Winter Life in the Pyrénées Orientales 2009/10

P.O.Life Winter Life in the Pyrénées Orientales 2009/10

20% off ski hire in French life Les Angles! Walk the region Festival & tradition Améliorez votre Anglais Food & wine & Test your French Out for the day English Speaking Services Directory

n°26 2 « Docteur docteur! Edito ... Mes dents claquent comme des castagnettes »

« Ah oui ! Ce doit être la grippe espagnole »

Coucou ! Being a little short of leg and wide of body, I don’t usually give myself a pat on the back when I put on weight, (mainly'cos I can’t reach anymore!) but I must admit to more than a tingle of pleasure as this fatter version of PO Life rolled off the press. These little fatties will now come out every three months, 9,000 copies redistributed monthly, plump with everything you need to know about the P-O. Of course, if you want to be ABSOLUTELY sure of securing your next PO Life, why not take out a subscription? (see page 57). Don’t forget also to register for our free weekly newsletter at www.anglophone-direct.com to receive a detailed events calendar and local news by email. This month, Mike Rhodes takes you snow shoe walking, Ellen Hall opens a door in Céret, John Fairclough visits a brewery in Argelès, Susie Hughes shares her frustrations on buying a second hand car, and John Frazer-Robinson heads for a hard day’s relaxation at Domaine de Falgos. And as autumn melts gracefully into winter, Jane joins with me in wishing you all good things for 2010! Kate and Jane

To advertise here... Pour faire connaître votre entreprise... Advertising Department Magazine gratuit - Droits réservés - Reproduction interdite - Concepteur 06 43 80 73 51 et rédacteur Kate & Jane - Couverture: Phil Monk - Maquette: MS Lang [email protected] http://ms.lang.free.fr - Impression: Imprimerie du Mas - Tirage: 9000 ex - Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique - Anglophone-direct accept no respon- For editorial queries & comment sibility for the competency of people and services advertising in PO Life [email protected] 3 4 Summary p6 - Walk : Snowshoe Walk Bac de Vallserra p8 - Did you know? p9 - French Life : Buying a second hand car p12 - Festival & Christmas traditions p18 - Restaurant review p20 - Out for the day p30 - Language exercises p34 - Charities p36 - Winter warmth p38 - Post office p40 - Winter sports p42 - Book life p44 - Things you might need to know p46 - Art life p48 - Quirky properties p52 - Cap D’Ona Brewery, Argelès p54 - Changes to your British / Eire Satellite TV / Radio p56 - Christmas markets p58 - Festive french food p60 - Emergency numbers p62 - English speaking services

5 Walktheregion

Snowshoe Walk Bac de Vallserra Les Angles

with Mike Rhodes

This circular snowshoe walk passes through the vast Scots Pine forest above Les Angles and discovers the ruined village and church of Vallserra, deserted after the Plague. Distance 8km, 3 hours. A super half day walk that can be combined with a ski holiday. Remember that this is still a wild area and that conditions can change quickly.

Access : Starting on the route de Balcere, at continue on the obvious track in the same line the col at 1790m GPS 31N 424247E 4715570N through the forest. On your right you will see where there is parking or take the Les Angles many fallen trees resulting from the hurricane free navette to the same spot. Map IGN Font in Jan 2009, which decimated the area. Romeu 2249ET. 4 Winter is the best time to see the many Walk : tracks of wild animals that roam the area so try 4 From the car park, follow the piste SW for and identify as many as possible. You should 100m and turn right NE at a fence and cattle be able to see tracks of wild boar, fox, roe deer, grid (in summer). Follow the track descending stags, marmots and many more. Wolves and slightly, just below the ridge line. After 700m bears have been seen in the Capcir but it is the track passes close to the road but doubtful if you will see these!! 6 The entire population of Vall Serra was wiped out by the Black Death at the beginning of the XIV century. 4 After 1500m, a small track turns left SW Only two sisters survived. and descends through the forest for 1k to a junction with a wide piste. If you miss this turning you will arrive at a larger track in a 4 It is possible to shorten this walk by further 200m. This track can also be followed retracing the route for 200m and following the to the same place. Follow the piste E for 500m track to the right (distance 5.5k in total) but to arrive at the ruined church of Vallserra at our walk continues past the church and turns 1650m. The church is in a lovely open valley south past an ancient lime oven. Do not take so take time to have a snack, drink and look the track to the right but continue following at the information board by the church and the open valley SW. If you are tempted to cross consider what it was like to live here in the the open area behind the church, take care middle ages. as there are several streams under the snow. 1500m after the church the track enters the forest again and starts to climb steadily. The track through the forest is not always easy to follow but there are waymarks. If in doubt, stay to the right of the stream and left of the high crags until you reach the cross country & raquette piste near to lac de Balcere.

4 From lac de Balcere follow the obvious piste for 2.5k back to your car/navette.

4 If skiing is not your thing, why not combine this walk with some dog sledding in the Matte forest or a visit to the Parc Animalier at pla del Mir.

Mike Rhodes is an International Mountain Leader / Accompagnateur de Montagne, lives all year in Les Angles and specialises in guided walks in the high mountains and Snowshoe trips in winter.. He can be contacted on 0033(0)468043728 - [email protected] - www.pyrenean-trails.com 7 Didyouknow?

No one expects Wanted: the Medieval Inquisition! Short plump skis! The Cathars (believed to be derived from the Greek katharos, meaning perfect) It seems that young were a breakaway religious sect, who females are the most at spread their doctrine throughout the risk on the ski slopes; in region in the eleventh century, at a time fact they are 3.5 times more likely to when many Christians were questioning sprain a knee or ankle than the male their beliefs. of the species! Apparently, this is partly By the early thirteenth century it was down to the female form whose pelvis probably the majority religion in the is "horizontale" as well as over-reliance area, supported as much by the nobility on their quadriceps muscles and under as by the common people. The Roman reliance on their hamstrings. But never Church was outraged. Some of their own fear! You can now buy skis adapted priests had become Cathars and this was specifically to the female shape. No rude not to be tolerated. Worst of all, Cathars comments please! refused to pay their tithes. Pope Innocent III quickly proclaimed the religion heretic, and called for a crusade Lest We Forget ... to crush the Cathars. Men, women and children were massacred, the nobility Louis Torcatis was a primary school disgraced, humiliated and replaced and the ruins of the famous "Cathar castles" teacher, born in Tautavel in 1904. In (see p 22) are a sad heritage of the 1940, he joined the French Resistance violence that took over a region which under the pseudonym Bouloc and had, until then, always been known for became head of the secret army of its policy of tolerance. The Medieval Languedoc Roussillon. Hunted by Inquisition, infamous for their "robust" both the police and the Gestapo, interrogation and conviction methods of torture, was also set up to eradicate he was ambushed in May 1944, the last vestiges of Catharism. at Carmaux in the Tarn. Mortally It has been suggested in some modern wounded and left for dead, he fiction and non-fiction books that the managed nevertheless to drag himself Cathars could have been the protectors back to his waiting men and warn of the Holy Grail of Christian mythology. them of the dangers ahead. He is Cathar Christianity does still exist today in the form of various Fellowships buried in Pia. After his death, his scattered around the world and who widow created the Tourcatis bookshop knows what treasures might have been in Perpignan, still open today. passed on through the generations! 8 Frenchlife Buy "L’Argus" car magazine at any every six newsagent. It updates its prices months and is used by the motor trade for calculating car values, insurance is premiums and claims. La Centrale another good mag for defining 2nd hand car prices car.

Online, visit www.argusauto.com or www.321auto.com.

Buying a second hand car in France

Susie Hughes discovers that it’s not quite as easy as it sounds!

At the end of May, I hopped on a plane to Perpignan with two thousand crisp Euros in my back pocket, planning to visit a couple of 'car superstores, ' take my pick from the acres of gleaming second-hand cars and choose a three/four year old model with about 50,000 kilometres on the clock and 'one previous careful owner'. Oh, how naive that all seems now. The second-hand car market is a very different animal in France than in the UK.

Expectations : Private sales : 1. Expect to pay considerably more for a used The preferred mode for private sales seems car in the P-O; to be to stick an à Vendre notice in the car 2. Do not expect to find anything with less window with a phone number and, often, not than 100,000 km on the clock; much more information. 3. Do not expect to find a wide choice - it is not I tried to call a few of these without success. a buyer's market; Most of them were what I considered seriously 4. Expect your car to come with battle-scars; over-priced for what was on offer. For example, 5. Don't expect any sort of lengthy warranty I was quoted 4,000 Euros (non-negotiable) for (if at all); a seven year old Fiat Punto. 6. Prepare to devote three weeks of your life to the task; Dealers : 7. Find a French speaker with a car to assist Deciding that "caveat emptor" ("Let the buyer you in your task. beware") was advisable, I chose to buy 9 Frenchlife Before buying, check that the vehicle…. 4 has a contrôle technique (CT) certificate, if applicable. from a dealer as a safer option. Many of the 4 hasn’t been involved in a major accident. dealerships around Perpignan do a side-line in second-hand models, but these tend to be If in doubt, ask for a "déclaration sans limited and at the top end of the price-scale. accident/non-accidenté’" in writing. 4 is not under hire purchase ( certificat de After finding a suitable dealer and leaving my non-gage). "specifications", I quickly received a call to say 4 comes with a "certificat de non-opposition" that they had found "my car" - a 2002 Opal confirming that the vendor agrees to sell you Corsa, 120 000km on the clock, around 3,000 Euros. One careful previous owner! the car (i.e. you aren’tstealing it!). It seemed the bargain of a life-time. And it was diesel. Buying a diesel rather than a petrol car seems a huge plus-point. I think that, given the high mileages on second-hand cars, it is Carte grise : generally deemed that a diesel car is more The next stage is to acquire a carte grise - a reliable in the autumn of its life. sort of "log book", which must be done within My French speaking friend Daniel gave me a month. The equivalent procedure in the UK strict instructions as we went to see it. I would be to send the relevant forms of sale was not to jump up-and-down with joy the and purchase to the DVLC in Swansea. moment I saw it. I was merely to nod in his It’s not quite so straight forward. We had direction if I liked it and leave the negotiating to go to the local town hall with a range of to him. documents, including: Given that it was twice the age, had twice the 1. Bill of sale and purchase - transfer of mileage and was twice the price I’d anticipated ownership (the original!) This caused a bit of three weeks earlier, I thought I could restrain a problem as the only copy had my original myself. signature on a photocopy of the vendors. 2. "Old" carte grise, which you will have received from the vendor. Paperwork... 2. Proof of ID - ie passport. It is up to the seller to provide the buyer with 3. Proof of residency ie a utility bill. 4. Valid CT. the necessary paperwork. They can download 5. Driving licence. forms from the internet at www2.equipement. 6. Cheque book. gouv.fr/formulaires or pick them up at the Prefecture. Without these documents, you will The payment for a carte grise is a one-off be unable to apply for a new carte grise from and is based on the horse-power of your the préfecture, without which you will not be car. Mine was a four CV which equated to about 150 Euros. About ten days later and considered the legal owner of the vehicle. several phone calls to the town hall, I was 10 able to go and collect my carte grise and was now officially an owner-driver of a French car.

