Great North Road DISCOVERY TRAIL

This trail follows the corridor of Drive summary �� the first fully constructed road • 165km (one way): � � � � � � � 3hr drive (one way) �� from Sydney to the Hunter Valley, � � � � � � � � • Narrow sealed �� through scenery that is much as it � roads, unsealed � � � � � � � �� was in the 19th century. The Great roads (dry weather � � � �� only). � North Road was built with convict �� • Start: Wisemans � � labour between 1826 and 1836 and � �� Ferry � � substantial sections of it still survive. � � �� • Finish: Bulga �� Highlights comprise the historic �� • Alerts!: Winding, � �� features along the way including the �� unsealed roads �� Old Coach Road and historic villages in variable � � � � � �� condition. Suitable �� of St Albans, Wollombi and Broke, �� for experienced �� Finchley Lookout and Aboriginal country drivers only. � � � � � ��

� � � �� engravings and the Macdonald Valley. � � ��

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�� Description �� From Wisemans Ferry follow the sealed � �� Settlers Road 19km to the historic village � �� of St Albans. Continuing up the scenic � � � � ��

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Macdonald Valley, the now unsealed Mogo � �

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Creek Road (may be closed after rain) passes � ��

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� � � � the waterbird haven of St Albans Common � �� (bring the binoculars) before climbing up the �� valley of Mogo Creek through tall blue gums. � ��

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The pleasant Mogo Camping Area (walking � ��

� � � tracks) is passed on the right, with glimpses � �� towards Mount Yengo on the left, before � �� the sealed George Downes Drive is reached, �� 36km from St Albans. ��

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Turn left and follow George Downes Drive �

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16km to Laguna. But just before Laguna on � � �

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You can easily spend � the left is the Finchley turnoff into Yengo �� from several hours � � � National Park. Although narrow, the circuit � � �

to an overnight stay � � �

� around the Finchley and Boree Tracks is quite �

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� � � � here, before driving �� negotiable by 2WD and not to be missed if at � � 30km north through �� all possible. �� Paynes Crossing to � � � � � � � � Follow the signposts to the Finchley Trig � � Broke. Parts of this � �

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� � lookout, then a little further on to Finchley � �� section are unsealed, � � Aboriginal Area. The trig gives a stunning � � with sections of old- �� panorama over the bushland of Yengo �� style, post-and-rail �� National Park. The engravings on the fencing alongside. Finchley rock platform include animals, �� The historic buildings footprints and spirit figures. It’s worth of Broke are worth planning an overnight stop at the nearby an extended break campsite to fully appreciate this area. Back before turning left north-west to Milbrodale and the intersection with the Putty Road at Laguna, the Wollombi Road follows the into Milbrodale Road and the main Greater Blue Mountains Drive. Turn right towards meandering Wollombi Brook north to the which leads 14km Bulga and Singleton. historic Wollombi village. Great North Road DISCOVERY TRAIL: an account of things to see and do along the

