The area, Capri in tjhe Bay of surrounded by mountains

CAMPANIA Southern ’s Great Wine Promise By Ed McCarthy

ampania is a region of many contrasts: the thriv- ing city of Naples, Italy’s third-largest, with its C insane traffic; the breathtakingly beautiful , with its grapefruit-sized lemons; and the romantic, chic island of Capri in the Bay of Naples. Then there’s Mount Vesuvius and the city of , destroyed by a volcanic outburst in 79 A.D. and still being restored; and the quiet, dramatically stunning wine regions, such as the Avellino area, surrounded by mountains.

Mastroberardino Vineyeards and details from the cellar (above) About a two-hour drive south of , has actually been producing wine since pre-Roman times—when Greek settlers brought their vines and populated the area 2700 years ago. For hun- dreds of years, the region provided wines for the Romans, and was their vacation playground (Capri; Pompeii). It’s ironic, therefore, that we are now talking about Campania as a new area for discover- ing potentially great wines. While the wines of most Northern Italy regions—Piedmont, Tuscany, the Veneto, Friuli, Trentino-Alto Adige, Emilia-Romagna, etc.—attained international recognition and success during the tech- nological wine revolution which swept the world during the 1970s and ‘80s, Southern Italian regions, always more economically

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• Shoot the Reposado. depressed and lacking industry, lan- more than half of the region. Although • Sip the Plata. guished, producing mainly wine in bulk, the Mediterranean coastal area is quite which was trucked to Northern Italy and warm much of the year, the high altitude • Savor the Añejo. neighboring countries. of the inland hillsides, where most of the In 1970, only three wineries in better are located, is fairly cool, Now take the time to sit back and Campania were making wines commer- and more conducive to white wine pro- imagine the possibilities. Nice work, cially, and only one, , duction. Also, since Roman times, white produced significant enough amounts of wine has been more the custom in the we like the way you think. You wine to be known outside of Campania. region. Almost all of the wines are made ork are officially prepped and ready, Today, Mastroberardino is still going from native , or grapes which origi- strong, but the region there now boasts nated in Greece 3,000 or 4,000 years ago. the rest should be cake. 120 wineries.wen (972) 628-7522 Before focusing on Avellino, I’ll first erage Netw

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I made y Bo a visit to Campania in May, summarize the wines and wineries of

first stopping at y T Naples, partaking of its Campania’s other four provinces: re The Be 2.125” x 10.375” 2.625” X 10.875” 3.125” X 11.375” T Lesle wonderful pizzaKaty Theiss (972) 628-7702 (Naples is its birthplace) and mozzarella di bufala; and then the Caserta: In northwest Campania, clos- .:

Amalfi Coast—where.: there is an est to Rome, this is the home of an estimable winery, Marisa Cuomo, whose ancient Roman wine, Falerno, which is e:

winesv are sold in the U.S. But my pri- made primarily as a white wine, Falerno rim: raffic Mgr Publication(s): Li T Bleed: Studio: Prod. Mgr mary vinous destinationT on this trip was Bianco (from the Falanghina variety). the mountainous The red, Falerno Rosso, is made chiefly (about 20 miles east of Mt. Vesuvius and from two indigenous varieties, Naples), made famous recently on TV as and . Villa Matilde, the leading the birthplace of Tony Soprano’s family. winery in Caserta, has singlehandedly Avellino (locally known as ) is kept Falerno alive (most of it was wiped asmer one of five provinces in Campania, and out by the phylloxera louse a century the region’s most important wine area. ago); this winery also has a fine lineup of

Sauza Hornitos 310-5675SUS7069 (310-5675SUS7036) Hornitos Third PG Redo 4C September 2007 Dan Dougherty Natalie W indigenous wines in its portfolio. White Outshines Red Campania’s location in Benevento: In northeast Campania, might lead you to think that red wine north of Avellino. Falanghina is the ywriter:

plays aviously: more important role than white, major wine of the province; the main Client: but Job No.: in Pre factDescription: mostColor(s): Insertion Date: ofArt Director: theCop leading wineries, at wine zones are Sannio and Sant’ Agata least in Avellino province, produce more dei Goti. Azienda Agricola Mustilli, a white wine than red. The reason is sim- champion of the Falanghina variety, is ple: the , which located in Sant’ Agata dei Goti, and one include several active volcanoes, cover of the region’s top wineries.

