Volume 33 Colo in flood— Issue 3 From the T3 lookout Winter 2008 Eagle Rock Royal National Park Photo: Peter Vaughan, NPA

Contributions of interesting, especially typical and spectacular bushwalking photos are sought. you don’t want the same photographers all the time, do you?

Near Sunset Cave and Photo: Brett Davis, Mount Donjon, Shoalhaven Bushwalkers Budawangs Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker From the editor’s desk. . . The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW The Future of Gear Shops Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 et me start with some background. Some years ago I made some ultralight ISSN 0313 2684 sleeping bags for my wife and I, with 300 g of 800 loft down in each. They Lwere lighter and warmer than any Australian models then available, and were meant for summer use only. But we have actually used them as low as -7 C and in the snow - by accident, I promise! We thought it might be a good idea to get something with a little more down in it, but with the better ultralight shells Editor: Roger Caffin and 800 loft down found mainly in overseas gear. [email protected] Graphic Design & Assembly: First I looked at what I could buy from a top US sleeping bag manufacturer, Barry Hanlon and I found three bags at AU$495, AU$640 and AU$735. They looked more than suitable. Then I checked with a large Kent St shop to see if they sold them here. Confederation Officers: Yes, and they were priced at AU$1,000, AU$1,370 and AU$1,450. I boggled. President: Wilf Hilder This represents a markup of about 1.97, 2.14 and 2.02 over the US RETAIL price. Administration Officer: It would be even more over the US wholesale price. Now I know there are freight [email protected] cost and so on, but this sort of markup is utterly ridiculous! I can import one of these bags for about $25 in postage. Whether I have to pay GST is a moot point, Website: www.bushwalking.org.au depending on fine details, but at the worst that is only 10%. I am sure the local gear shops have to make a living, but will any experienced bushwalker stand for this sort of gouging? I very much doubt it. Increasing The Confederation of Bushwalking numbers of walkers are going straight to the web these days, and it is no wonder. Clubs NSW Inc represents Does that mean the shops will end up selling only street clothing to the hordes approximately 66 Clubs with a total and cheap gear to novices? Very possibly. membership of about 8,700 bushwalkers. Can we get this message across to the local shops? I am not hopeful. It seems to me that parts of the retail market are going to undergo a serious change as Formed in 1932, the Confederation experienced shoppers bypass the shops for the web. Where do you shop for gear provides a united voice on behalf of all these days? bushwalkers on conservation, access and other issues. Articles for Publication Clubs and members are encouraged to submit relevant articles, with a very strong People interested in joining a bush- preference for those with good pictures. Both the author and the author’s club walking club may write to the will feature in the Byline - this is a good way to advertise YOUR club. We will also Confederation Administration accept articles from outside bodies where the articles seem relevant to members. [email protected] Articles may be edited for length and content to help fit into our page limit. for a list of Clubs, but a far more Pictures should be sent at maximum available resolution: at least 300 dpi, useful on-line list is available at the preferably in their original unedited form. JPG, PDF or TIFF formats are Confederation website preferred. The text should be sent as a plain text file (*.txt), NOT as a Word file www.bushwalking.org.au, (*.doc). I repeat, please send the pictures separate from the text file; do NOT broken up into areas. There’s lots of send them embedded in a Word doc file. Pictures taken from a Word doc file are other good stuff there too, including simply not good enough. And, of course, the Editor is always interested in the bushwalking FAQ. receiving bushwalking books and maps for review. All enquiries should be sent to [email protected]. Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of the Confederation or any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own. Roger Caffin

Index Su b scri b e to T h e B u sh wal k er Don’t you wish you were here? 2 Keep u p w i t h al l t h e n ew s an d devel o pm en t s From the Editor’s Desk 3 h appen i n g i n t h e NSW bu sh w al k i n g scen e fo r o n l y $10 per y ear. Th i s i s t o co ver po st i n g an d Fractured Fairytale Canyon 4 h an dl i n g: t h e m agaz i n e i t sel f i s free. South Coast Track — Tasmania 6 Sen d y o u r n am e an d address an d ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder t o t h e Con fed erati on of B u sh - Podgers Glen 10 wal k i n g Cl u b s NSW In c, bu t si n ce t h e po st al address i s ch an gi n g y o u w i l l h ave t o em ai l to Currockbilly 11 adm i n @bu sh w al k i n g. o rg. au o r ri n g t h em at 02 9290 2060 t o fi n d o u t t h e n ew address. M ak e Book Reviews 13 t h e ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder pay abl e t o t h e Larapinta Trail 13 Con fed erati on of B u sh wal k i n g Cl u b s NSW In c as w el l : pl ease do n o t abbrevi at e t h e South West Tasmania 13 n am e! Passes of Narrow Neck 14 Pl ease i n di cat e w h i ch i ssu e y o u w an t y o u r su b- scri pt i o n t o st art w i t h . W e do n ’ t w an t t o du pl i - ANZAC Day, Splendour Rock 14 cat e co pi es y o u al ready h ave.

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 3 Fractured Fairytale Canyon

