The 2017 Ethical Fashion Report THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE THE 2017 ETHICAL FASHION REPORT THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE
Date: 19th April 2017 Authors: Gershon Nimbalker, Jasmin Mawson, Hsu-Ann Lee, Claire Cremen Behind the Barcode is a project of Baptist World Aid Australia www.behindthebarcode.org.au
Report Design Susanne Geppert
Front cover photo credit: Asian Development Bank, used under creative commons license 2.0.
2 CONTENTS
1. Executive Summary...... 4
2. Methodology...... 16
3. Made in … ...... 20 Bangladesh 21, Cambodia 23, China 25, India 27, Australia 29
4. Policies...... 31
5. Knowing Suppliers...... 34
6. Auditing & Supplier Relationships...... 37 Appendices ...... 7. Worker Empowerment 41 Statements from Non-Responsive Companies 80 8. Living Wage...... 44 Sources and Further Reading 82 9. Brand Index...... 47 About Baptist World Aid 85 1 0. Survey Data...... 60 Acknowledgments 85
3 Executive Summary
This section outlines the research aims and scope, data collection and findings 1and overall results of all companies.
4 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OVERVIEW
This is the fourth report produced by Baptist The first report was published in the wake of the of companies of the first report, with 83% of World Aid Australia examining labour rights industry’s most tragic disaster; the 2013 Rana Plaza companies being actively engaged in the research factory collapse in Bangladesh, which claimed the process. And this year, for the first time ever, the management systems in the fashion industry. lives of 1,134 garment workers. Ethical Fashion Report is being released in New It grades 106 companies, from A to F, on the Since that time, the Report has benchmarked and Zealand, expanding beyond its traditional strength of their systems to mitigate against tracked the efforts of fashion companies to ensure Australian release. the risks of forced labour, child labour, and that the rights of the workers who make their Since the tragedy in Bangladesh, efforts to exploitation in their supply chains. products are upheld. These rights including a safe improve conditions for fashion workers have work place, a living wage, and freedom from accelerated, spurred on by increased public slavery. The report has grown in scope and scrutiny and concerted consumer calls for change. industry engagement every year since its release. But the need remains pressing. It now assesses more than 2.5 times the number
Overall Grades: A–P
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific
Policies B A+ A F A B+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A– B+ A+ F A+ A+ F D– A+ A+ A+ A+ D A+ A+ A+ A+ F A+ A+ A+ A+ A F A+ B A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ B A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A– A+ D– A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ B– A+ A+ A+ A+ B+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ F A+
Knowing Your
Suppliers D+ A+ B+ F A C– A+ B– B+ B C C+ C+ F B+ C+ F C+ B B B+ B F A+ A C+ B+ F B+ A+ A+ C+ C F D+ C A– A+ B+ C– B+ F C+ C+ C+ B+ A+ B+ C+ A– D A A– A+ B+ A– B+ B+ B+ B+ B+ A– D+ B– A+ A+ C+ C– A B+ C+ A+ C+ B B– B C+ A+ B+ F A+
Auditing & Supplier Relationships D+ A– C F B– C– B+ C– C+ C+ C– D+ C F D+ C F B– C+ D+ D+ C+ F B+ B+ C+ B– F B– B A C C F D D+ C+ B+ C+ D C+ F C C+ C D B+ B+ C– D+ F A+ B– B C+ D+ C+ A– B+ B– C+ A– D+ C+ B+ B+ C C– B+ C+ D+ B+ C+ C+ C+ C C– B+ C+ F B+
Worker
Empowerment D– B– F F C– C+ C+ D– D+ D+ F D– F F D+ D– F F D+ F D D+ F B– C+ C C+ F D+ C– A– D D+ F F F C C+ C– D– D+ F F C– D+ D C+ C+ F D+ F B C+ D+ C– D D C+ C+ C– D+ A– F F C– B+ D F D+ D+ D– A– D+ C– D+ D+ D– B– D+ F C+
* = non-responsive companies 5 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OVERVIEW
The Asia Pacific has become the world’s garment both labour intensive and prone to employing factory, with more than 40 million workers vulnerable workers. The US Department of Labor These 106 companies represent employed in manufacturing apparel and textiles reports forced and/or child labour is used in across the region. For the vast-majority of these garment, textile and footwear manufacturing 330 brands, to see the grades workers, wages remain at levels well below what is throughout the region, including in China, India, of specific brands, go to the needed to lift them and their families out of poverty. Bangladesh, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Brand Index on page 47. The International Labour Organisation (ILO) Cambodia, and Pakistan. estimates that more than half of the world’s forced And though safety standards are improving labourers (11.7 million), and that 78 million of its for this industry, progress is slow. Factory child labourers are in this region. Apparel is a fires and unsafe working conditions remain high-risk industry for these practices, being a persistent problem.
Overall Grades: P–Z
OVERALL GRADE A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
Policies A+ F A+ A+ A A A+ A+ F A+ A+ A A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A A+ A+ A+ F B– F A+
Knowing Your
Suppliers A+ D+ B C+ C C+ B– A F A+ B– C– B A– B B+ B+ C C+ A– B F C+ F C+
Auditing & Supplier Relationships A– F C+ C– C C C C+ F B+ B D+ C+ B B+ C+ D+ C– C– B+ B F D+ F C
Worker
Empowerment B– F C D+ D– D+ D– C+ F B+ D F D D+ D+ C– D D– D+ D D F F F D Photo credit: gerrypopplestone, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0. Licence Commons used under Creative gerrypopplestone, credit: Photo * = non-responsive companies 6 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
China remains the most common country for production, followed C+ 13 A 10 F by India, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Thailand. companies assessed median grade companies received companies received A range grades F grades 2016 2017 Investing in supplier relationships is high on the priority for many companies:
67% of companies are 77% of companies are 16% 26% making efforts to train working to actively 67% suppliers, buyers and 77% improve leverage and factory managers to relationships with understand human suppliers, through While transparency remains a challenge in the trafficking, child supplier consolidation industry, we have seen an improvement with the labour, and forced and/or industry percentage of companies publishing full supplier labour risks. collaboration? lists going from 16% to 26% in the last year alone.
Worker Empowerment remains the area where Tracing of raw materials remains a huge the most work still needs to challenge with just 7% of companies knowing be done, with the median where all of their cotton is coming from. 7% D+ grade for that section of our assessment being a D+. 7 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY INDUSTRY PROGRESS
Baptist World Aid’s first report on the fashion industry was published in 2013 and since 59% 59% of companies assessed then, we have seen the industry in the 2016 Report improved make significant progress in their grade in the 2017 Report the quality of their labour rights management systems…
Traceability Companies tracing inputs suppliers Companies tracing raw materials suppliers deeper into the 2013 49% 2013 17% supply chains has increased 2015 61% 2015 31% steadily over the 2016 79% 2016 39% 2017 last four years: 2017 81% 2017 45%
42% The number 2013 11% of companies 2016 investing in paying 2015 14% fairer wages to 2016 32% workers 2017 42%
The percentage of companies tracking the presence of trade unions and collective bargaining agreements in the majority of their factories has doubled since 2016.
8 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY KEY FINDINGS
Key Findings factory and were willing to publicly disclose where monitoring suppliers back to fabric production Company Performance they were producing. Etiko and Mighty Good (second tier suppliers), while Patagonia has done Undies, also demonstrated that many of their relatively more to trace its raw materials (third tier Niche ethical producers have consistently been the suppliers were paying a living wage. suppliers) and demonstrate improved wages for best performers when it comes to strong labour workers. rights management. Etiko, Mighty Good Undies, Of the multinational companies, Patagonia and and RREPP all scored the top grade, A+. These Inditex (Zara) scored the highest with an A grade. Cotton On Group, Pacific Brandsand APG & Co companies knew their suppliers from farm to Inditex was particularly strong on tracing and were the best performing mid-to-large size companies headquartered in Australia, both scoring an A–. New Zealand’s best performers were Kowtow and Liminal Apparel, both scoring an A grade. One of the most encouraging trends has been the continued improvement in company efforts. Over the past 12 months, Macpac, OrotonGroup, Lululemon Athletica, and Karen Walker have all demonstrated significant increases of investment in their labour rights approach. Each have moved into the B grade range. OrotonGroup, for instance, tightened its policies, invested substantially in identifying the factories it sources from, and improved its supplier relationships. Subsequently, its grade moved from D+ to B–.
Supplier Knowledge Knowing suppliers is a key pillar of a strong labour rights management system. If brands don’t know or don’t care who their suppliers are, there is virtually no way of ensuring that the workers who make their products are not being exploited. It is encouraging, then, that this continues to be one of the most significant areas of improvement within the fashion industry.
Photo credit: Mark Fischer, used under Creative Commons Licence 3.0. 9 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY KEY FINDINGS
The 2017 Ethical Fashion Report found that more collaboratively through the Better Cotton Initiative than three quarters of assessed companies knew (BCI) to do so. Companies that have published each of their final stage manufacturing suppliers BCI is a multi-stakeholder initiative that works with supplier lists in the last year: (first tier). For most companies, it is at this stage of brands, NGOs, farms, and cotton-traders to the supply chain that they have the strongest improve social and environmental protections, and • APG & Co • Jeanswest relationship. Thanks to this strong visibility, the increase farm yields (read more on page 36). • Big W • Lululemon Athletica worst forms of exploitation, forced labour, and Amongst mid-to-large companies, Kathmandu has • Brand Collective • Pacific Brands child labour are now far less prevalent at this stage been a stand out performer when it comes to of the supply chain. tracing raw materials. By using a combination of • Cotton On Group • R.M. Williams However, deeper into the supply chain, where BCI and Fairtrade cotton, Kathmandu has traced • Designworks • RREPP visibility is far less, the risks remain substantial. almost 80% of its cotton supply and through • Esprit • The PAS Group Encouragingly though, companies are increasingly Responsible Down Sourcing has traced 100% of its identifying their suppliers beyond the first tier. The down supply. • Hanesbrands 2017 Ethical Fashion Report found that 81% of companies are now actively tracing their fabric Transparency suppliers (second tier); this is up from 49% in 2013. One of the most notable trends for the industry These lists make it far easier for journalists, NGOs, Furthermore, 39% of companies now know all, or has been the improved corporate transparency workers and unions to verify that the claims almost all, their second tier suppliers (up from 24% around supply chain practices. Transparency companies make about their labour rights systems in 2013). demonstrates a company’s willingness to be are accurate, and that they are working as intended. But perhaps one of the most exciting accountable to consumers, the public, and their Workers and unions can also use these lists to developments is the improved knowledge of their workers. Transparency is critical to companies that communicate directly with brands about their raw material or third tier suppliers (usually cotton wish to build trust. grievances and concerns, and agitate for change. farms). As the majority of the world’s child One significant element of transparency is the Also, several companies have made significant labourers work in agriculture, the risks at this stage publication of a list of suppliers that includes their disclosures about their labour rights systems in the of the supply chain are acute. business names and addresses. Since the release past year. The increased openness from General When Baptist World Aid began this research in of the last Australian Fashion Report, the Pants, Gorman, Seed Heritage, Factory X, and the 2013, most companies argued that tracing back to proportion of companies publishing supplier lists Brand Collective group of companies is the farm was outside their scope of control and has substantially increased from 16% to 26%. The commendable. By sharing more about their labour responsibility. At the time, raw materials tracing move towards transparency is even more notable rights systems, they help consumers understand was largely restricted to Fairtrade companies. amongst companies that have been engaged with what efforts they are taking to ensure the rights of Now 45% of companies are seeking to trace their this project since it began in 2013; 45% of those workers are upheld. cotton suppliers, with many working companies are now publishing their supplier list.
10 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY KEY FINDINGS
Non-Responsive Companies Living Wage and Low Transparency The fashion industry continues to grow each year, Low transparency is often one of the biggest and is among the most labour intensive industries determinants for why some companies receive the in the world. It is also a significant driver of lowest grades. Companies are graded based on a employment for groups who have traditionally combination of publicly available information and struggled to find good jobs — women, migrants, any information they are willing to disclose to the and young people. Sadly, this cross section of report’s researchers. As mentioned previously, 83% society is also amongst its most vulnerable and, in of companies choose to engage, with most seeing many cases, rather than providing decent work, benefit in the process of being benchmarked and the fashion industry has exploited them. gaining feedback. A wage that is sufficient for workers to be able to Nike and The Warehouse are examples of afford the basics (food, water, healthcare, clothing, companies that still scored relatively well with electricity and education) for themselves and their C range grades, even though they did not directly dependants — a living wage — is a recognised a engage with the research process. This is largely human right. Yet the clear majority of garment due to their strong commitment to public sector workers receive wages well below this. It transparency. should come as no surprise then that the chief However, several companies have chosen not to concern among workers is their low wages. disclose or make any information publicly The benefits of a living wage are substantial. available. Without this information, it becomes In fact, payment of a living wage could transform nearly impossible for the public to make informed the lives of millions by allowing people to lift decisions about whether companies are investing themselves out of poverty and, at the same time, sufficiently to ensure that workers are not being drive economic growth within communities and exploited. For this reason, these companies have nations. Where living wages are being paid, the been awarded an F grade in this report. likelihood of other forms of exploitation such as For more information about the research process forced labour and child labour fall dramatically. and non-responsive companies, refer to the Finally, given the importance of wages to workers, methodology (page 16). Non-responsive being able to demonstrate that workers are companies were also given the opportunity to receiving a living wage is one of the most telling provide a statement about why they chose not to signs that a corporate labour rights system is engage with this research. These statements are genuinely responsive to the needs of workers. included on page 80. It is encouraging then, that the proportion of companies seeking to improve wages has Photo credit: Arne Hoel / The World Bank, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0.
11 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY KEY FINDINGS
continued to rise. In 2013, the proportion of Companies accredited with ECA include Anthea companies that could demonstrate improved Crawford, JETS, Cue Clothing, and R.M Williams. wages for workers was 11%, it has risen each year and now stands at 42%. It is worth nothing Trade Unions and Collective Bargaining however, that (in most cases) wages are still below It is workers that have the best visibility over a living wage level and only apply to a portion of workplace conditions. One of the most effective workers in the supply chain. ways to address exploitation is ensuring that Ethical Brands such as Liminal Apparel, Etiko, workers can organise and collectively bargain Mighty Good Undies, Freeset, Nudie, RREPP, and to see their rights realised. Research by the ILO Kowtow were the stand out performers for living has affirmed that nations with higher levels of wage payment. They each demonstrated that a collective bargaining also have a tendency toward significant proportion of workers in their better wages for low income earners. manufacturing factories were receiving living While progress in the last year has been promising wages, a number also demonstrated living wages in this area, the challenge remains substantial. The for their fabric production. number of companies that could report that at Hanesbrands is one of the leading companies least 50% of their suppliers had democratically- among larger producers. More than 80% of its elected trade unions, or collective bargaining manufacturing, and a significant proportion of its agreements has doubled since our 2016 research fabrics production, comes from company owned — however this is from a very low base. The facilities. Hanesbrands pays workers in all these proportion still languishes at around one out of facilities a living wage. every five facilities. Other commendable efforts includeKmart The low levels of unionisation and collective Australia, which has benchmarked wages in a few bargaining reflect one of the most troubling of its Bangladeshi facilities and is now beginning to challenges identified in our research: worker implement initiatives to raise wage levels (see empowerment. This has consistently been the page 46 for more information); Patagonia, which worst performing area for the industry. In the 2017 pays a premium in its Fairtrade USA certified Ethical Fashion Report, the median grade for this factories to directly benefit workers; and pillar of companies’ labour rights management companies that are accredited with Ethical systems was a low D+. To turn this around the Clothing Australia (ECA). ECA ensures that wage industry must do more to listen and respond to levels and working conditions for Australian worker voice, and in particular, improve efforts
Photo credit: Baptist World Aid Australia World Baptist credit: Photo production (at a minimum) meet with Australian towards collective bargaining and the payment of At a sewing factory in Cambodia. standards (see page 43 for more on ECA). a living wage.
12 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY CONCLUDING COMMENTS
Concluding Comments companies could argue that the responsibility to emphasising those areas of the supply chain that The garment industry can be a tremendous force uphold worker rights rested with their suppliers. are of higher risk. for good. Now, cultural and consumer expectations have This report hopes to assist those efforts and, in shifted and, as they’ve changed, so too has the In Cambodia, the industry employs 700,000 doing so, help the fashion industry realise its political and regulatory environment. workers, around 4.5% of the population. In potential to contribute to a world free from Bangladesh, the number of people employed by California, the United Kingdom, and the European poverty and exploitation. the industry has doubled in the last decade, and Union have each introduced regulations that Photo credit: Daro Sulakauri/Asian Development Bank, used under is now above 4 million. require companies to disclose what they are doing Creative Commons License 2.0. to address slavery risks throughout their supply Cambodians have been able to agitate for a near chains. The French and the Dutch governments tripling of the minimum wage for garment have gone a step further, calling for mandatory workers, despite heavy handed (and at times plans to address labour rights and environmental lethal) government crackdowns. And with global risks. Australia, inspired by the UK’s Modern attention drawn to Bangladesh, wages have Slavery Act, has just announced an inquiry into increased 87% and factory safety has improved whether similar legislation should be nationally substantially. adopted. Beyond jobs, garment production generates over a This shift in expectations has been welcome, and trillion dollars of export revenue, predominantly for the progress that the industry has made has been low and middle income countries. In Bangladesh commendable. But consumers, companies, and and Cambodia, the industry respectively governments can still do more to help accelerate accounted for 89.2% and 77.4% of total these gains. merchandise exports in 2014. You, as consumers, can do more by preferencing The industry has fuelled the growth of economies those companies doing the most to uphold the and at the same time, facilitated millions of people rights of workers in their supply chains, and by migrating from lives of subsistent rural agriculture calling on those that aren’t to do better. into factory work, giving them hope of a better life Companies can do more by strengthening their for themselves and their families. labour rights systems and by ensuring that However, we know that wherever measures haven’t workers, from farm to factory, receive a living been sufficient to uphold the rights of workers, the wage. And the Australian and New Zealand industry has also driven forced labour, child labour, governments can do more by introducing unsafe working conditions and exploitation. legislation requiring companies to publicly report Expectations of the role of individual companies on the measures taken to address slavery and At the Turkmenbashi Tekstil Kompleksi in Turkmenistan, to address these issues have changed. Once, exploitation throughout their supply chains, where over 3,000 mainly female workers are employed.
