manage a team of people, what’s the to create. And creativity takes all your What about being experimental? chemistry like? energy. I don’t know how to say ‘no’, that’s The world of the atelier is a laboratory in a We work really hard. I always say that my problem. I love people, the human way; I am experimenting on a daily basis. Lanvin is the kind of place where I don’t touch. I give of my time; I don’t hide Experimentation doesn’t mean you take a feel that I need to have a drink with my behind the fashion, I expose myself.
46 la femme 47 LA MODE
platform dedicated to showcasing the Middle East’s fashion industry, Fashion Forward also brings together designers whoA have made this region their business hub – designers from the Philippines, India and Morocco all showcased their wares this season, the fifth edition of the popular show that has become as much a showcase of the UAE’s passionate fashion crowd as it is about the couture and ready- to-wear collections of a diverse array of BEST sartorial talents. Some of those showing were doing so for the first time, while others, such as Amato by Furne One have become a respected highlight. Amato’s creations FOOT are notable both for their theatrical presentation and their impeccably crafted garments that echo the finest haute couture traditions of high fashion. They represent some of the best work coming out forwardDUBAI’S ANSWER TO PARIS FASHION WEEK of this region, a region whose output is still CONTINUES TO BRING TOGETHER AN relatively nascent. For every Amato or Ezra, ASSORTMENT OF THE REGION’S TALENT! there is a budding designer with financial FROM ESTABLISHED COUTURE LABELS backing claiming to be - and often failing USED TO DRESSING THE A-LIST! TO NEW - at being the Next Big Thing. It’s a peril DESIGNERS STILL FINDING THEIR FOOTING of a region where it’s still relatively easy to get noticed. Getting noticed is just the BY JOLA CHUDY first step - events such as Fashion Forward merely provide a platform. In addition to the shows, of course, there were talks, panel discussions and presentations (all taking place again at Madinat Jumeirah), with topics as diverse as the evolution of fashion, the influence of Middle Eastern style on Western fashion and the effect of visual merchandising on an industry ever more held to scrutiny by the power of social media. Ezra Santos, one of the region’s most respected couturiers, was among those showing. The Philippine designer was inspired by his home city of Manila during the 1930s, for his ‘Maria Clara’ collection. “My inspiration is the old Manila and the beauty of the older days, the gorgeous mestizas in their finest Maria Clara and the days of the Spanish occupancy in our country that had a major influence on Philippine fashion. I used Piña, a fibre made from the leaves of a pineapple
48 la femme la femme 49 LA MODE
THE ARRAY OF DIVERSE STYLES ONLY SHOWS THAT THERE ISN’T REALLY A REGIONAL STYLE WHEN IT COMES TO FASHION, RATHER AN ECLECTIC MIX OF EXPERIMENTAL AND ESTABLISHED BRANDS INFLUENCED IN MYRIAD DIFFERENT WAYS.
Amato by Furne One is one of the region’s most succesful haute couture designers.
plant, mixed with silk to create a textile time this season and brought with her Western clothes. The array of diverse and therefore very organic. It is commonly a 25-pieces strong collection inspired styles only shows that there isn’t really a used in the Philippines for formal wear by the 1970s and that era’s rock and roll regional style when it comes to fashion, like our famous Barong Tagalog, Maria aesthetic. “My fascination with Bianca rather an eclectic mix of experimental and Clara and wedding dresses. It’s a hand- Jagger, the 70s glamoru girl is what infuses established brands influenced in myriad woven fabric made by weavers and is this collection,” says Jouni. “Focusing different ways. One thing that does seem very precious and scarce. I also used on the traits of boldness, individuality to be a recurring thread is that designers inabel, another organic fabric from and liberation, from plunging necklines here feel far more able to launch and the Philippines and the rest are tulle, and high waistlines to long capes with develop their own labels than in the highly jacquard, crepe silk and neoprene.” exaggerated shoulders, this collection saturated and more established markets A designer whose heritage is a little celebrates women in every way.” of Paris, New York and London. closer to the region, and a relative Reflecting the diversity of the region in “Compared to the fashion industry in newcomer to the fashion industry here is which it takes place, designers showcased Paris, London or Milan, the industry here Lama Jouni. The Lebanese designer was a variety of cultural styles, from traditional is a relatively new force,” Lubna Zakwani showing at Fashion Forward for the first Islamic garments, to Indian couture and of Omani label Endemage told La Femme.
50 la femme 51 LA MODE
Previous Page: Amato by Furne One, Left: Ezra and below left: Starch. Opposite: Highlights from this season’s show.
“We enjoy an certain upper hand in that we can be more easily recognised and have more of a chance to prove ourselves. The label, which didn’t show this year at Fashion Forward but was one of the participants at Season Two, remains confident that events such as Fashion Forward can help emerging brands establish themselves. “It really helped to put us on the map and was an important step for international recognition,” she adds. Furthering a partnership with d3, this Season saw the final day of FFWD held at Dubai Design District, bringing designers together with industry influencers, buyers and media. Along with networking opportunities and panel discussions, each designer had a showroom space, displaying their full collection. How much the event actually contributes to enhancing new brands standing on an international level is hard to quantify; for brands already enjoying existing successes, the show is undoubtedly an opportunity to cement their reputation and show their clothes here. For emerging brands, the fees to participate may be yet another obstance in their road to success.
52 la femme la femme 53 deser! in roses oo blEMBRACE THE MOST COLOUmRFUL TREND OF THE SEASON WITH MODERN! FIERCE FLORALS THAT MAKE A STATEMENT
Dress, Alexander McQueen, Dhs9,270. Handbag, Christian PHOTOGRAPHY: OLIVER DORAN // STYLING: NATALIE HARPER HOWELL // HAIR & MAKE-UP: ALEXANDRA SCHAFER USING Louboutin, Dhs6,590. Shoes, Christian AMIKA AND TOM FORD COSMETICS, SKINCARE BY KATE SOMERVILLE // MODEL: ZUZANNA @ LUSH // WITH THANKS TO DESERT PALM Louboutin, Dhs4,390. RESORT & SPA FOR THE KIND PERMISSION TO SHOOT AT AL BAWARDI STABLES
54 la femme la femme 55 Opposite: Top, Grayson, Dhs1,200. Skirt, Elisabetta Franchi, Dhs2,240. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, Dhs3,390. Bag, Loewe, Dhs4,786. This page: Jacket, Sportmax, Dhs1,560.
56 la femme la femme 57 Blouse, Stella McCartney, Dhs4,410; Skirt, Stella McCartney, Dhs3,275; Handbag, Christian Jacket, Sportmax, Dhs1,506. Louboutin, Dhs10,890; Trousers, Sportmax, Dhs2,185. Shoes, Christian Bag, Celine, Dhs6,793. Louboutin ,Dhs3,790.
58 la femme la femme 59 Blouse, Alexander McQueen, Dhs5,740.
60 la femme la femme 61 Blouse, Alexander McQueen, Dhs5,740. Skirt, Alexander Blouse, Elisabetta McQueen, Dhs4,170. Franchi, Dhs1,995. Bag, Alexander Skirt, Elisabetta McQueen, Dhs7,360. Franchi, Dhs1,800. Shoes, Christian Bag, Celine, Louboutin, Dhs4,390. Dhs6,703.
62 la femme la femme 63 Top, Alexander McQueen, Dhs5,650. Skirt, Alexander McQueen, Dhs5,350. Clutch, Alexander McQueen, Dhs1,700. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, Dhs5,190. Ring, stylist's own.
64 la femme la femme 65 LA MODE
Op"ic
ELEGANCEV IServe NO ILLUSION WITH ACCESSORIES THAT PICK UP A MONOCHROME MOOD.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ARJAY NAVARRO // STYLING: STUART ROBERTSON
BAG, Dhs4,550, Marni. SHOE, Dhs2,785, Roger Vivier.
66 la femme la femme 67 LA MODE
NECKLACE, Dhs3,375, Stella McCartney. SHOE, Dhs4,000, Roger Vivier.
68 la femme la femme 69 LA MODE
BAG, Dhs7,360 and SCARF, Dhs1,625, both from Alexander McQueen.
70 la femme la femme 71 LA MODE
Opposite page: SHOE, Dhs5,800, Versace and BAG, Dhs2,250, Emporio Armani. This page: BAG, Dhs8,600, Jimmy Choo.
72 la femme la femme 73 LA MODE
This page: WEDGE HEEL SHOE, Dhs2,300, Santoni. Opposite: SCARF, Dhs1,625, Alexander McQueen.
74 la femme la femme 75 "es ornementshaute joaillerie & timepieces 76 Certain to elicit a touch of envy, Bulgari's Serpenti is an instantly recognisable statement piece of jewellery. jeweller' IN FULL BLOOM Described as having a fascination with WILDLIFE AND NATURE, it comes as no surprise that Wendy Yue’s ‘The Orient’ THE collection features influences of both with her selection of intricately crafted pieces. RIGHT OLD IS GOLD Available at Harvey Nichols Treat yourself to these elegant vintage Dior RING earrings from Sophie’s Closet before they disappear. Set with diamonds www.sophiescloset.com and gold, Piaget’s new Possession range has arrived. VERSATILE AND ELEGANT, the accessories take you from day to evening. The brand’s international HEART TO HEART ambassador Jessica This unusual dual heart creation from Hueb will Chastain fronts soon be one of the rings you’ll refuse to remove. the understated Hueb at Harvey Nichols campaign, highlighting just how easy it is to incorporate the jewels into your look.
BLING RING With the trademark Versace Greek key, this glamorous pink quartz ring is new to the fine jewellery SS15 collection BULGARI from the Ronde line AT BASEL www.versace.com Bulgari unveiled several dazzling new collections at Baselworld 2015. Our FROM THE HEART favourite, however, was the white gold DIAMOND- With openwork hearts now accompanied new additions. The VERSATILE RANGE STUDDED LVCEA. by solid centres of onyx, mother-of-pearl, features earrings, bracelets and necklaces Replacing metals with fabric, turquoise and the brand’s famous FLOATING in rose and white gold, with the white gold the range also features COVETED CUFF DIAMONDS, Chopard has revisited its variations being perfectly contrasted with Reminiscent of the brand’s iconic alligator strap editions in bags, Chanel’s Coco Crush range popular ‘Happy Hearts’ collection with special STRIKING TURQUOISE HUES. focuses on the quilted pattern bold red and sapphire hues. translated into fine jewellery. Price on request, Bulgari Dhs75,100, Chanel
78 la femme la femme 79 LES ORNEMENTS
THE QUEEN of DIAMONDS Arguably one of the most influential women in luxury today, Madame Nayla Hayek grants La Femme some rare insights into the enigmatic world of her newest gem, jeweller Harry Winston
BY JOLA CHUDY & JIHANE MILLER
arry Winston was a jeweller who famously never Jaquet Droz; her brother Nick is CEO of the company. Her revealed his face in photographs. Discretion was father Nicholas, who died in 2010, built an empire founded his most precious commodity, and he valued it as on the popular Swatch, and the company features some diligentlyH as he did the priceless diamonds that made his of the most revered names in watchmaking (Glashutte name. With her understated, methodical demeanour and Original and Omega in addition to those helmed by elegant style, Nayla Hayek echoes that idea of discretion, Marc). In March 2013 Swatch announced the acquisition yet as the most powerful woman in watchmaking she is also of luxury diamond jeweller Harry Winston for one billion the very public face of a business that reported gross sales dollars. Nayla Hayek is that company’s CEO, a role that of CHF9,219 billion (Dhs34,442 billion) in 2014. Swatch she has elegantly made her own. La Femme met with her at Group, of which Hayek is Chair, is a formidable business, BaselWorld in Switzerland to discover how watchmaking’s with member of the Hayek family in key leadership most formidable female is giving Harry Winston a facelift positions. Her son Marc is CEO of Breguet, Blancpain and for the future.
