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1 The Best of Cancún, & the Yucatán

The Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of . Its tremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unequaled mix of sophisticated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya culture, exquisite beaches, and exhilarating adventures. Between the two of us, we’ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing the peninsula, and these are our personal favorites—the best places to go, the best restaurants, the best hotels, and must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences.

1 The Best Beach Vacations • Cancún: Essentially one long rib- where you can have fresh-caught bon of white sand bordering aqua- fish for lunch. You’re close to great marine water, Cancún has one of diving and snorkeling just off- Mexico’s most beautifully situated shore, as well as Isla Contoy beaches. If you want tropical National Park, which features drinks brought to you while you great bird life and its own dra- lounge in the sand, this is the vaca- matic, uninhabited beach. If all tion for you. Though Cancún has that tranquillity starts to get to a reputation as a bustling, modern you, you’re only a ferry ride away megaresort, it’s also a great place from the action in Cancún. See for exploring reefs, chapter 4. tranquil lagoons, and the sur- • Cozumel: It may not have rounding jungle. The most tran- lots of big, sandy beaches, but quil waters and beaches on Cozumel has something the main- Cancún Island are those at the land doesn’t: the calm, waveless northern tip, facing the Bahía de waters of the sheltered western Mujeres. See chapter 3. shore. It’s so easy, it’s like swim- • : If laid-back is what ming in an aquarium. Cozumel you’re after, this idyllic island also has lots to see under the offers peaceful,COPYRIGHTED small-town beach water. MATERIALSee chapter 4. life at its best. Most accommoda- • : This is one of tions are smaller, inexpensive inns, our absolute favorite Mexican with a few unique, luxurious beach vacations. Stylish and hip, places tossed in. Bike—or take a Playa del Carmen offers a beautiful golf cart—around the island to beach and an eclectic assortment explore rocky coves and sandy of small hotels, inns, and cabañas. beaches, or focus your tanning The social scene is focused on the efforts on the wide beachfront of beach by day and the pedestrian- Playa Norte. Here you’ll find calm only Quinta Avenida (5th Ave.) waters and palapa restaurants, by night, with its fun assortment 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 5

THE BEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES 5

of restaurants, clubs, sidewalk ’s small palapa hotels offer cafes, and shops. You’re also close guests a little slice of paradise far to the coast’s major attractions, from crowds and megaresorts. The including nature parks, ruins, bustling town lies inland; at the and, cenotes (sinkholes or natural coast, things are quiet and will wells). Cozumel Island is just a remain so because all these hotels quick ferry trip away. Enjoy it are small and must generate their while it’s a manageable size. See own electricity. If you can pull chapter 5. yourself away from the beach, • Tulum: Fronting some of the nearby are ruins to explore and a best beaches on the entire coast, vast nature preserve. See chapter 5.

2 The Best Cultural Experiences • Streets and Park Entertainment • San Cristóbal de las Casas: The (Mérida): Few cities have so city of San Cristóbal is a living vibrant a street scene as Mérida. museum, with 16th-century colo- Throughout the week you can nial architecture and pre-Hispanic catch music and dance perform- native influences. The highland ances in plazas about the city, and Maya live in surrounding villages on Sunday, Mérida really gets and arrive daily in town wearing going—streets are closed off, food colorful handmade clothing. The stalls spring up everywhere, and villages are a window into another you can enjoy a book fair, a flea world, giving visitors a glimpse of market, comedy acts, band con- traditional Indian dress, religious certs, and dance groups. At night, customs, churches, and cere- the main plaza is the place to be: monies. See chapter 7. People dance to mambos and • Regional Cuisine: A trip to the rumbas in the street in front of the Yucatán allows for a culinary tour town hall. See chapter 6. of some of Mexico’s finest foods. • Exploring the Inland Yucatán Don’t miss specialties such as pollo Peninsula: Travelers who venture or cochinita pibil (chicken or pork only to the Yucatán’s resorts and in savory achiote sauce), great cities miss the rock-walled inland seafood dishes, the many styles of villages, where women wear color- tamal found throughout Chiapas ful embroidered dresses and life and the Yucatán, and Caribbean- seems to proceed as though the influenced foods such as fried modern world (except highways) bananas, black beans, and yuca didn’t exist. The adventure of see- root. For a glossary of popular ing newly uncovered ruins, deep regional dishes, see appendix B. in jungle settings, is not to be missed. See chapters 5 and 6.

