The first wine to receive DOCa status, Spain’s sophisticated consumers may have a point, there is precious little highest classification, Rioja is without doubt the left in most Rioja once you take away the oak. It was the French who originally blessed the wines of this region country’s greatest fine-wine region. Neighboring with their unmistakable sweet-vanilla oak identity. As early as the Navarra, which was once regarded as the 18th century, a few enlightened Riojanos had looked to France, Bordeaux particularly, to improve their winemaking skills. The country’s best source of rosado but little else, is transformation that resulted was subtle compared to the radical slowly developing a reputation for other styles, changes that occurred in Rioja in the 1840s and 1860s, after phylloxera, a louse that attacks vine roots, had wreaked havoc on having upgraded its vineyards and wineries. French vineyards. A number of vignerons, mostly Bordelais but some Burgundian too, gave up hope of reviving their own vineyards ONLY A SHORT DRIVE from the shabby suburbs of the and descended upon Rioja to set up new wineries. Their methods commercial city of Bilbao, and the dramatic beauty of an upland dramatically improved the quality and style of Rioja, while other valley becomes apparent, rich with architectural treasures of the Frenchmen, mostly merchants from Bordeaux, opened up an 12th century, isolated hilltop pueblos, a philanthropic people, a instantly lucrative trade for the wine, as they desperately sought to generous tradition, and a hearty cuisine. boost the dwindling produce of their own devastated vineyards.
RIOJA Origins Rioja is oaky, and all attempts to rid the wine of oak are doomed Wine has been made in Rioja since at least the 2nd century BC, to failure. Oak is the basis of its fame and the reason it became when the Romans conquered the area. Rioja was sufficiently well Spain’s first and greatest red-wine success, and while critics who respected by 1560 that its producers forbade the use of grapes suggest that these wines are too oaky for today’s more from outside the region, guaranteeing the authenticity of their
N1 Salvatierra VITORIA Pamplona Aoiz A68 ALAVA s a Ir y Eulate ati a N240 B BURGOS 1256 1037 Salinas de Santa Cruz Ibargoiti Ripodas MIRANDA DE EBRO de Campezo Estella N111 Obanos N1 Peñacerrada Bernedo Pancorvo NAVARRA
A1 N 121 1436 Aragô n BURGOS HARO Sangüesa Los Arcos L Laguardia i Larraga Casalarreina n 586 Tafalla San Martín O Briones Viana a nsell r de Unx a e Sos del a s Cáseda n r le 1062 Rey ró Ti G Logroño Miranda Olite Catôlico
O Mendavia N120 Navarrete N232 Lodosa Santo Domingo NAVARRA A68 Belorado de la Calzada Nájera a Ebr u o N120 g e a r l I A15 l Entrena Carcastillo i r San e Ribafrecha j Adrián Ezcaray a El Villar Peralta San Millan N Viguera de Arnedo de la Cogolla CALAHORRA N111 LA RIOJA Sádaba Anguiano Rincon de Soto a ARNEDO 121 R N i ez g L u e Intensive vine-growing zone l Villanueva Cidacos de Cameros ALFARO Arguedas Rioja Alta
Rioja/Alavesa Santa Cruz Grávalos de Yanguas Cintruénigo 646 Rioja Baja Tudela Ca na 113 l d Navarra/Tierra Estella San Pedro N e a Cervera del A68 T b Manrique Rio Alhama au r ste A Navarra/Valdizarbe SORIA
Navarra/Baja Montana ZARAGOZA Tauste ma N122 Alha Mallén Navarra/Ribera Alta TARAZONA ÁGREDA Navarra/Ribera Baja Borja Ainzón Cava
Provincial boundary Delimited DO Region RIOJA AND NAVARRA, see also p.303 MADRID Rioja consists of three distinct wine districts: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Height above sea level (meters) Rioja Baja, the first two of which are inherently superior. Navarra, which 0 5 10 15 20 miles overlaps part of Rioja Baja, has a smaller area of vineyards, which are divided
0 10 20 30 km into five districts. A very small part of the Cava-producing area, most of which is in Catalonia, extends into Rioja and Navarra. RIOJA AND NAVARRA 313 wines with a brand on the pellejos (goat skins) in which they using the bush method traditional to the region. Aside from Bodegas were transported. Wooden barrels came into use in the 18th Domecq, which produces mainly pure Alavesa wines, Remelluri and century, but were five times the size of casks today and it was not Contino, two single-estate Alavesas, are both typical of the district. until 1860 at Marqués de Riscal that the first Bordeaux barriques were used (although there seems to be evidence that Manuel Rioja Baja Quintano was the first, c.1800). One particularly influential Baja is a semiarid area influenced by the Mediterranean, and is Frenchman, Jean Pineau, was employed to teach French methods hotter, sunnier, and drier than the Alta and the Alavesa, with to local growers. In 1868, upon completion of his contract, Pineau rainfall averaging between 15 and 17 inches (38 and 43 centimeters) was employed by Don Camilo Hurtado de Amezaga, the Marqués per year, but falling as low as 10 inches (25 centimeters) at Alfaro de Riscal, who was an admirer of Médoc wines and had lived in in the south. Some 20 percent of the vines growing here come Bordeaux for 15 years. He had planted Cabernet Sauvignon on his within, and can claim, the Navarra appellation. The wines are estate in 1863 and wanted Pineau to develop his new bodega in deep-colored and very alcoholic, some as strong as 18 percent, the manner of the most advanced wine châteaux in the Médoc. but lack acidity, aroma, and finesse, and are best used for blending.
