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GRADEWOODWORK NOTES AND DIAIINGS BY JOSEPH F. PARKS

GRADE WOODWORK NOTES AND DRAWINGS

BY JOSEPH F. PARKS SUPERVISOR OF INDUSTRIAL EDUCATION WICHITA PUBLIC SCHOOLS

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SKUOND EDITION

WICHITA:HIGH SCHOOL PRESS 1919

A1S3D3IbOOflT

PREFACE An experience of thirteen years in teaching and supervising manual training work in the grades and high school has convinced me that a printed outline of the work being done should be in the hands of every pupil. Otherwise he will fail to get much information which he should have, as the teacher has so many pupils it is almost impossible to consider their per­ sonal needs. In cities where the grade pupils take manual or shop work for a quarter of a day per week the teacher will have from three to four hundred people. This outline is intended to supplement the work of the teacher. The pupil is expected to have his book on his bench while in the shop. He will be able to get the answer to many questions from the book more quickly than from the teacher, thus saving his time and the time of the instructor. The outline is based on a quarter of a day per week for shop work and is prepared especially for city schools. If it should be used by others it is very likely that the projects would have to be shifted and many substitutions made. The first part of the outline contains some infor­ mation that every grade pupil should get before he finishes the eighth grade. In the preparation of this outline much valuable information has been received from many writers who have written books on the subjects. Special mention should be made of Prof. Ira Griffith of the University of Missouri and Edward F. Worst, Chicago public schools. Mr. P. P. Bross of the Wichita High School and his classes in mechanical drawing should receive much credit for the drawings. INDEX

Page Auger Bits 19 9 Board Measure 28 Bolts 23 Braces 19 '. 20 Chamfering, Directions for. 36 18 Clamps 25 Counter Sink 20 Cross Lap Joint 74 Bits : 19 Expansive Bit 26 Files 24 Finishes, 27 Fillers y 27 Shellac 27 Stains 27 Wax 28 Glue 25 Gouges 18 and House Joint 80 Hammers 21 Hollow Auger 19 Lag Screws 23 Marking Gage _ 9 Miter Box 15 Joint.. 88 Nails 22 Outline for woodwork 31 Planes 10 Block 11 Circular 12 Combination 13 Fore 11 Jack 11 : 11 12 Smooth 11 Standard 12 Record of Work 34 Rule 7 24 - '. 14 Back 14 ,. 15 14 15 Cross Cut ..• 14 Dovetail 15 Hack 15 Rip 14 Turning 15 Saws, General Notes About 16 Scrapers :.... 20 Screws 21 Screw Driver 21 Screw Plugs 22 Set, ....- 20 Set, - - 17 Sharpening Irons and Chisels... 10 Snips - - 26 .-. 26 Spoke Shave 13 Squaring Up Stock..... — 30 Steel 8 Brace Measure 8 Essex Board Measure 8 Hundredth Scale 8 Octagon Scale 8 Rafter Measure 9 7 Upholstering Notes 29 THE PURPOSE OF THIS BOOKLET

1. To give specific information about and their uses. 2. To give the pupils drill in reading and executing working drawings. 3. To save the instructor's time by giving general information about projects being made. 4. To save the pupil's time as it will answer many questions for him. 5. To provide space for the collection of drawings. The owner of this booklet should collect drawings of useful and interesting projects and paste them in the blank spaces under the gen­ eral directions. Every pupil should strive to make this a note book that is worth while. Do not attempt to fill it in one day, but take time and collect only the best.

GENERAL SHOP NOTES

1. Form a line on walk in front of building and march in, hang hats and coats on hooks and remain in single line in front of hooks until roll is taken and announcements are made. 2. Go to lockers in order of your bench numbers, get your work, go to your bench and check your tools. 3. There is no room in the shop for the fellow who does not want to work. If you cannot attend to your business and let the other fel­ lows work, your instructor should give you a failing grade and dismiss you from class. 4. Every pupil should do his part to keep the shop in order. There are several things you can do. For example: keep your tools in order, leave in lumber rack in good order, put general tools back on board as quickly as you have finished using them, put your scraps of wood in the scrap box and pieces of sand paper in the box provided for it. 5. When your time is up, get tools in order and help the tool checker to make his report. Stand at your benches until instructor directs you to put your work away. After work is put away, return to your bench and be ready to pass by rows when dismissed. 6. The quality of your work should increase as you advance. If it does not it is your fault and you have no just claim for larger pro­ jects. 7. This is just as much your shop as ours and we want you to take just as much pride in it. It would be fine if your shop could raise a standard of quality and fine deportment that the other shops could not reach. May we count on you to do it? —6— 1. RULE—The rule, not ruler, is a measuring stick. One side should be graduated in sixteenths of an inch. The two-foot four-fold

RULE rule is a very desirable pocket rule. The two-foot, no-fold is the best for elementary work. You should always hold the rule on edge when making accurate measure. This will make the graduated marks come in close con­ tact with the board and there is no chance for guess work. 2. TRY-SQUARE—The try square is composed of two parts, the beam and blade. The blade is graduated in inches and fractional parts of an inch. The iron beam which is much thicker than the N°l2-6" blade, is much better than the wood beam. When you use the try square to test a surface to see if it is true, hold the beam in the hand, place the edge of the blade on the surface to be tested, hold the board toward the light and look under the blade for streaks of light. TRY SQUARE If no light is seen the surface is true. When you square the edge of a board you must place the beam of the square against side No. 1 and let the blade come down on the edge you are testing. Hold the board toward the light and try to look under the blade of the square. If no light can be seen, the edge is square to surface or side No. 1. When you use the square to square a line around the board the beam of the square must be kept against side No. 1 or edge No. 2. It is a serious mistake to place the beam against the unmarked side or edge. Hold the beam tight against the board and draw a knife line close against the blade of your try square. Now place your square against the other marked surface and make line. Continue until line is made on all four surfaces. Did you remember to keep the beam on the square against the working side and working edge ? Why is this necessary? Why should you NEVER saw against your square? I have seen boys ruin both their saws and squares doing that very thing. For accurate work lines should be made with a knife 3. — The names used to identify the different portions of the square when describing its many uses are as follows: Body, the longer and wider member. Tongue, the short­ er and narrower member. Face, the side visible (both body and tongue) when the square is held by the tongue in the right hand, the body pointing to the left. Back, BACK OF BODY the side visible (both body STEEL SQUARE and tongue) when the square is held by the tongue with the left hand, the body pointing to the right. ESSEX BOARD MEASURE—This measure is on the back of the body and gives the square feet and twelfths in any sized board or tim­ ber. The tables are for boards one inch thick. For any other thick­ ness multiply the figures given in the table by the thickness of the tim­ ber. The figures on the edge of the square form the 12-foot line of the table, and also represent the width of the board in inches. The figure 12 on the edge and the small figures in the column under it represent the length of the board in feet. For example, to find the square feet in a board 8 feet long and 14 inches wide: find 8 in the column under 12 on the edge of the square for the length in feet; 14 on the edge of the square for the width in inches. Follow the lines to where they come together and 9.4 is found, which is the number of feet in the board. If the board is one-half of this length, take half of this result. If double this length, then double the result. The scale covers all lengths of boards, the most common from 8 to 15 feet being given. OCTAGON SCALE—The Octagon or "8" square scale is on the face of the tongue of the square and is for laying out an eight sided figure on a square stick of timber so that when the corners are cham­ fered off to these lines the timber will have eight equal sides. The rule is to lay off 5/24 of the width of the timber on each side of the center for each inch in width, the marks on the scale are therefore 5/24 inch apart, and each space is correct for one inch. That is, for a square five inches on a side, five spaces would be taken. BRACE MEASURE—The Brace Measure Table is on the back of the tongue and is a very convenient arrangement for the common length of braces in a large range of timber frames covering runs from eighteen inches to sixty inches. The runs both ways are given in the two left-hand numbers, and the length of the brace required is at the right hand in each set of figures. For instance the first set is 24/24 33.95. The 24/24 showing the length of run and 33.95 the length of brace. HUNDREDTH SCALE—This scale is in the corner of the square at the right of the Brace Scale. It is one inch long, divided in hun­ dredths of inches, and subdivided into twenty parts by extending each —8— fifth line above the others. It is intended for use with the Brace Scale or wherever decimal fractions occur. This scale enables the workman to accurately lay off the exact number of feet, inches and hundredths required. RAFTER MEASURE—Rafter or Tables are on the face of the body and are computed for length of main rafters for seventeen . different pitches of room from 2 inches to 18 inches per foot. There are also the same number of tables for hip and jack rafters both for length and side cut. The run in every table is 1 foot. The reference marks at the left end of the six tables on the square show clearly the uses of each, and taken in connection with the marks on the outside edge, used in the case of the side cuts, enables the workman to lay out work accurately and without danger of mistakes. For example, to find the length of a main rafter for a roof with a 12-inch rise to the foot run or half pitch. Under the 12 on the upper edge of the square will be found in the first line of the table designated at the left end as ''Length of Main Rafters per foot run," 16.97. Multiply this by one- half the width of the building, and the whole length of the rafters will be found. Suppose the building to be 20 feet wide, 16.97 multiplied by 10 equals 169.70 inches, or 14.14 feet, which is the length of the rafter. The steel square is the most wonderful tool you have in the shop. Ask your English teacher to permit you to write a theme about the steel square. Many large books have been written about it. Go to the library and ask for a book on the steel square, read it and then write your theme. 4. BEVEL—The bevel is composed of a beam and a movable blade and is used in very much the same way as the try square. The only difference is that the blade of the try square is fixed at a ninety degree angle while the blade of the bevel may be set at any de­ sired angle and secured there with a set screw. If you wish to cut a you will need the bevel set at a forty-five degree T BEVEL angle. You can do this by placing the beam of the bevel against the edge of the body of the steel square and mov­ ing the blade of the bevel until it comes to the corresponding figure on the tongue of the steel square. For example, make the blade of the bevel reach from 3 to 3, 4 to 4 or 5 to 5. You will see that the line con­ necting the same figures is the diagonal of that square and the diag­ onal of any square bisects the 90-degree angle of the square. 5. MARKING GAGE — The marking gage is used to mark width and thickness, unless the dimension is more than six inches. 3 To use, the block or head should j N°65 be grasped in your right hand and MARKING GAGE

—9— your thumb placed against thebeam near the spur or marker. Next, take one end of your board in your left hand and let the other end rest against the or bench stop; place the head of the gage against the working or marked edge, if you want to mark width/and push the gage along the board. The first time do not try to make a mark but watch the block and see if it stays tight against the edge of the board. Keep doing this until you can make the block slide cor­ rectly. Now tip the block toward you so the spur touches the board and strike your line. Do not let it dig into the board. The gage should NEVER be used to mark across grain. After you have set your gage take the rule and measure to see if it is correct. You see the spur can get bent very easily, and if you do not check it with the rule serious mistakes will occur. The gage should never be used to mark chamfering lines.

