The Spanish Table

Berkeley Wine Newsletter- May 2005 The New Part 2

In April we began a tour of Spain’s wine producing regions, inspired by John Radford’s book The New Spain. This month we continue our focus on the D.O. (Denominación de Origen) regions of Spain.

1 tannins are all present in this structured, D.O. robust red wine. $23.99 Rioja is the best-known D.O. in Spain, Dehesa del Carrizal Syrah ’01 – and with good reason. Rioja wines have This 100% Syrah wine is full-bodied and historically been the standard bearers of potent, with toasty oak, rich ripe fruit Spain’s wine industry. character, and a long tannic finish. $24.99 Often overlooked are the rosado wines of Dehesa del Carrizal Colección this region. These high quality rosé wines Privada ’00 – are perfect accompaniments to spring and The flagship wine from Dehesa del Carrizal summer menus. is made from 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah and 25% Merlot. This garnet hued Muga Rosado 2004 – blend combines supple oak, ripe berry fruit Bodegas Muga, the famed Rioja winery character and moderate tannins in a refined makes this dry rosado from 60% manner. The result is a wine of distinction Garnacha, 30% Viura and 10% that speaks in a clear but soft voice. $54.99 Tempranillo. The salmon-pink color, tart Dehesa del Carrizal acidity and dried strawberry fruit Cabernet Sauvignon ’97 – character are a perfect combination for Dehesa del Carrizal’s all Cabernet accompanying warm weather and Sauvignon wine is taut and restrained, yet summer meals. $10.99 elegant. The dry tannins, and plum-like fruit Ijalba Aloque Rosado’03 – character are concentrated, yet curiously Consistently a customer favorite, Aloque muted at the same time. $19.99 is made from half Tempranillo and half Corpus del Muni ’01 – Garnacha. This crisp, dry rosado is well This Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla crafted and exhibits bright acidity and designated wine, fashioned from 100% delicate red berry fruit character. $9.99 Tempranillo, is dark ruby colored and

exhibits a dry, tannic aspect at first, resolving into a well balanced wine with tart cherry Vinos de la Tierra fruit character and bright acidity. $18.99 The Vinos de la Tierra designation is less Mauro Tinto ’02 – strictly regulated than a Denominación de The new vintage of this celebrated wine from Origen, and permits a greater range of the Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla y Léon (a grapes varieties, growing conditions, different region than the preceding wines) is vineyard location and production composed of 90% Tempranillo and 10% techniques than in the D.O. regions. Syrah. Mauro ‘02 is obscure violet colored, with scents of oak and spice. The fruit Dehesa del Carrizal winery creates a character is deep and resonant of cassis and variety of Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla black cherries. The wine evolves beautifully from grape varieties more common in as it opens in the glass. $40.99 France or California’s Napa valley than in central Spain. Dehesa del Carrizal MV ’02 – MV stands for multi-varietal, which in this case is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 % Syrah and 20 % Merlot. Oak, dark fruit and medium-weight

2 the favorite wine of many Spanish Table D.O. customers. All estate fruit is used in the The Ribera del Duero region was production of Pago de Carraovejas wines. described in The April newsletter, but we Pago de Carraovejas Crianza is a blend of continue to receive many stunning wines 75% Tempranillo and 25% Cabernet from this region. Here are some new Sauvignon. The wine is rich and opulent, arrivals: with subtle hints of spice and cedar, well- integrated oak and supple tannin. $28.99 The wines of Pago de los Capellanes are Valduero Reserva.’98 – excellent examples of the Ribera del The new vintage of Valduero Reserva has Duero style. These well-crafted elegant arrived. This earthy, traditional Ribera del wines are receiving much deserved Duero wine has a smoky tone, reinforced by acclaim, and are available in several dry fruit character and substantial tannins. styles and price points. $25.99 Pago de los Capellanes Aalto PS ’01 – Joven’03 – This is one of the most celebrated of D.O. Made from 80% Tempranillo, 10% Ribera del Duero wines, from the most Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, renowned winemaker in the region. this joven (young) wine spends just 3 Mariano Garcia, of Vega Sicilia fame, is months in oak before bottling. The result responsible for this rich, highly extracted is a wine with bright berry-like fruit wine. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate character and lively floral aromas. $14.99 recently awarded Aalto PS a nearly perfect Pago de los Capellanes 98 point score, calling it “seamless” and “out of this world.” $96.00 (very limited quantity) Crianza ’00 – The crianza version of Pago de los Capellanes is a blend of 90% Tinto Fino and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine D.O. Bierzo spends a year in the barrel and another The popularity of D.O. Bierzo wines year in the bottle before release. Well- continues to increase with each passing integrated tannins combine with ripe fruit month. Here are a few recent additions that and a smoky oak background note for a were not covered in last month’s newsletter. classic expression of regional style. $22.99 Pago de Valdoneje ’02 – Pago de los Capellanes As always, Bierzo wines are made with the Mencia grape. Pago de Valdoneje is a lighter Reserva ’00 – bodied expression of Bierzo, while still This blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% retaining the loamy, leafy aroma and delicate Cabernet Sauvignon sees sixteen months fruit character of the region. $11.99 of barrel age and twenty months of bottle age before release. The result is a smooth Pittacum ’02 – and sophisticated wine of great This is a richer expression of regional style. complexity and finesse. $39.99 The earthy background flavor is accentuated Pago de Carraovejas by ripe rich fruit character. The sensory image that comes to mind is the smell of a Crianza’02 – newly tilled patch of strawberries after a The latest vintage of Pago de thunderstorm. $16.99 Carraovejas Crianza has arrived in the marketplace, and it is quickly becoming

