PROJECT FOR THE CONSERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE USE OF THE MESOAMERICAN BARRIER REEF SYSTEM

(MBRS)

Belize – Guatemala – Honduras - Mexico

SAM / MBRS

Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport

December 2005

Project Coordinating Unit

Coastal Resources Multi-Complex Building

Princess Margaret Drive PO Box 93 Belize City, Belize Tel: (501) 223-3895; 223-4561 Fax: (501) 223-4513 E-mail: [email protected] Web page: http://www.mbrs.org.bz Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing

PROLOGUE

The constant degradation of marine and coastal ecosystems creates the urgent need to establish reserves and marine protected areas which allow the conservation of biodiversity as well as improve the living conditions of the human communities which depend directly on them.

Conservation actions related to the establishment of Marine Protected Areas (MPS’s), habitat protection and fishing site closures in the MBRS region have led to socio-economic displacements within human communities that are dependent on exploitation of the resources targeted for conservation. Such circumstances create additional economic constraints on these communities by diminishing the capital resources they have available for investing in sustainable alternative forms of livelihood.

It is precisely for this reason that the MBRS Project promotes both the conservation of marine and coastal resources and supports sustainable development in those coastal communities, whose main source of income is the harvesting of marine resources.

In the search for a balance between conservation and economic sustainability, the MBRS sub- program for Sustainable Management has identified a series of alternatives for economic income to help cushion the vulnerable context in which these coastal communities live. In particular, these alternatives include guide-tourism related activities such as terrestrial wildlife appreciation, , SCUBA diving, sport-fishing and canoeing/kayaking.

For this reason, the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System Project organized and coordinated regional training courses to improve the capacity of marine coastal communities and fisheries associations in the MBRS region to access these alternatives forms of livelihood through training in tour-guiding, business management, and product design, marketing, promotion and diversification. During this training, support material was provided based on existing experiences. This material was enriched by the input from delegates of the two countries (Mexico and Belize) in the MBRS region, which ultimately resulted in the creation of the current document in the form of a manual.

The process involved the participation of local experts who prepared the initial training material, conducted the training, collected the input from the participants and developed the final version of this manual, incorporating the comments of the Project Coordination Unit (PCU.)

The training included case studies, formal presentations, field trips, hand-on experience, participant presentations, assigned reading and dynamic discussions.

With this manual, the MBRS Project reaffirms its commitment to generate support material for the conservation and sustainable use of marine and coastal resources, with the participation of the different sectors of civil society, community-base organizations and non-governmental organizations, promoting sustainable alternative forms of livelihood.

It is our intention that this tool be used in similar training courses and serve as a guide in the training of marine tour guides in the various countries of the Mesoamerican region. In so doing, it will strengthen the efforts to conserve biological diversity as well as foster community development by increasing the economic benefits to coastal communities in the MBRS region.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

PROLOGUE i

UNIT 1: INTRODUCTION 1

UNIT 2: TOUR GUIDING RESPONSIBILITIES AND ETHICS 3

UNIT 3: EQUIPMENT CARE AND MAINTENANCE 4 3.1 Tips 4 3.2 Care and Maintenance 5 3.3 Other Fishing Tackle Tips 5

UNIT 4: REEF FISHING EQUIPMENT 7 4.1 Personal gear 7 4.2 General boat gear 7 4.3 Rod and Reels 7 4.4 General tackle 10 4.5 Terminal tackle 10

UNIT 5: FISHING 12 5.1 12 5.2 13 5.3 Uni-Knot system 13 5.4 Trilene knot 18 5.5 Snell knot 19 5.6 Jansik knot 20 5.7 Palmar knot 21 5.8 Improved 22 5.9 Offshore Swivel knot 22

UNIT 6: EQUIPMENT 24 6.1 Personal gear 24 6.2 General boat gear 24 6.3 General tackle 25 6.4 Terminal tackle 25 6.5 Rod and Reels 25 6.6 Saltwater flies 26

UNIT 7: EQUIPMENT 31 7.1 Personal gear and clothing 31 7.2 General boat gear 31 7.3 General tackle 32 7.4 Rod and Reels 32 7.5 Selecting Rod, Reels and flies 33 7.6 Permit and bonefish flies 35 7.7 Tarpon flies 40

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UNIT 8: FLY FISHING KNOTS 43 8.1 45 8.2 Surgeon knot loop 45 8.3 Double loop 49 8.4 Albright special knot 51 8.5 Homer Rhode loop knot 52

UNIT 9: SPORT OF THE MBRS 56 9.1 Game 56 9.2 Pelagic fishes 58 9.3 Groupers 61 9.4 Jacks 63 9.5 Snappers 66

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UNIT 1. INTRODUCTION

COURSE GOALS AND GENERAL OBJECTIVES

The Mesoamerican Reef Barrier System (MBRS), which extends from Isla Contoy on the north of the Yucatán Peninsula to the Bay islands of Honduras, is recognized, in the Western Hemisphere for its uniqueness due to its length, diversity of reef types and associated species. The MBRS is also an invaluable resource for its socioeconomic important to the adjacent local communities. Within the MBRS, over 60 areas have been declared Marine Protected Areas (MPA) with different management regimes.

Many of the conservation actions related to the establishment of Marine Protected Areas, habitat protection and the closure of fishing sites, generally lead to socio-economic displacements that affect the human communities that depend on the very resources they want to conserve.

It is precisely for this reason that the MBRS Project promotes both the conservation of marine and coastal resources and supports sustainable development in those coastal communities, whose main source of income is the harvesting of marine resources. In attempting to balance both actions, a series of alternatives sources of income have been identified to mitigate the vulnerable situation in which coastal communities live. Such vulnerability is having an impact on the available capital, the ability to further generate or utilize such capital and consequently, on the options for feasible livelihoods.

The present course is framed within the goal of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System Project to enhance the protection of the unique and vulnerable marine ecosystems comprising the MBRS.

The general objective is to promote measures which will serve to reduce non-sustainable patterns of economic exploitation of the MBRS, focusing initially on the fisheries and tourism sectors; .

THE SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES WILL BE THE FOLLOWING:

1. To outline, analyze, contrast and compare different successful methodologies used in training that relate to sustainable livelihoods throughout the region in order to extract learning experiences for application and identify successful training programs. 2. To design and prepare training package for the tourism-related courses including: Nature guiding, snorkeling, recreational diving, sportfishing, canoeing, business management, marketing and promotion. 3. To train a minimum of twenty representatives of the four countries in the MBRS region taking into account the need for such representatives to begin these activities as alternative sources of income. 4. To take responsibility for receiving the equipment, its care, its maintenance, collecting the symbolic rent and administering the funds generated by such rent.