PLANES. 6. The parts and adjustments of all standard planes are very similar. The dissembled cut names the parts and shows their usage. The adjustment nut (8) is used to raise or lower the plane iron that thick or thin shavings may be taken. The lateral adjusting lever (9) is used to make the cutting edge of the plane iron parallel to the bed of the plane. The cap iron (2) or shaving breaker should be set about 1/32 in. from the cutting edge of the plane iron. You should learn the names of the different parts of the plane you use. In using the plane the position of your body is very important. Your feet should be a good step apart with the left foot forward. Stand in front of your bench with your feet parallel to the bench. Grasp the plane handle with your right hand and the plane knob with the left. As you push the plane forward let the left bend so the weight of your body may be thrown against the plane. You MUST get this thrust of the body or you will have trouble using the plane. You should form the habit of laying your plane on its side when placing it on the bench. If this is not done you are likely to set your plane on some iron tool and nick or dull the plane iron. If your plane becomes choked with shavings, take it apart and re­ move the shavings but NEVER use a or knife to try to pry them out. The plane iron should not be perfectly square on the cutting edge. Slightly round the corners on the oil stone but not on the emery. A dull plane iron will do very poor work and you should not be satisfied to work with one. SHARPENING EDGED TOOLS —Plane irons and chisels are sharpened exactly th same way and the description of the method will serve for both. If the iron is very dull or has been nicked it will be necessary to grind it on the emery or grind stone. A tool rest should be used so you can keep the iron at the same angle all of the time. —10— The best way to get the angle, which is from 20° to 25° is to look at a new plane iron and grind yours like it. The bit should be moved back and forth across the face of the stone. If this is not done you will not have a straight edge as the stones are not perfect. Look at the edge often and as quickly as the white line disappears stop grinding. The bit is now ready for the flat oil stone. A fine India stone is good. Put a little kerosene oil on the stone and move the plane iron back and forth in a slightly circular motion, holding the iron at the same angle at which it was ground on the grinder. It will be necessary to turn your iron over, lay it FLAT on the stone, and take a few strokes. It

0/LSTO/V£ WHETTING PLANE IRON will now be necessary to whet on first one side and then the other for several strokes until the wire edge is gone. Now look at the cutting edge and see if there is a white line all the way across. If so your iron should be sharp; if not continue as before. Now is the time to slightly round the corners of the plane iron but not of chisels. Be verv careful in putting the plane iron cap on or you will dull the sharp edge which you have just gotten. It is best to put the cap on side ways, slide it up, turn it around and move it to place. By doing it this way you will protect your cutting edge. You should use a screw driver to tighten or loosen the cap screw. The following table gives the common length of planes: —5 in. to 8 in. —18 in. to 20 in. Smooth Plane—7 in. to 10 in. —22 in. to 30 m. —14 in. to 15 in.

JOINTER PLANE JACK FLANE —11— T

STANDARD PLANE 1A Double Plane Iron. 11 Plane Handle. 1 Single Plane Iron. 12 Plane Knob. 2 Plane Iron Cap. 13 Handle Bolt and Nut. 3 Cap Screw. 14 Knob Bolt and Nut. 4 Lever Cap. 15 Plane Handle Screw. 5 Lever Cap Screw. 16 Plane Bottom. 6 Frog Complete. 44 Frog Pin. 7 "Y" Adjusting Lever. 45 Frog Clamping Screw.' 8 Adjusting Nut. 46 Frog Adjusting Screw. 9 Lateral Adjusting Lever.

For all ordinary work the jack plane will render efficient service. The smooth plane will cut a smoother surface than the jack but it will not be as true because the bed is shorter. The jointer is used to true a long surface. In making long glue joints the jointer plane is very valuable. The block plane is a low angle plane used to plane end grain. It is a little better for this purpose than the jack as the angle is lower but the jack or smooth plane will do good work on end grain if the iron is sharp and set for a fine cut. 7. RABBET PLANE—The rabbet plane has a bit or iron the same width as the bed of the plane. This plane is used to plane any work that is close in a corner. They are fine to true up tenons after sawing. The castings for these planes are very easily broken. RABBET PLANE 8. CIRCULAR PLANE—The circular plane has a flexible steel bed and can be ad­ justed to fit either convex or concave sur­ faces. They are very valuable for such work as chair rockers or any other large regular curve. CIRCULAR PLANE -12— 9. COMBINATION PLANE —The cut shows the Stanley No. 45 which is one of the best planes of this type that is made. There is a set of about 30 different cut­ ters with this plane. The cutters include a set of rab­ bet bits, beading bits and a sash tool.

COMBINATION PLANE 10. SPOKE SHAVE—A spoke shave is a small plane with a handle on each side of the' cutter, so both hands may be used in the same position. The spoke shave may be either pushed or SPOKE SHAVE pulled. You will probably have the best success pushing it as you have the weight of your body to help you. Spoke shaves are used to plane curved or irregular surfaces and to round edges. They must be moved in the direction of the grain and not against it. Hold the spoke at a slight angle to your work.

—13— SAWS 11. CROSS CUT SAWS— Cross cut saws are used to saw cross grain and are filed and set for this particular work only. The teeth are filed at an angle which makes every tooth come to a sharp point on alternating sides. 20 in. to 22 in. saws are called panel saws.

12. RIP SAWS — teeth are filed to an edge and not to a point as are cross cut saws. Each CROSS CUT SAW tooth becomes a small chisel. Do you get the differ­ ence? A cross cut —a POINT; a rip saw—an EDGE. In filing a rip saw the file is pushed ^mmmmmmmmmmmmm^^^^^\i\^v\^A^ almost straight across the saw. RIP SAW 13. BACK SAWS — Back saws are so named because of the heavy rib on the back. The blades are very thin and this back rib is needed to keep the blade from bending. They are usually short except when used in miter boxes. BACK SAW For small work the back saw is much better than the large . A back saw may be either a rip or a cross cut saw, depending upon the way it was filed, but in most shops they are cross cut only. 14. — The compass or key hole saws are narrow tapered saws used to saw curves or to get into close places where the regular saw would not go. If a hole is COMPASS SAW wanted in a board, larger than the bit will bore, make a small hole and take the compass saw and saw to the desired size. The compass saw should be filed at a less angle than the cross cut saw and it must do both rip and cross cut work.

—14— 15. COPING SAWS—Coping saws are used for light curved or scroll work. The blades should be put into the handle with the teeth pointing toward the handle. This saw will do better work if it is pulled and not pushed as other saws. A great amount of work can be done at home with a 25c coping saw.

16. TURNING SAWS — Turning saws should be used for curved work when the stock is heavy. They are much heavier than the coping saw and will do faster work. The work may be clamped on the bench, with the surface to be cut extending only a short distance over the edge, and sawed by keeping the blade TURNING SAW of the saw perpendicular, or work may be placed in vise and saw held horizontally. The first method is best. Be sure that the saw cuts on the down stroke.

HACK SAW DOVETAIL SAW

MITER BOX

—15— GENERAL NOTES ABOUT SAWS AND THEIR USES Rip and cross cut saws differ in the way they are filed and not in the length of the saw or the number of teeth per inch. As a general rule rip saws are coarser than cross cut saws. Saws are numbered ac­ cording to the number of points per inch. There is al­ ways one more point than teeth per inch. The number of points per inch is usually stamped on the heel of the saw. Eight point rip and ten point cross cut are not always stamped as these are standards of common usage. In sawing, full length strokes should he taken. Rip and cross cut work can be done best on saw horses if large VI saws are being used. You should keep the saw at about a forty-five degree angle. In sawing with a back saw board on the bench and saw the board should be flat on the saw board on the bench and NOT on edge in the vise. In filing every alternating tooth is filed from one side and the saw is then reversed in the clamp and the other teeth filed from the opposite side. Do not "ride" on a saw. RIP SAW If it is properly filed and set it CROSS CUT SAW will cut its way through the board without being forced. In sawing always have a line and saw TO it and NOT on it. All saws should be set. That means that one tooth should be pushed or set to the right and the next one to the left. The amount of set depends upon the kind of work that is to be done. If the lumber is not very heavy and is dry, only a little set is required; but if the lum­ ber is heavy and wet, the saw must have much more set or the wood will pinch. Both rip and cross cut saws are set. This is done so the teeth will cut a kerf a little wider than the saw is thick.

-16— CROSS CUT SAW

RIP SAW I INCH >;

CROSS CUT SAW RIP SAW

SAW SET —17— 17. CHISELS—There are two types of chisels in common use, the tang firmer which has a tang or sharp projection which goes into the handle, and the socket which has a hole or socket to receive a tapered handle. The socket chisel should always be used for heavy work.

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SOCKET CHISEL

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TANG FIRMER CHISEL It is very important that chisels and plane irons be beveled on ONE side ONLY. Instructions have already been given for the sharp­ ening of edged tools, on pages 10 and 11. In chiseling concave surfaces the beveled side of the chisel must be down or against the work. For convex surfaces the straight side of the chisel must be against the work. A chisel should always be driven with the grain of the wood and not against it. Chisels should be driven with the wood and not pushed with the hand, except for light work. You should always chisel away from you. NEVER get one hand in front of the chisel unless you wish to cut it. 18. MORTISE CHISEL—The special mortise chisel is a very heavy, thick, socket chisel. Because of its thickness it is not easily broken. 19. GOUGES—Gouges are curved chisels and are sharpened or beveled either on the inside or outside. They are called inside or out­ side gouge, depending upon the way they are sharpened. You should

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INSIDE GOUGE OUTSIDE GOUGE use the outside gouge for concave surved surfaces, as pin tray, card tray, etc. The inside gouge is used a great deal in pattern making for core boxes, etc.

