1429003
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Li.:', Pr:liner Fieldwork Pro ject r':ltthropology L3 i,\ecember 15, 1980 llmt0@
IrylFroDuorIoN Traditional French (janadian cooking blends original European l'rench styles vrith those that developetl in and around Quebec. The New ripgland Franco-Americans have blended the New iingland traditiorr into their cooking habits as !rel1r V€t Canaciian charac-beris'Lics have rernained Cestinct.
The French Caltadia.l repetoiye includes reci.pes which I developed out of farming, fi-slii.ng, and hr.rnting lifestyles' Canada was a land with plenty of lakes and rivers supply:Lng an abundance of fresh wafer fisir. Forests al:ounded with a wide varie.ty of Lo,anle, ranging from the larger animals such as moose and deer,'to smaller game lilce rabbits and pheasants' Fresh vegetables of all kinds, including corn and potatoes were garden growrr; wild beryies tfere commonly picked and used in recipes. The early cooks created from the racipes and traditions they knevt from France, usirg ingredients and resourses available here, thus developed the traditlonal dishes which havr-" been passed on through the generations.. (R tl t196?t233). fhe cooking tradition has been passed on in the traditional :folk life manner, directly from teacher to apprentiee, oral-ly and nanuall.y, in this case by the mother to daughter. Traditional cookitr.q habitr: rcvol-ved around the seasonal changes. Maple syrup was macle in spring; f rer;h vegetable and fruits were eaten in summer anci early fatl. Winter meals were generally more heirrty, correlating to the ccllder climate. Soup dishes typj-fied the winter nronths. Preparation for wi.nter funoe Qrn/nc -1- 14Us005
rneant a number af s lorin5 anrl preservi.ng tasks. Pigs were killed in f allr pro'ple snroked harns and ba(ron, and ma.de sausage. l'ruits were driedr n:3d€ into jeIlies, or pre$erved. Vegetables were often pickle,l .;r fr,:zen if possi.bl.e. Typically, meals revolved around such nabive in;Ivsdients agl corn, blueberries, maple sugar, pork, artd pork la1;. The r,rosb characteristic cooking utensil of the early .irrrjitcn Canadj.ans was t,'rat o{ the black iron ke'btle, which j.rt 'ttie e ar'1j.t:r:t daysr irury1 ,rver ihe open f ireplace. TraCi b,ional i:r; l;',,1e cocking reci pes inclr"tCe many soups and stevrs Religious and tradiLional. i"rol.idays invoked th.e making of many special holi'iay rJir;ires. The tourtiere or pork pi.e is probably the mosb knolvn of these'anC is sr..'::ved at the annual feast following the Cl:risbnas Eve rnidnight mass. Another exarnple of a common holiday clis!', .is tire Yule log cake, served on Christnass day. The migration of llr'ench-Candians intc tlew .Sngland oecured in the early nine'been'Lh cen'bury. The rise of the textile industry provided great j.ncentive for Canclians to move off their f arms where condition:] were deteriorating. Quebec was experiencing a second {amine at that tirne, and f arrns were of ten over crowcled and ex'rrausted. There was hardly any land lef t to pass onto Canadian $ons in the traditiorraL way.' (t a 14290G6 f airly high popula.ticn o [' ilranco-Arner-icans .yet the culture is not nearl-y as intact. I{any olCeir peop}e stiLl know and speak French yet the yoltl4;er generations tend trot to. Popular American culture ha;i replacecl ma.ny t::aditional realns. The early migrants seen 'bo have maintari rre d a cooking -bradition that was very sj-rnilar to the Canadian tradition. utany people owned lancl with animals and ga'rderts, and the yearly cycle was followecl in rnue,r the l;ane wa-v. Tradj-tional recipeS were often used. T.lrlay, againl the cookirg lrabits ol many Franeo-Amerieans !,a.it? been very Amer.'icanizcrl. i{Oderr} con- venience foodS of Lcn havc replaced cooking from "scr'iitch". f ha.vo giveri 1;hl-s brief cieseription of the Canadian cooking tradition apd b5o l.'r'anco-Arne:'ican history as a foundation with which to look at l.'ranco-Anerican eooking. I have. refrained from men-bioning too milrly $pecific dishes a;rcl related lifestyle information wiriclr I wish to cli.scuss in detail Jurther on as I heard of it from my inforrnartts. in