3 Dominio de Tares ’03 – This wine is the younger sibling of Bembibre (described in the April newsletter), and the same winemaking Spanish sparkling wine, made in the método skill is evident in this more modestly tradicional (traditional method) of French priced offering. The wine has a ripe yet Champagne is the most popular sparkling restrained fruit character, backed up by wine in the world. Cava is not a D.O. aromas of fresh turned earth. $14.99 (denominación de origen) in the traditional sense of the term, because the vineyards and the wineries are not limited to a specific geographical location. The growing regions D.O. Rias Baixas for Cava grapes are widely dispersed, though Albariño is the predominant grape variety most of the vineyards are in Catalunya in in D.O. Rias Baixas. , in Northeastern Spain. Northwestern Spain, is cooler, moister Parxet Cuvee 21 – and greener than much of the rest of the Using the traditional blend of Macabeo, country. Young white wines are the drink Parellada, and Xarel-lo grapes, this Cava is of choice here to accompany the seafood dry and citrusy, with lively bubbles and a based cuisine that is also rightfully price that encourages spontaneous famous in this region (the return of celebration $10.99 warmer weather here in the Bay Area also Parxet Cuvee Dessert – signals the beginning of Albariño This unusual Cava is fashioned from the season). Pinot Noir grape. Salmon-pink with amber reflections, Parxet Cuvee Dessert is (as the Pedro de Soutomaior ’03 – name implies) a sweeter style of Cava, The Soutomaior region within D.O. Rias suitable for serving with (or for) dessert. Baixas is where some of the best Lively bubbles and fresh berry fruit character Albariño grapes are grown. Pedro de make this a memorable sparkling wine. Soutomaior is a full-bodied wine with $17.99 tropical fruit aromas blanketing mineral Segura Viudas Aria – flavors and lively acidity. $19.99 This Cava has persistent bubbles, green apple Santiago Ruiz ’03 – fruit character, and just a hint of the yeasty This traditional style Albariño is aroma that the higher priced Segura Viudas reminiscent of a trip to the seashore. Heredad Brut is famous for. $10.99 Scents of crushed seashells, and breezy light fruit character blend effortlessly in this sunshine colored wine. $17.99 D.O. Navarra Fillaboa ’03 – On the east side of the Ebro River, across Abundant floral aroma is the initial from the better-known D.O. Rioja, D.O. impression upon opening this wine. Navarra is home to a diverse range of wines. Bright citrusy acidity and lush texture This month we feature two of the more follow on the palate. The clean, traditional styles from the region that are refreshing finish is an incentive to refill appropriate for warmer weather. the glass again and again. Fortunately this wine has a modest 12% alcohol by volume. $17.99

4 El Chapparal de Vega enjoyed the local pink wine enough to Sindoa ’02 – recount the experience in their travel This red wine is made up of 100% old journals. The tradition is kept alive today by vine Garnacha (the most widely planted such stand out wines as Vega Sindoa Rosado. grape in D.O. Navarra). Accessible and This pink wine is dry and tangy, with uncomplicated when first opened, the nuances of berry fruit and tangerine. Take a strawberry fruit character diminishes with bottle along for a picnic on a sunny day (or exposure to air and a peppery back note on your next pilgrimage) to experience the develops with time. $11.99 wine under ideal circumstances. $8.99 Vega Sindoa Rosado ’03 – Back in the day (like in the 11th century), rosado wines were the mainstay of the Navarra region. Records indicate that pilgrims passing through Navarra on their way to Santiago de Compostela

Photo by Andy Booth

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