—18— 20. BRACE—Braces are used to hold and turn various kinds of boring bits. They differ in that the ratchet may be made to advance

RATCHET BRACE PLAIN BRACE the tool or bit without making a full sweep of the brace. The ratchet is valuable for close work where there is not room for a full sweep or swing of the brace. Braces are numbered in inches. An eight-inch brace is one that makes a circle eight inches in diameter, or a ten-inch brace will make a ten-inch circle. The eight-inch is a nice size to use. 21. AUGER BIT—The auger bit is used in wood only. In boring with it there are two precautions: first, be sure that the bit is perpen­ dicular to the surface into which you AUGER BIT are boring; and second, stop boring when the worm is through the board. When the worm of the bit can be seen or felt on the reverse side of the board, remove the bit and re­ verse the board; place the worm in the hole from which it was removed and bore the hole through. This will insure you a smooth clean-cut hole on both sides. If you do not reverse the work and bore from both sides the bit will break through and leave a ragged hole. The ragged hole is always the sign of carelessness. Auger bits are numbered in 16ths. What sized hole will a No. 7 auger bit bore? 22. DRILL BITS—There are for wood and drills for iron. The drill for wood is sharpened and tempered differently than the one for iron. The drill for iron will work in wood but the drill for wood will not work in iron. You should use drill bits for all holes under 14 in. and usually for the Vi hi. The drill has no worm to pull it into the wood so some pressure must be applied on the brace. Drills are tem­ pered hard and break very easily if the brace is permitted to wobble. If you are holding your brace in a vertical position let your head rest against your left hand which is on the knob of the brace. This will help you to hold it true. Drills for wood are usually numbered in 32nds. What sized hole will a No. 8 drill bore ? Which is the larger, a No. 8 auger or a No. 8 drill bit? 23. HOLLOW AUGER—Hollow augers are used in cutting round tenons. It is difficult to hold a hollow auger square to your work but they are very valuable in some lines of work, such as cutting tenons on wagon wheel spokes, chair rungs, etc.

—19- 24. COUNTER SINK—Holes for flat head screws must be counter sunk to '•» ceive the head of the screw. You do not counter sink for round head screws. The E3= rose pattern counter sink is the most sat­ isfactory. It can be used for either wood COUNTER SINK or metal.

25. SCRAPERS — Steel scrapers are small sheets of steel about the thickness of a heavy hand saw. Pieces of broken hand saws usually make fine scrapers. N°80 They may be beveled as a plane iron or sharpened square like an SCRAPER ice skate; in either case the edge must be smooth and sharp. This sharp edge must then be rolled over to make 2S5BK a hook shaped tool. This is done with any BURNISHER smooth piece of hard steel. A nail set or chisel may be used but the regular oval burnisher is much better. The cuts are enlarged and exaggerated, but show the appearance of the scraper before and after the edge is turned. A scraper should take a thin shaving when in use. Just sliding a dull scraper over your work will accomplish nothing. There are many kinds of handles to hold V y scrapers. If a handle is desired the Stanley No. 80 pattern is very good. SCRAPERS Scrapers will cut against grain and not tear the surface. For all curly or wavy wood as well as around knots you must use a scraper if you desire a good finish. A scraper will give a better finished surface than the plane on hard . Soft woods do not scrape very well.

26. NAIL SETS — Nail sets are small bars or rods of steel with a cupped end that will hold itself on a nail head. They are used to drive nails below the sur­ NAIL SET face of the wood They are made in several sizes.

—20— 27. SCREWDRIVER—A screwdriver is a bar of steel flattened at one end to fit in the slot of the

SCREW DRIVER I / screw head, with a handle on the other end. Differ­ ent sized screws require different sized screwdrivers. RIGHT WRONG Cut shows the right and wrong way to sharpen screwdrivers.

28. HAMMERS -—Claw hammers are used almost exclusive­ ly for wood work. The face of the hammer is very hard, the claws hard but tough, and the eye soft. The faces of the hammers should CLAW HAMMER NEVER be struck to- gether as they are very hard and are likely to break.

BALL PEIN HAMMER

29. SCREWS—Screws are numbered according to the gage of the wire from which they are made and the length is marked in inches. Thus li/i No. 6 means the screw was made from six gage wire and is 11/2 in. in length. The smaller the number of the gage, the smaller the screw. Thus a IV2 No. 6 is two gages smaller than a 11/2 No. 8, but they are the same length. Flat head bright screws are called F. H. B. screws, or in brass F. H. Brass. The round head screws may be had in several finishes as bright, blued, coppered, nickeled, or solid brass. In fastening two boards together with screws you should bore a hole through the first board the same size as the shank of the screw, counter sink for the head, and if the wood is hard bore a small hole in the second board. Be sure that the hole through the first board is large enough to permit the screw to be pushed through with the hand. You should not for round head screws. If you are working with soft wood you need not bore into the sec­ ond board.

—21— The following table gives the size or number of drills to use for different gage screws: No. or Gage of Screw Hole Thru 1st Board Into 2nd Board 6 and 7 5/32 in. Drill No. 5 4/32 in. Drill No. 4 8, 9 and 10 6/32 in. Drill No. 6 5/32 in. Drill No. 5 11 and 12 7/32 in. Drill No. 7 6/32 in. Drill No. 6 Screws should not be driven in with a hammer, but screwed in with a screwdriver. When you have pulled the screw down tight do not give it an extra turn as this will tear out the threads which the screw has cut in the wood. Screws do not hold very well when screwed into end grain. The fiber of the wood shears out very easily and the screw becomes loose. If you will take the screw out after it has been "driven home" and put a little glue in the hole and replace the screw it will hold much better. A better way, when it can be done, is to bore a hole across the path of the screw and put a hard wood pin in it and force the screw through the dowel. This cross grain will hold very well. Of course this hole must be bored from a concealed surface. In repair work loose screws must be tightened by plugging the hole in the second board. Many screws have been tightened by put­ ting a piece of a match in the hole.

30. SCREW PLUGS—Many times in furniture it is desirable to cover the screw heads. Screw plugs are used for this purpose. Oval head plugs may be bought or flat ones cut with a plug cutter. If you make your own flat plug be sure that you have the same kind of a board to cut out of that you are going to use them in. It is best to take a scrap of the same board. In the use of either plug it is necessary to bore a large hole for the head of the screw. This hole is usually bored with a No. 6 or No. 8 auger. Plugs are glued in by placing a little glue in the hole before the plugs are driven in. Flat head plugs should be glued in and planed off before the board is sandpapered. Round head plugs are not put in until after the sanding is finished.

31. NAILS—The following nails are used in almost every com­ munity and are common stock in most hardware stores: Common, box, casing, finishing and brads. Nails have been made a certain weight per thousand nails for a long time. The term "Penny" as applied to nails is of English origin. The abbreviation "pun" for pounds has been changed by usage to read penny and the meaning was that 1,000 ten penny nails should weigh ten lbs., or 1,000 six penny nails should weigh six lbs., or 1,000 three penny nails should weigh 3 lbs. Now that so many different sized nails are made the term penny refers to length only, and the style or gage of the nail must be specified in buying nails. —22— NAIL TABLE (Common Nails) 'Penny" Length in Inches Page No. Nails per Lb. 3 1% 14 568 3 iy2 12V2 316 6 2 Hi/2 181 8 2i/2 Id/4 106 10 3 9 69 16 3V2 8 49 20 4 6 31 BOLTS A bolt has three parts, head, bolt and nut. The nut is frequently incorrectly called a tap. A tap is the tool which cuts the thread in the nut. Will you remember that? 32. CARRIAGE BOLTS—Carriage bolts have round oval heads with a square shoulder under the head to prevent the bolt from turning when it is driven into wood, or into a square hole in iron. 33. MACHINE BOLTS—Machine bolts have square heads but no part of the bolt under the head is square. The bolt may be turned with the wrench just as well as the nut. 34. STOVE BOLTS—Stove bolts are made in both round and flat heads but have a different thread from the U. S. Standard which is used on both carriage and machine bolts. Stove bolt nuts will NOT fit other bolts of the same size because of the different thread. All nuts and machine bolt heads should have washers under them when used against wood. 35. LAG SCREWS—Lag screws have square heads like machine bolts and a thread like an F. H. B. screw but very much coarser. When used in wood care must be taken that correct sized holes are bored. As with wood screws the first hole should be the same size as the shank of the screw and the second quite a little smaller. Lag screws are fre­ quently used to fasten articles to a brick or stone wall. Holes are drilled into the wall with a star drill and, if the strain on the screw will be heavy, a metal expansive shield should be driven into the hole and the screw screwed into the shield. Where the strain will not be heavy a wood plug may be driven into the hole in the wall and the lag screw screwed into it. You should always use a washer under the head of the screw if it is to be pulled down against wood. 36. SAND PAPER—Sand paper is NOT a cutting tool but a fin­ isher. All dents, planer marks and scratches should be taken out of your board with the plane or plane and scraper and then use sand pa­ per to finish the surface. It is very important that sanding be done with grain and not in a circular motion or across grain. If you sand across grain the scratches made by the sand will show when the board is finished. Sand paper should be folded over a block of soft wood or cork. A piece of cork linoleum glued to a piece of wood makes a fine block. Paper should NEVER be tacked to the block but held with the thumb —23—

' and fingers. When the paper is worn turn crosswise of the block and it will improve the cutting quality. When sand paper is used without a block the soft places in the wood are cut down much faster than the hard one and the board becomes wavy. Garnet (crushed granite) is better than sand (crushed quartz) paper. The numbers refer to the fineness or coarseness of the grains of the crushed stone. The lower the number the finer the sand. No. 00 is much finer than No. 1 and No. 1 is finer than No. 2. Every shop should have a box to keep the worn sand paper in. When you want a piece of paper, first go to the box; if there is none there, ask the instructor. A piece of partly worn paper will cut much more smoothly than a new piece. Do not throw sand paper on the floor, but return it to the box. Shellac and should always be sanded with very fine paper, and a piece of partly worn is better than new. If new paper is used for this purpose two pieces should be rubbed together a few times to cut off the sharp points which would scratch the varnish. Never sand two surfaces that you are going to glue together. Joints must be made with the plane. 37. FILES—Files are strips or bars of steel with sharp edged furrows or teeth cut in them. There are more than three thousand different kinds and cuts of files made, but we are most interested in only three of them: the mill or flat hand file, the tapered saw file and the cabinet file which may be used on either metal or wood. A file cuts as it is pushed and should not be dragged back over the wood or metal. The good workman will have very little use for a file in the wood working shop. Many poor workmen use the cabinet file for work where a cutting tool should be used. Look over the shop and see who the boys are who wear their way through with a file. You are above that class, are you not? All files should have handles on them as it is dangerous to use them without. The tang of the file is sharp and it is likely to injure the hand if it does not have a handle on it. 38. CLAMPS-—The two kinds of clamps that you will use most are the bar or cabinet clamp and the hand clamp. (Sometimes called hand screws.) Bar clamps in lengths from two to five feet are used most. The eccentric bar clamp should NEVER be bought. Always get the screw clamp. Steel bars are much better than wood ones. In gluing up finished work always protect it from the clamp with a block of wood. The hand clamp has two wood jaws and two wood or steel screws. The steel screw is much more durable. The jaws of the hand clamp MUST be kept parallel or the results will be poor. In opening or closing the clamp grasp firmly the handles of the clamp and revolve the jaws, holding the handles tight in your hands. If you have never done this get a clamp and try it until you can do it easily. When you wish to clamp boards together place them between the ends of-the jaws and tighten the screw at the opposite end. Be sure to keep the jaws parallel.