The Great North Road discovery trail is you can see the massive blocks that were as it is more properly pronounced by local a journey where modern travellers can man-handled into position to form the Aboriginal people The full view extends immerse themselves in this rich history and retaining walls. Then, as the road reaches the some 200 km, from the Mount Tomah-Mount the ambience of a landscape that remains ridge-top, breathtaking views open out over Wilson ridges in the central Blue Mountains much as it was, way back then. Skimming the the Hawkesbury River. to the Mount Royal Range beyond the Hunter eastern edge of the Greater Blue Mountains Valley. Volcanic peaks that lie on the far Once on this side of the Hawkesbury- World Heritage Area, the route takes in edge of the World Heritage Area mark the Macdonald River confluence, the easiest way a unique blend of natural and historical western horizon. Between lies the sandstone to St Albans is to continue up the Settlers features and an Aboriginal landscape of labyrinth that befuddled white pathfinders Road. Part of it is unsealed, but there’s more mystical significance. but nourished the Darkinjung and their of that later anyway! At St Albans, the shady neighbours for millennia. To reach Wisemans Ferry I followed the grounds of the historic pub are a welcome Hawkesbury Discovery Trail – a pleasant respite from hot weather, before meandering I was lucky to arrive in the evening and drive through mixed bushland and rural on up the beautiful valley on the gravel witness a sunset thunderstorm moving residential areas, with the Blue Mountains Mogo Creek Road. over the land, silhouetting the dark mass of escarpment rising to the west. Just before Yango, the sacred mountain. The elemental The alluvial flats were green from recent rain, the road drops to the Hawkesbury River power and colour of the storm seemed to and bush-clad hills and rocky bluffs rose I stopped for the impressive view from reflect the Aboriginal belief that Yango is into a blue sky. St Albans Common is an area Hawkins Lookout. The river lay below, with the stepping-stone to the sky of the creation of floodplains and wetlands with a good the Macdonald River entering in the distance being Biamie. population of waterbirds. Without trying too and the Webbs Creek ferry plying back and hard, I saw a pelican, black ducks and some forth. The picnic facilities at the lookout I just had time before dark to drive to the other feathery creatures, so binoculars are include the first of many informative signs nearby Finchley Camping Area, where the recommended for keen birdwatchers. about the Great North Road. frogs in a small dam serenaded me to sleep. But I was up again early the next morning, Mogo Creek winds up into the hills and the Webbs Creek ferry leads to straightforward, keen to revisit the lookout at dawn. And even road follows it, with large Sydney blue gums sealed road access up the Macdonald more important, the steep angle of light at and vine-covered rocks crowding overhead. Valley to St Albans. But if you want to check either end of the day is the best for viewing The wildlife must be plentiful, because signs out some of the best surviving bits of the the intriguing rock engravings at Finchley warn not only of the usual kangaroos and Great North Road, like I did, its best to take Aboriginal Area. The figures include animals, wombats, but koalas and rock-wallabies too! Wisemans Ferry across the river. Both ferries footprints and spirit figures. Informative signs operate continuously 24/7, so there’s usually Yengo National Park’s Mogo Camping Area explain that the engravings may represent a only a short wait before you can drive on. is a good place to see some of the locals. map of the landscape. When I rolled in, a swamp wallaby jumped As the ferry glides over the tidal waters, it’s I was reluctant to leave this remarkable part away and blue wrens were hopping about easy to see why the ascent from the river of Yengo, but the winding road beckoned. on the grass. Mogo has a cooking shelter, onto the plateau was such a problem for Back on George Downes Drive, I turned north information display, toilets and barbecues. the Great North Road planners. They took down the valley of Wollombi Creek. The It’s a good base for exploring more of the two attempts to find a reasonable route hamlet of Wollombi is rightly famous for its Great North Road, but if you really want through the sandstone bluffs crowding historic buildings, cafes and galleries, and a to get into the wilds of Yengo its best to the steep headland. Surveyor-General (and range of accommodation is on offer in the continue on to Finchley. famed explorer) Sir Thomas Mitchell thought area if camping is not your style. More luxury the original Finchs Line was too steep Yango Creek Road leaves George Downes is just around the corner, because on the and perilous, and directed that a road be Drive some 15 km north of Bucketty. From way to Broke the wineries become ever more constructed up Devines Hill instead. there a 36 km circuit around the Boree, frequent. Yango and Finchley Tracks provides a neat Both these routes are well preserved. A Finally, the Milbrodale Road leads out to introduction to this vast bushland area, with walk up either, on the trail of the convicts, the Putty Road, Bulga and the Greater Blue its gnarly yellow bloodwoods, colourful reveals the amazing work that they achieved: Mountains Drive. You can continue your sandstone and views over distant ridge- buttresses, culverts, 12 metre high retaining journey into the Hunter Valley and around tops. Although a four-wheel-drive vehicle walls, quarries and even Hangman’s Rock! the top end of the World Heritage Area, is preferable, it is by no means essential if I just did a stroll to the top of Finchs Line, or return to western Sydney in the historic you’re used to bumpy bush roads. Drivers do but the best option if you have more time footsteps of explorers Howe, Singleton and need to follow the map and signs carefully as is the nine kilometre circuit around both Miles (on the Putty Road). there are many wrong turns to be made and routes. These sections are part of the 16 km areas of private land. of the Great North Road that is largely intact and protected in Dharug National Park. Finchley Trig itself is a surprise in this even- Overnight bushwalkers and mountain bikers topped landscape, with perhaps the biggest can follow a full 43 km of the Great North panorama anywhere in the Greater Blue Road through to Mount Manning. Mountains. Standing above all is the flat volcanic landmark of Mount Yengo, or Yango Finchs Line passes through lush, almost rainforest vegetation under the shelter of the south-facing cliff. When I was there huge The Greater Blue Mountains Drive has been established by the regions which share the mountains as their green sprays of Gymea lilies and grass- own backyard working together to develop the drive in collaboration with the NSW Dept of Environment trees contrasted with the white flowers of and Climate Change, Tourism NSW and Tourism Australia. Further development of the drive product has been enhanced by the ongoing involvement of Transurban. The establishment of the drive was proudly Christmas bush, grey myrtle and blueberry supported by the Australian Government and its business program delivery division, AusIndustry in a ash. When the old road takes a sharp bend program proposed and developed by Blue Mountains Tourism Limited. © 2007