Mick Dulihanty Sutherland BWC

n January of this year I led a canyon walk/exploration up in the Glen IDavis/Glen Alice area for Sutherland BWC. While exiting Bridge Canyon and seeking a pass out, I explored a side gully and found a canyon (later to be named Fractured Fairytale) entering the main Gully. It was narrow and damp with a fall blocking our way. Further down, I spotted a small ledge cutting its way into the spur to the north. We found this to be an exit that required 1 person to boost the other, to aid the climb up to place a handline of 3 metres around a tree. The next day, after exploring Grassy Canyon, we went to find the top of the new canyon. On arrival there was not much in the way of anchors to be seen and I felt it better to return with more Up and away hardware and sling. Some months later I returned with some friends from SBW, steps and heard a strange crumbling lowered 2 paramedics. Unfortunately they CMW and Katoomba. sound. Everything went a blur for 3 lowered then 10 metres away further This western Numietta Creek area has seconds, and then I hit the ground and down the canyon. Colin had to abseil mostly dry canyons and this seemed the screamed in agony. down the next fall to them (Paramedic’s best of all canyons. Sporty, more Fortunately I landed in 16 inches of Fall) and help one up as he didn’t know interesting and slightly more dangerous. humus and the mud softening my impact! how to prussik and to get the stretcher up Its picturesque beauty is only rivaled by John B had thought I had let go of the to us. The other paramedic, Hugh, was Midwinter. We descend parallel to the rope and tried to stop my fast descent, but able to prussik up the Falls. He first creek in the green lush glade until we unknown to him the anchor had broken. consulted with (Dr) James and then struck the creek, and then headed down James was still 8 m above and wondering examined me. They gave me 10 until the walls formed. Spotting a small what had happened and how he was milligrams Morphine to try to ease the Eucalypt on the east side a few metres going to descend safely! pain. Meanwhile the helicopter returned past the first drop, we used it to abseiled Both Johns and Colin came to base. Not much happened after that till 20 metres down and over the two-part immediately to me and removed my pack just after first light. falls - the 2nd fall has no anchor. We and set about organizing me somewhere turned a right angle corner and to lie. A few metres to the north and a here was much discussion about the commenced pushing our way through the metre above the creek bed there was an Tair lift and the rescuers insisted that native brambles. Even with gaiters and overhang where they could lay me out to Colin and James be lifted out and taken to gloves I wished I had a pair of secateurs. give me shelter in comfort. With care and the valley first. James tried to get the We found a slippery log concealed in the order John B supported my left side and rescuers to drop them at Grassy brambles, sticking out over a 2 m descent. John L the right. Colin raised me by my Mountain, so the overnight equipment With care and a knife John and I removed harness and, as carefully as possible, they could be retrieved without having to walk the brambles from the log so we could all moved me slowly to a bed of packs, back. However, unknown to us John and scramble down. This drop is now known dry bags and foam to insulate me. John John had returned there and carried all as John Bradhams Bramble scramble. and John covered me with clothing and a the equipment back to the farm. There Shortly we arrived at a large dead tree space blanket. While this was happening they had contacted emergency services and a nice-sized live tree. Colin climbed Colin set off to find a way to enable James and given them detailed information as to up and attached a sling around the live to descend to our level in the canyon. where I was located. tree, then we abseiled the Colin Skinner Colin found a ledge above and with some After first light I was placed in a falls (12 metres). I was the last to belaying, managed to get James down to special sleeping bag with handles and descend, before we set up the next drop. me safely. placed on the stretcher. I was strapped in oon we entered a chamber-like Colin set off to find a way out, and and given a neck brace and glasses, plus Sfeature. This is the most picturesque found a pass out that is now named after my helmet was placed on. When the section of the canyon, with a 1 metre him. Poor John B’s space blanket was that helicopter arrived shortly after, they first scramble to the right immediately old it fell apart as he tried to open it out picked up Colin and James and flew off followed by a 2 metre down-climb. There to protect me, so remember to replace with them, but they weren’t able to drop is a rock jammed into the crack which them every few years. I knew where the them at the Station. Instead they landed allowed a hand over hand climb down a exit back to Grassy Mountain was, and them 20 km the other side of Tayra slippery rock into a narrow slot to be done told them about it. John and John headed Station, where they were picked up by the with sufficient safety. Straight away we back to Tayra Station to organise an air police and taken to back to Tayra Station. were at Dulihanty Fall. Both Johns and lift to Hospital. The the VRA turned up, having been Colin had safely abseiled to the canyon We had settled in for the night, and I told the farmer had a trail bike accident. floor when I arrived. I attached myself to was surprised to hear the distant roar of Just how the cops came to that conclusion the rope while James fiddled around, and rotor blades a little after midnight. With I’ll never know! Apparently the VRA then I stepped off the edge. I took two some searching they spotted us and senior officer of the rescue party was very

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 interested in all the canyons marked on my map: even he learnt something that morning. Once the helicopter returned and Hugh had been strapped to the stretcher, we were winched into the helicopter with precision and little drama. Next came the 2nd paramedic and we headed straight to Nepean Hospital. The journey was that smooth, I didn’t realise we were moving till I noticed a cloud going by. We were fortunate that the weather held that morning as strong winds hit the area that afternoon. ll that drama and fuss just to rescue me, and Ayou never think it will happen to you. Even though I always take the safest option, you can never know. One day something can happen to you or someone you know, whether you are experienced or not. When your number is up that’s all there is to it and you will be taken, no matter what you are doing. But safety is a necessity we all should strive for. I will be changing the way I abseil slightly, but this hasn't deterred me from canyoning. I will return to finish exploring and completing the rest of that canyon. There are too many unexplored canyons out there! You may think I am a little strange But Abseiling the day before Fractured Fairytale Canyon is one of my favourites and I will always have strong memories of the think the anchor, a rock jambed in to a pile of boulders, just events and I look to it as a lesson. slowly degraded and gave away: it was just my bad luck. I’d like to thank all involved in my rescue: my party members, I landed leg first slightly, and that’s how the femur was driven the lovely people at Tayra Station, the VRA (even though they up into the hip socket, causing the three fractures in my right were misled), the emergency staff at Nepean and the staff at hip. Fortunately I landed on soft mud, or things could have been Liverpool hospital, hip specialist Dr Richard Walker, the St Johns worse. I was on the operating table for 3 hours, and it was Ambulance Organisation and especially the professional crew of worse than the specialist had initially thought. I now have some the Air Ambulance! Titanium plates and screws holding my hip together. I’m on pain killers at present as I have pain all through my right leg, but it In a subsequent email. Mike added: comes and goes. I don’t recommend breaking your hip! I’m just We are not sure exactly what happened, as it’s strange that 3 glad I didn’t damage my femur or anything else. However, I was others had previously abseiled off that anchor. I do remember a walking with a frame 2 days after the operation and doing strange noise as everything went blurry for about 3 seconds. I squats. t