3 The Best Archaeological Sites • Calakmul: Of the many elegantly completely surrounded in jungle built Maya cities of the Río Bec (actually, the Calakmul Biological area in the lower Yucatán, Calak- Reserve). Calakmul is a walled city mul is the broadest in scope and with the tallest pyramid in the design. It’s also one of the hardest Yucatán—a city whose primary to get to—about 48km (30 miles) inhabitants are the trees that pop- from the Guatemalan border and ulate the plazas. Go now, while it 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN Mexico

TijuanaTijuana MexicaliMexicali UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES UNITED STATES EnsenadaEnsenada 2 BAJABAJA CiudadCiudad CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA JuJJuárezuárezrez NORTENORTE PuertoPuerto NogalesNogales PenascoPenasco 2 SanSan QuintinQuintin 45 SONORASONORA 15 1 10 OjinagaOjinaga HermosilloHermosillo CHIHUAHUACHIHUAHUA GuerreroGuerrero 18 Piedras Negras IslaIsla NegroNegro 16 ChihuahuaChihuahua CedrosCedros 16 CuidadCuidad CuauhtémocCuauhtCuauhtémocmoc COAHUILACOAHUILA SantaSanta ObregOObregónbregón RosaliaRosalia DDeliciaselicias Nuevo Laredo MulegéMulegMulegé BAJABAJA HidalgoHidalgo MonclovaMonclova CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA deldel PParralarral SURSUR 49 30 LoretoLoreto 57 SINALOASINALOA 45 Monterrey LosLos TorreTTorreónorreón 40 Matamoros MochisMochis DURANGODURANGO SaltilloSaltillo CuliacCCuliacánuliacán NUEVO 1 LEÓN LaLa PazPaz 15 SeaSea ofof CortCortésCortés DurangoDurango TAMAULIPAS 40 SanSan JosJJoséosé FresnilloFresnillo 54 Ciudad Victoria TodosTodos SantosSantos deldel CaboCabo MazatlánMazatlMazatlán ZACATECASZACATECAS CaboCabo SanSan LucasLucas ZacatecasZacatecas SanSan Ciudad Mante 15 LuisLuis PotosPPotosíotosí Tampico Río Lagartos Isla TuxpanTuxpan AGUASCALIENTESAGUASCALIENTES SAN LUIS SanSan BlasBlas Progreso Mujeres TepicTepic POTOSÍ Valladolid AguascalientesAguascalientes Cancún IslasIslas San Miguel Tuxpan NAYARITNAYARIT LeónLeLeón de Allende Celestún MariasMarias Mérida Cozumel GuadalajaraGuadalajara QUERÉTARO GuanajuatoGuanajuato Poza Rica YUCATÁN Playa del PuertoPuerto VallartaVallarta Carmen GUANA-GUANA- HIDALGO Papantla Querétaro Campeche Punta JALISCOJALISCO LakeLake ChapalaChapala JUATOJUATO Pachuca QUINTANA Allen MoreliaMorelia Bay of BarraBarra dede NavidadNavidad UruapanUruapan Mexico City Xalapa CAMPECHE ROO Toluca TLAXCALA Campeche ColimaColima Tlaxcala Veracruz Majahual ManzanilloManzanillo PátzcuaroPátzcuarotzcuaro Cuernavaca Puebla Escárcega Peninsula MICHOACANMICHOACAN COLIMACOLIMA PUEBLA Orizaba Catemaco 37 MORELOS TABASCO 200 Tehuacán Taxco VERACRUZ Villahermosa LázaroLázarozaro Coatzacoalcos GUERRERO CárdenasCárdenasrdenas BELIZE San Cristóbal ZihuatanejoZihuatanejo Oaxaca Tuxtla & IxtapaIxtapa Acapulco Gutiérrez de las Casas OAXACA PACIFICP A C I F I C CHIAPAS Salina Comitan OCEANO C E A N Puerto Escondido Cruz GUATEMALA Huatulco Puerto Ángel HONDURAS Tapachula EL SALVADOR