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COURSE STRUCTURE, METHODS AND LANGUAGE

The course was delivered in a workshop format with interaction opportunities for the participants. Most of the information presented by the facilitator was enriched with the participant’s experiences.

Since the course emphasized practical specialized training, and special attention was paid to the need of training methods for adult education and communication skills for fishers, the methods used demonstrated suggested strategies such as role playing, hand-on experience, small group discussions and the participants were required to use them in their exercises. Over all, the participants were exposed to: 1) slide presentations, 2) group discussions, 3) small group exercises, 4) lectures and 5) participants’ presentations.

Given the social nature of the MBRS region, the course was conducted in English and Spanish.

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UNIT 2: TOUR GUIDING RESPONSIBILITIES AND ETHICS

As a guide, you are responsible for many things. It’s no easy task- there are many things you will need to deal with all at once. Some of your most important responsibilities are to: • Insure the safety of your guests at all times • Provide a professional level of service and be courteous and friendly • Provide quality and accurate information • Provide an opportunity to learn about the cultures, history, and environment of Belize in an informative, educational, and meaningful way • Serve as a role model on how to conserve the natural resources and behave in the cultures of Belize • Deliver all activities in a timely and professional manner • Work cooperatively with other parts of the tourism industry

As a tour guide, it is your job to be professional and provide a quality service to your guests. Part of doing this is maintaining a high ethical standard. One of the best ways to do this is to always be honest with your guests. It’s better to tell them you don’t know the answer to a question then to make one up and have them find out you lied. It’s also important to tell guests accurate information about what the trip will be like, how long it will take, and what kind of conditions they will find along the way. Some tourism related businesses give commissions to tour guides that bring their guests to their gift shops, restaurants, or other facilities. It is unethical to force going to these places on your guests. They should only go where they want to go and to scheduled places on the trip. It is also unethical to tell guests it is your birthday, ask them to help you with family expenses, or put up signs saying tips are expected in order to get tips. Guests do not have to tip you and you should not expect to be tipped. You also should not “steal” guests from other tour guides, tour operators, or tour suppliers. If you offer deals on the side or for a better rate, you cause problems of trust throughout the tourism industry. It’s very important that you do not drink, use drugs, or get romantically involved with your guests.

Your guests will look to you to know how to behave during the tour. If they see you picking up wildlife and touching coral even though you are not supposed to, they will do it too. This will destroy our natural resources- the very ones we depend on for our income as tour guides. So, you should be a model of conservation. To do this successfully, you must first gain your guests interest and attention in the environment of Belize. You should reinforce conservation messages through briefing that describe what behaviors are expected of the guests before they begin an activity. Being a model of conservation also means correcting a guest if they are doing something that is damaging in a professional manner. You can also “reduce reuse and recycle” in your daily activities through using washable plates and use local food suppliers and local businesses to fill your needs. You should convey a message of ecotourism to your guests by having guidelines that prevent negative environmental and cultural impacts and that support the local economy directly.

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UNIT 3: EQUIPMENT CARE AND MAINTAINANCE

FISHING TACKLE TIPS

Maintenance of your fishing reel, rod and line can help extend the life of your fishing equipment and make for a smooth day fishing to haul in that "reel" big fish. Tips compliments of Ande Monofilament.

Sure Your Fishing Reel Is Working Smoothly The drag system is extremely important in fighting fish of any size. It is a complicated mechanism that should be serviced at least once a year. When a reel is not being used, the drag should be backed off. When fishing, the drag setting (at the strike position) should be 25% of the line's breaking strength. For example, an outfit spooled with 20 pound test line would have a strike drag set at five pounds. Obviously, this setting can be increased once the fish is hooked, but should never exceed 50% of the line's breaking strength. Many fish are lost and lines "popped", due to too much drag. Furthermore, line often gets caught inside the spool on conventional reels. To compensate for this, occasionally check the unit's screws for tightness. However, should the problem occur, strip off the frayed line and retie.

After saltwater use, rinse rod, reel and lures with a mild mist of freshwater. Do not use a high pressure spray on reels. It will only force the salt into crevices. After the reels have dried, spray them with a light lubricant, such as CRC-6-56, making certain to avoid the line. Remember a drag should always be smooth, not jerky. As a fish takes line, the rod should not bounce up and down but stay steady and solid.

Protecting Your Considering the expectations of monofilament fishing line, and the abuse it's subject to, it is amazing what this "thin" material will do. But, to get the most out of any monofilament, we must protect it from certain negative elements. Listed below are a few "mono checks" that, when followed properly, will put more fish on the table. We will start with the reel and work towards the hook.

Putting Monofilament Line on Your Fishing Reel Most tackle stores are happy to spool up your reel, particularly those who have a line winding machine. If you have the time, and they have the quality line you want, let them do it.

When you're spooling up a bait reel, or any conventional reel, put a rod, or even a pencil, through the center of the line spool. Tie the line to the reel with a (Uni-knot or Arbor knot) clipping off the tag end. Snug the knot to the reel spool. One person should reel while another holds both ends of the rod, applying pressure as the line is reeled onto the spool. Fill to about an 1/8 inch from the spool's outer rim. Keep the line away from anything that could cause abrasion.

Use the same procedure with a spinning reel, but reel line so that it comes off the end of the spool. After 15 or 20 turns, if a twist occurs, the spool over and continue to fill the reel.

Monofilament will twist. If it happens while fishing from a boat, play the line out with nothing on the end, behind the boat for about five minutes. It is also important to always use a ball- bearing swivel, which will reduce or eliminate line twist. Certain lures or bait tied directly to the line will invite twist. To compensate for this, try lighter line. Just for your own education and

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Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing enjoyment, go down in line test. You will be surprised that you can catch big fish on line much lighter than you are presently using. It may take more patience and even a little more skill, but you will enjoy it. If fish stop biting, go to a lighter test. The thinner line may get them eating again. The thinner the line, the less likely a fish sees it.

CARE AND MAINTAINANCE

Care of Guides The guides on your rods must be checked and kept free of any abrasive areas. Pull a strip of pantyhose through the rod guides to check for snags, or a cotton tipped swab. Saltwater will wreak havoc with roller guides. Inspect them before and after each trip. When trolling, make sure the line is not wrapped around a guide.

Care of Fishing Line Always check the line for nicks or frazzles or areas of abrasion that will cause a weakness. After every fishing trip, or after playing out a nice fish, cut off approximately ten feet of line and retie, if you have reason to believe it may have been frayed. This is very important.

When fighting a decent fish, in fresh or saltwater, three things can happen: (1) the fish goes deep, pulling the line across rocks, logs or other hard objects, (2) the fish is big and the line will rub across its body or tail, and (3) other things, such as the boat, a jetty, surface objects or dock, or even other fish in the area, may bump into your line. All three factors will cause abrasion, eventually prompting the line to break. The easiest solution is to cut off the weak line and retie.