this study, I have inter viewed fi.ve Brunswick womcn of li'ranco-American background (actually six-a sister wils present €rt one interview). I had originally intendet'l to irrterview only one or two ladj.es' but each one recommended another, and it seemed valuable to talk to a variety of peopl.e s.lnce each one had a tendancy to remember or participate i.n bjl-s arrci pj-eces of the cor>king5 tradition. The f ollowing wil-l be a llrs . lf our{a:: ,vir.r'i :lr':.1 i :ih'i;ed lo talk aboi.rt ii'rench* Canadian cooking" llirr: knew of rF.ally trayli'b,irrnn.I dishes through her upbringi,';g and var.ious cookbooks sher r:wned, yet she herself doesn't cook i.n the !'r'ench Ctna,lian tradition 'l ' [.,'i'.ti, FIrs. Tougas is it v{.rry wc l-l bred, vrerl sipo Ker racly-r,-d, u.na- i"r!,1--_- ,'i, .1,; , ---- /4i,,r..,,.s,.: .i.f f,t+),. upbringirrg as 'te1-l ar:,; ma.rried l.i f e rlrreffis to have allvays ae'ii't t"'tr't!'/)'( on the well brerd r:rid, s() 'ic s1,'eak. ijhe felt her upbringing was "sof t", and ti.:.r1,,r.jr lt::rr-"rrcC -l,o cook f or ,jlrL- relied on her grandmother and n,,r l,her f t;r tiri s. llrs._!-2g€g ri.:rnclni;er.ed ,,rL.,i'li r.l-[ her grandrno-bher, s and nrother's cookirig viiricir cid i:lvofv*: ilmc!r of 'ti'ie canaclian traditl.on. l-ronr l'rcl' ,.larclen, h:)L' ii;rartrlinotirr:r. rn;rde sa1'Led herbs to put in pera sr-1,-lIr. lllre herbs, r';li.s. 'I'oLlga:s clai.ns, are the secret o.[ t.l-:e ]rretrch.-(janadj^a.n pea $oup. Garden vege'bables were usierl througt:oLrt tllc' slliner, a.nd perserved f or the wj nter inon-Lhs. !'rr,lit$ bco were either preservecl in jars or made into ,;ellies, s-ich as cnabapple ancr grape jellies. Typica.l French-Canadian rii$l'res served by irer grandmother and mother were Ra.gou't, :,r 't;u'pe o:f rneat and potertoc stew, pork pie, and crbton a pork sprearJ serveri on breaci rrrrci crackers which her grandnother al-scr sol.r'i to a 1or.:a.1 market alon€! with her salted herbs. Soup$ t,nor incl.uciing pea $or.lp, were around all the time. Hrlr gra.nclnother cooked f rom a black stove, heated by wood. seasonarry, a tenclancy for heartier meaf,.s in the winter was recal-led as well as a rel.iance on the garden vege'bable -4- 14290G8 j.n guruner. iilrs. 'lr;r.i11;1.-l a'1.1:o ro""-1-leri crrr.tairi rJi:;hes tirat were served in corrc-Lati,:;n wittr specif i.c clays of the week. She remembers corn brrf br:in1; s;ervr:cl on Thurs,aays espee:ially at harvest time wi t;i: ',rt:.le'uahlesi. This vras in iine vlitlr the habit of the Thursdei' [11i-lrerl ilinrier. Sairtrdair:: were Eaked tsean cJays or de J.lvc, ar.r{ercl . Th.i,s w.ts in line with i-he New England traciition as rve il as ttrr irri.:ncli-CanerrJi;rn. 0n .irrndays a large special dinner ,,vriri rlsua.ll;/ s.e::ved I vi:ii,r'lir of tr-:ri included roast beef. Certain holida.y f o,:ds wril'(i a.l,so r.rlilrlnberr.rd by Ui--e ._Toj]€.eg_: At Iiaster ti-ne iter rnr:'tlrer ;i,atJe crr:quiqholes, atwiri-..eti tionut f ried in f at, with pi)wilcrrri slugaf i:n 'tr:p. iier 111st,ttr)r also marle liarS,arittes, wiiic'i i:: ,'i,r:itl-y sal'$iner'l -La:/ea rvi.ttr tl f ros'ting of eggwiii te, Itovlrler '-'t!iqar, itltcl walr:utl;, i.ralred in the o1{ren. Le touteir' [1r:rri{ }i:i:) tvzlsJ r,.rca_Lled a.s being prr+sent at the fegt.lvitj.es Jr:i.lovririg the Ch:'iclimas firrr: nl.dnight mriss. l'!rs . tJlor-t,qas' rnr.''bhi;r was \,'{:)ry rel-j"g.Lous :rrrd 0race wa:; always said tref orrl nir::i.l s. ijirs. To'-tgas tleve I' kept up that habit with her own f arnll-y thoirgh. fn zrccordance with the church, meat was never ta-lell cn -b'riday, fish took its place. In the realtr, o"f hoine brtl',vii, Iltlrs. 'Iougas' grandrnother made dandel.ion wine. A hollorrr€rri; renredie was iLl.so reealled' Blanc Monge, which was goc'cl f or $orc' thr'oi,rts since it \Yas smooth and creamy. She rec;allc'd thl'tt ii; wils & gr?1-e ben..like desert served with nrilk, and the rnaicing of it required collecting sea moss f rom the scii shore. l.n one eookbook I f ound this written of Blanc Monger "Orre: cf 'Lhc popular 'ccrmpany' desserts of the long ago was Blarrc ltronge. It was made with milk and Irish Uloss. 