0 150 mi N 0 150 km 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 7

THE BEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES 7

Tijuana Mexicali UNITED STATES UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES Ensenada

BAJA Ciudad CALIFORNIA Juárez NORTE Puerto Nogales Penasco San Quintin

SONORA

Ojinaga Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA Guerrero PiedrasPiedras NegrasNegras Isla Negro Chihuahua Cedros Cuidad Cuauhtémoc COAHUILA Santa Obregón Rosalia Delicias NNuevouevo LLaredoaredo Mulegé BAJA Hidalgo Monclova CALIFORNIA del Parral SUR 85D Loreto SINALOA MonterreyMonterrey Los Torreón MatamorosMatamoros Gulf of Mexico Mochis DURANGO Saltillo 180 Culiacán NUEVONUEVO LEÓNLELEÓN 85 La Paz Sea of Cortés Durango TAMAULIPASTAMAULIPAS

San José Fresnillo CiudadCiudad VictoriaVictoria Todos Santos del Cabo Mazatlán ZACATECAS Cabo San Lucas Zacatecas San Luis CiudadCiudad MManteante Potosí TampicoTampico RRíoío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla Tuxpan AGUASCALIENTES SANSAN LLUISUIS San Blas ProgresoProgreso MujeresMujeres Tepic POTOSPPOTOSÍOTOSÍ ValladolidValladolid Aguascalientes CancCCancúnancún Islas SanSan MiguelMiguel TuxpanTuxpan 180 NAYARIT León dede AllendeAllende CelestCCelestúnelestún Marias MMéridaéridarida CozumelCozumel Guadalajara QUERQQUERÉTAROUERÉTAROTARO Guanajuato PozaPoza RicaRica YUCATYYUCATÁNUCATÁN PlayaPlaya deldel Puerto Vallarta CarmenCarmen GUANA- HIDALGOHIDALGO PapantlaPapantla QuerQQuerétarouerétarotaro CampecheCampeche PuntaPunta JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO PachucaPachuca 180 QUINTANAQUINTANA AllenAllen Morelia BayBay ofof Barra de Navidad Uruapan MexicoMexico CCityity XalapaXalapa CCAMPECHEAMPECHE ROOROO TolucaToluca TLAXCALATLAXCALA CampecheCampeche BacalarBacalar Colima TlaxcalaTlaxcala VeracruzVeracruz 261 MajahualMajahual Manzanillo Pátzcuaro CuernavacaCuernavaca PueblaPuebla EscEEscárcegascárrcegacega PeninsulaPeninsula MICHOACAN COLIMA PUEBLAPUEBLA OrizabaOrizaba CatemacoCatemaco ChetumalChetumal MORELOSMORELOS TABASCOTABASCO TehuacTTehuacánehuacán TaxcoTaxco 95 VERACRUZVERACRUZ VillahermosaVillahermosa 186 Lázaro 190D CoatzacoalcosCoatzacoalcos GUERREROGUERRERO 175 PalenquePalenque Cárdenas BELIZEBELIZE 186 SanSan CristCCristóbalristóbalbal Caribbean Zihuatanejo OaxacaOaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla & Ixtapa AcapulcoAcapulco GutiGGutiérrezutiérrezrrez dede laslas CasasCasas Sea 200 OAXACAOAXACA P A C I F I C CHIAPASCHIAPAS SalinaSalina ComitanComitan O C E A N PuertoPuerto EscondidoEscondido CruzCruz GUATEMALAGUATEMALA HuatulcoHuatulco 200 PuertoPuerto Gulf of ÁÁngelnngelgel Tehuantepec HONDURASHONDURAS TapachulaTapachula ELEL SALVADORSALVADOR 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN

