t ch Trend Wa Week Milan Women’s A hub of exceptional The Milano Moda Donna, the current name for Milan Women’s Fashion Week, is a major international event held in some of the landmark locations of Milan. The shows can be seen live or admired through live streaming on the minds cameramoda.it website. Cristiana Bonzi was there. Fibre2Fashion he Milano Moda Laboratorio, the result of an A project in the form of Donna from intensive workshop dedicated to an exhibition and a book, February 20 to 26 film students. Nine exceptional conceived and curated by presented prêt-à- mentors selected the students Maria Luisa Frisa and Stefano porter womenswear and guided them throughout Tonchi, celebrated the Italian collectionsT for the Fall/Winter the process—from theoretical fashion system over the 2018/19 season. In all, there and practical lessons to the seminal three decades in were 156 collections, divided shooting and final editing of which it cemented relations into 64 fashion shows and 92 the film. The Camera Nazionale and exchanges between the presentations—all of them put on della Moda Italiana inaugurated members of a generation of stage in a positive context for the ‘Italiana. Italy through the lens designers, industrialists, artists, Italian fashion system. of fashion 1971-2001’, promoted architects and intellectuals The vibrant fashion week and produced with the Comune and defined Italy’s image in the included Versace’s 40th di Milano-Cultura and Palazzo world and put it on the map of anniversary celebrations Reale. international culture. with a twin show—Etro’s 50th anniversary and Mila Schön’s 60th. It was also an occasion for big comebacks: by Emilio Pucci, on the catwalk again, to Romeo Gigli and Antonio Berardi with their off-calendar events. It was as much a time to show the need to change terms and timings for collection presentations and distribution— from Tommy Hilfiger’s “see now, buy now” formula to the multi- capsule revolution of Moncler, followed by Gruppo Tod’s with their Factory project (who will present more releases through the year in partnership with different designers). And while Prada for the first time hosted its show at the new Torre della Fondazione, Giorgio Armani presented Una Giacca, a short film created for the first edition of Armani/ Moncler Simone Rocha

Opening the Week on the night of February 20 was Moncler Genius. Chairman and CEO Remo Ruffini staged the Fall- Winter 2018 collection in Milan, designating the Palazzo delle Scintille (in the new CityLife area of the town) as the Moncler Genius Building. It wasn’t just a fashion show, but a special project conceived as a hub of exceptional minds cultivating their singularity, while defining the unity of Moncler Genius. Housed in different cells, each Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli one devoted to a singular project,

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Milan Women’s Fashion Week 2 Fashion Week. Tommynow Drivewas an event closingtheMilanFashion Tommy Hilfigerannounceditsbig lookisinstantlyshoppable,” every collection. It’scool,confidentand greatest hitsofourSpring2018 is roaringintotownwiththe Tommynow fashionexperience With thewords“Ciao, Milano. The Innovation galore the mainplayground. classic Monclerdownjacketas monthwiththe release every two collectionsayear, butone capsule formula:nomorethan revolution, themulti- Moncler’s single monthlyprojects.That’s one dotatatimethrough Moncler Geniuswillbereleased during MilanoModaDonna, at theMonclerGeniusBuilding Angels. Presented asawhole Hiroshi Fujiwara, MonclerPalm Ninomiya, MonclerFragment Craig Green, MonclerNoirKei Moncler SimoneRocha, Moncler Moncler 1952,Grenoble, Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli, high-end creativepartnerships: were presentedasaresultof eight differentcapsulecollections Alberta Ferretti