1@sos The moss, whj.ctr i.r; si,.l11 coll.ecbeil on thc'Fundy Shore, was rvell washed anr-l driecl in the $un. Consist.irrg chie{ly of vegetable gelat:ine it w&$ eonsidered a very noitrishing f ood f or invalids. " (i,Egu Nj-sirtengjnle:1971r 138) , Other disher; which llr's. Tcusas mentiorred as beipg French- C?nadian, Vet not neces.jarily relating to her family's cooking were Pate Chinojse (Chi.ne* I'ie) rnacle wi'bh hanrburger, corn, and potatoesi 0e]-enti.nc de t/eau (,.rr.:tiiea Veal), and La Euche .{ de,l,{oel., the Chj-.l,ne$ lcg cakc, . 'l'hi$ is a rolled eake with frosting that lonLr: like a barkr s€rverl -typically at Christma$roillci"il Other Freneh Can;r,Jj.an dishes sire had heard o-f wer:e maple syrup pie, maple syrup oi'i $nowr arlrl ccrldled eggs r:n map).e syrup. ROSAT,IE DiJSC}IENIIIJ &@-!&-has spellt her life j-n Brunswick. Bbth she &rrd her husband I s parerit$ came clown to t{aine f rom Quebec f or miIlwork. Her family l.ived on a farm. her father was not a millworker, he was;', crrripente-r in bhe sulnller months and fox hunted in the wintcr llost f ood eane di.rectly f rom the 1and. Vleat was always gotteh by kilLing thr:i.r orvn cattle or hunting. Again, the seasons played a.n important roLe in their food habits. In the fal-I, they h;rtl pl.e.-r'ty of vege'tables and potatoes. Rosali.e remembered pichir'ril 'Juronier apples and canni.ng them to use foq appLesauce all winter. Tn the fzr}l, vrinter apples were picked and stored in the IiosaIi.e clai inr.; 't;h'11 wei',.] ba:';.i.c;r11..y' rnea-': a.riC pot,;:.toes 'ri,t,') eaters. in tlie iit-!.1 'i;l:,.:y,r t '-l kii f c;.r-t blo r.or' j anci one or two pigs , enourlir 1 o r' llrr' win'ber' . iihe rrlrni\!1.. r r€rl havi ng lots o1 boiled dirrner':;, esprlc j.al1y L.\)rnbeef in t.trc {al1 . Her m Sundays, 'bheir 1i.i,'-'€.c: i j-niir:r, r:ucir as rabb j. b pj.e, rarbbit stew, or a roast. ltqjial_ic. r'+,rrnc.:llterrld helr inctlrrlr"ri tr;<.rtelboe chow as a f avc'rite nreal r;et-'v':rl vrii;lr breaC and t'ut;'1.*;1. 'fhe chow was rnade with peelerl a.nii :-:irt potatoes, wa-terr s&I1,1 onion, and slightly f ried s.rl.-i;i)d trror'k chunks , ltr.rsal ie c.l.airned 'that "people'd snub thei-r noliLr at 1;hnt J'rov/. In thoge days, f thought it was :-iome thing rvonderf u] " . (Descireneg r 1980 r interview) . Sal-ted herbs wers e,,-'1so apart r.rf her f anilies repetoire. ller grandmother rnacle ilnd i-r,ii.ve hel rnother sa.ltaiC herbs to use in soLrps every yeai'. e_sallg rer:e.-l1.s il.ab paricaltes ef ei.'::pris als making for a good, hearty brerirkfas.L. i'hese were served plai.n or with their homemade naplr: syrup. A delicio.rs 'br.eat would be crepes with homemade mo-tasl;es on 'Lop. r\notiter of her rnother's special dessertsrvrhit:i:r she learned from her motherlwas Brown Sugar Piei this was oLtt:n served at holida.ys. , .../) ... 1,4u,gJL'' Homc.: rerneci j_el j,ncluded ,l, nnn.yn;.'.cir.) co,r;.1'h Slfrrrp. tief mother would sencl ner f ather to tire '.voods t,c cirt the bark off a certain'bri::: (sire did not, remenrlrr.:r the narne of it) and to gathcr .frrr:!-pr,:r berries ancl other: i'ronegr"own herbs. These were s'teepr,rJ. lrrJ th.: rrrixture drunk. i{er rrrcther also gathera l I' I 1;4Zscuz TI{ERESA BOUCiiiT'NIJ Tire|a:,;a was bro;rglri; rtr) cn ar f ir.r'm j.n ,t.;i:l..woorl, Maine on I'loosehead Lake . hc:l gla.irriil,,LI'ilntsJ, it;r't,!r t;'r,-' j'_,til, originally calne froin Prince i:lilwarrl l.l:Le s/here f,itel/ lr..lso f .l.rnrecl. The f amily's ireri.tage 1i.cs j rt thc .F'rench Aca.cli*itradition, wirich stressed soLf -suf .ii.c j e'r;cy i,.nC i:ali.rrE! I or oire I ii f a.rnily . Theresa has vivid inenorier:t ori. 't,ryJ f :rnr -lifestyler the tiei' 'bo riay chores. She clairns she aird itei' glandmcl'ther vJere EIw41r5; tvlo , alwa,ys toge'ther. --Ie-re-sjl, v/a:j a. b.i'L too l/oirllg jrerself io activally learn how to cook wlrj. ie f.i.ving on the f arrn; a.t twelve years of We r:he left tlrer f eirn [o a.i,tend sc]roo-1 j-n a convent in Jackson, lilaine . ii':'r nr.tnrai'ies ar{) r-rrl extr:enre).y interesting and valuablt) source rr i' irrf crlin.'r'Lj.orr on tlie f oodrvilylr of. a tytrlical French-C anad iarn -[a.