RIOJA’S CLASSIC WINE DISTRICTS NAVARRA Rioja’s vineyards are located along the Ebro Valley, between Haro The wine-growing region of Navarra overlaps part of the Rioja and Alfaro, and throughout its hinterland, with vines clustered Baja, but although not quite in the same league as Rioja in general, around many of the Ebro’s tributaries, one of which, the Oja it is capable of producing some fine wines of exceptional value. River, has given its name to the region. Most Rioja is red and Recent marketing successes have halted the decline in Navarra’s blended from wines or grapes (primarily Tempranillo and vineyards and encouraged various ambitious trials with foreign Garnacha) originating from the region’s three districts (Rioja Alta, grapes such as Merlot, while previous experimental varieties such Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Baja), although many of the best-quality as Cabernet Sauvignon are now fully recommended. According to are single-district wines and a handful of single-estate Rioja have the Estación de Viticultura y Enología de Navarra (EVENA), Spain’s also emerged in recent years. most advanced viticultural and oenological research station, these Bordeaux varieties are ideally suited to Navarra’s soil and climate. Rioja Alta Logroño and Haro, the principal towns of Rioja, are both in the A rosy past Rioja Alta. Logroño is a very big town by Spanish standards, but Navarra was once virtually synonymous with rosado and this style Haro, at the western edge of the region, is an enclosed hilltop still accounts for almost half of total production, but what has community and a much smaller, far more charming, older, and really held back the reputation of this area has been the Garnacha traditional place. The area’s wine is Rioja’s fullest in terms of fruit (syn. Grenache) grape. This modest-quality grape variety can make and concentration, and can be velvety smooth. Bodegas Muga good rosado, but except as part of a blend, rarely excels in red makes fine examples of pure Rioja Alta, as do CVNE (Compañía wines. Garnacha makes up more than 65 percent of Navarra’s Vinícola del Norte de España)—in the form of their Imperial vines, so the region is ill equipped to develop beyond its rosado line—in nine years out of every ten. horizon. Furthermore, Tempranillo, the grape upon which Rioja’s success has been built and indubitably Spain’s finest red-wine Rioja Alavesa variety, represents just 15 percent of Navarra’s vines. This There are no large towns in the Alavesa, a district that is similar in proportion has, however, doubled in the last decade, and with climate to the Alta. Wines produced here are Rioja’s fullest in body Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon making up 60 percent and and reveal a much firmer character than those of the Alta and the 20 percent respectively of all new vines currently being planted, Baja, with greater acidity. It was to the Alavesa that Pedro Domecq Navarra is set to achieve a tremendous boost in quality. came, after years of intensive research, to plant a vast estate of 985 According to Javier Ochoa, former chief oenologist at EVENA, acres (400 hectares), cultivating his vines on wires as opposed to the perfect Navarra blend should be something in the order of
GRAPE VARIETIES IN RIOJA
Although there has been a recent trend toward pure varietal wines Mazuelo 7.5 percent for color, tannin, and good aging characteristics. This is (particularly Tempranillo for tinto and Viura for blanco), most Rioja is the Carignan of southern France and is also known in Spain as the Cariñena. blended, thus its character and quality depend to a large extent upon To the above a small proportion of white grapes, perhaps 5–10 percent the producer’s own house style. In addition to blending the strengths of Viura, may sometimes be added, but this tradition is fading. Cabernet and weaknesses of different terroirs, there is usually an attempt to Sauvignon is not an authorized variety in Rioja, but is permitted by special balance the various varietal characteristics of one or more of the seven dispensation for bodegas that have historically used the variety (such as grapes that are permitted in Rioja. These grape varieties are: Tempranillo, Marqués de Riscal, which uses 15 to 60 percent) and those that are growing Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo, Viura, Malvasia, and the little-utilized it on a trial basis. Although a number of bodegas have experimental Garnacha Blanca. plantations, Cabernet Sauvignon is not of any great significance for the vast majority of Rioja wines. A TYPICAL RED RIOJA BLEND Tempranillo 70 percent for its bouquet, acidity, and aging qualities. It A TYPICAL WHITE RIOJA BLEND ripens some two weeks before the Garnacha (temprano means “early”) Viura 95 percent for freshness and fragrance. This grape has reasonable and is also known in Spain as the Cencibel, Tinto Fino, or Ull de Llebre. acidity and a good resistance to oxidation. It is also known as the Macabéo Tempranillo has a naturally low oxidizing enzyme content, giving its wines and Alcañón in other parts of Spain, and is one of three major Cava varieties. exceptional longevity. Malvasía 5 percent for richness, fragrance, acidity, and complexity. Also Garnacha 15 percent for body and alcohol—too much can make the wine known as the Rojal Blanco and Subirat, this grape has a tendency to color a coarse. This is the Grenache of the Rhône, also known as the Lladoner and patchy red when ripe, so pressing must be quick to avoid tainting the juice. Aragonés. It is the major variety of the Rioja Baja, where it can produce Most white wines are pure Viura, although some contain up to 50 percent wines of 16 percent alcohol. Malvasía. Some bodegas use a tiny amount of Garnacha Blanca, particularly Graciano 7.5 percent for freshness, flavor, and aroma. A singular variety in lesser years, to increase alcohol levels, but they do so at the expense of a with the unusual property of thin, yet tough, black skin. certain amount of freshness and aroma. 314 SPAIN
50 percent Tempranillo, 30 percent Garnacha, and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, but I wonder if even this is tempered by the large amount of Garnacha that will still exist when the replanting program has concluded.