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 5 South Coast Track — Tasmania

Leannne Baird Sutherland Bushwalking Club Rounding a point

n 1980 on my first trip to Tasmania I course, the days are shorter. We expected coastline and mountains and we glanced walked in the South West National long days walking and wet feet. I planned down and sometimes up trying to pick out IPark from Scotts Peak Dam to for eight days, which included 1 ½ our intended route. The ground had Melaleuca where I discovered there was contingency days – expecting to enjoy the glistening lines, which I assumed would much more to explore, and I vowed to beaches east of the Ironbound Range. be water, and the Ironbound Range return one day. I wanted to finish the Christine, Ian and John were driving to looked intimidating as it rose straight up South West Track along the South Coast, Tasmania. Judy, Col and I flew out of from the coast and was higher than our which in 1982 was declared a part of the at 9:00 am. We had good views plane. I was glad to see Cox Bight about Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area. en route of southern forty minutes into the flight and we Twenty-eight years later, after serious and the dunes at Cape Howe, and landed landed soon after at Melaleuca. But the consideration and six months poring over in Hobart at 10:45 am where Par Avion flight was five minutes too long for my a map and my friend’s book on South were to meet us and transport us to the stomach and the paper bag came in West Tasmania (John Chapman), six of us neighbouring Cambridge Airport. There handy. set off to walk the South Coast Track. we met up with the others at the Par As the plane came to a halt near the Easter dictated our schedule, and we Avion Terminal. We checked the weather airstrip shed, it poured with rain and we choose to walk the week after the holiday forecast, which said it would be fine sat there a bit overawed, before making a as April usually has the most stable tomorrow, then winds and clouds but fine dash for the shed which was very much weather - or so we thought. But, off again by the weekend. The gear was like a bus shelter. We filled our metho weighed, we went to bottles and donned our Gortex jackets the aircraft and and pants. We met two women, cold, stowed everything tired and carrying heavy, sodden boots, into the eight seater who could not wait to fly out. Oh, dear! plane. The pilot gave We watched the plane leave. EXPERIENCE KOKODA us safety instructions Melaleuca used to be a tin mine on Experience the beauty, culture, history and before he started the Bathurst Harbour, which is now a engines. We put Conservation Area surrounded by challenge of the Kokoda Track with locals. headphones on and National Park. The airstrip provides for then we were off. easy access. There are a couple of huts James Jons and his team can provide guiding, Col was the co-pilot. there, including one for hikers which we For the previous entered to have lunch. We saw no activity camping sites\huts and assistance from porters. five days the weather and we started walking at around had been wet and 2:00pm. We found the Track Head at the They can also organise Pt Moresby stays, etc wild and no small southern end of the white gravel airstrip. planes had been able e crossed Moth Creek on the only to take off, so we felt Wbridge we were to see for over a rather lucky. We week and then followed duckboards were warned that south. They required some concentration the flight might be as you had to balance on the narrow rough and we might planks of wood. On either side the water not be able to go looked deep. We soon warmed up. The directly to Melaleuca skies cleared as we followed the valley (80 km or so away), down to the turn-off where one branch of over the mountains the track leads to the South West Cape. as the visibility was The track was well formed, but we had a poor and we would couple of tricky creeks to leap across. The be following the views were good and we ended up at the coast. It was rough, picturesque mouth of Falls Creek at New and there were quite Harbour. It looked different to the map a few seat-grabbing, and the guide notes but there was a Have the flexibility to enjoy side trips which others stomach-turning, camping site and a sign-in book. It was sudden drops and a 5:00 pm. We chose a site sheltered by low miss or rush through. few squalls. We flew dunes, besides a glassy little lagoon, south above the blue surrounded by emerald green grass. I was Fully organised Kokoda packages also available. Derwent River and impressed at having ended Day 1 with the D’Entrecasteaux dry socks. Channel towards the Next day was bright and we planned a Contact: Charles Jons [email protected] Southern Ocean. We day trip towards South West Cape. I was had great views of not keen to wade through the creek and (Sutherland Bushwalkers used James as their guide in 2007) fish farms, islands, insisted we backtrack and look for the