('i,i . I{er grandprrren l.r.r I arnt was comple'iel;'l' srii.f -sustairiing. Her grandf ather t'ai serl slicep, pj.;Is, ciri ckens, g'linee hens, duchsr cc,ws, wol'k ltor'*r,.o, and goats fron t,.irne fo tj.nre. They had a large garcien whj.cir illher:esa elaims grew mos't everything; noted especially, we:'e prJas, potettoes, and corn. T!:e farm was also comple't;e vrittr its own blacksmith shotr). An ice house was located on thi-: farn as we11, lvjttr ldoosehead la,lre being an cersy reso{rrce {or iL:t'. 'ltie} woirlci eut thir i-ce from the Jake, pack it, i.n savljusi; :r' Lirr ii:e ir<)usr.r, a.nd 'r.r,Jo-!d have ice the yearround. Inside t,irc lcitcr:en w:ts a woodstove used for cooking, and all e1se. Her ;:;ranrJrr;othcr's kitchen ware included a big iron kettle (used for soups), rj .r big, flat: 'i-ron pan (used for pancakes). A :;peeial cat;''c irc,n stove wars j.ocated in what plrnco EJ.^^J -T"k,.J Q-c Lro^ t.' L4Z9J1} rvas caIled the cooltlrlus:e . The stove had ;,r. l:u11tl po t-tike compartrnent on i l, :rnrJ wt:l"tj ilsr-)('l sclJ-ely to t:nrlit Inugh (vegetatll.es, corri, r:.iirl i;,r:1;ai;nll'; ,ilr tiie ani-na.ls. Tlie pigse shcep, iterr(-r, and duckr-r were ::Iaugh'bereC for thjfl meat. No'thing !,!,'a:.r wir.s'Lecl j.n t,ir-is proce!li.,i, This is exemplifjed by'btrr:'...r.r'j-oLis Llr.rori tor the parts cf the pig. 'dith the slaughteriril,; r;f bhe pigs in f all, "i'rogshearJ cheese" or creton was ma,-Jri. {';'ni-r; was the on1.y time T hati hea:cl creton ref e-.r'red .f.o asi hi:.gshi+lri cireese. ) 'Ihi s '1.'ireresa claims was a staple of thr-ir cliei. $alt tr>ork vra.s a.lso i'lade. The ir'i:.'rr'{JtJ pork was crlb in chunks, salted; prtt iri;r brrn4,.and hrought up as they needed i.t .f roir l-lre (:,:i1lar. Even the p.i,i:'s b-lood vras used for blood i;r:ir:)a,,-'g, 'lhi:,; vlag dun*: by i.rteedi:ii1 the pigs upoll slzrugir"bering; thr,rrn, :rn..l t:,.-rokirr;3 tl:o blr:cdr wlti.cir curdled in the process. Tirereiia '/,'ils irr.tclelir ls 't,o cxactly how this was tnade, but slrc :-i"ca11rt':1 lraving i,o t:l:r'g uF i;ire satlsage casings a.rrd stuf .f inil ti:crn with 'Liie blorrd mj.xt;,.ire. !l.ood puridirg is tlz,.sical-l,y '0iir: !';r!rni-) tlr.ingr not pllt .i.n casirtf.:;s. Naturaly, the $earorr::l played a nrajor role in thei.r food habits on tire farnr. As already nerrt.ioned, slai.rghtering time was in the fal-l-. Spring via..r the planting ser,son,and maple syrup season" t'hey nacjcl thej-r own cyrup anri llir.:resa .reealls snitching the rilw :-j,-rp ironr bi;; r,:i1k containers which 'they stored the sap in. Srrrnmer invol-ved some irarvesting and falL ended the harvest r;ei!.sorl witii preserving and ca.nning sessions. Theresa remembers lier airn1;s coming by to help lrer mo'bher can foods, Pickles were also nrade and s'bored in crockg. Theresa's I'4zgetE llrandtnother nrade liel" ovrn i',,i'l:'u.er. ilhe milk .f rom the cows was separa'ted witirLhr.' cl"riiun. The creaJil !yl.s ^:;ilv€d o:: made into butter with tire nsrr of a but,ter churn. r'r'orn tiie butter, bu-tttrrrni.lk lvas scncti.mes ii:ar-i<,' as well. A1so, on speeial occassions, homeln:;del .ic:e ':rr'earn was served. i{er" grandf ather did some fishing. elril li:cr:hvr;rter fj.sr dishes suci: as trout or salmon were not Llricomrri{}rt j,n their' }',oine. Ice f ishi;g was a winter pastti me , iii:h.)r- nrr.rr1 c a,-rght :;ne1 i,:; , tr.out I ;--ind sialriron. Aside f rom lirr) i1r)a'L rri:lies already lneniiont'd, Theresa reealled scrne o.tl llor g{ra:,dnother t;-r trro$'ti con:inor} dis}re::. Her gfandnothef ttsed -bn ill':tl:.' dri:rrtrll inalt,na.Ce vlit;ii rr:ii:ons and Salt pclrk. Ti:esr: vJLrt'f) ill-'Lrl;',:;t i r'rto br>il i r:g wa.tei.' t,r) c;ook and bc eaten with mapl() s;.lrnri), Ther:esa rlenti.otred iier grandnrother ha -!.h-grese"'s f :uliiy l'^t::'!,s very reli,Sipus. Grace was always said before and a.f [*rr neals. At nine o'clor-rlr. at night the t\ .-4c adr o- -11- 14U9O15 f amil:,r would rega.'Lher i.ii t;irc ki Lchcrr f or pl'nyi:r aga.il , llvery Sunclay a 1a^r:gl cliiiri..'r' lva:; serrreo j.n the Cir:ing roorrlr complete with a wirite -lir"re ,r ';lrtr-!'