remains infrequently visited. See precisely that shadow and sunlight “The Río Bec Ruin Route” in form a serpent’s body slithering chapter 5. from peak to the earth at each • Tulum: Some dismiss Tulum as equinox (Mar 21 and Sept 21). less important than other ruins in See “The Ruins of Chichén Itzá” the Yucatán Peninsula, but this in chapter 6. seaside Maya fortress is still inspir- • Ek Balam: In recent years, this is ing. The sight of its crumbling the site where the most astound- stone walls against the stark con- ing archeological discoveries have trast of the clear turquoise ocean been made. Ek Balam’s main pyra- just beyond is extraordinary. See mid is taller than Chichén Itzá’s, “Tulum, & Sian and it holds a sacred doorway bor- Ka’an” in chapter 5. dered with elaborate stucco figures • Uxmal: No matter how many of priests and kings and rich times I see Uxmal, the splendor of iconography. See “Ek Balam: Dark its stone carvings inspires awe. A Jaguar” in chapter 6. stone rattlesnake undulates across • Palenque: The ancient builders of the facade of the Nunnery com- these now-ruined structures carved plex, and 103 masks of Chaac— histories in stone that scholars are the rain god—project from the only now able to decipher. Imag- Governor’s Palace. See “The Ruins ine the magnificent ceremony of Uxmal” in chapter 6. in A.D. 683 when King Pacal was • Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the buried below ground in a secret giant serpent head at the foot of pyramidal tomb—unspoiled until the El Castillo pyramid and marvel its discovery in 1952. See at the architects and astronomers “Palenque” in chapter 7. who positioned the building so

4 The Best Active Vacations • Scuba Diving in Cozumel and Punta Allen & Sian Ka’an” and along the Yucatán’s Caribbean “Majahual, & the Chin- coast: The coral reefs off the chorro Reef” in chapter 5. island, Mexico’s premier diving • Cenote Diving on the Yucatán destination, are among the top Mainland: Dive into the clear five dive spots in the world. The depths of the Yucatán’s cenotes for Yucatán’s coastal reef, part of the an interesting twist on underwater second-largest reef system in the exploration. The Maya considered world, affords excellent diving all the cenotes sacred—and their vivid along the coast. Especially beauti- colors indeed seem otherworldly. ful is the Chinchorro Reef, lying Most are located between Playa 20 miles offshore from Majahual del Carmen and Tulum, and dive or Xcalak. Diving from Isla shops in these areas regularly run Mujeres is also quite spectacular. trips for experienced divers. For See chapters 4 and 5. recommended dive shops, see • Fly-fishing off the Punta Allen “Cozumel” in chapter 4, and and Majahual Peninsulas: Seri- “Playa del Carmen” and “South of ous anglers will enjoy the challenge Playa del Carmen” in chapter 5. of fly-fishing the saltwater flats • An Excursion to Bonampak, and lagoons on the protected sides Yaxchilán, and the Usumacinta of these peninsulas. See “Tulum, River: Bonampak and Yaxchilán— 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 9

THE BEST PLACES TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL 9

two remote, jungle-surrounded ornithological paradise, with Maya sites along the Usumacinta hundreds of species awaiting the River—are now accessible by car birder’s gaze and list. One very and motorboat. The experience special place is Isla Contoy, with could well be the highlight of any more than 70 species of birds as trip. See “Road Trips from San well as a host of marine and ani- Cristóbal” in chapter 7. mal life. See p. 99, chapter 6, and • Birding: The Yucatán Peninsula, chapter 7. Tabasco, and Chiapas are an