Quality monofilament that has not come in contact with the above items does not need to be totally replaced. (We have had saltwater charter boat captains catch over 20 Blue Marlin without respooling new Ande monofilament.) So, if you check your reel's drag system, your rod guides and cut away line that may be damaged, we guarantee you will catch more fish. Take the time...it is worth it.

Other Fishing Tackle Tips Tip: Monofilament can be damaged by excess exposure to direct sunlight. Keep your equipment in a dry, shaded area. Fishing on a hot summer day is fine. Keeping your rods in a hot car trunk, or exposed to direct sunlight in the back seat, is not recommended.

Tip: Always use a well balanced outfit. This means the rod, reel, line and lure should be made for each other. Do not load a light outfit with a heavy line. Conversely, do not throw a huge lure with a light outfit.

Tip: More rods are broken in car doors, house doors or through poor storage. Do not let rod tips bang all over your boat.

Tip: Always rinse rods with freshwater. Periodically remove reels and lubricate reel seats with CRC-6-56.

Tip: Remember, proper maintenance, balance, storage and handling are imperative in taking care of the equipment that takes care of you.

Tip: Store all bulk line in a cool, dark place. Direct sunlight will damage monofilament over a period of time.

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Tip: Always store your reels with the drag set at no tension (free spool) or as low as it can go. This will prevent flat spots on drag material. You can set the clicker to “On” to prevent the reel from turning and line unwinding.

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UNIT 4: REEF FISHING EQUIPMENT

PERSONAL GEAR Most gear, clothing and miscellaneous tackle you use for other fishing will serve you well in reef fishing such as polarized sunglasses, long-brimmed hats, protective footgear and sunblock. Other items such as tackle packs, boat bags, rain gear, and fast-drying clothing, while not essential, can make life more comfortable and productive.

GENERAL BOAT GEAR

For most reef fishing tours a 25 ft fiberglass skiff with a deep draft is required. Your boat should be equipped with a Bimini top and comfortable seating. Other items that are essential to have on your boat include: A 15 lbs Anchor with 100 ft of anchor rope Pole Live bait well Ice Cooler with ice and water Caste net Rod Holders Life vests gaff All Licenses including boat license from port authority, tour guide license, and park license.

ROD & REELS Your boat should be equipped with an assortment of intermediate Rod & Reels. It is recommended that you have 8, 12, 16, 20 lbs test line for fishing snappers, barracudas, jacks, sailfish and kingfish.

Bait Casting Reels The best quality is its exactness and precision when casting lures. Reel is set on top of the base of the rod. It is not for long casts but for short precision casting.

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Trolling Reels These larger reels with more line capacity are used for trolling/dragging behind the boat. They are not good for casting.

Terminal Tackle: Jigs The following list is a recommendation of items that should be included in your tackle box: Hooks: An assortment of hooks, size #1,2,3,4. Triple hooks Lures (assortment of floating)

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Terminal Tackle: Lures Live Lure Darter Lures

Floating Lures Trolling Lures

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General Tackle The following list is a recommendation of items that should be included in your general tackle: Tackle box Swivels 40-100 lbs test Wire leaders 20,40,60 lbs test Crimps Crimping pliers Tape measure Knife and file

Terminal Tackle: Swivels, Leaders, Crimps & Hooks

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UNIT 5: FISHING KNOTS

Bowline Knot This is the best knot for a boatman to know. Memorize this sentence and tying your bowline is easy. "The Fox thru the hole, around the tree, and back thru the hole." Sure Your Fishing Reel Is Working Smoothly

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The Improved Clinch Knot

The Improved Clinch Knot

1. An old standby for fishermen. Pass the line through the eye of hook, swivel or lure. Double back and make 5 turns around the standing line.

Hold the coils in place; thread end of line through the first loop above the eye, then through the big loop as shown. 2. Hold the tag end and standing line while coils are pulled up. Take care that coils are in spiral, not lapping over each other. Slide tight against the eye. Clip tag end.

The Uni-Knot System

Uni-Knot --- Joining 2 Lines (of Similar Diameter)

1. Overlap ends of two lines of about the same diameter for about 6".

Take one end, and form the Uni-Knot circle, crossing the two lines about midway of the overlapped distance.

2. Tie the Uni-Knot, making six turns around the two lines (leaving the loop free).

3. Pull the tag end to form a snug knot

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tight around the line.

4. Use the loose end of the overlapped line to tie another Unit-Knot as shown above and pull snug.

5. Pull the two standing lines in opposite directions to slide the knots together. Pull as tightly as possible and snip ends close to nearest coil.

Uni-Knot --Joining Shock Leader to Line

1. When the leader is 5 times or more the pound/test of the line, double ends of both the leader and line back about 6". Slip the loop of the line through loop of leader far enough to permit tying a Uni-Knot around both strands of leader.

2. With doubled line, tie Uni-Knot around the two strands of leader. Use only four turns.

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3. Put finger through loop of line and grasp both tag end and standing line to pull knot snug around loop of leader.

4. With one hand, pull the standing leader (not both strands). With other hand pull both strands of line (see arrows). Pull slowly until the knot slides to end of leader loop and all slippage is gone.

Uni-Knot --- Joining Leader to Fishing Line

Tie on leader of no more than four times the pound /test of the line.

1. Double the end of the line and overlap it with the leader for about 6". Make a Uni-circle with the doubled line.

2. Tie the basic Uni-Knot, making three turns with the line loop around the two lines and the leader line.

Pull it snug up.

3. Now tie another Uni-Knot to the left side with the leader around the double line. Again, use only three turns.

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4. Pull the knots together as tightly as possible.

Trim ends and loop.

Uni-Knot --- Double Line Shock Leader

1. As a replacement for the Bimini Twist or Spider Hitch, first clip off an amount of line needed for length of loop desired. Tie the two ends together with an .

2. Double end of the standing line and overlap 6" with knotted end of loop piece. Tie Uni-Knot with tied loop around doubled standing line, making 4 turns.

3. Now tie Uni-Knot with doubled standing line around loop piece. Again, make

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4 turns.

4. Hold both strands of doubled line in one hand, both strands of loop in other hand. Pull knots together until they barely touch.

5. Tighten by pulling both strands of loop piece, but only the main strand of standing line. Trim off both loop tag ends, which eliminates the Overhand knot.

Uni-Knot --- Tying Fishing Line To Terminal Tackle

1. Run the line through the eye of hook, swivel or lure at least 6" and fold to make 2 parallel lines.

Bring the end of line back in a circle toward the hook or lure. 2. Make 6 turns with tag end around the double line.

