TOUGH LITTLE TIMES GEM COSMOPROF FACES MARIE-HELENE CHALLENGES SIMILAR TO DE TAILLAC OPENS A THOSE OF THE ITALIAN NEW YORK STORE. PAGE 3 ECONOMY. PAGE 8

ADDING TO THE STABLE Sequential Acquires Ellen Tracy Rights

By VICKI M. YOUNG

ELLEN TRACY and Caribbean Joe have been sold again. Brand management fi rm Sequential Brands Group has acquired the intellectual property rights to the two FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY brands from Brand Matter for $62.3 million in cash and 2.8 million in the common stock of Sequential. WWD The total value of the transaction is about $81.9 million. The stock component of the deal is val- ued at $19.6 million, based on the closing price of Sequential’s stock at $7 a share on March 26, a share- price amount that also represents the trading range for the better part of March. Sequential has acquired three brands in the last four months. The third, Heelys, was acquired in December for $63.2 million. The latest two acquisitions complete Sequential’s basic platform of six core brands that together com- prise more than 50 licensees; a run rate close to $1 billion in retail sales worldwide, and between $23 million and $25 million in royalty revenues. The brands operate at a 50 percent earnings before inter- est, taxes, depreciation and amortization margin. The other brands in Sequential’s portfolio are William Rast, People’s Liberation and DVS Action Sports. Sequential in January closed on a private place- ment that netted the fi rm $22.4 million in net pro- ceeds. Following the close of the latest acquisition, and after accounting for related transaction costs and expenses, Sequential will have $15 million in cash on its balance sheet. Like Sequential, Brand Matter was a brand man- agement fi rm. Both have a connection to William Sweedler, an investor in both as well as cofounder of Tengram Capital Partners, a consumer private equity fi rm. With the exception of Sweedler, the sharehold- ers in both Sequential, a public entity, and Brand Matter, a privately held fi rm, belong to different in- vestor groups. Ownership in Brand Matter was based on a con- sortium of more than 50 investors, of which Sweedler, SEE PAGE 4 PVH’s Calvin Plan

By ARNOLD J. KARR

NEW YORK — Emanuel Chirico and his team at PVH Corp. think they’ve got the right prescription to re- invigorate the ailing Calvin Klein Jeans business — shrink it to grow it. On a Thursday morning conference call to discuss the fi rm’s fourth-quarter results, Chirico, chairman and chief executive offi cer of PVH, provided analysts with a status report on the condition of the jeans and underwear businesses picked up in the $2.9 billion acquisition of Warnaco on Feb. 13. He also outlined Stone’s Throw the steps planned to fi x the struggling jeans piece. Vera Wang’s sixth major fragrance launch takes on a new kind of rock: the gemlike kind. The cuts in the jeans business will take a variety of forms, from lower sales to secondary and off-price Called Be Jeweled, the youthful fragrance takes its cues from jewelry and other accoutrements retail accounts and the closure of unprofi table stores, of a night on the town. Exclusive to Kohl’s Department Stores, the scent will be launched in to the elimination of 900 to 1,000 jobs, disclosed last late April and could do $25 million at retail in its fi rst year on counter. For more, see page 6. week, and an effort to quickly reduce excess inven- tory. The downsizing will be balanced against invest- ments to improve management, infrastructure, mar- keting, retail presentation and overall operational effi ciencies, some affecting underwear as well as jeans. Merchandising and design upgrades at Calvin Klein Jeans are already under way and date back to Warnaco’s stewardship of the business. The problems with the jeans business vary by market. In North America, jeans and underwear sales are “a little bit over $500 million with 10 percent operat- ing margins,” according to Chirico, but a “very profi t- able underwear business” is offset by “an underper- forming jeans business” that’s been “overly dependent PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY SHARON BER on the off-price and [warehouse] club channel.” SEE PAGE 2 2 WWD friday, march 29, 2013 Chirico Outlines Plans for Calvin {Continued from page one} ness under Warnaco that has en- acquisition, originally expected to the Briefing Box Because of this lopsided distri- joyed double-digit growth over add 35 cents a share to earnings bution, “Calvin Klein has lost the last five years, and Chirico this year, would instead subtract in Today’s WWd its leadership position in jeans noted the need for investment to 25 cents from them, leading PVH with all of its major department “fully integrate this business into to project full-year earnings per store customers.” our systems and supply chain share of $7 as opposed to the $7.46 A photo from Elle Muliarchyk’s “Escapes From Paradise.” Jeans and underwear gener- over the next 24 months.” earlier estimated by Wall Street. For more, see WWD.com. ate about $500 million in Europe, Asian sales for the Calvin Klein The bearish guidance pushed but operating margins — earn- jeans and underwear business are PVH shares down in after-hours ings before interest and taxes expected to expand about 5 per- trading Wednesday, and they divided by sales — were below 4 cent this year. The sole sore spot continued on that same trajec- percent last year, a third of their has been in Korea, where same- tory Thursday, closing at $106.81, pre-2011 peak. store sales are down more than 10 down $5.98, or 5.3 percent. “Our plan is to fully integrate this percent “in the context of a difficult Chirico said that PVH hoped business into our Tommy Hilfiger consumer environment and a diffi- to move Warnaco’s Calvin Klein

European operating platform over cult denim landscape,” he said. businesses to an operating mar- hyk the next 12 months,” Chirico said, “We were surprised on the lo- gin of about 12 percent from a C adding the European headquarters gistics side, on the infrastructure current level of 8.5 percent in the will move to Amsterdam from its side, on the supply chain side,” next three to four years. lle Muliar e current base in London. The busi- he said of the condition of the He contrasted the Warnaco deal ness now will be supervised by Fred Warnaco businesses upon com- with the 2003 acquisition of Calvin Gehring, ceo of Tommy Hilfiger and pletion of the acquisition. “But… Klein Inc., which essentially made PVH International. as we fix those things, without a Warnaco its licensee, and the 2010 For 2013, the Klein business doubt those weaknesses today purchase of Tommy Hilfiger. of Courtesy in Europe is expected to be down create more long-term opportu- “This is a major, complicated Sequential Brands Group has acquired the intellectual in the low- to midsingle digits as nity for us as we go forward, as acquisition,” he told one analyst. property rights to Ellen Tracy and Caribbean Joe in a deal worth 15 to 20 unprofitable stores are we hopefully improve that infra- “It’s over $2 billion in sales in four about $81.9 million. PAGE 1 closed and sales to off-pricers structure and supply chain….” geographic regions. I’m not going

and what Chirico termed “unpro- The ceo’s preliminary diag- to be Pollyanna about this — this ductive small specialty accounts” nosis and anticipated remedies is more complicated than other Emanuel Chirico and his team at PVH Corp. think they’ve will be scaled back. dominated the call after PVH acquisitions we’ve done, and it’s got the right prescription to reinvigorate the ailing Calvin Asia was a $530 million busi- said Wednesday that the Warnaco required us to really dig in.” Klein Jeans business — shrink it to grow it. PAGE 1

Bangladesh government officials and the country’s main apparel organization faced a barrage of questions and scrutiny from U.S. government and labor officials on Thursday. PAGE 2 Bangladesh Officials on Hot Seat in Washington economics at the AFL-CIO, which 2009 and 2012, there were 780 Naeem Khan has a tendency to speak in the present tense By KRISTI ELLIS originally filed a petition against fires without associated deaths. about his early days at Halston and his more recent ones Bangladesh’s worker and labor He also touted the launch of dressing Michelle Obama. PAGE 3 WASHINGTON — Bangladesh rights in 2007 under the GSP pro- a national action plan for the government officials and the coun- gram seeking to have its benefits garment industry that includes EBay Inc. is bullish on the next three years, projecting revenues try’s main apparel organization withdrawn or limited. “[One hun- the launch of a fire-safety ho- to grow more than 50 percent to at least $21.5 billion in 2015, faced a barrage of questions and dred eleven] lives should not… tline that he told U.S. officials from $14.1 billion in 2012. PAGE 4 scrutiny from U.S. government and have been lost in the Tazreen fire in has been placed in every gar- labor officials on Thursday — the order to convince the government ment factory. Ahmed assured Kay Krill, chief executive officer and president of Ann Inc., first time they have been publicly to begin implementing fire-safety officials that amendments to saw her total pay rise 17.6 percent to $12.7 million made to account for steps they are precautions that have been com- Bangladesh’s labor law, includ- last year. PAGE 4 taking to crack down on rampant mon knowledge for over a century.” ing giving the workers in export-