5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All • Isla Mujeres: If there’s one island 983/831-0037; www.encantado. in Mexico that guarantees a respite com): The attractive casitas are the from stress, it’s Isla Mujeres. You’ll place to unwind at this resort, find an ample selection of hotels where hammocks stretch between and restaurants, and they’re as trees. The hotel is on the shores of laid-back as their patrons. Here placid Lago (Lake) Bacalar, south life moves along in pure mañana of Cancún near Chetumal, and mode. Visitors stretch out and there’s nothing around for miles. doze beneath shady palms or lan- But if you want adventure, you guidly stroll about. For many, the can head out to the lake in a best part about this getaway is that kayak, follow a birding trail, or it’s comfortably close to Cancún’s take an excursion to Belize and the international airport, as well as intriguing nearby Maya ruins on shopping and dining, should you the Río Bec ruin route. See p. 161. choose to reconnect. See “Isla • Hotel Eco Paraíso Xixim Mujeres” in chapter 4. (Celestún; & 988/916-2100; • The Yucatán’s : www.mexonline.com/eco-paraiso. Away from the busy resort of htm): In these crowded times, Cancún, a string of quiet get- space is a luxury that’s getting aways, including Capitán Lafitte, harder to come by. Space is pre- KaiLuum, Paamul, Punta Bete, cisely what makes this place so and a portion of Xpu-ha, offer great: Fifteen bungalows and 5km tranquillity on beautiful beaches (3 miles) of beach bordering a at low prices. See “North of Playa coconut plantation. Throw in a del Carmen” and “South of Playa good restaurant, a pool, and a del Carmen” in chapter 5. couple of hammocks, and you • Tulum: Near the Tulum ruins, have that rare combination of about two dozen beachside palapa comfort and isolation. See p. 195. inns offer some of the most peace- • Hacienda San José Cholul: ful getaways in the country. This Though only an hour outside the stretch just might offer the best bustling city of Mérida, this sandy beaches on the entire coast. hacienda feels like another world. Life here among the birds and The quiet, unhurried manner of coconut palms is decidedly both guests and staff and the unhurried. See “Tulum, Punta beautiful tropical surroundings Allen & Sian Ka’an” in chapter 5. make it the perfect place to recoup • Rancho Encantado Cottage some of the silence and slow time Resort (Lago Bacalar; & 800/ lost to the modern world. See 505-MAYA in the U.S., or “Hacienda Hotels” on p. 188. 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN

6 The Best Museums • Museo de la Cultura Maya (Villahermosa): This anthropol- (Chetumal): This modern ogy museum addresses Mexican museum, one of the best in the history in the form of objects country, explores Maya archaeol- found at archaeological sites, with ogy, architecture, history, and particular emphasis on the pre- mythology. It has interactive Hispanic peoples of the Gulf exhibits and a glass floor that Coast region. See p. 232. allows visitors to walk above repli- • Parque–Museo la Venta (Villa- cas of Maya sites. See p. 162. hermosa): The Olmec, considered • Museo Regional de Antropo- Mexico’s mother culture, are the logía (Mérida): Housed in the subject of this park/museum, Palacio Cantón, one of the most which features the magnificent beautiful 19th-century mansions stone remains that were removed in the city, this museum showcases from the La Venta site not far area archaeology and anthropolog- away. Stroll through a jungle set- ical studies in handsome exhibits. ting where tropical birds alight, See p. 184. and savor the giant carved stone • Museo Regional de Antropo- heads of the mysterious Olmec. logía Carlos Pellicer Cámara See p. 233.

7 The Best Shopping Some tips on bargaining: Although duty-free zone, offers an impres- haggling over prices in markets is sive selection of both precious expected and part of the fun, don’t try stones and superb craftsmen who to browbeat the vendor or bad-mouth can make jewelry designs to order. the goods. Vendors won’t bargain with See “Isla Mujeres” in chapter 4. people they consider disrespectful • Quinta Avenida, Playa del Car- unless they are desperate to make a men: This pedestrian-only street sale. Be insistent but friendly. offers leisurely shopping at its • Resort Wear in Cancún: Resort best. No cars, no hassle, simply clothing—especially if you can stroll down the street and let your find a sale—can be a bargain here. eye pick out objects of interest. And the selection may be wider Expect a good bit of merchan- than what’s available at home. dise popular with counterculture Almost every mall on the island types, such as batik clothing and contains trendy boutiques that fabric, Guatemalan textiles, and specialize in locally designed and inventive jewelry and artwork. imported clothing. See “Shop- But also you’ll find quality Mexi- ping” in chapter 3. can handcrafts, premium tequilas, • Duty Free in Cancún: If you’re and Cuban cigars. See “Playa del looking for European perfume, Carmen” in chapter 5. fine watches, or other imported • Mérida: This is the marketplace goods, you’ll find the prices in for the Yucatán—the best place Cancún’s duty-free shops (at the to buy hammocks, guayaberas, major malls on the island and in Panama hats, and Yucatecan hui- downtown Cancún) hard to beat. piles. See “Exploring Mérida” in See “Shopping” in chapter 3. chapter 6. • Precious Gemstones in Isla • San Cristóbal de las Casas: Mujeres: Isla Mujeres, also a Deep in the heart of the Maya 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 11