80 la femme la femme 81 LES ORNEMENTS
What do the latest Harry Winston the Project Z9. But for women, one model watch and jewellery pieces reflect that everyone really loves is the Butterfly. about how this high jewellery brand It has a really special dial, and the dial and has evolved under your leadership? the Automatic movement are both new in I think that Harry Winston has its own this collection. existing DNA and with the additional strength of Swatch Group with all our Do you think that there is going to be a techniques, movements… it’s a careful shift into more mechanical watches for balance between the two to achieve what women in general? we have this year. For sure, a little of my Yes, though I think it is very much own taste has gone into the collection dependant on individual countries, this year, but I don’t think it’s [all just] because if you look at Japan, they really 82 my influence. adore the small Avenue models – I think The Premier Precious I think the most actual innovation is they even prefer the Quartz movements. Butterfly 36mm Automatic in our men’s Histoire de Tourbillon 6 and We will always have the jewellery is a new novelty from Harry Winston for 2015 as is the stunning Art Deco diamond watch pictured opposite.
la femme 83 LES ORNEMENTS
watches, those small evening watches but some of the work was begun before which you wear perhaps two or three that. It takes around four years to develop times a year; there a Quartz movement is a new Harry Winston collection. nicer and easier to have because you don’t We always ensure that, in every brand have to always adjust the time. under the Swatch Umbrella, that the DNA is respected. One very important thing in Soon after acquiring Harry Winston, achieving this is the design aspect, and the the brand unveiled a jewellery collection other is the technique of setting, and of called Secrets. How have you ensured course the stones. that this collection remains within Harry Winston’s territory of expression You said recently that when choosing and how do you ensure the legacy of the stones it’s as much about how they feel brand is respected? as what they’re worth... 85 The launch of the Secrets collection was Yes – with the outstanding stones, they The Premier Shinde Automatic is among the made after we acquired Harry Winston, have to speak to you. The stones that jewellery watches new to Harry Winston this year, while the stunning high jewellery of the Jeweller’s Secret timepiece is a star of the new Secrets collection.
84 la femme LES ORNEMENTS
The Premier Hypnotic Star and (opposite) the Premier Shinde Automatic, with its Grand Feu enamel dial.
we use have to pass our quality control enjoyed the work you do if you had had for colour, size, clarity… all these points. the same position but not in your own This is the normal way as in most jewellery family business? companies. But the really outstanding A ‘family business’ is how we describe the stones such as the Legacy or the Blue have business because Swatch Group is our HARRY WINSTON’S PREMIER SHINDE to be exceptional. There is never a plan for family. It’s not really a ‘family business’. AUTOMATIC 36MM IS A TRIBUTE TO stones like this, if one comes up at auction My father was building it, yes, we are we look at it and have to have luck to be able one of the main shareholders, but it’s not AMBAJI V. SHINDE, ICONIC DESIGNER OF to buy it because at auction you never know owned completely by us. I think that it THE JEWELLERY HOUSE. THE THREE what could happen. would be very difficult to work in another company, it’s the spirit of Swatch Group PREMIER SHINDE MODELS ARE INSPIRED Swatch has been a part of your family for that makes it special and feel like a family BY SHINDE’S ARCHIVED DESIGNS. many years. Do you think would have business, even if it isn’t really one.
86 la femme 87 LES ORNEMENTS
ON THE RED !ARPET WITH !hopard A partner to Cannes Film Festival and a jeweller to the stars, Chopard’s exquisite creations are the A-List’s gems of choice. Ahead of revealing four high jewellery pieces at Cannes this month, Chopard’s CAROLINE SCHEUFELE tells La Femme about green carpets and making dreams come true
BY JOLA CHUDY
s the latest Cannes Film Festival unfurles this month, one Carpet High Jewellery creations to deepen our commitment to The of its most glittering partners is gearing up for a launch of Journey. The Journey to Sustainable Luxury launched in 2013 as the Aits own. Chopard, which has been crafting the Palme d’Or world’s first watch and jewellery company to support and enable gold since 1998, is helping to mark the 60th anniversary of the award mining communities. We are committed to increasing the quantity with a new collection that also celebrates something equally dear to of Fairmined gold in our products by introducing new High Jewellery Chopard – sustainable luxury. More than just a buzzword, it has creations for the Green Carpet Collections in the coming years. become increasingly a key part of the jeweller’s mandate to improve In fact, to ensure the traceability of the Fairmined gold used, we the environment and the lives of those at the very beginning of the have created and put in place a segregation process in our workshops high jewellery supply chain, whose work is often forgotten amidst in Geneva ensuring that Fairmined gold is not mixed at any stage the glitz and high-carat opulence of fine jewellery. with other types of gold. Gold waste is also dealt with separately. The Green Carpet Collections of High Jewellery, made in accordance La Femme: You must be so proud of your journey with the Green with the Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) ethical benchmarking, are Carpet Collection which has been so interesting in terms of all produced through this dedicated process. 89 raising awareness of ‘fairmined’ gold. How is this collection being Opposite page: A necklace from developed and evolved? In today’s world where even luxury can be mass-made, it is such the Green Carpet Caroline Scheufele: Since May 2013, we have been unveiling Green a true luxury to know the provenance of your pieces – is this Collection which is to be unveiled at Cannes in May. This page: A creative campaign shot of Chopard’s high jewellery.
88 la femme LES ORNEMENTS
something that you may develop in all your pieces? Chopard has been crafting the Palme d’Or since Our Journey to sustainable luxury is a multi-year 1998… do you think your involvement has helped program and as I often say, Rome wasn’t built in make it more of a global event? one day! We launched the Green Carpet Collection We have been the official partners of the Cannes Film in 2013 and two years later we also have two L.U.C Festival since 1998. I do not know if we can say that watches made out of Fairmined gold. We are trying Chopard made the Cannes Film Festival more of a to introduce more and more pieces in Fairmined gold global event but we definitely brought our glamourous and Chopard truly wants to increase the amount of touch to the Festival. THROUGH Fairmined gold in our general production, not only the High Jewellery Collection. However, the available Did the Red Carpet collection start with particular THE VARIOUS quantity of Fairmined gold is limited. celebrities in mind, as your muses? EDITIONS OF THE The Journey initially began with gold and diamonds After attending the Festival for many years, I and we now search other materials to use in our unique acquired a keen awareness of how important the CANNES FILM pieces. We are currently working on the possibility of red carpet moment is for the stars and of the kind of FESTIVA L , CHOPARD using different stones and we are very proud to work jewellery they were dreaming of. with opals, since the beginning of the year, that are For this reason, I have imagined the Red Carpet HAS ADORNED sustainably sourced. As the Journey progresses, collection and designed original pieces, all very GLAMOROUS STARS further developments will happen in the sourcing of different from each other, so that each celebrity would other key materials – but this will take time. find the jewellery that best suits her personality and SUCH AS CATE would make her shine like no other. In the end, all BLANCHETT, ZHANG Chopard is involved with several good causes, are there women inspire me! others close to your heart? ZIYI, PÉNÉLOPE CRUZ, When life has given you so much, it is only right to Which celebrities are you particularly happy to see ANGELINA JOLIE, AND give back and to serve just and noble causes. We Caroline Scheufele wearing Chopard? have been involved for many years now in a number and Marion Cotillard Chopard loves actors and actresses and the feeling is CHARLIZE THERON. collaborated on a new of patronage activities covering a variety of fields collection for Chopard mutual. Through the various editions of the Cannes including medicine, ecology, art and culture. (opposite). Chopard’s Film Festival, Chopard has adorned glamorous stars Among our engagements, we support the Elton John high jewellery pieces such as Cate Blanchett, Zhang Ziyi, Pénélope Cruz, (above) have graced AIDS Foundation and the José Carreras foundation some of the world’s Angelina Jolie, and Charlize Theron to name but a few. against Leukemia. most beautiful women. Seeing Chopard jewellery on the red carpet is always
90 la femme 91 LES ORNEMENTS
the new Happy Sport 30mm Automatic; a model with a smaller, elegant case of 30mm and a self-winding movement. This Happy Sport watch is a timeless, feminine watch that is delicately sized while exuding sophistication and technical refinement. We also revisited our Happy Hearts Collection by approaching it from a whole different angle. The traditional openwork hearts have now become “solid” turquoise, onyx or mother-of-pearl hearts placed along slim white or rose gold chains. A new shape is also welcomed in the collection: a bangle bracelet of which the two ends, one colorful heart and another enclosing a moving diamond, face each other in an elegant pas de deux. Finally, in High Jewellery, we are introducing one-of-a-kind creations paying tribute to the light and colors of nature’s seasons. The craftsmen based in our Geneva manufacture masterfully reinvent and craft our unique Haute Joaillerie creations.
Is everything made in-house, from cutting the stones to the final polish? We are proud to say that today we have a fully integrated production process. Through our five modern production sites, of which Geneva, Chopard Manufacture and Fleurier Ebauches in Fleurier, we have more than 30 different crafts represented by watchmakers, jewelers, polishers, gem-setters, engravers, bevellers, precision mechanics… We have a complete mastery of High Jewellery and High Watchmaking by combining such a pleasure and our creations really quite naturally. I really love Marion’s traditional expertise with the use of new come to life when they are worn. design. Her hand jewel reminds me technologies and innovation. Moreover, of all the hands that work on crafting we have a strong commitment to in- And now you’ve created a collection these exceptional models: from mining house training and we established our with one of these celebrities as Marion the stones through to gem setting. It’s a own watch making school to ensure in- Cotillard has collaborated on a new beautiful symbol. Marion also designed house training to all of our craftsmen. collection with Chopard… a model that corresponds to her, that she We train a number of apprentices I’ve known Marion Cotillard for a long would wear. She likes the mix of styles and (watchmakers and jewellers) and we time, ever since the day when, as a young eras; the rich colour palette of these opals encourage accordingly the transmission actress, she received the Trophée Chopard associated with diamonds inspired her of expertise. We are also proud to be one in Cannes – a trophy that rewards this Art Deco hand jewel. of the few brands to have our own in- particularly promising young talents. We house gold foundry. were certainly right about her! I’ve been And meanwhile at Baselworld in March, 93 regularly following her film career as well Chopard unveiled its latest collections for You introduced jewellery to Chopard – Opposite: Caroline Scheufele with Marion as her commitments to protecting the 2015… What stands out for women? are you more fond of jewellery or watches Cotillard and (below environment. This collaboration arose Among our novelties we present this year as a product to look after and develop? picture) a piece from the latest Green Carpet Collection. This page: a pair of high jewellery earrings, designed by Scheufele.
92 la femme LES ORNEMENTS
As said before, I am truly passionate Co-Presidents of the company and are financial independence of the company; with my work and I love everything I do. running the brand. He is responsible for we do not have to report to stakeholders. It is difficult for me to choose between the men’s watch division, our Chopard Being a family business is an advantage jewellery and watches. These are Manufacture in Fleurier and its related regarding decision making and strategy completely different worlds but both very developments, as well as handling the planning: we regularly and more easily interesting. I enjoy creating magnificent technological and commercial aspects consult with each other regarding FREE OF ANY SETTING, jewellery and beautiful watches, I adore of the company. Even if we manage our decisions on corporate development gemstones and I love to include them in own poles of responsibilities, we work involving issues such as global strategy, HAPPY DIAMONDS both jewellery and watch creations. very closely and we share the same office production, distribution, new designs and AND ITS CLASSIC TWIRLING, since we joined the company and it will new products. This allows us to be flexible How do you ensure that collections of remain that way! It facilitates the flow of and take quick decisions. ENERGETIC, JOYFUL GEMS watches and jewellery complement each information and allows us to debate more HAVE PLAYED A STARRING other? easily. Our opinions on each other’s work And what are some of the challenges It is important for us to have a connection is very important for us. – time must be one of your greatest ROLE IN CHOPARD’S HISTORY. between jewellery and watches. The luxuries? Do you get time off? first jewellery collection was the Happy As a figurehead in a family business, Time is indeed a real luxury! When I do Diamond, which came to complete the what are your key responsibilities day manage to get some time off, I simply watch collection wearing the same name. to day and what are the advantages of enjoy spending some time at home. I love Nowadays we have watches and related working as a family? gardening and taking care of my dogs. jewellery in most of our collection even I am responsible for the entire women’s After all, I have nine of them. in the High Jewellery with “L’Heure division - watches, jewellery and high du Diamant”. We always try to create a jewellery -, the accessories and the retail Chopard’s Green Carpet capsule synergy between watches and jewellery. division. We are a 100 per cent family- collection will be available at Chopard and owned business. An important aspect select Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons stores. For more You work so closely with your brother. What about independence that we were able information, please contact: Chopard Dubai is it like working with him? to preserve throughout the years – my Mall at +971 4 339 8333 or Chopard Fours My brother Karl-Friedrich and I serve as parents acquired Chopard in 1963 – is the Seasons at +971 4 385 5858.