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campania

Naples: On the coast, this province encom- tic of a winery in Campania; it opened a sec- passes the city of Naples, the town of Amalfi ond winery, called Vigne di Mezzo, in anoth- and the , Campi Flegrei RECENT er region, nearby Basilicata, where it’s pro- (the coastal area east of Naples), the islands IN CAMPANIA ducing Aglianico in the Monte Vulture area. of Capri and , and the Pompeii- Mastroberardino, long the face of wines Vesuvius area. White wines, which go with I White Wines from Campania, is located in the small town the wonderful seafood in the area, dominate; of , outside of Avellino. In the late they’re made from the Falanghina, Most of Europe experienced very 1950s and early ‘60s, Antonio Biancolella, and Coda di Volpe, and occa- hot weather in 2003, Campania Mastroberardino rescued Greco di Tufo and sionally Greco varieties. The local red wines included. Avoid 2003 whites; di Avellino from near extinction are made from the native Piedirosso, 2004, 2005, and 2006 are all fine. (caused by phylloxera and World War II) by Aglianico, and Sciascinoso varieties. Two re-planting these now-thriving varieties. leading wineries in Naples province are the I Red Wines Although white wines now make up the bulk aforementioned Marisa Cuomo and of its production, Mastroberaerdino is proba- D’Ambra Vini d’Ischia. Both 2000 and 2003 were hot bly most renowned for its red . Its years; red wines, especially the 1968 Taurasi is a legendary wine—still very ‘03s, were quite ripe and alcoholic. Salerno: The southern part of Campania, much alive and still great today, but only The best red wine in the south of Naples and Avellino. The leading available at auctions and in private cellars. It region is 2001; it is powerful, wine zone, , has three important was the one wine which drew attention to balanced, and will be long-lived. wineries: De Conciliis, Luigi Maffini, and the then practically unknown Aglianico The 2002 vintage was rainy, Montevetrano. Aglianico is the major red variety—just as the Biondi-Santi Winery producing light, short-lived variety here; Fiano and Moscato are impor- made Brunello di Montalcino world- wines. The 2004 vintage looks tant white varieties. Montevetrano, which to be very good, second only to renowned. has received much critical acclaim for its 2001 of recent vintages. The In 1996, Antonio Mastroberardino and wine, is an exception. Its red wine is interna- 2005 vintage also looks his son Piero began an exciting new project tionally styled, and is made mainly from quite good. in Pompeii; they re-planted the same and . varieties in the resurrected parts of Pompeii that had been growing there 2,000 years ago. The Wines of Avellino By analyzing the DNA of grape seeds buried The people of Avellino have had to live with Mastroberardino’s wines are white; Terredora in the volcanic ashes, the Mastroberardinos their share of natural disasters. The nearby makes a bit higher percentage of red—45 discovered that eight varieties had grown in and very much alive