TRAVEL

CATALAN MONASTERIES

SANTAMARIA DE MONTSERRAT, ON THE MOUNTAIN OF THE SAME NAME, THE GEOGRAPHICAL CENTRE OF .IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE COUNTRY'S MONASTERIES, NOT ONLY FROM THE RELIGIOUS POINT OF VIEW, BUT ALSO BECAUSE OF ITS CONTRIBUTIONS TO CULTURE, ART AND LITERATURE.

JOAN LLOPlS DOCTOR IN THEOLOGY

he monastic life which once flour- name, the geographical centre of Catalo- twelfth century Romanesque of ished in Catalonia is still of some nia, is undoubtedly the most important of outstanding beauty, with black hands and irnportance and offers the visitor all, not only from the religious point of face, for which reason she is given the af- a magnificent opportunity to connect view, but also because of its contributions fectionate nickname of La Moreneta, with what we could unexaggeratedly cal1 to culture, art, literature and even, espe- from the diminutive of the word for dark the "soul" of the country. cially in particular emergencies, its na- or brown. Leaving aside the nunneries, the follow- tional and political role. The religious im- The monastery belongs to the Benedic- ing are the principal offers amongst the portance of Montserrat is increased by tine order and is at present made up of monasteries that are now functioning in the devotion that al1 Catalans, even those some eighty monks, who ensure the mag- Catalonia. who have no attachment to the Church, nificence of the worship as well as car- The monastery of Santa Maria de Mont- profess towards the Virgin that is wor- rying out a series of quite remarkable serrat, on the mountain of the same shipped in the basilica. This Virgin is a cultural activities. Its choir school is

TRAVEL

known al1 over the world. The thirty boys contain documents of incalculable value. nity, which has eleven members. occu- who belong to it take part in the celeb- The monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet, in pies a modem building, built along sim- ration of the major festivals, alongside the region of Concade Barbera, 46 kilome- ple, functional lines, and uses the old pa- the monks. and sing the famous Montser- tres fromTarragona and 121from Barcelo- rish church of Solius, which dates from ratine Salve to the Virgin every day. It na, is another important centreof monastic the eighteenth century. does not perform during the Christmas or life, which once had a decisive influence The principal services open to the public Easter holidays or during July. over political and cultural developments in are: Laudes, or morning prayer (06.45 on The most important acts of worship open Catalonia. Now, after many years of aban- weekdays, 07.15 on Sundays and holi- to the general public are as follows: at don, it has recovered its importance, days); conventual Mass (18.00 on 11.00, concelebrated conventual Mass, of thanks to the presence of a community of weekdays, 10.00 on Sundays and holi- special interest on Sundays and feast Cistercian monks which, though not very days); Vespers, or evening prayer (19.15 days, when the choir also participates; it big, is effective and conscientious. From and 19.00), and Compline, which ends is broadcast by radio on Sundays and by the point of view of tourism, Poblet is a with the singing of the Cistercian Salve television on special occasions. At 13.00, must for al1 those interested in acquiring a (20.45 every day). The Easter celeb- the choir performs the Salve (except, of genuine understanding of the religious, ar- rations are characterized by their course, during July): this is one of the tistic, cultural and political history not only extreme simplicity, and are enhanced by most popular events, especially amongst of Catalonia, but of al1 the territoriesof the the monastery's harmonious, peaceful foreigners; before the performance of the . The monastery's church natural surroundings. Salve. there are Bible readings in six lan- and other buildings, a magnificent exam- There is accommodation, for men only, guages and a joint prayer session; after ple of Catalan Gothic, are open to the pub- where it is possible to spend a few days of the choir's polyphonic performance of lic every day, from 10.00 to 12.30 andfrom retreat, silence and prayer beside the the Salve, everybody sings the Virolai, 15.00 to 18.00, with the exception of monks. A group of enthusiasts of the the most popular hymn in Catalonia, with Christmas Day. Gregorian chant has been formed under words by our national poet, monsignor As regards the acts of worship open to the monastery's wing and from time to Jacint Verdaguer. At 18.45, Vespers, af- all, the most interesting are the conven- time they sing mass in the ancient style of ter which the choir performs the Salve tual High Mass (at 08.00 on weekdays the Roman Church. On New Year's Day, and another polyphonic piece. and 10.00 on Sundays and holidays), sung they present a recital of Gregorian The religious celebrations at Christmas Vespers (at 19.00) and Compline, the last pieces. From Christmas to Lent, one can and Easter are especially splendid, and mass of the day, at 20.40 (half an hour admire the artistic Nativity scene made are attended by people from al1 over earlier in summer), which ends with the by one of the monks of the community, Catalonia, as well as other parts of Spain singing of the Cistertian Salve. which is visited by thousands of people and even from abroad. Retreats, confer- During Easter, without losing their every year. ences, spiritual exercises, etc. are held typical Cistercian austerity, the services Finally, there is Santa Maria de Montale- regularly in the monastery's lodgings. are particularly impressive and on Christ- gre, the only surviving Carthusian monas- As for culture, the visitor can contem- mas Eve, before the Midnight Mass, very tery in the Paikos Catalans, situated in plate the objects on display in the mu- solemn Matins are held. the town of Tiana (Maresme), a few seum of prehistory and that of the Near Another Cistercian monastery, founded kilometres from . Because of East, as well as in the gallery of anti- in 1967 by monks from Poblet, is Santa the particular characteristics of the strict que art and the gallery of contemporary Maria de Solius, near Santa Cristina enclosure that the Carthusians follow, Catalan art. Researchers can apply to dlAro (Baix Emporda), some 30 kilome- there are not normally any acts open to visit the library and the archive, which tres from the city of Girona. The commil- the public.