.r clot.l: sIiil riril'iciring r:aPkins. l{uns would erlways jci.i'r L}:e:r; .t,-rr tiiis rneal r irrr aunt beirg one of the nuns. thesc ilir:nct's \,;3r:e fr-rr prii.y.t.g, relaxing, and eating, and usuarll"f ilr.tf 1'z1ii were a roas't , ve,te1;abl-es r home,rnade pies and crtkes. ftolidays aIs'-r i'r'oi;.li:t; on spec.ial .ioods. Tireresa e mphasi zed New Year' s "ri tne: !.11g1r1.r:t-.ssrt Canadia:.ir hol i.cai.y , ,r;ore so then Christmas. 0n the ir(jrn.in,-q CIf lrlew Yea-r's !)a.r'.'l'heresals grand- father, beir:g the elcie:;'l n:r.1.e, lvcul.d ble.gs eacil neilber of the f amily. Tiren, eacl, i)ci':ror: w.)r..-[,i rr:cei',le r gi t i. Fcllowing the gif ts wortld bc a 1lcio.'! ec'i1.jitra 1.i..:rrt ivi t,l: such ::pr':c j-a.J-ities as 'loLtffitct and cleep ,lir.;1, atr.-o1 .-r pit'. i),-rri,lg m.'r-rl--l..lni, ?h,-tresa recafled tlic }{ica:'ilr',-: c,: leh:'lriion. Tiiir; she likened to a rural, sma11 scal"e i'i:rrd1r;rriti for tlrere was ple nty of sirgingt f iddling, and darr:eiir;',:. 'll're nricar?jr:e, :ihe si:..id ! was a persort dressed unlike an.v'tir.ing tl.l.s3. lt'liis pei'son wouJ.d bring candy and oranges to the childrer"r. Tl'rcresra created how own personal .'i l)':t t',iicardre vrho lived irr ';he iuountains rrear,,.where she could spot a foy of spri-ng r,la'Ler ei/a-Dlra.'hingi hi)r micarerc was clressed with a bag coverir'g i ts liead :rr.rd e.i"r:ij slar:j.r',11 cut. Theresa mentioned other l,ci j rlayftt*.rrch notir:g. rJn e\icrJi Ohristmas at midnight, a stor;' wtrs; totd o.f lrorv t.ire cows vrourlcl kneel in adrniration of baby Jes-:i.rsi. Also, she was to-Ld ;rs; a child that the sun da.nced on [r]al;l.cr nor"ning. -L2- 14e9$16 li'rme :lelnedi-e s vJiir'o rir.rt urlcomron cri th..: f a,-i:r. Bl6iiinde, a wild weed gatherctJ ir: t;ii,,:) slumrner wa$ i.rscc {,or colcis, It was steeped 'to rnake 1,eil.r and served vuitir sug::lr, )'et rheresa claims it tasLed;r'pfu1. i:r'rr^ a. L,ad r:hest col.l , her. gri:rncl* mother would uSe I,or.l t r.:r -'-cr;:; vlh j-r:li w':tre rnade r-.{ Jlannel. and f illed wi.th varj-oi,,s Lh jri.::r: r lii.r'cl being tno oli{,.r specif ic itern remernberod . The r,or.lJ i,r'ii'i,*i ri. r:l"d br: we-L-l;r:rJ o hea.t.e,l in the oven, then put on a r:h':.iL. ) I :#&€i-:Lrr {l Tirere si& ljl':l I Str) J:,t:: f iit: ci'rrirpe'ba.r-rr.'e ri f her grand- parents a.t the man,-v r r"!i:ir1J r;: ! 1l.s requir.eil b11 f ar.rn_l,if e . They would accoltiplish sc r:li.rch, .ivci'y clay. &gres-e nrentioned ttrat Acadians tencl Lo.Lii'e i.rr r,r verl/ oltl . They a.re harr.l workers, arli] thj.s keeps 'thei r trrrir.!.i-,:,,i i-r: gi-rod :-;]rape. He:' grancln Brun3!.' icL -13- LN6,g;I? childhood as a ve,r'; h:r.pp-,r onc, witit !o tnarr$ ici.ds *ouni: Her mother did nc:,:.i. .:.{ l,he coo}:ir',,; fc:: the fanrily, ar:d as a child Peggy hclpei her rriother, '[ri'Lnat rray she learned how to cook. Ur'.? i,rlo r*:nrbrl-r,j w;rLching jii)l: i.'i,.rther:, and j-earning that way. Remembering li:.clt, I'gjgrJ_ clairns her gra.ndi:rother was a "farnous" cook in 'fovln. l{er grandfather raised chickens, ducks r &rrd pigs, a.:rd her grandinother had irel. own garden and herb garden. Pegf,r* rr.:nembered her grancfunuthcr nakira.; a corn dish from their own corn. ;jhe cleins l:er gr.a.nqlmother soakecl dried eorn with lyu in u. hLrge copper boi.!.er';rnd served the rnixture vri'bh crerlrii ail'd sLiftar. Thi.L:, slre cl-airns, was. hef A t ..i/lrirr,,,1 ',;':l-.,., r'i;r:l';,:*r., l;;,.'.r.;*i1.r5,..-r,''/,":.L',.'rl,;,-i;rf't'Ut.:?f,(/lu+L.'ift'l',.t grandrnotirer's orvlr recj-;.r+-',i liire al.so rellembers her grandmother b:rking her olvn llrrl:r-l!;, r;r-rmething wtrich her r:ro'l,her and she never bothered -bo Co, fl:e herbs: f rom her llrs.nclmother's garden were sal.t'.,rJ An'i i.tsed i.n srorlprl. Pqggx' claiml: 'Lhat her parents we::e vtttrf modern, not the typical French-Cariir.dian. She and all her s;iblings went to public schoolr 4r1d a.ll gradrrerted. Her panents never stressed the maintenance of the Fru'neh-Canadiarr tracli'tions. This is reflected in the cookin6J habits of the Racinel as they were