Conclusion : L’année the year Three months down the line my Le kilométrage the mileage little Opal Corse is still going Une voiture neuve / d’occasion a new/second-hand car strong. Maybe I was one of the lucky ones, I’ve certainly heard Un monospace a people-carrier several horror stories of second- Un break an estate car Useful vocab Useful hand car purchases which have Un quatre quatre a four-wheel drive ended in disaster at a high Un cabriolet a convertible price. As with any significant purchase, La puissance fiscale engine rating you need to do your homework, La climatisation air conditioning be patient, be prepared for the Un toît ouvrant a sunroof worst and avoid it before it happens.

11 Festivalandtradition

Christmas Visit our site www.anglophone-direct.com in Catalonia for a detailed description of Le caga tió What’s on around the region. The caga tió (literally "poop log"!!), is a hollow log standing up Caganers on four little stick legs with Look out for the caganer, (the pooper!!), a a smiley face small statue of a Catalonian peasant, wearing painted on one end and red "barretina" hat. traditional red stocking hat (a barretina,) and, From December 8th, he is "fed" every night sitting, with trousers half down, in a "toilet" and on Christmas Day, beaten with sticks to position, making his small contribution to make him drop the sweets and torrons (turrón the land, often smoking a pipe or reading a in Spanish and torró in Catalan) placed inside newspaper! He will usually be found crouching him. in the Pessebre, adding a rather comical aspect to this traditional scene. The Caganer is one of a type of small figures Pessebres vivants called "santons" (coming from the Provençal santoun or "little saint") which became popular El Pessebre is a representation of the Nativity in Provence after the French Revolution of Story. A "pessebre vivant" consists of real 1789 when churches were closed and Nativity people acting out living Nativity scenes, scenes were banned. They gave a chance to dressed in period costumes on decorated ordinary people to "bring religion home" by stage-sets portraying traditional, historical and setting up crèches in their own homes, a biblical scenes. Sometimes they will also sing tradition previously reserved for the rich. The and talk, other times they will just stand or sit most famous santons portray without moving! common Provençal folk in In some of these creations, there will be a 18th and 19th century clothes commentary and spectacular special effects and who visit the Holy Family and lighting. bring presents.

The "caganer" and the "caga tió" may explain this Catalan saying "menja bé, caga fort i no tinguis por a la mort!" (Eat well, poo strong and don’t be afraid of death!). 12 Christmas January… & New Year… Over the border

Ski season The official opening of the majority of ski resorts in the PO is usually around the first weekend of December, depending of course on the snow forecast. The 6th December is "Le Saint Nicolas" and the 8th is " l’Immaculée Conception", both of which We three kings… are festival days and bank holidays in Spain. La cavalcade des Rois Mages St. Nicholas of Myra, Turkey, was born in 271 AD This is a big celebration for and died around December, 342 or 343 AD. He was children, telling of the arrival of known for his kindness, generosity, and secret gift- the kings who lavish children giving, being a shy man, and when he died, all sorts of with toys and sweets. Children stories were told of the wonderful things he had done go to bed and leave shoes and during his life, a perfect role model for the future Santa a snack near the window or on Claus! He is also the patron saint of judges, murderers, the balcony. On the morning pawnbrokers, thieves, merchants, paupers, scholars, of the 6th, they find the gifts sailors, bakers, travellers, maidens and poor children!! left by the kings, sometimes A heavy workload for even the most saintly saint. accompanied by a piece of coal, if they have not been well The Immaculate Conception was established as a behaved! Catholic feast day in 1476 by Pope Sixtus IV. Over that weekend, the Spanish often make a long weekend of it In the first week of January - and the ski season gets off to a festive beginning. Not (check exact dates with tourist a good weekend to pop across the border for a spot of office) the three kings will ride shopping of course as the shops will be closed! through the streets of Perpignan on horse and camel back, New Year collecting letters from children, As the twelve strokes of midnight sound on the which will be read out at the 31st December, the Spaniards pop a grape into Campo Santo. The procession their mouth with each bong to bring good luck will also contain "gégants", giant for the 12 months ahead. Much hilarity, spitting painted papier-maché figures, and dribbling starts the New Year off in style! sometimes 14 or 15 ft tall, with (Seedless grapes recommended if you are traditional clothing and a person thinking of going Spanish this New year!) inside. 13 Festivalandtradition January… La Fête des Rois February La Fête des Rois also celebrates the 3 kings, this time with a frangipane based cake, the galette des rois! The festival takes Fête de l’Ours place around Epiphany, the twelfth day of Christmas, when the wise men visited baby • 7th February 2010 : Arles-sur-Tech • 14th February 2010 : St-Laurent-de-Cerdans Jesus. According to tradition, the galette • 14th - 16th February 2010 : Prats-de-Mollo des rois, was to "draw the kings" to the Epiphany. During the French Revolution, Prats-de-Mollo, Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans the name was replaced with Gâteau de and Arles-sur-Tech come out of hibernation l'Égalité (Equality cake), as the word "king" in style in February, with the Fête de l’Ours. was hardly in fashion!

A lucky charm (une fève - originally a bean but now more often a plastic trinket) is baked inside the galette des rois, and shared around the table. Whoever receives the fève is then crowned king or queen for the day . According to tradition, the cake should be cut into as many slices as there are people present, plus 1 extra. This extra slice is called the part du pauvre (poor man’s slice) and should be According to legend, a young shepherdess offered to the first poor person who walks was spirited away by a bear, actually the in through the door! devil in disguise, who intended to seduce (Tip: Watch out for your teeth if you are her and steal her virginity. The young the lucky winner of the slice with the fève!) damsel however, prayed to Notre Dame du Coral to preserve her virtue, and the bear was unable to approach her. She was finally rescued on the jour de la Chandeleur, (Candelmas) and the bear was killed! The re-enactment of this legend in Prats-de-Mollo and nearby communes is great fun. In a frenzied bear hunt though the streets, the "bears", men and women dressed in sheep skins, their faces 14 and hands blackened with a mixture of suie (soot) and huile (oil), flee the hunters who carry shot guns filled with blanks and a gourd of bon vin. With much hilarity, the hommes en blanc or barbiers, covered in flour and dressed in white with lace bonnets, intervene to bait the bear! Armed with heavy chains, axe, botifarra (locally made black pudding!!) and a cuvette (basin), they chain up the "bears" and take them to the place du Foiral, accompanied by the cobla (traditional Catalan music) where they are "shaved" and "humanised" It’s Carnival time! by the barbiers, using the axe for a razor and the black pudding for What better way to liven up the dreary winter soap. months than to declare carnival time? The day of the bear finishes with a Bal de Corre in which bears, February and March are carnival months in the hunters and barbers dance around PO. Most of the larger towns and communes in a frenzied circle until a gun shot have processions and parades through the rings out and the bears fall to the streets. Watch out for the burning of the straw- ground. filled Carnival king, symbol for infertility, sins, and bad luck – an important character in the traditions of modern carnival, who is burned in a spectacular ritual at the end of the festivities.

Check out www.anglophone-direct.com for dates and programmes. 15 Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B

16 Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B -Food - Drink - B&B

17 Restaurant reviews with John Frazer-Robinson Worth the Drive! Falgos

Golfers please excuse the pun from our new Restaurant Reviewer, John Frazer-Robinson, who steps into the shoes of John Fairclough and visits Le Domaine de Falgos near Saint Laurent de Cerdans.

4 Here’s the deal – a great day out spoiling yourself in the fitness centre and spa with three course lunch including house wine and coffee for €35 a head (varies slightly by season). It would be difficult to find a more beautiful setting. Not the most accessible location but that’s a small point amply repaid by the magnificence of the views and the benefits of swimming in a near empty pool and the hot tubs and sauna available for afters!

4 We started with salads, two smoked duck and foie gras, two chèvre which came with a slice of Serrano ham. Portions were ample and tasty, and the foie gras excellent. The dressing was delicious and all were topped with an interesting mix of nuts and pine kernels.