THE MOST LUXURIOUS HOTELS 11

highlands, San Cristóbal has Maya Indians sell direct to tourists shops, open plazas, and markets from their armloads of textiles, that feature the distinctive waist- dolls, and attractive miniature loomed wool and cotton textiles likenesses of Subcomandante of the region, as well as leather Marcos—complete with ski shoes, handsome pottery, and masks. See “San Cristóbal de las Guatemalan textiles. Highland Casas” in chapter 7.

8 The Hottest Nightlife Although, as expected, Cancún is which can—and does—regularly home to much of the Yucatán’s pack in up to 3,000 revelers. See nightlife, that resort city isn’t the only p. 85. place to have a good time after dark. • The Lobby Lounge: Located in Along the Caribbean coast, beachside Cancún’s luxurious Ritz-Carlton dance floors with live bands and Hotel, this is the most elegant extended “happy hours” in seaside evening spot on the island. bars dominate the nightlife. Here are Romantic live music, a selection some favorite hot spots, from live of fine cigars, and more than 120 music in hotel lobby bars to hip techno premium tequilas (plus tastings) dance clubs. allow you to savor the spirit of • Coco Bongo, Carlos ’n’ Char- Mexico. See p. 87. lie’s, La Boom & Dady’O: These • San Cristóbal de las Casas: This Cancún bars all offer good drinks, city, small though it may be, has a hot music, and great dance floors. live-music scene that can’t be beat Mango Tango is a top spot for live for fun and atmosphere. The bars Cuban and Caribbean rhythms in and clubs are all within walking Cancún. See p. 86 and 87. distance, and they’re a real bar- • Forum by the Sea: Here’s one gain. See “San Cristóbal de las place that has it all: The newest of Casas” in chapter 7. the seaside entertainment centers • Quinta Avenida, Playa del in Cancún has a dazzling array of Carmen: Stroll along the lively, dance clubs, sports bars, fast food, pedestrian-only Fifth Avenue to and fine dining, with shops open find the bar that’s right for you. late as well. You’ll find plenty of With live music venues, tequila familiar names here, including the bars, sports bars, and cafes, you’re Hard Rock Cafe and Rainforest sure to find something to fit your Cafe. It’s also the home of Can- mood. See p. 128. cún’s hottest club, Coco Bongo,

9 The Most Luxurious Hotels • Le Méridien Cancún Resort & • Ritz-Carlton Hotel (Cancún; Spa (Cancún; & 800/543-4300 & 800/241-3333 in the U.S., or in the U.S., or 998/881-2200; 998/885-0808; www.ritzcarlton. www.meridiencancun.com.mx): com): Thick carpets, sparkling This is the most intimate of the glass and brass, and rich mahogany luxury hotels in Cancún, with an surround guests at this hotel, understated sense of highly per- which clearly sets the standard for sonalized service. Most notable is luxury in Cancún. The service is its 4,546-sq.-m (15,000-sq.-ft.) impeccable, leaving guests with an Spa del Mar. See p. 69. 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 12