PXT.FEB.7190S

HANDY MFG.CO,

39. GLUE—Glue may be obtained in two forms: dry or liquid. When only a small quantity of glue is wanted it is best to use the cold or prepared glue. Liquid or cold glue is best for repair work. In cold weather it is best to warm the glue by setting the can in warm water. Dry glue must have water added to it before heating and must be heated in a double boiler. This glue must be applied hot and the clamps set before it gets cold. Hot glue requires fast work. Glue should not be applied very thick but both surfaces should be coated. When you glue up finished work the surplus glue should be washed —25- or scraped off while soft. If this is not done it is hard to get off when dry. All surface glue MUST be removed before the stain is applied. \ Glue is not a crack filler. 40. SNIPS — Every shop should have a pair of metal snips. Snips will cut sheet metal just as a pair of scissors will cut paper. You should never attempt to cut tem­ pered metal with the snips. SNIPS

41. EXPANSIVE BIT—An expansive bit is an auger bit which '•^""•••"'•••••"""••-••'ffTrr' has an adjustable lip. There are two sizes in common use. The small one will cut from an inch to one and three-fourths inches and EXPANSIVE BIT the large one from an inch and three-fourths to three inches. If the hole is to be bored through the board you must bore from both sides.

42. SPIRIT LEVEL—It would be almost impossible for a car-

LEVEL penter to build a house that would have level floors or plumb walls without some form of a level. The one shown in the illustration is a common type.

-26- WOOD FINISHES Finishes are applied to internal wood work to make it more beau­ tiful, and to exterior to preserve the wood. There are many materials used for finishes: stains, fillers, shellac, varnish, wax, etc., for interior work; and for exterior. 43. STAINS—There are many different kinds of stain but water, oil and spirits are most useful. Water stains are cheapest and in some cases more transparent. The water will raise the grain of the wood and the surface will have to be sanded the second and some times the third time. This takes so much time that it becomes a serious objection to this kind of stain. Oil stains are easily applied as the oil does not evaporate or set rapidly. Oil stains are very satisfactory for either small or large sur­ faces. Spirit stains are a little harder to apply without showing brush laps as they evaporate very rapidly. Almost any shade of either of the above stains may be purchased already mixed and ready for use. If only a small quantity of stain is wanted this is the best way to get it. If a large quantity is wanted for interior trim of a residence, a cabinet shop, or manual shops, it is much cheaper to mix your own stain. A good medium priced stain can be made by mixing asphaltum varnish and turpentine. After the varnish is thoroughly cut in the turpentine, you may add kerosene and thus re­ duce the cost of the stain. One gallon of asphaltum may be added to ten gallons of turpentine and a fine quality of golden stain will be the result. Many shades of brown stain can be made this way. If a pint of boiled linseed oil is added to each gallon of stain it will be easier to apply. 44. FILLERS—Fillers are of two kinds, liquid and paste, and each or both are used to fill the pores of the wood. Shellac is one of the best liquid fillers and is used to fill close or tight grained wood. It requires quite a little sand papering but is a fine filler. One of the best paste fillers is made of silax (crushed stone) and linseed oil, which should be thinned with turpentine until it is about the same consistency as cream. This filler should be applied with a stiff brush and rubbed into the grain well. When almost dry rub off across grain with excelsior, shavings or burlap. Work should dry for twenty- four hours and then be sand papered lightly with the grain. If the wood is very porous it is sometimes wise to apply the second coat. Paste fillers may be bought in one pound cans or larger. It may be secured in natural, light golden oak, dark golden oak, and colors. If you mix your own fillers you can color with dry colors as burnt umber, Venetian red, lamp black, etc. Your wood should be be stained first and the filler mixed and shaded to match. 45. SHELLAC—Shellac is a varnish made from lac gum and alcohol and is the best varnish for manual training work. It is easy to apply and dries quickly. Three pounds of lac gum per gallon makes a good weight shellac to work. Four coats of light shellac will make a

—27— better finish than two coats of heavy. Shellac is orange in color, but may be bleached white. In applying shellac you must be careful not to brush it any more than absolutely necessary. If you can make one or two strokes of the brush cover the work it will look much better than if you brush over it several times. The alcohol in the shellac evaporates very quickly after it is spread on the board and the shellac becomes sticky and if you continue to brush it you will have a rough surface. 46. WAX—We used to make our polishing wax of bees wax and turpentine. This was the best wax made, but was expensive and hard to apply. We can now buy polishing wax that is ready mixed and of a good quality. The ordinary floor or furniture wax is good. A piece of work should have at least one coat of shellac under the wax. If this is not done the wood will absorb all of the oil that is in the wax and the polish has a very dead appearance. Wax should be applied with a small cloth or pad if you have a large surface; but if only a small one you may apply it with your fingers. After it dries for a few minutes it should be rubbed. If it is only a small piece you will get the best polish by rubbing with the palm of your hand, but if the surpace is large you should have a cloth or pad. Old knit underwear makes fine polishing pads. While polishing keep the same side of the cloth on the wood. If you keep turning it over you will rub your wax off and not have much of a polish left.- Wax makes one of our most artistic finishes as well as one of the best. It is good because it is not easily scarred and it will continue to get better from year to year. In fact the older the wax finish the bet­ ter it is, provided it is properly cared for. All waxed furniture and floors should be re-waxed at least twice per year. Final Direction—After your piece is well made and sand papered you are ready for the finish. Stain, shellac, sand with the grain with fine sand paper, shellac, sand, wax, polish, wax and polish. This will make you a good finish. 47. BOARD MEASURE—A board foot is twelve inches square and one inch thick. Lumber under one inch thick is figured as if it were lull thickness. A board that is only one-half inch thick is figured a full inch and not a half. All lumber over one inch is figured at cor­ rect thickness. Thus a board one and one-half inches thick has just one-half more lumber in it than a one-inch board of the same length and width. There are two ways to get the number of board feet in a board. One is to read your steel square, which has the answer ready for you, and the other is to figure it yourself. If you will multiply the thick­ ness in inches by the width in inches by the length in feet and divide by twelve you will have the number of board feet. How many board feet in the following: Three boards 1 inch thick by 12 inches wide by 14 feet long. This should be written as follows: 3—1x12—14 4—1 xlO—16 5—1 x 8—16 4—1x16—10 2—1 x 4—16 4—2 x 4—14 2—3x12—16 3—21/jx 8—16 3— i/2xl0—14 —28— UPHOLSTERING NOTES The average cow hide is split into at least five pieces before it is ready to put upon the market. After the hide has been tanned it is run thru the splitting machine and a very thin layer is taken off the hair side. This sheet of leather is so thin it must be reinforced before it can be used. It is used for book binding, fine pocketbooks, fancy cases, etc. The hide is run thru the machine again and the next layer is known as No. 1 upholstering leather. The hide is split again for No. 2 upholstering leather, and still again to get the No. 3; the part that remains is known as splits and is used for cheap brogan shoes, horse collars, etc. You will notice that every hide will thus make three hides of up­ holstering leather. The first or No. 1 is the best, while No. 2 is hardly equal to the best grades of imitation leather, and No. 3 is not nearly so good as the best imitation leather. Doubtless you have noticed this sign on upholstered furniture in the show windows: Genuine Leather. What does it mean ? Nothing. It is necessary for you to know whether you are getting No. 1, 2 or 3 leather. It is true that No. 3 is genuine leather, but it is so far re­ moved from the hair or grain side of the hide that it is a very poor quality. A good grade of imitation leather will wear much longer and look much better than No. 3 leather. The best imitation leather is equal to, if not better, than No. 2 cow hide. Imitation leather is made by the explosive plants of the country. It is an allied industry to the gun cotton industry. Under certain con­ ditions imitation leather will explode and under normal conditions will burn freely. I do not mean to intimate that it is dangerous to have in your home. It is perfectly safe. If intense heat is applied to leather it will shrivel and shrink and become hard, while imitation leather would burn. There are many different materials used for padding. Curled hair is considered the best, but because of the expense it is not used in medium priced furniture. The southern moss which grows on trees is used very extensively, but possibly tow (flax straw) is used most. If the following directions are observed for the type of work shown in this book the results should be satisfactory. After the tow has been cleaned, place an even layer on the board which is to be covered. You should put enough on so it will be from a half to an inch and a half thick after it settles. Lay your leather over the top, pull down slightly and tack. The tacks should be from four to six inches apart and should be driven in but a short distance, as they must . be pulled out. After both sides and ends are thus tacked you are ready to begin stretching your leather. Remove the tacks which you have already driven in one at a time and pull the leather a little tighter and replace the tack. It will be necessary for you to remove all of the tacks at least twice before you have stretched your leather even. When you have the leather in good shape put in more tacks and drive them home. When finished the tacks should be about an inch or an inch and a fourth apart. If you have tacked on a surface which will not be cov-

—29— ered, you should cover the tacks with a strip of gimp thru which you will drive the large metal headed upholstering tacks. Be sure that you have spaced the large tacks evenly. 48. TACKS are spoken of as 8 oz. or 10 oz., which means that a thousand tacks will weigh 8 oz. or 10 oz., as the case may be. You will thus see that the smaller the number the smaller the tack, thus a 2 oz. tack is very small, requiring a thousand of them to weigh two ounces.

DIRECTIONS FOR SQUARING UP STOCK 1. Plane the best side of the board smooth and level and mark it 1. This surface is called the face or working side. 2. Plane one edge square to side No. 1 and mark it No. 2. This surface is called the working or face edge. 3. Gage thickness from side No. 1 with your marking gage, and plane to the gage lines. Be sure to gage a line on both edges. 4. Gage to width with the marking gage from edge No. 2, but do NOT plane to the lines now, unless your board is more than four inches wide. 5. Square a line around the board near one end. Use your try square and a sharp pencil for this purpose in the sixth grade, and all grades above the sixth should use a knife to make the lines with. The beam of the square must be against side No. 1 or edge No. 2 when lines are drawn. 6. Saw the end of the board off just on the outside of the line you have just drawn. Saw with your back saw within one-sixty-fourth of an inch of the line. Be sure to get close to the line but not on it. 7. If the board is not more than four inches wide, bevel the cor­ ner of the edge which has not been planed just a little. Set your plane for a very fine cut and plane the end of the board. Plane from edge No. 1. If the board is more than four inches wide plane in from both edges and do not let the plane go off over the edge. 8. Measure length, square line around, saw off and plane the end. 9. Plane to width. —30— OUTLINE FOR GRADE WOODWORK 6B OUTLINE Group 10 Straight and sawing Sawing Exercise No. .208 with back saw.

Group 11 Clothes Hanger No. 140 Chamfering with the grain, Bill File No. 47 across grain and holes with a drill bit in a brace.