NAVARRA’S DISTRICTS The region is divided into five districts:
Baja Montaña Situated in the Montaña foothills, Baja Montaña is the highest and wettest area of Navarra and the vintage is considerably later here than in the south of the region, hence the greater importance placed on early-ripening Tempranillo. Extra rain causes the grape yield to be between 50 and 100 percent higher than that of any of the other four areas. The district produces some of Navarra’s best TIERRA ESTELLA, NAVARRA rosados, fresh and fruity in aroma and flavor. The picturesque village of Maneru is situated near Estella, southwest of Pamplona. Tempranillo is the main variety grown in the area’s vineyards. Ribera Alta With twice the number of vineyards as Baja Montaña and Tierra Ribera Baja Estella, this is one of the two most important of Navarra’s districts. One of the two most important wine districts of Navarra, Ribera Ribera Alta borders the Rioja Alta and produces some of the region’s Baja is very hot and dry and includes approximately 20 percent of finest wines. The rosados are smooth and aromatic, and the reds what is effectively the Rioja Baja district. The wines produced are soft and fruity, but with as much as 40 percent Viura planted, this mostly red, made principally from the Garnacha (Grenache) is a major white-wine player and the style is soft, dry, and fresh. grape, and typically deep-colored, full, and robust. Muscat à Petits Grains accounts for 10 percent of the vines planted and produces a sweet Moscatel-style wine. FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY Tierra Estella LOCATION weathered limestone and sandstone Viticulturally as important as Baja Montaña and climatically similar HSituated in northern Spain in topsoil in drier areas. Limestone the upper valley of the Ebro River, with either sandstone or calcareous to Valdizarbe in the north, though gradually getting drier farther Rioja and Navarra are bounded clay and slaty deposits dominate south, the Tierra Estella makes pleasant, fruity reds and rosados to the northeast by the Pyrenees the Rioja Alavesa and Alta, while from the Tempranillo, which is heavily planted here. The and to the southwest by the Sierra a ferruginous-clay and a silty-loam Garnacha variety is less important since its wines tend to oxidize. de la Demanda. Navarra has the of alluvial origin cover a limestone second-most northerly vineyards base in the Rioja Baja. Some crisp white wines from the Viura grape are also produced. in Spain. VITICULTURE AND CLIMATE JVINIFICATION Valdizarbe FThe Cantabrian Mountains, a Most wines are a blend of at least The smallest of Navarra’s five districts, Valdizarbe has a slightly range that is modest in elevation yet three grapes from different areas drier climate than the Baja Montaña and is an excellent source of impressive in structure, provide a within a single appellation; very good-value red and rosado wines, although some of these have major key to the quality of Rioja, few are 100 percent pure varietal or an unfortunate tendency to oxidize. protecting the region from the single-estate wines. The traditional devastating winds whipped up over vinification process, which is still the Bay of Biscay and holding in used to produce the local vino precarious check the influence of nuevo, is a crude form of the Atlantic and Mediterranean. That macération carbonique carried out RIOJA’S DISTRICTS AT A GLANCE of the former is at its strongest in in open vats; the grapes are Navarra, and of the latter in the trodden after the first few days of GRAPE VARIETIES GROWN (IN HECTARES) Rioja Baja. Temperature rises and intercellular fermentation. This is BLACK VARIETIES RIOJA ALTA RIOJA ALAVESA RIOJA BAJA REGIONAL TOTAL rainfall decreases as one moves much as Beaujolais wines used to Tempranillo 14,470 8,960 7,616 31,046 eastward to the Mediterranean. The be made, but the result here is Garnacha 2002 171 6,980 9,153 Pyrenees also provide shelter from much coarser, with a dark-damson Mazuelo 500 89 1,224 1,813 the north, but winters can be cold color and lots of youthful tannin. Graciano 93 52 250 395 and foggy, particularly in Navarra. Most wines are, however, vinified Others 4 - 170 174 Rioja can suffer from hailstorms and in the normal manner, but aged the hot, dry solano wind. longer than other commercial Experimental 28 52 92 172 TOTAL 17,097 9,324 16,332 42,753 ASPECT wines. Although recent trends favor shorter oak-aging and longer bottle- EVineyards are variously located, WHITE VARIETIES RIOJA ALTA RIOJA ALAVESA RIOJA BAJA REGIONAL TOTAL