children, and preserrtly. Growing u.o, meaJ,s were basically meat arul potatoes. lleans and soup$ were a'[sc: cooked. Store bought Americanized foods such as bread and cereal were used instead of homenade items. Today, the iiacinqs do little of the traditional French- Canadian eooking except for creton which Eve rnakes quite often $tl and^occasi.onal pork pie. P*Sgy claims sherd stil1 make rabbit -14- 14ruSfB pie if $he f oul.d get a li.rr: i:'4'llhit wtrich :;he pr.:.rf ers. As a Chil-dr her bro'thers "v.'r*ifit.tttlri.ng ancl gct l:ares" wh'iCh shef d marke into pies. Iregg.y ree&11e tl Lirr,,: f r.:u'.:t; f olio'vin€{ tnid nj.r:h'L mass ' when they's come hone zrncl $e:'ve pork Fi-c:, or tcpt'i'iere. i'lew Year'S Day was the Canadjan's"irig ,iay'l ancl sire' remembered going from house to holtse in celr;bra'bion' 0n Sundays, PeRqy's ftrther would make candy for. the children to keep '!h.*rn satisfied whl-le [er mothel went to clrttrch, He would make rnoliluses candyf apul} chocolate f udge r 3.r(1 lornethj.ng she ealLed candyd'which he inven-ted himsel.f . 1'@ also nade the tra.di'tional Yule log cake, for birthder.-.f$ inor{-: ,)ften t}ru,n Christnac' LUC 1].,I,8 BiT iTI.JI II R Lu,cille Bernir:r' ir: bhe only ltomen interviewed who aetively llarticipa.tS irr the i,'r;ad,L*.i:ona1. F.retrch-Canadian cooking tradition. lter repetoire lnclr-rdes: recipes frorrt o'ther ethnic traditions as we.ll", }ut slie $till us:es mally recipes learned from her mother. i'ler motfter, she elaims, wa$ a great cook and made everythi.ng fron EJcratCh. ller mother' $ras very fussy in the lcitclren and clidn't like the ]tids heLping'bhat tnueh. 'bvro There's an old saJri.ng, -T,ucille n:entioned, that wornen ean't be in the $ame k:i 1;ciren her mother. Lucillc ditt l.e:arrr 'to cook :[rom watching her rnother and askin€l lots of questi-ons' more thcn by helplng her' @fee].sthathercooki.ngsty].eisbasica11ysimiIarto her mother.s styl;: - that; is sinply the right way to cook. -15- t4sgcts Lucille is facinatecl by her mother'c s;kill cf vroodstove cooking. In baking El, cahe, L.rci1le e xplained, her mother wouLd just stick her (read in the. oven ancl know j,f it was ready (tire right ternpera'Lure ) f cr the cake . The cake would always come out pr:rf ec tl.y. she rementrers hor* irer mother could nalce anything tarst clelicious. Specifical.ly she mentioned how leftover traked mackeral. woul.d be blended with celery and nayoriaise to make a lvoncierful late night snack. While growing up, tlri.r {'ariily, i.n keeping with the Catholic' faith, saj.d. grace trefcre tne evenir"rg nea.J-r &Dd 'Lhe Rosarie was said nightlti h:y t,i.,r.i i:mil;'. Tfiese traditions are not kept up by Lueille. Lu.ci-t.le n$w i:oo'',ff ii'r,.:itcl:*Canntli-an disthes such as creton, tcurlist.c; foastsr ard I)oL roir.r't.r,;. ljhe malies soupsrof ten enough for the week. Thc. i;;r'... of sDLIP a-Lterriates week nl, *uax, but favorites inclucie tomatoe, clij-r:ken, and pea $o'-lp. She makes her own salted her-'irs to r.:se in ir.er co Lucille main'bains not o nly a 1ot of the cooking traditions, but values inherent in that tradition. She loves. the tradition, she l.oves'bo eookr atncl r:he lrrves to spea[ French. About cooking -1"6- L4IZ.90zo she say,ss "It's iust in nre. It's rro ordeal. to cook. My husband would be inslrl-ted if I didn't cook. It's a relaxatiorl...i'm not a woman's libber; )'ou know. I just think a woman is the heart of 'tiie household. It's goocl to keep it that way. Things go betten r{s mV solr says, 'If your mo.ther's a gocrd cook, it mekes y6u f ee1 bet'ber"'. (Bernier:1980: InLcrrriew) . These beli.ef s co.incide with one wr:itetg thoughb on ttre IJreneh-0anadiarr ccolii.rg 'braditionr "A'b a you.ng &ge yoir wou-ld ].r:arn f ron your mo Lher thal/. . . Family cooh:ing is a 1:errt of '[he spiri.t o:t your blood,..