garment factory fires after two Drake said the time for processing zones the right to fatal blazes killed 118 workers “granting the government [of strike, are expected to come to a Vera Wang has a sparkly treat for her fans this spring: and intensified calls to revoke the Bangladesh] the benefit of doubt vote in June and said the estab- Be Jeweled, a fragrance exclusive to Kohl’s that will hit country’s trade benefits. has passed,” adding, “This peti- lishment of a “Better Works” pro- counters in late April. PAGE 6 The tragic fires at Tazreen tion has been open since 2007. gram by the International Labor Fashion Ltd. that killed 111 gar- During that time the government Organization is under way. This is the moment of truth for Italy and its beauty industry. ment workers in November, fol- of Bangladesh has not engaged in “We appreciate that the gov- Each is counting on a renewed Made in Italy campaign to ward lowed by another tragic fire at sustained and meaningful efforts ernment has taken measures off competition and restore vitality. PAGE 8 Smart Export Garment Ltd. that to address specific failures to af- since Tazreen, especially to killed seven women in January, ford the right of freedom of asso- follow up and investigate and Milan-based private equity Clessidra SGR has agreed to were a key focus of the hearing and ciation, the right to organize and monitor factories, but it would be buy a 70 percent stake in luxury jeweler and watchmaker have raised new concerns about bargain collectively and the right helpful in post-hearing submis- Buccellati Group for 80 million euros, or $102.6 at Bangladesh’s human and workers’ to acceptable conditions of work sion to learn more about whether current exchange. PAGE 11 rights record and placed its U.S. with respect minimum wages, there are cases in which actual trade benefits in jeopardy. The hours of work and occupational violations were found, fines im- on WWD.CoM U.S. Trade Representative’s office and safety health.” posed, which of those have been is reviewing whether to revoke Mahbub Ahmed, secretary pursued in the courts and wheth- EYE: Fashion photographer Elle Muliarchyk sees “Escapes or suspend duty-free trade ben- of Bangladesh’s Commerce er factories have been closed,” efits given to Bangladesh under the Ministry, outlined the steps the said William Jackson, deputy as- From Paradise,” her latest body of work, as her resurrection. Generalized System of Preferences, government has taken in the sistant USTR for GSP and chair For more, see WWD.com. a program that provides duty-free area of fire safety. He said, “We of the GSP subcommittee. benefits for about 4,800 products have just heard a number of is- Shafiul Islam, president CorreCtion from 131 designated countries. sues and concerns related to of the Bangladesh Garment “The GSP subcommittee [at worker rights, and the occupa- Manufacturers & Exporters Courtney Colavita is worldwide director, social media, USTR] believes that the lack of tional and fire safety situation Association, who also testified at at Gucci. The company name was incorrect in a story progress by the government of in Bangladesh, and I assure you the USTR hearing, said fire safety on page 8 of Men’s Week Wednesday. Bangladesh in addressing worker we have taken due note of all has “become a major concern.” A rights issues in the country war- of those. But this is such a com- measure he touted was the gov- To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is rants consideration of possible plex situation, based on circum- ernment’s approval of 532 acres [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. withdrawal, suspension or limi- stances and incidences that are of land that will be set up as a COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. tation of Bangladesh’s trade ben- not systematic or representative “Specialized Economic Zone” for VOLUME 205, NO. 64. FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two efits under GSP,” the agency said. of an economy-side situation in the apparel industry. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Any change to Bangladesh’s sta- Bangladesh. We have reason to “This is going to be a long-term Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, tus under GSP would require a de- believe we are taking the right solution to ensure safety and sus- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, termination by President Obama. steps and we are determined to tainability in this industry,” he and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Apparel, textile and footwear continue to do so in the future.” said. “Vulnerable factories” desig- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North imports are not eligible for GSP Ahmed touted a reduction in nated by a task force will be given Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. benefits and would not be affected the number of garment factory priority to relocate to the zone. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or directly by a negative USTR ruling, fires over the past four years. He He also said the BGMEA inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine but the ramifications of withdrawal said the number of fire incidents has implemented a fire-safety is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. of the benefits could further hurt has declined to 97 in 2012 from initiative, dubbed the “Crash You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt the country’s reputation and have 293 in 2009. However, according Program,” which will train gar- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request a chilling effect on orders by retail- to his government’s own data in ment factory officials and own- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at ers and brands in the country. his testimony at USTR offices, ers on fire safety, with a goal of www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that “It is inexcusable that in the the death toll rose. training 35,200 people. To date, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at 21st century factories in any coun- In 2009 there were two deaths, he said 3,500 people have been P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED try have been allowed to operate followed by 51 fatalities in 2010. trained under the program. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER with locked and blocked exits,” In 2012, the government re- “The Tazreen incident has UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR said Celeste Drake, policy spe- corded 111 deaths from one fire, shaken us up and it is a wake up DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A cialist for trade and international Tazreen. Ahmed said between call for the country,” said Islam. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w29a002a;9.indd 2 3/28/13 8:20 PM 03282013202806 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013 3 WWD.COM Marie-Hélène de Taillac Opens First U.S. Shop

— being revealed for the first each shop contains unique decor By RACHEL STRUGATZ time at the new shop — along elements specific to its location. with a pair of $4,640 American She describes the space as al- NEW YORK — “There is some- Flag star sequin earrings made most boudoirlike, but still con- thing about the necklace on the from gold, diamonds, sapphires temporary — and very French. skin,” Marie-Hélène de Taillac and spinel. In fact, the inspiration came from said, carefully hooking one of two private visits to Versailles her new pieces, a 22-karat gold — Marie Antoinette’s private La and diamond lace necklace, Meridienne Chambers, specifi- around her neck. cally. This translated to Baguès- The designer, who has split style wall lamps with rock crys- her time between Paris and tal parrots, mirrors, Madeline Jaipur, India since launch- Weinrib’s champagne-hued ing her namesake line in hand-knotted wool carpet 1996, is in town to open and a silver ceiling. her first boutique. The “I don’t enjoy travel- 270-square-foot shop, A necklace from ing and finding the same located at 20 East 69th Marie-Hélène thing in every city. I try Street, opens Saturday. de Taillac. to adapt to the city we’re It is de Taillac’s third in. In Tokyo, [the store] is freestanding door and more modern and the floor first in the United States, is white leather. It’s con- joining units that opened temporary with lacquer and in Tokyo and Paris in 2003 leather,” de Taillac said of and 2004, respectively. that shop, which was designed The Botticelli necklace, by Marc Newson. “In Paris we which retails for $36,845, is one kept a French feeling. It has a of de Taillac’s newest creations wood floor and a high ceiling.” De Taillac has worked with JOHN AQUINO She’s also designed a Gold The Gem Palace of Jaipur since The new boutique’s interior. Peacock Feather group born the inception of her company 17 from her daily morning swims years ago, and she is perhaps PHOTOS BY in Jaipur, where she would see best known for her briolette the most amount of pieces are the most striking peacocks. The necklaces fashioned from col- sold in Japan, the U.S. commands group is comprised of two pairs ored gemstones (a style once typi- the highest volume of sales. of earrings — the smaller size cally reserved for diamonds). She “It’s difficult to grow and contains Laguna-blue apatites maintains that every stone pass- maintain quality. I want a life — and the larger pair diamonds — es through her hands — even the [and] I won’t be inspired if all I do as well as an elaborate matching 46,000 carats of aquamarines that is make jewelry,” she said, add- collar that retails for $44,845. fill the Yves Klein glass table in ing: “When you do what you’re Standing inside the jewel box the center of the showroom, which meant to do, doors open easily.” of a shop, de Taillac explained took her a year to accumulate. De Taillac does want to enter that she wanted the store to The designer runs her com- two new categories: jewelry “mix the old and new.” The pany with the help of her three timepieces and books. Although same wallpaper, a custom-made sisters, Sophie, Gabrielle and she has yet to develop the for- powder-blue fabric stamped Victoire, and expresses scant mer, her first book is slated to with the brand’s gold logo (also desire to turn the collection into come out later this year. de Taillac’s family crest) adorns a mass brand. She is content “It’s not a guide, but my the walls in the store and the with her distribution — 48 doors view on how to wear jewelry. company’s showroom next door. worldwide in Asia, Europe and It has some practical and [then] Marie-Hélène de Taillac It’s also present in the brand’s the U.S. — and her own three some crazy information. Stones two other stores — even though stores. She notes that although Earrings from Marie-Hélène de Taillac. have certain powers,” she said.

Naeem Khan Talks Past, Future and First Lady Monika Chiang Taps her. When I turned to hand it to her, she ly going with Halston. Everybody was By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG said, ‘You’re Naeem Khan.’ Not a pretty doing everything.” Malinda Behrens moment. Here I am in a T-shirt, shorts The scene at Halston’s Olympic NEW YORK — Whether dishing about and my little sandals with an aluminum Tower headquarters weren’t exactly NEW YORK — Monika Chiang has his early days at Halston or more recent pan in my hands at the local Publix, and sedate. “High tea was really high tea — hired Malinda Behrens as president, ef- ones dressing Michelle Obama, Naeem I am the new designer for the First Lady we got stoned,” Khan said. (He also got fective immediately, the company said. Khan has a tendency to speak in the of the United States.” an indelible drawing lesson from Andy Behrens in 2011 joined Burch Creative present tense. Warhol.) “Within six months, Capital, Monika Chiang’s owner, as vice Although Khan’s sig- Naeem Khan I could draw better than president of brand development. Prior nature business is now in Halston,” Khan said. to that she was vice president of licens- its 10th year, he said his With distribution in more ing and new business development at achievements are a com- than 100 doors worldwide, Club Monaco. pilation of all his experi- Khan now has his two sons, Behrens replaces Andrea Hyde, ences over the years. During Zaheen and Shariq, working who has been acting president of a Q&A Wednesday night at for the company. His jewelry- Monika Chiang since the brand’s the Alliance Française with designer wife, Ranjana, also launch in November 2011. Hyde will Pamela Golbin, Khan spared runs her own business from continue to oversee the development no details. the West 36th Street offices. In of upcoming Burch Creative Capital The Indian-born design- regards to his Timeless label brands, including No. 9 Christopher, a er recalled seeing Michelle for HSN, the designer said he luxury lifestyle collection. Obama wearing one of his can sell 2,000 dresses on-air Behrens, who has more than 20 years gowns to the administration’s in two or three minutes. of experience in women’s contemporary first state dinner with the prime Interestingly, Khan does fashion, oversees all aspects of design, minister of India, Manmohan not foresee the Mumbai mar- production, sourcing, planning and lo- Singh, in 2009. “I was in Miami GEORGE ket growing as rapidly for gistics. She’s also to be in charge of mer- in the shower, which was this American designers, since it chandising and marketing, including open glass cube thing that I MICHAEL remains dominated by Indian developing new stores and growing the can see the TV from. When I BY ones. Conversely, Indian de- brand’s wholesale business in the U.S. saw the First Lady, I literally signers are not compelled to Behrens’ role also encompasses provid- grabbed a towel and stepped PHOTO take the risk and expense of ing the leadership to position Monika out soaking wet staring at the TV,” Khan He was surprised again by her sur- setting up shop in the U.S. (For more Chiang “at the forefront of the industry,” laughed. “Later I was watching CNN [to prise appearance at the Oscars in an- on Khan, see the story on page 12 on the company said. see his interview] and I see ‘Breaking other one of his gowns. Khan declined Lakme Fashion Week.) “Designers Behrens’ appointment comes at a News’ flash across the screen. It’s not as to elaborate on the politics of dressing are set in India. For them to come to critical time for Monika Chiang, which though the world is ending. She’s just FLOTUS, but he did say, “The First America to deal with store markups and has embarked on a plan to open stores wearing a dress.” Lady likes her shoulders; she loves her have a fashion show to make themselves in key U.S. cities and expand its whole- Khan was still chuckling Thanks- shoulders. When you’re designing, you relevant is super difficult,” Khan said. sale offerings domestically. The brand giving morning when he ran out to the have to give her what she likes.” As for what it takes to be successful will be growing internationally within a local supermarket for his wife to buy a Asked about the sex, drugs and alco- in the U.S., Khan said, “Well, you need a year in key markets including Asia, the larger turkey pan. “This woman behind hol at Studio 54, he said, “There was a lot of money. Everyone needs talent, but Middle East and Russia. me asked me to reach up and get one for lot of that. It was a crazy place, especial- a lot of money too.” — SHARON EDELSON 4 WWD friday, march 29, 2013