13 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY VISUAL OVERVIEW A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– C Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac Max
Traceability
Monitoring
FINAL MANUFACTURING Living Wage
Traceability
Monitoring
INPUTS Living Wage
Traceability
Monitoring
RAW MATERIALS Living Wage
Key: 100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies 14 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY VISUAL OVERVIEW M–Z
OVERALL GRADE A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+
This table provides a summary on how companies have performed on three of the most significant elements needed for a strong labour rights management system. It breaks down by tier of the supply chain the percentage of facilities that have Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann been traced, are being monitored and are paying workers a living wage. Traceability
Monitoring
FINAL MANUFACTURING Living Wage
Traceability
Monitoring
INPUTS Living Wage
Traceability
Monitoring
RAW MATERIALS Living Wage
Key: 100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies 15 Methodology
This section outlines the aims and scope of our research, the process of data collection and 2evaluation, and our company grading system.
16 METHODOLOGY
Aims While a number of the areas we assess will provide a proxy for how well a brand is able to manage its Our research provides a panorama of ethical Comment on non-responsive environmental impacts, we do not directly assess sourcing practices in the fashion industry as a companies resource for consumers, corporations, investors environmental impact for this report. It is our intent Brands which are non-responsive, along with and policymakers. that this will be a part of our future research. those that do not provide any substantive We seek to empower consumers to make more In 2017, our research covered 106 companies of information, are indicated in this report by informed and ethical choices in purchasing varying sizes across men’s, women’s and children’s an asterisk next to their name. They were apparel and footwear, and give investors insight apparel and footwear. It is worth emphasising also given the opportunity to provide a into supply chain governance. We aim to help that Baptist World Aid Australia does not do site short statement as to why they chose not to businesses with benchmarking and learnings, and inspections of factories. Therefore, our ratings are respond, and these can be found on page 80. identify issues for policymakers to address. By not an assessment of actual conditions on the We acknowledge that many of the non- presenting the performance of companies relative ground, but rather an analysis of the strength of responsive brands may be doing more to to each other via an A–F grading updated on an a company’s labour rights systems. We rely on improve their ethical sourcing than we have annual basis, our goal is to encourage individual data that is publicly available, alongside evidence been able to assess them on. However, if companies and the industry as a whole to engage of systems and practices that are provided by brands do not disclose, or are unwilling to in constant improvement of their ethical sourcing companies to conduct our assessments. disclose, what they are doing to ensure that practices. workers are not exploited in their supply At a system level, we recognise the positive chains, then it becomes near impossible for Data collection consumers and the public to know if these impact that the apparel industry can have around We assess a large selection of companies on brands are investing sufficiently to mitigate the world. Our goal is to contribute to ending 40 specific criteria at three critical stages of the these risks. worker exploitation and alleviating poverty supply chain as a proxy for the entire fashion in the developing countries where apparel is supply chain. manufactured. In conducting a brand evaluation, our research We actively seek to engage brands (and pursue team first assesses a brand’s own publications contact with non-responsive brands) using at least Scope of the research alongside any relevant independent reports and three different mediums: phone calls, emails and Our research classifies the garment manufacturing data. Our team then sends its findings — marked letters. All non-responsive companies receive our supply chain into three stages of production: final against the assessment criteria outlined above findings twice by post. Letters are also mailed to stage, inputs stage and raw materials, as defined — to the brand for comment and further input, the board chair and CEO. This process ensures that on the following page. Across these three stages which is reviewed in turn. We seek to engage in almost every instance where a brand has not of production, we look at four broad themes of with brands, collect evidence and understand responded, it is because it has intentionally chosen social responsibility: policies, knowing suppliers, their processes and systems; however, our not to do so. auditing/supplier relationships and worker voice, research team does not conduct any factory floor In this edition of the report, 83% of brands have also defined on the following page. inspections as part of the grading process. engaged directly with our research process. 17 METHODOLOGY
What the research covers Policies Knowing suppliers Auditing and supplier Worker empowerment Our research collected and evaluated data (traceability and relationships (worker voice and from apparel companies using the following transparency) living wage) classification of the supply chain and themes of social responsibility. Why it matters: Policies Why it matters: In Why it matters: Monitoring Why it matters: For a labour form the standards order to ensure that facilities and building rights system to improve that brands want their worker rights are being relationships are critical to working conditions, workers production to adhere upheld, brands need to ensuring policies are adhered must be empowered, allowed RAW MATERIALS to. They are the baseline know which facilities to and improvements in a voice, and have their most • Cotton (farming) by which a brand can are responsible for the working conditions are critical concerns addressed. measure the effectiveness production of their being delivered. While no It is workers themselves who
• Wool, rawhide etc of its overall efforts to product. monitoring process is perfect, have the best visibility of (husbandry, shearing etc) uphold worker rights. high quality monitoring working conditions. What we assess: How • Crude Oil for synthetic helps to provide a better What we assess: much of the supply What we assess: Whether understanding of the fibres, plastics, etc Provisions to prohibit chain a company has workers are able to unite conditions of workers. A focus (extraction, refining) forced labour and child traced; what it does to through democratic trade on strengthening relationships labour, allow for freedom monitor and address unions; whether collective allows trust building, and of association and protect subcontracting; what bargaining agreements increases a brand’s capacity worker health and safety; efforts it is undertaking have been established; to drive change. whether a brand intends to trace the remainder of whether effective grievance its policies to cover its supply chain; a brand’s What we assess: What mechanisms are in place; INPUTS PRODUCTION the entire production transparency and how percentage of production whether workers are receiving process; whether the willing they are to be facilities are audited; whether a living wage so they can • Textiles production brand is undertaking held accountable through unannounced and offsite support their families; a (ginning, spinning, knitting, important measures the information it shares worker interviews and brand’s efforts in moving dying, embroidery) towards improving about it’s supply chain.” anonymous worker surveys towards paying living wage. • Leather (tanning) working conditions in are used; whether checks are • Plastic (processing, moulding) facilities, such as multi- done on high risk activities stakeholder collaboration like labour brokers and and preventing price recruitment fees; whether squeezing. the brand is willing to be transparent about its results and remedial actions; whether brands are actively involved in building supplier relationships FINAL STAGE PRODUCTION through consolidation, • Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) collaboration, supplier training and long term relationship (cutting, sewing, manufacturing building. printing)
18 METHODOLOGY
Data evaluation To verify the data provided by companies, we review company responses and ask for clarification and supporting documentation. In some instances, we have relied on audit data provided to us by companies to verify conditions and benefits that workers receive. Our research team and company representatives work through the survey questions until both parties are satisfied that the data presented is an accurate representation of the company’s policies and processes. To ensure consistency in our assessment of companies, after finalising company responses, we cross-check survey responses. This means that all data is reviewed at least three times by three different people.
We then evaluate the data collected by using a Photo credit: Adam Cohn, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0. survey tool developed with input from supply Men unloading cotton from a truck. chain specialists, NGOs and company experts. This tool provides a grade for each company and of that company’s products. Low graded strength of their efforts, similar to awarding grades across each area of our research. companies are those that are not taking these on a bell curve (i.e. best performers receiving A’s, initiatives, or those choosing not to disclose if they worst receiving F’s and many in the middle). Grading are taking such initiatives. Some company structures encompass several The grades awarded in this report are a measure It is important to note that a high grade does brands with differing labour rights management of the efforts undertaken by each company to not mean that a company has a supply chain systems. In these cases, we have graded brands mitigate the risks of forced labour, child labour which is free from exploitation. Rather, it is an separately and provided an average for the and worker exploitation throughout their supply indicator of the efforts and the strength of the company that owns or distributes them. Individual chains. Higher grades correspond to companies systems a company is undertaking to reduce the brands corresponding to a single company are with a labour rights management system that, risk of exploitation. Furthermore, our grading listed, alongside their grade, in the Brand Index on if implemented well, should reduce the risk and methodology is designed to spread companies out page 47. extent of worker exploitation in the production along the ‘A–F continuum’ based on the relative
19 MADE IN …
This section examines the prevalence of child labour, forced labour and worker exploitation in a global context. It provides insights into specific risks of abuse that exist in garment production across multiple countries, as well as stories of the positive impact the apparel industry can have on the lives of workers. 3All stories and images are used with permission.
20 MADE IN … BANGLADESH
The garment industry is central to Bangladesh’s gesture, as it is a legally binding agreement and Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety) has made economy, employing around 5 million workers. brands are collectively contributing $10 million important adjustments to the garment industry towards guaranteeing a safe working environment there, many insist that change is still too slow. Cheap labour makes Bangladesh a popular for the garment industry in Bangladesh.1 Inspections are behind schedule. The Accord sourcing country for foreign companies. Three years since its inception in 2013 as a covers only 60% of Bangladesh’s RMG industry, However cheap labour means exploitatively response to the Rana Plaza tragedy, close to and the Accord’s own executive director estimates that less than half of all exporting factories have low wages and risk-filled working conditions — 3,700 inspections and re-inspections have been inspected.3 In other words, there may be the Rana Plaza collapse was a prominent but been conducted. According to Union Network International (UNI), one of two global union as many as 3.5 million workers who still have no far from isolated incident in a series of deadly signatories, over 100,000 safety issues have been protection against hazardous labour conditions. factory accidents. identified and more than half of these have now Global will also stands opposed to the Bangladeshi been reported or resolved.2 government’s inertia in prosecuting those responsible for Rana Plaza and other factory The Accord: Improvements in safety tragedies in the country — Although culpable Two hundred and seventeen companies, NGOs The Accord: Still a long way to go Awareness of building safety in Bangladesh homicide charges have been laid against factory and global and Bangladesh trade unions have and global will to improve conditions remain owners like Delwar Hossain (Tazreen Fashions signed the Accord which covers 1,661 factories. strong, but while the Accord (and the voluntary factory fire, 2012), at the time of this report’s The Accord is more than lip-service or a symbolic publication not one factory owner has been Photo by ASaber91, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0. successfully prosecuted. And, while the spotlight is on safety in Bangladesh, the country’s minimum wage does not constitute even a quarter of the estimated living wage.4 Millions of Bangladeshis remain unable to provide for their families’ basic needs.
1 Bangladesh Accord: Guide for Potential Signatories 2015. 2 UNI Global Union — The Bangladesh Accord. Includes 75% of electrical problems resolved. According to UNI, 53,091 of 103,846 (51%) hazards reported/resolved; according to Accord executive director, Rob Wayss, 64%: see Kaye 2016. 3 Kaye 2016. 4 Global Living Wage Coalition.
Dhaka, Bangladesh. The country’s capital is home to an estimated 14.5 million people, many of whom work in the apparel industry. 21 MADE IN … BANGLADESH
SALAHEYA’S STORY: Struggling to support her family Salaheya Khatun was a child bride and teen mother who suffered brutal domestic violence before she found a homeworker job stitching quilts. But poverty led her to leave her family and become a garment worker at a popular UK retailer’s supplier in Dhaka.
Now in her mid-20s, Salaheya is working 72-hour weeks and earning just 7000 Taka a month (roughly AUD$113). That’s only about half of a living wage!1 Sewing from 8am to 5pm, she then does three hours of overtime before returning to her room in a nearby slum, a tiny space she shares with two other garment workers. Salaheya only sees her daughter once every two to three months — her parents care for the child, but they live in a village six hours away.
Because she is sending her parents almost half / Labour Behind the Label. Stilwell Heather credit: Photo of her 7000 Taka salary to help care for her Bangladeshi garment worker Salaheya Khatun. daughter, Salaheya cannot afford to cover her own basic needs. Salaheya also explains that the factory where she “I just want to be able “I am in debt by around 1000 Taka every month works is hostile to unions — about 50 employees to support my family.” because I need to pay for groceries and supplies were fired for attempting to join one. She sees Salaheya, Bangladeshi on credit. I need to find work at a factory with a brand representatives visit the factory but has garment worker higher salary,” she says. “I just want to be able to never been given the opportunity to speak support my family.” with them.
1 Global Living Wage Coalition. 22 MADE IN … CAMBODIA
Apparel is key to Cambodian industry, making Labour Organization (ILO) factory assessments a In fact, the two are related: because 60–80% up 80% of the country’s total exports. 700,000 prerequisite for exporting factories. They’ve gone of garment workers belong to 30 unions and a step further by publishing those audits. associations — compared to 5% across other workers make garments for a living, supporting It’s been 15 years since the ILO’s Better Factories industries — these labour unions can advocate 1 around 2 million Cambodians. program began in Cambodia. Relative to other on behalf of almost 600,000 workers. Thanks apparel-producing countries, Cambodia is strong to dialogue and conflict resolution between Minimum wage and unionisation on worker wage and voice. Almost all factories employers and employees, workplace rights Cambodia has developed a niche for ethical are now paying a minimum wage and there education, legal support for workers, and public production in the garment industry, being the is a high level of unionisation thanks to Better media campaigns on the plight of garment first country in the world to make International Factories. workers, industry wages have climbed to US$153 per month in 2017.2
Piece wages and gender inequality Despite the positive changes seen with respect to wages, there are some concerning signs that ‘piece wages’ may compromise worker safety. Earning a piece wage, rather than a salary based on hours worked, means that a worker is paid per garment. The pressure to create more clothes in less time puts workers at risk of exhaustion and incentivises overtime. Product quality also deteriorates as a result. Another point of concern is the uneven impact of conditions on women, who make up 90% of garment industry workers. Piece wages and the lack of job security afforded by short-term contracts weaken both the health of overworked women and their position within their own households and communities.
1 Merk 2016.
Photo credit: Chhor Sokunthea / World Bank, used under / World Chhor Sokunthea credit: Photo 2.0. Licence Commons Creative 2 Deutsche Welle 2016. A garment worker in Phnom Penh sews garter to a skirt.
23 MADE IN … CAMBODIA
THEARY’S STORY: From garment worker to development professional Theary Som had heard that being an apparel worker was a good employment opportunity to set you up for your future. So, at 16, she left high school and moved with her family to Phnom Penh, where she found a job at a garment factory.
She, like the five hundred other Cambodian men and women at the factory, worked for a Chinese company producing uniforms for a US brand. She spent seven years working here, and a total of eight in Cambodia’s garment factories. When Theary first started as a sewer, Better Factories did not yet exist in Cambodia and the conditions for workers were poor. Only one of her co-workers was a union member. Theary’s workday started at 7am and officially ended at 6pm; one Photo supplied by Theary Som. Theary supplied by Photo hour was given for lunch, but she regularly worked an additional two hours of overtime in the evening. Theary Som left the Cambodian garment industry to study English and now works for an NGO serving her local community. She was there seven days a week, with only one day off a month. years. During that time, she received a university Theary is still in contact with her friends at the It was exhausting work but Theary was committed degree in accounting. garment factory. And even though they tell her to preparing for her future. In her gruelling time as Theary now coordinates an education program that conditions have improved, they still look at a sewer, she managed to save up enough money for poor children in her community. She has loved Theary and tell her how blessed she is to have to leave the garment factory and study English. watching the kids grow — some of her former made a better life for herself and her family. With these language skills, she found a job at a students are now teenagers. She says their English She has shown them there is a future beyond not-for-profit, where she has now been for six is now better than hers! the apparel industry factories.
24 MADE IN … CHINA
China is the world’s largest textiles producer. Labour shortages in the Pearl River Delta gave the production schedules and increased demands. In 2015/16, it fell to second place behind India 30 million migrant workers in the region greater So, a workday may be as long as 17 hours, and no leverage to bargain with employers. However, rest day is guaranteed. Compounding this situation in cotton production, but remains the biggest there has been an increasing clampdown on union is the fact that overtime may only be paid yearly consumer of cotton, importing from countries activity coinciding with government concerns — meaning workers do not even see the fruit of like the United States. China continues to lead about a shift in production to cheaper countries their overtime from month to month. This gives like Vietnam. employers significant power over workers who the world in polyester production. The Country become more vulnerable to exploitation. is also infamous for restricting union activity. Excessive overtime Of the audit reports we viewed in our research this The key risk for worker rights in China is excessive year, there was a pattern of overtime rates as high Wage increase overtime. Despite relatively good wage growth, the as 200%, and even 300% for public holidays — a Of the world’s top garment-producing nations, current salaries are insufficient to cover the cost of huge incentive for poor labourers to work longer China has seen a significant rise in worker wages, living, leading most workers to seek overtime. hours. In some cases, especially in China, what which in Shanghai almost doubled between 2010 To address a lack of ordering predictability from workers earned in overtime was higher than their and 2016. The current minimum wage, which varies brands, factories use overtime to meet spikes in base wage. by region, is now 2190 yuan (US$327) per month in Shanghai — merely 57% of what Asia Floor Wage considers a living wage.1 Despite severe restrictions on union activity, worker strikes are contributing to this progress. Organisations are finding ways to empower workers — for example, China Labour Watch educates workers on labour rights and collective bargaining, and provides free advice and counselling services for them via a hotline. In the same vein, the China Labour Bulletin, which offers legal assistance for workers disputing their employers, is building a network of trade union representatives and has put together a Collective Bargaining Handbook for worker training.
1 ‘Wages and employment’, China Labour Bulletin 2016. China sets its
minimum wage rate by region. In Shanghai, where wages are highest, 2.0. Licence Commons used under Creative Ed-meister, credit: Photo this went from 1,120 yuan in 2010 to 2,190 yuan (US$327) in 2016. Living wage calculation based on Asian Floor Wage for China, which Clothing factory in Dongguan, China. is US$570. 25 MADE IN … CHINA
HAN’S STORY: Labour rights activism in China Independent unions are banned in China — only the All-China Federation of Trade Unions (ACFTU) is authorised to resolve disputes between employers and employees. In response to concerns that the ACFTU represents managers more often than it does workers, around 70 labour NGOs have sprung up, many out of Hong Kong.
One of these labour NGOs was the Panyu Workers’ Centre (PWC). It supported workers at the Lide Shoe Factory — which produces for brands like Calvin Klein, Coach and Ralph Lauren — educating them about their rights. After over 2,500 workers went on strike they were, collectively, able to negotiate overtime, social insurance and housing contributions with factory management. It was a great achievement, but it came at a heavy China Labour Bulletin. credit: Photo cost. In December 2015, four staff members of the Meng Han received a jail sentence for his labour rights activism on behalf of factory workers. PWC were arrested. Three men and one woman were eventually convicted and sentenced despite They were pressured into making false statements home as part of state pressure exerted again union questions over the protection of their civil rights in court about being duped by “hostile” foreign organisers. Meng refused to assist the case against during the legal process. Director Zeng Feiyang organisations to “incite” workers into engaging in Zeng in return for a lighter sentence, insisting that and colleagues Tang Huanxing and Zhu Xiaomei “extreme” behaviour. Former PWC staff member PWC’s role was vital because the government and were detained without access to lawyers before Meng Han was convicted the following month for ACFTU let workers down. being found guilty in September 2016 of “ignoring “gathering crowds to disrupt public order.”2 He national laws and organising mass gatherings that had been detained beyond the legally permitted 1 Hong Kong Free Press, 27 September 2016. disturbed social order.”1 time, and his parents had been harassed at their 2 Lai 2016.