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 beach of the Bight we some hail and lots of sticks came down. walked east towards The roar of the wind was fascinating. It Point Eric where our would come in cycles. We could hear it lunch was cut short by coming and going and it was loud. Ian a shower. There is a wondered whether he had camped beside nice camp site there but a runway as the noise was like a jumbo it was not very landing and taking off all night. But the sheltered, as we were wind was not blowing the tent around told later. A strong and we felt cosy as we listened and wind was blowing, the waited. Some water trickled in and I was sand on the beach hoping there would be no large branches developed pretty overhead. In the morning Chris was up patterns and the water first beckoning us to come out and have a in the waves looked look at the creek. One look at the creek pinkish. made us think that we would not leave We had to wait, the campsite today. It was very Crossing Louisa Creek wade, jump and run impressive. The creek had risen to the around a rocky bluff crest of the banks and was flowing swiftly and several creeks and quietly. We could not see the creek track we missed on the previous day that broke the monotony of beach walking. bed through the clear, orange brown offered a shaky log crossing of the creek. The last one, Buoy Creek on the eastern tannin-stained water. The flimsy guide We wasted a couple of hours, saw many end, was aptly named, as many buoys and rope was skimming the surface. deep sections of Falls Creek and found no flotsam and jetsam marked our track It rained on and off all morning. We track. Then I discovered that my map had inland and a climb of 260 metres over could not venture far. There were puddles a different track marked than Ian’s New Red Point Hill. It was cold up there and all around us. Judy’s Gortex gear was a Edition map! We headed back to camp our socks were getting wet. and set off again after morning tea. We The track was tricky as what waded through the creek at low tide. looked firm wasn’t and what Some tried the water displacement looked soft wasn’t and there method; others de-shoed. New Harbour were quite a few deep, muddy is attractive with small rocky outcrops sections to negotiate and the guarding its entrance. wind was cold atop the hills. t the other end of the beach we The views were good but we Aheaded up through lush, green forest were getting tired and I to the exposed ridge, 200 metres above decided that we’d stop at the the beach, with great views and a good next inviting spot. We came to track that eventually took us down a creek that had steps at both through white sand dunes to the pristine ends and a rope, which was Hidden Bay. We had lunch here before pretty impressive. Some were venturing up the next headland for a still taking boots off to cross glimpse of Ketchem Bay before then but my feet were wet, so I turning back. Here I almost stepped on a could not see the point. That dark snake - a Copperhead, I decided after was Faraway Creek according studying specimens at the Hobart to the signpost and a further 10 Museum. Back at camp John and Judy minutes of muddy track east both reported seeing a Tasmanian Devil, was Louisa Creek. An excellent although the photo subsequently showed sheltered campsite attracted us it to be a quoll. Rain drove us to bed early and I could not see the log Track through button grass plains that night. crossing. There was a rope Next day, Wednesday, was to be a long with a knot in the middle, which didn’t sodden mess in the dirt as she had left day. 24 kilometres had to be covered if we impress the fellows much. We pitched our them out during the night. I noticed we were to make it to Louisa River. It was tents where the ground was level. Getting were nestled amongst high, thick scrub light by 7:00 am, so we headed off at 8:00 water out of the creek wasn’t real easy as and any trees were spindly. We spent a lot am. We backtracked around the New the banks were steep. We cooked just of time in our tents; some read, some Harbour Range to rejoin the main track before dark. And I heard a little voice slept and some talked. We were able to and to head south again. It skirted on the saying: “Always camp on the far side of a study the cautious sneaky habits of a side of the hill and a dry quartzite base, stream just in case.” bandicoot as it discovered the crumbs at with good views beyond Cox Bight No one slept well that night. It rained the tent door. And we were able to study towards the Ironbound Range. On the most of the night, sometimes heavily; an amended itinerary. The book says to be

Walking along Cox Bight

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 7 patient and sensible as the creeks usually intimidating to her and she had started and leaf litter, it blended well into the subside in a few hours. Well, Louisa Creek the walk with a bad cold. Chris, Ian and I bush. It was not an eyesore. rose further, no doubt fed by those clouds decided to go on regardless. John offered The next day was Saturday, and we atop the mountains, to our north. The to pick us up on Tuesday. He would wait were all psyched up for a big day, one water in the creek did not start receding 24 hours for us. That was our mood, 1000 m and 4 hours ascent, a treacherous until mid afternoon and then only very reservedly optimistic. We had a lot more descent and 13 km to Little Deadmans slowly - we were not going anywhere streams to ford! The spotted quolls came Bay. We headed east, feet wet, before today. I had never been tent-bound before out just on dark and persistently searched starting uphill on that track I had seen and it was quite relaxing physically but for our food, which kept us entertained from the distance on previous days. A this one day delay would actually put us until bedtime. We slept well. steep and stony but easy to follow, track. two days behind. That was ½ day longer The creek was down in the morning The breeze was bracing. There were than I had calculated. and we were off. Judy decided to stay fantastic views when you stopped and hen not long before dusk two with us. The water was about one metre turned back. The Louisa Plains with Tbedraggled walkers stumbled into below the knotted rope and mid to high streams snaking through it, the Red Point camp. We had run into John and Anika at thigh deep. We farewelled Col and John Hills and in the distance, New Harbour Melaleuca and New Harbour where they and went our separate ways. There would Range. Also picturesque Louisa Bay and did not have much to say. But now they have been nowhere to camp on the far the island that we had not had the had a tale to tell. They had spent the side. We had a steep climb up, about 40 inclination to explore closer. To the south previous night at beautiful Point Eric. A m into the Spica Hills. There were pretty was Wilt Island, Flat Witch Island and the tree had fallen beside their tent at 4:00 pink stones amongst the white quartz on sheer Maatsuyker Island and a few others. am so they had spent rest of the night the track. You look a lot at your feet. Poor Judy, Chris and Ian were frozen by shivering on the beach. They had bravely The Ironbound Range was looming the time slow-coach-me reached the top. battled across Faraway Creek, which was now and we could see a track going up a We were fortunate to have clear views chest deep. No way would I have relished ridge. We were soon down in the wet and could see South West Cape, 40 km or doing that. But he was young and big and button grass plains. There was good so away. strong, ex-Army and capable. They also duckboard and I was grateful for it even if We still had to climb actually, for a bit, had a satellite phone they offered us to the water came up to the top of my boots. until we reached the crest where we lost cancel our bus pick-up at Cockle Creek on I mentioned this to Ian. He looked at me our western views but gained glimpses to Monday. as if I was mad. He was disgusted. He the east. We could not see the south coast In the meantime, Col realised that he could not understand why they bothered as the land dropped off so steeply and the could not afford the extra day delay and to build a duckboard below the water horizon was misty. To our left (north), decided to walk back to Melaleuca. John level! Soon we reached Louisa River, were ridge after ridge of mountain ranges, decided to accompany him. Judy was which was wide and fast-flowing, but the distant ones shrouded in clouds, and undecided. The creek looked very there was a strong-looking rope and John we could not see Federation Peak. The and Anika, already on vegetation was stunted alpine-like, in the other side, autumn tones. There was a good wooden encouraged us. The footpath, at times high over creeks, which water was top of thigh would be tricky in bad weather. There deep and the crossing was a strong, bitterly cold wind blowing. invigorating. We found a It nearly blew Judy off her feet a few lovely campsite amongst times. There were good views to the east. the magnificent forest, fter 3 km we started descending very green, lots of ferns Athrough forest, looking for a sheltered and thick-trunked tall spot to have lunch. We had to settle for trees festooned with the track and were lucky to find a dryish mosses and lichen. We wet spot to sit on. Initially the forest was had lunch while we dried magic, lots of lichen and pretty pink and out in the sun and had a red little flowers, but we really could not relaxing afternoon take our eyes off our feet. It was steep. around camp. We came We were looking for foot holds while across the first official trying to avoid puddles and roots to trip toilet: its novelty over. It was tiring and I had two deserves mention. impressive falls as foot holds gave way Shielded by vegetation and I lost my balance. We were keen to only, there was a small avoid injury as help would have been very wooden platform with a difficult. We heard the second plane for keyhole lid over a deep the day; we could not see it and hole, with ground cover wondered if Col and John would be on