Emilio Pucci Alberta Ferretti official apparelpartner. partnership dealtobecomeits Hilfiger hasrecentlysealeda Motorsport, withwhomTommy of Mercedes-AMGPetronas pitstop challenge,bothcourtesy the F1racesimulatorand the thrillofmotorracingat installations. Guestsexperienced racing andspeedingLEDlight life soundsofFormula One station surroundedbyreal- tunnelandportrait high-octane passed throughafuturistic, ambassador GigiHadid,models 70 countries.Headedbybrand shoppable channelsinmorethan an ecosystemofimmediately runway lookswereavailableacross men’s andwomen’s buy now”—all collection intheformat“seenow, Spring 2018 TommyXGigi capsule marked thegloballaunchof with aracetrackset,theshow of MilanoCongressi,outfitted of Formula One. and theadrenaline-fuelledworld built aroundfashion, innovation a high-energyexperientialevent guests, whowereinvitedtoenjoy amazing experienceforover2,000

At the dusty old fairground At thedustyoldfairground Alberta Ferretti “We pay tribute to Tommy’s technology that allowed app longtime love of racing, fusing users to take a photo of any item our American heritage with in-store, in an ad, on the runway modern athleticism for him (live or online), or on the street and her. There are unique and shop it instantly through plays on proportion and shape; tommy.com. No wonder Tommy unexpected twists on our icons; Hilfiger was recently recognised and graphic interpretations of as one of the three innovative speed stripes, checkerboard companies in style by Fast and archival logos,” went the Company as part of its annual description. signature issue. Tommynow has proved to act as an incubator for innovation Beyond sensations wherein new technology is Sensational would be the right tested, evolved and integrated word to define Gucci’s show, into the Tommy Hilfiger business. where models walked carrying By scanning QR codes placed in their hands a mock-up of across the location, guests were their own head. It was a clear offered special photo and video metaphor in the mind of designer content, including the evolution Alessandro Michele, for whom of the Spring 2018 TommyXGigi identity is neither a natural matter collaborative capsule and the nor a preset category that can be process of developing a Formula imposed. It’s not an immutable One Mercedes-AMG Petronas or fixed fact, but a social and Motorsport racing car. Moreover, cultural construct. It is a never- the digital involvement went ending process that opens a from the Tmy.boy and Tmy. field of possibilities wherein girl chatbots on Facebook anybody can become who he/she Messenger providing celebrity wants to be. The subjectivities styling advice to the Tommynow embodying Gucci’s universe

Snap app, image recognition Emilio Pucci represented the invitation to Ferragamo Ferragamo Ferragamo

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Watch Milan Women’s Fashion Week 2 Fashion their mindsandstandingout all boundaries,daringtospeak passion andadesiretorock women areunitedthrough explained hervision, inwhich to me.”DonatellaVersace thus why thesewomenareallqueens through whattheyachieve:thisis through birth,butratherearned that todaynothingisacquired decide tobecomewhatweare. possibility throughwhichwecan the symbolofanemancipatory culturally awarecreature.Itwas It’s abiologicallyindefiniteand puppies anddoublingheads. on itshands,fawnhorns,dragon Cyborg ispost-human:ithaseyes normative discipline.TheGucci identities thattransgressthe blending differentevolving praised asaparadoxicalcreature the hybridismetaphorically of consciousness),inwhich Haraway, anexpertinthefield genuine CyborgManifesto(DJ beyond, takingtheshapeofa singularity. identity models,affirmingone’s diverge, notconformingtoother