4 Mains were one perch, one lamb chops, one entrecote and vegetarian Debbie had 18 Foodanddrink

Food *** Wine ** Price **** Service**** Ambience/Location ***** ratatouille and chips! Again we were more 4 The quart than happy with the fare and the portions and, of house wine included for each was very despite no enquiry as to how we would like the drinkable. And for the more discerning there meat cooked, it was pink and fine throughout. is a pretty good choice. By now, we were To follow Elaine had ice cream, three balls replete and ordered our coffees. So was this chosen from a good range of flavours and the a remarkable lunch? Probably not. But look at rest of us polished off millefeuille. Ice creams the overall package and ask yourself "would declared ecstatic. Millefeuille? Well, two went you go again"? I have to say ABSOLUTELY! The down a storm but I gave up deciding the value offered including the surroundings, the portion too large and a bit bland. Although free use of the spa, the lounge and heavenly I don’t generally do puds, for reasons of walks make it irresistible for a return visit. journalistic integrity, I did try! And I don’t play golf!

19 OUT FOR THE DAY Font Romeu Odeillo

ont Romeu was a fashionable ski Fstation in the XIX century at the time of the Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel still dominates the town but is now split combined with a low level of pollution, plus into apartments. Font Romeu remains a highly sparkling snow and fairy tale pine forests, make successful ski station, twinned with Pyrenees sporting exertion positively delightful. 2000 to offer 60 downhill pistes and 100 km of cross country was well as paragliding, boarding, ith 3000 hours of sunshine a year, fabulous snow shoe walking, husky sledge riding and Wviews over the Pyrenean peaks and quad vtts. situated on the high Cerdagne Plateau in the heart of the French Pyrenees, Font Romeu is the perfect winter holiday resort. As well as a lively local life to enjoy there is the fun of visiting the Spanish enclave of Llivia, a curiosity formed in 1659 at the signing of the treaty of the Pyrenees when the present day borders were formed between France and Spain, Catalonia South and Catalonia North.

n 1968 it was the site chosen to Itrain French athletes for the Mexico Olympics and remains the “Centre National d'Entrainement en Altitude” for athletes of all disciplines to this day. Small wonder it has been voted “Ville la Plus Sportive 2009” by the sporting magazine L’Equipe. And what a wonderfully healthy resort in which to enjoy being sportive. The high altitude Mediterranean climate 20 OUT FOR THE DAY

fter centuries of fighting and disagreement t is to Odeillo one has to go to visit the Four Athe Pyrenees were named as the true ISolaire. Created by Felix Thrombe in 1969, border bringing Roussillon, the Vallespir, the 63 heliostats direct the rays of the sun onto a Conflent, Capcir and thirty-three villages of parabolic mirror of almost 2000 square metres. the Cerdagne under French rule. By a strange The solar energy can produce temperatures in quirk of fate it was decreed that Llivia, in the Cerdagne, was not a village but a town and so there remains, inside France, a small enclave of Spanishness. For those dedicated to relaxation there are the natural hot baths at nearby Llo, Dorres or St Thomas. In Font Romeu the casino/ cinema/disco adds glamour and the town is full of hotels, bars, restaurants… and… sports shops… Tourist Office:04 68306830.

he name Font Romeu signifies T“Pilgrim’s fountain”. According to legend, Notre Dame de Font Romeu was discovered by a cowherd whose bull was scratching at some water and bellowing loudly. The cowherd went to investigate and found a statue excess of 3200 degrees Centigrade. of the Virgin. The There is a permanent exhibition on Fountain of the renewable energy and the role of Pilgrim is to be the Four Solaire in scientific research. found in the chapel 04 6830 7786 of the XVII Hermitage at the top of the town and can he immense parabolic mirror, tall as be visited by checking times with the Tthe Arc de Triumph in Paris, reflects Tourist Office. The fountain immured in the the countryside and sky, giving an ever walls of the chapel fills an interior basin in changing patchwork view of the surrounding which the pilgrims bathe. Sunyer is responsible countryside that is beautiful and fascinating for the magnificent altar. to watch… 21 OUT FOR THE DAY

Cathar Country A day out in Cathar Country: Three fantastic medieval castles, three of the “five sons of Carcasonne.”

Quéribus n 1258, with the Treaty Iof Corbeil, Quéribus, Peyrepertuse and Puilaurens were right on the frontier between France and Aragon. The HQ was Carcasonne and, with Aguilar and Thermes, they were known as the “five sons of Carcasonne”. Veritable eagles nests, owned by noblemen sympathetic to the Cathar religion, they became the last resort for the Cathars as the Albigensian Crusade threatened to wipe them off the face of the earth.

t is possible to visit all three Iin a very full day but, to be honest, they warrant considerably longer.

erched on their Pu n b e l i e v a b l e mountainous rocky outcrops, the castles of Quéribus and Peyrepertuse dominate the beautiful rolling vineyards of Maury and Cucugnan. From Estagel take the N117 towards 22 OUT FOR THE DAY

Maury and follow the signs to Cucugnan. As Peyrepertuse you climb the Grau of Maury towards the border with the Aude you will see Château de Quéribus on the right, built on its 728m high rocky pinnacle in the XI Century.

he last stronghold Tof the Cathar defence, it fell in 1255. Hard to imagine a more dominant stronghold. It has overlooked the Corbieres, Fenouilledes and Plains of Roussillon for centuries, guarding the mountain pass of the Grau de Maury. A mere 15 – 20 men were all that was required t continued to be enlarged and improved to man the castle, so clever were its systems Iuntil 1659 when the border changed and of defence. it lost its strategic importance. However it t remains to this day a monument to the remained in use till the Revolution when it Idramatic events that have marked the was deserted by the fleeing nobles and, like turbulent history of this border country. so many other French castles, was sold to the State. rom Quéribus Château de Peyrepertuse is ow it can be visited and enjoyed. It Feasily visible, an amazing fortress seeming Nappears inaccessible but from the ticket to grow out of sheer rock on the skyline. office a 1/4 hours narrow, shady walk through the scented box brings you to the entrance ight hundred metres high, occupied keep of San Jordi. The steep steps of Saint Esince Roman times, the castle itself is first Louis, cut into the rock, lead to the chapel of mentioned in1070 when it was owned by the St Jordi from which, clearly visible is Château Catalan Counts of Besalú. It formed an important de Quéribus, the Forca Real and the lookout part of the Cathar defences and a secret passage tower of Tautaval. History oozes from the ending in a movable ladder afforded vital access. ancient walls and in spring cowslips and It can still be found, the last part of the climb a fritillaries flower between fallen stones. vertiginous cliff “voie escalade”… 23 OUT FOR THE DAY

Puilaurens de Bourbon was reputed to have stayed on her way south to her ill-fated marriage with Peter of Castile, has a duct through the wall that acts as a speaking tube. Aged fourteen in 1353, after three days of marriage, Peter abandoned her in favour of Maria de Padilla, imprisoning poor Blanche, who, at the age of twenty two, was assassinated. One can only hope she made good use of her speaking tube and enjoyed the marvellous ack to the N117 and on to St Paul de views over the village, the 1904 railway viaduct BFenouillet, cross into the Aude after and the Forest of Fanges from the battlements. Caudies de Fenouilledes and follow the road Of course she was too early to have seen the to Lapradelle. Château de Puilaurens rises railway... high above the village and the valley of the Boulzane. A noble and fairytale castle, it is easily accessible by a 20 minute shaded walk from Porte Blanche the car-park. The area is rich with evidence of human habitation since Palaeolithic times and “Mont Ardu” the old name of the mountain on which the castle stands appears on a map dated 958.

t was used by the Cathars for refuge in 1245/46 Iand, as with the other “sons of Carcasonne”, was one of the main border defences and setting for endless battles between the French and the Spanish. After the border changed it was maintained for a while by a feeble garrison of veterans before falling into disrepair and disuse. Now the castle is cared for and fascinating to visit.

he Square Tower dates from the time of Tthe Crusade against the Cathars. The so- called “White Lady” Tower, where Blanche 24 OUT FOR THE DAY

OUT FOR THE DAY

In the Carol Valley

ollow the Carol valley from Bourg Madame t is farming country. The mountain meadows Fto the Col de Puymorens and the end Iare full of sturdy horses, peaceful cattle graze of the Pyrenees Orientales. It is grand and and, higher up are sheep and small shelters for beautiful. High mountains form the frontier the shepherds. with Andorra, huge granite boulders and small he ski resort of Porte Puymorens has 16 waterfalls are scattered down their sides to the Tpistes for skiing of all levels and 21 kms of cross country. Para ski-ing and snow boarding enthusiasts are also catered for. t is a valley opening into vast open spaces, Ithere are lakes and tiny villages of sombre grey stone houses with fish scale roof tiles, and all around the towering mountains form a spectacular backdrop. he towers of Carol are actually not in Latour Tde Carol although an interesting church is. To find them it is necessary to go further up the valley to Carol itself. At 1300 metres, although in ruins, they still stand guard on their rocky banks of the fast running Carol river. A single promontory above the village. track railway snakes through the valley beside he road winds its way up to the 1900 metre it. Latour de Carol is the last station stop of the TCol de Puymorens before plunging down Yellow Train, and from there connecting trains either to Pas de la Casa in Andorra or into the take you Toulouse or Barcelona. Arriege. 25 OUT FOR THE DAY

Céret he cherry capital of TFrance lies up the Tech valley on the N115. Céret has the right to send the first crate of cherries to the President of France and, in the cherry season, little stalls laden with the fruit appear

outside every garage. There is a cherry festival and the surrounding orchards are a froth of white blossom in spring and a sea of rich red and russet leaves in autumn.

éret is also the birthplace of Cubism. CPicasso and Braques worked together in 1911, researching and inventing “Cubism”. Céret’s wonderful Museum of Modern Art, started by the artist Pierre Brune in 1950 has a permanent collection of both internationally famous and local artists including 78 pieces by Picasso, 57 of which were gifts of the artist. Each summer it stages an impressive exhibition, often of the work of famous XX century artists who were influenced by a sojourn there. Not only Picasso and Braques but Matisse, Gris, Max Jacob, Marquet, Maillol, Manolo, Chagall, Dufy, Miro and Dali have all fallen under the charm of this gentle Catalan town.