Fording a stream

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 views anyway. of us. Finally we descended to South Surprise Bay was our Cape Rivulet. What a welcome sight. goal and the sooner There was another knee-deep ford to we would arrive, the reach the obscure campsite. It had been a better. It was well- long day. Ian was having a scrub in the named, a pretty little lagoon when four kayakers appeared beach. We had to seemingly out of nowhere. They had cross a knee deep started from Macquarie Harbour 18 days ford at its eastern ago! They had left Maatsuyker Island that end and then do morning and were heading for Hobart. some rock hopping They had had enough too but thought before we reached paddling was easier than walking. They the track. This was certainly were moving a lot faster. actually a climb up a Tuesday was another brilliant day and limestone rock face, we were buoyed by the end being in facilitated by a fixed sight. After breakfast we heard desperate rope, to the Surprise pleas from Judy, somewhere in the Bay View campsites. bushes. In her rush to the toilet she had It was the nicest not recognised it, had ran right over it campsite, in amongst and now was lost in the bush. She was trees with a good soon located and we went off to discover view of the sun that the high tide meant that we had to setting on the go up over Coal Bluff, which gave us Track approaching Cox Bight Ironbound Range. more good views, then down to Lion Monday promised Rock. board. The track went on and on and on. to be brilliant, and we expected to do 11 We went along the beach, ascending the We were hopeful as we glimpsed Lousy km in 9 hours. We had good views as we headland at the end and then following Bay but onwards we had to go. At long scaled Shoemaker Point, at a height of Blowhole Valley for 7 km, pleasant last we reached Deadmans Bay about an 160 m. From there it was all the way enough, to Cockle Creek, which was a hour before dark and we flopped into bed down again to the Bay and along Granite most welcome sight. We signed out and as soon as we could. Beach. At its eastern end we had to climb looked around for John and his truck. He Sunday dawned bright and I expected up 10 m beside a waterfall before had been seen but we had time for lunch an easier day, 18 km in 6 to 8 hours. We continuing up a steep and muddy path and a look around before he found us. We started off on rocky Turua Beach, up onto into a forest that opened out to Flat Rock demolished his tomatoes, ham and a wet plain and down again to a beach. Plain. From there we had fantastic views bananas and bread and then started from We had to run between waves around west again toward all the previously the most southern road in north another small rocky headland. Then there mentioned landmarks: the bays, to Hobart, a shower, a drink, knife and t was more track until we reached Prion mountains and islands. A bit of down and fork food and a bed. Beach. From there it was an hour to the up to the 429 m high New River Lagoon boat crossing. There South Cape Range. were great reflective views of Precipitous Bluff. We met John who helped us row he mud! How come across and, as he was camping there, he Tthere is so much of it offered to row the boat back for us. We way up here? It went on had lunch and then left John and Anika and on and on and we not expecting to see them again. Next we went to great lengths to walked through lightly ti-treed sand avoid the deeper holes, dunes, which ended with a steep descent twisting around low to Milford Creek which wasn’t a deep branches and making wade - only thigh deep. precarious leaps to We were soon back up to open Rocky exposed timber. We Plains, in light rainforest and supposedly became very tired of this: easy sections. But there were lots of trees it was depressing and down, hiding the track and making our oppressive. The black progress slow and tedious. We blamed the mud stinks and makes a storm, which had blown a few nights loud squelching noise as earlier. We battled on and could not be you sink into it, never tempted by easy side trips. We had some knowing how deep you would go. The surrounding jungle was green and brown and lovely to look at. But the mud! It looked like the wilds of the Amazon to me. There was no escape; even finding a lunch stop proved difficult. We were so tired that any place would do. Eventually the descent started. The 250 m seemed never ending. We had to cross Blowhole Creek and ascend 100 m again. This was getting too much. Still, there were some nice views of South Cape Bay in front View west from South Cape Range