Mt. Vesuvius last erupt- percent, with 55 percent white. All three Pompeii, five white: Greco, Fiano, Coda di ed in 1944, causing much damage over a produce basically the same types of wine (in Volpe, Falanghina, and Capronetta; and wide area. Even worse, an earthquake in different styles). Their four main white three red: Aglianico, Piedirosso, and 1980 destroyed many villages and wineries in wines are Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, Sciascinoso. Through trial and error, the area, and killed over 3,000 people. Falanghina, and Lacryma Christi Bianco Antonio Dente, Mastroberardino’s viticul- Today, the villages and wineries have been (made from the Coda di Volpe variety). The turist, ascertained that two red varieties, re-built, and Avellino wineries are leading major reds are Taurasi (Aglianico wine from Piedirosso and Sciascinoso, seemed to grow the way towards international recognition of Taurasi village area), other Aglianico red best in the relatively warm Pompeii vine- Campania’s wines. wines, and Lacryma Christi Rosso (made yards. Mastroberardino’s first “Pompeii” wine Three large wineries dominate in mainly from Piedirosso and Aglianico). was the 2001 Villa dei Misteri (85 percent Avellino: Mastroberardino, Feudi di San Feudi di San Gregorio definitely makes Piedirosso, 15 percent Sciascinoso). The Gregorio, and Terredora di Paolo (aka the most “modern” wines of the three, and 2002 Villa dei Misteri is now available in the Terredora). Mastroberardino, established in has also been growing the fastest. Its winery U.S. in limited quantities for about $185 a 1878, produces 2.4 million bottles annually; is a remarkable state-of-art facility on top of bottle. I have tasted it, and it’s very good. Feudi di San Gregorio, now the largest win- a hill, near the village of , Worth $185? Well, you are buying a piece of ery in Avellino, with over 3 million bottles a close to the town of Avellino. Feudi (as it is history. year, was founded just 21 years ago, and sold commonly known) makes liberal use of The Mastroberardino brothers, Antonio its first wines in 1991. Terredora, the new- French barriques to age its red wines. and Walter, ended their partnership in comer of the three, began in 1993-94, and Internationally famous Ricardo Cotarella is 1993—a not uncommon occurrence with now produces 1.2 million bottles annually. Feudi’s wine consultant. Even though all brothers in Italian wineries. Younger brother Right now, all three wineries sell 70 to 75 three wineries use barriques to some extent, Walter, whose wife Dora and her family percent of their wines in Italy (mainly Rome Feudi’s red wines, which are the most pol- owned many of Mastroberardino’s prime and Campania), and the USA is the most ished, show more evidence of barrique aging vineyards, kept these vineyards in the split- important export market of all three. than Mastroberardino’s or Terredora’s. up. Antonio kept the winery in Atripalda About 70 to 75 percent of Feudi’s and Feudi did something very uncharacteris- and the winery name. Walter opened his