26 OUT FOR THE DAY

he Saturday Market beneath the huge 30 Tmetre high plane trees attracts visitors from far and wide. The old ramparts, the grand city gates, the Place des Neuf Jets with its attractive fountain and choice of cafes and restaurants, all make Céret a delightful town through which to stroll.

hree bridges span the Tech in Céret. The Trailway bridge, the road one and, 22 metres high, the XIV century Devil’s bridge. By far the most attractive, it was supposedly built by the devil in 1321 in exchange for the soul of the first Ceretian to cross. The engineer sent a cat

across first but, even so, the locals at the time were very wary of using its single 45 metre arch.

n the summer there are many Ifestivals including Bull fighting, Classical Music and Sardanne dancing. Tourist Office 046887 0053

27 OUT FOR THE DAY

Rainy days

n the P O rain is rare and days without Isunshine are unusual, few and far between. Here are some ideas of how to make the most of them: Cinzano, Dubonnet, Ambassadeur and Suze are made and matured in the 600 huge oak barrels huir, a lively town, full of sculpture and that line the chais leading to the biggest oak Tgood restaurants, is probably most famous barrel in the world. 10 metres high it contains for the Caves Byrrh: A veritable cathedral to 420,500 litres. A fascinating guided tour takes Aperitifs, it was started by the Violet family you through the station concourse, shows you more than 100 years ago. Simon Violet began how the wines are flavoured and fortified to manufacturing his Byrrh, from local wine, make the aperitifs, passes by evocative old aromatic plants and quinine in 1866. Instantly advertising posters and ends with a tasting. popular, a station hall was ordered from the Open 7/7. Res: 0468530542. www.byrrh.com Gustave Eiffel workshops. From it 30 million litres made their way annually to 350,000 hy not get wet in the rain at customers world-wide. Now, not only Byrrh but Wone of the naturally Hot Baths? At St Thomas les Bains, up the N116, direction Andorra, left on the CD28 just after Fontpedrouse, are three open air baths of hot mineral waters cooled to 37 degrees. Together with the hammam, the jacuzzi and a series of massage treatments they make it the perfect place to relax in calm serenity, surrounded by high mountains and stunning scenery. Open 7/7 Check times and book treatments on: 0468970313 o find the Baths of Llo turn left at TSaillagousse on the N116 between Mont Louis and Bourg Madame Hot, sulphurous, well organised, they are open most of the year. They offer both open air and indoor swimming in water at 37 degrees, they too have a jacuzzi, hammam, bar and sauna and are surrounded by beautiful scenery and much snow in winter. 04 68047455. 28 OUT FOR THE DAY

stage of the old wine vault. 04 6850 0218 r try the Roman Baths of Dorres. Rather It is signposted off the Macdonalds roundabout Omore rustic than Llo or St Thomas, at the end of Bvd Kennedy nevertheless, lying in the 42 degree water and enjoying the magnificent view of Carlit’s peak, aint Laurent and the chain of mountains separating France Sde Cerdans, from Spain, is rather special. 04 6804 6687 off the N115 for opening hours. (Between Bourg Madame after Arles sur and Envieg take the D618 then the D10 to Tech has a super- Dorres.) i n t e r e s t i n g Museum of Traditional Crafts 04 6839 5575. The local skill of espadrille making is well represented and there is a moving exhibition of the history of the Republican retreat from the Spanish Civil War. A display of old movie equipment and a great collection of cinema posters lead on to many pictures of the Bear Festivals for which St Laurent is famous.

hile in St Laurent, the factory and factory he Art Centre of St Vicens where ceramics, Wshop of the beautiful striped Catalan Tpaintings and tapestries fill an exhuberant fabric, the “Toiles du Soleil”, is an essential Aladin’s cave of artistic treasures in the old visit: 0468395002. The vibrant colours of the vaulted wine cave of Mas St Vicens in the St cloth emerging from the ancient industrial Gaudrique quarter of Perpignan is well worth revolution machines in the Dickensian factory visiting. At Christmas, (most of December in behind the shop are a marvel. It can be bought fact), a spectacular Creche, created in the by the metre or as cushions, table mats and Sant Vicens workshops takes up the main napkins, table cloths and teddy bears.

Here are a few more ideas. All worth visiting, ring to check opening hours. - The Modern Art Museum in Ceret 0468872776 -The Aquarium at Banyuls sur Mer 0468887373 - The Church and Cloisters of St Genis des Fontaines 0468898433 - The Museum of Catalan Agriculture in St Michel de Llotes 0468847640 - The Museum of Prehistory at Belesta 0468845555 - The Grottes des Grandes Canalettes at Villefranche de Conflent 0468962311 29 TestyourFrench Virelangue Trente-trois très gros crapauds crados 33 very fat dirty toads

1 E for egg! Match up these words, all beginning with E, with their definitions.

construction pour faire des travaux en hauteur 1 a échalote

2 b embaucher petit essai du produit Quel animal a engager pour un travail 3 c entracte six pattes et petit oignon 4 d écureuil marche sur la tête? abri pour les chevaux 5 e étranger Un pou personne qui vient d’un autre pays 6 f épave

mannequin qui fait fuir les oiseaux. 7 g échafaudage (un pou petit mammifère rongeur roux or gris. 8 h épouvantail a louse) bateau au fond de la mer 9 i échantillon

pause entre deux parties d’un spectacle 10 j écurie

Christmas joke 4 "Coup" Comment s’appelle un chat tombé dans un What a great word in French! On its pot de peinture le jour de Noël ? own, it means "hit," "blow," "strike" Un chat peint de Noël... but combine it with another word (Sapin de Noel – Christmas tree) and it has so many completely different meanings. Here are just a 4 Naughty, naughty ! few.. A few choice expressions NOT to use coup d'oeil - glance with your grandmother! coup de soleil - sunburn Ta gueule! (tagirl)– shut yer gob! coup de chance - stroke of luck Casse-toi! (kass-twah) – get lost coup de couteau - stab wound Putain – (putenn) - exclamation coup de feu - gun shot equivalent to "oh cr-p!" coup de fil - phone call C’est le bordel – (say luh-bordell) - coup de foudre - love at first sight what a mess (literally "It’s a brothel!) coup de main - helping hand coup de pied – a kick coup de tête - headbutt Answers to 'Test your French' PO Life n°25 coup de tonnerre - clap of thunder 1 1f 2j 3h 4b 5a 6i 7c 8e 9d 12g coup de vent - gust of wind 30 2 1c 2f 3j 4a 5i 6g 7b 8h 9d 10e Remplissez les blancs 2 Quand le bus arrive dans le 1 de Perpignan, une superbe 2 en mini jupe est la 3 dans la queue, et monte 4 (direction l’Espagne) en montrant deux belles 5. Assise sur un 6 pas loin de l’7 du bus, une femme 8 dit à son Test your French slang! 3 mari: bousiller 1 a to burn Tu ne trouves pas cela 9 comment les chouette 2 b disgusting hommes regardent les 10 de cette fille qui une clope 3 c policeman monte dans le bus? Le mari répond : "Quel bus ?" cramer 4 d cigarette 1 dedans - 2 première - 3 cuisses - 4 arrêt -5 dégueulasse 5 e clothes honteux - 6 centre - 7 fesses - 8 blonde - 9 dingue 6 f to ruin

indignée - 10 banc un flic 7 g crazy

un(e) frangin(e) 8 h brother or sister

le fric 9 i lovely

les fringues 10 j money

1f 2j 3h 4b 5a 6i 7c 8e 9d 12g 1c 2f 3j 4a 5i 6g 7b 8h 9d 10e 31 AméliorezvotreAnglais

Trouvez la definition de ces mots d’argot anglais… Trouvez la définition 1 de ces abréviations bangers 1 a une fille d’usage courant (les répon- Ta! 2 b un petit gâteau ses sont ci-dessous mais ne trichez

a bikkie 3 c bête pas…. Je vous surveille !) 2

a bimbo 4 d rien AKA 1 a généraliste

a bird 5 e fou ASAP 2 b absent sans prévenir

zilch 6 f merci GP. 3 c pour info

yobbo 7 g des saucisses Ltd 4 d sandwich au bacon

tiddly 8 h un voyau AWOL 5 e société anonyme

thick 9 i un peu saoul BLT 6 f un peu de tendresse

barmy 10 j belle femme peu intelligente ! FYI 7 g aussi connu sous le nom de.. TLC 8 h dès que possible 4 Language tip! Attention ! Ces mots ne changent jamais dans le pluriel en anglais ….et les voilà advice - conseils Also Known As As Soon As Possible clothing - vêtements General practicioner furniture - meubles Limited. rubbish - déchets, ordures Absent Without Official Leave homework - devoirs Bacon, lettuce and tomato information - reseignements For your information knowledge - connaissances Tender Loving Care pasta – pâtes

4 How to make the perfect cup of tea 3 Tongue twister Put these instructions for making a perfect cup of tea into the right order Flo thought three free fish 1. Add milk and sugar if required were fine 2. Enjoy your cuppa 3.Pour the tea into the cup 4.Bring the kettle to the boil 5.Fill the kettle with fresh water Réponses d'Améliorez votre Anglais PO Life n° 25 6.Put the tea in the teapot. 7. Leave the tea to brew for five minutes 1 1c 2h 3e 4i 5f 6a 7j 8d 9g 10b 8.Warm teapot with hot water and pour away 2 1g 2e 3j 4a 5d 6c 7h 8f 9b 10i 9.Pour the boiling water into the teapot 32 3 1d 2e 3f 4g 5c 6b 7a F is for fish! Trouvez les définitions de ces mots suivants, qui commencent tous par F

Birds have these 1 a Fahrenheit 4 Tables, chairs, beds…. 2 b fall

Machines that makes a breeze. 3 c fan

Bread is made from this 4 d feather

Above eyebrows and below hairline. 5 e file

A measure of temperature l 6 f foal

Pretty explosions in the sky 7 g fireworks

A young horse 8 h furniture

Used to smooth things 9 i flour

This may happen if you lose your balance 10 j forehead

Daft joke Doctor, Doctor I feel like a sheep. Oh dear, that's baaaaaaaaaaaad!