The Happy Diamonds concept was created in 1976; it has become one of Chopard’s signature lines.
94 la femme la femme 95 LES ORNEMENTS
THE swee!es! !#USH !HANEL’S !LASSI! QUILTED PATTERN GETS A MODERN TWIST WITH THE !O!O !RUSH !OLLE!TION THAT’S AS SWEET AS !ANDY
Jewellery: Coco Crush rings in 18-carat yellow gold, PHOTOGRAPHER: OLIVER DORAN // STYLING: STUART ROBERTSON // MAKE-UP ARTIST: TONI MALT FOR CHANEL Chanel Fine Jewellery. JEWELLERY: COCO CRUSH, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY & PREMIÈRE ROCK, CHANEL. Eyes: Stylo Eyeshadow 147 Caroube. CLOTHES: ALL CLOTHES ARE CHANEL SS15 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION. Lips: Rouge Coco Shine MAKE-UP FOR ALL THE LOOKS: COLLECTION MÉDITERRANÉE: SUMMER 2015 MAKE-UP COLLECTION & LES BEIGES DE CHANEL, 497 Intrépide. COMPLEXION LE BLANC DE CHANEL, LUMIÈRE D’ÉTÉ ILLUMINATING POWDER, NAILS IN CHANEL LE VERNIS 659 BEIGE PUR.
96 la femme la femme 97 LES ORNEMENTS
Jewellery: Coco Jewellery: Coco Crush rings Crush rings in in 18-carat yellow and white 18-carat yellow and gold, Chanel Fine Jewellery. white gold, Chanel Eyes: Chanel Stylo Fine Jewellery. Eyeshadow 127 Laurier Rose. Lips: Rouge Coco Shine 477 Rêveuse.
98 la femme la femme 99 LES ORNEMENTS
Jewellery: Coco Crush rings in 18-carat white gold, Chanel Fine Jewellery. Première Rock watch in pastel pink leather, Chanel. Eyes: Chanel Stylo Eyeshadow 117 Azulejo. Lips: Rouge Coco Shine 477 Rêveuse.
Jewellery: Coco Crush rings in 18-carat white gold, Chanel Fine Jewellery. Première Rock watch in pastel pink leather, Chanel.
100 la femme la femme 101 LES ORNEMENTS
Jewellery: Coco Crush rings in 18-carat yellow gold, Chanel Fine Jewellery. Première Rock watch in pastel blue leather, Chanel.
Eyes: Stylo Eyeshadow 127 Laurier Rose. Lips: Rouge Coco Shine 477 Rêveuse.
Jewellery: Première Rock watch in pastel blue leather, Chanel.
102 la femme la femme 103 LES ORNEMENTS
Jewellery Coco Crush rings in 18-carat yellow gold, Chanel Fine Jewellery.
104 la femme la femme 105 LES ORNEMENTS
Jewellery: Coco Crush rings in 18-carat white gold, Chanel Fine Jewellery. Jewellery Coco Crush Eyes: Stylo Eyeshadow rings in 18-carat 117 Azulejo. white gold, Chanel Lips: Rouge Coco Fine Jewellery. Shine 477 Rêveuse.
106 la femme la femme 107 legends past & present
!es icones 109 The quilt pattern is a recurring motif in Chanel’s lexicon and sees its latest incarnation in the Coco Crush fine jewellery collection. Finely engraved into the gold, the pattern is seen on a range of rings and a cuff bracelet. Instantly evoking the style of Chanel, the pieces – that can be worn stacked together – reflect the spirit of the designer, echoing her friendship with Etienne Balsan, whose passion for equestrianism first introduced Chanel to the quilted pattern on jockeys’ padded jackets. LES I"ÔNES
THE ANGEL WITH THE FLAMING SWORD ELEGANT AND PERFECTLY POISED! UMA THURMAN IS A SCREEN ICON WITH A COLOURFUL & QUIRKY PERSONAL LIFE! WRITES EUGENE COSTELLO
ma Thurman. The willowy and beautiful Hollywood actress with size 12 feet (true piece of trivia). Her father, the first Uwesterner to become a Buddhist priest (of which more later) named her after the Hindu goddess of light, and gave her the middle name Karuna, the Buddhist concept of compassion. (Arguably, she got off lightly — her three younger brothers are called Gandan, Dechen and Mipam). And her ex-husband, famous British actor Gary Oldman, said gnomically of their divorce, “You try living with an angel.” Goddess, angel, famed beauty, award-winning actor — would the real Uma Thurman, just turned 45, please stand up? Many cinema lovers, asked to name Thurman’s most iconic role, will no doubt, cite the breakout role that instantly elevated her to the A-list, that of Mia, wife of the psychotic thug Marcellus Wallace in the violent black comedy Pulp Fiction. Who can forget the scene where John Travolta finds her comatose after an overdose? It’s a
110 la femme 111 LES I"ÔNES
Opposite clockwise from top right: In iconic character in Batman, Kill Bill, Pulp Fiction and Gattaca. Away from the silver screen, Thurman has starred in fashion campaigns for Louis Vuitton.
scene not for the squeamish; panic- Ishii in a snow-drifted Japanese garden is first he refuses, saying he had stopped stricken, he drives her back to his dealer’s flawless cinematography. That Tarantino making swords some 20 years earlier, and house where they spike an enormous ‘borrowed’ heavily for this scene from the had sworn never to make another one. needle of adrenaline directly into her Japanese 1973 “Toei” (literally, pinky- When Thurman speaks to him in Japanese heart, thankfully restarting it. It seems violence) revenge film Furyô anego den: and explains she needs one to take her incredible now that Thurman was not Inoshika Ochô (‘Sex and Fury’) does revenge upon her former boss and lover the first choice for the role — Michelle not lessen his genius; in fact, it adds to it, Bill (David Caradine), Hanzo relents. To Pfeiffer, Meg Ryan and Holly Hunter were showing as it does his eclecticism when it master this five-minute segment of the all considered first. comes to influences. film, as well as to choreograph her fight Her greatest role with Tarantino, to There are a number of reasons why scenes flawlessly, Thurman spent three whom one could argue Thurman should advocates of Kill Bill as Thurman’s best months in Japan, learning the language be grateful for the resurrection of her now role to date feel so strongly. The first is and martial arts. Even falling pregnant stellar career, was as ‘The Bride’ (whose that, across four hours of edited rushes didn’t stop her; it simply meant being name, Beatrix Kiddo, is only to be revealed that obliged the studio to release it as creative with shooting schedules. in Kill Bill: Vol 2) in his ambitious t wo-part a two-volume film (and a testament to That Thurman would burn brightly conflation of a Western and a Japanese Tarantino’s influence), Thurman never in the constellation of celebrity was, revenge movie, Kill Bill. While many once wavers and holds the film as firmly perhaps, fated, with a family history fans argue that Pulp Fiction represents as, say, Pacino does in The Godfather — no that is as esoteric and exotic as much Tarantino’s finest hour, a large number mean feat for a relative newcomer. that comes from the world of film. of critics give Kill Bill the edge. Thurman The second is that it is a tribute to her Her maternal grandmother was noted is electric throughout, but the fight scene stamina and determination that she plays Swedish beauty Brigit Holmquist. She is against the eye-mask-wearing, dark-suit- the role so flawlessly. Part of the plot immortalised with a nude statue erected modelling, samurai-sword-toting gang involves Thurman travelling to Okinawa in 1930 in Trelleborg, a busy port and the The Crazy 88 in a Japanese restaurant, to visit the fabled sword maker Hattori southernmost town in Sweden. Birgit followed by her merciless despatching of Hanzo (played by Sonny Chiba). Now married a German nobleman by the Lucy Liu’s psychotic gang-leader O-Ren owner and chef in a budget sushi bar, at name of Colonel Baron Friedrich Karl
112 la femme 113 LES I"ÔNES
Johannes von Schlebrügge, a monarchist studying with the present Dalai Lama of a state-of-the-art Tibetan medicinal and distinguished cavalry officer with Tenzin Gatso, who remains a close friend, spa facility and business in the Catskill an impressive record in World War I and was ordained a Buddhist monk in 1964. Mountains in Phoenicia, upstate New who went into business in Berlin in the Reputedly the first westerner to have such York. 1920s and 1930s. His integrity is seen in an honour conferred upon him, Thurman An esoteric childhood, then, for Uma, the fact that he was imprisoned by the nonetheless renounced his celibacy vows with academic, liberal and spiritual Nazis during World War II for refusing upon returning to the States and met influences aplenty. The family spent most to betray his business partners who were and married the ludicrously beautiful of their time on the liberal east coast as dad Jewish. Holmquist married him in jail — and ludicrously intelligent, holding a Robert moved between posts as a professor and, thanks to her Swedish passport, the psychology degree as she does — Nena von of religion. They encouraged the children couple were able to flee to Mexico City, Schlebrügge, in 1967. to be different, to eschew the usual where in 1941 Uma’s mother Nena was Their first son, Ganden, was born American high school pursuits and to dare born. Dashing stuff. in the same year, with Uma following in to be different. No wonder Uma is reputed At the age of 14, the legendary British 1970, born in Boston, Massachusetts, to have been a difficult, sometimes angry photographer Norman Parkinson was on often seen as one of the most liberal teenager; one form of rebellion against her a tour of Stockholm when he caught sight and European of the 50 states of the non-mainstream background was when of Nena who had inherited her mother’s United States, and home to the world- she joined the school cheerleading team. It outstanding beauty and “discovered” class universities Harvard and the was a phase she quickly grew out of: now her; she moved to London two years later Massachusetts Institute of Technology, she says, “I’m lucky to have been raised in 1957, where she was in high demand, and the state that would be home to Uma in the most beautiful place — Amherst, leading to a move to the then epicentre of for most of her childhood. The family Massachusetts, state of my heart. I’m more patriotic to Massachusetts than to almost any place.” And again: “But I had a very traditional background as well. My parents are neat people.” I WAS NOT PARTICULARLY Uma Thurman often appears in lists of BRIGHT, I WASN’T VERY the world’s most beautiful women; it wasn’t I HAVE N’T MET ever thus. At Amherst Public School, she ANYONE LIKE ATHLETIC, I WAS A LITTLE TOO TALL, was teased for her tall, angular frame, ODD, FUNNY LOOKING, I WAS JUST prominent nose and those enormous feet. HER AT THAT AGE. HER She says: “I was not particularly bright, INTELLIGENCE AND REALLY WEIRD AS A KID.” I wasn’t very athletic, I was a little too — UMA THURMAN tall, odd, funny looking, I was just really POISE STAND OUT. BUT weird as a kid.” Once more… “Tall, sandy THERE’S SOMETHING blonde, with sort of blue eyes, skinny in fashion magazines, New York, modelling also spent time in Woodstock, New York, places, fat in others. An average gal.” It was ELSE. SHE’S MORE THAN for the likes of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. and the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand, something that cut the young Thurman to A LITTLE HAUNTED.” In 1964, Nena married the professor where Thurman’s friend the Dalai Lama the quick, leaving her introverted and - JOHN MALKOVICH ON UMA THURMAN. and high priest of the beatnik movement once visited their home. Thurman today is angry. Thurman says now: “I had to go to Timothy Leary. The LSD-advocating Je Tsongkhapa Professor of Indo-Tibetan a mirror and look at it. I couldn’t picture professor clearly didn’t have enough in Buddhist Studies at Columbia University, myself in my own head. I had no image common with the young 24-year-old holding the first endowed chair in this beyond a stick figure. I wasn’t a mean beauty; she divorced him after just one year. field of study in the United States. He person as a kid, or dumb, and something Then in 1967 Nena met polymath also is the co-founder and president of has to be said to justify excluding you.” Robert Thurman. Thurman was, and no the Tibet House New York and is active In her eighth grade, however, when doubt remains, an enigmatic and colourful against the People’s Republic of China’s she was 14, Thurman took part in a school chap. In 1961, he suffered a freak accident control of Tibet. It had an effect on Uma, production of Arthur Miller’s allegorical while using a jack to lift a car that caused who says: “Buddhism has had a major play about the anti-Communist purges him to lose an eye. This life-changing effect on who I am and how I think about of McCarthyism in the 1950s, reimagined injury led Thurman to re-evaluate his life; the world. What I have learned is that I like as the notorious Salem witch-hunts and he divorced his first wife and set off on a all religions, but only parts of them.” trials. It would appear that she caught five-year trail on a motorbike from Turkey And mum Nena is the managing the acting bug; within a couple of years, through Iran and on to India. On his director of Menla Mountain Retreat, she would drop out of school to pursue a travels he discovered Buddhism and, after where she has overseen the construction thespian career.