Pass tag end through the circle.

Hold the double line at a point where

it passes through the eye and pull the tag end to snug up the turns.

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3. Now pull the standing line to slide the knot up against the eye. 4. Continue pulling until the knot is tight. Trim tag end flush with closest coil of knot. The uni-knot will not slip.

The Trilene Fishing Knot The Trilene Knot is a strong reliable connection that resists slippage and premature failures. The Trilene Knot is an all-purpose connection to be used in joining monofilament to swivels, snaps, hooks and artificial lures. The knot's unique design and ease of tying yield consistently strong, dependable connections while retaining 85-90% of the original line strength. The double wrap of mono through the eyelet provides a protective cushion for added safety.

Trilene Knot --- Joining Monofilament to Tackle

1. Run the end of line through eye of hook or lure and double back through the eye a second time.

2. Loop around the standing part of line 5 or 6 times.

3. Thread the tag end back between the eye and the coils as shown.

4. Pull up tight and trim the tag end.

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The Snell Fishing Knot The Snell Knot provides a strong connection when fishing with bait and using a separate length of leader. You can only use a Snell Knot with a leader.

SNELL KNOT

1. Insert one end of the leader through the hook's eye, extending 1 to 2 inches past the eye.

Insert the other end of the leader through the eye in the opposite direction pointing toward the barb of the hook.

Hold the hook and leader ends between your thumb and forefinger of left hand. Leader will hang below the hook in a large loop.

2. Take the part of the large lower loop that is closest to the eye and wrap it over the hook shank and both ends of the leader toward the hook's barb.

3. Continue to wrap for 7 or 8 turns and hold wraps with left hand. Grip the end of the leader that is through the eyelet with your right hand and pull it slowly and steadily. Hold the turns with your left hand or the knot will unravel.

When knot is almost tight, slide it up against the eye of the hook. Grip the short end lying along the shank of the hook with a pair of pliers. Pull this end and the standing line at the same time to completely tighten the knot.

The Jansik Knot The Jansik knot is a strong knot. The Jansik Special Knot is a popular knot with muskie .

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The Jansik Knot

1. Run about five inches of line through the eye of or .

Bring it around in a circle and run it through again.

2. Make a second circle, parallel with the first and pass the end of the line through the fishing hook eye a third time.

3. Bend the standing part of the line around the two circles.

Bring tag end around in a third circle and wrap it three times around the three parallel lines.

4. Hold the fish hook, swivel or fishing lure with pliers.

Hold the standing line with other hand and hold the tag end in teeth. Pull all three to tighten. (Arrows identify standing line.)

The The Palomar Knot is easy to tie correctly, and consistently the strongest knot known to hold terminal tackle.

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The PALOMAR KNOT - For Joining Line To A Fish Hook

1. Double about 4" of line and pass the loop through the eye of fishing hook.

2. Let the fishing hook hang loose, and tie an overhand knot in the doubled line.

Avoid twisting the lines and do NOT tighten the knot.

3. Pull the loop end of the line far enough to pass it over the hook, swivel or lure.

Make sure the loop passes completely over the attachment.

4. Pull both the tag end and the standing line until the knot is tightened. Clip off the tag end of the fishing line.

The Improved Blood Knot The Improved Blood Knot is used for tying two pieces of monofilament together of relatively equal diameters.

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IMPROVED BLOOD KNOT

1. Overlap the ends of your two strands that are to be joined.

Twist them together about 10 turns.

2. Separate one of the center twists and thrust the two ends through the space as shown.

3. Pull the knot together and trim off the short ends.

The Offshore Swivel Knot The Offshore swivel knot is used for attaching a swivel or snap to a double-line leader.

Offshore Swivel Knot --- (Attaching swivel or snap to double-line leader)

1. Slip the loop end of double-line leader through the eye of swivel. Rotate the loop end a half-turn to put a single twist between loop and swivel eye.

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2. Pass the loop with the twist over the swivel. Hold the end of the loop, plus both legs of the double-line leader with one hand. Let the swivel slide to other end of double loops now formed.

3. Still holding the loop and lines with one hand, use your other hand to rotate the swivel through center of both loops, at least six times.

4. Continue holding both legs of the double-line leader tightly, but release the end of loop. Pull on the swivel and the loops will begin to gather.

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UNIT 6: SPIN FISHING EQUIPMENT

PERSONAL GEAR Most gear, clothing and miscellaneous tackle you use for other fishing will serve you well in spin fishing such as polarized sunglasses, long-brimmed hats, protective footgear and sunblock. Other items such as tackle packs, boat bags, rain gear, and fast-drying clothing, while not essential, can make life more comfortable and productive.

GENERAL BOAT GEAR

For most spin fishing tours a 23 ft fiberglass skiff with a shallow draft is required. Your boat should be equipped with a large deck and comfortable seating. Other items that are essential to have on your boat include: A 15 lbs Anchor with 100 ft of anchor rope Pole Poling platform (optional) Live bait well Ice Cooler with ice and water Caste net Rod Holders Life vests Catch and release gaff All Licenses including boat license from port authority, tour guide license, and park license. Rod & Reels (light spinning) 4,6,8 lbs test for bonefish and permit Rod & Reels (intermediate) 12,16,20 lbs test for tarpon and other species

Reels

Spinning Casting Spinning

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General Tackle and Other Accessories The following is a recommended list of items necessary for conducting spin fishing tours: Tackle box Swivels 40-100 lbs test Monofilament tippet materials 8,20, 40, 80 lbs test Wire leaders 20, 40, 60 lbs test Crimps Boat bag Flies (4-5 boxes) Tippet spools (4-6 spools) Leaders Nippers Hook sharpener Crimping pliers Insect repellent Binocular Tape measure Swiss army knife Water bottle Camera Lunch or snack

Terminal Tackle: Bonefish Jigs You terminal tackle should include the following items: Hooks #1 for bonefish and permit Hooks #2,3 for tarpon Lures (assortment of intermediate & floating) Fresh bait (shrimp, hermit crab, conch) for bonefish and permit Live bait (sardines) for tarpon, barracuda, jacks and snook

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Saltwater Flies @ The Fly Shop®

Striper/Albacore Clouser Saltwater Clouser American River Clouser Perfect when fish are on smaller Recommended for anything that Striper fly, but has the markings baitfish. swims. and colors that no predatory fish Size 2 (#509F) Sizes 1/0,2 (#504F) can resist. Olive or Gray. Size 1/0 (#149F)