33 Charities Les riches auront de la nourriture, les pauvres de l'appétit. Coluche

There but for the grace of god.... "How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world." Anne Frank.

There are several charitable organisations around the region who would be very happy to accept your donations, house clearances etc. Here is a glimpse into the origins of three of these charitable associations who hope you will be thinking of them this winter.

4 J'ai une petite idée’….. you look it up in the dictionary but I will loosely Les Restos du Coeur Les translate it as the "rascals"), some of France's Restos du Coeur is a French biggest stars who performed in an annual charitable association benefit concert whilst he was alive, continue which provides food packages and free meals today to meet up for concerts throughout to the poor and homeless, organised and France, donating proceeds to the Restos du served up by 45 000 volunteers around France. Cœur. By doing so, they prompt the media There were 417 such volunteers in the PO last to explain the goals of the organisation and year and more are always welcome, particularly remind people of where they can donate or if you have a skill such as IT, painting, help with volunteer. form filling… that you are able to pass on. Today, the organisation has 18 centres in the The concept was originally launched by P-O and is expecting to distribute more than popular French comedian Coluche, in August a million meals over the 2009 – 2010 winter 1985 on a radio programme. It quickly period. They also run Les Restos bébés du cœur became the ’in’ thing to support and was for children, and are always in need of baby backed by television and pop stars, products and clothing, high chairs, prams, artists, sports personalities, media toys….. and politicians throughout As well as donations of food, furniture, cutlery France. The death in 1986 of and crockery and of course any financial aid, this big hearted clown only Les Restos du Coeur badly need vehicles and strengthened the resolve more space for storage, so if you have a large of his many famous friends empty building available, they would love to to continue to support hear from you! the cause that he had 27 rue Monticelli 66000 PERPIGNAN Tel 04 created. Les Enfoirés, 68 85 04 53 - [email protected] (a rather rude word if - http://66.restosducoeur.org 34 4 Emmaus unable to be ’merry’ at Christmas, due to Emmaus was founded in poverty or other circumstances. You should see Paris in 1949 by Father evidence of him all over the region over the Henri-Antoine Groues, Christmas period. Catholic priest, MP and Created in 1945, the Secours populaire français former member of the is one of the most active charities in France, French Resistance during WW2. He was better dedicated amongst other things, to exclusion known by his resistance name of Abbé Pierre. problems related to children and poor families, When a desperate, suicidal man came to him for provision of food and clothing, professional help, he took him in and asked him to join in his integration, access to culture, sports, hobbies, mission to help the homeless. Georges became health, holidays, defense of human rights... the first of a group of Emmaus Companions Find out more at www.secourspopulaire.fr supported by and living in the home of Abbé Pierre, working to build temporary homes for those in need. When the money ran out, Abbé 4 The AFM Telethon Pierre toured the restaurants and businesses of (l’Association Française contre les Myopathies Paris begging for donations. His companions et les maladies neuromusculaires) were outraged. There had to be another A yearly event, taking place way. They became rag and bone men, going this year on the 4th &5th December, the AFM through bins, collecting people’s unwanted Telethon is France’s major fund-raising event. items and selling them on….and so Emmaus Behind the fun and entertainment is the raising was born. of funds to support AFM’s research programs Donate any unwanted items by taking them and services for people with neuromuscular along yourself or arrange for larger items to diseases and to inform the general public be collected. about rare genetic disorders. Mas Garria, Pollestres - 04 68 54 59 60 For those who fight every day against a devastating disease, each Telethon is a new step on the road to victory over these diseases. 4 « Tout ce qui est humain est Your donation will help accelerate research nôtre » (« all that is human is ours ») progress and raise patients’ hopes. If you happen to come across a green Father Christmas, 4 SPA Santa has not gone ’bio’! He is the ’Pere Noel … and please don’t forget the SPA (Societé du Secours Populaire’ and his job is not to hand Protectrice des Animaux) and the many animal out presents but to collect them. refuges around the region who are desperately The Père Noel du Secours Populaire has been in need of support this winter. giving the real Papa Noel a hand since 1976. Refuge SPA Le Jardin de la Padrine - Torreilles He is green ’comme l’espérance’ and hands Route de Villelongue 66440 TORREILLES Tel: 04 68 28 20 36 out happiness in his aim to provide Christmas Refuge SPA de Perpignan - Lieu dit la Llabanère 66000 PERPIGNAN festivities and presents for families who are Tel: 04 68 57 20 43 35 Winter warmth Some funny equivalents... Filer à l'Anglaise - to take French leave Une capote anglaise - a french letter CHOOSING YOUR WOOD FOR YOUR WOODBURNER by Gill Storey

Rating 10 corresponds to wood which gives the greatest heat per dm3 (litre) and 5 to the wood which only gives half as much heat. All firewood must of course be properly dried and stored carefully.

GOOD Charme (Hornbeam) 10 Chêne (Oak) 9.9 Frêne (Ash) 9.2 Érable (Maple) 9.1 Bouleau (Birch) 8.9 Orme (Elm) 8.4 Hêtre (Beech) 8

AVERAGE Saule (Willow) 7.1 Sapin (Fir and Pine) 7 Comment appelle-t-on Aulne (Alder) 6.7 un boomerang qui ne Pin Sylvestre (Scots Pine) 6.7 revient pas ? Mélèze (Larch) 6.6 Un bout du bois Tremble (Aspen) 6.5 Tilleul (Lime) 5.7 Peuplier (Poplar) 5

It is best to order wood from your wood merchant in early summer, as the price may go up later in the season. Make sure that you buy seasoned firewood that has been cut and dried out for at least a year, as freshly cut wood has a very high moisture content and will leave creosote deposits in your chimney. Wood is sold by the stère (cubic metre) and there are 1000 dm3 in a stère. The price varies with its efficiency as heating material. It can be ordered by length (usually 50cm) although some stoves may take shorter lengths of wood. 36 There’s no smoke without fire

Fire damage resulting from a chimney fire is one of the most common insurance claims in France. Any chimney that is in use needs to be swept at least once per year. Many insurers will NOT pay out for fire damage without a cleaning certificate ("certificat de ramonage") which your chimney sweep (ramoneur) will leave you when he cleans your chimney. Of course, the most important reason for keeping your chimney clean is the risk of fire and the danger of breathing in carbon monoxide which stays in the house instead of being released through the chimney

Airconditioning Bathroom equipment Heating Renewable energy

Heating maintenance Since 9th June 2009, it has been compulsory to maintain your boiler on an annual basis, whether it be oil, gas, wood, pellets…… Of course it is also in your best interest to respect this legal requirement, as a badly maintained boiler uses more fuel and can become polluting and dangerous in the long run. During our inspection, we check the levels of carbon monoxide (gas responsible for many deaths) and nitrogen oxide (NOX) As well as traditional heating, (oil, gas…) we also specialise in the installation of renewable energy systems : Solar panels, Heat pumps, Installation of wood and pellet boilers We are happy to discuss with you and explore all possibilities to reduce your fuel consumption and limit the impact of your heating on the environment. English spoken. 37 Spotlighton

The post office

A great place for a gossip

The French village post office is a bit of a national institution. The fact that you can still find one in most small villages is really rather nice, particularly given that they offer banking with very low charges and a widening range of services.

However, if you don’t wish to hear about the Moving house? state of Mme Dupont’s chilblains or the results The post office will either redirect your of M. Leblanc’s latest miracle haemaroid post to a temporary or permanent address cream, you may prefer to choose, buy and (réexpédition du courrier) or hold on to it at print out your stamps on line at www.laposte. the post office until you are ready to collect com. (English-language site). it. (garde du courrier). You may also arrange There are 200 different stamp designs to choose for your post to be sent directly to the post from, and you can even create your own stamps office if you do not yet have an official address with personal photos of the dog, the mother- (poste restante). in-law…You will also find a calculator on the site to help you to work out how much postage Post codes: your letter or parcel requires, dependant on The first two numbers of the post code weight and destination. represent the département (66) and the last Alternatively, many post offices have three show the commune. automatic stamp machines (coins only) with instructions available in English. These allow you to weigh letters and packages and accusé de réception aknowledgment of receipt issue postage in the form of the appropriate adresse de réexpédition forwarding address vignettes d'affranchissement. timbre stamp

Registered mail : destinataire inconnu unknown If you wish the recipient of your letter or parcel expéditeur sender to sign at the other end, send it recommandé.

Useful vocab Useful guichet counter If you would also like to receive confirmation that the recipient has signed and accepted port payé postage paid the mail, it should be sent as recommandé retour à l'envoyeur return to sender avec accusé de réception. This is particularly colis parcel recommended if you are sending valuable items, legal documents or anything that might enveloppe prêt à poster paid envelope later lead to dispute. la levée collection 38 39 Spotlighton...

Winter Sports in the High Pyrenées!

A December, January or February day out in the mountains can be pretty invigorating. So easy to drive up or take the bus or Yellow Train. All the Pyrenean resorts are super friendly and very family orientated. The skiing may not be quite as challenging as the Alps but the slopes are well tended and, for the middle to beginner skier, perfect. Booking is certainly recommended for the Christmas and Half Term school holidays.

