spirits largely intact. spiritandinfectiousan unbreakable optimism,theyhave prevailed withtheir smilesand dia’s greatest treasure isitspeople. have The Khmers beentohell andback,butthanksto rainforests are emerging asagateway toecotourismadventures. stay thatway.InlandliethewildCardamom Mountains,avastemeraldwildernesswhose Cambodia’s ethnicminorities andremote naturalattractions. traditional communities. water dolphins. Cyclistscanexplore itsbanksasitmeandersthroughcolonialtownsand rural life andthetimelessbeautyofricepaddiesswayingsugarpalms. are bubbles. Headtotheprovinces toexperiencetherhythmof aroundtheTonléSaplake genius,comesbundled withtrauma,poverty, corruptionanddeforestation.Khmer inspiring anddepressing, anenchantinglandwhere AngkorWat,theultimate expression of Rouge.with thehorrorsofKhmer WelcometoCambodia, acountrywithhistoryboth ism, symmetryandthe sublime. DescendintothehellofTuol Slengandcomefaceto Ascend totherealm symbiosisofspirituality,symbol- ofthegodsatAngkorWat,aspectacular Cambodia 182 Despite havingAngkorWat–theeighthwonder oftheworld–initsbackyard,Cambo- Fringed bybeachesandtropicalislands,thesouthcoastisundeveloped to butunlikely isaworlduntoitself,itswildandmountainouslandscapesshelteringThe northeast The mightyMekong,giver oflife, ishometosomeoftheregion’s lastremaining fresh- Siem ReapandPhnom Penh maybethemostpopulardestinationsbutboth,inmanyways,

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ FAST FACTS

(goodbye), Phrases April Seasons Money Population Country Code Capital Area 181,035 sqkm US$1=4125r(riel)

wet May-October, dryNovember- wetMay-October, sua s’dei aw kohn 14.25 million

% (hello), 855 (thankyou) liasuhnhao-y

CAMBODIA 183 Yadaw Falls NH76 Le Thanh Dak S E A Dam Bou Sraa Dak Dam Waterfall S O U T H C H I N A Phulung Town Yadaw

1 s

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l Voen Sai (Saigon) VIETNAM

h National Park Ban MONDULKIRI RATANAKIRI g Sen Monorom Lung

i NH78

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Kralor River (650km) ng Bavet

o Krek

Mek Chiphu To Vientiane Dong Kalaw bobor

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Voen iv Svay Kham Rieng

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g ( p243 ) Snorkel or dive near a tropi- or dive ) Snorkel p243 ( 7 on

Kompong Cham k Chup NH11 Long Xuyen Me 6 Ramsar Site Strung Treng Neak Luong Ferry Bowl of Bowl US$0.50 1L bottle of water Bottle of Angkor beer US$2-3 US$3 T-shirt Souvenir US$8-20 room with air-con Hotel Wat Vinh Xuong

Leap ac „ „ „ „ „ CAMBODIA INDEX INDEX CAMBODIA

NH1 Diving on mellow Ser- cal island and then chill Beach. endipity Mangrove forests Kong Province’s forests along the Koh the Koh along forests Province’s Kong Kong Conservation Corridor. Kaam Samnor Maha nlé Bass Doc Phnom Sontuk „ „

To Chau

PREAH Sambor Prei Kuk VIHEAR 2 Tbeng Phnom Den Koki Da Meanchey Angkor Borei Skuon Kompong Thom Bati Tinh Bien Tonlé NH6 Phnom Tmatboey Ibis Project

NH64 Ri ap ver Takeo Kakoah

S Den é 3 NH64 Preah Khan Phnom 5 Prasat Tonl

Phnom Chisor

Kulen PHNOM PENH s Kirivong Srayong Sa Em

Prek Chak n Angk Tasaom i Speu 6

a Trach

t Kompong Ha Tien Khvau To Si Saket Xa Xia

n Kompong National Park Kirirom Chhnang u Kompong 4

o NH67 Kompong Luong Koh Ker

M Dam Dek

Beng Elephant

Kompong Phhluk Mountains Mealea Krakor

Choam k Veng

Anlong Station e

Choam Srawngam

Kbal Spean r Bokor Hill

Kampot (1813m) k Sap Kravanh

Lake g Tonlé Koh Thmei Sre Ambel

n Phnom Aoral

Ὀ Ὀ Bokor Roleak Kang Cheung a Roluos Phu Quoc Island To Surin Knong Krapeur

THAILAND D Srei Chamnar Reserve Southern Cardamoms Protected Forest Chumnoab NH4 O Smach Chi Phat Protected Forest Chong Kneas Phnom Kulen Central Cardamon Angkor Prek Toal Bird Banteay Rovieng National Park Thmor ains t

Veal Veng n ou Ang Trapeang Tuek ( p236 ) Take an outboard ) Take p236 ( 5 M NH48 Bang Thma Andoung O Som m Tatai Waterfall Chong Jom o (Kompong Som) NH68 m Wat Banan

a the slow, sce- ) Travel p221 ( Kralanh Promoui

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CAMBODIA •• Highlights r a Koh Russei Koh Corridor C Koh Kong Phnom Kong Wat Ek Krong Conservation ( p219 ) Explore lush rural lush rural ) Explore p219 ( Botum Sakor National Park ( p210 ) Clamber around spell- p210 ( Sisophon Samloem Ream National Park Bateay Chhmar Phnom Sankos Koh Rong (1717m) Phnom Borei Sneng Island Sampeau Samlaut Multiple Use Area Koh Kong Hat Lek Banteay Top Mongkol Cham Yeam NH69 Phnom Samkos ( p252 ) Dine on grilled shrimp with ) Dine on grilled shrimp p252 ( Pailin

Pream Kasaop Wildlife Sanctuary Psar Pruhm NH57 Wildlife Sanctuary Gulf of Ko Kut Aranya Prathet

Thailand upriver to this effigy-adorned upriver cemetery, Ratanakiri’s the burial place for one of ethnic minorities. Kep pepper sprigs. crunchy-fresh Tampuen cemetery Tampuen binding galleries and then cycle to the stone faces. Bayon’s mysterious nic way from Siem Reap to Battambang boat. river by Battambang countryside by moto or bicycle, climb- and riding the ing up to hilltop temples bamboo train. Angkor Wat River-boat trip NH5 Trat Koh Por Waterfall Ban

CAMBODIA To Bangkok (280km) To Ko Chang „ „ „ „ „

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