26 MADE IN … INDIA
Globally, India is the largest producer of cotton Similarly, the Better Cotton Initiative has been and has the largest land area under cotton improving production in ten states in India since 2009. This improved the livelihoods of 270,000 cultivation, accounting for around 26% of BCI farmers in the 2014 harvest.3 BCI also partners cotton production and a quarter of all cotton- ginners and spinners, strengthening traceability producing land. However, 90% of Indian cotton and standards at the inputs stage of apparel production. is genetically modified, which means that the seed costs farmers more to buy and are not Empowering cotton farmers is also good for the environment, as these communities have an 1 reusable. India is also a hotspot for human interest in refining farming techniques in order to trafficking and forced labour. Much of this increase yields. Methods that maintain and care takes the form of bonded labour in all stages for the land — for example, by reducing the use of pesticides and other chemicals — mean that it will of garment production. continue to serve families for generations to come. Didier Photographer: © Fairtrade credit: Photo used with permission. Gentilhomme, Women harvesting cotton at a Chetna Organic farm. Fairtrade and Better Cotton Farms Human trafficking and forced labour Given India’s prominent place in global cotton Modern-day slavery is a reality despite being Human trafficking and forced labour — including production and the prevalence of genetically outlawed in almost all countries. The ILO estimate child prostitution and forced marriage — are illegal modified cotton in the country, the work of that 21 million are subject to forced labour, with but enforcement is still problematic. Forced labour Fairtrade and the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) some estimates suggesting up to 40% of victims is outlawed in the Constitution but curiously not is of particular significance. are in India.4 There are even generations of covered in the regulation of human trafficking under the national penal code. Fairtrade certification provides direct traceability workers born into bonded labour, never knowing from cotton farms through to factories because life outside the factory. Owners create a situation India has ratified four of the International Labour member farmers then sell to member spinners whereby the worker repays a debt by performing Organisation’s eight fundamental conventions, but and ginners, and so on. This transparency in labour — however the interest is set at extortionary is yet to ratify conventions relating to child labour, the supply chain, when paired with the worker rates so that the worker is essentially held as a freedom of association and collective bargaining, empowerment that Fairtrade standards promote, slave, spending their lives repaying the debt. living wage, occupational health and safety, is effecting real change for cotton farmers in The fact that 75% of India’s rural workers and 69% working hours, social security or migrant workers. Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Orissa, and of its urban workers are in the informal economy Karnataka. Fairtrade’s work with Chetna Organic exacerbates their vulnerability. Other factors 1 Better Cotton Initiative; Vachharajani 2016. is directly benefitting 80,000 Indian farmers, increasing the risk of slavery are embedded caste, 2 Nath 2016. 2 5 3 Better Cotton Initiative. including 6,000 cotton farmers. gender, and socio-economic inequalities. 4 International Labour Organization 5 Global Slavery Index.
27 MADE IN … INDIA
PADMA BAI’S STORY: Transforming her community through Fairtrade Padma Bai is challenging socio-cultural norms with her agricultural leadership. A tribal Girijan farmer, she was elected sarpanch (statutory village head) of eight villages that are home to more than 2,000 Fairtrade farmers. Padma Bai herself cultivates cotton, red gram, black gram, castor and soya on her three acres of family land in Patelguda Village in the Telangana province of India.
This extraordinary woman has used her positions of influence to transform her community and empower her people. She built cement roads in three villages and one fair weather road with dry mud using Fairtrade Premium Funds. She arranged
for the government to make ponds for rainwater Singh. Devina credit: Photo harvesting and made clean water available in the Padma Bai and her husband. village school through a water pump. She has been a member of Chetna Organics, a as pick-axes, sickle, spades, hoes and good things to say about his wife’s achievements. Fairtrade certified producer organisation in India wheelbarrows. The centre then hires out these “Women can influence laws better,” he says. “I’m since 2007. Her relationship with Chetna made it tools to farmers in neighbouring villages. For poor very proud of her.” possible for her to secure a Rs. 30,000 loan from farmers who cannot afford to buy their own tools Many Australian Fairtrade companies source their the Fairtrade Premiums Committee. Using these the marginal rate of 2–5 rupees per day equips products from Chetna Organic’s cooperatives. funds, Padma Bai established Exacuniverse, a them with the resources they need to effectively Those included in our report are: Etiko, Kowtow, equipment hiring centre. cultivate their land. Liminal and Mighty Good Undies. Under the guidance of Chetna Organics, her Her husband Atram Rajeshwar works as a field venture invests in labour reducing tools such assistant at Chetna Organics and he only has 28 WHERE IS AUSTRALIAN COTTON GROWNMADE IN? … AUSTRALIA NORTHERN FAST FACTS • Higher temperatures Image supplied by Cotton Australia. allow growers to plant The average Australian cotton farm: Australia is the fourth largest cotton The Australian cotton industry today and harvest much • Has around 500 hectares of cotton, but earlier and later than exporter in the world, after India, the United Today, cotton growing and ginningNORTHERN occurs in the central valleys also produces other crops over 150 rural communities throughoutTERRITORY New States and Uzbekistan. When world cotton Towns in cotton regions • Season typically runs • Produces an average 11.5 bales per South Wales and Queensland, through largely Cotton regions from August/September hectare – more than three times the production dropped in 2015/16, Australian mechanised processes. Farms are family owned to February/March global average and operated. Clermont or from November/ yields increased, thanks to good rainfall and December to May/June • Is family owned and operated, and improved reservoir levels. Australia is now recognised as a world leader Emerald • Summer dominant QUEENSLAND rainfall provides jobs for around 7 people in sustainable cotton production, boasting the Biloela • Is irrigated highest yields globally and reducing pesticide Theodore The history of cotton in Australia WESTERN use by 95% in the last decade. Cotton Australia, The Australian cotton industry has a long history,AUSTRALIA the peak representative body for the farmers, with native varieties dating back thousands of co-developed the best management practices Dalby years and cottonseed arriving on the First Fleet. program (myBMP) and this formed the basis for St George Toowoomba CENTRAL By 1830, the colony of NSW was exporting small the standards of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Dirranbandi Cecil Plains BRISBANE • Season typically runs SOUTH Goondiwindi amounts of cotton back to England. of which Cotton Australia is also a member. More Mungindi from October/November RAIN GROWN AUSTRALIA than 10% of Australian cotton production is Better Moree to April/May The industrial revolution drove an increase in both Bourke Wee Waa • Mainly summer OR DRYLAND COTTON Walgett the supply and demand for cotton worldwide. Cotton, with this figure expected to rise annually Narrabri dominant rainfall to non- • Typically grown in the Northern and as local fashion brands increase their commitment Boggabri While the United States became the leading NEW Gunnedah seasonal rainfall in the Central regions cotton growing nation, the Civil War in the 1860s to sustainable sourcing. SOUTH Warren more southern areas Menindee Trangie • Opportunity crop planted based on led to a drop in American production, opening up WALES Australian cotton is now sharing its expertise Narromine stored soil moisture, forecast summerthe market to farms and gins in Australia. abroad because it recognises that synthetic fibres, Condobolin rain and cotton prices However, after peaking in the 1870s, Australian not other cotton producers, represent the greatest Hillston SYDNEY SOUTHERN cotton production dipped and by 1886, only competition. This year for example, Cotton Gri th • Longer season is 15 acres was being cultivated for cotton and the Australia is partnering with BCI and the Australian Hay Narrandera required to allow cotton industry had all but disappeared. While there was Government to fund an additional 50,000 Jerilderie to develop and grow due CANBERRA some recovery in the early 1900s, it wasn’t until Pakistani cotton farmers into the BCI program to cooler temperatures 1 • Season typically runs the 1960s and 70s that dam construction enabled by improving their farming practices. TORIA VIC from October to May irrigated cotton production to revitalise the Brands in our research purchasing Australian MELBOURNE • Winter dominant rainfall industry. cotton are Kmart, H&M, Rivers, Rockmans, and Target. 1 Cotton Australia 2016, ‘Thousands of Pakistani cotton growers to benefit from global cotton industry partnership’. Cotton farming regions in New South Wales and Queensland.
29
The above map is for illustrative purposes only. Exact geographical locations and landmarks may not be 100% accurate.
4 | THE AUSTRALIAN COTTON INDUSTRY THE AUSTRALIAN COTTON INDUSTRY | 5 MADE IN … AUSTRALIA
SIMON’S STORY: Aussie cotton farmers leading the world Third generation farmer Simon Corish certainly knows his cotton. He’s been living and working on his family’s cotton farm since university, alongside his parents, two brothers, and a sister.
The family farm, “Mundine”, is located on the NSW/ Queensland border and like all Australian cotton farms rotates cotton with crops like wheat and chickpeas to improve soil health. The farm has full accreditation in Australian cotton’s environmental program (myBMP) that includes 50 standards on worker health and safety, and is part of the global BCI. “Sustainability and the fair treatment of workers is not something we add on to our farming system, it’s embedded in everything we do. BCI is recognising cotton farmers for doing the right thing, and we’re proud to be involved in it,” he said. Photo credit: Cotton Australia. Cotton credit: Photo These days, Simon plays more of a management Simon Corish and his family on their cotton farm. role in the family business, overseeing operations, making decisions and managing teams of workers. Simon’s passion for cotton has grown alongside “Cotton is a dynamic industry here in Australia “We use a lot of science and technology to help his industry commitment. He is the current Cotton where farmers are prepared to share information make good decisions. Satellite imagery helps Australia Chairman and sits on the BCI board with with each another to help us all improve. We’re in us schedule cotton irrigations and fertiliser, we some of the world’s biggest brands and NGOs. the process of converting half the farm to more monitor pest insects daily and review data from in- As for the future, much of the focus will remain on water efficient systems like drip and bankless field moisture probes to work out exactly what the making an already efficient farming system even irrigation and we’re trialling drones to manage crop needs as the season progresses,” Simon said. better. our cotton with more precision.”
30 Policies
This section evaluates the policies that companies have in place to address the risk of worker exploitation in supplier and subcontracted factories. It also checks their involvement in multi-stakeholder initiatives and their efforts to address their responsibility to manage the pressure placed on suppliers to fill orders. Most companies have now adopted policies which set the minimum working conditions they expect of their suppliers and factories. Policies are the first step to creating a robust 4 supply chain management system.
31 POLICIES INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Does the company have a code Does the code apply to multiple Does the code prohibit use of Does the company participate in that addresses the ILO Four levels of the supply chain including regular and excessive overtime? any multi-stakeholder initiatives? Fundamental Principles and Rights raw materials? (Partial = applies to at Work? inputs production)
YES 87% YES 21% YES 74% YES 56%
A Code of Conduct includes the By stating that their code applies to Regular and excessive overtime is Multi-stakeholder initiatives bring basic worker rights which supplier multiple levels of their supply chain, a significant and ongoing issue for together a diverse range of actors factories are expected to observe. companies are accepting that the worker welfare in the apparel to solve complex problems that are At a minimum, a good code of sphere of their responsibility is not industry. Long hours reduce worker hard for any single stakeholder to conduct will include the ILO’s Four limited to their final stage safety, as most workplace accidents resolve independently. They can Fundamental Principles and Rights manufacturers. We know that it is happen when workers are tired. Long include input and resources from at Work. This prohibits child labour, the deeper, more removed levels of hours also place undue stress on a unions, civil society organisations, forced labour and discrimination, and the supply chain which are at large number of workers. Excessive companies, government and guarantees worker rights to freedom greatest risk of worker exploitation, overtime is often driven by low and research bodies. Many of these of association and collective which makes efforts to ensure that insufficient wages and pressure from initiatives, such as the Fair Labor bargaining. these suppliers operate in line with managers to extend working hours Association, Fairtrade, the Ethical Among the apparel companies we code standards critical. 21% of or meet deadlines. The vast majority Trading Initiative, United Nations assessed, 87% have Codes of companies reported applying their of companies assessed have codes Global Compact, Better Work Conduct that include at least these Code of Conduct to multiple levels of that include standards addressing Program, Better Cotton Initiative or basic principles. A further 2% have their supply chain, including to the limits on overtime. Ethical Clothing Australia have Codes of Conduct or other ethical level of raw material production shown great promise in improving sourcing statements which include while a further 56% reported making working conditions. A total of 56% some of these basic principles. efforts to insist standards within their of companies reported active Code of Conduct are adhered to as participation in a multi-stakeholder far as their fabric production initiative. suppliers.
Key: YES PARTIAL NO 32 POLICIES BEST PRACTICE HIGHLIGHTS
Kathmandu: Mandatory Reporting potential risks of modern slavery. Based on these of Child & Forced Labour findings, adidas has developed a three-pronged In January 2017, Kathmandu approved a Modern Slavery Outreach Programme, a strategy comprehensive Mandatory Reporting of Child focusing on: & Forced Labour Policy. While most companies (1) rolling out training and awareness raising at prohibit the use of child and forced labour and inputs facilities, where brands traditionally have some have taken steps to reduce the risk and less oversight and control over child labour and prevent it happening, Kathmandu has adopted a trafficking prevention, and remediation; “hope for the best but always plan for the worst” (2) deepening its engagement in multi-stakeholder approach. Rather than punishing factories where initiatives such as the Fair Labor Association (FLA) exploitation is identified, the policy encourages and the International Labour Organization (ILO) to collaborative action between suppliers, local law collaboratively address issues in high-risk leather enforcement and NGOs to handle these incidents and rubber producing regions; and, if and when they occur. (3) addressing risks related to cotton farming and By setting out a clear process for reporting the Syrian refugee crisis in Turkey. child and forced labour, Kathmandu ensures that identified cases are appropriately escalated Although Turkey is one its smaller sourcing and effectively investigated, and the employee countries, adidas has an active team on the is protected and provided for. The thorough ground and is engaged in multi-stakeholder definitions in the policy make it difficult for initiatives there. In response to the influx of Syrian those who suspect child or forced labour to refugees, many of whom live outside official turn a blind eye, recognising that both child and refugee camps, adidas has teamed up with the forced labour are real risks in the apparel supply Turkish government, UNHCR, the FLA, local NGOs, chain. Kathmandu believes that this reporting and other brands to protect this vulnerable group. policy reflects the brand’s values of integrity Worker-centred initiatives include obtaining work Films/adidas. Meerkat credit: Photo and transparency. Drawing from international permits for refugees so that they can access An awareness raising poster, created in Arabic and Turkish, by conventions and existing policies from similar important entitlements, an anonymous hotline adidas in conjunction with UNHCR and the FLA. It reads, in Turkish, “Children should go to school. Not work!” companies, Kathmandu is now sharing their own serving both local Turkish-speaking workers industry-leading policy with other brands. and Arabic-speaking Syrian workers, as well as booklets outlining employment rights for Turkish adidas: Modern Slavery Outreach and Syrian workers. Other programs focus on suppliers, training them in the regulations The adidas Group has completed a risk-based around hiring refugees and strengthening risk assessment of its supply chain and identified management in this area.
33 Knowing Suppliers
This section measures the degree to which a company has traced its suppliers at three key stages of production: cut-make-trim, inputs and raw materials. It also looks at how transparent the 5company is, with respect to the location and nature of its suppliers.
34 KNOWING SUPPLIERS INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Has the company traced 100% all of its Is there a public list of suppliers? Does the company ensure that there is either facilities for the following stages of production no subcontracting or that all subcontracted (partial = some traced)? production adheres to code standards at final stage of production?
FINAL RAW FINAL INPUTS STAGE MATERIALS STAGE YES 72% YES 19% YES 76% YES 6% YES 26%
Tracing the location of suppliers is an important Publishing supplier lists is a way companies can It is common for direct suppliers to subcontract way in which a company can begin to take demonstrate to workers, consumers and the public orders out to other facilities. Where these responsibility for working conditions in its supply as a whole that they are committed to being held subcontractors are unauthorised or unmonitored chain. It’s almost impossible for companies to accountable to the workers in their supply chain. the possibility that workers will be exploited know that suppliers are adhering to code Transparency deepens the credibility of claims increases substantially. This remains one of the standards if they do not know who their suppliers companies make about their supply chain systems greatest areas of risk in the apparel supply chain. are. 76% of companies have traced all of their and engenders trust. Of the companies assessed, In acknowledgement of this, 72% of companies cut-make-trim factories, but the level of 26% (up from 16% last year) publish a full list of assessed have taken some steps at the final traceability tapers for the more removed parts of their cut-make-trim suppliers along with production stage to ensure that there is either the supply chain, particularly inputs and raw addresses. A further 16% received partial credit for no subcontracting, or that all subcontracted materials suppliers. It is in these parts of the supply either disclosing a portion of their supplier list, or production adheres to the standards laid out chain that sit outside of the purview of companies for disclosing it more indirectly through a channel in their code of conduct. that the risk of worker exploitation is both higher such as the Bangladesh Accord or Alliance for and least likely to be remedied. The six companies Worker Safety in Bangladesh. that have traced their entire cotton supply chain are all Fairtrade certified and have specifically set up their business model around a certification system which enables them to do so.