114 la femme la femme 115 LES I"ÔNES
Like many actresses, Thurman’s living with an angel.” For her part, we can has said he has a foot fetish, and Thurman route into the world was though modelling. imagine that there are no hard feelings on allowed him to indulge it by drinking In an echo of her mother’s career, she was Thurman’s part, saying as she has “I still champagne from her stiletto at an event spotted as a model in 1985, aged just 15, love the people I’ve loved, even if I cross to promote Pulp Fiction in 2010…) signing with the agency Click Models. the street to avoid them.” But it was ultra-rich London-based She achieved early success with British In 1997, Thurman appeared to great French financier Arpad Busson who magazine Glamour and British Vogue, with reviews in Gattaca, a critical success, has been her most recent beau, with a two covers for the latter, in December if not a commercial one. On set, she relationship from 2007; they announced 1985 and May 1986, when just 16. Within met Ethan Hawke, by whom she fell their engagement in 2008 but broke it off two years she would make her acting debut pregnant, marrying him seven months in 2009, only to get back together some with roles in Johnny Be Good, a high school later on May 1 1998. The child was a months after. They have a daughter, born comedy, and a thriller called Kiss Daddy daughter, Maya Ray, to whom a brother, in 2012 and perhaps named in keeping Goodnight. Levon, followed in 2002. Hawke and with the Thurman family tradition Then came a reasonable break — a part Thurman separated in 2003, the of unusual names: Rosalind Arusha in Terry Gilliam’s madcap rollercoaster divorce being finalized in 2005. Arkadina Altalune Florence Thurman- The Adventures of Baron Münchausen. As with Gary Oldman, Thurman has Busson. Somewhat unsurprisingly, they Cast as the goddess Venus, she played maintained a dignified silence about just call her Luna. opposite screen legend Oliver Reed’s Vulcan. A brief nude scene was inspired by Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus. But it was her fourth screen outing that arguably MOTHERHOOD DEFINITELY propelled her into incipient stardom, TOOK THE FOCUS OFF OF the Oscar-winning Dangerous Liaisons. She played a young courtier seduced by MY WORK. AND I DIDN’T MIND. I HAD A the philandering Vicomte de Valmont, FEW PANICS WHEN I THOUGHT THAT Jon Malkovich who would say of then-17 IF I WANTED TO WORK I COULDN’T Thurman: “I haven’t met anyone like her at that age. Her intelligence and poise stand GET A JOB.” out. But there’s something else. She’s more than a little haunted.” — THURMAN ON MOTHERHOOD Thurman spent this period of her life in London, where she is remembered the cause of separation, telling Oprah Her personal life has mirrored her for wearing outsized and baggy clothes, Winfrey when asked if the separation career, in that it has been up and down (for hiding that angular frame — she is said had been the result of infidelity: “There balance, as well as the brilliant Kill Bill, we to have been treated as a teenager for was some stuff like that at the end. We must mention some of the turkeys, such body dysmorphia and was apparently were having a difficult time, and you as Batman And Robin, where she failed to horrified, while in London, to learn from know how the axe comes down and how impress as Poison Ivy, and the too-awful- an agent that she was beginning to be people behave and how people express for-words My Super Ex-Girlfriend). considered a sex symbol. Says Thurman: their unhappiness.” More lightheartedly, But just as she always bounces back “I spent the first 14 years of my life she also says: “It is better to have a in her personal life – it is fair to say that convinced that my looks were hideous. relationship with someone who cheats her best performances ensure that Uma Adolescence is painful for everyone, I on you than with someone who does not Thurman still has much to give. know, but mine was plain weird.” flush the toilet.” Thurman herself has said that, while Despite the covering up, at the age Rumours have always surrounded her children are young, family comes of 20 she and Gary Oldman, 12 years her relationship with Tarantino, who first: “Motherhood definitely took the her senior, met and had an instant has described her as a “goddess” and focus off of my work. And I didn’t mind. and powerful mutual attraction. They a “Muse”. In 2004, in a Rolling Stone I had a few panics when I thought that married soon after this whirlwind cover story, the pair denied having if I wanted to work I couldn’t get a job romance but divorced two years later, in had any romantic relationship, though anymore and then I would get one once in 1992; both have remained tight-lipped Tarantino, asked about it on another a while and it would make me feel better.” about this marriage and have not really occasion by a reporter, cryptically said: Uma, take your time. We adore you for spoken in public about it, except for “I’m not saying that we haven’t, and I’m who you are and how you can act when on Oldman’s enigmatic comment, quoted not saying that we have.” song and at the top of your game. Kill Bill at the beginning of this article “You try (In a rather bizarre aside, Tarantino Volume 3, anybody?
116 la femme 117 LES I"ÔNES
oberto Cavalli. Two words synonymous with over- the-top flamboyance, and a signature love of meshing together different Rmaterials to create an opulent look. His aesthetic is certainly not for the faint- hearted – whoever said “less is more” did not get through to Cavalli, whose slogan might well be “more is more, and then more again”. He effortlessly weaves together metals, silks and fabrics to create his highly individual look. It is a look that has gone down well in the cruisewear sector, with the international super-rich favouring his creations. A list of the locations of his boutiques reveals the international hotspots from which he serves the very top echelons of fashion consumers; think Venice, St Tropez, St- Bartholemy in the Caribbean, plus the oil-rich locations of Qatar, Dubai and Azerbaijan among others. Like fellow Italian designers such as Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, Cavalli has cleverly extended his brand with a wide range of licensing agreements that sees his name on products from sunglasses to perfume and even vodka, while still avoiding the pitfall of cheapening the THE WITH brand by being too ubiquitous, such as, say, Burberry. MANTHE Not for him the mundane, the ordinary, the non-extravagant – he has said “I declare war on the economic crisis.” And again, “I continue to create dreams. Everybody needs to dream, especially in GOLDEN tough times.” In that sense, Cavalli is closer to Louis Vuitton in that as well as selling the steak, the brand is selling the sizzle. TOU!H That is to say, clients are buying into a brand that is seen as inspirational, SENSUAL! SEXY AND SUN-KISSED. THERE IS ONLY and translates across a lifestyle, from ONE ROBERTO CAVALLI. AND HE IS A MAN ON A luggage to clothing and accessories. To MISSION TO DRESS WOMEN AS SENSUALLY AND wear Cavalli is to make a bold statement VIBRANTLY AS IT’S LEGALLY ALLOWED. – his designs are highly individual
BY EUGENE COSTELLO and bold, taking a self-confident and audacious client to wear them.
118 la femme la femme 119 LES I"ÔNES
A campaign shot from 1972 shows a bronzed and fun-loving mood. Opposite page, clockwise from top right: A 1999 runway look, the designer, a lavish headquarters in Florence, and a shot depicting the signature fragrrance.
“I LOVE WOMEN WHO ARE INDEPENDENT AND FREE, STRONG WILLED AND STUBBORN. A STRONG PERSONALITY IS THE SEXIEST THING TO ME” - ROBERTO CAVALLI. “I have a woman in mind when I opposite of the values that lie at the heart that so many fashion writers ironically design: she is a positive person, cheerful, of the ethos of his grandson. now detest – sand-blasting jeans. In joyful and confident, has glamour in her While a student, he designed a series fact, in the Eighties, when muted and veins, is a master of her own destiny,” of floral prints on wool that were well sombre colours with sharp lines were all says the designer. “I love women who are received, and encouraged Cavalli in his the rage, opulence-loving Cavalli simply independent and free, strong willed and experimenting with different fabrics and removed himself from the world of stubborn. A strong personality is the materials. This approach led quickly to fashion and devoted himself to acquiring sexiest thing to me.” And that is reflected commissions from the Premier League of his huge estate, which came with stables in his clothes and his fragrance line (more design houses such as Hermès and Pierre – Cavalli started to keep horses and of which later). Cardin, meaning the young Cavalli tasted required his jockeys to wear bespoke silk Born in 1940 in Florence, Tuscany, success from the get-go. He presented riding outfits. You can’t keep a good man Cavalli will turn 75 this November. his first collection at the age of 32 at Prêt- down, after all… That he would go on to become a leading à-Porter’s salon in Paris, a collection he That Cavalli is well connected is designer is perhaps no coincidence as later took to the Sala Bianca at Palazzo beyond doubt. Writing back in 2009, he had artistic creativity in his DNA – Pitti in Florence. In 1980, he was a judge Vanity Fair’s Mark Seal visited Cavalli at his grandfather was Guiseppe Rossi, a at Miss World – he ended up marrying his opulent 13th-century, 36-acre estate leading light in the Italian Macchiaioli the runner-up, Miss Austria Eva in the hills outside Florence. He recounts movement whose work can be seen in Duringer. (As an aside, this was also the the following episode, which gives a little Florence’s Uffizi gallery. Like the French year that a black woman was elected Miss insight into his world of privilege: “’May I Impressionists, these artists emphasised World for the first time, Miss Trinidad speak to Sharon?’ purred Cavalli one night the natural and outdoors, championing and Tobago Janelle Commissiong.) And at his home on the outskirts of Florence, light and shade – in fact, almost the in 1994, Cavalli perfected the technique flashing a horse’s grin through the taut
120 la femme 121 LES I"ÔNES
contours of his terracotta-tanned face. He showed me the screen on his phone. It read ‘Sharon Stone’. ‘Ciao, Sharon, how are you amore mio?’ Cavalli asked in his deep baritone, holding out the phone so that I could hear Stone’s affectionate reply. ‘Why don’t you come to Italy?’ he continued. ‘I’ll be relaxing on my boat…’” He then rings Paris Hilton. “’Paris, where are you?’ ‘In Berlin, kiss kiss.’ ‘Ah baby, I miss you,’ says Cavali, passing the phone to journalist Seal, whom Paris Hilton tells, ‘I’m just obsessed with his clothes. He knows how to make dresses sexier than anybody.’” When Seal asks Hilton to name her favourite item designed by Cavalli, he interrupts, screaming “Underwear!” Another fashion writer picks up on but a way of being: a lifestyle. His is is “a dress can change your life”, and the this ability to make women feel sexy, never an intangible and highly aspirational many celebrities and friends the world mind the price, saying that the low cut and dream. over who identify with his multifaceted tight fit “slim down the hips and perk up “A questioning man and a lover of style can testify.” the behind”. life, Roberto Cavalli is able to convey Brand ambassadors read like a roll- Going back to the notion that Cavalli a great energy with whatever he does. call of the biggest names in fashion, is a lifestyle rather than simply a designer He’s an attractive person because he is music and Hollywood. Stars such – the sizzle as well as the steak – it’s always positive and close to his public… as Madonna, Sharon Stone, Drew worth looking at what eyewear partner His ability to understand, bring out and Berrymore, Demi Moore, Catherine Marcolin trumpets lavishly: “Roberto highlight the glamour hidden in every Zeta-Jones, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Cavalli is synonymous with joy and woman, and his capability to define an Paltrow, Beyoncè Knowles, Lenny optimism, with glamour and success, over-the-top but refined masculinity is Kravitz, Charlize Theron, Victoria with luxury and beauty. His world is non- unparalleled. Beckham, Kate Hudson… “are all Top: Art, sculpture and antique furniture are among conformist and free, sensual and always The fashion of Roberto ambassadors, today, of the Cavalli way of the items stored at the seductive. “Roberto Cavalli conceives Cavalli charms immediately: they give life”, pants Marcolin enthusiastically. Florence Factory. Below: The designer with models, fashion as a total experience. The style he an emotion. Cavalli is considered the Elisa Sednaoui, meanwhile, is the pictured in 1973. Opposite, proposes is not merely a way of dressing, designer of the star system. His motto image of the Roberto Cavalli perfume top: With model and actress Elisa Sednaoui at the launch of his fragrance. Sednaoui is the face of the signature fragrance. 122 la femme 123 LES I"ÔNES
Top: The designer with Elisa Sednaoui, in Dubai last year. Left and right: the Roberto Cavalli SS15 collection (also opposite page). Opposite: The factory in Florence is a treasure trove of archival objects.