Sequential Buys Ellen Tracy and Caribbean Joe

{Continued from page one} have many different tools, wheth- on an equity basis, was a minority er equity, debt or a combination shareholder. His personal invest- thereof, in which to access or ment vehicle, Windsong Brands raise quickly versus the privately

LLC, and Hilco Consumer Capital held firms,” Sweedler explained. were the two investors that led Of the two brands, Ellen Tracy is the management team at Brand the bigger revenue producing one, Matters. and it has a strategic alliance with Under their stewardship, Brand Macy’s inc. that features a complete Matter’s operations included collection of better sportswear fo- owning the iP of’’ Ellen Tracy and cused on modern, related separates. Caribbean Joe and acting as li- Price points are about two-thirds censing agent for Carlos Falchi, less expensive than the former Cloudveil and Field and Stream. Ellen Tracy bridge line previously With the sale of the iP assets, sold in department stores. Jackets Brand Matter effectively ceases retail from $99 to $149, and pants to exist as an entity. The sale is from $50 to $99. The brand recently essentially an exit strategy for began international distribution. Brand Matter’s investors, although Caribbean Joe is an island- it is believed that many will elect inspired lifestyle brand with Sequential stock and become in- more than 10,000 retail points of vestors in the public firm. All Brand distribution. Matter staff will become Sequential The two brands are estimated to employees. Rick Platt, former pres- generate between $12 million and ident of Brand Matter, becomes $14 million in royalty revenues over the next 12 months. Shmidman said, “This is a re- ally strong base. Now we have both Now we have both critical mass and a robust platform with a great pool of lifestyle brand critical mass and licensees.” Some of the licensees for the a robust platform Ellen Tracy brand include LF USA for sportswear; G-iii Apparel Group Ltd. for outerwear and with a great pool dresses; Komar for intimates; Sole Creations for slippers; ClearVision of lifestyle brand Optical for optical and sunglasses, and Palm Beach Beauté for fra- licensees. grances. Caribbean Joe licensees include the Moret Group for wom- — Yehuda Shmidman, en’s and girls sportswear; Bernette Textile Co. for men’s and boys’ Sequential BrandS sportswear; Another Line for belts; NyAG for handbags and sun and group president, brand manage- skin care, and Starlight Accessories ment at Sequential, reporting to for sunglasses. Sequential chief executive officer According to Shmidman, “The yehuda Shmidman. game plan is to continue to acquire According to Sweedler, it made lifestyle global consumer brands sense for the two brands to become now that we have the team, the part of Sequential’s umbrella. base brands, great partnerships He said the brand-manage- and licensees.” ment model, which relies in Shmidman’s criteria are brands part on the acquisition of a set that are lifestyle in nature and number of brands,’’ works better have the ability to add product cat- using the public markets. “ you egories and channel diversity for have capital access that’s criti- geographic growth. Even better is cal to the growth of this type of when they are “trapped in under- enterprise. Firms that are well performing operating companies,” connected in the public markets he added. Dresses from Ellen Tracy on macys.com.

Ann’s Kay Krill Sees Pay Increase EBay Projects Strong Growth Also seeing their pay rise at Ann in 2012 EBAy iNC. iS BULLiSH on the next lion in 2012. EBay defined “enabled By EVAN CLARK were Brian Lynch, brand president of the three years, projecting revenues to commerce” volume as the total com- Ann Taylor division, whose total compensa- grow more than 50 percent to at least merce and payment volume of its KAy KRiLL, chief executive officer and tion rose 45.8 percent to $6.4 million, and $21.5 billion in 2015, from $14.1 bil- three business units. president of Ann inc., saw her total pay Gary Muto, brand president of the Loft di- lion in 2012. Donahoe said eBay’s mobile capa- rise 17.6 percent to $12.7 million last year. vision, whose compensation rose 55.2 per- “Led by mobile, a commerce revo- bilities across all operating systems The biggest chunk of Krill’s compensa- cent to $6.2 million. lution is under way,” eBay inc. presi- and devices are competitive advan- tion came in the form of cash Sears Holding Corp. dent and chief executive officer John tages and that in 2013, the company incentive pay, which totaled also weighed in with its Donahoe said. expects to generate $20 billion in $6.7 million. She also received executive compensation “Technology is creating a new mobile commerce and payments vol- stock and option awards that for the year, which public Web-enabled retail interface, a new ume. The company also expects com- were valued at a total of $4.5 companies report to the seamless, multiscreen commerce pound annual non-GAAP earnings million, although she might Securities and Exchange experience that connects consum- per share growth of 15 to 19 percent not realize that amount, given Commission ahead of their ers anytime, anywhere. This will from 2012 to 2015. Free cash flow is vesting schedules and stock annual meetings. expand shopping beyond conven- anticipated in excess of $11 billion price fluctuations. And Louis D’Ambrosio, tional store environments and e- over the three-year period. Last year, Krill’s pay of former chief executive of- commerce sites. How we shop is By 2015, Marketplaces is expected $10.8 million made her the ficer and president, saw being transformed, and eBay inc. to achieve revenues of $10.5 billion third-highest paid woman in his pay drop 86.9 percent intends to be a leader in this new to $11.5 billion, representing a 14 the U.S. fashion and retail to $1.3 million. This change commerce world.” percent compound annual growth world, according to WWD’s was mostly attributable to EBay is driving growth in its rate at the midpoint; PayPal sees rev- tally of 67 of the industry’s Kay Krill the lack of any stock awards core Marketplaces, PayPal and GSi enue growth of $9.5 billion to $10.5 top executives. She came in for the former ceo last year. Commerce divisions and leveraging billion, for a 22 percent compound behind Jackwyn Nemerov, in 2011, he received stock its commerce technologies, includ- annual growth rate at the midpoint, executive vice president at valued at $8 million. ing mobile, to “enable” new experi- and GSi forecasts $1.5 billion to $1.7 Ralph Lauren Corp., who made $12.1 mil- D’Ambrosio was replaced this fiscal year ences for consumers and retailers. billion in sales by 2015, represent- lion, and Carol Meyrowitz, chief executive by Edward S. Lampert, who controls the in 2015, the company expects to ing a 14 percent compound annual officer of The TJX Cos. inc., who made majority of the retailer’s stock and is tak- enable $300 billion worth of global growth rate at the midpoint. $11.1 million. ing a salary of $1. commerce, compared to $175 bil-  —DaviDMoin

w29a004a;10.indd 4 3/28/13 8:15 PM 03282013201603 BEAUTY SUMMIT 2013 INSIGHT & INNOVATION MAY 21-22//NEW YORK

LEONARD A. LAUDER LINDA WELLS BROOKE SHIELDS NANCY SNYDERMAN M.D. TINA S. ALSTER M.D. THE ESTÉE LAUDER ALLURE NBC NEWS WASHINGTON INSTITUTE OF COMPANIES INC. DERMATOLOGIC LASER SURGERY

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS INCLUDE: ORNELLA BARRA, ALLIANCE BOOTS FANG HUA, SHANGHAI JAHWA UNITED CO. LTD. DREW BARRYMORE, FLOWER ALIZA JABÈS, NUXE GROUP MARLA MALCOLM BECK, BLUE MERCURY CORRINE JACQUES, RIVE GAUCHE GINA BOSWELL, UNILEVER BERTRAND THOMAS, CAUDALIE CLAIRE CHAMBERS, JOURNELLE MATHILDE THOMAS, CAUDALIE IAN GINSBERG, C.O. BIGELOW PETRA TUCKER MOSS, FLOWER JULIA GOLDIN, REVLON CHRISTOPHER WEST, MARVIN TRAUB ASSOCIATES DEB HENRETTA, P&G BEAUTY & GROOMING WENDY ZOMNIR, URBAN DECAY