Key: YES PARTIAL NO 35 KNOWING SUPPLIERS BEST PRACTICE HIGHLIGHTS
Patagonia: Interactive supply chain map each item in Patagonia’s online catalogue includes yields (and resulting profits) and providing brands Our 2017 research found that an increasing information on the facilities used to manufacture with raw materials visibility previously thought number of companies are publishing their sourcing the particular product. impossible. BCI is fundamentally collaborative in countries and supplier lists. This is commonly done While the public availability of supplier details nature — besides cotton farmers, it works with via a link to a table of suppliers in the corporate is an important demonstration of a company’s ginners and spinners, brands and traders, and responsibility section of a company’s website. transparency, improving the accessibility of this NGOs known as “implementing partners” who However, some brands have gone a step further information to everyday consumers shows an conduct second-party audits. While the focus is on to make this data more consumer-friendly. even stronger commitment to transparency. We the farms, BCI’s activity spans the supply chain. Patagonia’s supplier list is a case in point. Its applaud the companies that have made it easier BCI’s pioneering brand members are increasing website contains a page with an interactive map for consumers to visualise and understand the their sourcing of BCI year on year — adidas is called The Footprint Chronicles. Factories, textile supply chain. aiming for 100% by 2018, Nike 100% by 2020, and mills, and farms are colour-coded, and their Other brands with helpful interactive maps include Levi’s 100% sustainable cotton by 2020 (95% BCI locations are marked with pins. Clicking on a pin Gap, Inditex, Nike and Nudie. and 5% organic or recycled cotton). H&M has a brings up a box with facility details, including target of 100% Better Cotton or other sustainable name and address, the number of workers, gender sources, such as recycled or organic cotton, by breakdown, the type of product manufactured at Growth of the Better Cotton Initiative 2020. In 2014, Better Cotton made up 8.8% of Our 2016 report described the impact that the BCI the facility, a photo, and a highlight on an initiative global cotton production; by 2020, BCI hopes cotton is having in helping farmers improve their to improve worker conditions there. Additionally, to cover farmers producing 30% of the market. Membership continues to rise. In February 2017, there were 1001 BCI members in 49 countries, including 66 brands and retailers, 861 manufacturers and suppliers (including fabric mills and spinners), 31 producer organisations and 33 civil society members. Of the companies included in our 2017 research, the following are also BCI members: ASOS, Cotton On Group, Country Road Group, David Jones,
Photo credit: Asim Hafeez / WWF UK. / WWF Asim Hafeez credit: Photo Esprit, Gap, Inditex, Kathmandu, Tommy Hilfiger (PVH), VF Corporation, and Next as a learner (not yet sourcing Better Cotton).
Pakistani cotton harvester. 36 Auditing & Supplier Relationships
This section focuses on how a company manages its relationship with suppliers to ensure working conditions meet the standards set out in its policies. It evaluates audit processes as well as training and other industry collaboration efforts that continue to support factories to 6better understand and provide decent working conditions.
37 AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Does the company audit 100% of its Does the company audit at least 75% of its traced Does the company share broad auditing traced facilities over a two-year period? final stage facilities with unannounced visits, results publicly? (partial = some monitored) offsite worker interviews or anonymous worker surveys? (partial = some)
FINAL RAW INPUTS STAGE MATERIALS YES 11% YES 22% YES 16% YES 52% YES 1%
Once a company has traced the location of Unannounced audits gain a far more accurate While most companies trace and audit their suppliers, audits are a useful tool to better picture of everyday operations in factories suppliers to ensure that basic working conditions understand the working conditions in their because factory managers and others in positions are adhered to, it takes a particularly mature facilities, and to identify instances of worker of influence have less warning time to hide abuses. approach to transparency and social responsibility exploitation. There is great diversity in the quality We also know workers are more likely to feel freer to admit that suppliers do not always meet of audits and their capacity to effectively capture to express concerns about their workplace when standards set for them. Consequently, only 22% of a true representation of working conditions. they are interviewed offsite and away from factory companies shared data about their broad auditing Brands can opt for third party or internal audits, management, or surveyed anonymously. These results with the general public. Baptist World Aid and many use a combination of the two. Neither three measures significantly affect the quality of believes that admissions of noncompliance do not is necessarily better or worse than the other. audits conducted. Only 11% of companies reported represent failures in social compliance, but rather Audits work best at improving working conditions auditing a majority of cut-make-trim facilities an important step towards greater transparency when coupled with effective corrective action with either unannounced visits, offsite worker and accountability that will drive improved plans, strong supplier relationships, training interviews or anonymous worker surveys working conditions. It is the companies that are programs on worker rights and perhaps most each year. unable to identify or admit to concerns in their importantly instruments to hear worker voice, supply chain which are most hampered from like union engagement and effective grievance improving. mechanisms.
Key: YES PARTIAL NO 38 AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Does the company have a safety incident Does the company actively improve leverage reporting and investigation procedure? and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
YES 64% YES 73%
The Rana Plaza tragedy highlighted the For brands to drive changes in working conditions importance of workers being able to effectively in factories it is critical that they build leverage and raise safety concerns. Initiatives such as the deepen supplier relationships. Relationships build Accord and the Alliance in Bangladesh have trust and provide a secure environment for provided alternative avenues for these issues to be companies and suppliers to invest in improving raised in that one country, but safety remains a real working conditions. Increasing leverage by problem for factories globally. Of the companies consolidating a company’s supplier base or by assessed, 64% checked that workers have access collaborating with others in the industry, improves to a procedure to report safety incidents and to the capacity for a company to advance positive have them further investigated. Some checked change in the facilities it sources from. In contrast, that these are present within the factory, while pursuing short term contacts based only on price others took the added step of offering an and product specifications can incentivise poor additional avenue through which workers could working conditions. Baptist World Aid is raise unresolved concerns. encouraged to find almost three quarters of brands are taking steps to improve leverage and relationship.
Key: YES PARTIAL NO 39 AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS BEST PRACTICE HIGHLIGHTS
Hanesbrands, Kookai and Rip Curl: connects Kookai and Rip Curl to the way their Lululemon: Foreign Migrant brand-owned factories business impacts those in their supply chain. Worker Standard Unlike most retailers who source through CMT Kookai Asia-Pacific’s founder, Rob Cromb, has a Initially implemented to target a vulnerable suppliers and agents, Australian-based companies personal connection with Fiji, where his company demographic in Taiwan, Lululemon’s Foreign Kookai and Rip Curl operate their own facilities owns two final stage facilities accounting for 90% Migrant Worker Standard (FMW Standard) has abroad. In addition to the leverage and control over of production. His decision in 1997 to source from been rolled out across all assessed facilities that working conditions and a greater ability to ensure the country where he grew up means that his rely on migrant labour. After consulting with its compliance with the company code of conduct, company is investing in training and upskilling Taiwanese suppliers — as well as the national owning the factories that produce their garments local workers. Currently those factories employ workforce development agency and foreign means that these brands are directly contributing a thousand Fijians. Kookai’s charity, Katalyst, migrant worker office, and other brands and to the local community. Facility ownership closely is engaged in other community development industries — the company developed its FMW projects there, including the provision of university Standard. Photo credit: Rip Curl scholarships for workers’ children and other Lululemon is collaborating with vendors to children in poor communities. implement the standard, which requires vendors to Rip Curl’s wetsuit production facility provides jobs “develop a written corporate policy for the hiring for 695 local people in Chiang Mai, Thailand. This and employment of Foreign Migrant Workers”. makes the company a major employer in the area. The FMW Standard encompasses recruitment, the Local staff benefit from a safe, clean and stable duration of the worker’s employment, and when working environment at a modern facility, and their employment ends. In this way, Lululemon receive employee entitlements and benefits. addresses a number of ethical sourcing and This in turn has flow-on benefits for their families worker conditions issues covered in our research: and the whole Chiang Mai community. for example, the standard prohibits the retention of identification documents by the facility, ensures On a larger scale, US company Hanesbrands has foreign migrant workers are trained in their for decades operated its own factories across Asia rights, and gives the brand greater visibility on and Central America and in the Jordan. Currently recruitment fees. 80–85% of production is from company-owned facilities. These are vertically integrated, meaning Lululemon is one of several companies in our Hanesbrands controls its supply chain from inputs research investing in supplier relationships in through to final stage production. Owning its own order to improve worker rights, especially those facilities allows Hanesbrands to invest in employees of foreign workers. The adidas Group, for example, and their communities, which in turn strengthens has also conducted targeted training to inputs suppliers in Taiwan, focusing on migrant labour The factory floor of Rip Curl’s wetsuit facility in the company’s engagement with civil society and Chiang Mai, Thailand. international unions. best practices.
40 Worker Empowerment This section focuses on how workers are empowered to have their voice heard in the supply chain through trade unions, 7collective bargaining agreements and grievance mechanisms.
41 WORKER EMPOWERMENT INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% Does the company have a functioning grievance Does the company have any systems or policies of final stage facilities? (partial = some) mechanism at final stage facilities? in place to rehabilitate child or forced labourers if discovered?
YES 21% YES 32% YES 24%
Freedom of association and the right of collective Grievance mechanisms enable workers to voice Documented cases of child and forced labour have bargaining are one of the ILO’s Four Fundamental concerns about violations to their rights and safety been associated with every stage of the apparel Principles and Rights at Work. Effective and to remedy them within the factory. Many supply chain. It is important that brands have a recognition of these rights empowers workers to companies rightly ask factories to establish internal remediation plan in place so that they are in a negotiate decent working conditions and fairer grievance mechanisms for workers to resolve good position to respond to the risk of these worst wages. Disappointingly, too few facilities in the complaints directly with their employers. forms of abuse occurring in their supply chain. apparel industry actually have an effective If child labour is found, we hope that brands are democratically elected trade union. This is a It is important that workers are additionally prepared to find a way to remove them from the practical limit on the expression of the right to join provided with an avenue to express their concerns situation, provide for the child’s education and or not join a worker representative body. to a third party, particularly since the factory may replace the lost income to the family. If forced Furthermore, 75% of assessed companies source be responsible for the abuse and may have already labour is found, brands should facilitate the from China, a country well known to have legal refused to rectify it. An alternative avenue for individual’s reintegration into the labour market restrictions on freedom of association. A fifth of raising grievance is also necessary because audits and transition to decent work with compensation companies (21%, up from 11% last year) reported only capture a snapshot of what is occurring in for any unpaid wages. Of the companies assessed, tracking a union presence in any of their facilities factories. Of companies assessed, 75% reported 24% reported having systems or policies in place but this stands in sharp contrast to the 87% of providing workers in a portion of their supply chain to rehabilitate child or forced labourers if they companies whose policies uphold freedom of with access to some form of external grievance were discovered in their cut-make-trim facilities, association and collective bargaining. It appears mechanism. with a further 39% reporting some less formal that while audits routinely ask workers if they feel commitments to action in this area. they are free to express this right, companies are less robust in checking for the presence of avenues for workers to do so in practice.
Key: YES PARTIAL NO 42 WORKER EMPOWERMENT BEST PRACTICE HIGHLIGHTS
ACT: Action, Collaboration, Transformation ACT members included in this report are ASOS, helps companies manage risk. As part of the A joint effort between brands from around the Coles, Esprit, H&M, Inditex, Kmart, Next, Target, accreditation process, ECA connects brands like world and IndustriALL Global Union, ACT focuses and Arcadia Group. Cue to the Textile Clothing and Footwear Union on collective bargaining as a way to improve of Australia to protect both factory workers and wages for garment workers. It is a collaborative Cue and Ethical Clothing Australia homeworkers. approach to the issue of living wages, which “While most clothing purchased by Australians Cue believes that “an ethical local supply chain isn’t Baptist World Aid considers fundamental to the is now manufactured offshore, Cue has made a just about doing the right thing — it’s also about improvement of worker conditions. deliberate business decision to source its cut- supporting an industry and its workers so that Cue While many companies — particularly small make-trim production right here in Australia. can remain onshore for many years to come.” brands — struggle to push for wage increases According to the company, “shorter lead times, Other ECA-accredited companies in our report when their market share is small and they do not smaller runs, maintaining a very high standard are: Anthea Crawford, JETS and R.M. Williams. have sufficient leverage with their suppliers, ACT of quality and the ability to react quickly to combines the influence of 17 brands (at the time of fashion trends are just some of the benefits of publication) as well as a global union and factory manufacturing locally. The ongoing growth and management and workers. In this way, wages can expansion of our brand is proof that a trade-off be agreed on at a national, industry-wide level between ethical production and profitability need rather than on a case-by-case basis. not exist.” With a former International Labour Organization The Australian textile, clothing and footwear (ILO) heavyweight assuming the leadership of industry today relies on an outsourcing model ACT later this year, the foundation hopes to get and in many cases involves the engagement of onto the G20 agenda. In addition to its work on homeworkers. Homeworkers, despite Australian collective bargaining, ACT is also developing law, are particularly vulnerable because of the responsible purchasing standards for members to informal nature of their work structure. Many are improve consistency for suppliers in dealing with workers from migrant backgrounds with a limited multiple brands. understanding of their labour rights. The collective bargaining agreements formulated This is where Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA), under this initiative are legally binding and the first an accreditation body funded by the Victorian country program has commenced in Cambodia. government, plays an important role. This multi- We’re looking forward to seeing how ACT stakeholder organisation administers the voluntary develops in the years to come, and the concrete Homeworker Code of Practice, designed to wins that this will create for garment workers in protect Australian garment workers. ECA ensures Cue Clothing Co. credit: Photo developing countries. a legally compliant local supply chain, which Cue staff preparing a garment design.
43 Living Wage
This section explores the importance of paying a Living Wage, examining the state of the industry, the potential cost of implementation and the status 8of companies in working to improve wages.
44 LIVING WAGE INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Has the brand developed a living wage What percentage of companies pay a living What percentage of facilities have projects methodology and calculated a living wage wage? (partial credit = payments substantially to improve wages? (partial = some) for each region that it operates in? above minimum wages)
FINAL RAW FINAL RAW FINAL RAW INPUTS INPUTS INPUTS STAGE MATERIALS STAGE MATERIALS STAGE MATERIALS YES 11% YES 1% YES 5% YES 25% YES 1% YES 2% YES 0% YES 8% YES 18%
According to many companies, one of the most 42% of companies were able to show that they Until the apparel industry widely pays workers significant impediments towards paying garment either paid a living wage to a portion of their final a living wage, it is important that companies take industry workers a living wage is the absence of stage workers, or that they pay some of them active steps to improve worker incomes above the global consensus on how to define and calculate substantially above the legal minimum wage. legal minimum in low wage countries where we a living wage. We have given credit to brands for The ultimate goal is for all workers to be paid a know workers live in poverty. Some of these adopting a methodology for themselves in the living wage, but these efforts to pay above the projects involve active engagement with unions particular regions their supply chain operates in, legal minimum are also welcomed until that goal and other worker representatives to negotiate or for participating in a multi-stakeholder initiative is reached. collective bargaining agreements addressing towards this end. Collecting current wage data wages workers agree to. Others involve efforts to and having a living wage benchmark is a critical continually improve wages above a benchmark, first step in understanding the ‘wage gap’ and such as the legal minimum wage. Initiatives such directing efforts and investments to improve as Fairtrade and the Better Cotton Initiative wages. It is encouraging to see that 48% of increase the incomes of cotton farmers by making companies are taking some steps towards terms of trade fairer, enhancing yields through adopting a methodology for at least some improved farming practices, and facilitating access portion of their supply chain. to markets. These initiatives account for the relatively high number of companies investing in projects at a raw materials level.
Key: YES PARTIAL NO 45 LIVING WAGE BEST PRACTICE HIGHLIGHTS
The payment of a living wage is perhaps the most Building on the findings of the study, Kmart is now Etiko (Fairtrade), Liminal (Fairtrade), Cue (ECA), important element in seeing the rights of workers piloting a wage monitoring system in Bangladesh Hanesbrands, Jets (ECA), Kowtow (Fairtrade), upheld, with low wages being the most consistent to enhance transparency and enable tracking of Nudie Jeans, R.M. Williams (ECA). issue raised by garment workers themselves. While wage movements over time. At the inputs stage, only Freeset paid 100% of its legal minimum wages remain below poverty levels, Kmart believes that measuring wages is just a workers a living wage, but 20 companies were also an important first step to achieving living wages starting point and that achieving sustainable awarded partial credit here. Other than Freeset, is knowing what the ‘living wage level’ is in each improvements in wages — and ultimately a only Fairtrade-certified companies — Etiko, region a company sources from. living wage — requires active collaboration with Liminal, Mighty Good Undies and Kowtow — were A living wage is one that allows for a worker other brands, retailers and manufacturers, and able to show that they paid a majority of their to cover their family’s basic needs and have partnerships with trade unions and governments. workers a living wage at this stage of production. some discretionary income; establishing a To pursue this, in 2015 Kmart joined an initiative While Fairtrade-certified and ECA-accredited robust estimate will involve multi-stakeholder called ‘Action, Collaboration, Transformation’ companies performed best on the payment consultation. (ACT), featured on page 43 of this report. of living wages, we found that a mix of We believe adopting the Anker methodology for Kmart is a fine example of how committing to budget, mid-range and high-end companies these calculations represents current industry a strategy on living wages is not the exclusive were paying at least some portion of their best practice. However, as there isn’t currently ‘an ambition of companies using Fairtrade or luxury supply chain fairer wages. American Apparel, Anker figure’ for all regions involved in garment brands charging a premium on their products — APG & Co, Ben Sherman, Big W, Coles, manufacturing, we also support companies that it’s also a realistic aim for high volume, low cost Cotton On Group, Country Road Group, David have developed their own methods for calculating operators. We commend Kmart’s efforts in starting Jones, Ezibuy, Factory X, Forever New, Fruit a living wage. to develop a strategy in relation to living wage and of the Loom, Glassons, Gorman. H&M, Inditex, look forward to seeing its progress. Industries, Jeanswest, Just Group, Karen Walker, Kmart Australia benchmarking Kathmandu, Kmart Australia, Kookai, Macpac, in Bangladesh Other companies making progress Pacific Brands, Patagonia, Puma, RREPP, Simon To better understand the challenges and on living wage de Winter, Specialty Fashion Group, Sussan opportunities associated with achieving a While only Mighty Good Undies was awarded full Group, Target Australia, Tree of Life, VF Corporation living wage for factory workers, in 2015 Kmart credit for paying all their final stage production and Zimmermann all deserve a mention here. commissioned an independent study by PwC workers a living wage, 44 companies in total The number and diversity of companies making of three suppliers in Bangladesh. received some credit at this stage of production. efforts in this area shows that committing to at The study involved benchmark assessment of the Of these, ten were able to show that they paid least a strategy on living wages is not the exclusive wages paid by suppliers against the minimum a majority of their workers a living wage. We ambition of companies using Fairtrade or luxury wage and a number of living wage benchmarks, would like to applaud the following brands for brands charging a premium on their products — as well as interviews with suppliers to understand this achievement: Mighty Good Undies (Fairtrade- it’s also a realistic aim for high volume, low-cost their perspectives. certified), Anthea Crawford (ECA-accredited), operators.
46 Brand Index This section lists grades for the 330 brands assessed in this report. While our grades most often apply to single 9companies, many companies hold multiple brands.