Group 12 Teetotum No. 168 Planing end grain square and Ring Toss No. 142 boring holes with auger bit.

Group 13 Sharpeners No. 23 Chiseling concave and convex surfaces.

Group 14 Match Scratcher No. 24 Sawing with scroll or coping Calendar Mount No. 33 saw. Finishing curved ends Memorandum Pad No. 32 with sandpaper.

Group 15 Flower Trellis No. 144 Outdoor projects which should Stilts No. 36 be painted.

Group 16 Block Puzzle No. 169 Projects of more than one Tie Racks No. 30 piece which review the work Ping Pong Paddle No. 143 given above. Bread Cooling Board No. 187

6A OUTLINE Group 20 Nine Men Morris No. 160 Test problem covering Groups Fox and Geese No. 46 10 to 16 inclusive. Laundry List No. 180 Fly Trap No. 165

Group 21 Clothes Stick No. 45 Rip saw work which will be Flower Trellis No. 202 graded before project is finished. Rip Saw Exercise

—31— Group 22 Wren House No. 147 Making duplicate parts with­ Whisk Broom Holder out working them out together. No. 65 Bicycle Rack No. 205 Letter Rack No. 157 Group 23 Hanging Basket No. 162 This group offers a variety of Foot Stool No. 154 projects, and the pupil should Table Mat No. 145 choose the kind of work that has Counting Board No. 190 given him the most trouble. Tooth Brush Rack No. 141 Doll Bed No. 200 Group 24 Choice from 6B or 6A Choose a problem which will fill out your time—which should be from one to three weeks. 7B OUTLINE Group 30 Cake Board No. 192 Curved sawing with turning Bread Board No. 55 saw, truing up curved ends with Coat Hanger No. 112 spoke shave, and rounding edges. Group 31 Wren House No. 163 Making duplicate parts from Stationery Rack No. 188 patterns Parts are not to be Book Ends No. 139 worked together in the vise ex­ Letter Box No. 135 cept for sanding. Ink Stand Holder No. 60 Food Drier No. 171 Group 32 Camp Stool No. 74 Duplicate parts in larger di­ Chicken Feed Box No. 156 mensions. Lay out with rule and Match Box No. 43 square, and work to the lines. Hall Tree No. 199 Foot Stool No. 98 Group 33 Kitchen Utensils No. 69 Topsy Turvy No. 179 Choose from this group a piece Plant Stand No. 153 you are sure you can make well Towel Rack Nor 175 and prove to yourself that you Sleeve Board No. 197 can do good work. Sled No. 101 7A6UTLINE Group 40 Cross Lap Joints No. 185

-32— I Group 41 Fern Stand No. 206 Foot Stool No. 166 Application of the half lap Jumping Standard No. 136 joint in uceful projects. Hat and Coat Rack No. 75 Hose Reel No. 191 Group 42 Groove Joint No. 183 Group 43 Taboret No. 181 The application of the groove Book Rack No. 189 joint in a series of useful pro­ Clock Shelf No. 176 jects which in themselves re­ Step Ladder No. 196 view the work in both sixth and Plats Rail No. 94 seventh grades. Foot Stool No. 73 Group 44 Stool No. 137 Work in this group is duplicat­ Stool No. 114 ing some you have already done; Umbrella Rack No. 167 therefore you ought to do it well. 8B and 8A OUTLINE Group 50 Mortise and Tenon Joint No. 184 Group 51 Umbrella Rack No. 95 This group offers a variety of Sewing Box No. 177 work. At least one piece should Round Table No. Ill be made which embraces the Hall Tree No. 90 mortise and tenon joint. The Hall Racks No. 115 pupil should strive for quality Pedestal No. 207 and not for quantity. Remem­ Pedestal No. 118 ber that you are now making Leg Rest No. 109 furniture that will be compared Woven Top Stool No. 138 with factory made goods when Leg Rest No. 199 taken home. If you do not have Stool No. 198 a piece that you are sure will Stool No. 182 compare favorably with the Taboret No. 195 other furniture you have in Ironing Board No. 193 your home you should make it Plant Stand No. 178 right before it is taken. It mat­ Magazine Rack No. 97 ters not how perfect the joints Hat Rack No. 201 are, if you get a poor finish the Flower Box No. 158 effect is not pleasing. Spend Book Rack No. 121 time and energy on the finish. Polishing Box No. 186 Camp Chair No. 96 —33— ••! r

Necktie Box No. 81 Ice Card Frame No. 133 Wall Cabinet No. 89 Round Table No. 172 Waste Basket No. 67 Drop Leaf Table No. 194 Serving Tray No. 108 Work Bench No. 174 Letter Box No. 61 Porch Swing No. 203 Bread Board No. 134 Library Table No. 170 Every boy should make at least one project from each group. The sixth B grade begins with No. 10, the sixth A with No. 20, the seventh B with No. 30, the seventh A with No. 40, and theighth with No. 50. There is no division of the eighth grade. TOOLS ON YOUR BENCH Plane, Try Square, 2-ft. Rule, Marking Gage, Back Saw, Three- Eighths-Inch Chisel, Three-Fourths-Inch Chisel, Mallet, Brush, Saw Board. Be sure that you know the names of every tool you use. You can do more and better work in thirty minutes with sharp tools than in a full period with dull ones; therefore, save time and raise the quality by sharpening your tools as directed by the instructor. RECORD OF WORK DONE Below give the name and number of all the projects made and your semester grade. PROJECT No. GRADE

6B :

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-34— Group 10 SAWING EXERCISE No. 208 This exercise piece should be very carefully made. If you do care­ less work on the first piece you will have much trouble in the future. Read and follow directions for squaring up stock, except that you will not plane the ends. After board has been planed to thickness and width square a line around the board near one end and saw to the line. Measure length, square line, and saw. Complete layout according to drawing. Gage depth of saw kerfs on each edge from side No. 1 and saw to lines. Locate the center for the hole and place your board in the vise on edge. You will now stand in front of your work to bore the hole. When you have the worm of the bit started have a boy to stand to the right or left of your work and tell you whether you are holding the brace square to the board. Bore until the worm of the bit is through, then reverse the board and bore from the other side. Why did you do this ? Do not sand or stain. Print your name on the back side one inch from end in letters one- eighth inch high.

Group 10 SAWING EXERCISE No. 208 —35— Group 11 CLOTHES HANGER, No. 140 Follow carefully directions for squaring up stock and chamfering. Why should you with the grain first? Locate holes for hooks and screws before the board is sand­ papered. Make holes for the hooks with a four-penny shingle nail. Put a block of wood under your hammer when you pull the nail to pre­ vent the hammer from marring the finished surface. Place board in vise on edge and drill holes for the screws. Use a No. 6 drill. What sized hole will it bore? There is a reason why the holes are just 16 inches apart. Do you know why? How far apart are studding? A lath is 48 inches long and is nailed to four stuuding. How far apart are the nails? Hooks should not be screwed in until the board is finished. Have you read the chapter on finishing? Do you remember the process? Sand, stain, shellac, sand, shellac, sand, wax, and rub, rub, rub. Group 11 BILL FILE, No. 47 Square up your stock, read directions for chamfering, and cham­ fer ; bore hole and sandpaper. Nails may be driven through straight and bent to the desired angle, or if you are careful you may drive them through at an angle. DIRECTIONS FOR CHAMFERING Draw all chamfering lines with a pencil and NEVER use a mark­ ing gage. Every shop should be provided with a chamfering gage. You must draw lines on both face and edge with the grain and across the grain. Lay your board flat on the bench with the end against your bench stop, lay your plane on the bench at an angle of 45 degrees and let the edge of the plane slide on the bench as you chamfer with the grain. Watch the line carefully and stop when you get to it. You see you will push your plane with one hand and hold the board with the other. For cross grain work place your board in the vise with the face side up and the end pointing up at an angle of 45 degrees. You can now hold your plane in a horizontal position but you should plane at an angle so you will get a shear cut. If you plane square across the grain the surface will be rough. You should always chamfer with the grain 'first so the corners will not split off when you plane the end grain. The beauty of a chamfer is straight surfaces. If you get a round surface it will spoil the effect. You MUST have the sharp corners. When you sandpaper use a block or you will round the sharp lines.

—36— CLOTHES HANGER, No. 140

—37— Group 12 TEETOTUM, No. 168 Square up stock. You will have to be very careful when you plane the end of the stock not to let the plane go over the edge and split the corner of your piece. Plane in from each edge. Place board in vise on edge and bore hole with a No. 6 auger bit. What sized hole will a No. 6 auger bit bore ? Which is the larger a No. 6 auger bit or a 3/16 inch drill ? Put a little glue in hole and drive dowel in from top side. If dowel is not tight split and wedge. Should wedge be placed with the grain or across the grain of the square base ? Why ? Take the tin lid to school and have your drawing teacher show you how to paint a spectrum wheel in it. When you spin the lid or wheel why do the colors appear to be in rings ? Group 12 RING TOSS Directions same as for teetotum. Rings may be made of embroid­ ery hoops, reed, insulated wire, or rope.

—38— TEETOTUM, No. 168

Brass Nut of Oru Cell Tin Lid-any siz.e balance for center of lid. it Solder nut on top side. Apply flux, locate nut, pi ace-small piece of solder in hole, and *tf-j_ warm from under side. Punch small hole thru J. lid in center from under Side.

KING TOSS

—39- Group 13 SHARPENERS, No. 23 Square up stock to correct dimensions and mark handle from a pattern. Handles are to be chiseled and not sawed. Place board in vise and saw down to your line at the smallest part of the handle. In chiseling, remember the beveled side of the chisel must be down for concave work and the straight or flat side for convex work. Drive your chisel with a wood mallet. Do not cut quite to the line the first cut. Be sure that you cut with the grain and not AGAINST it. You will need a sand paper block with a curved surface to sand the edge of the handle. The sand or emery paper should be fastened on with shellac. Coat both the back of the paper and the surface of the wood. Stick paper in place and put in your vise for about five minutes. Get it in the vise quickly after the shellac is applied. Group 14 MATCH SCRATCHER, No. 24 Read directions for use of coping saws. Plane stock to width and thickness but square only one end. Mark designs from pattern and saw out. If you saw carefully you can.finish with sandpaper. Stain, shellac, and wax. Shellac sandpaper onto wood. Group 14 CALENDAR MOUNT, No. 33 Plane to thickness and square one end. Mark design from pattern.