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 9 placed in service on the 1st July 1931. Stanley was sent to Lithgow as this became the headquarters of the construction team. Podgers Glen In a phone interview with Stanley’s daughter Eunice6 she recalled the family's time in Lithgow during the construction of the transmission line and the subsequent Brian Fox walking track called Bruces Walk. Eunice recalls that her father rented a cottage for 2 pound and 10 shillings a week while odgers Glen is a small valley located earning 6 pound 10 shillings a week wages. NE of Bodington Hill, Wentworth Most employees were under canvas and Falls. This glen is one of the changed location as construction of the P transmission line progressed. Owing to his tributaries which feed into . Walking access is via the southern position Stanley drove a vehicle, a Ford end of Booth Street, Bullaburra. It was Beauty Tourer with the NSW Government described many years ago in The New Railway insignia on the side door. One of Walk1 as “a secluded narrow glen walled in the saddest days in Stanley’s working life by precipitous mountain sides clad with a was the day that one of his fellow workmen luxuriant growth of a native flora”. was killed in a tractor accident while Edward Podger married Caroline Castles working in one of the valleys. As all of the in Sydney in 18962. Edward owned a men’s pay was handed out in cash Stanley produce store in Tempe, an inner suburb of was given a revolver by the Lithgow Police Sydney. But during the course of Edward’s as a means of deterrent to any robbery, but working life he became an alcoholic and as his daughter commented that he couldn’t a result lost his produce store. Caroline and hit a tin can set just a few paces away from Edward had three children. Henry Edward, him. born 1889 and the eldest, established a very 3 s well as constructing a transmission successful business – “RAYNOR’S” , Aline, a walking track was also manufacturing badges in Punchbowl, constructed to roughly follow the line from greatly assisted by contracts obtained Lawson to Mount Victoria. This was called during the Second World War. Stanley ‘Bruces Walk’, so named after the George Podger was born on the 22nd Stanley Podger departmental surveyor Arthur Albert August 1892 and his mother Caroline died Bruce7. Many of the geographical features not long after the birth of their third child along this track were named after Blue Lilian, so that the children were raised by a Stanley rose up through the ranks from Mountains Shire Councillors, residents of series of housekeepers. Assistant Electrical Engineer Class 3 to the shire, administrative staff and officers of Stanley’s education began at Tempe Assistant Electrical Engineer Class 1, but the railway department, including Stanley Public School. After leaving school he died one day after his 51st birthday on the 5 Podger. Bruces Walk was officially opened undertook an electrical apprenticeship with 23rd August 1943 of a massive heart attack Saturday, 21st November 19318. the NSW Railways at Eveleigh workshops in while getting into an elevator at work. His Eunice vividly recalls in 1931 walking Redfern. His railway employment record wife, Doddy, died at in 1963. the track (Bruces Walk) most unwillingly, card indicates that his probation In the early 1930s Australia was still in a 4 miles up and down with her equally commenced on the 20th September 1910 . depression, times were tough and many unwilling younger brothers, dressed in good Most of Stanley’s working life was based at men faced the unemployment lines. In an shorts and jumpers, and her father Stanley Newcastle. He married Theodosia (known effort to lower unemployment the NSW in his three piece suit dragging them on. as Doddy) Hall on the 12th September Railways undertook the construction of a Eunice mentioned her laced up black shoes, 1914, at her parents’ home “Letona” in 66kV transmission line from the and how her red woolen jumper shrank Addison Road Stanmore. They in turn had Commissioners’ power station at after they were caught in a storm. three children Eunice, William (Bill) and Wallerawang near Lithgow to their During the war years in Newcastle Edward (Ted). substation at Lawson. The line was officially Stanley was responsible for keeping the electricity grid functioning, and it was very likely the stress of this job led to his untimely death. His only real outlet was playing bowls with the NSW Railway team and poker on Sunday nights. A number of times the family invited Walter Myers (Chief Electrical Engineer of NSW Railways) home for tea, Eunice describing him as, “a charming little Jew”. I was surprised to learn from Eunice, the only living child of Stanley and Theodosia, that until recently she had no idea that a geographical feature, Podgers Glen, was named after her father. I also informed her that on the at Wentworth Falls there is also a Podgers Trig Station. t References 1 The New Walk across the Blue Mountains, issued under the authority of the New South Wales Railway Commissioners. 2 NSW Register of Birth, Death and Marriages. Rego. No. 6035/1896 3 Email correspondence from Pam Organ, granddaughter of Stanley Podger 4 Railways NSW (SRA) employment record card for Stanley George Podger 5 Deceased Estate files. NSW A 58235. 20/3221 6 Phone interviews Eunice Flynn (daughter to Stanley Podger) 30th March 2008 and 3rd April 2008. 7 NSW Government Gazette No. 154, pp. 4216-4220. List of persons employed in the NSW Railways, Electrical Branch on 31st December 1929. Podgers Glen, illustration from ‘The New Walk’ guide book 8 Sydney Morning Herald 23rd November 1931, p. 6; col. 5.

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 Budawangs: the beauty and the beast — Wog Wog to Currockbilly Lee Cordner

re you thinking about hiking from for the first day. Wog Wog to Currockbilly However, the 1st AMountain and return in 2 days? Edition Then take a sedative, have a good lie recommended a down and think again. If you still believe start from Wog it’s a good idea, either seek medical Wog property, advice or read this article. On the 2008 which the 2nd Anzac Day long weekend, six experienced Edition advised members of the Southcoast and was no longer Shoalhaven Bushwalking Clubs joined accessible. This The ridge beckons forces to explore one of the great ridges in meant that the southern NSW. revised walk was now 4-5 kilometres progress and options for the rest of the The initially proposed plan was to longer, but the recommended walking day. It was clear that our initial objective follow the track notes titled “Wog Wog – times remained the same! of making camp at Wirritin Basin that Wirritin Ridge – Currockbilly” in Pigeon We made very good progress east night was not achievable. After much House and Beyond: A Guide to the along Corang Plateau until we were discussion we decided to carry sufficient and Environs, 2nd fortunate to find the start of a faint water from the to enable Edition, Revised 1987, pages 74-77. The footpad about 1 kilometre before Korra progress southward along the dry Wirritin notes suggested “2 (long) days” with “12 Hill and heading south toward Snedden Ridge, and to camp before dark. hours of walking” on the first day and a Pass. We found, lost, then found again the The Wirritin Ridge ascent provided an “water bottle is essential” (!). The pad, which was overgrown and passing excellent cardiovascular workout as we recommended route went south from the through at times impenetrable heath climbed 550 m up often loose, rocky Wog Wog entrance to the Budawang area, country. Our rate of progress reduced ground. The lack of track fitness of some across the Yadboro River then via Wirritin considerably and we took turns in leading members of the party was soon revealed. Ridge to Currockbilly Mountain and the fight. Our labours were rewarded with At around 5 pm, after almost 11 hours of return to Wog Wog via the Budawang the first of many spectacular vistas across walking, we made camp in a saddle to the Range. This route appeared to be very the Budawangs features to the east, north of Wirritin Mountain, weary and ambitious for 2 days, being approximately including Corang 46 kilometres return with considerable Peak, Admiration ascents and descents, and mostly off-track Point, Mount or following rarely used footpads through Owen, and Pigeon some tough country. House Mountain in Following a suggestion by Brett we the distance. The decided to shorten the hike considerably pad became clearer by planning to exit from Currockbilly and the going Mountain to the west via Valeston easier as we Property. Permission was gained to walk approached and through the property and park a vehicle then negotiated guided small group there. This meant the overall length of the some short hike was reduced to approximately 28 “interesting” active holidays kilometres, including approximately 1885 scrambles down metres of ascent and 1830 metres of Snedden Pass and descent (the end point was 55 metres skirted to the east higher than the start point). We still of Cockpit Swamp anticipated a very challenging 2 day hike. and Wog Wog We car-camped at Wog Wog on Anzac Property. Day evening so people could participate in urther dense Anzac events and to enable a very early Fscrub and start the next day. At 6 am Saturday steep, unstable morning we were on the track in cool, descents kept our clear conditions, with mist rising out of focus as we the valleys in the early morning light. We stumbled and made very brisk progress along the main tumbled our way walking track through open, wooded southeast along a country, crossing Wog Wog Creek, then ridge until a well- north and east before curving south onto made bridle trail Corang Plateau. was located that cycle walk raft kayak climb Graham pointed out aboriginal took us to the s s artwork just off the track and everyone Yadboro River. The Cradle Mountain & the West Walks Overland Track was travelling well. At that stage the idea river was cool, s Walls of Jerusalem s Cycle Tasmania of making the recommended campsite at clear and s Wirritin Basin, some 22.5 kilometres from delightful in the Blue Tiers and the Bay of Fires the start, looked possible. However, seeds midday autumn s Franklin River Rafting s South Coast Track of doubt were sown when discrepancies sun as we slipped between the 2nd Edition (1987) of Pigeon and splashed our To order a copy of our NEW BROCHURE House and Beyond, being used by Lee and way southwest. We the 1st Edition (1982), being used by enjoyed lunch by or for more information Call 1300 666 856 or visit Brett became apparent. Both editions the river and www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au suggested 2 long hard days and 12 hours reviewed our