*he inheritance of thc iiig4cnr.ritlr of yoirr nbther'll culi.nary ways, which she learneri .i rr turn f rom her rnotheri tirat the cooking of a Frenctr mother i s rr:iiarcled with respect; - o ki:r to reverence - by herr husbard and ehildrenl that family pride in her cu.linary skill t:.Levates her cooking to an art. fts perfection is to t,e Jounrl in a nar.:j.ve c.lassic simplicity of cuisine by whosr: irrdisputable standard of goodness 'everything. tastes a$ it should. "' (RoUotti ttg67 r 2JL) , CONCLUSION In all of the acccunts given, Irrench-CanaCian meals were most often clepic.ted ar laige, hearty, hot nreals, that woufd surely gi.re you clrertTy anC keep you warm on cold wlnter days. The big, iron kettl.es rvere still a conrnon feature to mest kitchens, yet used on a woodstove ra'therthan an open hearth. Most famj.l-ies had a tradition of gracq before meals' -seiying yetthls was not liept up by arly of the women's owh families. -12 - 1;1,P,9t2-;1- Sa'turday baked beans w(!i:J colqm,ln tn rnost pet)j)lrr' and fiSh ort Friday, in correla'Li-on i'.,.i ''-.ii the Ca1;lrol-ic cir':rcit r r/as also commcn to alt. /\ i;c:'tain seesolled varii:.tior:. irr ioods was Seen even by ttrose .1.'r-r,ing irrbcwn rath.er thaln Dn f arms. All women grelv up vritl-r g'a;'clens,and f"r'esh l/ofl,(lbirill.es were eaten in seasol, while p;"es;r:r'ling meth6d$ were u.sed tc keep the foods folr'rin'te:r r.li:re. i{o1ir1ay lor:ds were retnembered by a1lt expecially 'tlios,:; s,.:t'vr:ri orr l,lew '(eat''S l-lay, the maior l'renCh- Canad j.an holidqy, :-lflrl Chrisjtn:ls. Cer-bain tlisfier::l ']'re1e b1;ugh't up aga.ip and again by the women. l4os't corrl'n(.)i': i-;; gvo'l;orr, "bo:.i.rtierg(st:r'vr:rl at the {'east f o11owip,.1 mirlni.:iir.'t: r,ril,:lfi on (jhri s'tinirf: ffve ) ; salted herbs (tfre heart of French -rlrintrcli,:1;1 f ooi., j-ng) , hr:arty :jcupS, and homemade maple t.iyrup. (t lhrr:' cr)mrri('r-I ili:hes inclit,leci ba:;ic rneat and Jtotatoc tnea.ls, Dlrrt'i .1 , (:oyn, antj parlcakes o1 cl:epes ' Each of thL: wr)m{}il's at:r;ount lva-s ra^bher destinct' Their accounts are obvi-ot-rs1-y -i1 co;.'r'olation witir the type of up- bringing the$ haci, rvha.t social cLass they lcrrded to fall into' 5a;r' f,lir: if parents' nade ed r.lJS;3' . Both Theresa and Rosalie's paren'ts livecl fairl.y self -srrff icitrntly off the land. They were not vrealttrly bir arly means, t[ey fuad to rrake due with what resourccs v;{)lfL' avari.l,a.tile. Tt is interer;ting to note that these two women !../c'l'{) rnori) in boutc}r with rja.y to day means of aquiring foocl (as; rvel] el;j stl:ong s*:asonal diffn"*n"u$ rnore of their' lives :rnil their -f irrnilies revolved around subsistance activitles than -Lhe others. Their hnolvledfle of hohte remedies also reflects thei.r farni-Lies lvay of makirlg due with what was 1@o2e around, and being s:: t {':t,li i'iej en', . ilir$. llor-rgal:r'on'fi1c' other hand, ref lei:ts 't. /ti1.i...'.'7r ,;1.1r-n vlel1 l;rori oirtlook on tIe Freneh- Canadian culture. ;jhe vtar: a.warrj of melny t,radit,iorral dishes and 1ocal custotns {i,e. weeli.ly clisrlir::s, ho1-icla.y foods) yet she had litt1e f ir'::i. hand e>lperience wii.ir ei.-Lhe:: rnahirg these ci ishes or aquir.i ri5 t.!ru i rrgreclien'bs n€:c€ssg.r'.;,, l i-. nrake then. .ht.; I@sasreca].].e.l.i'ij.ll;,/li}ore'.failtly.''{oricls,i.hr.1idaydishes as traditional il''r, di-rir ''L r"c'.1:l].L 54s-'i c stap] l.: of tne diet as the others dicl . ,q.11 of 'Lhe v/Jilr';!-: lrc ! l-ci:1 varior.tg cleS:rt-,.: ; nf t\meri catii zation of 'their food habi'Ls. rr,:; i-lon Y:rrJer poi rits ljnt, "Anotiter receni I phenomr-:non r'cl.a.t.,ld l,o I rl l. coi.:i< !.n;] i s thc d,:i;.1 ir,e cf regional cooiting a.f, hono j r, J'rvr.tr' .r.l ('.Lr.itric ":\nter:ic;:rn'r r.:uisine. " (yorteri i335t', 1, ' ; r,ir:t.r.bt'f ui- if yclrl ci.ru.l J e,,'er say the Rac-irres or ir'[rs. 'foLr:lirr; wille evef rea11;; a palr-l of 'b]ie f olk tradition - at air.:/ rate, '[he decline of regional. cooking ogcure 1j-mi'bed to a very tratlj'tional wc'::-Ld view. _Mr:_!j_, Bernl].gr, being the one wornant who liils rea1..Ly rlain'Lai.ned 'bhe jlraitco-Arnerican tradition, is; in sorii;. sqn$e bound .to it, f rr -that is vlhat she knows, 'tc a certain ilerlr'ec, al.i she knows. ,:rJ-ong with a strong identif ication wii:h traciitional values, l./irs. Bernier has a genuine love for cookjng. It is: mlrch nore a,l:..obby, a relaxation, than a chore. llir.rr;.Lov,-, for cooking certair,ly is a vital element -\9_ 14U90?3 in thl rnain'tai neli() (: o j ,:l ',.I, l-tri"i i, ! otreLl C,lil;:ri:,: ; Oare lnti:,it en joy 'l j(t!'iil really ta.);i ni; ltt e i;i.i"rrr: ucr rJ.l t:lr i lr: s ,iusi t scr r and to prepare f ocri:r .f :,,:tr sr,_. r.l i.,:ir. -20* A43;st"A \!.I i.i.r,ij-l r1. _, l ..;,.113 I ,:'_' .,'r-.611y r ' ,'..1. r- 1., r, I l'r L;: ^-)-1.'