47 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY COMPANY A–F * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie & Fitch* D+ Big W Avella C+ Cotton On Group factorie A–
Abercrombie & Fitch* abercrombie kids* D+ Big W Dymples C+ Cotton On Group Rubi A–
Abercrombie & Fitch* Hollister* D+ Big W Emerson C+ Cotton On Group Supré A–
adidas Group adidas A– Big W Guy Leech C+ Country Road Group Country Road B+
adidas Group Reebok A– Big W Lee Cooper C+ Country Road Group Mimco B+
adidas Group TaylorMade A– Big W Michelle Bridges C+ Country Road Group Trenery B+
Aldi Aldi C+ Big W Peter Morrissey C+ Country Road Group Witchery B+
Ally Fashion* Ally* F Billabong Billabong C+ Cue Clothing Co Cue B–
American Apparel American Apparel B Billabong Element C+ Cue Clothing Co Veronika Maine B–
Anthea Crawford* Anthea Crawford* C+ Billabong Honolua Surf Co. C+ David Jones Agenda B+
APG & Co JAG A– Billabong Kustom C+ David Jones Alta Linea B+
APG & Co SABA A– Billabong RVCA C+ David Jones David Jones B+
APG & Co Sportscraft A– Billabong Tigerlily C+ David Jones Milana B+
Arcadia Group Burton Menswear C+ Billabong Xcel C+ David Jones St James B+
Arcadia Group Dorothy Perkins C+ Bloch* Bloch* F David Jones The Foundry B+
Arcadia Group Evans C+ Blue Illusion Blue Illusion C– Decjuba* Decjuba* F
Arcadia Group Miss Selfridge C+ Boden Boden B– Designworks Sista B–
Arcadia Group Topman C+ Brand Collective Elka Collective C Designworks Mooks B–
Arcadia Group Topshop C+ Brand Collective Elwood C Designworks Republic B–
Arcadia Group Wallis C+ Brand Collective Mossimo C Designworks Dunlop B–
AS Colour AS Colour B– Clarks Clarks C+ Designworks Everlast B–
ASOS ASOS B– Coles Coles C+ Designworks Slazenger B–
Bardot Bardot C– Coles Mix Apparel C+ Esprit Esprit B+
Bardot Bardot Junior C– Corporate Apparel Group* Ron Bennett* F Etiko Etiko A+
Ben Sherman Australia Ben Sherman C– Corporate Apparel Group* SEW253* F EziBuy Capture C+
Best & Less Best & Less C Corporate Apparel Group* Get Formal* F EziBuy Emerge C+
Betts* Betts* F Cotton On Group Cotton On A– EziBuy Urban C+
Betts* Betts Kids* F Cotton On Group Cotton On Body A– EziBuy EziBuy C+
Betts* Airflex* F Cotton On Group Cotton On Kids A– EziBuy Grace Hill C+
48 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY COMPANY F–M * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
EziBuy Sara C+ General Pants General Pants Co Basics C Inditex Bershka A
Factory X Dangerfield C General Pants General Pants C Inditex Massimo Dutti A
Factory X L’urv C Glassons Glassons B– Inditex Oysho A
Factory X Princess Highway C Gorman Gorman C+ Inditex Pull&Bear A
Factory X Jack London C Grosby Grosby C Inditex Stradivarius A
Factory X Alannah Hill C Grosby Volley C Inditex Uterqüe A
Factory X Revival C H&M & Other Stories B+ Inditex Zara A
Farmers* Farmers* F H&M Cheap Monday B+ Inditex Zara Home A
Fast Future Brands MIRROU D+ H&M COS B+ Industrie ABCD Indie B+
Fast Future Brands TEMT D+ H&M H&M B+ Industrie Indie B+
Fast Future Brands Valleygirl D+ H&M Monki B+ Industrie Indie & Co B+
Forever 21 Forever 21 D+ H&M Weekday B+ Industrie Industrie B+
Forever New Forever New B Hanesbrands Inc. Bali B+ Jeanswest Jeanswest B+
Freeset Freeset A– Hanesbrands Inc. Barely There B+ Jets Jets B
Fruit of the Loom Fruit of the Loom B– Hanesbrands Inc. C9 by Champion B+ Julius Marlow Julius Marlow C+
Fruit of the Loom Russell Brands B– Hanesbrands Inc. Champion B+ Just Group Dotti C+
Fruit of the Loom Spalding B– Hanesbrands Inc. DIM B+ Just Group Jacqui E C+
Fruit of the Loom Vanity Fair B– Hanesbrands Inc. Gear for Sports B+ Just Group Jay Jays C+
Fusion Retail Brands Colorado C– Hanesbrands Inc. Hanes B+ Just Group Just Jeans C+
Fusion Retail Brands Diana Ferrari C– Hanesbrands Inc. Knights Apparel B+ Just Group Peter Alexander C+
Fusion Retail Brands Mathers C– Hanesbrands Inc. Maidenform B+ Just Group Portmans C+
Fusion Retail Brands Williams C– Hanesbrands Inc. Playtex B+ Karen Walker Karen Walker B+
Gap Inc. Athleta B– Hanesbrands Inc. Wonderbra B+ Kathmandu Kathmandu B+
Gap Inc. Banana Republic B– House of Quirky Evil Twin C– Kmart Kmart B
Gap Inc. Gap B– House of Quirky MINKPINK C– Kookai Kookai B–
Gap Inc. INTERMIX B– House of Quirky Somedays Lovin’ C– Kowtow Kowtow A
Gap Inc. Old Navy B– House of Quirky Staple the Label C– L Brands* Henri Bendel* D+
Gazal* Bisley* D– Hush Puppies Hush Puppies C+ L Brands* La Senza* D+
Gazal* Gazal* D– Icebreaker* Icebreaker* D– L Brands* Pink* D+
49 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY COMPANY M–T * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
L Brands* Victoria’s Secret* D+ Noni B Group Rockmans C Pavement United Brands* Gum* D–
Lacoste Lacoste C+ Noni B Group W. Lane C Pavement United Brands* Lemonade* D–
Levi Strauss & Co. Dockers B+ Noni B Group beme C Pavement United Brands* Pavement* D–
Levi Strauss & Co. Levi’s B+ Noni B Group Table Eight C Pavement United Brands* Pom Pom* D–
Liminal Apparel Liminal Apparel A Noni B Group Liz Jordan C Pavement United Brands* Scram* D–
Lorna Jane Lorna Jane C+ Nudie Jeans Nudie Jeans A– Pavement United Brands* Wax Bros* D–
Lowes Beare & Ley D+ Oroton Group Oroton B– Pavement United Brands* Zom–B* D–
Lowes Lowes D+ Oxford* Oxford* F Puma Cobra Golf B–
Lululemon Athletica Lululemon B+ Pacific Brands Actil A– Puma Puma B–
Macpac Macpac B– Pacific Brands Berlei A– PVH Corp ARROW C+
Max Max C Pacific Brands Bonds A– PVH Corp Calvin Klein C+
Mighty Good Undies Audrey Blue A+ Pacific Brands Crestell A– PVH Corp IZOD C+
Mighty Good Undies Mighty Good Undies A+ Pacific Brands Dunlopillo A– PVH Corp Olga C+
Myer Basque C+ Pacific Brands Explorer A– PVH Corp Speedo C+
Myer Blaq C+ Pacific Brands Fairydown A– PVH Corp Tommy Hilfiger C+
Myer Milkshake C+ Pacific Brands Hestia A– PVH Corp Van Heusen C+
Myer Miss Shop C+ Pacific Brands Holeproof A– PVH Corp Warner’s C+
Myer Piper C+ Pacific Brands Jockey A– Quiksilver DC C
Myer Regatta C+ Pacific Brands Platinum A– Quiksilver Quiksilver C
Myer Reserve C+ Pacific Brands Razzamatazz A– Quiksilver Roxy C
Myer Sass & Bide C+ Pacific Brands Red Robin A– R.M. Williams R.M. Williams B+
Myer Sprout C+ Pacific Brands Rio A– Retail Apparel Group Connor C+
New Balance New Balance B– Pacific Brands Sheer Relief A– Retail Apparel Group Johnny Bigg C+
Next Next C+ Pacific Brands Sheridan A– Retail Apparel Group Rockwear C+
Next Lipsy C+ Pacific Brands Tontine A– Retail Apparel Group Tarocash C+
Nike* Converse* C+ Pacific Brands Voodoo A– Retail Apparel Group yd. C+
Nike* Hurley* C+ Patagonia Patagonia A Rip Curl Rip Curl C+
Nike* Nike* C+ Pavement United Brands* Asphalt* D– Roger David* Roger David* F
Noni B Group Noni B C Pavement United Brands* Coco Beach* D– RREPP RREPP A+
50 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY COMPANY T–Z * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
Seafolly Seafolly B– The PAS Group Breakaway C+ VF Corporation Splendid B–
Seed Heritage Seed Heritage C– The PAS Group Black Pepper C+ VF Corporation The North Face B–
Simon de Winter Darn Tough C+ The PAS Group Equus C+ VF Corporation Timberland B–
Simon de Winter Fine Lines C+ The PAS Group Review C+ VF Corporation Vans B–
Simon de Winter Kayser C+ The PAS Group Yvonne Black C+ VF Corporation Wrangler B–
Simon de Winter Simon de Winter C+ The PAS Group Extra Pepper C+ Voyager Distributing Co* Jump* F
Specialty Fashion Group Autograph B The Warehouse* The Warehouse* C Voyager Distributing Co* Kachel* F
Specialty Fashion Group City Chic B Tree of Life Tree of Life C+ Voyager Distributing Co* Ping Pong* F
Specialty Fashion Group Crossroads B UNIQLO UNIQLO B Webster Holdings David Lawrence C–
Specialty Fashion Group Katies B VF Corporation 7 For All Mankind B– Webster Holdings Marcs C–
Specialty Fashion Group Millers B VF Corporation Bulwark B– Wish* Wish* F
Specialty Fashion Group Rivers B VF Corporation Eagle Creek B– Zimmermann Zimmermann C+
Sussan Group Sportsgirl B VF Corporation Eastpak B–
Sussan Group Sussan B VF Corporation Ella Moss B–
Sussan Group Suzanne Grae B VF Corporation Horace Small B–
Target Australia Target B– VF Corporation Jansport B–
Target Australia Wonder Comfort B– VF Corporation Kipling B–
Target Australia Lily Loves B– VF Corporation LEE B–
Target Australia Superflex DNM B– VF Corporation Lucy B–
Target Australia Active B– VF Corporation Majestic B–
Target Australia Tutu’s & Tambourines B– VF Corporation Napapijri B–
Target Australia Jacob & Co B– VF Corporation Nautica B–
Target Australia Future You B– VF Corporation Red Kap B–
Target Australia Belle Curve B– VF Corporation Reef B–
Target Australia Mr Big B– VF Corporation Riders by LEE B–
Target Australia MAXX B– VF Corporation Rock & Republic B–
Target Australia Dannii Minogue B– VF Corporation Rustler B–
The PAS Group Yarra Trail C+ VF Corporation Smartwool B–
The PAS Group Marco Polo C+
51 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY BRAND A–E * = non-responsive companies
Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade
& Other Stories H&M B+ Basque Myer C+ Coco Beach* Pavement United Brands* D–
7 For All Mankind VF Corporation B– Beare & Ley Lowes D+ Coles Coles C+
ABCD Indie Industrie B+ Belle Curve Target Australia B– Colorado Fusion Retail Brands C–
Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie & Fitch* D+ beme Noni B Group C Connor Retail Apparel Group C+
abercrombie kids* Abercrombie & Fitch* D+ Ben Sherman Ben Sherman Australia C– Converse* Nike* C+
Actil Pacific Brands A– Berlei Pacific Brands A– COS H&M B+
Active Target Australia B– Bershka Inditex A Cotton On Cotton On Group A–
adidas adidas Group A– Best & Less Best & Less C Cotton On Body Cotton On Group A–
Agenda David Jones B+ Betts Kids* Betts* F Cotton On Kids Cotton On Group A–
Airflex* Betts* F Betts* Betts* F Country Road Country Road Group B+
Alannah Hill Factory X C Billabong Billabong C+ Crestell Pacific Brands A–
Aldi Aldi C+ Bisley* Gazal* D– Crossroads Specialty Fashion Group B
Ally* Ally Fashion* F Black Pepper The PAS Group C+ Cue Cue Clothing Co B–
Alta Linea David Jones B+ Blaq Myer C+ Dangerfield Factory X C
American Apparel American Apparel B Bloch* Bloch* F Dannii Minogue Target Australia B–
Anthea Crawford* Anthea Crawford* C+ Blue Illusion Blue Illusion C– Darn Tough Simon de Winter C+
ARROW PVH Corp C+ Boden Boden B– David Jones David Jones B+
AS Colour AS Colour B– Bonds Pacific Brands A– David Lawrence Webster Holdings C–
ASOS ASOS B– Breakaway The PAS Group C+ DC Quiksilver C
Asphalt* Pavement United Brands* D– Bulwark VF Corporation B– Decjuba* Decjuba* F
Athleta Gap Inc. B– Burton Menswear Arcadia Group C+ Diana Ferrari Fusion Retail Brands C–
Audrey Blue Mighty Good Undies A+ C9 by Champion Hanesbrands Inc. B+ DIM Hanesbrands Inc. B+
Autograph Specialty Fashion Group B Calvin Klein PVH Corp C+ Dockers Levi Strauss & Co. B+
Avella Big W C+ Capture EziBuy C+ Dorothy Perkins Arcadia Group C+
Bali Hanesbrands Inc. B+ Champion Hanesbrands Inc. B+ Dotti Just Group C+
Banana Republic Gap Inc. B– Cheap Monday H&M B+ Dunlop Designworks B–
Bardot Bardot C– City Chic Specialty Fashion Group B Dunlopillo Pacific Brands A–
Bardot Junior Bardot C– Clarks Clarks C+ Dymples Big W C+
Barely There Hanesbrands Inc. B+ Cobra Golf Puma B– Eagle Creek VF Corporation B–
52 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY BRAND E–M * = non-responsive companies
Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade
Eastpak VF Corporation B– General Pants General Pants C JAG APG & Co A–
Element Billabong C+ General Pants Co Basics General Pants C Jansport VF Corporation B–
Elka Collective Brand Collective C Get Formal* Corporate Apparel Group* F Jay Jays Just Group C+
Ella Moss VF Corporation B– Glassons Glassons B– Jeanswest Jeanswest B+
Elwood Brand Collective C Gorman Gorman C+ Jets Jets B
Emerge EziBuy C+ Grace Hill EziBuy C+ Jockey Pacific Brands A–
Emerson Big W C+ Grosby Grosby C Johnny Bigg Retail Apparel Group C+
Equus The PAS Group C+ Gum* Pavement United Brands* D– Julius Marlow Julius Marlow C+
Esprit Esprit B+ Guy Leech Big W C+ Jump* Voyager Distributing Co* F
Etiko Etiko A+ H&M H&M B+ Just Jeans Just Group C+
Evans Arcadia Group C+ Hanes Hanesbrands Inc. B+ Kachel* Voyager Distributing Co* F
Everlast Designworks B– Henri Bendel* L Brands* D+ Karen Walker Karen Walker B+
Evil Twin House of Quirky C– Hestia Pacific Brands A– Kathmandu Kathmandu B+
Explorer Pacific Brands A– Holeproof Pacific Brands A– Katies Specialty Fashion Group B
Extra Pepper The PAS Group C+ Hollister* Abercrombie & Fitch* D+ Kayser Simon de Winter C+
EziBuy EziBuy C+ Honolua Surf Co. Billabong C+ Kipling VF Corporation B–
factorie Cotton On Group A– Horace Small VF Corporation B– Kmart Kmart B
Fairydown Pacific Brands A– Hurley* Nike* C+ Knights Apparel Hanesbrands Inc. B+
Farmers* Farmers* F Hush Puppies Hush Puppies C+ Kookai Kookai B–
Fine Lines Simon de Winter C+ Icebreaker* Icebreaker* D– Kowtow Kowtow A
Forever 21 Forever 21 D+ Indie Industrie B+ Kustom Billabong C+
Forever New Forever New B Indie & Co Industrie B+ La Senza* L Brands* D+
Freeset Freeset A– Industrie Industrie B+ Lacoste Lacoste C+
Fruit of the Loom Fruit of the Loom B– INTERMIX Gap Inc. B– LEE VF Corporation B–
Future You Target Australia B– IZOD PVH Corp C+ Lee Cooper Big W C+
Gap Gap Inc. B– Jack London Factory X C Lemonade* Pavement United Brands* D–
Gazal* Gazal* D– Jacob & Co Target Australia B– Levi’s Levi Strauss & Co. B+
Gear for Sports Hanesbrands Inc. B+ Jacqui E Just Group C+ Lily Loves Target Australia B–
53 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY BRAND M–T * = non-responsive companies
Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade
Liminal Apparel Liminal Apparel A Monki H&M B+ Pull&Bear Inditex A
Lipsy Next C+ Mooks Designworks B– Puma Puma B–
Liz Jordan Noni B Group C Mossimo Brand Collective C Quiksilver Quiksilver C
Lorna Jane Lorna Jane C+ Mr Big Target Australia B– R.M. Williams R.M. Williams B+
Lowes Lowes D+ Napapijri VF Corporation B– Razzamatazz Pacific Brands A–
Lucy VF Corporation B– Nautica VF Corporation B– Red Kap VF Corporation B–
Lululemon Lululemon Athletica B+ New Balance New Balance B– Red Robin Pacific Brands A–
L’urv Factory X C Next Next C+ Reebok adidas Group A–
Macpac Macpac B– Nike* Nike* C+ Reef VF Corporation B–
Maidenform Hanesbrands Inc. B+ Noni B Noni B Group C Regatta Myer C+
Majestic VF Corporation B– Nudie Jeans Nudie Jeans A– Republic Designworks B–
Marco Polo The PAS Group C+ Old Navy Gap Inc. B– Reserve Myer C+
Marcs Webster Holdings C– Olga PVH Corp C+ Review The PAS Group C+
Massimo Dutti Inditex A Oroton Oroton Group B– Revival Factory X C
Mathers Fusion Retail Brands C– Oxford* Oxford* F Riders by LEE VF Corporation B–
Max Max C Oysho Inditex A Rio Pacific Brands A–
MAXX Target Australia B– Patagonia Patagonia A Rip Curl Rip Curl C+
Michelle Bridges Big W C+ Pavement* Pavement United Brands* D– Rivers Specialty Fashion Group B
Mighty Good Undies Mighty Good Undies A+ Peter Alexander Just Group C+ Rock & Republic VF Corporation B–
Milana David Jones B+ Peter Morrissey Big W C+ Rockmans Noni B Group C
Milkshake Myer C+ Ping Pong* Voyager Distributing Co* F Rockwear Retail Apparel Group C+
Millers Specialty Fashion Group B Pink* L Brands* D+ Roger David* Roger David* F
Mimco Country Road Group B+ Piper Myer C+ Ron Bennett* Corporate Apparel Group* F
MINKPINK House of Quirky C– Platinum Pacific Brands A– Roxy Quiksilver C
MIRROU Fast Future Brands D+ Playtex Hanesbrands Inc. B+ RREPP RREPP A+