maturation, the character of Rioja Viura 4,471 1,442 1,675 7,588 from the highest in the foothills of still relies heavily on oak, and it is the Pyrenees in Navarra to those on Malvasia 79 30 18 127 essential for its future that it should Garnacho blanco 28 - 16 44 the flatter lands of the Rioja Baja in remain so. the southeast. Generally, the best Others 147 12 43 202 vineyards are in the central hill GRAPE VARIETIES Experimental 4 4 9 17 country of the Rioja Alta and GPrimary varieties: Tempranillo, TOTAL 4,729 1,488 1,761 7,978 the Alavesa. Viura (syn. Macabéo) TOTAL (ALL VINES) 21,826 10,812 18,093 50,731 SOIL Secondary varieties: Cabernet D Sauvignon, Carignan (syn. WINE PRODUCED (IN HECTOLITERS) AND BY ROUNDED PERCENTAGE Although soils do vary, the Mazuelo), Chardonnay, Cinsault, RIOJA ALAVESA RIOJA BAJA RIOJA BAJA TOTAL common denominator is limestone. Garnacha (syn. Grenache), Red 836,000 74% 572,000 92% 339,000 80% 1,747,000 80% In Navarra, limestone contains Garnacha Blanca (syn. Grenache White 150,000 13% 33,000 5% 18,000 5% 201,000 10% between 25 and 45 percent “active” Blanc), Graciano, Malvasia, lime, and is coated by a layer of Rosé 144,000 13% 19,000 3% 65,000 15% 228,000 10% Mourvèdre (syn. Monastrell), TOTAL 1,130,000 100% 624,000 100% 422,000 100% 2,176,000 100% silty-alluvium near the Ebro or by Muscat (syn. Moscatel) RIOJA AND NAVARRA 315
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF RIOJA AND NAVARRA
Note Unless specifically stated BARÓN DE LEY vintages) and Royal Carlton (one of BODEGAS CASTILLO DE otherwise, all recommendations Rioja Rioja’s Cava brands). MONJARDÍN (including “Entire range”) are for red ccbV tReserva • Gran Reserva Navarra wine only. Reds from both regions See also El Coto c are generally drinking well in their BODEGAS CAMPILLO third year, but top cuvées often An exciting single-estate Rioja, An up-and-coming new bodega improve for up to 10 years, and produced by Barón de Ley using Rioja growing a high proportion of exceptional ones can age gracefully exclusively French, rather than cV Tempranillo and French varieties. for decades, while most white and American, oak. It is currently one of See also Faustino Martínez Fresh, creamy-rich red and white rosado wines are best fresh and the two greatest Riojas in production Touted by many as a new Rioja, wines, both with and without oak. should thus be consumed when (the other being Contino). Campillo has been around for some Exciting potential. purchased. See p.304 for details of tEntire range years, starting out as a second label tChardonnay • Tinto Crianza the wine styles mentioned. of Faustino Martínez. Even at the BARÓN DE OÑA time of the first edition of this CONTINO BODEGAS AGE Rioja encyclopedia in 1988, Campillo Rioja Rioja cb was “often better than the principal ccb label.” This was because these See also La Rioja Alta Owned by CVNE and a group of See also Campo Viejo and Marques wines were used to break in growers (whose combined holdings del Puerto This small bodega at Paganos was Faustino’s new barrels, a strategy comprise the vineyards of this Part of Bebidas (formerly Savin), established in the late 1980s but that caused Campillo to outshine single-estate Rioja), Contino was not this bodega is now better known sold to La Rioja Alta in 1995, long Faustino’s flagship wines. the first single-vineyard Rioja, but as Bodegas & Bebidas or ByB, and before its wines had any chance tEntire range its great success encouraged other is under the same ownership as of distribution in Spain, let alone boutique wineries to follow. It also Campo Viejo and Marques del abroad. With a high-tech, stainless- BODEGAS CAMPO VIEJO stimulated interest in French oak as Puerto. The basic quality is rather steel winery and use of 100 percent opposed to American. uninspiring, but top of the line new French oak, Barón de Oña is a Rioja wines are usually very good value name to watch out for. cV tContino Rioja Reserva indeed. Labels include Agessimo, tEntire range See also Bodegas AGE and Marqués Azpilicueta Martínez, Credencial, del Puerto BODEGAS CORRÁL Don Ernesto, Marqués del Romeral BODEGAS BERBERANA Rioja (traditional style and the best), and Rioja This improving bodega has Siglo (modern style). bV relatively few vineyards and is best- t Reserva • Gran Reserva This producer can be disappointing known for its Don Jácobo line, at the lower end, but makes good although the underrated Corral Gran BODEGAS ALAVESAS to very good reserva and gran Reserva is by far its best wine. Rioja reserva wines that are full, fat, and tCorral