in a campaign directed by Johan Renck mesmerises from the very first contact. how many designers are going back to (film) and Steven Klein (photography). At the heart of the perfume one finds the furs, this seems a minor complaint. Sednaoui embodies the Roberto delectable scent of orange blossom. It is Cavalli shows little sign of slowing Cavalli woman, this indomitable woman a colour as much as a scent that reveals down, and knowing his clients – on whom all eyes focus. Her feline eyes, an ultra-feminine trail and leaves no- beautiful women and women who want her elegance and artistic talent express one indifferent. This sensual scent wraps to feel beautiful and sexy – is at the heart themselves in fashion, film and music itself around the base notes of the Tonka of his philosophy. He puts it well himself, making her a beautiful yet creatively bean and leaves an imprint on the skin. saying: “Specifically, I’m working much talented woman, whose cinematic “A luminous and sexy print,” is how more closely with all my retail stores. work has received critical acclaim. the designer refers to the fragrance and It’s like going back to the beginning— Louise Turner, perfumer at Givaudan, the spirit of the woman who wears it, and burning the midnight oil, getting to know created the Roberto Cavalli signature like everything else the designer touches, my customers personally, visiting them fragrance. The Roberto Cavalli perfume it seems to have turned into gold, or at in cities all over the world.” belongs to the ambery floral family. It least a sun-drenched bronze. While there is love of opulence and is an exuberant and sunny fragrance Indeed, the only criticism one is likely women unafraid to make bold statements whose top notes, lit by pink peppers, to hear of Cavalli is to do with his love out of the ordinary, one suspects that exude a genuine strength of character. of animal prints and materials – from Cavalli will continue to thrive and the Vibrant and sensual, it exhilarates and ocelot to crocodile and python. Given brand to endure.
124 la femme 125 people, parties, places la societé
127 Social butterflies abounded at this season's Fashion Forward, a chance to discover the labels making waves in the Middle East. LA SOCIETÉ
FASHION FORWARD PARTY Dubai’s answer to Paris Fashion Week is an established part of the social calendar, and with the stylish fashionistas of the Middle East flocking to its front rows each year, a must-do date for the diary. The opening party, held at hot venue Friol, featured a VIP list welcomed by Fashion Forward founder Bong Guerrero, enjoying cocktails and canapés on a beautiful terrace.
128 la femme la femme 129 LA SOCIETÉ
BRITISH POLO DAY Hosted by the Habtoor Family, British Polo Day welcomed more than 700 guests to the Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club to watch a series of polo matches and enjoy the sunny atmosphere (punctuated by an unexpected shower). With sponsors Land Rover and support from Hackett, Harrod’s and Royal Salute, it was a quintessential slice of British country life in a corner of the desert. VIP participants included HH Sheikha Maitha bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, with onlookers His Grace The Duke Argyll, Prince Alexei Cantacuzene Count Speransky and an array of Dubai’s most fashionable socialites.
130 la femme la femme 131 SOLA CSOIALCIET AGENDAÉ
TUMI 40TH BIRTHDAY Luxe luggage brand Tumi celebrated 40 years with a stylish get-together at Dubai’s hot new Peruvian eatery, Coya. TUMI’s Creative Director Georges Esquivel welcomed guests for cocktails and canapés and introduced the anniversary collection entitled ‘1975', so named in honour of the year that the Italian brand was founded.
132 la femme la femme 133 134 With its signature packaging products, reviews & trends that is as elegant as the woman it is designed for, Guerlain’s new range of products – including a fabulous MaxiLash mascara, epitomises truly luxurious cosmetics. Natalia Vodianova fronts the new campaign, classy in a classic car. #a $eauté beau!' FRESH SCENT A truly MAGICAL SCENT, Penhaligon’s Ostara has been inspired by spring and warm, vibrant daffodils that are associated with the season. The BEAUTIFUL BOTTLE contains notes of juniper and spearmint contrasted with blackcurrant and clementine, GETTING LIPPY Swiftly becoming a make-up along with a sprinkle of floral aromas. bag staple, Chanel’s chic Dhs575 (100ml), Penhaligon’s glossy Rouge Coco lipstick has a rich and hydrating formula. Dhs170, Chanel
EAU SO SWEET The latest addition to Marc Jacob’s Daisy range, Sorbet, features sweet notes of jasmine, mandarin and magnolia, making it the perfect summer scent. Dhs310 (50ml), Sephora
PRETTY POUT Encompassing a lip gloss, tint and balm, YSL’s Volupté tint-in-oil is at the top of our beauty wish-list. Queen Delevigne fronts the SMOULDERING CAMPAIGN and to recreate her look opt for pared-back eye make-up, a hint PETITE CHLOÉ For a limited period, you can of blusher and BOLD, VIBRANT LIPS. now buy Chloé, Roses de Chloé and L’eau de Chloé in dainty, 20ml sizes. Dhs385 (set of three), Chloé
HOTTING UP HELLO, SUNSHINE! Summer is on its way and Bobbi Brown has released SIZZLING Though we’d ideally avoid putting a brush to combine complimentary shades to create a NEW PALETTES featuring two Guerlain’s stunning Terracota Joli Teint powder subtle, but gorgeous BRONZE GLOW. Glide shades of blush and a DAZZLING palettes — for fear of ruining the embossing — the powder across your cheekbones, temples PEARLESCENT HIGHLIGHTER — the TWO-WEEK WONDER they are set to be a BEAUTY FAVOURITE. and jaw for an effortless day look. La Prairie’s Anti-Ageing Rapid perfect contouring combination. Also Response Booster promises a With hues to suit all skin tones, the palettes Dhs575 (100ml), Penhaligon’s in the SS15 range are vibrant lip pencils reduction in the visibility of lines and wrinkles in just two weeks. and a dreamy eyeshadow palette. Dhs1,278, La Prairie
136 la femme la femme 137 m' beau!'
LAURA LAURA’S TOP 5 FARRANT BOBBI BROWN With her clean, striking ART STICK IN imagery and refreshingly 1HOT BERRY The Art Stick formula is honest posts – enough sensational and the new seasonal “hot” shades that so to earn her a spot on come in punchy hues of the Telegraph’s ‘TOP 40 pink and orange are true statement lip material. Hot BEAUTY BLOGGERS’ Berry is a current favourite. – Laura is the founder of BUY NOW/BLOG LATER. CLARINS Covering beauty, inspiring outfit posts, wish lists to leave 2 EXTRA fashionistas charging out of the door with credit cards in tow COMFORT FOUNDATION and a variety of GENERAL TOPICS, a quick lunch-time As a foundation addict I have tried them all but I always glance of Laura’s blog could soon lead to hours of browsing come back to Clarins Extra through the archives – you have been warned. Comfort. It magically perfects and hydrates, leaving skin soft and generously covered.
I like to feel groomed while avoiding My beauty icon is Olivia Palermo. She CLINIQUE appearing as though I’m caked in is just ‘glossy’. That is the only word that 3 SCULPTIONARY product. Although my beauty style fits. She has great style, great skin and BLUSH IN DEFINING PINKS changes – depending on how much time of course, great hair. She looks like she I am constantly chasing a blusher I have to get ready and how experimental has injected care into her appearance, that will impart that “lit from I’m feeling – on a daily basis, the look I but seldom comes across as contrived. within” glow; this is the best I have found yet. One swirl leaves you like to adopt is: a good medium-coverage She often opts for minimal, but looking illuminated and fresh. base, a light blush glow, a glossy nude lip, defined makeup that enhances her best a neutral eye and well-defined lashes features. and brows. The same goes for my hair, I like it to be smooth, but not perfectly set. The best beauty advice I’ve been given PETER is that not everyone looks good in a red 4 THOMAS I’d describe my beauty style as ‘faux lip. I avoided a bold lip entirely because I ROTH PUMPKIN ENZYME MASK carefree’. I want to look natural and can’t work the shade at all, but I realised This is a powerful yet gentle effortless, but it does take work to that it’s all about finding the right bright exfoliating treatment packed achieve that look. hue that works with your skin tone and full of alpha hydroxy acids. I use it once a week for smooth, features. For me it was raspberry and even skin. I should also A little bit of grooming goes a long way, tangerine tones. mention that it smells divine. so if my nails are manicured, my brows tamed and my hair blown out, I feel I used to fear hitting 30, but now that I a boost of self-esteem. However, the am there I am fully embracing it. Society EYLURE ultimate solution to feeling confident seems to put a sad spin on getting older, 5 FALSE and beautiful isn’t about spa treatments but I’m happy to be out of the awkward LASHES IN 143 Since discovering these, I or products – it’s how you live your life. transitioning twenties. Of course you have become an addict. I I’ve started eating clean and drinking see changes in your skin and body, but snip each strip in half and more water and the difference it makes it shouldn’t be assumed to be a negative wear them on the edge of my eyelids – with the longer is unrivalled by anything you could buy thing that requires sympathy and plastic lashes resting at the end. It in a beauty department. surgery intervention. gives you an instant lift.
138 la femme la femme 139 Dress, Dhs1,150, Michael Kors. Cosmetics: Gucci Magnetic Color Shadow Quad 040 in 'Autumn Fire'. MAC 'Cherry' Lip Pencil. Benefit Brightening Face Primer in 'That Gal'.
ABST#A!T EXP#ESSION
PHOTOGRAPHY: ARJAY NAVARRO // STYLING: STUART ROBERTSON HAIR & MAKE-UP: KATIE COUSINS // MODELS: ALEX P @ LUSH
140 la femme la femme 141 Dress, Dhs1,990, Dress, Dhs1,150, MaxMara. Cosmetics: Michael Kors. Dior Kingdom of Cosmetics: Guerlain Colors Palette. Baby Glow Meteorites. NARS All Day Luminous Guerlain Poudre de Soie Weightless Foundation . Illuminating Powder. Bobbi Brown 'Dusty NARS Duo Pallet in Pink' Art Stick. 'Mad Mad World'. Illamasqua Powder Eyeshadow in 'Hype'.
142 la femme la143 femme 143 Dress, Dhs1,150, Michael Kors. Cosmetics: Gucci Magnetic Color Shadow Quad 040 in 'Autumn Fire'. MAC 'Cherry' Lip Pencil. Benefit Brightening Face Primer in 'That Gal'.
144 la femme 145 146 Cosmetics: Sephora Cosmetics: Benefit Velvet Eyeshadow in Creaseless Cream 'Creamy Green'. Eyeshadow in 'Always Illamasqua Pure a Bridesmaid'. Pigment in 'Static'. Isadora Eye Colour Bar Benefit Lip Colour in '60 Nude Essentials.' in 'Talk Flirty.' Benefit 'Lolli Tint'. MAC Lip Gloss in Benefit Ultra Lush Lip 'Boundless Energy'. Gloss in 'Kiss You'.
la femme 147 LA BEAUTÉ
BULGARI POUR FEMME EAU DE PARFUM, Dhs306 for 40ml and Dhs380 for 65ml, leading beauty counters (pictured here is a 25ml version of the fragrance).