Sar-Mul-Mac Clouser Half & Half Sea Habit Bucktail Time-tested favorite for stripers Versatile hybrid that works Superb fly for salmon and and blues. Mullet (white) or everywhere. Chartreuse, Blue or anything else in the salt. Sardine Anchovy (blue). Gray. or Anchovy. Size 3/0 (#308F) Size 1/0 (#540F) Size 2/0 (#337F)

Whitlock's Deep Baitfish Striper Caviar Emmons Yak Fly A favorite of ours for Redfish, Awesome striper bug! Fresh or Highly touted, new off-shore Peacock Bass, Tarpon and salt. pattern. assorted red fish. Size 2/0 (#393F) Size 2/0 (#133F) Size 1/0 (#327F)

Lefty's Deceiver Tropical Punch R.M. Flatsides Blue, Gray or Chartreuse. Blanton's all-around, all-species Great when tarpon or any Size 3/0 (#294F) attractor. bluewater fish are foraging on

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Size 2/0 (#291F) small baitfish. Size 2/0 (#553F)

Glades Minnow Mylar Minnow Shallow Water Clouser All around, shallow water, Florida Another great Christmas Island Lightweight alloy eyes and a baitfish and excellent forage fish pattern that effectively imitates weedless design ease these flies pattern. baby milkfish. through skinny water. Size 4 (#562F) Size 6 (#520F) Chartreuse, Grey or Tan. Size 6 (#285F)

Salty Muggers Darter Clouser Perch Sand Shrimp Good for everything that eats Another great forage fly, provides Redfish can't keep away from this baitfish. Red/White or non-stop action for redfish and hot fly brought to us by experts Chartreuse/White. muddling bones. in the Gulf. Size 1 (#154F) Size 4 (#141F) Size 4 (#394F)

Dorsey's Kwan Chernobyl Redfisher No Wimp Shrimp Tan or Chartreuse. A mutant fly that catches tough Everything eats this translucent Size 4 (#744F) redfish. tidbit. Size 4 (#636F) Size 4 (#130F)

Cave's Rattling Minnow Cave's Wobbler Hamilton Spoon Redfish and peacock bass can't Red Hot Texas Gulf redfish Adaptation of a standard keep away from this noisemaker. pattern. conventional tackle staple that is Size 1 (#320F) Size 2 (#318F) deadly for red drum.

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Size 2 (#831F)

Borski's Fur Shrimp Berke's Juvineel Ragin' Craven One of the best flies to use when Good for stripers, albacore, Permit, big bones and redfish all bones are darting after migrating barracuda, tarpon and various fall for this non-descript, sandy shrimp. flats and red fish. bottom fly. Size 4 (#263F) Size 2 (#121F) Size 2 (#137F)

Big Boy Trevally Popper Waller Pearly Poppers Awesome trevally popper in Tahiti and the South Great for any saltwater top feeders. Green or Pacific. Blue. Size 2/0 (#527F) Size 2/0 (#353F)

Enrico's Flex Poppers Tiger Poppers The mid-fly hinge adds realistic action to this Chartreuse/Orange or Chartreuse/White. super bluewater popper. White or Chartreuse. Size 2/0 (#757F) Size 1/0 (#761F)

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Crease Fly Saltwater Gurgler Catches any mid-sized ocean going fish. Blue, Works well for trevally and nails baby tarpon. Olive or Black. Red/White, Green/White or Black. Size 1/0 (#829F) Size 1/0 (#437F)

Snookaroo Whitlock's Swimming Baitfish Terrific for shallow and deep-water snook. Terrific cripple imitation for all predator saltwater Red/White or Chartreuse. gamefish. Redhead, Yellow or Shad. Size 3/0 (#325F) Size 1/0 (#293F)

Puglisi Floating Baitfish Black Velvet Eel Slider Acts like a wounded baitfish and attracts predators Reports from the East Coast indicate this is THE from all directions! night striper fly! Size 2/0 (#505F) Size 2/0 (#125F)

Candy Eel Velvet Eel This is a great surf fly for cruising fish. Life-like motion and accurate profile of the velvet Size 1/0 (#351F) tubing material drives stripers and blues crazy! Size 1/0 (#319F)

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Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing

EP Glass Minnow Albie Anchovy Albacore Bay Anchovy Another perfect little fly for false The best fly we found for False Just slip up to a group of feeding albies. Tan or Olive. Albacore. albies and toss this fly their way. Size 1 (#211F) Size 6 (#526F) Then hold on. Size 2 (#541F)

Enrico's Pilchard Puglisi's Blueback Puglisi Peanut Butter An easy-to-cast, all purpose Herring Size 2/0 (#506F) saltwater fly. Very popular for bluefish and Size 2/0 (#635F) tuna. Size 2/0 (#512F)

Everglades Special Bronze Mullet Peacock Bass Bait A great juvenile tarpon fly Snook, tarpon, stripers and blues Superb Central and South everywhere. eat it. American fly. Size 2/0 (#764F) Size 3/0 (#483F) Size 2/0 (#763F)

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Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing

UNIT 7: FLY FISHING EQUIPMENT

PERSONAL GEAR Most gear, clothing and miscellaneous tackle you use for other fishing will serve you well in fly fishing such as polarized sunglasses, long-brimmed hats, protective footgear and sunblock. Other items such as tackle packs, boat bags, rain gear, and fast-drying clothing, while not essential, can make life more comfortable and productive.

GENERAL BOAT GEAR

For most fly fishing tours a 23 ft fiberglass skiff with a shallow draft is required. Your boat should be equipped with a large deck and comfortable seating. Other items that are essential to have on your boat include: A 15 lbs Anchor with 100 ft of anchor rope Pole Poling platform (optional) Live bait well Ice Cooler with ice and water Rod Holders Life vests Catch and release gaff All Licenses including boat license from port authority, tour guide license, and park license.

ROD AND REELS Your boat should be equipped with an assortment of Rod & Reels for fly fishing. It is recommended that you have the following Rod and Reels: • 8-weight Fly Rod & Reels with floating line for bonefish • 9-weight Fly rod & reel with floating line for barracuda, permit, snooks and small tarpon • 10-weight Fly Rod & Reel with floating line or intermediate line for tarpon and jacks

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Reels

General Tackle and Accessories The following is a recommended list of items necessary for conducting spin fishing tours: Boat bag Flies (4-5 boxes) Tippet spools (4-6 spools) Leaders Nippers Hook sharpener Crimping pliers Floating lines Sink-tip fly lines Intermediate fly lines Insect repellent Binocular

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Tape measure Swiss army knife Camera Water bottle Lunch or snack

The Abel Perfect Tool holds virtually everything an angler might need for a day on the water or an extended trip. Instruments contained within the Abel Perfect Tool include:

• A nail knot tying tool • Precision clipper/nippers • Bodkin (a needle used as a knot or backlash remover or to clear a clogged hook eye) • Scissors • Hook hone • Knife blade • Bottle opener • Lanyard ring • 3/8ths, 11/16ths and 5/16ths box wrenches • Metric and inch scales

SELECTING RODS, REELS AND FLIES

Bonefish Rods A 7 to 8 weight rod is ideal for bonefish. These weights allow the angler the power to adequately deal with wind, while still providing the finesse to present the fly as delicately as possible.