Les Neiges Catalanes offers a fixed price ticket cross country ski runs through breathtaking for 8 resorts and 4 cross country areas giving scenery are long and varied. access to 288 kms of Alpine skiing, Snow shoeing (Randonnées en 107 ski lifts, 1330, 360 kms of cross Raquettes) can be fun. (See the country, 13 ski schools and 10 snow walk on page 6). Snow shoes parks. 1330 snow blowers make used to be used by trappers sure you will have plenty of snow and fur traders. Although forest even if the winter is a mild one. rangers still wear them, their www.neigescatalanes.com use has become predominantly For boarders the snow parks have recreational, the freedom they half pipes, slide kick and box ramps galore and give enabling one to get around areas of the region is famous for its competitions. The deep snowfall. Take a guide and rediscover 40 the tracks of wild animals and birds, enjoy the pretty exciting! The sun, the thermals and the calm rhythm of the countryside and closeness Tramontane all combine to make C.KITE on to nature. Mike and Jenny Rhodes of Pyrenean 0614598087 another must ring number for an Trails www.pyrenean-trails.com can not only extraordinary winter sporting experience. accompany you but can arrange a lunchtime Ski ’n co will fly you tandem for an unforgettable barbeque picnic halfway through the day view of the mountains and teach you all you or an overnight in a mountain refuge in the need to know about winter paragliding… majestic scenery they know so well. Vol’aime (0468301010) also arrange paragliding courses for all levels If the sky is not to your taste you could go diving beneath the ice of Lake Matmale with the Rederis dive club of Banyuls sur Mer. Contact Gilles on 06 11 58 52 28 for a bit of plongée sous glace! All year round the Parc Animalier offers the opportunity to see many of the animals of the Pyrenees in their natural surroundings. The two-hour walk through enclosures of boar, Snow-shoeing is strenuous. A more leisurely wolf, bison, bears, reindeer, marmotte and way to swoosh through the snow is on a husky izards is a pleasure of all ages. Picnic spots drawn sledge. Husky Forever at Matmale and beautiful views through to the lake and 0687760266 or Drakkar Traineau Adventure mountains add to the pleasure. in Font Romeu 0608628745 are the people to contact for that activity. Or you could hire a four wheeled mountain bike and follow well bashed trails through the forests. Both ecologically sound and original, “le Quad VTT” can be hired by ringing 0688582716. Or why not take to the skies??? Kite skiing is

41 BookLife Shop opening hours over the festive season Main supermarkets (Carrefour, Auchan, Winter Reading Intermarché, Champion etc) will be closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day but open as usual at all other times (early closing - 19h - on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve). Featuring five books set in the Pyrenées, Boxing Day is not a bank holiday in France. written by local authors and offering a Smaller shops will be open at the discre - variety of possible presents or holiday tion of the owner but closed on Christmas literature for lovers of the Pyrenées Day and New Year’s Day. Orientales.

“Love and War in the towards the Pyrenees in search of the “Sublime”. Pyrenees” by Rosemary Bailey Her hero is Sir Henry Russell-Killough, half is now available in paperback, French, half Irish, totally eccentric, he climbed a fantastic read, brilliantly every mountain in the Pyrenees. Accompanied researched and written in her by her young son, Rosemary Bailey leads us in inimitable blend of personal his footsteps, interweaving her own Pyrenean experience and historical fact. A written experiences with those of Sir Henry in a travel record of a dark period in the history of the tale par excellence. Pyrenees Orientales, lightened by the deep love Rosemary has for both the country and “Collioure from A-Z” the people who live here. by Jane Mann is more than just a guide book. In “Life in a Postcard” It overflows with an Rosemary Bailey tells the story eclectic mixture of information, anecdotes, of living in and the restoring history, photographs and stories of Collioure, of the converted monastery its inhabitants and visitors. All told with a of Corbiac, on the outskirts fondness that has grown over the twenty of Mosset. She blends the years since she first set foot in the small everyday routines of the medieval monks Catalan village known as the “Jewell of the with her own to make a fascinating tale of the Cote Vermeille” . simple and not always so simple life as it can be lived in the 21st century and as it was lived “Careless Love”, a novel is in the middle ages. a tale of sex, love, betrayal, fidelity and family played “The Man who Married a out against the backdrop of Mountain” takes us into windswept Cornish beaches, the 19th century world of deepest rural Gloucestershire aristocratic explorers and and the Mediterranean sunshine of the French mountaineers who gravitated Pyrenees. A light and easy holiday read. 42 43 Thingsyoumightneedtoknow…

Have your say Quel est le fruit prefere de Beethoven ? in the UK! POMME POMME POMME POMME ! Did you know that, whilst around 200,000 British expats are resident in France, only a small handful are actually registered More scams to vote in the UK, even though they can? Watch out for an email scam going round with convincing looking In fact, Every British citizen who headings and logos, claiming has been registered to vote to be from the French tax office. in the UK within the last 15 Sent from remboursement@ years is eligible to vote in UK impots.gouv.fr, it informs you that Parliamentary (general) elections you are eligible for a tax refund and European Parliamentary (remboursement) and asks you elections in the UK. to click on a link and fill in your If you were too young to register bank details. If you receive this when you left the UK, you can still email DO NOT click on the link. register as an overseas voter so The DGFiP (Direction générale des long as your parent or guardian finances publiques) says that they was registered to vote in the UK. would never ask for your bank or credit card details in this way and You can also vote in France’s own warns people to be vigilant. local and European parliamentary elections. To register, download an overseas registration form from www. aboutmyvote.org.uk and return French letters! it to the electoral registration Visit www.conso.net -> ‘Vos Droits’- office for the address at which > ‘100 lettres-types’ for more than you were last registered to vote 100 specimen letters in French, in the UK. (Addresses can be to help you to complain, enquire, found on website). Once you are set up or cancel a contract… registered, you may choose to and dealing with insurance, vote in person at your local UK banks, services, health, transport, polling station, by post or by neighbour and consumer proxy. disputes… 44 Local news Check out www.la-clau.net for a good insight into the news around the region. It’s in French but not too complicated and you can sign up to a weekly newsletter which covers the main happenings in Catalonia.

Customs allowances from Spain and Le Perthus…

The following allowances are PER CAR, not per person. - Cigarettes: 5 cartons (1000 cigarettes) or 10 if you declare them at the motorway border. They will give you an attestation to show to police in case you are stopped on the way home. - Rolling tobacco: 1 kilo - Spirits: 10litres - Beer: 110 litres - Fortified wines - 20 litres - Wine: 90 litres - Fizzy wine: 60litres

45 Artlife with Ellen Hall Christmas shopping Perpignan shops will be open for Christmas shoppers on Sunday 6th,13th and 20th December. There will also be free parking in Wilson, Arago, Saint-Martin and Catalogne carparks in the city centre.. Odile Oms

A door to art

The door of Galerie Odile Oms at 12 Rue du Commerce in Ceret is closed. Odile Oms says it is important to mark the difference between street and gallery, noise and silence, art and tourism.

Turn the handle and walk in. The white walls eventually found refuge in Céret. The show are splashed with Goyaesque figures by was a noteworthy success and assured the Caillard in vivid reds and greens. gallery’s future. She continued to explore the Towards the back garden another room is filled history of modern art in the region with shows with works of modern masters like Brune, Derain of Pignon, Loutreuil and Derain. and Vives. The gallery’s mission is clear: to present contemporary and modern art In exhibiting contemporary with local connections. painters Odile tries to give artists a space where people On the same cobbled street can come and “look and look where her great grandmother again, get to know and learn to kept a grocery shop, Odile and love” the paintings. Emmanuel her painter husband, Christian, Bolzoms’ surreal creatures (Dali bought no. 12 as a family comes to mind) and Julien home and workshop. Through Descossy’s meditative watery Christian and his circle of landscapes are examples of artists Odile became fascinated a new generation of painters with painting. When the bank promoted by the gallery. where she had been working was restructured, she took the Odile’s office is on the first floor opportunity to open her own in a small room painted a restful gallery on the ground floor of their house. That green. In this inner sanctum, in the course of was exactly ten years ago. a conversation, drawings and paintings are produced to illustrate a point. She is forever The first exhibition was of 40 paintings by in the process of discovering what painting is Pinkus Kremegne, who had fled Belarus and and what it can become. “You have to stand 46 alone, in silence, in front of a canvas and give it your complete attention. Only in this way can the dialogue between you and the painting take place. A painting is produced layer by layer, and it is the same with our perception.”

In December, to celebrate the gallery’s 10th anniversary, Odile will mount a retrospective exhibition. She relishes the opportunity to create a show of her own personal choices. In February 2010 she will exhibit the Ceretan artist, Christine Costeseque, whose work Odile describes as “subtle, with soft and transparent colours, uncannily both abstract and figurative.”

So, why not open that door? You may find yourself wanting to return for another look, another dialogue.

Opening hours & complete gallery information available at www.odileoms.com

47 QuirkyProperties Old stone houses

with exposed beams…

Rare and much sought after, traditional country houses are hard to find. Here is a small collection.

