CAMBODIA spirits largely intact. spiritandinfectiousan unbreakable optimism,theyhave prevailed withtheir smilesand dia’s greatest treasure isitspeople. have The Khmers beentohell andback,butthanksto rainforests are emerging asagateway toecotourismadventures. stay thatway.InlandliethewildCardamom Mountains,avastemeraldwildernesswhose Cambodia’s ethnicminorities andremote naturalattractions. traditional communities. water dolphins. Cyclistscanexplore itsbanksasitmeandersthroughcolonialtownsand rural life andthetimelessbeautyofricepaddiesswayingsugarpalms. are bubbles. Headtotheprovinces toexperiencetherhythmof aroundtheTonléSaplake genius,comesbundled withtrauma,poverty, corruptionanddeforestation.Khmer inspiring anddepressing, anenchantinglandwhere AngkorWat,theultimate expression of Rouge.with thehorrorsofKhmer WelcometoCambodia, acountrywithhistoryboth ism, symmetryandthe sublime. DescendintothehellofTuol Slengandcomefaceto Ascend totherealm symbiosisofspirituality,symbol- ofthegodsatAngkorWat,aspectacular Cambodia 182 Despite havingAngkorWat–theeighthwonder oftheworld–initsbackyard,Cambo- Fringed bybeachesandtropicalislands,thesouthcoastisundeveloped to butunlikely isaworlduntoitself,itswildandmountainouslandscapesshelteringThe northeast The mightyMekong,giver oflife, ishometosomeoftheregion’s lastremaining fresh- Siem ReapandPhnom Penh maybethemostpopulardestinationsbutboth,inmanyways,
FAST FACTS
(goodbye), Phrases April Seasons Money Population Country Code Capital Area 181,035 sqkm US$1=4125r(riel) Phnom Penh
wet May-October, dryNovember- wetMay-October, sua s’dei aw kohn 14.25 million
% (hello), 855 (thankyou) liasuhnhao-y
CAMBODIA 183 Yadaw Falls NH76 Le Thanh Dak S E A Dam Bou Sraa Dak Dam Waterfall S O U T H C H I N A Phulung Town Yadaw
1 s
Lumphat d
Putang n Kachon Waterfall Virachey
Romanear a 7
l Voen Sai (Saigon) VIETNAM
h National Park Ban MONDULKIRI RATANAKIRI g Sen Monorom Lung
i NH78
Koh Nhek Srepok H Ho Chi Minh City 7
Loc Ninh n
r nlé Trapaeng Sre
e Sre Khtum t San
s To Mytho a
E Siem Pang nlé Moc Bai
( p241 ) Discover Koh To Snuol 00 100 km 60 miles Trail Tay Ninh (rice porridge) US$1 Mekong LAOS Discovery Kampi Xa Mat Memot Trapaeng Plong Dong Chhlong
Kralor River (650km) ng Bavet
o Krek
Mek Chiphu To Vientiane Dong Kalaw bobor
Kratie er
Voen iv Svay Kham Rieng
Suong R Treng Stung
g ( p243 ) Snorkel or dive near a tropi- or dive ) Snorkel p243 ( 7 on
Kompong Cham k Chup NH11 Long Xuyen Me 6 Prey Veng Ramsar Site Strung Treng Neak Luong Ferry Bowl of Bowl US$0.50 1L bottle of water Bottle of Angkor beer US$2-3 US$3 T-shirt Souvenir US$8-20 room with air-con Hotel Wat Vinh Xuong
Leap ac CAMBODIA INDEX INDEX CAMBODIA
NH1 Diving on mellow Ser- cal island and then chill Beach. endipity Mangrove forests Kong Province’s forests along the Koh the Koh along forests Province’s Kong Kong Conservation Corridor. Kaam Samnor Maha nlé Bass Doc Phnom Sontuk
To Chau
PREAH Sambor Prei Kuk VIHEAR 2 Tbeng Phnom Den Koki Da Meanchey Angkor Borei Skuon Kompong Thom Bati Tinh Bien Tonlé NH6 Phnom Tmatboey Ibis Project
NH64 Ri ap ver Takeo Kakoah
S Den é 3 NH64 Preah Khan Phnom 5 Prasat Preah Vihear Tonl
Phnom Chisor
Kulen PHNOM PENH s Kirivong Srayong Sa Em
Prek Chak n Angk Tasaom i Speu 6
a Trach
t Kompong Ha Tien Khvau To Si Saket Xa Xia
n Kompong National Park Kirirom Chhnang u Kompong 4
o Kep NH67 Kompong Luong Koh Ker
M Dam Dek
Beng Elephant
Kompong Phhluk Mountains Mealea Krakor
Choam k Veng
Anlong Station e
Choam Srawngam
Kbal Spean r Bokor Hill
Kampot (1813m) k Siem Reap Pursat Sap Kravanh
Lake g Tonlé Koh Thmei Sre Ambel
n Phnom Aoral
Ὀ Ὀ Bokor Roleak Kang Cheung a Roluos Phu Quoc Island To Surin Knong Krapeur
THAILAND D Srei Chamnar Reserve Southern Cardamoms Protected Forest Chumnoab NH4 O Smach Chi Phat Protected Forest Chong Kneas Phnom Kulen Central Cardamon Angkor Prek Toal Bird Banteay Rovieng National Park Thmor ains t
Veal Veng n ou Ang Trapeang Tuek ( p236 ) Take an outboard ) Take p236 ( 5 M NH48 Bang Thma Andoung O Som m Sihanoukville Tatai Waterfall Chong Jom Battambang o (Kompong Som) NH68 m Wat Banan
a the slow, sce- ) Travel p221 ( Kralanh Promoui
Samraong d
CAMBODIA •• Highlights r a Koh Russei Koh Corridor C Koh Kong Phnom Kong Wat Ek Krong Conservation ( p219 ) Explore lush rural lush rural ) Explore p219 ( Botum Sakor National Park ( p210 ) Clamber around spell- p210 ( Sisophon Samloem Koh Rong Ream National Park Bateay Chhmar Phnom Sankos Koh Rong (1717m) Phnom Borei Sneng Island Sampeau Samlaut Multiple Use Area Koh Kong Hat Lek Banteay Top Mongkol Poipet Cham Yeam NH69 Phnom Samkos ( p252 ) Dine on grilled shrimp with ) Dine on grilled shrimp p252 ( Pailin
Pream Kasaop Wildlife Sanctuary Psar Pruhm NH57 Wildlife Sanctuary Gulf of Ko Kut Aranya Prathet
Thailand upriver to this effigy-adorned upriver cemetery, Ratanakiri’s the burial place for one of ethnic minorities. Kep pepper sprigs. Kampot crunchy-fresh Tampuen cemetery Tampuen binding galleries and then cycle to the stone faces. Bayon’s mysterious nic way from Siem Reap to Battambang boat. river by Battambang countryside by moto or bicycle, climb- and riding the ing up to hilltop temples bamboo train. Angkor Wat River-boat trip NH5 Trat Koh Por Waterfall Ban
CAMBODIA To Bangkok (280km) To Ko Chang
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