- ':" '. , tn:rl') i _r 1' 1, i\.i l- .' rl ?':/ I :-t l-:..f 1_ :l '--f- 1439jes ( Ilegite ) Creton Eva ' {"j"oun.I pc::k 2-:t -1.hs hct vlater (:n:i.;r Lo ',r':il:":.$ Li:rtc\' '-" .''' .:l'-' 'i ) ;r.dl i;eJLt ar'd- 1'e1>p,:r-' c;iok--rintil. r"iir.+;,f.r' fiilrl ::l l, i.i'(l t',rlii' iclcl alls1li lc i Ltr:i ltt '',;::..r:. {uJ; I i \: :'. : - .'i'i-i r",;.;/ rr:.f r:i dg<-:::i.r.b e serve on tcast or c:te(ii'' :-:I't Cirrg.te--Rabbii Pie ( P'r:gg.y li:li: .Ln e ) ; Make errcugir f }:iky p;re tr';r do.;,.'ii !'c:r .i 1-::r'r"il;'i. tr;.ies. Refridgerate. ljraw d.: skjlt onc: hal'e. .[i'.]-ar;*.'.:r -L;ir':de 1.:;tl r.it]r vla.ter to c{f,ver, Add lots of slicecl cnions, strlt irrici 1)r)!];er, :,i$rler until meat is done { tat.t.s of f troltes) . !ir-.rirlr:1'ri lt.tita.1. (:::i r'{.i i'i-r []-.; .3.' discard bones. Sau'be 1 lb oli 6lrotln'.1 i>t:r'!:..--ilc.,ti' l; t-';'':,'r'ri). !:i, i.1 2 ll:s cf potatoes. iilash together wit:h cnrons .:.ilrl l-rro'ljr. l; ii:r-Lrl-r.' sll,oul.tl l:c rluite wet. Seagon to tasl+.e !{oIl out pastr';,' il:tc a re'Jtanglr) ri:r)r'i) 'l"ita.r'i {,rvic€ the'J-ength,o'f your roasting pan eind about.flive -irrciie:s rv-ider 1,ii:ili'the pan. Carefully .Lay dough in pan so tira'L t,here is 3.['].zr.p at e;i,:ii et:d, and the sides are lined with dottgh. Ir'iix r:abbit rnilat, po.r:k, and potat.o. irij-l thr: pastry-lined dish. r:iring end flaps to the cen"ter anrl cr'j.tnlr Logeth,;r'. Crinp side edges.' of cr.ust. Make slits tt, let out $teriln altd deeo::er'Le with fancy pastry cut-outs Bake: at 4Jc degr+es .for' 10 nrj.i'rutes*-1r00 degrees for t hour (unti]. crust is brown) ' ! F 14F9;f6 1-'c'-rrti ere ( L*"i]1* :r.t'.1.9,'), 5 pounds g:'orrr.'-1 lrr-;r'li ( l:-1'1 i"'r;' . ) 2 L/2 Pctund cr',;.c11s, :i:.;'1,P'i:ti --'lriYdel', S;rlt, peppe11 , ,.;lg.l. l;r^.1t :';{la;-.!Onj.fi.t:, ,.r:lr': .yr.:"'l i': all to taSte. oroir: r',i Cook together ivith b':nr pcr.,'!r ,rr.l'i.L "'r hoLtt's: at medir-tm heat. Rernove bone and al:oub 'fhree pounLlc of ni:tt-tl'r'' f"': tr:urtiere. ACd 2 teaspoons cinnarnorr'ancl ono 1e;rstrlootr cioveu t; l'<:n'iining urixture and contj.nrre cooking (f,,rr creton::). ir-eal':,,;ltj ic, l.ls'J 1:curtiere mixture to fill two double cr.i.lst pies. Fnkr' l-t5 :: i.r:',.11.'.:r; -i'i. lt'0O dcrgrees or Llntil CrUSt iS gOlden br:o'r;n. 11"-liliti-Orl:r.lJ-.'r' :;r:L't/e11 i:ol-'i, bUt' SOme people pi'ef er tourtiere hot. Beef souJ) ( Lucil ie irey'nier) : 2 pcuntl chuek- rol:s-L vri !,]l t.':nc 6 quarts r:i,1tl w'-.r.ter 1 o.uart home-r-'itrined'L:-:mator:s Salt and pepper' 'lo tastc 2 heaping tab1espoons seltr:C hr.rri;:,: (s,'le bclln') Coolc abo./e i-ngreriients ::.bout i'our- itoltt'g :ti: rnetii.urn heat. During *the last hour: adti 1 cup mixeci chopped i'ef,eLal.rl,'';s;. Durir:g the last 1.0 minutes arld Liz cup rice well vra.sherl atrd )/Lt rjup mecaroni. Sal. ted herbs ( Lucil]-e Bernier) r l'/lix together equal Par"bs of choPpc,.l fresii r;calli.ons and fresh parsley and a lot of sal'L' lieeP closei;r covered in refrigerator for up to'a l/ear. Use as ner:,lr:d. .a ;,. .t .)l lllirf "irl , l.r-, i rr r',i ,,rr lfi,e .i'L.il.:;r .ity,"rr.,,,.i ,..t,:. 1.,e"''.i-s 1.or-r iii s t,;r.. r ..;i.i tlt-.jt'i,-rs. ;', C (r - /,neli (:a.n I nnrr,:.',i .ri l: .:, I _. ,^.i_,t-j-.-. li':v,r york , Ig?O I r ..'r nq r, ., Clii c.;,.;.;o , !g3g . . iil ir"h l,inet ., I r'- ., i: i {'. l'j e 'l Jork, 19ZL, i'lol;l it i - i'i.1':r- \i'a. .. lJe r.lr I r) I i.j,a I'lew r"1 rl. n, 4._: i, ,.,:i ! -:{o I tt ite c' ,'\. , L"rrc '' .l i ] l-c rtr. i'1' i..:J. 'i'it e t'.: !; a lJcr-r' .'i I j i , .) a-1. -, lr i.l:t;r:it .1 t', 1.S. .ka,,.ri.rrnd .i,C il, llje. ,' .. :;,-i, ,..:'. , ;.:l I :, ,' ,. :. ., , , -: .. i. i, '' 't:-. '- : :!. ':;. . ti" i : 11.,, ':':.