Overlooking the Têt Valley is a traditional rustic stone Mas. It has been lovingly renovated over the last ten years by an artist/sculptor making it as much a work of art as a beautiful home in which to live. From its huge swimming pool are views over Ille sur Têt and Les Orgues to Château de Quéribus on the skyline of the distant Corbieres hills. In winter its comfortable and spacious interior with under-floor heating and a large fireplace ensure warmth and in summer the thick walls insulate against excessive heat. Solar panels heat domestic and swimming pool water. In the grounds are an artist’s studio, a gite and two independent studios, a zen garden and surrounding the ancient olive tree in front of the main house l'ancien propriétaire the former owner are harmonious attenant attached privately after a showing terraces creatively cadastre local town planning register lit by highly original sculpted lampposts. combles/grenier attic Houses like this are cuisine américaine open-plan kitchen very rare and do not de plein pied bungalow come on the market Useful vocab Useful maison mitoyenne semi-detached often. double vitrage double glazing (825,000 euros) Ring 04 6884 7027 loggia covered terrace to view. sans vis-à-vis not overlooked FAI Agents fees included 48 In the midst of the vineyards behind Banyuls sur Mer is a delightfully renovated old stone “Bergerie”. Several sunny terraces surround the attractive living-room/kitchen that, with a bathroom and small double bedroom, make up the main house. Steps lead down to two further rooms, all with the same views over vines and mountains. In fact, the mas comes with two vineyards with a total surface area of 5.335 m2. It is unusual, charming certainly and, for peace and tranquillity a mere ten minutes drive from the sea, hard to beat. 385 000,00 € Banyuls Immobilier BANYULS-SUR-MER Tel: 04.68.88.33.79 e-mail: [email protected]

49 QuirkyProperties

of properties and experiencing ‘weird’ sensations kind of comes with the territory but this house wins the spooky prize hands down. At 620,000 Euros (agency fees included), the price is not as frightening as it looks, as the house is set within 2.5 hectares of land with 10 rooms. If you’re looking for a property that is a bit out of the ordinary then this renovated Mas could This charming renovated farmhouse has be for you. One proviso though, if you wish origins dating from the 13th Century and to visit, you have to promise to stick by my is full of character and original features side all the way around. PLEASE don’t make including beams, exposed stone and me do it on my own! exposed rock face with an interesting split- level layout. However what really sets it Who you gonna call?? apart is the resident ghost. As you can James at RHF International +33 (0)678 690 imagine, estate agents get to visit a lot 597 Email:[email protected]

50 51 Spotlighton...

BLONDE SPÉCIALE AU MUSCAT (6%) CAP D’ONA BREWERY, ARGELÈS A fascinating attempt at marrying their own product with another famous Roussillon By John Fairclough beverage, this light beer is fortified with 8% Muscat de Rivesaltes, leaving a fruity aroma. Whilst the Roussillon area is without doubt renowned for its SPÉCIALE CÔTE VERMEILLE (6%) wines, and one of the top producing areas in the whole of Similar to the above, but with the addition of Europe, beer has never been very high on the list of priorities Banyuls wine rather than the Muscat. of either producers or consumers here. AMBRÉE DU CAP (6.5%) However, with microbreweries making a strong comeback Cap d’Ona are justifiably proud of this bitter all over the world, led particularly by Belgium, Holland, UK ale, made from 100% malted barley, as it has recently won a gold medal in a Concours of and USA, it is very pleasing to see the emergence French microbreweries. of the Cap d’Ona brewery in Argelès. In addition, this year Cap d’Ona are producing not one, but two Christmas beers; an ambrée Created in 1999 by the Engler family, who has There are six "regular" at 7.5% and a blonde at 8%. a brewing tradition stretching back hundreds beers produced of years in Eastern France, they operate out of varying types For teetotalers/drivers, it is worth noting that of purpose built premises in the ZA near and strengths; Starting a cola called Alter and a traditional low sugar Carrefour in the at the lowest ABV: lemonade are also produced. seaside town. Although the BLANCHE DE GARRIGUES (4.5%) The increased popularity of artisan beers brewery is state Flavoured with Rosemary, this is a light, has meant that the brewery’s products are of the art, the slightly cloudy wheat beer, perfect for hot becoming quite widely available, not just in great rainy day activity! For private groups, methods used are summer days. small specialist shops, but even in the Grands a more detailed tour can be arranged, by strictly traditional, Surfaces such as Auchan and Carrefour. 33 and phoning the boss, Grégor Engler on 04 68 95 with only quality BLONDE BIO (4.5%) 75 cl bottles are both used. A growing number 75 09 or 06 20 25 17 26. For further info visit ingredients used; This is a pils type beer. Very refreshing of bars, cafés and restaurants, particularly on www.cap-dona.com malt, wheat, and made with 100% certified organic the coastal strip, Vallespir and Perpignan also rye, yeast, and, ingredients. stock at least 2 of the range, even on draught of course, pure in a few places! well water. The BLONDE DES ALBÈRES (5.5%) process differs slightly for each beer, but, in This light ale has a little Albères honey added The shop/tasting room attached to the brewery the main, cool, top fermentation ensures a after fermentation, giving it a pleasantly is open Mon to Fri during normal French distinctive character and satisfying flavour. sweet finish. working hours, and ,on Fridays, brewery visits for the general public are conducted, another 52 Spotlighton...

School holidays for our region (Zone A)

- Christmas - Break up: Friday 18th December 2009 Back to school: Monday 4th January 2010

- February half term - Break up: Friday 12th February / Back to school: Monday 1st March

Changes to your Sky television cards Getting the message?

Sky is still issuing the new viewing cards that will be replacing the "yellow house" Sky cards, and give you access to certain channels.

4 If you pay a subscription to Sky, your new address or you may order a new one for 20€. viewing card should by now have been posted (UK address also needed) Replacement is NOT to the UK address to which the account is automatic and must be applied for online registered. at www.sky.com/replacecard/index.jsp. Just enter your viewing card number and it will tell 4 If you have a Sky subscription through an you if you are eligible for a replacement. agent, this means that you are "using your agents UK address", so your agent should Information supplied by Alex of Skydigi arrange for the new viewing card to be sent and Dave of British TV in France. For up to to you. date information on UK TV visit their sites at www.skydigi.tv and www.british-tv-in- 4 Once all these cards have been issued, the france.co.uk old cards will be turned off. This will mean that those of you who have a Sky box or viewing card only, will lose access to some FTV (free to view) channels including FIVE, FIVE USA, FIVE USA+1, FIVER, FIVER+1 Sky3) but you will continue to receive all other FTV channels.

4 If you do wish to change your card, it will be replaced free of charge, as long as it is less than 3 years old, and registered to a UK 54 55 A selection of…. Christmas markets - December 27th November - 24th December - Perpignan (Quai Vauban & around the centre) 1st - 31st December - Elne (Christmas market) Sunday 6th - Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans - Thuir (Foire au gras) 3rd -7th - Collioure, Château Royal 9th - 13th - Argelès-sur-Mer 10th - 13th - Elne Sunday 20th Saturday 12th Hotel - Le Boulou La Fauceille - Sorède (off Auchan 12th - 13th roundabout) - Castelnou 04 68 210 910 - Port-Vendres 1 Christmas Sunday 13th lunch and - Maureillas afternoon tea - Amélie-les-Bains and mince pies. - Vernet-les-Bains 18th - 21st Carols, Santa, - Port-Vendres 2 cards and 18th - 24th pressies to buy.... - Le Barcarès village Sunday 20th - Céret (Foire au gras)

Palais des Congrès, Perpignan

PALAIS des CONGRÈS 8th January PARC des EXPOSITIONS Magic show with Dani Lary. 1st December 13th – 28th February OTANGO The ultimate Tango show ! Anatole Park : Bouncy castle Ten renowned dancers, five musi- 2nd February theme park cians and two exceptional singers Les Rendez-vous du Caveau de la from Buenos Aires present this Huchette : "Nico and the Rythm 27th – 28th February love story of music and the legend Dudes". This regular jazz ’club’ Salon Animaliades: Puppies and of Tango. brings together talented jazz kittens of every shape, size and musicians. breed for sale and exhibition. 56 Subscribe - Subscribe - Subscribe - Subscribe - Subscribe to PO Life TODAY!

Be the first to get your copy of PO LIFE!!! Hot off the press, and by popular request, this new, fatter PO LIFE will be sent to subscribers before it is available at the usual pick up points.

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Return to : P-O Life Chemin du Mas Fourcade 66480 Maureillas France 57 Les français FoodandDrink vivent pour manger et les anglais mangent pour vivre Festive FrenchFood Bon appétit!

A dinner party in france is seen very much as an opportunity for friends and family to spend quality time together and can last several hours and sometimes cover six courses or more.

Christmas or New Year’s Eve dinner is called a eaten by families when they returned home "réveillon" after the word réveil (awakening), from Church after the Midnight Mass. as in theory it involves staying awake until well A few specialities that you might be served over after midnight. This tradition can be traced back the festive season… to the mid-1800s when elaborate dinners were Win e recomme ndatio Despite the many Pâté de foie gras/mousse de foie gras. Usually ns Foie Gras ethical issues a combination of the meat of the bird and surrounding the force feeding of ducks or a small amount of the foie gras. Check the geese to enlarge their liver, the resulting foie percentage of Foie Gras on the label. gras is nevertheless part of the French heritage, a delicacy eaten throughout Duck (Foie Gras de Canard) or France on special occasions. Goose (Foie Gras D’Oie)? Goose foie gras is less common Foie gras entier (whole foie and more expensive than duck gras), made of a whole liver, foie gras because its production may be either cooked (cuit), requires more intensive care semi-cooked (mi-cuit), or fresh and feeding. Its taste is more (frais). Can be bought from intense than duck foie gras. the butchers and is often "pan- fried" in slices and served hot To serve either as a starter or on top of a Place it in the fridge for a couple fillet steak. (Tournedos Rossini) of hours before serving so that it is chilled but not ice cold. Take out of Bloc de foie gras, cooked and fridge 15 minutes before serving shaped, with a minimum of 90% foie gras. and cut it into 10mm slices. Serve as a starter with Should have rich taste and smooth texture. toast triangles or crusty farmhouse bread or as a Buy it avec morceaux (with pieces) of foie gras fabulous accompaniment to a sparking glass of for a rougher texture. champagne to celebrate just about anything! 58 Le facteur apporte une lettre Recommended with Rivesaltes Ambré 2006 pour le fermier. from Domaine de la Perdrix, Trouillas. "Il est dans la porcherie, explique sa Naturally sweet, rich golden wine which femme, mais vous le reconnaîtrez, goes particularly well with blue cheese or foie gras. Around 12€ c'est le seul qui porte un béret noir".