Miss Selfridge Arcadia Group C+ Pom Pom* Pavement United Brands* D– Rubi Cotton On Group A–
Miss Shop Myer C+ Portmans Just Group C+ Russell Brands Fruit of the Loom B–
Mix Apparel Coles C+ Princess Highway Factory X C Rustler VF Corporation B–
54 BRAND INDEX GRADE BY BRAND T–Z * = non-responsive companies
Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade Brand Parent Company Grade
RVCA Billabong C+ Target Target Australia B– Warner’s PVH Corp C+
SABA APG & Co A– Tarocash Retail Apparel Group C+ Wax Bros* Pavement United Brands* D–
Sara EziBuy C+ TaylorMade adidas Group A– Weekday H&M B+
Sass & Bide Myer C+ TEMT Fast Future Brands D+ Williams Fusion Retail Brands C–
Scram* Pavement United Brands* D– The Foundry David Jones B+ Wish* Wish* F
Seafolly Seafolly B– The North Face VF Corporation B– Witchery Country Road Group B+
Seed Heritage Seed Heritage C– The Warehouse* The Warehouse* C Wonder Comfort Target Australia B–
SEW253* Corporate Apparel Group* F Tigerlily Billabong C+ Wonderbra Hanesbrands Inc. B+
Sheer Relief Pacific Brands A– Timberland VF Corporation B– Wrangler VF Corporation B–
Sheridan Pacific Brands A– Tommy Hilfiger PVH Corp C+ Xcel Billabong C+
Simon de Winter Simon de Winter C+ Tontine Pacific Brands A– Yarra Trail The PAS Group C+
Sista Designworks B– Topman Arcadia Group C+ yd. Retail Apparel Group C+
Slazenger Designworks B– Topshop Arcadia Group C+ Yvonne Black The PAS Group C+
Smartwool VF Corporation B– Tree of Life Tree of Life C+ Zara Inditex A
Somedays Lovin’ House of Quirky C– Trenery Country Road Group B+ Zara Home Inditex A
Spalding Fruit of the Loom B– Tutu’s & Tambourines Target Australia B– Zimmermann Zimmermann C+
Speedo PVH Corp C+ UNIQLO UNIQLO B Zom–B* Pavement United Brands* D–
Splendid VF Corporation B– Urban EziBuy C+
Sportscraft APG & Co A– Uterqüe Inditex A
Sportsgirl Sussan Group B Valleygirl Fast Future Brands D+
Sprout Myer C+ Van Heusen PVH Corp C+
St James David Jones B+ Vanity Fair Fruit of the Loom B–
Staple the Label House of Quirky C– Vans VF Corporation B–
Stradivarius Inditex A Veronika Maine Cue Clothing Co B–
Superflex DNM Target Australia B– Victoria’s Secret* L Brands* D+
Supré Cotton On Group A– Volley Grosby C
Sussan Sussan Group B Voodoo Pacific Brands A–
Suzanne Grae Sussan Group B W. Lane Noni B Group C
Table Eight Noni B Group C Wallis Arcadia Group C+
55 BRAND INDEX BRANDS RANKED HIGHEST TO LOWEST * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
Mighty Good Undies Audrey Blue A+ Pacific Brands Holeproof A– David Jones David Jones B+
Etiko Etiko A+ APG & Co JAG A– Hanesbrands Inc. DIM B+
Mighty Good Undies Mighty Good Undies A+ Pacific Brands Jockey A– Levi Strauss & Co. Dockers B+
RREPP RREPP A+ Nudie Jeans Nudie Jeans A– Esprit Esprit B+
Inditex Bershka A Pacific Brands Platinum A– Hanesbrands Inc. Gear for Sports B+
Kowtow Kowtow A Pacific Brands Razzamatazz A– H&M H&M B+
Liminal Apparel Liminal Apparel A Pacific Brands Red Robin A– Hanesbrands Inc. Hanes B+
Inditex Massimo Dutti A adidas Group Reebok A– Industrie Indie B+
Inditex Oysho A Pacific Brands Rio A– Industrie Indie & Co B+
Patagonia Patagonia A Cotton On Group Rubi A– Industrie Industrie B+
Inditex Pull&Bear A APG & Co SABA A– Jeanswest Jeanswest B+
Inditex Stradivarius A Pacific Brands Sheer Relief A– Karen Walker Karen Walker B+
Inditex Uterqüe A Pacific Brands Sheridan A– Kathmandu Kathmandu B+
Inditex Zara A APG & Co Sportscraft A– Hanesbrands Inc. Knights Apparel B+
Inditex Zara Home A Cotton On Group Supré A– Levi Strauss & Co. Levi’s B+
Pacific Brands Actil A– adidas Group TaylorMade A– Lululemon Athletica Lululemon B+
adidas Group adidas A– Pacific Brands Tontine A– Hanesbrands Inc. Maidenform B+
Pacific Brands Berlei A– Pacific Brands Voodoo A– David Jones Milana B+
Pacific Brands Bonds A– H&M & Other Stories B+ Country Road Group Mimco B+
Cotton On Group Cotton On A– Industrie ABCD Indie B+ H&M Monki B+
Cotton On Group Cotton On Body A– David Jones Agenda B+ Hanesbrands Inc. Playtex B+
Cotton On Group Cotton On Kids A– David Jones Alta Linea B+ R.M. Williams R.M. Williams B+
Pacific Brands Crestell A– Hanesbrands Inc. Bali B+ David Jones St James B+
Pacific Brands Dunlopillo A– Hanesbrands Inc. Barely There B+ David Jones The Foundry B+
Pacific Brands Explorer A– Hanesbrands Inc. C9 by Champion B+ Country Road Group Trenery B+
Cotton On Group factorie A– Hanesbrands Inc. Champion B+ H&M Weekday B+
Pacific Brands Fairydown A– H&M Cheap Monday B+ Country Road Group Witchery B+
Freeset Freeset A– H&M COS B+ Hanesbrands Inc. Wonderbra B+
Pacific Brands Hestia A– Country Road Group Country Road B+ American Apparel American Apparel B
56 BRAND INDEX BRANDS RANKED HIGHEST TO LOWEST * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
Specialty Fashion Group Autograph B Designworks Everlast B– VF Corporation Rock & Republic B–
Specialty Fashion Group City Chic B Fruit of the Loom Fruit of the Loom B– Fruit of the Loom Russell Brands B–
Specialty Fashion Group Crossroads B Target Australia Future You B– VF Corporation Rustler B–
Forever New Forever New B Gap Inc. Gap B– Seafolly Seafolly B–
Jets Jets B Glassons Glassons B– Designworks Sista B–
Specialty Fashion Group Katies B VF Corporation Horace Small B– Designworks Slazenger B–
Kmart Kmart B Gap Inc. INTERMIX B– VF Corporation Smartwool B–
Specialty Fashion Group Millers B Target Australia Jacob & Co B– Fruit of the Loom Spalding B–
Specialty Fashion Group Rivers B VF Corporation Jansport B– VF Corporation Splendid B–
Sussan Group Sportsgirl B VF Corporation Kipling B– Target Australia Superflex DNM B–
Sussan Group Sussan B Kookai Kookai B– Target Australia Target B–
Sussan Group Suzanne Grae B VF Corporation LEE B– VF Corporation The North Face B–
UNIQLO UNIQLO B Target Australia Lily Loves B– VF Corporation Timberland B–
VF Corporation 7 For All Mankind B– VF Corporation Lucy B– Target Australia Tutu’s & Tambourines B–
Target Australia Active B– Macpac Macpac B– Fruit of the Loom Vanity Fair B–
AS Colour AS Colour B– VF Corporation Majestic B– VF Corporation Vans B–
ASOS ASOS B– Target Australia MAXX B– Cue Clothing Co Veronika Maine B–
Gap Inc. Athleta B– Designworks Mooks B– Target Australia Wonder Comfort B–
Gap Inc. Banana Republic B– Target Australia Mr Big B– VF Corporation Wrangler B–
Target Australia Belle Curve B– VF Corporation Napapijri B– Aldi Aldi C+
Boden Boden B– VF Corporation Nautica B– Anthea Crawford* Anthea Crawford* C+
VF Corporation Bulwark B– New Balance New Balance B– PVH Corp ARROW C+
Puma Cobra Golf B– Gap Inc. Old Navy B– Big W Avella C+
Cue Clothing Co Cue B– Oroton Group Oroton B– Myer Basque C+
Target Australia Dannii Minogue B– Puma Puma B– Billabong Billabong C+
Designworks Dunlop B– VF Corporation Red Kap B– The PAS Group Black Pepper C+
VF Corporation Eagle Creek B– VF Corporation Reef B– Myer Blaq C+
VF Corporation Eastpak B– Designworks Republic B– The PAS Group Breakaway C+
VF Corporation Ella Moss B– VF Corporation Riders by LEE B– Arcadia Group Burton Menswear C+
57 BRAND INDEX BRANDS RANKED HIGHEST TO LOWEST * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
PVH Corp Calvin Klein C+ Just Group Just Jeans C+ PVH Corp Speedo C+
EziBuy Capture C+ Simon de Winter Kayser C+ Myer Sprout C+
Clarks Clarks C+ Billabong Kustom C+ Retail Apparel Group Tarocash C+
Coles Coles C+ Lacoste Lacoste C+ Billabong Tigerlily C+
Retail Apparel Group Connor C+ Big W Lee Cooper C+ PVH Corp Tommy Hilfiger C+
Nike* Converse* C+ Next Lipsy C+ Arcadia Group Topman C+
Simon de Winter Darn Tough C+ Lorna Jane Lorna Jane C+ Arcadia Group Topshop C+
Arcadia Group Dorothy Perkins C+ The PAS Group Marco Polo C+ Tree of Life Tree of Life C+
Just Group Dotti C+ Big W Michelle Bridges C+ EziBuy Urban C+
Big W Dymples C+ Myer Milkshake C+ PVH Corp Van Heusen C+
Billabong Element C+ Arcadia Group Miss Selfridge C+ Arcadia Group Wallis C+
EziBuy Emerge C+ Myer Miss Shop C+ PVH Corp Warner’s C+
Big W Emerson C+ Coles Mix Apparel C+ Billabong Xcel C+
The PAS Group Equus C+ Next Next C+ The PAS Group Yarra Trail C+
Arcadia Group Evans C+ Nike* Nike* C+ Retail Apparel Group yd. C+
The PAS Group Extra Pepper C+ PVH Corp Olga C+ The PAS Group Yvonne Black C+
EziBuy EziBuy C+ Just Group Peter Alexander C+ Zimmermann Zimmermann C+
Simon de Winter Fine Lines C+ Big W Peter Morrissey C+ Factory X Alannah Hill C
Gorman Gorman C+ Myer Piper C+ Noni B Group beme C
EziBuy Grace Hill C+ Just Group Portmans C+ Best & Less Best & Less C
Big W Guy Leech C+ Myer Regatta C+ Factory X Dangerfield C
Billabong Honolua Surf Co. C+ Myer Reserve C+ Quiksilver DC C
Nike* Hurley* C+ The PAS Group Review C+ Brand Collective Elka Collective C
Hush Puppies Hush Puppies C+ Rip Curl Rip Curl C+ Brand Collective Elwood C
PVH Corp IZOD C+ Retail Apparel Group Rockwear C+ General Pants General Pants C
Just Group Jacqui E C+ Billabong RVCA C+ General Pants General Pants Co Basics C
Just Group Jay Jays C+ EziBuy Sara C+ Grosby Grosby C
Retail Apparel Group Johnny Bigg C+ Myer Sass & Bide C+ Factory X Jack London C
Julius Marlow Julius Marlow C+ Simon de Winter Simon de Winter C+ Noni B Group Liz Jordan C
58 BRAND INDEX BRANDS RANKED HIGHEST TO LOWEST * = non-responsive companies
Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade Parent Company Brand Grade
Factory X L’urv C Abercrombie & Fitch* abercrombie kids* D+ Decjuba* Decjuba* F
Max Max C Lowes Beare & Ley D+ Farmers* Farmers* F
Brand Collective Mossimo C Forever 21 Forever 21 D+ Corporate Apparel Group* Get Formal* F
Noni B Group Noni B C L Brands* Henri Bendel* D+ Voyager Distributing Co* Jump* F
Factory X Princess Highway C Abercrombie & Fitch* Hollister* D+ Voyager Distributing Co* Kachel* F
Quiksilver Quiksilver C L Brands* La Senza* D+ Oxford* Oxford* F
Factory X Revival C Lowes Lowes D+ Voyager Distributing Co* Ping Pong* F
Noni B Group Rockmans C Fast Future Brands MIRROU D+ Roger David* Roger David* F
Quiksilver Roxy C L Brands* Pink* D+ Corporate Apparel Group* Ron Bennett* F
Noni B Group Table Eight C Fast Future Brands TEMT D+ Corporate Apparel Group* SEW253* F
The Warehouse* The Warehouse* C Fast Future Brands Valleygirl D+ Wish* Wish* F
Grosby Volley C L Brands* Victoria’s Secret* D+
Noni B Group W. Lane C Pavement United Brands* Asphalt* D–
Bardot Bardot C– Gazal* Bisley* D–
Bardot Bardot Junior C– Pavement United Brands* Coco Beach* D–
Ben Sherman Australia Ben Sherman C– Gazal* Gazal* D–
Blue Illusion Blue Illusion C– Pavement United Brands* Gum* D–
Fusion Retail Brands Colorado C– Icebreaker* Icebreaker* D–
Webster Holdings David Lawrence C– Pavement United Brands* Lemonade* D–
Fusion Retail Brands Diana Ferrari C– Pavement United Brands* Pavement* D–
House of Quirky Evil Twin C– Pavement United Brands* Pom Pom* D–
Webster Holdings Marcs C– Pavement United Brands* Scram* D–
Fusion Retail Brands Mathers C– Pavement United Brands* Wax Bros* D–
House of Quirky MINKPINK C– Pavement United Brands* Zom-B* D–
Seed Heritage Seed Heritage C– Betts* Airflex* F
House of Quirky Somedays Lovin’ C– Ally Fashion* Ally* F
House of Quirky Staple the Label C– Betts* Betts Kids* F
Fusion Retail Brands Williams C– Betts* Betts* F
Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie & Fitch* D+ Bloch* Bloch* F
59 Survey Data
This section provides a section-by-section and question-by-question breakdown of company 10responses to the survey used to derive grades.
60 SURVEY DATA POLICIES A–N
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike*
POLICIES GRADE B A+ A F A B+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A– B+ A+ F A+ A+ F D– A+ A+ A+ A+ D A+ A+ A+ A+ F A+ A+ A+ A+ A F A+ B A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ B A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A– A+ D– A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ B– A+ A+ A+ A+ B+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+
CODE OF CONDUCT Q1 Does the brand have a code that addresses the ILO Four Fundamental Principles and Rights at Work? Q2 Does the code prohibit use of regular and excessive overtime? Q3 Are suppliers required to ensure freedom of movement for employees and their right to leave and enter work voluntarily? Q4 Does the code include provisions to protect worker health and safety? Q5 Does the code apply to multiple levels of the supply chain including raw materials? Q6 Is the code included in supplier contracts? POLICIES Q2 Does the brand participate in any multi–stakeholder initiatives? Q3 Has the brand taken steps to use responsible purchasingpractices?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies 61 SURVEY DATA POLICIES N–Z
OVERALL GRADE C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
POLICIES GRADE A+ A+ A+ F A+ A+ F A+ A+ A A A+ A+ F A+ A+ A A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A A+ A+ A+ F B– F A+
CODE OF CONDUCT Q1 Does the brand have a code that addresses the ILO Four Fundamental Principles and Rights at Work? Q2 Does the code prohibit use of regular and excessive overtime? Q3 Are suppliers required to ensure freedom of movement for employees and their right to leave and enter work voluntarily? Q4 Does the code include provisions to protect worker health and safety? Q5 Does the code apply to multiple levels of the supply chain including raw materials? Q6 Is the code included in supplier contracts? POLICIES Q2 Does the brand participate in any multi–stakeholder initiatives? Q3 Has the brand taken steps to use responsible purchasingpractices?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies 62 SURVEY DATA KNOWING YOUR SUPPLIERS A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes
KNOWING YOUR SUPPLIERS GRADE D+ A+ B+ F A C– A+ B– B+ B C C+ C+ F B+ C+ F C+ B B B+ B F A+ A C+ B+ F B+ A+ A+ C+ C F D+ C A– A+ B+ C– B+ F C+ C+ C+ B+ A+ B+ C+ A– D A A– A+ B+ A– B+ B+ B+ B+ B+ A– D+ B– A+ A+ C+ C–
Final Stage Production Q1 Has the brand traced all of its final stage factories? (partial= some directly traced) Q2 Is there a public list of countries in which suppliers are located? Q3 Is there a public list of suppliers?
Q4 Does the brand ensure that there is either no subcontracting or that all subcontracted production adheres to code standards? Q5 Does the brand track suppliers’ use of temporary or contract workers? Inputs Production Q1 Has the brand traced all or almost all of its inputs suppliers? (partial= some directly traced) Q2 If not fully traced, is brand involved in a tracing project to locate unknown suppliers? Q3 Is there a public list of countries in which suppliers are located? Q4 Is there a public list of suppliers?
Raw Materials Q1 Has the brand traced all or almost all of its suppliers at one raw materials level? (partial= some directly traced) Q2 If not fully traced, is the brand involved in a tracing project to locate unknown suppliers? Q3 Is there a public list of countries in which suppliers are located? Q4 Is there a public list of suppliers?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies 63 SURVEY DATA KNOWING YOUR SUPPLIERS M–Z
OVERALL GRADE B+ B– C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Lululemon Athletica Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
KNOWING YOUR SUPPLIERS GRADE A B+ C+ A+ C+ B B– B C+ A+ B+ F A+ A+ D+ B C+ C C+ B– A F A+ B– C– B A– B B+ B+ C C+ A– B F C+ F C+
Final Stage Production Q1 Has the brand traced all of its final stage factories? (partial= some directly traced) Q2 Is there a public list of countries in which suppliers are located? Q3 Is there a public list of suppliers?
