MASTERING TRADITIONAL HAND with Alison Larkin

In this course you will be learning the skills of traditional hand embroidery, taking your experience of cross-stitch to a new level. We will explore types of both counted thread and free embroidery, through a series of five individual projects which can be framed individually or put together to make a wall-hanging to show off your new skills.

You will be working with a variety of , wool and metallic threads, as well as beads and sequins, and learn stitches and techniques you can apply to your future work. Come with me and explore the wonderful variety of hand embroidery!

The five projects each take two sessions to complete: the amount of time needed will vary according to the individual project. It would be best to work through each session and project in order, as the skills needed are gradually built up throughout the course.

SEQUENCE OF THE SESSIONS:

Session 1: Cornucopia I: infills: You will learn how to stitch the edge stitches and diaper infills used in blackwork Session 2: Cornucopia II: Silverwork and sequins: You will learn how to couch metallic threads and how to stitch sequins using beads Session 3: Hardanger I: Kloster blocks and eyelets: You will learn how to work the foundation blocks used in , as well as how to stitch eyelets Session 4: Hardanger II: and border: You will learn how to do hardanger cutwork and infills, and how to stitch a four-sided stitch border Session 5: Crewelwork I: Line stitches and Bayeux stitch: You will learn simple line stitches such as stem stitch and , and how to work buttonhole/ and Bayeux Stitch Session 6: Crewelwork II: Filling stitches: You will learn filling stitches such as satin stitch, trellis stitch and French knots. Session 7: Georgian Flower I: Shading and stems: You will translate some of the line stitches to working with and learn how to do silk Shading (with cotton!) Session 8: Georgian Flower II: Goldwork: You will learn how to work with passing threads to make some different goldwork stitches Session 9: Dragonfly I: Padded Embroidery: You will learn how to use padding to make raised embroidery Session 10: Dragonfly II: Beading and : You will be working couching and Feather stitch with metallic threads and learning how to stitch beads.

I hope you enjoy mastering the basic skills of hand embroidery with me and that you will discover and develop an activity which can provide you with a lifetime of pleasure, relaxation, and creative joy! Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live

Session 1: Cornucopia I: Blackwork Infills

Blackwork was a style of embroidery that was very widely used on costume during the Tudor and Jacobean periods. As the name suggests, it was usually worked in black, or sometimes red. It was used as a popular substitute for , which was handmade and horribly expensive! Today it is a versatile and popular form of embroidery which can be stitched in black or in any other colour you like.

This design uses the traditional Cornucopia, or ‘Horn-of-Plenty’ design, and incorporates black and coloured stitching as well as metallic thread embroidery with silver thread. It will take you two sessions to complete.

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR THIS SESSION:

• or small frame • Embroidery • Evenweave linen, 28 count, about 20-25cm square (it needs to fit your hoop or frame) • needle, size 22 • DMC Stranded cotton 310, 904, and 550 or equivalents in another brand • Marking pen

READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH BEFORE YOU START YOUR EMBROIDERY.

MARKING OUT AND FRAMING UP YOUR FABRIC:

Use your marking pen to trace the outline pattern on the chart sheets onto your fabric. Do not copy the letters but do mark the dots. Place your fabric in the hoop and make sure it is taut. If you prefer, use a small roller frame or similar.

Instructions for marking out and framing up your fabric are in a separate worksheet if you need them.

WORKING THE EMBROIDERY:

HORN-OF-PLENTY:

1. Start by working the infill patterns in the Horn. These are worked with TWO strands of Black cotton (DMC 310) in the needle. The easiest way to work blackwork infill patterns is to work all the stitches in one direction first, then work the other directions in turn.

2. Start with section A and use the diagram on the Charts handout. Work the black, vertical stitches: pick the point with the longest vertical section and work a line of stitches, then fill in either side of that point. Adjust the length of the stitches where you need to so your stitching stops at the edge of the shape, where you have marked the pattern line. You are going to work the edges in the next session.

3. When you have done all the vertical stitches, work the horizontal ones (still stitching with black thread!)

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live

4. Section B (Pattern B) has diagonal stitches as well. Work the vertical stitches of pattern B, then the horizontal ones. Then work the blue diagonal stitches, then the green ones. Again, adjust the length of the stitches to touch the edge of the shape. Do not take the stitches past the marked pattern line.

Working the infill Pattern B: the four stages.

5. Continue with sections C-F, working each infill pattern using the stitching diagrams in the attached handout. Do not work the pattern inside the horn yet (section J). Work the vertical stitches, then horizontal, then each diagonal in turn. Take your stitches as far as your marked line and adjust the length of the stitches to fit.

FRUITS AND LEAVES:

For the fruits and leaves, you will work some of the edges in session 2, but you need to outline some of them with stranded cottons. In addition, some of the fruits and leaves are worked in different colours.

The Banana (labelled A), fruits G and H, and the leaves are outlined in Whipped Back Stitch: see diagram below.

6. You make this stitch by working back stitch along the lines of the edge, using 2 strands of cotton in the needle. Then come up at the end of your line of back stitch, and work back along the line, passing the needle and thread under each stitch in turn. Always whip in the same direction, and do not take the thread through the fabric. At the end of the line, take the thread to the back at the end of the last stitch.

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live

7. Outline fruit G and the three leaves using whipped back stitch in green cotton (DMC 904). The veins in the leaves are stitched with DMC 904 as well, making back stitch or straight stitches along the marked lines. The infill for fruit G (pattern G) is also worked in 904.

8. Outline fruit H in purple (DMC 550) in whipped back stitch. Don’t outline fruit I: you will edge that one in session 2. Work the infill patterns in these two fruits following the charts on the handout.

9. Outline the banana in black (DMC 310). Also stitch the outline, the stem and the creases in the pumpkin in whipped back stitch in black. Stitch the infill in the banana in green, using pattern A.

10. Finally, now the edges of the pumpkin and leaves are completed, infill the inside of the Horn with pattern J (see handout) in black thread. Leave the rim of the horn clear: you will stitch this in the next session.

CORNUCOPIA MARKING PATTERN AND STITCH CHARTS MARKING PATTERN:

NB: Do not mark the letters but do include the dots.

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live

BLACKWORK INFILL STITCH DIAGRAMS:

In these diagrams, each line on the grid represents a thread of the linen fabric. Work all the stitches in one direction first (I suggest the black ones), then work the red stitches. Then the blue ones, then the green ones. Your pattern will gradually build up as you add stitches. Adjust the length of the stitches to fit the shape you are completing.

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live