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• KN/EE SHARPENER -/" i '4 11 _L If 1 ' t» I • J6 ^6 :'. •'•'. Sane/paper i r PENCIL POINTER

—40- I MATCH SCRATCHER, No. 24

CALENDAR MOUNT, No. 33

—41- Group 14 MEMORANDUM PAD, No. 32 Plane to thickness and square one end. Mark out with a pattern, saw end, and plane sides to lines. Do you remember the finish? Sand, stain, shellac, sand, shellac, sand, wax, and rub to a polish. Group 15 FLOWER TRELLIS, No. 144 After strips have been ripped, plane edges to width, but you need not plane sides. The center post may be made longer if desired. Trellis should be well nailed with box nails, Why should this piece be painted and not stained ? Group 15 STILTS, No. 36 Plane edges of stock and round the corners just a little. Ripping the blocks will give you a good rip saw problem. Each boy should provide his own leather straps. This project should be painted.

MEMORANDUM PAD, No. 32

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-43— Group 16 BLOCK PUZZLE, No. 169 Square up base and a strip seven-sixteenths by three-eighths by twenty-one inches. Saw one end of a strip square and nail strip to base. The square end of strip must be seven-sixteenths of an inch from left edge. After strip is nailed down with five-eighths-inch brads, saw it off even with the right edge of base. Repeat process until all strips are on. Now for the men. Plane up a strip three-eighths inch by one and one-sixteenths inch by eighteen inches. Be sure that width is correct. Saw men to length in a small miter box. Use a stop so all will be same length. Each of the fifteen men should be numbered. DIRECTIONS Place the men in frame in a mixed order. The object is to slide the men into their regular places so that numbers will be consecutive. You must not pick a man up. Yes, it can be done.

Group 16 TIE RACKS, No. 30 Either design may be chosen. If you have had trouble with cop­ ing saw and spoke shave, use the curved end design. In making the straight line design square up your stock as usual, but for the second design plane side No. 1 and edge No. 2, gage for thickness and plane to line. Measure length and square lines from edge No. 2. Set compass at 1% in. and draw very light lines with the compass. Set gage at y% in. and connect the arcs of the circles. Next set gage at 3 in. and gage for width. Next remark circular ends with compass and make strong lines, but do not let them cross the gage lines.

-44- BLOCK PUZZLE, No. 169

TIE RACKS, No. 30

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—45- Group 16 PING PONG PADDLE, No. 143 Plane both sides of your board but you need not plane either edge or end. Why? Paddle should be marked out from a pattern. Saw out paddle with coping saw and the handle with a rip saw. Finish edges with spoke shave. Plane strips for handle to width and thickness but do not chamfer until after they have been glued and nailed on with three % m- brads on center line. Chamfer or bevel with spoke shave and chisel. Put four more brads in each side near edges. Group 16 BREAD COOLING BOARD, No. 187 Nail strip on with one brad. Square up with try square, then add two more 1*4 in- brads in each joint. This piece should not be stained or shellaced as the hot bread would soak up the finish. Sandpaper well. Group 20 Square up stock for Group 20 in the following order: working side, working edge, thickness, width, square one end by planing in from both edges, saw to length, finish end with plane, chamfer with the grain, and chamfer across grain. Holes should be located from the center line and bored with a 3/16 inch drill before the board is sanded. You must use some kind of a gage for depth. PING PONG PADDLE, No. 143

i BREAD COOLING BOARD, No. 187

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47— Group 20 is used as a test. If you cannot make one of these projects within 1/16 of an inch of the drawing you are not capable of doing 6A work. You may choose either of the four projects, but re­ member that every piece is to be graded and must not be off over 1/16 of an inch in any given dimension. Group 20 NINE MEN MORRIS, No. 160 Lay out from center line Drill 3/16 inch holes. What number drill will you use? Group 20 FOX AND GEESE, No. 161 Group 20 LAUNDRY REGISTER, No. 180 Every person should keep a record of laundry sent away. The board with peg counters is an easy way to do it. If you wish you may bore another row of holes on each side. You will then have ten. DIRECTIONS FOR GAMES NINE MEN MORRIS—Each player should have twelve pegs. The object of the game is to get three men in a row. First player places a peg and the second tries to break his combination by so placing a peg that his opponent will not be able to have three men in a row and at the same time get three of his own men in a row. FOX AND GEESE—Place fifteen pegs of one color and one of another color on the board as shown in Fig. 2. The fifteen represent the geese and the single peg the fox. The fox is privileged to move in any direction square across the board (not diagonally). The geese may move forward or in either direction sideways, but not backward. The fox may jump the geese, removing them from the board. The geese may jump the fox, but without removing him from the board. It merely moves the geese forward two holes instead of one. The fox endeavors to capture all the geese and the geese endeavor to corner the fox so that he cannot move or jump. SOLITAIRE—Place pegs on the board, leaving the center hole vacant as shown in Fig. 1. The object of the game is to clear the board by jumping and removing the pegs jumped, leaving a single peg in the center. You are privileged to jump in any direction square across the board but not diagonally. PYRAMIDS—Place eighteen pegs on the board as shown in Fig. 3, each player having an equal number. Each player may move forward or sideways, but not backward. He may jump his opponent's men without removing them from the board. Jumping merely helps him to progress more rapidly, but only one man may be jumped at one time. The person who first succeeds in moving his pyramid from his ter­ ritory and re-forming it in his opponent's territory, wins the game. GIVE AWAY—Place twenty-six pegs on a board as shown in Fig. 4, each player having an equal number. Each player must jump his opponent's peg when it is possible to do so. The pegs may be moved or jumped forward or sideways, but not backwards. —48— FOX AND GEESE. No. 161

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© 0 © © 0 © 0 © 0 a © © © ••& o-o-d>-e-o-e- --©-©-© ©-o-©-©— o e e © e © o © e e © © © e © e © © o © o © 1f © i FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FIG. 4 The pegs used in the different games and in the counting boards may be made from burnt matches. The burnt end should be cut off, leaving a peg one and one-fourth inches long. You may dip them in different colored inks, or bring them to school and stain them. Group 20 FLY TRAP, No. 165 Every home should have a little back porch fly trap, and this one will serve well. A 21/2 inch hole is bored in center of board with an ex­ pansive bit. The cone is made of screen wire and tacked in from the under side. The flies may be killed quickly by burning a little sulphur under the trap. The foot blocks should be squared up in one piece % in. by 11/2x7 in. Chamfer one edge, saw to length; then chamfer one end. Nail on with two 3-penny box nails. FLY TRAP, No. 165

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—5U- TRELLIS, No. 202

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-51— Group 21 Group 21 is given especially for the practice in rip sawing. You have ripped out some stock but this is the first ripping you are to re­ ceive a grade on. You will be able to do the best work if you will hold your work on a saw horse. Saw at a 45 degree angle. Group 21 TRELLIS, No. 202 Square up your stock, make gage lines, and rip on lines. Can you divide 2% in. into five equal parts quickly? Lay your rule across the board at an angle so that the board will measure 2% in. Make a dot every 1/2 in. Now will you remember that ? Keep your rule on edge. Bore hole before you begin ripping. Group 21 CLOTHES STICK, No. 45 Plane side No. 1 and edge No. 2; bring to thickness and saw to length. Lay out handle with gage from edge No. 2. Lay out fork from center line, which is 11/2 in. from working edge, and bore a % in. hole 81/0 in. from end. Rip on outside of handle lines and on inside of fork lines. This problem must be given to your instructor for a grade in rip sawing before you finish with a spoke shave. No grade will be given for the finished stick unless it is graded before you use the spoke shave. No stains. Group 21 RIP SAW EXERCISE If you do not want to make either the flower trellis or clothes stick, an exercise in rip saw work may be substituted. Square up a strip % in. by 21/4 in. by 20 in. and lay out just like trellis except that the gage lines should be 16 inches long. All lines must be made from the working edge. Saw on the lines. Group 22 WREN HOUSE, No. 147 Notice the front and back pieces are made five inches long and a half inch cut off of the point. This is done to ventilate the house. One side may be fastened on with one screw through the bottom so it (may be removed easily to clean out old nest. Group 22 is given that you may get some real practice in making duplicate parts. You should be able to make two pieces alike without working them together in the vise. It is a sign of poor work to have to put your pieces together and work them down. Do not do it. Group 22 WHISK BROOM RACK, No. 65 Square up a piece 14 inches long and 5 inches wide for the front and back. Lay out the taper, remove surplus stock with your large chisel, and plane to line. The two side pieces should be squared up in one piece and then cut to length. —52— WREN HOUSE, No. 147

WHISK BROOM RACK, No. 65

—53- Group 22 BICYCLE RACK, No. 205 Square and chamfer back board. The two top pieces ought to be planed before they are cut in two. Plane working side and edge, and plane to width. Set gage at % in. for one edge and % in. for the other. Put together with four 1% in. F. H. B. screws. This rack may be fastened to the wall or floor. Group 22 LETTER HOLDER, No. 157 The designs should be cut around with a sharp knife and stained with mahogany or green stain. After it is thoroughly dry, apply golden oak stain over entire surface.

—54— BICYCLE RACK, No. 205

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-55— Group 23 STOOL, No. 154 Square up the two ends in one piece, saw to length and then saw the half circle with the turning saw. Notice how the top is fastened on with screws through a strip on the under side. Read the chapter on and follow directions. This piece can not be finished in one day. It will take you at least three days. Group 23 HANGING BASKET, No. 162 Strips should be cut in a little vise miter box, which has a 10 in. stop or gage block nailed in it. Take a shaving off all four surfaces but you need not test with your square if you plane carefully. The holes must be drilled square thru the strips or you will have trouble getting wire thru. Drill one and use it for a pattern thru which to drill the others. Bottom should be nailed on before basket is wired together. Group 23 TABLE MAT, No. 145 Directions same as for Group 20. Corners must be rounded before you chamfer.

STOOL, No. 154

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—56-

Group 23 COUNTING BOARD, No. 190

Group 23 TOOTH BRUSH RACK, No. 141

Group 23 DOLL BED, No. 200 The doll bed is an extra problem for those who have done excel­ lent work. The drawing should be studied carefully. The posts are screwed to end rails and the side rails screwed to posts with 1% in. F. H. B. screws. Slats are all nailed on.

Group 24 Choice from 6B or 6A work.