WWD.COM/BEAUTYSUMMIT TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425

SPONSORED BY 6 WWD Friday, March 29, 2013 beauty Bare Escentuals’ Whirlwind Year: A New Facet for Vera Wang’s Empire a drydown of radiant silvanone, cos- New Look, More Color, Bigger Reach By Julie nauGhton mone musks, pink sugar crystals and kitchen table,” said cowell. “when they australian sandalwood. By Rachel BRown are getting their makeup done, customers VeRa wanG has a sparkly treat for eaux de parfum in three sizes — 1 oz. and Molly PRioR can not only interact with beauty ambas- her fans this spring: Be Jeweled, the for $45, 1.7 oz. for $52 and 2.5 oz. for $68 sadors, but also each other and have a Kohl’s exclusive scent that will hit — will be offered. the bottle, which lives BaRe escentuals inc. sees a world girlfriend experience.” counters in late april. up to its name with a faceted shape evok- where more of its mineral-based beauty there are testers galore, and also im- “Jewels are my middle name,” the ing a gem and a neck and cap adorned products are sold in more places and to a ages and cheeky messages that imbue designer told wwD. “i have been with purple, pink and champagne stones, wider audience. the brand’s personality into the store. so obsessed with jewelry forever — was designed by wilhelm liden with Jon the shiseido-owned beauty brand has For instance, there’s a graphic picture of on the runway and for myself. and i Dinapoli, coty’s creative director. an ambitious priority list for this year Blodgett and the slogan, “Be a Force of love the idea of Be Jeweled; it brings advertising, shot by carter smith, that includes a broader array of color Beauty,” mounted in bold pink. that romantic notion of getting ready. will begin running in May weeklies cosmetics, a store redesign and interna- the storefront has been stripped of ar- Brides bejewel themselves; indian and June fashion, beauty and lifestyle tional expansion and a mobile tour that’s chitectural elements that, while perhaps women are be- magazines. the vi- a turbo-charged version of founder leslie pretty, prevented customers from seeing decked with their sual is of a group of Blodgett’s bus expeditions of years past. directly into the store. now, it’s basically saris, royalty has girls headed out on over the past few years, the company only glass. “we wanted to open the whole tiaras. there’s the town. has put a greater focus on expanding its thing up and signal that things are evolv- something about “Kohl’s is very assortment beyond its hero product, loose ing. we are changing and are proud of the jewelry that rep- excited to launch mineral foundation. that effort has result- change,” said Michelle Boudreau, senior resents a ritual Be Jeweled, the ed in the introduction of solid foundations, director of visual merchandising and where you will be- first exclusive fra- blushes, bronzers and eye shadows under store design at Bare escentuals. come dazzling.” grance from Vera the Ready franchise, as well as a skin care in each of the last three years, cowell another influ- wang that will be range under the BareMinerals moniker. in said there have been double-digit increas- ence, she noted, is available only at May, the company will heavily emphasize es in same-store sales. “we have a really the energy and ex- Kohl’s department the lip category with the introduction of healthy average transaction value that has citement of a group stores,” said Peggy BareMinerals’ Marvelous Moxie, a 42-shade been growing every year,” he said. cowell of girlfriends head- eskenasi, senior collection of lipsticks, liners ed out for a night executive vice pres- and glosses. shade names of partying. ident of product nod to the brand’s girl-power in addition to development for point of view, and include her ready-to-wear Kohl’s. “the launch Finish First lipstick for $18, business, wang has of this fragrance Maverick lip gloss for $18 and built an empire builds upon our ex- amped lip liner for $15. at Kohl’s with her isting partnership “For me, it’s about taking simply Vera col- The Be Jeweled ad. with Vera wang and high-performance mineral lection. it includes we are looking for- products into other catego- clothing, accessories, sleepwear, shoes, ward to providing customers with yet ries,” said simon cowell, jewelry, home and color cosmetics. another exclusive product from one of Bare escentuals’ chief exec- “we’ve carefully built a lifestyle brand the most coveted and respected design- utive officer. he noted that at Kohl’s, and this is right in line with ers in the industry.” Kohl’s currently while foundation makes up what we’re doing there,” added wang. operates 1,146 stores in the u.s. the bulk of sales, the brand “we’re not going to date anyone, but wang launched her first fragrance, has long had a sizeable this scent will skew to a youthful sense referred to as signature, in 2002. Be eye color business. lip is a of romance and fun.” Jeweled is the sixth major launch for newer frontier. “lip was the lori singer, group vice president the brand; counting all limited-edition next category they wanted of global marketing at coty Prestige, scents and flankers, wang has pro- to try from us,” said cowell. noted that Be Jeweled is a radiant duced 16 scents altogether. A look at the redesigned BareMinerals store. Bare escentuals’ expan- fruity floral created with Givaudan’s while executives declined comment sion beyond loose formulas into solids said figuring out how to adapt the new de- yann Vasnier. it has top notes of pome- on projected sales, industry sources have attracted new users to the brand sign to department store counters will be granate, red current and champagne estimated that the scent would do and prompted loyalists to buy more, the company’s next project. accord, a heart of passion fruit extract, about $25 million at retail in its first said cowell. it’s also fueling the brand’s the company continues to expand the pink honeysuckle and pink peony, and year on counter. growth. “we’ve outpaced prestige growth footprint of its stand-alone stores interna- by almost double for the past three years,” tionally. last year, it opened five boutiques said cowell, referring to the brand’s color in Brazil and this year it plans to open business. Prestige beauty sales gained 7 an additional nine units there (which in- BHV Rivoli Overhauls and Expands Be auty Department percent last year, according to the nPD cludes three mall kiosks), making the coun- Group, which would put Bare escentuals try the company’s largest market for stand- By alex wynne growth rate at roughly 10 to 15 percent. alone stores, said cowell. the brand also is the company aims to herald the chang- sold in sephora stores in Brazil. as a point PaRis — BhV Rivoli is revamping and es across its brand with a new store con- of comparison, there are five BareMinerals expanding its beauty department as the cept designed by Pompei a.D. in new stores in the u.K. with another planned to latest stage in the department store’s york, which is now visible at its location open this year. the company currently op- two-year, multimillion euro renovation. at the westfield Valley Fair shopping cen- erates a total of 232 boutiques, including the store is expanding the space ter in santa clara, calif. its 11 stores outside the u.s. to span 10,700 square feet on the this year, the company will roll out the in the u.s., Bare escentuals plans to hit ground floor, from 7,500 previously, design to seven more locations, including the road. the mobile “Go Bare” tour spot- adding an array of new brands and novi, Mich., columbia, s.c., schaumburg, lighting loose and pressed foundations services including a clarins treat- ill., syracuse, n.y., Berkeley, calif., and will begin the weekend of the nike women ment room, Kure Bazaar nail bar and two in Bloomington, Minn. half Marathon in washington, D.c., which the Parfums d’exception space for the remodeled store is meant to foster will take place on april 28, and then travel niche fragrances. a friendly environment, and the beauty to new york city, chicago, las Vegas, los “it’s going to be the biggest perfum- bar has been turned into the communal angeles and san Francisco. the set-up will ery in the Marais,” said alexandre center of the store. “the inspiration was a mimic the new store design with a clean liot, who was named director of white, bright environment. a BhV in February after 16 years in twitter-activated vending ma- various posts within Groupe Galeries chine will be on site. to ac- lafayette, which owns BhV. tivate the machine, visitors the store’s location, on the edge of tweet their favorite guilty the trendy Marais district, is a key part indulgence using the hashtag of the renovation. “it is designed to be A view of the new BHV beauty department. #gobare at BareMinerals. the continuation of a walk through the once they do, the machine Marais, where customers can wander scaffolding that currently covers will release a mystery box con- and discover products,” he said. “we the front of the store is expected to no

taining either a BareMinerals I want the store to be integrated into the be removed by april, and it will be re- product or a gift certificate for u quarter, with the codes of the Marais. named BhV Marais in september. a like-minded retailer in that AQ it is the store for Parisians.” Deciding how to overhaul the insti-

market. in a first for the brand, John the revamp is part of an ongoing tution, best known for having the big- selling will also take place on site overhaul of the institution — the only gest selection of home wares and Diy

with Ready eyeshadow 2.0 offered hoto by department store in the east of Paris goods in Paris and with a faithful fol- P as a gift with purchase. Blodgett is since la samaritaine closed in 2005 — lowing in the capital, was the subject Select items from the expected to appear at several key following the unveiling of its shoe de- of round-table discussions with cus-

