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Contents

List of Maps vii

What’s New in India 1

1 The Best of India 6 1 Experiencing Spiritual India ...... 6 5 Exploring Natural India ...... 14 2 The Best Temples, Monuments & 6 The Best Eating & Drinking Lost Cities ...... 8 Experiences ...... 16 3 Unique Places to Stay ...... 10 7 The Best Savvy Traveler Tips ...... 17 4 Most Memorable Moments ...... 13

2 Planning Your Trip to India 19

1 The Regions in Brief ...... 19 9 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 40 2 Visitor Information ...... 23 10 Staying Connected ...... 43 3 Entry Requirements ...... 24 11 Packages for the Independent 4 When to Go ...... 25 Traveler ...... 45 Calendar of Events ...... 27 12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .47 5 Getting There ...... 28 13 Getting Around India ...... 48 6 Money & Costs ...... 30 The Romance of Rail: India’s Special Train Journeys ...... 53 What Things Cost in India ...... 31 14 Tips on Accommodations ...... 54 7 Travel Insurance ...... 33 Fast Facts: India ...... 57 8 Health & Safety ...... 33 Surviving Scams & Con Artists . . . . .38

3 Suggested India Itineraries 63

1 North India Highlights 3 South India in 2 Weeks ...... 71 in 16 Days ...... 64 4 A Leisurely Southern Sojourn ...... 75 2 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan COPYRIGHTEDHighlights ...... 67 MATERIAL 02_169087 ftoc.qxp 1/24/08 11:49 PM Page iv

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4 : City of Dreamers 78

1 Arrival & Orientation ...... 79 5 Where to Dine ...... 107 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 82 Seafood Thrillers ...... 109 Fast Facts: Mumbai ...... 85 6 Shopping ...... 116 2 Getting Around ...... 87 7 Mumbai After Dark ...... 119 3 What to See & Do ...... 90 8 Aurangabad & the Ellora 4 Where to Stay ...... 97 and Ajanta Caves ...... 122 Hot Spots with Views ...... 104

5 : Party in Paradise 131

1 Arrival & Orientation ...... 132 Shopping the Global Village Fast Facts: Goa ...... 137 Markets ...... 143 2 Panjim (Panaji) & Old Goa ...... 138 Psychedelic Journeys ...... 154 3 North of Panjim ...... 142 4 South of Panjim ...... 154

6 God’s Own Country: & Lakshadweep 159

Ayurveda: Kerala’s Fast Facts: Trivandrum ...... 195 Healing Balm ...... 160 4 From to the 1 (Cochin) ...... 161 Tip of India ...... 200 Fast Facts: Kochi ...... 168 Watching the Sun Rise from the 2 The Backwaters ...... 181 Subcontinent’s Southernmost Tip . . .202 Cruising Kerala on the World’s 5 Lakshadweep ...... 209 Smallest Luxury Liner ...... 184 6 The Cardamom Hills & 3 (Trivandrum) Wildlife Sanctuary ...... 210 & Varkala ...... 193 7 Malabar: Northern Kerala ...... 217

7 Tamil Nadu: The Temple Tour 222

1 ...... 223 The City of Dawn: Sixties Rule of the Screen Gods. Sci-Fi in the 21st Century ...... 244 And Money...... 224 4 Tiruchirappalli (Trichy), Thanjavur Fast Facts: Chennai ...... 227 & Chettinad Region ...... 250 2 Mahabalipurum (Mamallapuram) . . .237 5 Madurai ...... 255 3 Pondicherry (Puducherry) ...... 241 02_169087 ftoc.qxp 1/24/08 11:49 PM Page v

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8 Karnataka & : Kingdoms of the South 260

1 ...... 261 3 Exploring the Hoysala Fast Facts: Bangalore ...... 262 Heartland: Belur, Halebid & Sravanabelagola ...... 281 Learn the “Art of Living” with India’s Hot New Age Guru ...... 265 Traveling Via Mangalore ...... 283 Swinging in the Hip City 4 Hampi & the Ruined City of Bangalore ...... 271 of Vijayanagar ...... 284 Rejuvenation City: Tip-Top Spas . . .273 5 Side Trip to Northern Karnataka . . .288 2 Mysore ...... 274 6 Hyderabad ...... 290