Q4 Does the brand ensure that there is either no subcontracting or that all subcontracted production adheres to code standards? Q5 Does the brand track suppliers’ use of temporary or contract workers? Inputs Production Q1 Has the brand traced all or almost all of its inputs suppliers? (partial= some directly traced) Q2 If not fully traced, is brand involved in a tracing project to locate unknown suppliers? Q3 Is there a public list of countries in which suppliers are located? Q4 Is there a public list of suppliers?
Raw Materials Q1 Has the brand traced all or almost all of its suppliers at one raw materials level? (partial= some directly traced) Q2 If not fully traced, is the brand involved in a tracing project to locate unknown suppliers? Q3 Is there a public list of countries in which suppliers are located? Q4 Is there a public list of suppliers?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies 64 SURVEY DATA AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS Final Stage Production: A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac
AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP GRADE D+ A– C F B– C– B+ C– C+ C+ C– D+ C F D+ C F B– C+ D+ D+ C+ F B+ B+ C+ B– F B– B A C C F D D+ C+ B+ C+ D C+ F C C+ C D B+ B+ C– D+ F A+ B– B C+ D+ C+ A– B+ B– C+ A– D+ C+ B+ B+ C C– B+ C+
Final Stage Production Q1 Does the brand audit 100% of its traced facilities over a two–year period? (partial= some monitored) Q2 Does the brand audit at least 75% of its traced facilities with unannounced visits or offsite worker interviews? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand share audit reports and corrective action plans publicly? Q4 Does the brand share broad auditing results publicly? Q5 Does the brand have a safety incident reporting and investigation procedure? Q6 Does the brand invest in training suppliers, buyers and factory managers to understand human trafficking, child labour, and forced labour risks? Q7 Does the brand actively improve leverage and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
65 SURVEY DATA AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS Final Stage Production: A–M
OVERALL GRADE C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP GRADE D+ B+ C+ C+ C+ C C– B+ C+ F B+ A– F C+ C– C C C C+ F B+ B D+ C+ B B+ C+ D+ C– C– B+ B F D+ F C
Final Stage Production Q1 Does the brand audit 100% of its traced facilities over a two–year period? (partial= some monitored) Q2 Does the brand audit at least 75% of its traced facilities with unannounced visits or offsite worker interviews? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand share audit reports and corrective action plans publicly? Q4 Does the brand share broad auditing results publicly? Q5 Does the brand have a safety incident reporting and investigation procedure? Q6 Does the brand invest in training suppliers, buyers and factory managers to understand human trafficking, child labour, and forced labour risks? Q7 Does the brand actively improve leverage and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
66 SURVEY DATA AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS Inputs Production: A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac
AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP GRADE D+ A– C F B– C– B+ C– C+ C+ C– D+ C F D+ C F B– C+ D+ D+ C+ F B+ B+ C+ B– F B– B A C C F D D+ C+ B+ C+ D C+ F C C+ C D B+ B+ C– D+ F A+ B– B C+ D+ C+ A– B+ B– C+ A– D+ C+ B+ B+ C C– B+ C+
Inputs Production Q1 Does the brand audit 100% of its traced facilities over a two–year period? (partial= some monitored) Q2 Does the brand audit at least 75% of its traced facilities with unannounced visits or offsite worker interviews? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand share audit reports and corrective action plans publicly? Q4 Does the brand share broad auditing results publicly? Q5 Does the brand have a safety incident reporting and investigation procedure? Q6 Does the brand invest in training suppliers, buyers and factory managers to understand human trafficking, child labour, and forced labour risks? Q7 Does the brand actively improve leverage and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
67 SURVEY DATA AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS Inputs Production: M–Z
OVERALL GRADE C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP GRADE D+ B+ C+ C+ C+ C C– B+ C+ F B+ A– F C+ C– C C C C+ F B+ B D+ C+ B B+ C+ D+ C– C– B+ B F D+ F C
Inputs Production Q1 Does the brand audit 100% of its traced facilities over a two–year period? (partial= some monitored) Q2 Does the brand audit at least 75% of its traced facilities with unannounced visits or offsite worker interviews? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand share audit reports and corrective action plans publicly? Q4 Does the brand share broad auditing results publicly? Q5 Does the brand have a safety incident reporting and investigation procedure? Q6 Does the brand invest in training suppliers, buyers and factory managers to understand human trafficking, child labour, and forced labour risks? Q7 Does the brand actively improve leverage and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
68 SURVEY DATA AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS Raw Materials: A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac
AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP GRADE D+ A– C F B– C– B+ C– C+ C+ C– D+ C F D+ C F B– C+ D+ D+ C+ F B+ B+ C+ B– F B– B A C C F D D+ C+ B+ C+ D C+ F C C+ C D B+ B+ C– D+ F A+ B– B C+ D+ C+ A– B+ B– C+ A– D+ C+ B+ B+ C C– B+ C+
Raw Materials Q1 Does the brand audit 100% of its traced facilities over a two–year period? (partial= some monitored) Q2 Does the brand audit at least 75% of its traced facilities with unannounced visits or offsite worker interviews? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand share audit reports and corrective action plans publicly? (partial= some) Q4 Does the brand share broad audit results publicly? Q5 Does the brand have a safety incident reporting and investigation procedure? Q6 Does the brand invest in training suppliers, buyers and factory managers to understand human trafficking, child labour, and forced labour risks? Q7 Does the brand actively improve leverage and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
69 SURVEY DATA AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS Raw Materials: M–Z
OVERALL GRADE C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
AUDITING & SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP GRADE D+ B+ C+ C+ C+ C C– B+ C+ F B+ A– F C+ C– C C C C+ F B+ B D+ C+ B B+ C+ D+ C– C– B+ B F D+ F C
Raw Materials Q1 Does the brand audit 100% of its traced facilities over a two–year period? (partial= some monitored) Q2 Does the brand audit at least 75% of its traced facilities with unannounced visits or offsite worker interviews? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand share audit reports and corrective action plans publicly? (partial= some) Q4 Does the brand share broad audit results publicly? Q5 Does the brand have a safety incident reporting and investigation procedure? Q6 Does the brand invest in training suppliers, buyers and factory managers to understand human trafficking, child labour, and forced labour risks? Q7 Does the brand actively improve leverage and relationships with suppliers, through supplier consolidation and/or industry collaboration?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
70 SURVEY DATA WORKER EMPOWERMENT Final Manufacturing/Inputs Production: A–L
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica
WORKER EMPOWERMENT GRADE D– B– F F C– C+ C+ D– D+ D+ F D– F F D+ D– F F D+ F D D+ F B– C+ C C+ F D+ C– A– D D+ F F F C C+ C– D– D+ F F C– D+ D C+ C+ F D+ F B C+ D+ C– D D C+ C+ C– D+ A– F F C– B+ D F D+
Final Manufacturing Q1 Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q2 Are collective bargaining agreements in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand have a functioning grievance mechanism? Q4 Are workers trained on their rights and entitlements and how to use grievance mechanisms? Q5 Does the company actively engage with local civil society organisations working on labour rights in the regions that they operate in? Q6 Does the brand have any systems or policies in place to rehabilitate child and forced labourers if discovered? Inputs Production Q1 Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q2 Are collective bargaining agreements in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand have a functioning grievance mechanism? Q4 Are workers trained on their rights and entitlements and how to use grievance mechanisms? Q5 Does the company actively engage with local civil society organisations working on labour rights in the regions that they operate in? Q6 Does the brand have any systems or policies in place to rehabilitate child and forced labourers if discovered?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO * = non-responsive companies 71 SURVEY DATA WORKER EMPOWERMENT Final Manufacturing/Inputs Production: M–Z
OVERALL GRADE B– C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
WORKER EMPOWERMENT GRADE D+ D– A– D+ C– D+ D+ D– B– D+ F C+ B– F C D+ D– D+ D– C+ F B+ D F D D+ D+ C– D D– D+ D D F F F D
Final Manufacturing Q1 Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q2 Are collective bargaining agreements in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand have a functioning grievance mechanism? Q4 Are workers trained on their rights and entitlements and how to use grievance mechanisms? Q5 Does the company actively engage with local civil society organisations working on labour rights in the regions that they operate in? Q6 Does the brand have any systems or policies in place to rehabilitate child and forced labourers if discovered? Inputs Production Q1 Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q2 Are collective bargaining agreements in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand have a functioning grievance mechanism? Q4 Are workers trained on their rights and entitlements and how to use grievance mechanisms? Q5 Does the company actively engage with local civil society organisations working on labour rights in the regions that they operate in? Q6 Does the brand have any systems or policies in place to rehabilitate child and forced labourers if discovered?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO * = non-responsive companies 72 SURVEY DATA WORKER EMPOWERMENT Raw Materials: A–L
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ Abercrombie & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica
WORKER EMPOWERMENT GRADE D– B– F F C– C+ C+ D– D+ D+ F D– F F D+ D– F F D+ F D D+ F B– C+ C C+ F D+ C– A– D D+ F F F C C+ C– D– D+ F F C– D+ D C+ C+ F D+ F B C+ D+ C– D D C+ C+ C– D+ A– F F C– B+ D F D+
Raw Materials Q1 Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q2 Are collective bargaining agreements in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand have a functioning grievance mechanism? Q4 Are workers trained on their rights and entitlements and how to use grievance mechanisms? Q5 Does the company actively engage with local civil society organisations working on labour rights in the regions that they operate in? Q6 Does the brand have any systems or policies in place to rehabilitate child and forced labourers if discovered?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
73 SURVEY DATA WORKER EMPOWERMENT Raw Materials: M–Z
OVERALL GRADE B– C A+ C+ B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+ Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann
WORKER EMPOWERMENT GRADE D+ D– A– D+ C– D+ D+ D– B– D+ F C+ B– F C D+ D– D+ D– C+ F B+ D F D D+ D+ C– D D– D+ D D F F F D
Raw Materials Q1 Are democratically elected unions in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q2 Are collective bargaining agreements in at least 50% of facilities? (partial= some) Q3 Does the brand have a functioning grievance mechanism? Q4 Are workers trained on their rights and entitlements and how to use grievance mechanisms? Q5 Does the company actively engage with local civil society organisations working on labour rights in the regions that they operate in? Q6 Does the brand have any systems or policies in place to rehabilitate child and forced labourers if discovered?
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
* = non-responsive companies
74 SURVEY DATA LIVING WAGES Final Manufacturing/Inputs Production: A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– C A+ C+
LIVING WAGES & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Final Manufacturing Q1 Has the brand developed a living wage methodology and calculated a living wage for each region that it operates in? Q2 Does the brand make aggregated wage data publicly available? Q3 What percentage of traced facilities pay a living wage? (partial for payments substantially above
minimum wages) 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 100% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 51–75% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 1–25% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 51–75% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 26–50% 1–25% 51–75% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 1–25% 1–25% 26–50% 51–75% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 100% 0% Q4 What percentage of traced facilities have projects to improve wages?
0% 1–25% 0% 0% 26–50% 100% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 26–50% 1–25% 51–75% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 76–99% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 1–25% 100% 0% 1–25% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 1–25% 51–75% 0% 0% 1–25% 76–99% 26–50% 26–50% 100% 0% 0% 1–25% 100% 76–99% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 0% 100% 0%
Inputs Production Q1 Has the brand developed a living wage methodology and calculated a living wage for each region that it operates in? Q2 Does the brand make aggregated wage data publicly available? Q3 What percentage of facilities pay a living wage? (partial for payments substantially above minimum
wages) 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 26–50% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 51–75% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 51–75% 0% Q4 What percentage of facilities have projects to improve wages?
0% 0% 0% 0% 26–50% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 100% 0%
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies 75 SURVEY DATA LIVING WAGES Final Manufacturing/Inputs Production: N–Z
OVERALL GRADE B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+
LIVING WAGES Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann Final Manufacturing Q1 Has the brand developed a living wage methodology and calculated a living wage for each region that it operates in? Q2 Does the brand make aggregated wage data publicly available? Q3 What percentage of traced facilities pay a living wage? (partial for payments substantially above
minimum wages) 0% 0% 0% 0% 51–75% 0% 0% 26–50% 26–50% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 51–75% 0% 26–50% 0% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 26–50% 1–25% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% Q4 What percentage of traced facilities have projects to improve wages?
26–50% 0% 1–25% 0% 26–50% 0% 0% 26–50% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 51–75% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 1–25%
Inputs Production Q1 Has the brand developed a living wage methodology and calculated a living wage for each region that it operates in? Q2 Does the brand make aggregated wage data publicly available? Q3 What percentage of facilities pay a living wage? (partial for payments substantially above minimum
wages) 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 1–25% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 26–50% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% Q4 What percentage of facilities have projects to improve wages?
0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0%
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies 76 SURVEY DATA LIVING WAGES Raw Materials: A–M
OVERALL GRADE D+ A– C+ F B C+ A– C+ B– B– C– C– C F C+ C+ F C– B– C C+ C+ F A– B+ B– B+ F B– B+ A+ C+ C F D+ D+ B A– B– C– B– D– C B– C+ C B+ B+ C– C+ D– A B+ B+ B C+ C+ B+ B+ B B– A D+ C+ B+ A C+ D+ B+ B– C A+ C+
LIVING WAGES & Fitch* Abercrombie adidas Group Aldi Ally Fashion* American Apparel Anthea Crawford* APG & Co Group Arcadia Colour AS ASOS Bardot Ben Sherman Australia & Less Best Betts* Big W Billabong Bloch* Blue Illusion Boden Collective Brand Clarks Coles Group* Apparel Corporate On Group Cotton Group Road Country Cue Clothing Co Jones David Decjuba* Designworks Esprit Etiko EziBuy X Factory Farmers* Brands Future Fast 21 Forever New Forever Freeset Fruit of the Loom Brands Fusion Retail Gap Gazal* Pants General Glassons Gorman Grosby H&M Inc. Hanesbrands House of Quirky Hushpuppies Icebreaker* Inditex Industrie Jeanswest Jets Julius Marlow Group Just Walker Karen Kathmandu Kmart Australia Kookai Kowtow L Brands* Lacoste & Co. Strauss Levi Liminal Apparel Jane Lorna Lowes Lululemon Athletica Macpac Max Mighty Good Undies Myer Raw Materials Q1 Has the brand developed a living wage methodology and calculated a living wage for each region that it operates in? Q2 Does the brand make aggregated wage data publicly available? Q3 What percentage of traced facilities pay a living wage? (partial for payments substantially above
minimum wages) 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% Q4 What percentage of traced facilities have projects to improve wages?
0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0% 26–50% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 26–50% 100% 0% 100% 0% 0% 100% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 0% 1–25% 100% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 76–99% 0% 1–25% 0% 0% 100% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0%
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies
77 SURVEY DATA LIVING WAGES Raw Materials: N–Z
OVERALL GRADE B– C+ C+ C A– B– F A– A D– B– C+ C C+ C+ B+ F A+ B– C– C+ B B B– C+ C C+ B B– F C– F C+
LIVING WAGES Balance New Next Nike* Noni B Nudie Jeans Group Oroton Oxford* Brands Pacific Patagonia Brands* United Pavement Puma Corp PVH Quiksilver Group Apparel Retail Rip Curl R.M. Williams David* Roger RREPP Seafolly Seed Heritage Simon de Winter Group Specialty Fashion Group Sussan Australia Target Group PAS The Group* Warehouse The of Life Tree UNIQLO VF Corporation Co* Distributing Voyager Holdings Webster Wish* Zimmermann Raw Materials Q1 Has the brand developed a living wage methodology and calculated a living wage for each region that it operates in? Q2 Does the brand make aggregated wage data publicly available? Q3 What percentage of traced facilities pay a living wage? (partial for payments substantially above
minimum wages) 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% Q4 What percentage of traced facilities have projects to improve wages?
0% 0% 100% 76–99% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 76–99% 0% 76–99% 0% 0% 0% 0% 100% 0% 0% 0% 0%
Key: YES PARTIAL NO
100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies
78 Appendices
79 STATEMENTS FROM NON-RESPONSIVE COMPANIES
Of the 106 companies covered in our 2017 report, 17 companies chose not to engage with our research and they have been listed as “non-responsive”. We offered to include a short statement from each of them on why they decided not to participate in the research. The following 5 companies provided statements:
Corporate Apparel Group civil society, governments, and the private sector reports (and also from a competitive perspective) Corporate Apparel Group indicated that consumers to affect systemic change to labor and and as such is unwilling to submit such information can find publicly available information about the environmental conditions in countries where we for publication in the broader sense. However, company’s ethical responsibility on its website: operate. For more information please see: http:// should BWA or any member of their team like to http://www.cag.com.au/responsibility-governance/. about.nike.com/pages/resources-faq.” visit our premises, we would be more than happy to exhibit such reports.” Nike Oxford “Nike, Inc. appreciates opportunities to learn from “A significant number of Oxford’s suppliers are Pavement United Brands external organizations, like Baptist World Aid, to subject to rigorous assessments by an “Pavement United Brands is committed to ethical continue to understand stakeholder expectations, independent third party. A detailed Social Audit and sustainable work and supply chain practices. which can help inform our disclosures. As part of evaluates each factory on: 1) Child Labour, We strive to ensure a safe and fair working our engagement with BWA’s Ethical Supply Chain 2) Forced Labour, 3) Health & Safety, 4) Freedom environment for all of our employees, and the Research, we have provided links to publicly of Association, 5) Discrimination, 6) Disciplinary employees of our suppliers. The majority of our available information and documentation relating Practices, 7) Regular Employment, 8) Working products are sourced from Southern China where to our supply chain practices. We are committed Hours, 9) Compensation. only known reputable, regulated factories are used. to putting the protection of workers at the center Our concern for worker exploitation is evidenced As a relatively small business with very limited of our sustainable manufacturing and sourcing by our commitment and perseverance to ensuring resources, we simply do not have the time and business model. Our Code of Conduct and Code organisations within our supply-chain consistently money to dedicate to pulling together the specific Leadership Standards set our minimum standard treat their employees fairly and humanely. In documentation required by surveys such as this.” requirements for all contract factory respect to providing copies of such SGS reports manufacturers. We will continue to work with for broader publication and dissemination by fewer, better factories who are committed to Baptist World Aid, regrettably we wish to advise engaging, protecting and respecting their that Oxford values the sensitive nature of these workforce. And we will continue to engage with
80 STATEMENTS FROM NON-RESPONSIVE COMPANIES
The Warehouse “The Warehouse has had an active Ethical Baptist World Aid welcomes the time that Sourcing programme since 2004, working directly companies have taken to provide a short with factories to improve working conditions. statement. We remain open to working with We commend Baptist World Aid for their work all companies we assess, to better understand researching this important topic. We have not the systems they have in place to ensure participated in their survey because we feel the that workers are not being exploited. We comparative (A–F) ranking assigned to each brand appreciate that companies of all sizes have is potentially misleading for consumers. The Truth engaged, with most finding the process of Behind the Barcodes reports contain the being benchmarked and gaining feedback disclaimer “… we have gathered data on … (CSR) helpful. We believe that strong systems, systems and not on the actual working conditions matched by full, open and honest disclosures they are designed to ameliorate.” This vital distinction is easily missed by consumers who look by companies (preferably through public to the ranking as a shorthand for “good factory/ disclosure) are the best way for consumers bad factory”. CSR systems are undoubtedly to make decisions on which companies are important, however, with so many variations in taking appropriate measures to address their application, and challenges to the integrity of exploitation in their supply chain. the data they rely upon, they should not be taken as an equivalent to “actual working conditions”. Hence consumers cannot rely on the report rankings as a valid comparison between brands.”