Marvelous Moxie range. events along the way. Product partment in october. tomers, liot said, as it was important

w29a006(7)a;10.indd 6 3/28/13 7:54 PM 03282013195516 WWD Friday, March 29, 2013 7 WWD.COM The Olfactive Studio lineup. Mass Retailers Look to Social Media for Niche Teen Brands new yoRK — teens and their allen ash, vice president of love of social media are driv- almar sales company, a mar- ing changes to the beauty as- keter of value beauty prod- A New Facet for Vera Wang’s Empire sortment in the mass market. ucts, agreed that younger con- small beauty companies are sumers learn about products increasingly grabbing the at- from other avenues. “they tention of younger consumers are savvy, so ads don’t impress by using online marketing ve- them as much and they also hicles, a move that allows them like to buy at prices they feel to better compete with major comfortable with or that their powerhouses. parents are willing to spend.” Photo Finish in a Bottle for Olfactive Studio “social media enables “they aren’t reading news- pate in the backstage of fragrance production,” said brands that are more relevant papers, and they forward By Belisa silVa Verleure. the project drew 5,000 participants. “when [to shoppers] to do well rather through commercials online i saw the response, i realized i could become a real than if you just spend mil- or on DVRs,” said David Pina, FoR céline VeRleuRe, founder of olfactive brand,” said Verleure, who officially launched her lions,” said Joey shamah, the vice president creative direc- studio, a perfume bottle and a camera lens have Paris-based brand in september 2011. cofounder of e.l. F. cosmetics, tor for instyle Product Group. a lot in common. the initial experiment yielded olfactive studio’s which test-markets products on instead of directing what- her brand, which she described as a bridge first three fragrances — autoportrait, meant as a re- its web site before rolling them ever funds he can into adver- between the worlds of contemporary photography flection of self; still life, a nod to “living sculptures,” out to retail. “spending millions tising, Jesse’s Girl president and perfumery, will make its u.s. debut on april and chambre noire, inspired by darkness. lumiére doesn’t make you relevant,” he Jesse lawrence invites blog- 8 in Bergdorf Goodman and other specialty retail- Blanche, a milky-hued juice meant to exude both said. e.l. F. cosmetics, which gers to his headquarters to ers. each scent in the line, which Verleure refers warmth and coldness, was added in June 2012.e ach launched on the internet, now shoot videos that are triggered to as a “perfumer’s proof,” is inspired by a photo- olfactive studio scent, priced at $195 for 3.4 oz. and commands end caps at target. on QR codes so girls can see graph and meant to interpret the overall emotional $145 for 1.7 oz., is packaged with a postcard-size Retailers said shoppers are how to use the products. imprint left by the art. picture of the photo that in- asking for more value items in addition to social media, Distributed in north spired it. the fragrance fla- and smaller brands that have celebrities also sway young america by KVD nyc inc, con is meant to resemble a gained awareness via social women’s spending habits. that industry sources estimate Polaroid picture, and the cap, media. Rite aid has responded helps explains why Burt’s olfactive studio’s increased a lens. Verleure, also olfactive by carving out a four-foot sec- Bees tapped singer carly Rae presence — which will in- studio’s art director, begins tion for the youtube-fueled cos- Jepsen to front Güd’s new clude a u.s. e-commerce each new fragrance with a metics brand Jesse’s Girl, and Red Ruby Groovy products, site, at olfactivestudious.com, name, chosen with help from allotting promotional space to and [heart] calgon’s decision and entry into canada — will the digital community. “i then Pretty woman, a niche line with have actress sarah hyland double the brand’s sales to $2 go look for the best picture products such as a textured nail represent the youth-oriented million this year. it is current- to really fit the name,” said finish called Pearl nails. bath and body line. similarly, ly available in 26 countries, Verleure, who scouts galleries walgreens’ push in alter- wet ‘n’ wild got a huge boost with Germany, Russia and and art shows for inspiration. native designer fragrances is from its ties with Fergie. and the Middle east accounting Flashback by Laurent Segretier. “once i find something, i con- from instyle, a niche company just this week, Kiss Products for the bulk of the business. tact the photographer and ask that is one of the top mass fra- named teen actress alli “Perfumers often work with words when de- if i can use their piece.” she then arms the perfumer grance companies, according simpson as its brand ambassa- veloping a fragrance, while photography evokes with the inspiration shot for a corresponding juice. dor for imPRess nails. emotions, which is a key point of difference for olfactive studio’s newest scent, Flashback, is the internet is creating olfactive studio,” said Verleure. “Great photogra- fifth in the lineup, and its introduction will co- critical cyber celebrities, as well. phy is inspirational, and the perfumers enjoy work- incide with the brand’s u.s. launch. the juice, lawrence teamed up with ing in this different creative style.” imagined by Firmenich’s olivier cresp, interprets mass Julie Gutierrez, a video blog- Verleure’s goal is to launch one scent a year a photo by French media artist laurent segretier ger with more than 100,000 fol- and continue to expand geographically, with plans that explores the past’s effect on the present. a by Faye brookman lowers, for a nail line called to enter Japan’s isetan department store and blend of tart, green rhubarb and a drydown of JulieG, which is sold exclu- other retailers throughout asia by 2014. vetiver, cedar and musks, the scent is designed to women’s fragrance rankings sively at Rite aid. her video Verleure said her company — which began as an to reflect the mind’s ability to transform time. from symphony iRi Group. introducing new Frosted Gum online crowdsourcing project called “Blog for the fra- Marketing for olfactive studio is centered around younger consumers, weaned Drops polish has more than grance that doesn’t (yet) exist!” — “started like an art- the digital space, namely social media, a fitting on turning to the web for in- 50,000 views to date. lawrence ist project.” on the site, Verleure asked the Facebook choice given its beginnings, said Verleure. “we formation, are credited with said JulieG is one of the top- community to offer proposals for new niche scents — have 20,000 fans who are writing a lot and really helping drive a 3.44 percent in- selling nail brands at Rite aid. including details such as fragrance names, preferred passionate [about the brand] because they partici- crease in facial cosmetics sales lessons have been learned notes and packaging. “i wanted people to partici- pated in its creation too. they are linked to it.” and an astounding 17.46 per- about how to market to teens cent rise in nail volume for the without being tacky. “we are 52-week period ended Dec. 30, trying to do colors and trend the new beauty department, Kiehl’s and aesop will be 2012, according to iRi. the nPD merchandise that is high-end BHV Rivoli Overhauls and Expands Be auty Department which should be completed in added in skin care and essie in Group inc. noticed an uptick in and not gimmicky like the cell time for an inaugural event on nail color. a natural and organic teen spending last summer after phones [of years ago] where you May 22 that will be open to all, section will feature products from a period of stabilization: teens opened them and saw the col- reveals original features like ex- erborian, Korres and absolution. were shelling out an average of ors,” said lawrence, referring posed cast-iron pillars. as well as a conventional $12.50 last July, up $1.50 from to teen products in years past. the aisles are wider, giving perfumery offer, the store will the same month tracked in 2009. another case in point is more space, with a pale marble feature high-end lines including Make no mistake, products Jackie Fame/Fame Body, a floor bordered with a patterned la collection Privée christian from l’oréal, cover Girl, Revlon brand created by two broth- frieze to accentuate the feeling Dior, les exclusifs de chanel and Maybelline continue to hold ers who launched their own of wandering through the de- and Guerlain’s les collections the top-selling spots in all color web site when their par- partment like a neighborhood, exclusifs de Parfumeur. the cosmetics categories, according ents wouldn’t allow them on while elements of walls and Parfums d’exception space, to iRi. to the big players’ credit, Facebook. the company said it storage are adorned in stone meanwhile, will carry niche they responded to the teen fren- is in talks with four big retail- blocks, pale wood or tiles simi- lines like serge lutens, annick zy too, as evidenced by Procter ers for its line of personal care lar to those of the Paris Metro. Goutal, l’artisan Parfumeur and & Gamble co.’s launch of olay products promoted on the site. Behind the department’s acqua di Parma. Fresh effects, Maybelline eye while online drives shop- main cash register, a backlit wall liot said he is more than happy studio color tattoo 24hR cream pers to unknown brands, the built of white and pink jars remi- with results since certain elements Gel shadow and Revlon nail art economy is doing its share, too. niscent of beauty creams spells of the floor’s revamp were un- Moon candy. “consumers are making do with out the word “Caisse” (“cashier” veiled in February, although work But smaller, nimble brands less, and that includes buying in english) in giant capitals. is continuing and many stands do with an online presence are lower-priced cosmetics,” said of the 100 brands on offer, not yet have their final furnishings. increasingly piquing consum- industry observer allan Mottus. many are new, including spaces “our objective is to increase ers’ interest. charles yu, vice president of for Guerlain and crème de la beauty sales by 10 percent in “we have people com- sales for Beauty 21, said lower- A view of the new BHV beauty department. Mer, which with its launch there 2013,” he revealed. “Given the ing in asking for a brand they priced cosmetics not only keep opens its fifth door in the French encouraging results so far, that saw on youtube, Pinterest or consumers coming to stores but for the operator to take into ac- capital and its first in the Marais. is a realistic estimate despite instagram,” said a buyer for a also have the potential to build count the wishes of the clientele. with the clarins treatment the economic climate.” drugstore chain who asked not multiple sales. “consumers the result was to make the cabin — which features a pad- he declined to elaborate fur- to be named. “we have to at want affordable products that store more hip, in keeping with ded leather bed, walk-in shower ther, but according to industry least look into those brands.” allow them to enter catego- the Marais, a theme that will be and overhead lighting designed sources, beauty represents ap- a brand’s most difficult chal- ries they haven’t tried before. carried throughout as the reno- to look like a cloudy blue sky proximately 8 percent of BhV lenge three years ago was to get it affords them the chance to vation continues. and the store’s first nail bar — Rivoli’s sales, which were ap- a store test. now the consumer experiment with different pal- “we should be able to have a BhV is also entering beauty ser- proximately 392 million euros in is in charge, asking retailers for ettes. they also pick up mul- good feel of what the new BhV vices for the first time. a make- 2010, or $514.9 million at average brands they want. “these [so- tiple shades. People are more will be like by the end of this up artist is on hand to offer tips exchange for the period, the last cial media] outlets create pent- budget conscious with their year,” liot said. and makeovers. for which data was available. up demand,” said shamah. hard-earned money.”

w29a006(7)a;10.indd 7 3/28/13 7:54 PM 03282013195516 8 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013 FOR MORE IMAGES Duccio AND COVERAGE, SEE Campagnoli WWD.com/ beauty beauty-industry-news. Cosmoprof Tests Industry’s Fate