campania The following are some of the wines Wine Recommendations I tasted on my recent trip to Campania: winery, Terredora, in the village of , north of Avellino. HIGHLY I 2003 Feudi di San Gregorio Serpico, Both Mastroberardino and Terredora RECOMMENDED IGT Irpinia Aglianico went through rather difficult times in the Made from Aglianico grapes in three 1995-2005 period, with Antonio and son different vineyards, Feudi’s Serpico is Piero acquiring new vineyards, never an easy White Wines one of the great, long-lived Aglianico task in Italy, and establishing long-time con- I 2005 Marisa Cuomo Furore Bianco, wines of Campania. This wine is very tracts with growers; and Walter and his sons Costa d’Amalfi rich and ripe, and has enormous con- Gran Furore, the name of the Marisa centration of fruit. Palm Bay Imports building a new winery and selling their own Cuomo Winery, is the leading winery wines for the first time. During this time, on the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento I 2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Feudi di San Gregorio grew very rapidly, Peninsula). It is located in the village Riserva, “Radici” undoubtedly not a coincidence. of Furore, but grapes are also sourced A very refined wine, with tart cherry, Terredora’s advantage is that it owns 90 from Ravello. This wine, made from herbal aromas and flavors, great con- Biancolella and Falanghina, is centration of fruit, along with substan- percent of the vineyards from which it unoaked, dry, and minerally, with fla- tial acidity. This 2000 Riserva is only sources its grapes (Feudi and vors which suggest white peaches. now opening up; a wine made for long Mastroberardino own about 50 percent or Panebianco LLC aging. At $39 retail, it is a great value, less). Paolo, who is Walter and Dora’s oldest when you compare it to or son, is the winery’s viticulturist; younger son I 2006 Mastroberardino Fiano di Barbarescos of similar quality. Wilson Lucio is the winemaker and handles exports, Avellino “Radici” Daniels Ltd. Mastroberardino’s finest is and daughter Daniella takes care of finance most probably its Radici. This wine is RECOMMENDED and public relations. Walter personally han- dry, spicy, and delicate; it has enticing dles long-time clients in Naples and Rome. aromas of white flowers, mint, and Terredora’s Vineyard, which grows eucalyptus, with great concentration of White Wines both Fiano and Aglianico, is particularly citrus and mint flavors, and lively acid- I 2006 Feudi di San Gregorio ity. A lean, sleek wine, with good aging Falanghina di Sannio striking; it’s on a very steep hillside with potential. Wilson Daniels Ltd. This ’06 Falanghina from the Sannio high mountain peaks in the background. zone is dry, with ripe, fruity, floral aro- Terredora’s Fiano di Avellino from its Lapio I 2006 Terredora Fiano di Avellino mas and flavors. It is earthy and miner- Vineyard is regarded as one of the finest ally, with good depth and a delicious, Terre di Dora wines made from this variety. Terre di Dora is one of this winery’s fruity finish. Palm Bay Imports two very special Fiano wines; it’s made from Fiano grapes grown in Terredora’s I 2006 Mastroberardino Lacryma The Unique Styles Lapio an vineyards. The Christi del Vesuvio Bianco ’06 Terre di Dora is dry and crisp, with Probably the best-known white wine in of the Big Three fresh fruit aromas resembling pineapple. Campania, and in the hands of a good It has great length on the palate, with a producer such as Mastroberardino, it’s a White long, rich finish. Vias Imports solid, substantial wine. Made from the By common consent, Fiano di Avellino, Coda di Volpe variety in the Mt. Greco di Tufo, and Falanghina are the most I 2004 Terredora Fiano di Avellino Vesuvius area, the ’06 Lacryma Christi important varietal wines in Campania. They is dry and lean, with mineral notes on CampoRe differ, for me, in the following ways: the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. This is Terredora’s version of a Reserve Falanghina—Generally the fruitiest and Fiano; released later, it is firm and most aromatic of the three, with the broad- structured, with more complex flavors I 2006 Villa Matilde Falanghina del est flavors; usually rich and minerally; than the unoaked Fianos. Not at all Sannio, “Rocca di Leoni” woody in flavor, with a touch of honey Villa Matilde’s ‘06 Falanghina is made appears to be at its best in its first three years on the finish. Vias Imports in a clean, fresh, dry, delicate style; it or so, although Mustilli has made successful has minerally, floral aromas and sub- aged versions. stantial acidity. The perfect wine with Greco di Tufo—An earthy, rich, viscous Red Wines seafood pasta. Empson USA I 2002 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi, wine; showy, with real personality; the most Selve di Luoti flavorful of the three when young; ages well 100 percent Aglianico (like all Taurasi Red Wines for six to eight years. The best vineyards I wines), it was aged for three years, one 2005 Terredora Lacryma Christi del grow around the village of Tufo. of which was in ; the ’02 Feudi Vesuvio Rosso Fiano di Avellino—The most noble of Taurasi is fresh, surprisingly rich and Terredora’s red ’05 Lacryma Christi is concentrated, with aromas of violets, dry, with dark, plummy fruit and dried the three varieties; floral, delicate, and very soft tannins, ripe, fleshy flavors, and herb flavors and medium tannins. A elegant, often with aromas and flavors of very good length. And it is currently gutsy, rustic red from the Mt. Vesuvius hazelnuts. The most long-lived of the three, available. Palm Bay Imports area, made mainly from Piedirosso, ages 12 to 15 years; needs about three years with some Aglianico. Vias Imports to develop. I