COUNTING BOARD, No. 190

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—58— TOOTH BRUSH RACK, No. 141

DOLL BED, No. 200

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—59— Group 30 Group 30 is given especially for the turning saw and spoke shave work which it offers. Stock must be planed to thickness; lay out de­ sign and saw to the line with a turning saw. The edges must be trued up with the spoke shave before they are rounded. Make a marking gage of your pencil and fingers to mark the lines which indicate the amount of curve which is to be made on the edge. This is a better way than trying to use the compass. The cake and bread boards should be made of white , cypress, or gum, and should have no stain applied. Group 30 CAKE BOARD, No. 192 Group 30 BREAD BOARD, No. 55 Group 30 COAT HANGER, No. 112

CAKE BOARD, No. 192

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—60— BREAD BOARD, No. 55 Group 31 Group 31 is a test problem in making duplicate parts. This is only the second group offering this work. You should be able to make two parts alike without placing them in the vise together. You should make a pattern to mark the curved surface by. You will have use for both your coping saw and your chisel in executing the curves. The design on the book ends should be made in the same manner as the de­ signs on the Letter Holder in Group 22. Ends and edges that are to be fastened together are not to be sanded. Group 31 WREN HOUSE, No. 163 Be sure to square up your stock in long pieces as drawing indi­ cates. Notice that bottom is hinged on two nails so it may be opened and cleaned out. Group 31 STATIONERY HOLDER, No. 188 Choose one of the five designs suggested and make a paper pattern to mark your pieces from.. You may place a stained design on the front piece if you desire. Group 31 BOOK ENDS, No. 139 Be sure that you counter sink the metal to receive the head of the screws. You should bring a piece of felt, velvet, or canton flannel to shellac on the bottom of the metal. This will prevent it from marring the finish on your table. WREN HOUSE, No. 163

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—62— STATIONERY HOLDER, No. 188

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—63- Group 31 LETTER BOX, No. 135 Square up sides and bottom in one piece and saw to length. Ends of bottom piece should not be sandpapered. Place the top and bottom pieces together and mark centers for holes to receive the wire.

Group 31 INK STAND HOLDER, No. 60 Measure ink stand carefully before you cut notch to receive it. It makes no difference how perfect your joints are, if you do not cut to fit stand a poor looking piece will be the result.

Group 31 FOOD DRIER, No. 171 If your drier is to be used in the oven you must make frame to fit the oven. You will need about three frames to fill the oven. If you are going to dry in the sunshine, make any convenient size. Group 32 offers some real work. The more advanced people should choose a piece that will require some good workmanship. If your time will not permit you to make one piece from each group, 32 and 33, you may make your choice from the two groups.

LETTER BOX, No. 135

—64— INK STAND HOLDER, No. 60

FOOD DRIER, No. 171

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-65- Group 32 CAMP STOOL, No. 74 The camp stool should be made of hard wood. Notice that the leg has a round tenon on it which goes through the top cross piece. With a pair of dividers draw a circle on the end of the post. Square a knife line around the leg % inch from end. Bore hole through the top piece with a No. 12 auger bit. What will be the diameter of the hole ? The legs should be fastened with a stove bolt or a rivet. It would be well to put a washer between the two posts so they will fold together easily. Group 32 CHICKEN FEED BOX, No. 156 The drawing explains this problem very well. Notice that the two end pieces are alike and the two partitions have the same dimensions. Did you notice how the top is hinged on? Group 32 MATCH BOX, No. 43 The match holder should be cut from a % inch by 1% inch by 3 3/16 inch board. Mark on both ends and saw out with rip saw. The inner curved surface must be cut out with gouge.

CAMP STOOL, No. 74

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-66— CHICKEN FEED BOX, No. 156

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—67— Group 32 HALL RACK, No. 199 The bottom piece may be reduced to twelve inches if you desire. The chain which holds the umbrellas should be hooked into screw eyes. Open the eye just a little and close it after the chain is in place. Group 32 FOOT STOOL, No. 98 After you get your stock squared up locate holes for the end de­ sign. The hole is % inch in diameter; what number bit will you use ? How many sixteenths in three-fourths? You will need both the rip saw and the turning saw. Finish the end design with your chisel. Why are the placed in the side rails ? The top should not be fastened on until after it is upholstered. You should start your finish on the stool before the top is made. While you wait for the shellac to dry you may make the top. Group 33 KITCHEN UTENSILS, No. 69 These two food mixers should be in every kitchen. You can scrape the bottom of a pan or kettle easily, and they are good mixers. They should be made of , or .

HALL RACK, No. 199

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—68- FOOT STOOL, No. 98

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KITCHEN UTENSILS, No. 69

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—69— -tr.

Group 33 TOPSY TURVY, No. 179 This project will test for accuracy. If you do not get Topsy cor­ rectly made he will not swing down the ladder from one bar to another. Group 33 PLANT STAND, No. 153 The legs should be marked out with the wide ends alternating. This will save both labor and material. An eight-inch board—which will measure about seven and one-half—will make the four legs. The top ends must be squared from the center line.

Group 33 TOWEL RACK, No. 175 Square up stock, cut corners off, and chamfer. It will take skillful work to make the chamfering look right. The % in. round posts are fastened on with screws. Your instructor will show you how to do the .

TOPSY TURVY, No. 179

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-70- PLANT STAND, No. 153

TOWEL RACK, No. 175

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-71— Group 33 SLEEVE BOARD, No. 197 You should follow directions carefully in laying out this project. In cutting out use a rip saw for the straight line and the turning saw for the curved surfaces. Group 33 SLED, No. 101 Notice that there are two sizes shown. The smaller one is much lighter and will serve you well. You should bore holes through the front end of the runners to receive a rope. Why should the sled be painted?

—72— SLEEVE BOARD, No. 197

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-73— Group 40 CROSS LAP JOINT, No. 185 Cross Lap Joint—This joint is used so much that every boy should know how to lay out and make it. There are two ways of laying out the joint and we will ask you to use the first method given for the ex­ ercise piece No. 185. Square up your stock to thickness, width and length. Keep your rule on edge when measuring. Read your draw­ ing carefully and lay out from each end to the middle. Notice that you must make marks on both sides so you will measure on one side from the other end. Draw knife lines through the dots or measure points just made. The knife lines must be extended about half way across the edges of your stock. Did you keep the handle of your square against the working side and edge? Set your gage and mark from side No. 1. The gage line should be made on both edges between the knife lines you have just made. This line marks the depth of the joint. But joints MUST be marked from the same side even though they are cut on opposite sides. Do you see why? In the first joint you marked the depth of the joint and in the second you. marked off just enough wood to fill the first joint. This is very important and it would be a serious mistake to use your gage from both sides. Place your stock on the saw board and with your back, saw cut down to the gage lines. Be very sure that you saw on the inside of the knife line. If you saw on the line or on the outside of it you will have your joint too wide. Saw to the line but have the thickness of the saw in the waste material. Do not cut your piece in two until after both joints are finished. This is used as a test problem and we want to grade you on your ability to work to a drawing. It will be best for you to put your work in the vise while using the chisel. Do not cut all the way across as the chisel will split the wood on the opposite side from you. Go about half way and turn your wood around and work from the other side. The illus­ tration shows how to hold the chisel. Do not try to cut all of it at one time. The bottom of your joint should be smooth and true. Print CROSS GRAIN CHISELING your name on both pieces Letters should be one-eighth of an inch high.

-74—

— CROSS LAP JOINT, No. 185

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—75—

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Second method is quicker. The illustration explains the method very well. Cut your pieces to correct length. Lo­ cate the center line on the face side of one piece and on the end of the other piece. Place center lines together and make a knife dot on each side of the top piece. Then with your try square and gage lay out as described above.

Group 41 Group 41 is composed of projects which embrace the cross lap joint. It will be necessary for you to make a good exercise piece be­ fore it would be wise for you to attempt any of these pieces. Group 41 FERN STAND, No. 206 You may change the dimensions to make the stand fit your fern pot. The posts are fastened to the cross pieces with five-eighths inch dowels. The dowels should be wedged from the bottom and a brad driven thru the post into it after it is glued into place. The top and foot blocks may be fastened on with brads. Group 41 FOOT STOOL, No. 166 This is an excellent project for the application of the cross lap joint as there are two joints, one into the edge of the boards and the other into the sides. Be very careful in finishing the tops of the post. The surfaces should all be true and the lines straight and positive. Group 41 JUMPING STANDARDS, No. 136 If standards are wanted for jumping only, make base 18 in. long and do not add the extension post. If wanted for vaulting also, make according to drawing. Notice that holes are bored in first post only and that the extension on post has only one hole through it.

—76— FOOT STOOL, No. 166

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—11— Group 41 HAT AND COAT RACK, No. 752 This is another fine cross lap problem. Notice the detail of the joint for the two center pieces which are screwed in from the back. Group 41 HOSE REEL, No. 191 The hose reel should be attempted by the best workmen only. The regular cross lap joint is used in the reel, but the joints in the frame are a little different. You will notice that they are end joints and that they are cut at an angle. This is a fine project but requires careful work.

-78— I HAT AND COAT RACK, No. 752

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—79— Group 43 Group 43 is composed of projects embracing the groove joint. You will need to be very careful in the use of your try square and knife. If you do not get the joints marked out properly you need not expect good results. Will you saw on the inside or outside of your line? Why? Read directions carefully and follow them. Group 13 GROOVE AND HOUSE JOINT, No. 183 With rule and knife locate all cross lines. Did you lay your rule on edge ? At all places where the board is to be sawed in two the knife line must be on both sides and edges. The lines for the groove should be across the face and about half way across the edges. The depth of the groove should be marked with the gage. In marking the corners for the housed joint use your gage from edge No. 1 all of the time. While the gage is set mark both the corners that are to be cut out and the width of the housing. Follow the same directions in chiseling the groove that you did in making the cross lap joint. In chiseling the housing use your one inch chisel as shown in illustration for chiseling a mortise. Did you remember to saw on the inside of the line when you sawed the groove? Group 43 TABORET, No. 181 This project calls for the making of both the groove and cross lap joints. The bottom pieces are the same width as the post and are cross lapped together.

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1 GROOVE AND HOUSE JOINT, No. 183

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—81— !•$

Group 43 CLOCK SHELF, No. 176 Group 43 BOOK RACK, No. 189 If this project is carefully made you will be pleased with the ap­ pearance of the finished piece. Notice how the bottom board is re­ cessed to receive the end piece. Square the ends of the bottom, mark with a knife for the recess, and chisel with your large chisel. Hold the chisel in a vertical position, with the beveled side out, and cut about half way thru before you reverse the board to cut from the opposite side. The ends should be screwed on to the bottom.

-82—

' END DESIGNS Group 43 STEP LADDER, No. 196 Almost every home should have a step ladder and very few have. This is an excellent problem for the application of the groove joint. The slant of the shelf should be about one inch in three. The legs should be tied with a small rope so they cannot slip. Group 43 FOOT STOOL, No. 73 Notice that the leg slants one and five-eighths inches in eight and one-half inches. Can you set your "T" bevel at this angle? If not your instructor will show you how. You will use your "T" bevel in the place of the try square to fin­ ish top and bottom of the end and in the notch for the rail.