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 11 to the summit (to allow Brett to Fortunately, we only caught the tail of a consummate his “conceptual” storm that passed to the south, and we passion for summit-bagging) while were soon on our way to the illusive the remainder of the party took a campsite. Lee received a scratch in the eye high-level traverse, following the from a grass tree, adding to a scratch in 850 m contour. The traverse proved the other eye from the previous day, so to be slow going across steep and the hike became the “blind leading …”. As crumbling rock. The party was darkness was closing in we made rough reunited in the saddle below Mount camp amid bracken in Wirritin Basin. We Roberts. We enjoyed a second were able to collect good water from morning tea then commenced a soaks near the source of the Yadboro tough scramble through sometimes River and shared some of our scarce food, dense scrub for the 350 m ascent before settling down for a cool and until we were above the 1000 m occasionally showery night above 1000 m. We haven’t given up yet ... contour line on Wirritin Ridge. We Monday morning was cold and misty. had lunch on the ridge and enjoyed We slept in to 6:30 am before sharing our pleased with our progress but 7 km short views seaward to the coast, with Jervis remaining food, so we all had something of our original day 1 objective. Bay and Tuross Heads clearly visible. for breakfast. We were on the track by 8 Sunday morning dawned cool and In an effort to avoid some of the am, and after a short bash through dense clear after a night of strong winds, and we steeper climbs and thicker scrub we tried scrub, we found a footpad that took us on were underway by 7 am. Our plan was contouring to the north into a copse of to the ridge line. We climbed to the simple: bag 3 summits; Wirritin trees. However, we were soon confronted Currockbilly trig point, at 1132 m, for a Mountain, Mount Roberts and with a long and slow obstacle course photo opportunity, although views from Currockbilly Mountain, then exit via through a tangle of fallen timber. One the summit were very limited by trees and Valeston Property. Wirritin was soon saving grace was that we found the upper scrub. A chilly, westerly wind kept us achieved and we enjoyed the first of many part of a small creek with good water; our moving briskly in the bright sunlight as magnificent vistas of the Budawangs area: first chance to replenish since lunch the we descended along a well-define Pigeon House and Talaterang Mountains, day before. We pushed through dense footpad, then fire trails and farm tracks to Byangee Walls, The Castle, Mounts scrub up to the spine of Wirritin Ridge, arrive at our vehicle at 12:30 pm. Nibelung and Owen and other features where the going was a little easier. Our As we enjoyed meat pies for lunch at the were spectacularly silhouetted to the final scrub bash for the day occurred Nerriga pub we reviewed our “2 long hard northeast, north and west in the morning when we decided to traverse to the south days” hike that had become “2.5 long light. However, progress was already east of a knoll, where we again plunged in hard days”. Our total walking time was slower than desired due to thick scrub to extremely dense, over head high scrub, about 26 hours for a hike much reduced and much loose rock. for a further energy and time consuming struggle, taking an hour to cover 500 m. s we approached Mount Roberts, By this stage it was late afternoon, very ABrett and Frank decided to continue dark clouds were building to the north and west and the decision was taken to find a suitable campsite. We were able to get a strong mobile telephone signal from the ridge top to inform our families that all was well, and that we would be spending another night in the bush. he going finally Tbecame easier, with a clearly defined footpad Step 1: a cup of tea leading along the spine of the ridge in length from that suggested in the track towards Wirritin notes. Although there were few new Basin, with lessons, several old lessons were Currockbilly reinforced: be wary of track notes written Mountain visible a 20 plus years before, “saplings” can grow little over 2 km to to be big trees, “footpads” become the southwest. overgrown and disappear, and dense However, the scrub can appear where none existed “mountain gods” before; in high country, always carry were not yet done appropriate clothing and shelter, as the with us. In fading weather can (and does) change very light, the dark quickly (we learned there had been clouds to the west widespread dustings of snow across the rapidly closed tablelands overnight); it is useful to carry bringing spectacular some extra food; carry sufficient water; lightning and make the decision to camp earlier rather strong, gusting than later; eye protection is a very good winds. Suddenly we idea when scrub bashing; a GPS and were pelted with mobile phone are very helpful aids; and horizontal sleet, as the Budawangs remains one of the most the temperature beautiful, spectacular and challenging t plummeted. hiking areas in Australia. We’ll be back.