‘Is it important to you to meet such pro- create a new program with Vogue Italia By CYNTHIA MARTENS fessionals?’” continued Campagnoli, for a shopping night on March 9 to build and PETE BORN during a panel discussion hosted by the consumer awareness and buzz around Accademia del Profumo on March 8. beauty. More than 200 stores remained BOLOGNA, Italy — This is the moment At his stand, amid other nail and hair open until 10 p.m. in Bologna and offered of truth for Italy and its beauty industry. brands that cater to salon industry pro- special merchandise. Each is counting on a renewed Made in fessionals, George Schaeffer, founder SoGeCos also brought 155 retail- Italy campaign to ward off competition and chief executive officer of OPI, talked ers and distributors to the fair, ranging and restore vitality. passionately about his relationship to from Jennifer Miles, senior buyer of “All companies in Italy must invest more customers in that segment at the fair. beauty and fragrance for Henri Bendel, in the development of exports,” said Fabio He clearly answered Campagnoli’s to three executives from The Shopping Rossello, president of Unipro, the Italian rhetorical question. “I’d like the big guys Channel in Canada to Lotty Eisenband association of cosmetics companies. to come back,” said Schaeffer, referring de Eidelman, commercial vice president The troubles of the Italian economy to salon brands from the likes of L’Oréal of Colombia’s Fedco. run parallel to the challenges facing and Wella. “I don’t look at it as competi- One retailer, speaking not for attribu- the Cosmoprof trade show, which has tion; I think it complements the show.” tion, complained that it can be difficult to been losing cachet through the exodus of He called for a return to the fair, say- figure out what merchandise is in which major international brands. ing it’s a sign of respect and giving back building. She added that the sheer acre- The Cosmoprof fair and its to the trade. age of product can be overwhelming. Cosmopack sibling ran from March 7 to “What this show does for me is I “I think there’s too much square foot- March 11 here. meet the international consumer,” con- age,” the executive said. PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY Rossello was responding to mixed tinued Schaeffer. “You get the pulse of “It’s huge, huge,” said Miles, of the figures that were unveiled by Unipro at the industry.” fair. “The value for me is I’m always look- Alex Naar Valenzuela, vice president of Cosmoprof, on March 8. Domestic con- A second for that vote came from ing for interesting brands that I’m not IBD Corp. sumption of beauty products dropped 1.8 Davide Bollati, president and chairman going to find in the U.S. They’re not going “It’s going to have growth at least in percent in 2012 for the first time in at least of Davines. “We are loyal and consis- to come knocking at my door.” the next five to seven years,” he said. five years, while exports jumped 7 percent. tent,” he said of his company’s perennial Among the labels Miles pointed out The best Latin American beauty mar- This year promises to bring more of kets are Colombia, Venezuela, Mexico, the same. Unipro forecasts there will be Ecuador, Peru, Panama and Chile, a further decline in domestic consump- agreed Naar; Mario Naar, IBD Corp’s tion and that the sector’s revenues will commercial director, and Fabio Ernesto remain bolstered by business abroad. Buitrago Buitrago, commercial director In an interview, Rossello asserted that of merchandise at Naissant. A less rosy the Italian cosmetics industry invests more assessment was given by Rolf van Volen, in research and development than other general manager of Beauty District, who industries (6 percent to 8 percent of sales, works in the highly insular salon world versus 4 percent for the Italian average). and said he’s been coming to Cosmoprof And he further declared that the country for many years. boasts a trade surplus of 1.24 billion euros, “I find it not a very good fair because of or $1.59 billion at current exchange. the downgrade of brands,” he explained. Currently, 31.6 percent of Italy’s beau- “Most innovative products you find ty revenues — 2.86 billion euros, or $3.66 through your own network of distributors. billion — come from abroad. Domestic Also seen during the fair in Bologna consumption last year was 9.6 billion were José Barra, senior vice president, euros, or $12.67 billion at average ex- merchandising, of health and beauty at change for the period. Target, with his merchandising and buy- “The market has changed; we have ing team; Ido Leffler, cofounder of Yes to look to high-quality products at mass- To Inc.; Katia Beauchamp, cofounder of market prices,” said Duccio Campagnoli, Birchbox, and Ingrid Jackel of Physicians president of Bologna Fiere and SoGeCos, Formula. One figure striving to make the which organizes Cosmoprof. A crowd watches a demonstration at fair more productive for the companies is He noted that an “oligarchy” of global FOR MORE COVERAGE FROM MILAN G The Body Art Professional’s booth. Tony Michalski, senior international trade brands has decided the fair no longer AND BOLOGNA SEE WWD.COM: specialist at the U.S. Commercial Service, meets its needs, while the show orga- ■ who has been working as a matchmaker nizers are trying to attract a new, more Beauty Retailers and Manufacturers was Überlâsh, a lash-growing product. between buyers and American brands. democratic group — of “artisans” and Defy Italian Downturn A number of retailers mentioned that For the first time, during this Cosmoprof ■ “professionals” producing mass — and Cosmoprof Shows a New Side Cosmoprof ’s more “democratic” lineup, session, he helped bring buyers from 11 midmarket products. ■ Italian Beauty Execs Eye Exports consisting of a sea of merchandise, is EU countries to the show. Campagnoli said the Cosmoprof in ■ Suppliers Add Spark to Cosmoprof more conducive to spotting trends than “There’s definitely business being Bologna has been recast. “This is a ■ Intercos Adapts To Changing World the usual phalanx of corporate stands. done here,” he said. “Buyers appreciate meeting point between the Asian and ■ Picking Winners at Cosmoprof But perhaps there’s too much of a good the ability to come to the show and the Middle Eastern and the European mar- ■ Roberto Martone: From Fragrance thing. “Maybe there needs to be a beauty assurance that they have a point person.” ket,” he explained. Maker to Inn Keeper curator,” said Eisenband de Eidelman. At least one American brand, at He undoubtedly received some com- WWD.COM/BEAUTY-INDUSTRY-NEWS. “If I want to look for articles for the mass Cosmoprof for the first time, drew a lath- fort from the fair’s attendance numbers. market, this is probably the right fair.” er of attention by demonstrating its glit- Cosmoprof boasted a 14 percent on-year Executives from The Shopping tery body-decorating technique. G The increase of total visitors this session to appearance at Cosmoprof. “I think our Channel had found items from various Body Art Professional, which offers 52 193,842, driven in part by a 22 percent coherence is paying off.” product categories, including skin care, stencils used to produce jeweled tattoo jump in non-Italian attendees to 48,823. Davines is fine-tuning its international self-tanner and makeup. effects, had two models displaying their There was a 3 percent rise in the num- distribution, and its sales increased 13 “From our appointments and walking glued-on finery. There was a necklace, ber of exhibitors present to 2,390, with percent to 61 million euros, or $80.51 mil- the show, we’ve probably come away with for instance, and a shimmering exotic Italy the most represented, with 666; lion, in 2012. five brands that will come to fruition,” bird applied to one’s back. China, with 272, and France, with 161. Laura Zaccagnini, director of inter- said Wendy Pos-Cerveira, merchandise The process was being explained to The U.S., Germany and Spain followed national affairs at SoGeCos, weighed in manager health and beauty for the chan- an audience of about 40 people. closely behind. Twenty-four national col- on the widespread belief that the luxury nel, who added the products needed to “Consistently we’re getting people,” lectives attended the fair. perfumery segment’s representation had tell a story for television. said Macky Samaco, president of the Turning to market opportuni- faded away at the show. Buyers were also scanning the mer- company that sells its products to sa- ties, Rossello had pinpointed Turkey “We still have it,” she said, adding it is chandise, searching for newness. lons. He added the stand has attracted as a prime export opportunity, and no longer about high prestige, but rather “We’re looking for trends we can feel so many distributors that there are two Campagnoli went one step further in sug- medium-priced and niche products “based and see; we’re always looking for the or three candidates from each market G gesting Cosmoprof could put a show there. on the disposable income of consumers.” newest products on the market,” said The Body Art Professional wants to enter, “Turkey, as a manufacturing country, Luciano Bertinelli, ceo of Ferragamo Nicolina Martucci, vice president of including Germany, Switzerland, else- can become another important regional Parfums and president of the Accademia sales and marketing at Distribution Iris. where in Europe and the Middle East. hub,” added Campagnoli. del Profumo, did not mince words. He Three distributors from Latin “At the least [Cosmoprof] met expecta- Cosmoprof would also like to expand said that the luxury perfumery segment America were after fragrance and natu- tions, but I think we can improve,” said its reach to Brazil, and India “as soon as does not exist at Cosmoprof right now, ral and organic products at good value. Samaco, who wistfully speculated he we have the opportunity,” he said. but “there has been a step forward com- They said in the region there’s no middle might be happier in the nail pavilion, But problems with the Bologna show pared to last year, and we as a selective class, so everything has to be either mass which was the most high-energy, traffic- remain, principally what many manufac- perfumery brand would like to partici- market or premium, with Italian prod- heavy part of the fair. “I would like to try turers view as a lack of a prestige per- pate next year.” ucts perceived as luxurious. that side. On this one we can certainly fumery element. One move SoGeCos made this year to Organic and natural items are still a get distributors, but on that one we can “To selective perfumers I would ask: restore the relevance of the fair was to big business in the region, according to get the feel of consumers.” ESCAPES FROM PARADISE: Elle Muliarchyk in black and white. WWD STYLE PAGE 11 MEMO PAD