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overall sense of pampered relax- setting for a resort than this beau- ation. See p. 70. tiful stretch of Caribbean coast • Presidente InterContinental with palm trees and manicured Cozumel (Cozumel; & 800/ gardens. You begin to relax before 327-0200 in the U.S., or 987/ you even take the first sip of your 872-9500; www.cozumel.inter welcome cocktail. Service is very continental.com): Surrounded by attentive, and the rooms are large shady palms, this hotel also has and luxurious. See p. 141. the best beach on the island, right • Paraíso de la Bonita (north of in front of Paraíso Reef. Favorite Playa del Carmen; & 800/327- rooms are the deluxe beachside 0200 in the U.S.): Operated units with spacious patios and by InterContinental Hotels, this direct access to the beach—you resort has a super-equipped spa can even order romantic in-room based on the elaborate system of dining on the patios, complete thalassotherapy. The guest rooms with a trio to serenade you. See are elaborate creations, and the p. 119. hotel provides all kinds of service. • Ikal del Mar (north of Playa del It has three pools and an immacu- Carmen; & 888/230-7330 in the lately kept beach. See p. 141. U.S.): Small, secluded, and pri- • Hacienda Xcanatún (outskirts of vate, Ikal del Mar offers extraordi- Mérida; & 888/883-3633 in the nary personal service and spa U.S.): Large, boldly designed treatments. Rooms spread out suites built with extravagance in through the jungle, and there’s a mind, extensive grounds, private beautiful seaside pool and restau- spa, excellent restaurant, and rant. See p. 141. ample staff—this hotel does the • Maroma (north of Playa del Car- difficult trick of being small in men; & 866/454-9351 in the size but large in offerings. See U.S.): You cannot ask for a better “Hacienda Hotels” on p. 188.

10 The Best Budget Inns • Cancún INN Suites El Patio their way to create a distinctive (Cancún City; & 998/884-3500; lodging with plenty of amenities. www.cancun-suites.com): This The hotel has its very own cenote European-style inn welcomes and piece of shady jungle, making many guests for repeat or long- it a lovely place to relax after a try- term stays. Each room is tastefully ing day of strolling the beach and decorated, and all surround a wandering the village streets. See plant-filled courtyard. Special p. 133. packages combine Spanish lessons • Villa Catarina Rooms & Cabañas and accommodations. It’s an oasis (Playa del Carmen; & 984/ of cultured hospitality in one of 873-2098): These stylishly rustic Mexico’s most commercial beach rooms nestle in a garden of tall resorts. See p. 73. palms, flowering trees, and singing • Treetops (Playa del Carmen; birds. Just a block from the wide & 984/873-1495; www.treetops beach and tranquil Caribbean, it’s hotel.com): An economical, quiet also a short walk from the action hotel steps from both the beach of Avenida 5. See p. 133. and Avenida 5, Treetops could eas- • Casa San Juan (Mérida; & 999/ ily get by on its location alone. 986-2937; www.casasanjuan. But the owners have gone out of com): This B&B, in a colonial 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 13

THE BEST UNIQUE INNS 13

house in Mérida’s historic district, • Hotel Dolores Alba (Mérida; is the perfect combination of & 999/928-5650; www.dolores comfort and character at a great alba.com): The new rooms offer price. The guest rooms in the orig- all the comforts at a rate that other inal building evoke an earlier hotels in this category can’t match. time, while the modern rooms in Add to this the new pool and large back are quite large and border a sunning area, and I call it a bar- lovely patio. See p. 190. gain. See p. 190.