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Book Reviews Larapinta Trail John and Monica Chapman

ISBN 978 1 920995 04 1 RRP $29.95

hile John and Monica were What this book does provide and Wwriting this book I had the the maps you can get elsewhere don't advantage of using the then-current provide is a detailed discussion of the text and maps for our own walk along geology, botany and flora and fauna the Larapinta Trail, from Sonder back of the region, plus some history. These to Alice Springs. On our return I was notes should be read before you start able to provide the authors with some the whole walk and before each stage. updates. Reading through the book as They are detailed and provide so it finally turned out brings back a lot much more to the enjoyment of the of very good memories of our trip. walk. Without them you could easily The book describes the walk from miss many of the fascinating features both direction, in 20 stages. We took along the Trail. less than that, completing the route 160 pages in full colour with a side excursion to Mt Giles in 11 throughout with detailed walk maps days. But the guide book does provide and track notes, and much quite enough information about each background information. ‘stage’ that the walker can decide what stages to amalgamate. There are maps with useful details, profiles, and Roger Caffin lovely photos.

and some other fairly wild areas. Popular South West highlights include: Passes of § South Coast Track Narrow Neck Tasmania § Port Davey Track § Southern Ranges Michael Keats and Brian Fox John Chapman § South West Cape § Mt Anne ISBN 978 0 646 48112 8 § Western Arthur Range ISBN 978 1 920995 03 4 § $24.95 ($28.30 posted) RRP $37.50 Federation Peak from [email protected] § Frenchmans Cap

It is therefore a good compliment to the hereas the Larapinta Trail book author’s other books on Tasmania which Wcovers just one fairly easy route, cover mainly the Cradle Mountain - Lake this book covers much ofthe South West St Clair area. National Park, the Franklin-Gordon Wild This book folows the same style for the National Park, Frenchmans Cap, more popular toutes as the other Chapman guide books, with detailed maps showing key bushwalker features, profiles and many lovely photos. It too brings back many memories of our trips there in the mid-1960s, when tracks were much less defined and the area seemed a bit more remote. But John makes the point in many places that this area is still not for the inexperienced, even with this guide book clutched firmly in one’s hand! Not all of the routes are given the full detailed treatment however: some are described very briefly. John makes the point that if you aren’t happy with such brief descriptions, you should start with other better-described routes.I have to agree. This book does make me think about returning to the South-West, despite our arrow Neck, that long thin stretch of Nland jutting out 15 km south from memories of the weather and the mud. the cliff line on the southern side of Yes, the photos are very good. Katoomba, divides the Jamison Valley 224 pages in full colour throughout from the Megalong Valley. Many of the with detailed walk maps and track notes, Passes of Narrow Neck have been known and much background information. Roger Caffin Continued on page 14

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 13 ANZAC Day, Splendour Rock, 2008

Bill Sanday

amp mountain Dair with the threat of further rain was an apt backdrop for Highland pipes intoning “Abide With Me” and, later, a “Lament” to further solemnify the Service for Shall Never Fade” communing with proceedings at the bushwalkers killed, barely distin- the Natural World A.N.Z.A.C. Day cited missing in guishable in the and for those Dawn Service, action or who died gloom from the present who Splendour Rock, of privation, in the Rock which has delight in doing the this year. Wet Second World War. been its home same... of weather didn’t Proudly, in the since1948 when Remembrance. deter the forty or occasional wind, anchored there by A debt of fifty who’d made our rain- soaked notables of outdoor gratitude is owed the journey to flag flapped from pursuits as a lasting Mr Ron Smythe of camp on Dingo Hill the rough stick to Memorial. Grafton whose or who made their which it was With Tributes ambition had been way through wet attached as placed and Tributes to play the pipes at darkness to be at evocative strains spoken the Service Splendour Rock, an Splendour Rock for echoed briefly to once again fulfilled ambition realised leave some with its unique purpose with great dignity. tears in their eyes, for those departed the plaque bearing who’d loved the Photos by Ian the stirring words bush... loved Partridge “Their Splendour walking there and

Passes of Narrow Neck

Continued from page 13

for thousands of years – ever the Megalong Valley to the since Aboriginal tribes used west. Inevitably the old routes the long plateau as a trade were re discovered. route. European interest in Michael Keats and Brian Fox, accessing the area was together with adventurous stimulated by early prospectors members of the Bush Club, searching for kerosene shale have not only rediscovered all and, later on, coal deposits. the old routes but also added a Bushwalkers ‘discovered’ new one. The addition of some Narrow Neck when steam rare historical material and trains made the Blue maps makes this book a must Mountains readily accessible for every bushwalker who from Sydney. Keen walkers claims to ‘know the Blue could catch a train after work Mountains’. Fit explorer types on a Friday night, camp out, will be dusting off their go exploring, and catch a late abseiling gear and planning train back on Sunday night, their next adventure; those not often arriving just in time to go so able will find themselves direct to work on Monday. encouraged up and down the More than any other more doable Passes. The book destination, Narrow Neck at also provides insight into those that time offered an passes that are now regarded opportunity to go deep into as folklore. the wilderness. It wasn’t long 128 pages in full colour before athletic walkers were throughout with historical seeking ways up and down the maps and notes, detailed walk ‘Neck’ to explore the Wild Dog maps and track notes, and Mountains to the south and edited by Roger Caffin.

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 Best Brands Best Range Best Advice Photo: Photo: MVP Miller / Taryn Cameron Barrie crossing the crossing Barrie Cameron en route to Blue Lake.

Sydney 491 Kent Street (02) 9264 5888 Chatswood 72 Archer Street (02) 9419 6955 email: [email protected] web: www.mountainequipment.com

Volume 33, Issue 3, Winter 2008 The Bushwalker | 15