GARDEN of EDEN WALK STRAIGHT INTO TEMPTATION WITH THESE DELECTABLE BEAUTIES THAT WHISPER OF SUMMER EVENINGS
PHOTOGRAPHY: ROBERT JAMES NAVARRO // STYLING: STUART ROBERTSON
148 la femme 149 LA BEAUTÉ
1. CHANEL SUMMER 2015 MÉDITERRANÉE LUMIÈRE D'ETÉ BRONZING POWDER IN GOLDEN BRONZE, Dhs308.40, exclusively at Chanel beauty counters. 2. JO MALONE BLACKBERRY AND BAY COLOGNE 100ML, Dhs600 at Jo Malone boutiques. 150 la femme 151 LA BEAUTÉ
1. 212 VIP ROSE BY CAROLINA HERRERA EAU DE PARFUM, Dhs410 (80ml), leading beauty counters. 2. NARS LIPSTICK IN 'SCHIAP', Dhs140, exclusively at Sephora. 152 la femme 153 154 Hotel de Paris is a jewel in the crown of Monaco; its Salle Empire is an award-winning fine dining restaurant beloved of Monte Carlo’s influential diners, who gather beneath gilded ceiling arches for the ultimate in power lunching. The food, needless to say, is as spectacular as the the art of living well restaurant, with impeccably presented plates as elegant as the discreet clientele. SAVOIR VIVRE
A PLAYGROUND FOR THE SENSES INIALA BEACH HOUSE WELCOMES FAMILIES
Luxury and exclusivity rarely go hand in hand with a setting where children are free to let their imagination run wild and explore, but The Kids Hotel at Iniala Beach House is an exception, an opulent 10-suite private residence where luxury comes as standard. Situated in idyllic Phuket, the residence is the ultimate family destination. Adults are spoilt for choice with in-villa spa treatments, Michelin-starred eateries and an array of activities and excursions, while The Kids Hotel, with its fully trained caregivers, allows parents to unwind knowing that their little ones are having the time of their lives too. American children’s furniture designer Chris Jones has created a space where kids are transported to an imaginative place, while in-house dining, with healthy choices made by experienced chefs, ensures the fun doesn’t stop at meal times either. Sleeping quarters disguised as castles, treehouses and caves, closets filled with dressing up DESTINATION costumes and video games, crafts, climbing walls and sports, all ensure smaller guests are entertained during their stay, leaving with memories to last a lifetime. WELLNESS www.iniala.com A JOURNEY OF HEALING REDISCOVERY AWAITS AT THE EXCEPTIONAL PALACE MERANO! WRITES HELEN BLICK
ENRI!HING MOMENTS A PRIVATE SANCTUARY! A HOME FOR THE HEART
magine reinventing yourself, escaping the stress of life and loss and beauty treatments and you can book treatments for wellbeing Inspired by the island’s stately turn-of-the-century plantation restoring harmony between your mind and body. At Palace Merano, of body and mind while dieticians and doctors ensure health is at the houses, Residence Mauritius blends modern elegance with classic, Ia spirit of wellbeing and transformation allows you to change gear, forefront, passing on knowledge in how to eat for better living, lose colonial style, enveloping you in a sense of nostalgia. Add in cuisine let go and put yourself first. weight effectively and rediscover wellbeing through small, everyday that captures the incredible mélange of island flavours, and a spa Merano in Italy boasts a mild, healthful climate, shielded to the acts. Menwhile, in a cool, white, environment, the Espace medical haven to discover soulful relaxation and you could have the perfect north and east by magnificent mountain chains. This sets the scene for centre’s Revital treatment space offers a range of innovative services destination. Situated on the east coast of Mauritius along a mile- the breathtaking natural views that greet you on arrival and continue to from revitalising vitamin infusions to ozone therapy, all overseen by long beach of immaculate white sand, fringed by the crystal-clear inspire throughout your stay. a medical team. All analysis and diagnostics takes place here, using Indian Ocean and tropical gardens, the Residence Mauritius is an The Palace Hotel opened its doors in 1906; a style, inspired by the extensive state-of-the-art laboratory facilities, including a body idyllic retreat, ranked by the International Union for Conservation luxury hotels of the Côte d’Azur, boasted neo-classical architecture scanner, which means immediate results can be shared with clients. of Nature as having the third highest amount of endangered flora in and ensured that the dignitaries of that age flocked to enjoy the pure, A team of doctors, nutritionists and therapists are on hand to the world. The Residence offers guests the chance to discover more dry air and the impeccable service that embraced guests in a soporific create a wellness programme that is suited to your personal needs, about its plant life, accompanied by an expert from the Mauritian cocoon. Renovated over the years, it retains its original splendour. and ensures you return home feeling balanced, revitalised and Wildlife Foundation, to the tiny coral island of Ile aux Aigrettes. Today, Espace Henri Chenot is at the heart of Palace Merano. It is ready to confront anything with a positive attitude. With a stirling Guests can discover flora and fauna found nowhere else on earth, home to a treatment centre, founded on the principles of Biontology, reputation for excellence, Palace Merano is more than just a hotel, it is as well as catching glimpses of the rare pink pigeon, endangered as well as a Wellness Centre and Spa in the hotel. Espace Henri the beginning of a new and improved you. skinks and of course the giant tortoise: luxury with a conscience. Chenot offers programmes for detoxification, regeneration, weight www.palace.it www.theresidence.com/mauritius
156 la femme 157 SAVOIR VIVRE
The royal palace overlooks the bijoux principality and its iconic harbour, where the world’s elite come to play. AZURE ALLURE SUN-DRENCHED AND FABULOUS! MONTE CARLO IS A CINEMATIC PLAYGROUND THAT OOZES OLD-WORLD STYLE
f you’ve ever wondered what the perfect shade of blue was, you’ll glamorous. It plays host, annually, to the Monaco Grand Prix, is known find it in elegant, chic and wealthy Monaco. The coastline echoes for its James-Bond-style Casino and exclusive nightclubs, and offers Ithe cerulean vibe; not for nothing is this corner of Southern Europe a year-round array of artistic and cultural happenings to entertain its known as the Cote d’Azur, and the indigo, turquoise and sapphire 30,000-something residents and million-plus annual visitors. waters that lap languidly along Monte Carlo’s beachfront are undeniably But it wasn’t always such a well-heeled concourse for the rich. At photogenic. It’s no surprise that the world’s second-smallest country the beginning of the 1860s, Monaco was a backwater that relied on sea (at a bijoux 2.2 square kilometres) is home to impeccable summer trade taxes for a modest income. It was the opening of its Casino in 1863 skies: with some of the world’s wealthiest people and an equally rich that turned the fortunes of Monte Carlo around, allowing a deluge of heritage, they’ve had time to get things just-so. Impeccable attention cash to be diverted from the careless hands of aristocratic dilettantes to detail is everywhere in Monaco: from the beautifully restored and into what was to become the foundations of Monegasque society. historical buildings with their ornate gilt ceilings and lashings of Luxurious hotels followed; the Hotel de Paris in 1864, Monte- marble, to the elegance of citizens who wouldn’t dream of flashing their Carlo Beach Hotel in 1929 and at the turn of the century, the palatial designer labels too ostentatiously... just a flash of Prada or Chanel here Hermitage. Driving this growth almost as much as the money was a or there - classy and sophisticated. Even the precisely plated dishes visionary businessman – Francois Blanc – whose future-forward served up in Monte-Carlo’s Michelin-flecked dining establishments vision of Monaco as a destination resort where visitors could demand seem to radiate a confidence that whispers of impeccable taste. Monte “everything, immediately and in one place” became the blueprint for Carlo has long been synonymous as a playground for the affluent and the principality. He invented the concept of the resort and in 1966,
158 la femme la femme 159 SAVOIR VIVRE
following is advice to King Charles III, the Plateau des Spélugues (Monaco’s descriptive name at that time - it means Plateau of Caves) was renamed Monte Carlo, ostensibly in honour of the King, but, one suspects, ultimately all part of Blanc’s branding exercise to create his own tourism paradise. His company, the Societé de Bains de Mer, is still the largest tourism company in Monaco; it owns a portfolio of hotels and clubs – think of SBM as Monaco’s answer to Jumeirah Group – formidable, powerful, and impeccably versed in luxury. SBM was truly a precursor and redefined the idea of what it meant to travel; previously the Grand Tour, with its cultural stops and education-based travelling, was still the accepted way for young European dignitaries to see the world. Now, they Hotel Hermitage came, they stayed… and they partied. (interior and exterior Today, beneath those beautiful blue shown on this page) skies, visitors can discover an array offers a focal point for Monaco’s elite leisure of tantalising activities to see them activities, with stunning from morning until sunrise. There are ballrooms, award- winning restaurants activities from the unhurried to the almost and an abundance competitive: the Thermes Marins Spa, a FOR UAE HISTORY BUFFS of elegant charm. sprawling, semi-subterranean affair in pristine white boasts 37 treatment rooms, EAGER FOR AN OLD WORLD a sea water pool, sauna, solarium, gym and FIX, MONACO IS THE PLACE IN WHICH even a fully kitted out Hammam for the ultimate in Middle Eastern indulgence. TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN BEAUTY There are parachutes, wakeboarding, jet- AND HERITAGE. skis and golf; the Country Club, with its 18- hole golf course, is surprisingly affordable at just EUR43 per person. The principality Lavish interiors are something that the finest in the world – home to almost is eminently walkable, and there is no Monte-Carlo does very well, and for 600,000 bottles, it is a treasure trove. excuse not to discover it all on foot, UAE history buffs eager for an old world Le Bar Americain, with its live music and especially when the scope and range of its fix, Monaco is the place in which to dark wooden décor, is a destination bar, dining (more of which shortly) means that immerse yourself in beauty and heritage. fabled for its celebrity clientele as much as any reason to burn extra calories should be It is everywhere – from the glamour of its cocktails; even the Crown Prince is said welcomed; the boutiques alone ought to be Monaco’s Casino, to the Opera House – to occasionally pop in. The hotel has been ample incentive to stroll. the only one in the world with a sea view – featured in several films including two The Prince of Monaco’s palace is and of course, to the rooms and suites of its James Bond films, GoldenEye and Never Say partially open to the public. It’s testament to finest hotels. Never Again; Monte Carlo’s cinematic allure the safety and intimacy of the country that The Hermitage, with its palatial rooms is undeniable; it has been the backdrop to you may catch a glimpse of His Highness and jaw-dropping décor, is one of Monte various films such as The Jewel of the Nile, sweeping past in his car (as La Femme did). Carlo’s most exquisite properties, though and To Catch a Thief, which starred Grace The hilltop Palace, a once fortified enclave, the Hotel de Paris is probablymore famous, Kelly and immortalised the princess of has a recorded guided tour, which includes on the doorstep of Casino Square. Its 182 Monaco in celluloid in her future home. a welcome from the Prince, an insight rooms are beautifully decorated, with Monaco continues to give visitors a royal into the history of the rooms that have Louis XVI-style chairs, and of course no welcome today. been home to the ruling Grimaldi family luxury room is complete without flatscreen Emirates has a daily direct flight to Nice, for more than seven centuries. Lavishly TVs and wifi. Restaurants include Le Louis which is around 30 minutes by car from Monte decorated in a style that evokes the Palace XV-Alain Ducasse and Salle Empire, both Carlo. Business flights in May start from of Versailles, these are still used as function of which are resplendent in ornate gilding; Dhs19,975 return. See www.emirates.com for rooms for official engagements. the hotel’s wine cellar meanwhile is among latest prices.
160 la femme 161 m' !ravels
NADA DEBS An internationally successful furniture designer based in Dubai, Nada’s LEBANESE ROOTS and FAR EASTERN STYLE honed through a childhood spent in Japan, combine together to create her distinctive style of work. Inspired by her love of travel, Nada admits that “travel is From Maldivian luxury, a necessity whether it is for Japanese zen, to culture in Kashmir, work or pleasure.” it’s the colours and impressions of travel that infuse the unique designs of Nada Debs.
My favourite holiday has to be Kashmir, I often visit Japan. It always keeps me because of the beauty of the country and stimulated. But I also love the islands the stunning natural surroundings. I in the Mediterranean Sea, from Turkey found the place very inspiring. to Greece to Italy. Every time I visit and leave these places I feel rejuvenated and For me, a holiday has to be a combination creative and I can’t wait to get back to work of relaxation and culture. As a designer I to incorporate what I found and saw into am inspired by my surroundings so I tend my work. to visit places that can give me a little bit of relaxation but – more so – a lot of culture. The last place I went on holiday was to G’staad. As soon as I landed I fell The world has so many different and in love with it. It was beautiful—the unique places, which as a designer I love mountains, the nature, the village and to absorb and use to my advantage. I am the people, so breathtakingly stunning inspired by the places I visit no matter and picturesque. My trip to Xian in how long I am there for, one day or 10. I China was very different but also love discovering new places and always interesting as it was one of the stops of take a piece of it away with me through my the Silk Route, where I feel that a lot of designs. my inspiration comes from.