Gran Reserva This makes some long-lived reserva sometimes even blowsy, with soft, and gran reserva of surprising oaky fruit. Berberana is also good COSECHEROS ALAVESES quality and elegance. Labels include value for older vintages. Labels Rioja Solar de Samaniego (primary) and include Preferido (joven style), Carta bV Castillo de Bodala (secondary). de Plata (younger style), Carta de Oro (bigger, richer), and Berberana Perhaps one reason why this is one tReserva • Gran Reserva reserva and gran reserva (best). of Rioja’s better cooperatives is that it is so small that it is hardly a tReserva • Gran Reserva FINCA ALLENDE cooperative in the commonly • Tempranillo • Dragon A large producer with major accepted definition of the term. Rioja Tempranillo vineyard holdings under the same The other reason is the excellent cc ownership as Bodegas AGE and location of their vines around One of the fastest-rising stars on the BODEGAS BERCEO Marqués del Puerto, Campo Viejo Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa. The Riojan firmament. Rioja has a well-earned reputation for style is always bright and fruity. tEntire range good-quality wines of exceptional tArtadi (including blanco) • Berceo has few vineyards and makes value. Its tinto wines are typically Orobio • Valdepomares ordinary basic wines, but good full-bodied and marked by a fatness AMÉZOLA DE LA MORA reservas and gran reservas. Bodegas of ripe fruit and rich vanilla-oak. BODEGAS EL COTO Rioja Berceo, located at Haro in Rioja Labels include Albor (joven style), c Alta, has the same owners as Bodegas Viña Alcorta (wood-aged pure Rioja Luís Gurpegui Muga at San Adrían, varietals), San Asensio (exuberantly cb I have encountered a couple of where Rioja Baja overlaps Navarra. interesting wines from this Rioja Alta fruity) and Marqués de Villamagna See also Barón de Ley tGonzalo de Berceo Gran estate. One to watch. (created for bottle-aging, classic and These are wines of immaculate Reserva fine rather than fat). tViña Amézola • Señorío style, grace, and finesse, particularly de Amézola tReserva • Gran Reserva • the Coto de Imaz and, more recently, BODEGAS BERONIA Marqués de Villamagna the single-vineyard Barón de Ley. ARAEX Rioja Gran Reserva tEl Coto • Coto de Imaz Reserva These are firm, oaky reds and fresh Rioja whites from Gonzalez Byass. BODEGAS CARLOS SERRES CVNE Formed in 1993, ARAEX is a group tReserva • Gran Reserva Rioja of nine bodegas selling Rioja under Compañía Vinícola del Norte de the following labels: Bodegas Don Carlos Serres was founded by España Rioja BODEGAS BILBAÍNAS b Balbino, Bodegas Luís Cañas (some Charles (later known as Carlos) excellent reservas that benefit from Rioja Serres in 1869, one year after his See also Contino aging 10 years or more in bottle), b fellow Frenchman Jean Pineau went Also known as Cune (pronounced Viña Diezmo, Bodegas Larchago Major vineyard owners, Bilbaínas to Marqués de Riscal. The house “coonay”), Compañía Vinícola del (voluptuous fruit), Viña Lur, are producers of traditionally styled style tends to be on the light side, Norte de España Rioja was once the Bodegas Heredad de Baroja (heaps Rioja. Labels include Viña Pomal but the reserva and gran reserva most old-fashioned and traditional of fruit, firm tannin structure), (deep, dark, and well-oaked with wines often have an elegant richness. of Rioja producers and its vintages Bodegas Muriel, Solagüen, plummy fruit), Viña Zaco (oakier), tCarlomagno (Reserva) • Carlos were legendary, easily lasting 30 and Valserano. Vendimia Especial (excellent older Serres (Gran Reserva) years or more. Ironically, these 316 SPAIN wines went through a dicey patch best-known label. You must go up excellent Merlot, but his Merlot- These wines had gradually acquired following the installation of a $23 to reserva level to find real richness, Tempranillo blend called Eventum a musty character since the 1960s, million state-of-the-art winery, but although the gran reserva (Conde has more finesse. prior to which they were always CVNE seems to be coming to terms de Los Andes) is unpredictable, tEventum • Merlot among the top three Riojas with this new technology. Recent ranging from pure brilliance to produced, but since they had the vintages appear to be picking up, absolute volatility. MANZANOS oldest and greatest reputation in hence its half-star rating, and, Rioja, no one had dared mention tViña Vial (Reserva) Rioja hopefully, this bodega will return to this until this book was published cc its previous long-established quality, BODEGAS GUELBENZU in 1988. Every