81 SOURCES AND FURTHER READING
Executive Summary ‘Bangladesh Accord Update’, UNI Global Union — ‘Sweatshops in Bangladesh’, War On Want: http://www. ‘Fire Kills Factory Workers in India’s Sahibabad’, Al Jazeera, The Bangladesh Accord: http://www.unibangladeshaccord. waronwant.org/sweatshops-bangladesh. org/?p=421. 11 November 2016: http://www.aljazeera.com/ ‘Three years after signing Bangladesh Accord, H&M news/2016/11/fire-kills-factory-workers-india- Fair Wear Foundation, Bangladesh Country Study 2015: factories still not safe’, Clean Clothes Campaign, sahibabad-161111072912321.html. https://www.fairwear.org/resource/bangladesh-country- 2 May 2016: https://cleanclothes.org/news/press- P Huynh, Employment, wages and growth in Asia’s study-2016-2/. releases/2016/05/02/three-years-after-signing- bangladesh-accord-h-m-factories-still-not-safe. Garment sector: Finding new drivers of competitiveness, ‘Four years since the Tazreen factory fire: justice only half ILO Asia-Pacific Working Series, November 2015: http:// done’, Clean Clothes Campaign, 24 November 2016: ‘Three Years On From Rana Plaza, The Bangladesh Accord www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/---ro- https://cleanclothes.org/news/2016/11/24/four-years- Is Saving Lives’, UNI Global Union — The Bangladesh bangkok/documents/publication/wcms_426563.pdf. since-the-tazreen-factory-fire-justice-only-half-done. Accord: http://www.unibangladeshaccord.org/?p=429. International Labour Organization (ILO), Global Wage Global Living Wage Coalition, ‘Global Living Wage Series: V Vara, ‘Three years after the Rana Plaza disaster, work Report 2014/15: Wages and income inequality, 5 December Bangladesh, Dhaka City’: http://www.isealalliance.org/ conditions are still substandard’, Bloomberg Businessweek, 2014: http://ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---dgreports/--- sites/default/files/Dhaka_Living_Wage_Benchmark_ 27 October 2016: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/ dcomm/---publ/documents/publication/wcms_324678.pdf. Infographic.pdf. articles/2016-10-27/clothing-keeps-getting-cheaper-and- factory-workers-are-paying-the-price. ---, ‘Strong Export and Job Growth in Asia’s Garment and ILO, ‘Bangladesh. Improving working conditions in the Footwear Sector’, November 2015: http://www.ilo.org/ ready made garment industry: Progress and wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/---ro-bangkok/ achievements’, September 2016: http://www.ilo.org/dhaka/ Made in Cambodia documents/publication/wcms_419798.pdf. Whatwedo/Projects/WCMS_240343/lang--de/index.htm. Our Cambodia worker story is based on an interview ---, ‘Wages and productivity in the garment sector in Asia ---, Strengthening workplace safety and labour rights in with Theary Som, conducted in January 2016. and the Pacific and the Arab States’, 7 November 2016: the Bangladesh Ready-Made Garment sector, September http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/---ro- 2016: http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/-- BD Link Cambodia, Garment Workers’ Health and bangkok/documents/publication/wcms_534289.pdf. -ro-bangkok/---ilo-dhaka/documents/publication/ Nutrition: A Study from Selected Enterprises in Cambodia, wcms_474048.pdf. May 2016: http://betterfactories.org/cambodia/wp- content/uploads/2016/06/Final-Report_Garment- L Kaye, ‘Three Years After Rana Plaza, Worker Safety Made in Bangladesh Workers-Health-and-Nutrition_June_20161.pdf. Improves in Bangladesh’, TriplePundit, 10 June 2016: http:// Our Bangladesh worker story is based on a piece featured www.triplepundit.com/special/cotton-sustainability-c-and- ‘Cambodia raises minimum wage for textile workers’, on page 16 of Labour Behind the Label’s Do We Buy It? a-foundation/bangladesh-worker-accord-fire-and- Deutsche Welle, September 29, 2016: http://www.dw.com/ report, adapted with permission. Labour Behind the Label, building-safety/. en/cambodia-raises-minimum-wage-for- Do We Buy It?, February 2017: http://labourbehindthelabel. textile-workers/a-35926002. org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/DoWeBuyIt- S Labowitz, ‘New data on the number of factories in spreadssml.pdf. Bangladesh’, Stern Center for Business and Human Rights ‘Garment workers in Cambodia win minimum-wage hike’, blog, 23 June 2016: http://bhr.stern.nyu.edu/blogs/-data- Times of Cambodia, October 22, 2016: http:// Bangladesh Accord on Fire & Building Safety in on-number-of-factories-bd. timesofcambodia.com/garment-workers-cambodia-win- Bangladesh, ‘Bangladesh Accord: Guide for Potential minimum-wage-hike/. T Narayanasamy, ‘Out of the ashes of Rana Plaza’, New Signatories’, January 2015: http://bangladeshaccord.org/ Internationalist magazine, September 2016: https://newint. wp-content/uploads/Bangladesh-Accord-Guide-for- org/features/2016/09/01/out-of-the-ashes-of-rana-plaza/. Potential-Signatories1.pdf.
82 SOURCES AND FURTHER READING
E Germans, ‘Op Ed: Better Factories Cambodia and its ‘China sentences Guangdong labour activists for guangdong-labour-activist-meng-han-sentenced-1-year-9- 15-year journey’, Better Work, October 20, 2016: http:// “disturbing social order”’, Hong Kong Free Press, months/. betterwork.org/blog/2016/10/20/op-ed-better-factories- 27 September 2016: https://www.hongkongfp. ‘Polyester Fibres’, IHS Markit, November 2016: https:// cambodia-and-its-15-year-journey/. com/2016/09/27/china-sentences-guangdong-labour- www.ihs.com/products/polyester-fibers-chemical- activists-disturbing-social-order/. ‘How is Cambodia’s minimum wage adjusted?’, ILO: economics-handbook.html. Cambodian Garment and Footwear Sector Bulletin, Issue ‘Chinese Labour Rights activists still in prison’, Clean T Pringle, ‘What do labour NGOs in China do?’, China 3, March 2016: http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/- Clothes Campaign, 31 October 2016: https://cleanclothes. Policy Institute: Analysis, 17 October 2016: https:// --asia/---ro-bangkok/documents/publication/ org/news/2016/10/31/chinese-labour-rights-activists-still- cpianalysis.org/2016/10/17/what-do-labour-ngos-in-china- wcms_463849.pdf. in-prison. do/. ILO, ‘Trends in Cambodian garment and footwear prices N Connor, ‘Three Labour rights activists sentenced in ‘Wages and employment’, China Labour Bulletin, 2016: and their implications for wages and working conditions’, China amid worker unrest’, The Telegraph, 27 September http://www.clb.org.hk/content/wages-and-employment. Cambodian Garment and Footwear Sector Bulletin, Issue 2016: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/09/27/ 4, 1 September 2016: http://www.ilo.org/asia/whatwedo/ three-labour-rights-activists-sentenced-in-china-amid- publications/WCMS_517535/lang--en/index.htm. worker-unr/. Made in India M Kasztelan, ‘Cambodia’s garment workers vulnerable to ‘Detained labour activist Meng Han unbowed and Our India worker story is based on Devina Singh’s article, unsafe abortions’, The Guardian, 13 July 2016: https://www. unrepentant’, China Labour Bulletin, 8 March 2016: http:// with her permission. D Singh, ‘5 inspiring women farmers theguardian.com/global-development/2016/jul/13/ www.clb.org.hk/content/detained-labour-activist-meng- who are making India a better place’, daily O, 8 March cambodias-garment-workers-vulnerable-to-unsafe- han-unbowed-and-unrepentant. 2016: http://www.dailyo.in/politics/womens-day-fairtrade- abortions. Fair Wear Foundation, China Country Study 2015: http:// farming-gender-equality-rural-economy-entrepreneurs- J Merk, ‘Country Study Cambodia 2016: Labour Standards www.fairwear.org/ul/cms/fck-uploaded/documents/ sustainability-cooperative-farming/story/1/9433.html. in the Garment Supply Chain’, CNV International, 2 countrystudies/china/FWFCSChina2016.pdf R Chandran, ‘Analysis – Indian apparel makers try on November 2016: https://www.cnvinternationaal.nl/_ A Harney, ‘How old-school factories stay alive in China’s ethical supply chains for size’, Reuters, 5 August 2016: Resources/Persistent/0e05eebdbf4a1a6c31409dc south’, Business Insider, 21 May 2016: http://www. http://uk.reuters.com/article/uk-india-textiles-ethics- 12aee83b8f532a4b5/20161102%20CNV%20CS%20 businessinsider.com/r-how-old-school-factories analysis-idUKKCN10G1HW. Cambo_clickable%20extern%20ENG%20DEF.pdf. -stay-alive-in-chinas-south-2016-5/?r=AU&IR=T. E Chhabra, ‘The Naked Truth Behind Denim: How One N A Thompson, ‘In Cambodia, workers’ rights for women J Johnson et al., ‘The World and United States Cotton Swedish Brand Is Cleaning Up Its Supply Chain’, Forbes, slow to come’, Al Jazeera, 12 March 2016: http://www. Outlook’, presented at the Agricultural Outlook Forum, 28 August 2016: http://www.forbes.com/sites/ aljazeera.com/indepth/features/2016/03/cambodia- 26 February 2016: https://www.ihs.com/products/ eshachhabra/2016/08/25/the-naked-truth-behind-denim- workers-rights-women-slow-160310110241090.html. polyester-fibers-chemical-economics-handbook.html. how-one-swedish-brand-is-cleaning-up-their-supply- chain/print/. ‘Labour activist Meng Han sentenced to 21 months’, China Made in China Labour Bulletin, 4 November 2016: http://www.clb.org.hk/ ‘Cotton’, Fairtrade Australia: http://fairtrade.com.au/en-au/ T Barnes & K Lin, ‘China’s growing labour movement offers content/labour-activist-meng-han-sentenced-21-months fairtrade-products/cotton. hope for workers globally’, The Conversation, 17 April 2015: C Lai, ‘Guangdong labour activist Meng Han sentenced to Fair Wear Foundation, India Country Study 2016: http:// http://theconversation.com/chinas-growing-labour- 1 year, 9 months’, Hong Kong Free Press, 3 November www.fairwear.org/resource/india-country-study-2016/. movement-offers-hope-for-workers-globally-39921. 2016: https://www.hongkongfp.com/2016/11/03/
83 SOURCES AND FURTHER READING
‘India’, Better Cotton Initiative: http://bettercotton.org/ Made in Australia Further reading and resources about-better-cotton/regions/india/. Our Australia worker story is a redacted version of a piece Better Cotton Initiative: www.bettercotton.org. contributed by Brooke Summers for Cotton Australia. ‘India’, Global Slavery Index: http://www.globalslaveryindex. Pesticides Action Network UK (PAN UK) et al., Sustainable org/country/india/. Cotton Australia, ‘Thousands of Pakistani cotton growers Cotton Ranking: Assessing company performance, June J Johnson et al., ‘The World and United States Cotton to benefit from global cotton industry partnership’, media 2016: https://www.solidaridadnetwork.org/sites/ Outlook’, presented at the Agricultural Outlook Forum, release, 1 September 2016: http://cottonaustralia.com.au/ solidaridadnetwork.org/files/publications/Cotton%20 26 February 2016: https://www.ihs.com/products/ news/article/thousands-of-pakistani-cotton-growers-to- Ranking%20Report%20-%20June%202016_0.pdf. polyester-fibers-chemical-economics-handbook.html. benefit-from-global-cotton-industr. PAN UK et al., Mind the Gap: Towards a More Sustainable P J Nath, ‘Everyone gets a fair deal’, The Hindu, ---, ‘The history of cotton in Australia’: http:// Cotton Market, April 2016: https://www. 26 November 2016: http://www.thehindu.com/todays- cottonaustralia.com.au/uploads/resources/CEK_Chap_3_ solidaridadnetwork.org/sites/solidaridadnetwork.org/files/ paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/Everyone-gets-a-fair- The_History_of_Cotton.pdf. publications/Mind%20the%20Gap%20-%20Towards%20 deal/article16704279.ece. a%20more%20Sustainable%20Cotton%20Market.pdf. ‘Ethical practices help fashion labels stand out from the G Nimbalker, ‘Anita’s Wish’, Baptist World Aid Australia, crowd,’ The Plato Project, 12 December 2016: https:// International Labour Rights Forum, Our Voices, Our Safety, 1 March 2016: https://baptistworldaid.org.au/2016/03/01/ theplatoproject.com/ethical-practices-help-fashion-labels- December 2015: http://laborrights.org/sites/default/files/ anitas-wish/. stand-out-from-the-crowd/ publications/Our%20Voices,%20Our%20Safety%20 Online_1.pdf. J Sette, ‘Cotton Report’, presented at the 6th Dedicated S Frith (2004) ‘Chapter 6. From Tanning to Planning: An Discussion of the Relevant Trade-related Developments on Industrial History of Green Square’, in Karskens, Grace and International Trade Centre (ITC) Standards Map interactive Cotton, Geneva, 23 November 2016: https://www.wto.org/ Rogowsky, Melita (eds), Histories of Green Square tool: http://www.standardsmap.org/identify. english/news_e/news16_e/cdac_23nov16_e.pdf. (University of New South Wales, Sydney): 49-54. Know The Chain, Apparel & Footwear Benchmark Findings Stop The Traffik, ‘Living Wage’, YouTube, 10 December J Johnson et al., ‘The World and United States Cotton Report, December 2016: https://knowthechain.org. 2015: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXRUw4cgZhs/. Outlook’, presented at the Agricultural Outlook Forum, Walk Free Foundation, Harnessing the Power of Business B Vachharajani, ‘Meet India’s female “seed guardians” 26 February 2016: https://www.ihs.com/products/ to End Modern Slavery, 2016: http://walkfreefoundation. pioneering organic farming’, The Guardian, 19 February polyester-fibers-chemical-economics-handbook.html. org-assets.s3-ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/content/ 2016: https://www.theguardian.com/global-development- S Weller, ‘Retail, Clothing and Textiles Production in uploads/2016/12/01213809/Harnessing-the-power-of- professionals-network/2016/feb/18/meet-indias-female- Australia’, Working Paper No. 29, Centre for Strategic business-to-end-modern-slavery-20161130.pdf seed-guardians-pioneering-organic-farming. Economic Studies, Victoria University, 2007: http://www. ---, Tackling Modern Slavery in Supply Chains: A Guide 1.0, vises.org.au/documents/wp29.pdf. 2014: http://s3-ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/business. walkfreefoundation.org-assets/content/uploads/2016 /09/08101240/TacklingModernSlaveryInSupply Chains20141-1.pdf.
84 ABOUT BAPTIST WORLD AID
Baptist World Aid Australia is an international Established in 1959, we work with 38 local partners in 22 countries in Asia, Africa, the Middle East and aid and development organisation, with a Acknowledgments the Pacific. Our activities cover four key areas: vision to see a world where poverty has ended, We would like to thank our volunteers Our Community Development projects build where all people enjoy the fullness of life Alexandra Turner, Suzannah Powter and Nitin lasting solutions to poverty for entire communities; Patel who contributed many hours God intends. Our Child Sponsorship program assists children of research for this project over the last 12 months. to break down the barriers of poverty — We work to achieve our vision through two equally for themselves and their whole community; We are thankful to all of the representatives important partnerships: from all the companies that engaged with our Our work in disaster saves lives before, during research this year, for the time and effort they We partner with like-minded agencies overseas and after a disaster strikes; to empower communities to lift themselves out put into collating and sharing data with us. Thanks also to Better Cotton Initiative, Ethical of poverty, challenge injustice and build resilience; We stand with the oppressed and marginalised and advocate for a more just world. Clothing Australia and Fairtrade Australia for We partner with Christians and churches in helping us better understand their systems. Australia, particularly those from the Baptist Baptist World Aid has been involved in campaigning various industries to end worker Special mention to Salaheya Khatun, Heather movement, in generous giving, ethical Stilwell and Labour Behind The Label (Made in consumption, courageous advocacy and faithful exploitation for over nine years and began research into the fashion and electronics industries Bangladesh), Theary Som (Made in Cambodia), prayer in order to achieve justice for people living Devina Patel (Made in India), and Simon Corish in poverty. in 2010. This report is the fourth of its kind, and has been renamed the Ethical Fashion Report to and Brooke Summers (Made in Australia) for allowing us to share their personal stories in reflect the increasingly broad and global scope this report. of our research. We would also like to thank those who have made a donation to our crowdfunding campaign, enabling us grow the breadth of our research. Thank you Caringbah Baptist Church, Good On You, Corrine Moseley, Gerard McCulloch, Sheree Brugel, David Maxwell, John Lewis, Suzanne Trenbath, Christine Glatzel, Sylvia Jones, Anthea Gregan, David Linehan, James & Daphne Foster, Stephanie Dobbin, Libby Baker, Lisa Champion, Annabel Hart, Montana Coombes.
85