“The ClansofVersace“The know The collectionwent Gucci

Emilio Pucci Gucci queens ontheirownright. are bornroyal,andsomebecome Because, intheend,somepeople paidtributetokinship. family’ ‘thegreaterVersacenamed after seemingly randommanner. Prints tartans weremixedtogetherina sass toeveningwear. Groupsof the rightamountof‘look-at-me’ fringe insertsondressesgave personalities. Football-style and stilettos:anexplosionof trendy andsubculture, past andpresent,oldnew, friction andcontrastbetweenthe a clashofculturesgenerates style choice.Onthecatwalk, from thecrowdthroughtheir luxuriously utilitariandouble- duvets, roomymeltonduffelsand and dynamic,withvoluminous orelongated and curvaceous The silhouettewasshapely mixed andglamorouslymingled. jet-set auraandsportyspiritwere inspired aglitzydetourwherethe deal datingbacktothe1950s, and agroundbreakinglingerie America, hisloveforsportswear Emilio Pucci’s owntieswith Absolutely fluid Gucci face . Waists were nipped, joining Guillaume Meilland as voluminous, cropped the design director for men’s. knits topped further highlighted The collection found motivation the womanly shapes. Quilting in the frayed edges of modern gained a sophisticated flair, decadence, where a new and underpinnings turned into construct of dressing emerged: . familiar forms were stripped The alluring and the sporty back, loosened and elongated were continuously mixed, with ease and functionality. including logo mania. The Traditional silhouettes were palette was made of make-up dissolved for a contemporary box powdery tones: soft pink, take on formal codes. blue, grey and dusty pastels Materials—from plush were highlighted by the sfumato to Italian wool fabrics, from mirage prints; purple and heavy silk twill to soft cottons— green combined with taupe wore broad strokes of colour: in the Tulipani and Trifoglio merlot red and mustard yellow archive prints. When it came mixed with parakeet green and to accessories, sophistication deep vatican blue between hints met function: minimal of nude and blush. shopping bags, both in print and , the keystone of solids, with plexiglass handles Ferragamo’s history, was the and oversized pockets; neoprene seed of a collection that was lace-ups with kitten heels and purposefully visualised from patent . the ground up. For her, leather The Ferragamo co-ed Fall- would be the fundamental Winter 2018 show opened a new material for calfskin coats with chapter of the fashion house’s soft cashmere lining and pull-on history: Paul Andrew presented knee-high boots in nabuk and his inaugural collection as ostrich, as well as for women’s creative director, Hilfiger in buttery nappa leather and Hilfiger Hilfiger Hilfiger

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Watch Milan Women’s Fashion Week 2 Fashion personal styling,wascapableof daywear, thatenhancedwith and decisiveinterpretationof proposed acontemporary Meanwhile, AlbertaFerretti Descisive interpretation leather shoulders. double wool-cashmerewith the original,wasdesignedin lengthened andoversizedfrom An Englishdonkeyjacket, relaxed, streamlinedsilhouette. wereupdatedina wardrobe. Cotton-bonded brought fluiditytothewinter womeswear looks.Layering the collection, echoingthe tailors formedtheanchorof stitched finishingbymaster and shearlingfeaturinghand- Shirting insilktwill,wool,leather with innovativeconstruction. authentic pieceswererevised elevated takeontheutilitarian: the archive.Menswearwasan of silkfoulardssourcedfrom were madefromthematerial dresses toponchos.-dresses pieces: fromcashmeresweater designed tocomplementleather wool-silk blends.Knitswere Versace friend LorenzoQuinn’s sculpture I havedecidedtoincludemy assertive woman. For thisreason, I imaginedaconfidentand highlight characteraffirmation. mydesigns,Iwantedto “Through a twisttotheFerretti aesthetic. emphasising statement shoulders These wereboldsilhouetteswith transitioning fromdaytonight. Moncler Genius Atmosphere Versace small tassels. coloured silkcords,enrichedwith boots andsandalsmadefrom muses wereseeninhigh-heeled Her sprinkledwithcrystals. together tocreateagoddess and embellisheddetailscame and skirts.Simplesilhouettes sequins seenalsoonthet- by vibrantgoldandsilver eveningwear wascharacterised The transitionfromdaywearto injacquardfabrics. reinterpreted denim .Jacketswere or jerseyandpairedwithblack leather capeslinedwithwool included coats,skirtsand or metallicbelts.Daywear fabrics, sculptedjewels flashes ofgoldlightthrough feathers aswelladding textiles suchasdenimwith the confidentabilityinmixing trends, thecollectionexuded Ferretti. a metaphorofreality,” declared of theuniverse,whichforme,is places thewomanatcentre runway, amasterpiecethat asafocalpoint ofthe ‘Gravity’

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