one of Riscal’s 20,000 which should earn it two stars. High-tech winery blending the best barrels was tasted and 2,000 were Labels include Imperial (for finesse) Non-DO Navarra of tradition to produce a line of top- immediately destroyed, with the and Viña Real (a plummier, fatter ccV class, exclusively Tempranillo wines. equivalent of 600,000 bottles of style) and Monopole (the best of Taken out of the DO in order to tEntire range wine poured away. Another 2,000 the freshest, creamiest, oakiest style increase quality and consistency borderline barrels were earmarked of blanco). through less restrictive regulations, MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES for replacement the next year and tGran Reserva • Monopole the basic, ridiculously cheap, Unión Viti-vinícola a program instigated to renew all Guelbenzu Jardín is a wonderfully c 20,000 over 10 years. In turning BODEGAS DOMECQ delicious, easy-drinking wine made around the situation so quickly and from 30–40 year-old Garnacha vines Marqués de Cáceres is often quoted with no expense spared, Hurtado Rioja that is superior to 90 percent of as part of the modern school of de Amexaga ensured that Riscal This famous sherry house has not “authentic” DO Navarra. Guelbenzu Rioja winemaking, but is more would regain its position among only built up the largest vineyard Azul (primarily Tempranillo- accurately described as a traditional the world’s finest wines. holdings in Rioja, but has also Cabernet Sauvignon with 10–20% Bordeaux style. They are lighter, carefully pieced together one less rustic wines than those of tReserva • Gran Reserva • Merlot) is where the class starts, Evo Barón de Chirel consolidated block of vines, whereas (Cabernet Sauvignon-Tempranillo modern Rioja style that benefit from other large holdings are scattered bottle-aging. Antea is an excellent reverses the emphasis, plus 10–20% MARQUÉS DEL PUERTO throughout the region. It is, if you Merlot) was once the top-of-the- barrel-fermented white. like, a sort of supersized Contino line, but Guelbenzu has topped this tAntea • Reserva • Gran Rioja under single rather than multiple with the truly magnificent Lautus Reserva See also Bodegas AGE and ownership. The original concept was (50% Tempranillo, 30% Merlot, 10% Campo Viejo thus to sell a single-vineyard Rioja Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Garnacha). MARQUÉS DE GRIÑÓN Formerly known as Bodegas Lopez under the Domecq Domaine label. tEntire range Rioja Agos, Marqués del Puerto is part of This would create the desired ccV Bebidas (formerly Savin), along with prestige, while the lesser-quality BODEGAS GURPEGUI Bodegas AGE and Campo Vieja, and Marqués de Arienzo brand, produced Marqués de Griñón is perhaps better produces an elegant style of Rioja, from both own-vineyard and bought- Rioja known for its outstanding Domino with ripe fruit and good acidity. in grapes, would attract a healthy Located at San Adrián in Rioja Baja, de Valdepusa, Spain’s first Pago DO, cash flow through high-volume sales. where it produces the Viñadrián from south of Madrid, but it also tReserva If the wines of Domecq Domaine and Dominio de la Plana ranges, produces excellent modern-style had been richer and better, it could Bodegas Gurpegui also owns Rioja, including some wines that BODEGAS MARTÍNEZ have worked, but they were not, and Bodegas Berceo in Rioja Alta. incorporate “experimental” Syrah, BUJANDA marketing was further confused by Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wines also sold under the Marqués Rioja these wines being called Privilegio BODEGAS IRACHE c Rey Sancho in Spain itself. Domecq de Concordia label. Navarra This high-tech winery consistently could have been a super-single- tEntire range produces pure, fresh blanco and vineyard Rioja, but Marqués de This is a modern winery producing fine, firm, fruit-driven tinto. Arienzo has now assumed the unpretentious, fruity wines. MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA t mantle of this bodega’s flagship tViña Irache • Gran Irache Rioja Conde de Valdemar wine. A new cheaper brand is ccb called Viña Eguia, and the house BODEGAS JULIÁN CHIVITE BODEGAS MONTECILLO Owned by Dominos de Creixell, style continues to be light and Navarra along with Pazo de Barrantes Rioja refined, rather than either big or Bodegas Julián Chivite typically (see Rías Baixas DO under “The c exciting. Stick to the gran reserva. produces soft, mellow, smooth, Appellations of Spain,” p.309), Owned by Osborne of Jerez, tGran Reserva oaky wines with plenty of creamy- Marqués