Vacations are eye-openers, whether it I travel a lot for work. I am truly is a cultural eye-opener, or meeting the fortunate that the Nada Debs brand has people of that country or even noticing been so successful and it is through my the hotel design and services. Everything work that I get to visit amazing places all has a meaning or purpose behind it and I over the world. It is on these visits that I love discovering what that might be. It is am inspired, which to me makes travel through these kind of interactions that I a necessity regardless whether it is for get inspiration for my designs. work or pleasure.
162 la femme 163 m' !ravels
THE IDEA OF A VAC ATION CONJURES UP IN MY MIND BEING BY THE SEA,AND FEELING THAT SENSE OF ESCAPISM.”
— NADA DEBS
The novelty of any location is more important than ensuring luxury or If there was one place on earth that I imagination can go wild and I have a comfort, says Nada of could travel back in time and go back moment to myself just to relax, enjoy the destinations that to, it would have to be India. I fell in love and take in the calmness of the water. are on her bucket list. Her desire to explore instantly with that stunning continent. has seen her discover India is full of so much culture, I have a flexible approach to being on hidden gems in Greece, ambiance and tradition, and for me holiday. The newness of any location China, India and Japan. that is just a perfect combination. is more important than ensuring luxury or comfort. I relish being able to When it comes to hotels, I don’t really discover new places and if that means have a favourite one that I go always going for comfort over luxury, then so back to — I do like the Firmdale Hotel be it. chain in London, the Park Hotel in Gstaad, and the Bulgari Hotel in My holiday attire tends to reflect that Milan. The most luxurious hotel break approach and I usually pack a more that I’ve personally experienced was relaxed wardrobe than I would wear when I went to the Maldives and stayed during my working week. at the One & Only Reethi Rah. We had a private villa complete with private I am planning to travel to the beach and even a private concierge. Greek islands this year… it is such a refreshing destination, with such The idea of a vacation conjures up in unique serenity and beauty. I never my mind being by the sea,and feeling get bored there and I always discover that sense of escapism where my something new to see.
164 la femme la femme 165 SAVOIR VIVRE
SASS $AFÉ THE FLAVOURS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN MEETS THE 'SASS' OF DUBAI AT THIS ELEGANT EUROPEAN EATERY.
BY JOLA CHUDY
The original Sass Café is a fixture of slowly filling up as the night wore on, with excellent olive oil and ripe, juicy cherry Monegasque nightlife; a boudoir-esque a boisterous group of city financiers to one tomatoes and a tuna tartate with a piquant restaurant that metamorphosises into a side of us and an elegant flock of women avocado cream. Both these appetisers nightclub as diners put down their cutlery on the other. It’s a favourite of the city’s were instant crowd pleasers yet both were and raise their arms ceiling-wards. discerning foodies, sophisticated and beautifully presented The creation of its legendary owner, the Sass undoubtedly has excellent in a way that perfectly matched the alliteration-embracing Mr Samy Sass, credentials when it comes to the décor, surroundings. A beet salad with goat’s Sass Café opened its doors in Monaco with oversized chandeliers, a red velvet cheese and a sea scallop carpaccio were in 1991, and has barely stopped since, ceiling feature (that comes straight from the other two options on the menu. For become a beloved and fashionable haunt Sass Monaco) and beautiful backlit floor- main course, a beef tenderloin with morel for the principality’s wealthy, hard- to-ceiling panels offset by stencilled lights sauce came served on a sauce of velvety partying night owls. and black velvet couches. There is even a smooth celery purée; the dish generously And while some things don’t travel marble-topped grand piano complete with flecked with wafer-thin slices of truffle well, it’s clear as soon as you step inside two excellent evening singers who cover and wrinkly little morels. the Dubai reinterpretation of Sass that classics old and new, enveloping the space The beef was cooked perfectly as they’ve taken the best of its décor and in the smoky sounds of their velvet voices. requested and was tender and flavourful; food, and then given it a top-to-toe, Of course, what it all comes down a citrus-grilled fillet of cod with grilled unabashedly Dubai treatment. And it to is the food, and this is as beautifully asparagus equally satisfying. Vegetarians has made the leap from a smaller, older presented and elegant as you’d expect – could choose a ricotta and Burrata ravioli space in Monaco, to this soaring, open- and it delivers on taste, too. The cuisine instead. The meal concluced with an plan cathedral to dining and lavish living is that southern French/Mediterranean exceptional baked cheesecake featuring with the kind of style and grace you would fare that is as delicious as it is surprisingly a cherry foam and scoop of sorbet. The expect from someone used to jetsetting light; so you won’t find heavy French menu is available with a fantastic wine between Monaco and Dubai. stews or rich, sauce-drenched dishes but pairing whereby there is a glass with each As one of the restaurant’s waiters instead a burst of freshness and flavour on of the three courses; what better way to proudly points out, Sass Dubai has beautifully colourful dishes. experience the flavour and ambience of been open for over a year now. And it’s On our visit, we sampled a special Monte Carlo right here in Dubai? doing a brisk trade. Although we dined tasting menu that celebrates one year of www.sasscafe-dubai.ae, +971 (4) 352 7722, unfashionably early at 7, the double- Sass Café in Dubai. Entrees included a Al Fattan Currency House Tower 2, Podium height restaurant and bar area began deliciously creamy, milky buratta with Level, DIFC 167 Step inside the velvet- clad interior of Sass Café and discover a taste of Monaco’s VIP lifestyle right here in Dubai.
166 la femme SAVOIR VIVRE
MZUNGU AT LA GALERIE NATIONALE In the second UAE solo show for Beiruti photographer Christian Ghammachi, themes of beauty in the unexpected are explored through a series of portraits and photographs. Twenty-five new pieces are on show, the result of the artist’s solo motorbike journey across Africa, from Cape Town to Djibouti, in 2014. In a trip entitled Two Wheels Across, Ghammachi drove through 16 African countries and over 19,000 kilometres. His photographs depict the people, places and objects encountered along the way. The series and the show is called ‘Mzungu’, a Swahili word for someone who wanders. Having lived in Cape Town for two years, and now based in Dubai, Ghammachi returned to Africa to explore its people and places; he was injured in a crash but returned in 2014 for a successful journey and the photographs in this show are the result of that trip. His passion for photography spans more than 20 years and has seen him embark upon journeys of visual exploration. The selection of images includes an abandoned hotel in Xai Xai, Mozambique, or 19th century church in Tanzania, as well as images of Africa’s people. Mzungu, The Aimless Wanderer will be showing at La Galerie Nationale (www.galerie-nationale.com) from 18 May 2015
ARABIC EARTHLY DELIGHTS CALLIGRAPHY THE KOREAN ARTIST CHAE SUNG-PIL CREATES PAINTINGS USING SOIL COLLECTED FROM HIS JOURNEYS AROUND THE GLOBE. OPERA GALLERY DUBAI PRESENTS HIS LATEST WORKS EXHIBITION The eighth edition of the Dubai Culture and Arts Authority- hosted calligraphy exhibition takes place this month at Wafi Mall. Featuring examples of traditional and contemporary calligraphy by pre-eminent artists of this genre, the show is wholly dedicated to showcasing the aesthetics of this art. n the first major solo exhibition of Korean artist Chae Sung-Pil, locations is also a comment on the vastness and compactness of our “Arabic calligraphy is one of the leading expressions of creativity the earthy textures and natural landscapes observed by the artist planet; as is the use of two of the five elements of nature - soil and of the written word and its expression has its origins in Islamic Iduring his travels are reimagined in a series of abstract paintings. water. “I love earth,” says the artist. “Every time I touch earth, I feel heritage. The exhibition features classical as well as modern The exhibition, entitled ‘Wild Grasses, Sandy Dunes’ reveals a series like a boy playing in earth. When drawing with earth, I feel so good — calligraphy, highlighting the role of integrating this artform, of new works from the artist’s studio that embody the artist’s singular as if embraced by my mother. I love earth, because it never changes, a part of Arabian heritage and culture, with modern artistic philosophy of earth-palette paintings. The artist’s soil palette, even when everything in this world does.” His canvases, which reveal expressions,” said Dr Salah Al Qassim, Advisor to the Dubai collected from various trips around the world, is the unusual medium his broad brush strokes and rivulets of water, are on show at Dubai’s Culture & Arts Authority. The exhibition will showcase the use by which he expresses and explores his perception of the rich diversity Opera Gallery throughout this month until May 27. The artist has of Arabic calligraphy outside the usual context and will feature of the natural landscape. His soils are filtered and diluted with water, previously shown his work at Art Basel and London Art Fair, but this sections such as Classic Calligraphy, by renowned artists. There before being mixed with glue, mud and Chinese ink. This mixture is is his first major solo show in the Middle East. will also be several pieces from the collection of the Ministry of then applied to canvas to create textures that evoke the textures and Chae Sung-Pil’s paintings are on display at The Opera Gallery from May Culture as well as those owned by leading collectors in the UAE. natural patterns of the earth. The use of soil sourced from different 13 to May 27, 2015. The exhibition takes place at Wafi Mall until May 15
168 la femme la femme 169 SAVOIR VIVRE
“LIFE STARTS AND ENDS WITH WOMEN” LEBANESE ARTIST MOUNA REBEIZ TELLS EUGENE COSTELLO ABOUT HER ENDLESS FASCINATION WITH THE HUMAN PSYCHE
ouna Rebeiz, glamorous and beautiful as an ex-model I come from a very big family that is Greek Orthodox in Beirut, we ought to be, is 57, though with fine olive skin and lustrous have a historical background, and my dad always worked abroad so Mblack her that curls down around her shoulders, she that is why it was easy for us to leave Beirut when the war started, could pass at first glance as 20 years younger. Like a more stunning when I was 17.” Minnie Driver, in fact.“That is because I am an artist,” she tells me, That move was to Paris in 1975, where she lived permanently until “so I have a young soul. When the soul is young, the body follows.” last year — “now I live between Paris and London. Paris was my dad’s We start with a little background, when I ask whether she was choice because we are French-educated.” She attended the Sorbonne, born in Lebanon. “Beirut,” she emphasises. Clearly well educated, where she studied psychology — a fascination with the human psyche and a fluent French speaker — “everyone in Beirut speaks three that is one theme in her work — and also worked as a model. So how languages” — I ask whether she was born to middle-class stock. did she become an artist? “No!” she interjects, “Not at all!” I am expecting the usual “Par hasard,” she replies immediately. “How do you say? By protestations of poverty that one receives when one suggests that random.” She then corrects herself: “Even though I don’t believe in someone might have been born into a privileged life, but I am random, there is always a connection somehow. I never wanted to 171 French-Lebanese artist barking up the wrong tree: “I was not middle-class!” she declares. paint in my life, it is my eldest sister who dragged me into this. I had Mouna Rebeiz with “I was upper-class!” She clarifies: “I don’t like to speak of class but worked as a model and also in fashion and design, but then I got her daughter at the launch of her first solo exhibition in London, ‘Le Tarbouche’. Saatchi Gallery, London, February 2015.