DIGITAL THINKING: Don’t count out traditional media companies. That’s one of the many conclusions from a panel discussion on “M&A in Digital Media and Technology: 2013 & Beyond.” The panel was hosted by ACG New York Inc., the New York chapter of the Association for Corporate Growth. Lloyd Rothenberg, a partner at the law firm Loeb & Loeb, moderated, and the panelists included Ron Shah, vice president, Stripes Group; Paul Cianciolo, vice president, FirstMark Capital; Jeffrey Gross, vice president, Allegiance Capital Corp., and Melissa Stepanis, managing director, Silicon Valley Bank. According to Shah, traditional media firms such as Gannett, Hearst and Condé Nast are approaching the shift in digital media differently, which is impacting what they are interested in, in terms of mergers and acquisitions. “Each one has its own expertise. They are moving their historical assets [in each’s own way] to build an infrastructure to use technology that serves their customers,” Shah said. Years ago, during the dot-com craze, many retailers waited and watched and learned before acting. Gross said traditional media firms are now doing the same thing. On the early-stage investing side, Cianciolo noted that two to three years ago not many chief marketing officers were all that familiar with online advertising, but that consumers are now forcing companies to know about content marketing. “They now have to engage consumers with interesting content,” the early-stage venture capitalist said. Stepanis said she’s noticed that in the last five years, particularly with the technological sophistication of cloud storage, it’s “cheaper” to Whistle start up a company with a lower investment level than before. She also pointed to “incubators and seed schools” that help the new firms raise less than $1 million and gain some traction. They also don’t have to be “home runs” in terms of investment returns, and many don’t need to formally raise Series A funding, Stop she noted. That also means mergers and acquisitions don’t necessarily translate into high-valuation deals. In M&A activity in 2012, “Ninety percent of the companies acquired were [purchased at] LONDON — Currently under $50 million,” according to Cianciolo. Cianciolo said traditional media firms facing winding their way the build-or-buy question are really deciding through Europe, whether to “change the DNA of the company and change direction [organically] or be Proenza Schouler’s Jack acquisitive and change the DNA that way.” He concluded that so far it’s been the latter because McCollough and Lazaro acquisitions are far more palatable. “It’s difficult Hernandez made time for to cannibalize your own business,” he explained. Shah told attendees, “Advertisers are less Net-a-porter hosted dinner comfortable buying media without a measurable [return on investment].” While before it was OK in their honor, which drew to buy via a magazine budget, chief marketing a flock of fans including officers today are becoming focused on online marketing. He explained that older media tools Freida Pinto. For more, that “can’t show ROI see the media dollars going away.” see page 10. For Gross, the capital markets can present the greatest challenge for digital media companies. That’s because investors need to look at how quickly the market is changing and whether valuations are based on sustainable trends. As for predictions, Cianciolo said some media firms depend on third-party consumer data, which could be “trouble in the next couple of years.” That’s because the ability to use that data could change over time, he cautioned. Shah said that while some firms think it’s good that consumers watching a television show can buy an item of apparel that an actor or actress is wearing, he thinks the better vehicle is a “Shazam-type” option through which a user can PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS find the item later on to buy so the experience of watching the show “doesn’t get interrupted.” — VICKI M. YOUNG 10 WWD friday, march 29, 2013 Vampires, Aliens and Mermaids: Oh My! Young adult author Stephenie Meyer played a large part in making vampires into an inescapable cultural trope with the incredibly successful (and bankable) “twilight” series. With the film adaptation of her follow- For more photos, see up “the Host,” a sci-fi thriller about alien body snatchers WWD.com/eye. opening this week, the world will find out if she can do the same with extraterrestrials. If that doesn’t quite pan out, Meyer still has plenty of material to work with. “Someday I’d really like to get to my mermaids,” the author said Wednesday at Max Irons the Cinema Society and Jaeger-leCoultre- in Gucci. hosted premiere of “the Host” at the tribeca grand Hotel in new York. “and there’s some ghost stuff and time travel. at Rachel some point, I want to hit everything.” Uchitel despite her ambitions, Meyer is still struggling to come to grips with her newfound influence: “In the ‘Sims Supernatural,’ if the vampires drink a potion they sparkle. I was like, ‘oh my gosh, Saoirse Ronan in I affected this game that I played before I Proenza Schouler. started writing. How bizarre is that?’” the cast of “the Host,” meanwhile, spent their red carpet time contemplating less earth-bound matters. Stephenie Meyer “We’re not the only form of life,” said Diane Kruger, who plays the movie’s villain. “I think there must be creatures who are undiscovered out there. Something that really pulls off white pants,” said the film’s lead, Saoirse Ronan, grinning as she referred to the pantsuit Kruger wears throughout. Ronan, who does two american accents Sami for the film, spoke in her typical Irish Gayle brogue. “I love how she says ‘Eem, tanks,’ instead of ‘um, thanks,’” said costar Lee Hardee. “I’m like, ‘aw! Say it again!’” Max Irons also had to adopt an american accent for the movie. “I find it quite difficult,” he said. “I have to sit in front of a mirror doing ridiculous things with my mouth trying to get it right.” afterward, the cast and guests headed

to Jimmy at the James Hotel. the crowd ichner pressed together drinking Vikingfjord e

cocktails named “the Wanderer” and teve s

“the Seeker” after aliens in the film. now eye Diane Kruger in Chanel that’s influence. with Joshua Jackson. Raeden Greer  —ALISONMANEY photos by

Young Americans

“I Had tHE HEadpHonES on and I just got lost in the music,” Jack McCollough said after visiting the new david Bowie retrospective at the Victoria & albert Museum in london. “You’re going through the show and all of a sudden a song comes on, and you forget everything.” McCollough and his partner Lazaro Hernandez, the design duo behind proenza Schouler, took in the Bowie show on a whistle-stop tour of Europe that will also see them visiting paris and Milan before Lazaro Hernandez and returning to new York. Before landing in Jack McCollough london — where net-a-porter hosted a dinner in their honor on tuesday night — they were on holiday in Mexico. “and we weren’t eating tacos and drinking margaritas — we were actually drinking green juice,” McCollough said of their detox holiday. guests at the dinner at 34 in Mayfair included Freida Pinto, Maggie Cheung, Tiphaine and Dinos Chapman, Jacquetta Wheeler and Laura Bailey. they dined on white asparagus and grilled swordfish and a steady stream of margaritas, which hostess Natalie Massenet urged everyone to guzzle. “It’s lemonade,” Chapman said to his wife, after a big, salt-rimmed glass landed squarely in front of him. Speaking of food and drink, pinto said she planned to eat up a storm during her london Juergen Teller trip. “I’m a foodie, so I’m definitely going and Natalie to E&o — they should give me free meals

Massenet im Jenkins t because I talk about it so much,” she said, in Proenza by referring to the popular pan-asian restaurant Schouler. Jacquetta Wheeler Sarah Harris in notting Hill.

photos  —SAMANTHACONTI

w29a010a;8.indd 10 3/28/13 8:26 PM 03282013202806 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Marc Jacobs and Loewe, in Lithuania. She taught me how to cross stone-encrusted evening bag. designed the site and Anne B. myself when I was six.” Muliarchyk’s work appears in Kelly translated Muliarchyk’s For “Begotten” in 2009, Muliarchyk independent fashion magazines because Escape Plan account of her trip into fiction. visited 500 churches in nine months “they allow you to express yourself as Raised in Vietnam and and photographed statues of saints and an artist and create and develop your ELLE MULIARCHYK sees “Escapes Prague, Muliarchyk may be more martyrs wearing luxury accessories. voice.” From Paradise,” her latest body of work, fascinated by religion than most There’s Saint Jude, who was famous Her series of self-portraits in as her resurrection. since it was off-limits for so long. “We for his travels, holding Jeremy Scott’s dressing rooms put her on the fashion “When you’re a fashion photographer, weren’t allowed to be religious during winged sneakers. Mary, at age 14, holds map seven years ago. Sneaking into you put yourself in a box in many luxury boutiques with as much ways,” she says, explaining that a equipment as she could conceal, recent road trip helped her break free Ataui Deng Elle Muliarchyk’s she maneuvered the confines of of her artistic confinement. in a feature “Escapes from tiny spaces while using backdrops, Standing on a cliff overlooking for I Love You Paradise” was lighting and props. “I almost got eye partially shot in the ragged Connecticut coastline and magazine. arrested at Jill Stuart,” she says. sleeping under the stars in Antelope the desert. A fashion story for I Love You Canyon, Utah, allowed her “to be magazine’s diet issue, featuring more free and figure out what my next Sudanese model Ataui Deng with direction would be,” she says. supersized helpings of food — a Muliarchyk’s “Escapes” photos are boar’s head, giant octopus, and leg haunting and mysterious. The stark of beef — was controversial. “The terrain put her in a black-and-white model grew up where food is a frame of mind. “I love film noir so luxury. The way people treat food much,” says Muliarchyk, who shot is a reflection of our society. Food is self-portraits in the canyon, holding the same as a piece of contemporary palm fronds over her head so their art — a Damien Hirst,” she says. shadows would fall on her face, and Muliarchyk has far ranging kneeling in front of a fountain as if interests, everything from music to she’s praying. math. A story for Garage magazine Muliarchyk, a 28-year-old former used hairstyles to convey molecular model who worked with Terry interpretation and quantum Richardson, Patrick Demarchelier entanglement, combining fashion and Oliviero Toscani, wore clothes and fractals. Muliarchyk shot borrowed from Chadwick Bell’s a model with her hair plaited, spring 2013 collection. “It was a braided and styled to look like surreal experience to wear delicate latticework. Muliarchyk, who took garments in the middle of a desert classes at Columbia and Berkeley, or standing on the stormy shore,” studied to be a scientist. “I never she says. “Every day I’d pull a new finished my degree,” she says. “I garment out of a suitcase, put it wanted to be a model.” on and transform into multiple ELLE MURIALCHYK PHOTOS BY She had enough of that after characters.” red platform Dolce & Gabanna shoes, several years. Now she has a number “Escapes” can be found on an communism,” she says. “When I was less and the baby in the arms of another of projects on the go at any one time. interactive Web site Muliarchyk than six months old, my grandmother Mary clutches a Van Cleef & Arpels “I’m capturing conductors in the launched this month. Jacob smuggled me out of Belarus and had me broach. Saint Lucy, who is said to have moment of ecstasy,” she says of one of Wildschiødtz, whose credits include baptized in a Christian Orthodox church poked her eyes out, gazes down at a blue her ongoing ones. — SHARON EDELSON FASHION SCOOPS