de Murrieta is known for Montecillo covers the spread of coconutty fruit flavor. its pungently oxidative blanco styles, from fruity crianza reds, DOMINIO DE MONTALVO tChivite Reserva • Gran Feudo reserva, which is impossible to through zippy blanco, to great Rioja • Viña Marcos criticize, even if some vintages taste gran reserva reds. b like a cup of lemon tea brewed in tViña Cumbrero (blanco) • This is an innovative barrel- BODEGAS LAGUNILLA new oak, as it is considered to be Reserva • Gran Reserva the epitome of its style. Marqués fermented, pure Viura blanco. Rioja tDominio de Montalvo Viura de Murrieta whites contain more BODEGAS MUERZA Lagunilla is decent and dependable, freshness and fruit than they used but rarely exciting, even though the to. A remarkable range of old Rioja BODEGAS FAUSTINO wines are usually pure Tempranillo ? MARTÍNEZ vintages remain commercially and one of its labels, Viña available, especially the venerable The cheapest reds made here are Rioja Herminia, enjoys a good reputation Castillo Ygay. light, peppery wines that spoil the in Spain itself. It is best to stick to c t reputation of this bodega, which older vintages and gran reservas. Ygay Etiqueta Blanca • Ygay If given sufficient bottle-age (keeping Reserva • Castillo Ygay also produces relatively inexpensive reservas and gran reservas that are five years will do no harm) Faustino LEALTANZA reserva and gran reserva can attain MARQUÉS DE RISCAL firm and oaky with good, old- exceptional finesse, but are often Rioja fashioned, life-preserving acidity. Rioja outshone by Campillo, which started cc t ccb Rioja Vega (Reserva, Gran out as a second brand tasked with High-tech winery blending the best Reserva) soaking up the unwanted oakiness of tradition to produce top-class, When the first edition of this book from the bodega’s new barrels. exclusively Tempranillo wines. came out, Riscal’s Swiss importer BODEGAS MUGA tFaustino V (Reserva) • faxed Francisco Hurtado de Amexaga tEntire range a copy of this page claiming “the Rioja Faustino I (Gran Reserva) ccb BODEGAS MAGAÑA red wines from Rioja’s most famous FEDERICO PATERNINA bodega have an unpleasant musty- Lovely rosado here, but the reds are Navarra mushroom character,” upon receipt really top-class, especially Prado Rioja c of which Hurtado de Amexaga Enea. The basic Muga crianza is These wines are generally light and Juan Magaña is best-known for recalled his top winemaker from much younger and fresher, but can lacking, especially Banda Azul, its varietal wines, particularly the Riscal’s Rueda outpost to investigate. be bottle-aged to obtain a similar RIOJA AND NAVARRA 317 elegance and seductive, silky finish PALACIO DE LA VEGA LA RIOJA ALTA responsible for establishing this to those found in the Prado Enea. Navarra Rioja bodega’s current reputation. Labels tEntire range cb cc include Viña del Portillo, Viña Ecoyen, and Viña del Perdón. José María Nieves produces BODEGAS MURUA beautifully packaged, stylish wines tGran Vino del Señorió de Sarría • Viña del Perdon • Rioja that are brimming with fruit and c finesse. He makes them exclusively Viña Ecoyen • Blanco seco • from vines grown on this Rosado This is a small winery dedicated excellent estate. to producing pure Rioja Alta BODEGAS SIERRA Tempranillo of some finesse. tCabernet Sauvignon (Reserva) CANTABRIA tReserva • Gran Reserva BODEGAS Rioja c BODEGAS NEKEAS PIEDEMONTE These are large vineyard owners Navarra Navarra c producing an easy-drinking Rioja, cc with lush fruit, its fatness often lifted bodega The amazing discovery of the This is an up-and-coming , by an intense cherry tang. Other 1996 International Wine Challenge, which produces excellent Cabernet labels include Bodegas Eguran. Nekeas defeated some of the Sauvignon with a silky texture and a spicy finesse. The Viña Alberdi crianza is an tCodice • Reserva greatest Chardonnays from excellent introduction to these tOligitum Cabernet Sauvignon Burgundy and the New World to wines, but the serious business VIÑA IJALBA win the coveted Chardonnay begins with the elegant Viña Arana Trophy. Made by Spain’s former BODEGAS PRÍNCIPE Rioja and Viña Ardanza reservas, which c agricultural minister, Francisco San DE VIANA are remarkably complex wines Martin, who certainly knows his considering that they account for One of the smallest and potentially vines, and probably his onions, too. Navarra most exciting of Rioja bodegas, bV more than half of the firm’s tEntire range production. The Gran Reserva 904 making startling wines in weird Formerly known as Agronavarra