Reels The reel that you plan to fish for bones with should be a disk drag reel with a capacity of 200 yards of 20 pound backing. While this may seem excessive to those new to our sport, veteran anglers both understand this necessity and embrace it. Because Belizean waters are so rich and varied in terms of species, it would be a shame to be fishing for bones with 100 yards of backing on your reel, only to encounter a 25-pound permit on the flat you are wading.

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Flies The best flies that you can use are between size 6 and 8. To be sure, a variety of different sized flies are important and it’s good to have a healthy mix of sizes, including some large ones. Overall however, the smaller sized bonefish flies will produce more fish. You will encounter a variety of fishing situations and bottom surfaces. White sand, light and dark brown coral, as well as lush turtle grass beds, will all dictate the both the colours and sink rates of the flies that you should be using.

Tarpon

Rods For juvenile tarpon in the 20 to 50 pound class, a 9 or 10-weight rod will work nicely. When the larger tarpon (100+lbs) start to show up in the spring, you need a rod in the 11 to 12 weight class.

Reels The small to medium sized tarpon require a smooth disk drag reel with a capacity of 300 yards of 30 pound backing. You can get away with a reel that holds less line but you then run the risk of losing a good sized tarpon that may show up and take your fly. For the larger fish in the 100 pound + category, you’ll need a reel with 400 yards of 30 pound backing. This may seem excessive, but when you consider that the Belizean record for tarpon on a fly was set at just a hair under 200 pounds, it’s far better to be safe that sorry.

Flies By far the most effective size for tarpon flies is a pattern tied on a 3/0 saltwater hook. Larger flies will work for bigger fish, especially in specific situations (like when the tarpon are motionless just under the water level) but overall it’s quite amazing how smaller flies will consistently take very large fish. For the smaller tarpon, hooks ranging in size from 2 to 2/0 are highly recommended.

Snook Rods Belize is blessed with some pretty big snook so you’ll need an 8 to 10 weight rod to have a fighting chance. Aside from the size of the snook, you’ll also need an 8 to 10 weight rod in order to help muscle the snook out of the mangroves, which are its favourite location in which to ambush prey.

Reels You’ll need a good (smooth) disk drag reel with 200 yards of 20 pound backing. And while all but the biggest snook will not come close to getting that far into your backing, medium sized tarpon will often frequent the same area, and it’s therefore a good idea to be prepared for a couple of possibilities.

Flies Bright colours are by far the most effective for snook flies. Yellow, yellow and red, and yellow and black are very productive, whether your casting blindly to snook along the mangroves or running your fly across sand and grass flats where snook will be hiding in the depressions. If

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you’re tying your own flies, it pays to use longer hooks so that you can create a bulkier fly, which better resembles a good meal for the snook. And make sure to add eyes to the flies that you’re tying as this small addition will make a huge difference in your strike rate. Because you’ll often be fishing for snook in areas of thick vegetation, using a weedless fly like a bendback, or flies with weed guards, makes a lot of sense. Surface Poppers can work well but I’m of the opinion that streamers are the most effective flies for snook.

Permit Rods The average permit in Belize will weigh between 12 and 16 pounds. The ideal fly rod when targeting permit, is either a 9 or a 10 weight. These weights will allow the angler to cover the broad size spectrum that this challenging fish comes in. These rods will also allow the fly rodder to cast the often bulky crab flies that a 7 or 8 weight simply isn’t designed for.

Reels The unique oblong shape of the permit, along with its oversized fork tail, allows the fish to generate a great deal of power. When you add a dose of fear to the permit, which happens when the fish realizes that it’s hooked, the permit has to be the strongest fish, pound for pound, that swims in the ocean. To ensure that you won’t lose the fish once it’s hooked, especially if the permit is over 20 pounds, you need disk drag reel with at least 250 yards of 20 pound backing. To watch a good sized permit make run after run, is a very special thrill for even the most experienced angler. The drag system is critical and must be absolutely smooth throughout the long runs that a decent sized permit will make. If the drag jerks, even just a small amount, your permit is as good as gone.

Flies You’ve got to “match the hatch” by offering to the permit, flies that are the size of the crabs that it will normally encounter while feeding on the flats. This means flies tied on size 4-8 saltwater hooks.

Permit & Bonefish Flies @ The Fly Shop®

Bauers Fur Crab Del's Permit Crab Raghead Crab The Fly Shop's favorite permit World record holder! The top The numero uno fly in Mexico and crab. Tan or Olive. choice among most permit Belize. Tan or Olive. Size 4 (#272F) anglers. Lead Eyes. Sizes 2,6 (#275F) Size 2 (#279F)

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Swimming Crab McCrab Senor Raghead Ascension Bay experts won't This lifelike crab began the The newest generation of the leave home without a fist full of revolution in new and effective incredibly effective Yucatan and these popular flies. permit patterns. Belizean permit fly. Size 6 (#402F) Size 4 (#278F) Size 2 (#827F)

Secret Crab Tan Secret Crab Brown Fleeing Crab Terrific over light colored bottoms The secret is out about this Crustacean found on every for both permit and bonefish. dynamite permit fly. Meant to be bonefish menu. Realistic motion Size 4 (#400FT) cast well ahead of the fish and of the legs beckons strikes. retrieved very slowly or not at all. Size 6 (#566F) Size 4 (#400FB)

Blue Crab White Sand Fleeing Crab Enrico Puglisi Crab One of the finest new bonefish Great choice over light colored The proper first choice for dark and permit flies. bottoms. bottoms. Olive. Size 6 (#565F) Size 2 (#405F) Size 4 (#647F)

Palometa Crab Turneffe Crab Bonecrusher Great fly for Mexican Yucatan Standout pattern designed for the Bonefish move quickly to this permit. Tan or Olive. marl of central and southern perfect flats profile. Size 6 (#567F) Belize. Olive or Cream. Size 6 (#646F) Size 6 (#273F)

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Mangrove Critter Spawning Shrimp Popovic's Ultra Shrimp Tim Borski's amazing catch-all Another effective new addition to This realistic imitation makes a crab pattern, it's productive the flats fly fishing arsenal from fool of bonefish, permit and everywhere. Weedless. the Florida Keys. Pearl. redfish. Size 1/0 (#274F) Size 4 (#261F) Sizes 1/0,4 (#286F)