170 la femme SAVOIR VIVRE
In tandem with the exhibition of her paintings, the artist asked a group of internationally known designers and artists to reinvent a Tarbouche in their own style. The Tarbouches were auctioned by Sotheby’s to support the charity in support Innocence in Danger.
married in 1985, when I was 26,] and we “It has been a progression,” says Rebeiz laughs. “Who knows? But I think left to Montreal for four years. When I came Rebeiz. “For ten years from when I met it will be less sensual, more — how do you back [in 1996], I met Alix de la Source.” Alix I copied the Old Masters, especially say? Robotique? Anyway, less human, more WHAT DO YOU De la Source was to be instrumental in Reubens. For the next five years I began to synthetic. It is a shame because with it, awakening the artist in Rebeiz, inculcating work on the theme of women. For me, it is sense and feeling will disappear, I fear. The THINK OF MY in her an appreciation of the Old Masters all about the body, and about flesh.” essence of life will vanish, we will lose our SHOW LE TARBOUCHE? and the technical side of painting. Her Rebeiz revisited the work of Gustave transcendental dimension. As Goethe says first foray into the world of painting was Courbet, in particular his provocative in Faust: ‘Feeling is all: Names are sound IS IT POLITICAL? SOCIAL? to replicate the work of the Old Masters — 1866 work, L’Origine du Monde. A and smoke, veiling Heaven’s bright glow.’” ANTHROPOLOGICAL?” which she did, flawlessly. So this artistic controversial piece, it focuses on a woman’s Rebeiz bridles at the idea that her ability, untested, untutored, was — what? lower body in bed. It is ultra-realism, and work is political. “What do you think of " MOUNA REBEIZ — innate? Intuitive? leaves little to the imagination. my show Le Tarbouche? Is it political? “I don’t know!” exclaims Rebeiz. “It This idea, of womanhood as the origin Social? Anthropological?” Le Tarbouche was in there somewhere but it was hidden of the world, chimes and resonates with takes the “tarbouche” (also known as from me. I knew nothing of it until I met Rebeiz’s own outlook: “I have always the fez), a symbol of male, patriarchal Alix and everything popped out.” chosen to work with women,” she says, authority throughout the Middle East. I ask how long it took to get to the point “because life starts and ends with women.” I reply that it is all to do with the context of being a commercially successful artist She warms to her theme. Her work in which the viewer is seeing it, that in who exhibits in London, Paris and, next is, she says, all about femininity and certain Gulf and Islamic states, it could be up, Miami. Rebeiz laughs: “Oh, I am not sensuality. “I would say that my work is a viewed as dangerously political, seditious, commercially successful,” she says with vision from the interior of femininity.” I even. “No, I prefer to say that I wish to disarming candour. “I don’t think I make a understand that life begins with women undermine the dominance of man, that living from it — but I will, I will!” — in the very act of birth, hence the focus it is all a masquerade. I do not claim to be She goes on to explain, with charming on Coubert’s work — but how does it end political, but I do wish to stand against the frankness, that money is not an issue with women? degradation of women, whether it is in the for her, so that when she sells works, She explains that when women stop Middle East, China, Japan, wherever.” she typically gives the money to one of giving birth — “when woman stops She finishes by summarising: “I a number of favoured charities, some carrying children” — that will be the end am not a feminist. I believe women are Lebanese, and also a heart charity. of humanity “in this form” as we know it. emancipated in their own minds. We We turn to her philosophy — what does This form of humanity? What will it give just need to stop the degradation of art mean, what does she want it to mean? way to? women in society.”
172 la femme 173 TIMELESS ELEGANCE AND CLASSIC STYLE! REINTERPETED FOR THE DISCERNING MODERN WOMAN. DIR($TORY
Furla ...... 04 341 0285 Galeries Lafayette ...... 04 382 7333 Garrard ...... 04 339 8386 Gas ...... 04 341 3010 )-D Gérard Darel ...... 04 339 9780 N-Q 3.1 Phillip Lim...... Boutique 1 Gina ...... 04 339 8672 Narcisco Rodriguez ...... Harvey Nichols Areej ...... 04 340 5223 Giorgio Armani ...... 04 339 8121 Omega...... 04 339 8307 Armani Dubai ...... 04 339 8121 Givenchy ...... 04 330 8282 Oscar de la Renta ...... 04 339 9005 Azal...... 04 330 0730 Glashütte Original ...... 04 339 8762 Ounass ...... 04 368 6559 Balenciaga ...... 04 330 0564 Gucci ...... 04 339 8953 Paris Gallery ...... 04 294 1111 Banana Republic ...... 04 294 1163 Guess ...... 04 339 9185 Paul & Joe ...... 04 232 9469 Blancpain ...... 04 355 9633 Harvey Nichols ...... 04 409 8888 Paul Smith ...... 04 359 0099 Bloomingdale’s ...... 04 350 5333 H Stern ...... 04 350 5333 Paule Ka ...... 04 325 3225 Bulgari ...... 04 330 8834 Hugo Boss...... 04 341 0630 Pepe ...... 04 295 6113 Calvin Klein ...... 04 352 5244 Pinko ...... 04 232 9333 Breguet ...... 04 339 8756 Prada, Mall of the Emirates 04 304 9700 Car Shoe ...... 04 501 6930 Saks BurJuman...... 04 501 2870 Carl F Bucherer ...... 04 232 9833 Level Shoe District...... 04 501 6990 Carolina Herrera ...... 04 341 5095 Pucci ...... 04 232 9333 Cartier ...... 04 330 0034 Chanel ...... 04 382 7100 Chopard ...... 04 339 8333 Christian Louboutin ...... Harvey Nichols Citizens of Humanity ...... Boutique 1 Coach ...... 04 339 8670 Coccinelle ...... 04 355 8528 I-M Comme des Garçons ...... IF Boutique Iceberg ...... 04 330 8004 Cortefiel ...... 04 232 8084 Issa ...... Harvey Nichols R-U Debenhams ...... 04 340 7575 Issey Miyake...... Saks Ralph Lauren ...... 04 352 5311 D&G ...... Saks IWC ...... 04 339 8111 Rivoli Prestige ...... 04 3303264 Damas ...... 04 341 0633 J Brand ...... Boutique 1 Roberto Cavalli ...... 04 341 4341 David Morris ...... 04 434 3888 Jacques Dessange ...... 04 343 9222 Saks Fifth Avenue ...... 04 351 5551 De Beers ...... 04 341 2121 Jaeger ...... 04 324 9838 Salvatore Ferragamo ...... 04 351 2323 Derek Lam ...... Harvey Nichols Jean Paul Gaultier ...... 04 339 8249 See by Chloè ...... Boutique 1 Diane von Furstenberg...... Boutique 1 Jil Sander ...... 04 382 5250 Sephora ...... 04 232 6023 Diesel...... 04 341 1395 Jimmy Choo ...... 04 324 9838 Sergio Rossi ...... 04 330 1177 DKNY ...... 04 351 3788 Kani Home ...... 04 368 5408 Seven for all Mankind ...... 050 454 9558 Dolce & Gabbana ...... 04 341 0626 Karen Millen ...... 04 295 5007 Stella McCartney ...... 04 339 9179 Donna Karan ...... 04 351 6794 Kaya Skin Clinic...... 04 336 9081 Swarovski ...... 04 341 1084 Dries Van Noten ...... 04 351 5551 Kenzo ...... 04 351 9449 Tiffany & Co...... 04 341 0655 DSquared2...... 04 324 2333 Kitson ...... 04 324 2446 Tod’s ...... 04 355 4417 Dumond ...... 04294 3505 Kurt Geiger ...... 04 341 3883 Toi & Moi ...... 04 330 8300 Dune ...... 04 341 0501 Lanvin ...... 04 330 8008 dVf...... Harvey Nichols, Levi’s ...... 04 351 6728 Boutique 1 Longines ...... 04 351 6728 Louis Vuitton...... 04 3592535 Marc by Marc Jacobs ...... 04 232 6118 Marc Jacobs ...... 04 341 1202 Massimo Dutti ...... 04 295 0861 Matthew Williamson ...... 04 339 8069 MaxMara ...... 04 351 3140 V-Z Michael Kors ...... Harvey Nichols Missoni ...... 04 339 8686 Van Cleef & Arpels ...... 04 351 0001 MiuMiu Saks Fifth Avenue 04 501 2872 Vera Wang ...... Saks SUBSCRIBE"TO # FEMME"AND"RECEIVE"YOUR"MONTHLY MiuMiu Level Shoe District . 04501 6605 Versace ...... 04 324 7333 CONSIGNMENT"OF"ELEGANT! C#SSIC"STYLE! HAND$DELIVERED (-H Monet & Co ...... 04 341 1995 Whistles ...... 04 341 0951 Emanuel Ungaro ...... 04 355 7922 Montblanc ...... 04 3414451 YSL ...... 04 330 0445 BY"COURIER. SUBSCRIPTIONS"AVAI#BLE"WORLDWIDE. Express ...... 04 330 8126 Moschino Cheap & Chic ... Harvey Nichols Zenith ...... 04 339 8104 Fendi ...... 04 351 1833 Mulberry ...... 04 339 8990 visit www.lafemmemag.com
174 la femme FINAL WORDS WE MAKE SEARCHING FOR PROPERTY A LUXURY our imagination as much for her look as for her lines. And that fascination doesn’t dissipate when you switch the box off — the fashion industry has cottoned on to it too. Welcome to the first true luxury real estate portal, dedicated to helping you find a luxury “It’s been amazing, the effect that Mad Men has had on fashion,” says the home. From the properties we offer, to the fluid experience of the site’s navigation, show’s costume designer Janie Bryant, everything has been tailored to ensure you have a luxurious experience, every step of whose 1950s to late 1960s stylings not only launched a thousand vintage shopping the way. Start the experience now, and visit luxsqft.com sprees but also a spin-off collection at Banana Republic. “After the first season aired, there were girls wearing Joan and Television shows such as Mad Men have had Peggy dresses on the runway at Michael a direct influence on the fashion industry, such as in Banana Republic's recent collection Kors and Prada.” inspired by the clothes worn on the show. What the show had done, despite close attention to historical accuracy, was to demonstrate how modern these clothes are. Peggy Olson’s layered shift dresses and polo necks, her preppy cardigans, TV: THE ULTIMATE A-line skirts and bobbysoxer plaids, are neat, easy and practical. Minus a FASHION INSPIRATION neckerchief or two, they are what fashion editors call “of the moment”. Who doesn’t FROM CLAIRE UNDERWOOD IN HOUSE OF CARDS TO JOAN want clothes like that? HOLLOWAY IN MAD MEN! FASHION ICONS ARE ON THE SMALL SCREEN Meanwhile, Christina Hendricks as Joan Holloway became famous for her figure but also for being the first woman on TV in a generation to flaunt it. Far from IN RECENT YEARS, when it comes to existence than we do, so their wardrobes vintage, her look is undeniably current — it wardrobe inspiration, a host of slick, have become the optimum version of what takes the prism of the past to dress a shape highly crafted series has diverted attention we want our own to look like. that is often overlooked in contemporary towards the style of the small screen. Films are all about fantasy, whereas culture. “I used beautiful gem tones and The final series of Mad Men drew to a television is closer to real life. Stylists very strong colours because Joan is the close this month, while the latest Game of Tom Broecker and Kemal Harris are commanding force in the office,” Bryant Thrones episodes continue to thrill viewers. responsible for the incredible sense of says of the poured-in, hourglass-wiggle You might question the idea of ‘getting the minimal style with maximum impact. dresses the character wears. look’ of the latter, but beyond the nudity and Underwood looks really powerful, even In all of these shows, costume is the mud, Thrones boasts costumes inspired though she’s dressed so simply. Her almost as important as dialogue when it by the likes of Alexander McQueen. Look political-wife look of smart, sculpting comes to the narrative arc. Think of past the fantasy of it all and there are several dresses, softly structured blouses and Claire Underwood’s silk pyjamas and new season trends there too. Velvet: check. sharp tailoring has become shorthand for a state ballgowns or Daenerys’s pink Suede: check. Tunic dresses over trousers: certain type of modern, corporate power- princess dresses and earth-stained check. A Rick Owens leather jacket, with its dressing. She wears Calvin Klein, Ralph leather breeks. Peggy Olson wearing her sharp shoulders and long sleeves feels like Lauren and Zac Posen, but there’s plenty in first pair of trousers to the office is one of something Daenerys Targaryen (played by Zara right now that speaks to her brand of Mad Men’s more affecting scenes. Emilia Clarke) might wear. austere elegance. “Powerful women use dress in very For the most part, though, TV fashion Pro-tip: she only wears white, grey, different ways to express a message,” says LE is accessible and familiar. From Sarah beige and camel, apart from when she’s Donna Loveday, curator of Women, P PEO Lund’s famous Faroese jumpers in The on the defensive (in which case it’s navy or Fashion, Power. “You’ve got Joan of Arc, a W
Killing to Gillian Anderson’s silk blouses claret) and when she’s running (all black). warrior, and Elizabeth I in her bejewelled TERVIE IN HE HE worn as Stella Gibson in The Fall, the As any costume designer will tell you, it gowns. And Hillary Clinton in her trouser T / S
small screen functions increasingly as an takes a lot of work to convey so much with suit.” That none of our TV power dressers IME T HE HE
amped-up everyday style guide. Just as so little. But Underwood is one of several would be caught dead in a trouser suit is T characters live a rather more hyperbolic female TV characters to have gripped testament perhaps to how far we’ve come. ARRIET WALKER / / WALKER ARRIET 176 H luxsqft.com | +971 4 435 6215