The Heart of India: , the Taj, Uttar Pradesh & 9 Madhya Pradesh 299 1 Delhi ...... 300 Up in Flames ...... 354 A Tale of Seven Cities ...... 304 4 Khajuraho ...... 364 Fast Facts: Delhi ...... 309 5 Bandhavgarh National Park ...... 374 Five-Star Culinary Flagships 6 Orchha ...... 377 Where You Can’t Go Wrong ...... 330 The Gems of Gwalior ...... 378 2 Agra ...... 339 7 Bhopal & Sanchi ...... 381 The Life & Times of the Mughal 8 The Fortress City of Mandu ...... 384 Emperors ...... 342 3 (Benaras) ...... 352

10 Rajasthan: Land of Princes 387

Land of Thirst: Rajasthan Today . . .388 The Dargah Sharif & Other 1 Planning Your Trip to Rajasthan . . .388 Ajmer Gems ...... 438 Once Were Warriors: The Passport to Pushkar: Saying History of the Rajput ...... 392 Your Prayers ...... 440 2 Jaipur ...... 395 7 Udaipur ...... 444 Fast Facts: Jaipur ...... 401 Indian Solutions to a Global Problem ...... 450 Understanding the Commission System ...... 417 Battling for a Glimpse of Beauty . . .453 3 The National Parks ...... 420 8 Jodhpur ...... 467 4 Bundi ...... 429 9 Jaisalmer ...... 476 5 Shekhawati ...... 432 Bikaner & the Temple of the Rats ...... 482 6 Pushkar ...... 436 02_169087 ftoc.qxp 1/24/08 11:49 PM Page vi

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11 Himachal Pradesh: On Top of the World 486

1 Staying Active ...... 488 4 Exploring Kinnaur & Spiti ...... 502 2 The Golden Temple in Amritsar . . . .489 5 The Valley of the Gods: Fast Facts: Amritsar ...... 489 Central Himachal ...... 508 Visiting Le Corbusier’s 6 Exploring Dharamsala & Chandigarh ...... 494 the Kangra Valley ...... 512 3 Shimla ...... 496 7 Leh & Environs ...... 521 Fast Facts: Shimla ...... 498 Negotiating the Manali–Leh Highway ...... 522 12 Uttaranchal: Sacred Source of the Ganges 530

1 Garhwal ...... 530 3 Corbett National Park ...... 542 2 Kumaon ...... 535

13 (Calcutta) & East India 547

1 Kolkata ...... 547 3 Darjeeling ...... 577 Fast Facts: Kolkata ...... 553 Looking for Orchids in The Miracle of Mother Teresa & Kalimpong ...... 582 the “Pure Hearts” ...... 558 4 Sikkim ...... 584 2 Orissa’s Golden Temple Triangle . . .570

Appendix: India in Depth 593

1 India Today ...... 593 4 Indian Cuisine ...... 608 2 India Past to Present ...... 596 5 Reading India ...... 611 Dateline ...... 597 6 Bollywood & Beyond: India 3 The Religions of India ...... 605 on the Big Screen ...... 614

Index 617 02_169087 ftoc.qxp 1/24/08 11:49 PM Page vii

List of Maps

India 20 Delhi 302 North India Highlights in 16 Days 65 Agra 341 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Fatehpur Sikri 347 Highlights 69 Varanasi 353 South India in 2 Weeks 73 Khajuraho 365 A Leisurely Southern Sojourn 77 Rajasthan 389 Mumbai 80 Jaipur 396 Colaba 83 Pushkar 437 Ellora 127 Udaipur 445 Goa 133 Himachal Pradesh 487 Kerala 163 Uttarakhand 531 Kochi (Cochin) 164 East India 549 Tamil Nadu 225 Kolkata (Calcutta) 550 Karnataka 263 The Heart of India: Delhi, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh 301