Mantis Shrimp Magnum Mantis Shrimp Mini Mantis Shrimp Works well when retrieved Everything eats these swimming These adolescent shrimp are quickly, and is an especially good sirloins. Must-haves for Belizean particularly effective for the mid- fly over heavy coral bottom. Olive permit and Bahamian Bones. size bones of the Mexican or Orange. Olive, Orange or Tan. Yucatan. Blonde or Olive. Size 2 (#403F) Size 4 (#516F) Size 6 (#568F)

Permit & Bonefish Flies @ The Fly Shop®

McVay Gotcha Deep Water Bunny Hot Tail Bunny Gotcha If we had to choose only one Gotcha Our #1 Los Roques bonefish fly! bonefish fly for anywhere in the Terrific in 3 to 5 feet of water. Sizes 4-8 (#258F) world... Size 4 (#224F) Sizes 2-8 (#266F) Lead Eyes 4 (#267F)

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Crazy Charlie Tuxedo Gotcha Bonefish Clousers The fly that revolutionized Well dressed re-models of time- Excellent deeper water foraging bonefishing. Amber, Pink, Silver, tested flies. Pearl, Copper, bone fly. Chartreuse, Pink or Tan. Chartreuse or Crystal Brown. Turtlegrass, Yellow or Pink. Sizes 2,6 (#270F) Sizes 4,6 (#262F) Sizes 6,8 (#265F)

Christmas Charlie Isley's Yucatan Charlie Banded Wing Charlie Smaller, deadly, light alloy eye Great pattern from a true regional Trophy Bahamas bones jump on models. Orange or Pink. expert. Brown or Pink. these. Pink or Orange. Size 8 (#264F) Size 6 (#519F) Size 6 (#643F)

K.O. Charlie Turneffe Charlie Chico's Bonefish Special Small, translucent, shallow water Deadly in bright sun and shallow Sizes 4,8 (#284F) versions. Yellow, Pink, Orange or water. Olive. Tan. Size 8 (#641F) Size 8 (#343F)

Mini Puff Blind Mini Puff Shane's Psycho Puff First tied by Capt. Neil Bohannon Lightly dressed for a soft Excellent, Bahamian and in the 70's, it is still one of the presentation in skinny water. Venezuelan fly. Coral, Olive or best! Tan or Pink. Size 4 (#525F) Tan. Sizes 4,6 (#287F) Sizes 4,8 (#259F)

Exuma Mini Puff Tailing Bonefish Snapping Shrimp

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For shallow flats and nervous fish. Lands like a feather, sinks slowly. Light and pulls through the grass Chartreuse, Grizzly or Cree. Perfect skinny water fly. Tan, Pink easily. Size 8 (#765F) or Yellow. Gold 8 (#786F) Size 6 (#788F) Brown 6 (#787F)

Darting Coral Shrimp Mini Krystal Shrimp Matthew's TDF Shrimp A first choice in super shallow Replaces the Charlie for many Another contribution by a flats water. Pink, Pearl or Tan. flats anglers. Chartreuse, Pink or expert. Olive or Pearl. Size 6 (#513F) Root Beer. Size 6 (#136F) Size 8 (#153F)

Banded Shrimp Miheves Brown Flats Fly Miheves Tan Flats Fly Effective over grassy bottoms. Good choice over muddy, dark Innovative and effective back Olive or Sand. bottoms. Brown. country bonefish pattern. Tan. Size 6 (#360F) Size 4 (#124FB) Size 6 (#124FT)

Boggle Head Bonefish Bitters Squimp Very successful in soft Popularized in Belize and the Tan. diatomaceous marl. Tan, Orange, Yucatan. Hermit Crab, Olive or Size 6 (#517F) Olive or Pearl. Orange. Sizes 6,8 (#268F) Size 8 (#564F)

McQuade Imitator Bone Shrimp Flash Shrimp Shrimp Deadly in early morning and Size 6 (#411F) cloudy days.

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Size 6 (#569F) Size 4 (#644F)

Tarpon Flies @ The Fly Shop®

Paradise Cockroach Paradise Sunset Paradise Purple Terrific, Central American juvenile Superb small tarpon fly in the Size 1/0 (#295F) tarpon fly. creeks and mangrove edges of Size 1/0 (#304F) small, shallow flats. Size 1/0 (#296F)

Paradise White Paradise Black Paradise Turquoise Size 1/0 (#830F) Size 1/0 (#640F) Size 1/0 (#344F)

Paradise Grizzly Tarpon Paradise Tarpon Black Death Size 1/0 (#161F) Great Yucatan Tarpon Flies. Fire, Indispensable on flats of Northern Purple or Yellow. Belize. Size 1 (#439F) Size 3/0 (#306F)

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Marquesa Sunrise Cockroach Black Eye Extremely productive Florida Keys Number one tarpon fly Great evening fly on any tarpon pattern. everywhere! flat Size 3/0 (#305F) Size 3/0 (#292F) Size 3/0 (#290F)

Red and White Black Death Rabbit Blue Horizon Tarpon Lefy Kreh calls this his best all From Mexico to Cuba to Belize, Clouser around fly. tarpon love it! Our first choice when fishing for Size 3/0 (#307F) Size 1/0 (#498F) deepwater tarpon. Belizean reef- cut special. Size 1/0 (#507F)

Lefty's Shark and Cuda RM Needle Fish Fly Easy to cast, with a slim profile Lefty calls this fly indispensible that makes it very attractive to for casting to the flats predators. barracudas. Slim wet profile. Size 2 (#633F) Size 3/0 (#341F)

Kudaliscious Hot new needlefish pattern. Cuda love needlefish. Size 4/0 (#494F)

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The Nasty Needle Needlefish are a great source of food for Barracuda. This fly wil pull them off the edges of the flats. Chartreuse or Orange. Size 2/0 (#354F)

Economy Cuda Fly This is a great fly for Cuda and at this price, you can buy more wire tippet. Purple only. Size 3/0 (#333F)

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UNIT 8: FLY FISHING KNOTS

t

Saltwater fly-fishing tackle doesn't need to be complicated. In fact, freshwater anglers can successfully use their tackle for many saltwater species. However, with the variety and size of fish swimming offshore, it's wise to match tackle to the being sought.

Your fly line is just one component of a ' System. Our backing, reels, leaders and tippets are designed to work together - so you can concentrate on catching fish. Even so, there are some basics, such as knots, and some principles, such as matching rod, reel and line weights, which can make fly fishing that much more enjoyable.

Most anglers start with a 9 or 10-weight line, suitable for most saltwater fish under 40 pounds. A matching 9-foot rod and quality reel (such as a System'" 2-M reel) provides the strength and line capacity needed for scorching bonefish or permit runs.