is an exceptionally concentrated and bottles, including a rare, pure Cenal and having devoured and classy wine, while the Gran Reserva Graciano. Warranting two stars BODEGAS OCHOA dispensed with Bodegas Canalsa, 890 is a rare product indeed. by the next edition? Navarra Príncipe de Viana, the firm’s tIjalba (Graciano) • Solferino ? tBarón de Oña • Viña Alberdi premium product, has been (Tempranillo) The well-known Bodega Ochoa adopted as the name of the high- • Viña Ardanza (Reserva) • Gran Reserva 904 • Gran has been disappointing of late, but tech bodega. Bodegas Príncipe VIÑA SALCEDA EVENA’s (see p.313) former head de Viana wines have become Reserva 890 oenologist certainly has the something of a bargain compared to Rioja knowledge, equipment, and those of other top Navarra bodegas, BODEGAS RIOJA c expertise to produce top-flight which have gained in price as they SANTIAGO Fresh, gluggy crianza reds, huge, have achieved greater quality. rich, and serious gran reservas. Navarra wines once again, so I Rioja will reserve my judgment. Príncipe de Viana does not have the tGran Reserva finesse of the best Navarra wines, Memories of excellent 1950s vintages from Rioja Santiago BODEGAS OLARRA but they are much cheaper and VIÑA TONDONIA have oodles of rich, coconutty fruit, tasted in the 1970s are fading Rioja which I associate with American oak, fast by today’s acceptable, but López de Heredia Viña Tondonia c although some of the wines claim hardly special, standards. Other Rioja This ultramodern, high-tech winery to use French barrels. Labels include labels these days include Vizconde cb always used to produce a good Agramont and Campo Nuevo. de Ayala. Just up the hill from the very Rioja across the range, but vintages tCabernet Sauvignon • tGran Condal (Reserva, Gran traditional Bodegas Muga is became erratic in the mid-1980s, Chardonnay Reserva) Tondonia, a firm that makes Muga then decidedly poor, but look high-tech. It is impossible to improvements were first noticed BODEGAS RIOJANAS find a more old-fashioned bodega, with the 1990 vintage in the mid- BODEGAS from the huge cobwebs in the 1990s, so my fingers are crossed. RAMÓN BILBAO Rioja tasting room to the religious dipping cb Labels include La Catedral. Rioja into wax of all bottle ends as if they A traditional bodega that has tAñares and Cerro Añón ranges b contained port. The wines are rich built its reputation on red wines, and oaky, and capable of great age. With few of its own vineyards and particularly the reserva and gran Tondonia is the finest, Bosconia the a small production from mostly BODEGAS PALACIO reserva versions of its rich-oaky fattest, and Cubillo the youngest. bought-in grapes, Ramón Bilbao’s Rioja Viña Albina and the dark, plummy tViña Bosconia • Viña Cubillo cb best wine is Viña Turzaballa. Monte Real with its vanilla-spice • Viña Tondonia (including Its blend contains 90 percent aftertaste. An old bodega that has truly excelled Tempranillo, and the wine is blanco) since the early 1990s, Palacio uses given plenty of time in oak. tCanchales (Vino Nuevo) • both French and American oak, Viña Turzaballa and also benefits Viña Albina (Reserva) • Monte VINÍCOLA DE LABASTIDA with wines ranging from the pure from up to six years further aging Real (Reserva) Tempranillo Cosme Palacio y Rioja in bottle. b Hermanos, a very traditional Rioja SAN VICENTE that is consistently Palacio’s best wine, tViña Turzaballa Gran Reserva This is probably the best and Milflores, which gushes with Rioja cooperative in Rioja. cc delicious, juicy fruit, making it one REMELLURI tGastrijo (Reserva) • Castillo of the better joven wines produced. Top quality Rioja from the makers Labastida (Gran Reserva) La Granja Nuestra Señora of Numanthia in Toro. tCosme Palacio y Hermanos • de Remelluri Glorioso • Milflores Rioja tEntire range VINÍCOLA NAVARRA cc Navarra BODEGAS PALACIO These single-vineyard Riojas of BODEGA DE SARRÍA V REMONDO consistently high quality from Navarra Richly colored and flavored wines, Labastida de Alava possess c sometimes a touch porty, but Rioja exquisite balance, elegance, always cheap and good value, cc A large, well-established estate with and finesse, great richness of ripe a modern winery, producing clean, Vinicola Navarra is part of the Class Rioja from the gifted hands of fruit, and a long creamy-vanilla fruity wines that are constantly sprawling ByB empire. Alvaro Palacio. oak finish. improving despite the death of tLas Campanas • Castillo de tEntire range tLabastida de Alava Francisco Morriones, the oenologist Tiebas (Reserva)