11 The Best Unique Inns • Hotel Villa Rolandi Gourmet www.flyfishmx.com): Getting to & Beach Club (Isla Mujeres; the isolated lobster-fishing village & 998/877-0700; www.rolandi. of Punta Allen is half the adven- com): In addition to being steps ture. Then you can retreat to one away from an exquisite private of the thatched-roof cottages, cove, a tranquil infinity pool, and swing in a hammock, dine on Isla’s finest dining, this intimate lobster and stone crabs, and inn also pampers guests with every absolutely forget there’s an out- conceivable in-room amenity. side world. There are no phones, Each unit even has a private televisions, or newspapers, and Jacuzzi on the balcony and a “town” is 56km (35 miles) away. shower that converts into a steam Nature trips and fly-fishing are room. See p. 100. readily arranged. See p. 154. • Hotel Jungla Caribe (Playa del • Casa Mexilio Guest House Carmen; & 984/873-0650; www. (Mérida; & 800/538-6802 in the jungla-caribe.com): In a town U.S., or 999/928-2505; www. filled with exceptional inns, this mexicoholiday.com): An imagina- one’s a standout. The eclectic tive arrangement of rooms around decor combines neoclassical details a courtyard features a pool sur- with a decidedly tropical touch. rounded by a riot of tropical vege- The rooms and suites surround a tation. The rooms are divided stylish courtyard, restaurant, and among different levels for privacy pool. You couldn’t be better and are connected by stairs and located—1 block from the beach, catwalks. Breakfast here provides with an entrance on happening an extra incentive for getting out Avenida 5. See p. 132. of bed. See p. 187. • Deseo Hotel + Lounge (Playa del • Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal Carmen; & 984/879-3620): Per- de las Casas; & 967/678-1418): haps it should be Hotel = Lounge. This unique house-museum is ter- That might be an overstatement, rific for anthropology buffs. Built but the lounge is at the center of as a seminary in 1891, it was everything, making Deseo the transformed into the headquarters perfect fit for outgoing types who of two anthropologists. The 12 are into an alternative lodging guest rooms, named for surround- experience. Enjoy a cocktail at the ing villages, are decorated with bar or on one of the large daybeds local objects and textiles; all rooms and chill to the modern lounge have fireplaces and private bath- music. See p. 131. rooms, and the room rate includes • Cuzan Guest House (Punta Allen breakfast. See p. 250. Peninsula; & 983/834-0358; 05_567624 ch01.qxd 7/20/04 2:17 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN

12 The Best Restaurants Best doesn’t necessarily mean most expertly prepared, is all it serves. luxurious. Although some of the When you’ve achieved perfection, restaurants listed here are fancy affairs, why bother with anything else? others are simple places to get fine, See p. 120. authentic Yucatecan cuisine. • Prima (Cozumel; & 987/872- • Aioli (Cancún; & 998/881- 4242): The Italian food here is 2225): Simply exquisite French fresh, fresh, fresh—from the and Mediterranean gourmet spe- hydroponically grown vegetables cialties served in a warm and cozy to the pasta and garlic bread. And country French setting, at the it’s all prepared after you walk hotel Le Méridien. For quality in, most of it by owner Albert and exceptional service, it’s Can- Domínguez, who concocts unfor- cún’s best value in fine dining. gettable shrimp fettuccine with See p. 75. pesto, crab ravioli with cream • La Dolce Vita (Cancún; & 998/ sauce, and crisp house salad in 885-0150): A longtime favorite, a chilled bowl. See p. 121. La Dolce Vita remains untouched • Media Luna (Playa del Carmen; by newer arrivals. It continues to & 984/873-0526): The inviting draw diners with such blissful atmosphere of this sidewalk cafe dishes as green tagliolini with lob- on Avenida 5 is enough to lure ster medallions, veal with morels, you in. The expertly executed and and fresh salmon with cream sauce, innovative menu, together with all served (at night) to the sound great prices, makes it one of the of live jazz music. See p. 76. top choices on the Caribbean • Zazil Ha (Isla Mujeres; & 998/ coast. See p. 135. 877-0279): It doesn’t get more • La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/ relaxed and casual than Zazil Ha, 811-3365): Campeche’s regional with its sandy floor beneath specialty is seafood, and nowhere thatched palapas and palms. This else will you find seafood like this. is the place for island atmosphere Mexican caviar, coconut-battered and well-prepared food. Along shrimp, and chiles stuffed with with its signature seafood and shark are just a few of the unique Caribbean cuisine, this restaurant specialties. Thinking about La continues to prove that vegetarian Pigua’s pompano in a fine green cuisine can be both artfully and herb sauce makes me want to start tastefully prepared. It also offers checking flight schedules. See special menus for those participat- p. 215. ing in yoga retreats on the island. • Yaxché (Playa del Carmen; See p. 104. & 984/873-2502): No restaurant • Cabaña del Pescador (Lobster in the Yucatán explores the region’s House) (Cozumel; no phone): If culinary traditions and use of local you want an ideally seasoned, suc- ingredients more than this one. It’s culent lobster dinner, Cabaña del menu presents several pleasant sur- Pescador (Lobster House) is the prises and is a welcome relief from place. If you want anything else, the standard offerings of most you’re out of luck—lobster dinner, Yucatecan restaurants. See p. 134.