Marrons glacés eaten around Christmas time in France, a fairly costly luxury as true marrons glacés take First created several days to cook from start to finish First, during the the chestnuts are washed & sorted, then boiled reign of Louis so that the shell and inner membrane come XIV, these away easily. They are then cooked repeatedly candied glazed in a rich vanilla syrup until the flavour seeps chestnuts are into the heart of the chestnut.

Win e recomme ndatio Cave ns "During one of my treks through Cooperative inTrouillas Afghanistan, we lost our corkscrew. We were compelled to live on food and Seasonal bubbles and fizz with water for several days." Cantarene white (5€35) or W.C.Fields Cantarene rosé (7€25). Dry and festive, this local champagne- method wine is considerably Château better value/quality/price than Montana many “real”champagnes. in Banyuls dels Or why not try the "sweet and Aspres low" Dizzy? As opposed to "La Fontaine des alco-pops this light (5°), fizzy Demoiselles , 2006, 8.90 € Muscat contains no nasty eees Described as a wine to "charm or additives and can be drunk women and seduce men", this shiny straight from the bottle like red cabernet sauvignon is delicious beer. Refreshing, fun and very with both red meats and poultry. festive (4€20 75cl bottles, 11€ for Aromas of liquorice and prunes can be 6 x 33 cl bottles) detected by the connoisseurs amongst 10% discount on all purchases you. For others, it is just a thoroughly over 30€ on presentation of this article. nice wine! 59 Who to contact in case of EMERGENCY?

SAMU (medical emergency) 15 Feeling down? Police emergency. 17 Call us up! Fire service emergency 18 SOS Help in france European emergency line 112 01 46 21 46 46 directory enquiries. . . 118 008 www.soshelpline.org International directory enquiries 118 700 International mastercard 08 00 90 13 87 Local weather forecast 08 36 68 02 66 GDF (gas problems) 08 10 43 30 66 EDF (electricity problems) 08 10 333 066 SOS Doctor 24/24 08 20 20 41 42 Emergency vet 04 68 55 55 83 Anti-poison centre 04 91 75 25 25 Perpignan hospital 04 68 61 66 33 CPAM (English spk serv) 08 20 90 42 12 Cancer support France 04 68 69 01 37

You can use the The European emergency number 112 in any EU country from any telephone. You do not need a card or money to ring this number from a pay phone. 112 may also be used from a mobile to connect you with all emergency services.

P-O Life can be found at the following distribution points and many smaller ones. All main tourist offices Perpignan Airport Palais des Congrès Argelès: Carrefour Perpignan: Leroy Merlin Le Boulou: Expert, Leclerc, Intermarché Pollestres: Intermarché Canet: Château Esparrou, Hyper Casino Port Vendres: PV Immo Céret: Intermarché, Champion Prades: Super U, Intermarché Collioure: Château Royal St Génis des Fontaines: La Marjolaine Elne: Champion Thuir: Champion Ille sur Têt: Carrefour Market Trouillas: Cave de Trouillas Laroque: Carrefour Market, Café des Artistes 60 61

Englishspeakingservices international code +33

Architects Caterers Health and Well Being Ari Hantke Architecture 06 74 81 11 43 La Marjolaine - St Genis Fontaines 04 68 89 10 14 Anya Gore (MAR, FFR, CertZB) 06 31 55 30 02 Manuel Grau 04 68 39 45 45 Reflexology, Zero Balancing [email protected] Car repair/breakdown / sales Beauty Slim - Pollestre 04 30 44 70 16 Bakeries Citroën - Perpignan 04 68 Energym - Céret 04 68 87 28 50 Le Couvent - Ille / Têt 04 68 84 15 65 Garage du Tech - Céret 04 68 87 33 51 Fabienne - Shiatsu 06 61 83 82 44 Cambounac - Céret 04 68 87 14 69 Falgos - Golf, SPA ... 04 68 39 51 42 Cleaning services Health shop Y. Moreau 04 68 51 23 02 Bed & breakfast - Hotels Blanchisserie du Moulin 04 68 39 30 18 Yoga for Health - Céret 04 68 22 72 94 L'Andreu - Corsavy 04 68 37 57 22 Laundry service Chalet de Bonheur - Formiguères 06 83 75 67 47 Vallespir Cleaning - Céret 06 70 89 46 92 Home, garden and decoration Chalet Ana - Les Angles 04 68 04 09 69 [email protected] 06 85 21 78 41 Andrew Watts Forestry 04 68 87 34 85 Mas Fontanes - Oms 04 68 85 34 86 Forestry and fencing - débrousaillage Computer help & Maintenance Atout bois mm 06 75 55 77 75 Builders KeepingITsimple 06 82 52 53 00 Joinery, furniture maker Dave Taylor 04 68 39 77 15 For all your IT needs - [email protected] Atout Kro- kitchens, tiles... 04 68 67 29 66 kitchens, bathrooms ... Patrick Boyle 04 68 87 17 35 Aubergine - made to measure 06 25 18 18 10 Done&Dusted 04 68 84 55 36 Broadband installation, repairs, upgrades, advice curtains, upholstery - [email protected] Hussell Building - Céret 04 68 98 03 24 Tony Price - Céret 04 68 87 42 17 Expert - electrical appliances 04 68 83 19 62 www.hussellbuilding.co.uk [email protected] Hans Peters 06 09 85 94 39 Ian Rye - builder - Elne 04 68 39 75 45 Gardens Zen spirit and minimalist gardens [email protected] Education & translation Kevin Campbell - handyman 06 10 05 06 90 Alfmed - Perpignan 04 68 62 20 20 Home, pool & garden maintenance PO Interiors Carole Howarth - Perpignan 06 01 93 55 04 MSB Property Services 04 68 51 80 46 Language training- [email protected] Renewable Energy France 04 68 55 93 36 04 72 42 07 04 Carole Cassoly - Prades area 06 11 44 15 95 [email protected] admin help / translation Torredemer - Shutters / blinds 04 68 87 01 96 carpentry, general Nathalie Cousserans - Toulouges 06 22 25 29 92 Vallespir Paysage - gardens 06 12 99 25 52 building, total renovation PromoLangues - Céret 04 68 87 48 10 Insurance IGC - Camélas 06 20 84 00 24 Estate agencies AGF Céret - R. Estebe-Rigall 06 43 80 73 51 John Renov 04 68 92 02 87 Canigou Country Fiona Beazley 06 77 74 47 15 Home, car, health, business [email protected] Leroy Merlin - DIY infos 04 68 85 77 13 First Immo 04 68 84 81 81 Phill Ward - Alberes 04 68 89 15 60 Ille sur Têt - [email protected] Jewellry kitchens/bathrooms - pwardrenovations@orangef Loreto Immobilier 04 68 82 05 70 Laurene Bijoux 06 86 25 05 34 P.O. Interiors 06 72 42 07 04 Collioure - [email protected] Jewellry parties in your home carpentry, general building, total renovation Med & Mountain Properties 04 68 56 54 22 P.V. Construction 04 68 82 12 46 throughout P-O - www.medandmountain.com Local produce & gifts Roussillon Developpements Ltd 04 68 96 08 01 Port Vendres Immobilier 04 68 82 59 39 Terroir Catalan 06 61 73 06 13 English-builders-66.com Port Vendres - www.port-vendres-immobilier.com Ute LIEBSCHER 04 68 84 55 27 RHF - International 04 68 83 19 50 Locksmith traditional plaster, all finishing [email protected] Hairdressers Securicle - 06 23 69 46 81 04 68 21 86 26 Yves Le Belge - all exterior work 06 43 78 18 74 La Coupe - Le Boulou 04 68 88 36 57 Locked out ? Call us ! ( houses, cars.....) Terraces, drives... - [email protected] 62 To join our directory, contact us on 04 68 39 75 81 or email [email protected]

Opticians Van with human 06 3468 1619 Port-Vendres 04 68 85 12 92 throughout PO - [email protected]

Personal trainer Restaurants & Bars Vincent F. 06 37 05 85 78 Dal'I Bar - Céret 04 68 81 42 04 Personalised exercise in your home Chaudron Magique - Céret 04 68 87 40 84

Plumbers/Electricians Raviglione 04 68 87 02 52 Le Chaudron Robert Morley 04 68 83 38 54 VNelec - Thuir 06 13 24 87 47 Magique LOST in Walter v.d. Hoogen 06 25 24 00 81 04 68 87 40 84 PERPIGNAN? Expat Pools Eat in or take out! On holiday Coral - Laroque des Albères 04 68 87 21 90 French services TPM - [email protected] 06 75 46 93 65 El Gaucho - Perpignan 06 34 51 87 16 Courses cleaning, maintenance, accessories Le pied dans le plat- Céret 04 68 87 17 65 Interpreting La Terrasse au Soleil - Céret 04 68 87 01 94 [email protected] Print & design Totsompops - Colera - Spain 972389196 www.howfrench.com Grafika - Le Boulou 04 68 95 79 11 +33(0)4 68 38 91 69 Ski info, hire and accessories Property & Project management Chalet du ski - Les Angles 04 68 04 49 84 APS - [email protected] 06 80 88 80 72 Keyholding,Cleaning,Maintenance Sky TV installation Eve solution - Port-Vendres 06 70 70 62 10 British TV in France 04 68 69 83 76 TPM - Maureillas 06 75 45 93 65 06.82.10.55.35 www.british-tv-in-france.co.uk www.tpm66.com - [email protected] Skydigi 04 68 87 18 30

Removal Wine Britannia Sandersteads 020 8669 6688 Le Domaine de La Perdrix 04 68 53 12 74 fortnightly around France - [email protected] Le Cellier de Camille 04 68 04 39 12

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