NEW GEM: Milan-based private equity HONOR ROLL: Christophe Girard, mayor of the Clessidra SGR has agreed to buy a 70 4th arrondissement of Paris and strategy percent stake in luxury jeweler and director at LVMH Fashion Group, had a watchmaker Buccellati Group for 80 good-luck charm tucked into the pages of million euros, or $102.6 at current his acceptance speech Wednesday night exchange. The transaction was signed as he was decorated as an officer of the between Clessidra and the Buccellati Legion of Honor: It was an invitation small space family, who retain a minority stake, along dated from 1967 for when his father, René, with Italian merchant bank Simest SpA. received the same recognition from then Following the agreement with French President Charles de Gaulle. Clessidra, Gianmaria Buccellati will be An eclectic and accomplished group named honorary president, while his — spanning the worlds of politics, art, son Andrea Buccellati will take on the role film, gastronomy, literature and fashion of president and will be responsible for — crowded into the gilded salons of the style and products. L’hôtel de Lassay for the ceremony. Buccellati currently counts 15 Claude Bartolone, president of the freestanding stores worldwide, National Assembly of France, called including doors in New York, Chicago, Girard a “man of 1,000 faces” given Aspen, Colo., and Beverly Hills. his broad interests, scope of influence, — ALESSANDRA TURRA his facility with languages including English and Japanese and his endless IN RECOVERY: Diane von Furstenberg is stream of communication. “Christophe currently recovering from an accident blogs, he tweets, he chats,” Bartolone on the slopes. said with a chuckle. “I had a bad fall at the end of a day Born in Saumur, France, Girard Big of skiing in Aspen,” she said via e-mail. started his career at Yves Saint “I broke my shoulder in three places. Laurent, spending 21 years as the right No surgery required. I am hand of couture boss Pierre resting and mending in my Bergé. He entered politics in the house in L.A.” late Nineties, around the same This isn’t the first time time as he joined LVMH Moët Business the designer has had a skiing Hennessy Louis Vuitton. As mishap. In early 2011, also in deputy mayor of Paris in charge Aspen, she was hit by another of culture in 2001, he famously skier who had lost control, brought an around-the-clock WWD Marketplace is the premier destination breaking her nose and causing arts festival, dubbed “Nuit light facial fractures in early Blanche,” or White Nights, 2011. — MARC KARIMZADEH Christophe to Paris. It has since been for the industry’s classified and career listings. Girard. duplicated in scores of cities STOCKING UP ON TIFFANY: Qatar DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY across Europe. Investment Authority continues to bet Firmly attached to his city and the on Tiffany & Co. The sovereign wealth Marais neighborhood in particular, fund for the Middle Eastern nation Girard declared, “It is impossible not to 800.423.3314 spent $8.7 million to buy a total of love Paris, and impossible to leave.” 128,248 shares of the high-end jeweler Among the French film stars present on Tuesday and Wednesday. That gives were Andréa Ferréol and Anouk Aimée, who wwd.com/marketplace the luxe-loving country more than 15.9 said a young director is preparing a million shares of Tiffany, or 12.5 percent script for her next film. of those outstanding. — EVAN CLARK — MILES SOCHA 12 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 29, 2013 Fashion and Social Issues Merge in India

there is a sense of international dressing by telecom giant Aircel to create looks I would be a fool if I were doing it again By MAYU SAINI across the world.” inspired by tiger conservation: Vaishali and again if it wasn’t selling. I think we He continues to expand his pres- S, Sougat Paul and Arjun Khanna were underestimate our woman, not just in the MUMBAI — Whether the fashion com- ence worldwide. “We have just opened each awarded 250,000 rupees, or $4,699. metropolitan cities but from the smaller munity was hit by a collective social con- in Brazil and now have stores in the There was concern for dogs, too, cities as well.” science or by mere coincidence, each Middle East, Indonesia, Japan, Taiwan, led by Bollywood actress Jacqueline Masaba Gupta, who has established of the five days of Lakme Fashion Week Singapore,” he said. Fernandez in support of adoption of her own niche with her prints — often here were focused as much on causes as LFW had 87 designer runway shows, street dogs, for PETA India. of cow prints on jackets — said she had they were on fashion. with a large number from Delhi and Garnering the most attention, how- gone a step further, to try and break the Not that fashion was ignored during the Mumbai — 20 designers from Delhi and ever, was the cause supporting local ar- mold, with her collection based on the shows, which were held from March 22 to 32 from Mumbai. Tarun Tahiliani, who tisans and weavers, the need to support widows of Banaras, another strong social 26. New York-based designer Naeem Khan kickstarted the event with his off-site them and their continuing decline. The theme from Indian society. She wears two made his first showing in India, making show just before the main event began, issue was discussed at a workshop and hats: one as an independent designer, the it a sort of homecoming. “Oh my god, the showed again after a gap, citing a stron- an entire day dedicated to Indian tex- other as creative director at Satya Paul. attention has been overwhelming,” he re- ger retail growth and a reorganization to tiles. As designer Ritu Kumar said at Designers are watching developments marked, shortly before his show began. handle this growth better. the workshop, one of the challenges is to at LFW carefully as the change of man- Tarun Tahiliani made his way back to “Designers often work different roles translate Indian textiles into modern fit- agement in the last few months has led Lakme Fashion Week after a gap with an at the same time, managing retail, de- ted silhouettes. “This is where the future to speculation and predictions about its off-site show, giving the event a kick-start sign, growth, etc., and it is sometimes a innovation comes in,” she said. future. Saket Dhankar, who succeeded and a look into his current designs and challenge to balance all of these things,” This innovation was apparent on the Anjana Sharma as head of fashion at drapes that have remained his signature. Tahiliani said, adding that the fashion runway with designers showing simpler IMG Reliance, said LFW will “continue Then there was the new management, weeks helped in making these balances silhouettes. Creams, whites and mono- to evolve” but in the meantime will keep led by Saket Dhankar, head of fashion by offering a one-stop space from which chromes ruled the day, as did neons. The many of its signature concepts, such as a at IMG Reliance, who measured and the designer’s work could be viewed. embroidery was more discreet, and at focus on Indian textiles and the Talent mapped the event carefully to win the Designers often pushed social causes other times, flamboyant in large florals, Box, where young designers hold runway

Swapnil Shinde Krishna Mehta Tarun Tahiliani Naeem Khan

difficult balances required of an event at their shows, often represented through bird motifs and geometric patterns, but shows in a separate area. that has been taking some flak for not the glamorous sieve of Bollywood celeb- breaking from the more traditional pat- “As thought leaders in Indian fashion getting enough buyers but having a tre- rities — both in the front row and on the terns and styles of wedding outfits. Net and trade, our endeavor is to strength- mendous strength in drawing the media, runway. An example was Vikram Phadnis’ and sheer fabrics recurred through the en LFW as a platform every season,” celebrities and in creating new talent. show, in partnership with Swades, a non- five days, in experimental plays with Dhankar explained, adding that he was There was buzz in terms of silhouette governmental organization that works for color blocking. “especially excited to have had Indian- and design, especially with the Saturday the empowerment of rural India. This Prints were recurring themes as born, international designer Naeem show by Naeem Khan. “This is my first brought together more than 40 Bollywood well. Krishna Mehta played with mono- Khan’s first-ever show in India, which showing in India and I’m excited and stars, sending photographers wild. Each chromes and a variety of print styles, demonstrates our efforts to integrate very nervous,” he told WWD. set of the Bollywood celebrities walked working with each other in unexpected India and build its reputation as a fash- Khan’s designs have been worn by ce- the runway with a local hero from a vil- combinations of stripes and shapes. “It’s ion destination globally.” lebrities such First Lady Michelle Obama, lage, all in shades of gold and rusts, all been a medley of prints coming together. Purnima Lamba, head of innova- Beyoncé, Penelope Cruz, Eva Longoria, done in khadi. My textures are so strong, my textiles are tions at Lakme (the beauty brand from Lea Michele, Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, “I am celebrating rural India through so strong I don’t try to mess too much Hindustan Unilver) who is partner at the Carrie Underwood, Florence Welch, my line,” Phadnis said after the show. with silhouettes. For me, it is the fabric event, had a clear perspective on the new Emily Blunt, and Queen Noor of Jordan. There were other events calling on that is the core,” she said. management: “The relationship between “Celebrity dressing is very important the collective conscience, such as an ode Many of the buyers were from the Lakme and IMG has been very collabora- to us,” he said. to the conservation of tigers, for which fast-growing local market. tive and Saket coming on board has not Describing his silhouettes, he ob- Bollywood actress Neha Dhupia walked “It’s all eyes on the Indian market,” caused fear. Overall, we haven’t seen the served, “My clothes are classics, they the runway. And more than 40 design- said designer Swapnil Shinde, whose kind of buzz we saw at this event in a appeal to an international woman. In ers participated with tiger-inspired gar- show had neon shades and strong silhou- long time. It’s been very positive in terms India everyone is dressing like in New ments. Three designers were also cho- ettes. “Season after season people ask of the quality of designers, buyers, its all York and this applies everywhere else, sen as winners of a contest sponsored me who buys this, does it sell? And I say been very positive,” she said.