Group 43 PLATE RAIL, No. 94

STEP LADDER, No. 196 IT

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-84— FOOT STOOL, No. 73

PLATE RAIL, No. 94

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-85— Group 44 STOOL, No. 137 Group 44 STOOL, No. 114 Group 44 UMBRELLA STAND, No. 167

STOOL, No. 137

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-86- STOOL, No. 114

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UMBRELLA STAND, No. 167

—87-

"•' Group 50 MORTISE AND TENON, No. 184 The mortise and tenon is the most used joint in furniture and cab­ inet construction. It is a strong concealed joint that every eighth grade boy should know how to chisel and saw. There are several methods of laying out this joint but the one given below should be used in the shops so all will be working together. Directions for sawing a % in. tenon on the end of a •% in. board: Bring stock to width and thickness. Did you mark your working sur­ faces? Measure length of tenon from one end and square a KNIFE line around the board. Why did you keep the beam of the square against the marked surfac?s ? Set the gage at 3/16 in. and gage a hne from side No. 1 on both edges and across the end. Set gags at 9/16 in. and draw lines on both edges and across end from same side. You now have the thickness of the tsnon marked and are ready to saw. Place board on the saw beard and with the back saw cut down to the gage lines on the edges. You must saw on the outside of the knife line but up to it. Not on it or 1/16 in. from it, but hit the "bull's eye" by sawing to it. Saw on both sides of your board. Next place the board in the vise on edge at an angle of about 45 degrees, and with a rip saw, saw down to the knife line on the edgs and across the end. Saw on outside of both gage lines, reverse the board to a perpendicular position in the vise and saw across grain and repeat the process. When you have reached the knife line, raise to the line. Why did you saw from both edges ? You can tell after you have sawed a tenon. You are now ready to bring tenon to the required width. Set gage at 1/2 in. and mark both sides of tenon from edge No. 2. Set gage at 2V2 in. and mark width from the same edge. Place board in vise on edge and saw to the knife line across the edge down to the gage line. Place board in vise at an angle of about 45 degrees and rip to width. Did you rip on the outside of your gage line ? You have now sawed a tenon and are ready to chisel a mortise to receive it. Directions for Chiseling a Mortise: This will be a % in. mortise in a 1V6 in. board. Lay the tenon which you have just cut across the edge of the iyn in. board and mark width of mortise wanted. This should be marked with a knife as you must have a tight fit. These lines should be only about Y> in. long across the center of the board. Use your try square as these lines must be square across the board. Set your gage at % in. and gage a line from side No. 1 between your knife lines. Set gage at % in., which is three-eighths more, and gage second line. 1 ' Use a % in. chisel, begin in the center of the mortise, and take out a chip; continue as shown in illustra­ tion. Use a 14, in. chisel to clean the chips out with. The mortise should be about 1/16 in. deeper than the ten­ on is long. Measure the depth with the rule. Use a wood mallet and not ham­ mer to drive the chisel. Your tenon must fit tight if vou have a good joint. —88— •

MORTISE AND TENON, No. 184

UMBRELLA RACK, No. 95

£4

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—89— Group 51 UMBRELLA RACK, No. 95 This problem will test your work well. The bottom board should have a 5 inch hole sawed in it to receive a drip pan. The cross pieces at the top are cross lapped together and mortised into the post. The tenons are doweled in as well as glued. Group 51 SEWING BOX, No. 177 All holes must be bored square into post or the post will not sit level on floor. All holes for dowels are three-fourths inches deep, but notice that top dowels are seven-eighths shorter than the bottom ones. The top dowels must not be glued in. You must have two strips of cloth from 12 in. to 20 in. wide, with a wide hem in each end long enough to reach from one top dowel down under the bottom dowels and up to top dowel on opposite side. Slip top dowels through hem and put them into the post. This will make you a neat sewing box or basket. Group 51 ROUND TABLE, No. Ill Notice carefully the joint at the top of the post. This is a very strong joint but there are only a few places where it can be used. Ac­ curate measurements are required in this joint. Group 51 HALL TREE, No. 90 SEWING BOX, No. 177 K

-90-

P ROUND TABLE, No. Ill

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HALL TREE, No . 90 1

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-91— Group 51 HALL RACKS, No. 115 Group 51 PEDESTAL, No. 207 The post for the pedestal will call for your best effort or you will have poor joints. The edges of the two center pieces must be square and true. Put several clamps on when you glue. It may be necessary for you to put a finishing nail at the top and bottom of the post to pre­ vent the two inner pieces from slipping when the pressure is applied. Group 51 PEDESTAL, No. 118 This is a difficult piece to lay out if it is not done properly. Square up stock for the upright or post to thickness and length. From work­ ing edge square pencil lines across boards 4 in. from bottom, in the middle, and 3 in. from top end. Be sure to mark both sides of both boards before you change your gage. Set gage at % in. and draw line A. Set gage at 2% in. and draw line B. Set gage at 3% in. and draw line C. Notice that B and C are on top half of one board and bottom half of other. Set gage at 51/4 in. and draw line D. Set gage at 6 in. and draw line E. In ripping out center slot be sure to rip on inside of your line but exactly to it. This is very important. HALL RACKS, No. 115

-92— J PEDESTAL, No. 207

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PEDESTAL, No. 118

Stock £ thick

-93— Group 51 LEG REST, No. 109 Group 51 WOVEN TOP STOOL, No. 138 This is a very artistic stool and is a piece which requires good workmanship. The top is woven with paper fiber and is very serviceable. Group 51 LEG REST, No. 199 The thru mortise must be marked out on both sides. Bore out with a % in. bit and chisel to line. The mortise thru the cross piece for the keys should be cut 11/16 of an inch from the shoulder of the thru tenon. If the key is driven in very tight there is danger of split­ ting the end of the cross piece.

LEG REST, No. 109

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-94— WOVEN TOP STOOL, No. 138 m m m -16- Y -13- T7 I I I I II I I II 1 I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I ITTT 4W f- -f Tenons Ig long •12 4 iA\~ J 41- 4ft

LEG REST, No. 199

—95- Group 51 STOOL, No. 198 Group 51 STOOL, No. 182 Group 51 TABORET, No. 195 The design of the leg is rather hard to lay out unless you make a pattern and mark all from it. The construction is strong and design good. You will fasten the bottom shelf with screws from the under side.

STOOL, No. 198

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-96-

Group 51 IRONING BOARD, No. 193 The length of the leg must be equal to the height of table and the strip between top and clamp must be same thickness as table top. This ironing board will be solid when in use. When not in use fold leg under board. The cut shows the leg on the inside of cross piece when it must be on outside. Group 51 PLANT STAND, No. 178 Group 51 MAGAZINE RACK, No. 97

IRONING BOARD, No. 193

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—98— PLANT STAND, No. 178 8= e

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-A$\" tr MAGAZINE RACK, No. 97

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-99— Group 51 HAT RACK, No. 201 This is a small piece but it requires very careful work to execute. The curved chamfer and pegs will call for your best effort. Square the pegs up in one piece and cut them to required length. Wedge the pegs in from the back side. Will you drive your wedge in a vertical or horizontal position? Why? Group 51 FLOWER BOX, No. 158 The.out sides of box must be planed or the paint will not look smooth. The box may be fastened together with screws or screws and 10- penny box nails. The drawing shows short irons around corners, but it will be better to put a strip all the way around. It should be nailed on with 10-penny box nails. You should drill a number of 14 in. holes through the bottom of the box so surplus water may drain out. Group 51 BOOK RACK, No. 121 Notice that the legs are tapered, and when you saw them out plan to get two out of 5 inch lumber. This will save your time and lumber.

HAT RACK, No. 201. ill

—100— FLOWER BOX, No. 158

TOP VIEW AT A Strap Iron braces-

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BOOK RACK, No. 121

—101— Group 51 POLISHING BOX, No. 186 Doors should open to catch any dust or dirt that is brushed from your shoes. The three-eighths inch dowel hinges must be accurately located or the door will not stand at desired angle when open. Group 51 CAMP CHAIR, No. 96 Group 51 NECKTIE BOX, No. 81 Make the sides and ends 3% in. wide. Before the top and bottom are glued on make gage lines around the ouside of the box % in. and % in. from the top. After the box is glued up, both corners, top and bottom, you are then ready to rip between the gage lines.

POLISHING BOX, No. 186

—102— CAMP CHAIR, No. 96

NECKTIE BOX, No. 81 -5* r • / 1 e Z- T " A yV - i m s • i

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—103- Group 51 WALL CABINET, No. 89 The door construction is very simple. First a thin board is squared up and then strips screwed on to give it a panel effect. The strips are mitered and screwed from the inside. Group 51 WASTE BASKET, No. 67 This waste basket will fit in the corner so nicely that it is more desirable than a square one. The bottom is made of two % in. boards nailed together. The slats are laced together at the top. Group 51 SERVING TRAY, No. 108 Moulding will be furnished and should be cut in miter box.

WALL CABINET. No. 89

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-104— WASTE BASKET, No. 67

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SERVING TRAY, No. 108

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Li W-l ft —105- Group 51 LETTER BOX, No. 61 In sawing groove for glass, place board on bench and clamp an­ other board on top of it even with first groove line. Saw with rip saw to desired depth. Now move top board over the saw kerf just made and reclamp. Measure thickness of your glass before ycu set the clamp. The wood strip at the top should have a tenon sawed on it so it will slip into the groove. Strip should not be nailed in. If glass is broken take strip out and replace glass. Group 51 BREAD BOARD, No. 134 You will use the combination plane to make the groove in the board and the tongue on the edge of end strip. Clamp a block of wood on the edge of the board so the cutter will not split out when it cuts thru. The end strip or binder may be held in the vise while you plane the tongue. You should have a tight fit. Group 51 ICE CARD FRAME, No. 133 It is very annoying to have your ice card blow away and the ice man pass you by. The frame will hold your card and keep it. This joint is a thru mortise and tenon. When you have your gage set mark both ends of all four pieces. Then when you saw the tenon keep on outside of line and for the mor­ tise keep on the inside of your lines. LETTER BOX, No. 61

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-106- J BREAD BOARD, No. 134

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-107- Group 51 ROUND TABLE, No. 172 The top and bottom pieces are cross lapped together and the post mortised into them. Group 51 DROP LEAF TABLE, No. 194 I The drawing is self-explanatory, but this project should not be attempted by boys who have not done excellent work. Group 51 PORCH SWING, No. 203

ROUND TABLE, No. 172

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—108- DROP LEAF TABLE, No. 194

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PORCH SWING, No. 203 -Khl^K Hr—Y DETAIL AT A

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—109—

^^•HMMMMMM Group 51 WORK BENCH, No. 174 A work bench is a very fine asset to the boy's home equipment. This is a good bench and a good workman will have no trouble making it. The post and rails are made of 2x4 yellow pine. The dowel and bolt construction is both strong and easy to make. Group 51 LIBRARY TABLE, No. 170

-110- WORK BENCH, No. 174

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LIBRARY TABLE, No. 170

JOINT CONSTRUCTION DETAIL. AT A'

-111— l