A 7 or 8 weight outfit is sufficient for smaller species, such as sea or redfish, while a 12 or 13 weight outfit is the best way to handle tarpon or sailfish in a stiff wind. All reels need plenty of backing ... an angry tarpon can peel off line and be into your backing before you realize it. If your line-to-backing connection fails you, you've wasted a lot of time and effort. (Not to mention losing your fly line.) Mastering the knots you need - from the reel to the fly - isn't difficult.

KNOTS

Certain knots have been developed specifically for saltwater fishing, while others work equally well in freshwater situations. The illustrations which follow show knots favored by experienced fly anglers.

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BACKING TO REEL CONNECTION______

The most basic connection - anchoring backing to the reel arbor (or spool center) -uses the Arbor Knot. Tie an overhand knot on the backing end and tighten it. Insert this knotted end between the reel foot and the arbor, circle the arbor, and pull the knotted end out so it's next to the standing part of the backing. Tie a second overhand knot with the tag end around the standing part of the backing, about 2" from the first knot.

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Holding the reel in your left hand, pull on the standing part of the backing with your right hand, snuggling the first overhand knot against the arbor. Trim the tag end, and wind the backing onto your reel.

BACKING TO FLY LINE CONNECTION______

Many anglers prefer a Surgeon's Loop (or a Bimini Twist Loop) on the backing end so they can switch fly lines easily. The reel end of the fly line usually has a Double Nail Knot Loop or a Whipped Loop. Loops should always be connected as shown below. (Backing may also be connected directly to lighter-weight fly lines with a Nail Knot or Tube Knot, as in freshwater fly- fishing.)

The loop-to-loop connection is the strongest and best way to get started. It should be used with ALL braided core lines, such as Tarpon Taper and single filament Monocore lines, so knots will hold. The knots in this section also work well for shooting heads and shooting lines.

LOOP-TO-LOOP CONNECTION

Many anglers prefer to work with loop-to-loop systems for interchanging lines, leaders and tippets.

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The connection must be made as shown by passing one loop (A) over the other loop (B) before putting A's other end through loop B. This creates the equivalent of a Square Knot.

The Surgeon's Loop is easy to tie. Double back about 8" of backing, forming a 2" loop with the doubled line. (Use 16" of backing to form an 8" loop if you intend to pass the reel through the loop to change lines.)

Tie a loose overhand knot with the doubled backing. Bring the doubled backing through the opening in the loose overhand knot a second time, from the same direction. Moisten the knot area.

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Grasp the standing part and the tag end of the backing in the left hand and the loop part in the right hand. Pull the loop to tighten. Loop size can be adjusted by pulling the knot to the desired point before moistening and tightening. Clip the tag end.

The Double Nail Knot Loop requires a small diameter nail, paper clip or similar object about twice the diameter of the fly line. A small diameter tube makes the knot easier to tie.

Create a small loop in the reel end of the fly line. Hold the tube and the looped end of the fly line with your left thumb and forefinger so about two inches of the doubled fly line and the tube sticks out to the right. With your right hand, form a half loop in a 12" to 18" length of 12 to 15 pound mono. Pinch down and hold this half loop with your left thumb and forefinger next to the tube and fly line.

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Use your right hand to grasp one leg of the mono loop and make 5 to 6 snug wraps over the tube, doubled fly line and the other leg of the fly line loop. These wraps should butt against each other, and be 1/2" to 3/4" from the end of the fly line loop.

Then slide your left thumb and forefinger forward to hold the wraps so they don't unwind while you work the tag end of the mono through the tube from right to left. Carefully remove the tube by sliding it to the left. (If you are using a nail or other stiffener, you will have to work the end of the mono under the wraps along the nail before removing it.)

Semi-tighten the knot by pulling gently on the tag end of the mono. Don't pull on the fly line!

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Moisten the knot area, inspect knot wraps for smoothness, and tighten the knot by simultaneously pulling on both tag ends of the mono so it "bites" into the fly line. Trim the mono tag ends. Tie a second Nail Knot next to the first one.

Trim the mono tag ends of the second knot and the fly line tag, and then pull hard on the fly line loop to test its strength. Coat the connection with rubber-based cement (such as Pliobond) for added strength.

FLY LINE TO LEADER CONNECTION______

A Double Nail Knot Loop on the tapered end of the fly line and a Surgeon's Loop on the leader butt is a smooth connection that won't jam in the guides, yet allows for quick leader changes. Tighten the Surgeon's Loop by pulling on the loop, tag end and standing part of leader butt. Pliers should only be used to snug tag end. LEADER TO TIPPET CONNECTION______The tippet is tied directly to the leader; the other end is then tied to a shock tippet. With some fish, such as bonefish, anglers skip the shock tippet, tying the tippet directly to the fly. The tippet can be from one foot to 3 or 4 feet long. If you already know how to tie a Blood Knot, use it to join tippet and leader. If not, try the easier Surgeon's Knot.

The Surgeon's Knot requires the leader and tippet to be placed side-by-side so they overlap (for about 6") with ends facing in opposite directions.

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Pinch the standing leader and tippet tag end with the left thumb and forefinger and use the right hand to tie an overhand knot with the leader tag end and the tippet. (Yes, the entire length of the tippet must be passed completely through the overhand knot loop, even though the leader tag end is only about 5" long) Don't tighten me completed overhand knot!

Grasp the completed loop with the left hand and make another pass through the same overhand knot, passing the full length of the tippet and the leader tag end through a second time.

Draw the loop down to a one-inch diameter by simultaneously pulling on leader and tippet. Moisten the loop; grasp the leader and tippet tag on the left with your left hand, and the tippet

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Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing and leader tag on the right with your right hand. Pull all four ends simultaneously to snug the knot tight. Trim tag ends.

TIPPET TO SHOCK TIPPET CONNECTION______Depending on the species sought, the final connection may be a shock tippet between the leader (or class tippet) and the actual fly. It's usually of wire or heavy mono, and is often connected to a doubled leader or tippet (tied with a Bimini Twist for 100% strength.) The Bimini Twist and other knots are detailed in the publications listed at the end of these instructions.

Use the Albright Special for tying a light class tippet to a heavy shock tippet of mono or wire. It can also join different materials of different diameters.

Start by doubling back a couple of inches of heavy mono (or wire) and hold the loop with your left thumb and forefinger. From the right, insert about 10 inches of the light tippet through the heavy mono loop.

While holding the loop, pinch the tippet between your left thumb and forefinger, and use your right hand to wrap the tippet tag end back over both strands of the heavier leader and the tippet. Starting next to your fingers and working toward the loop end, make 10 to 12 fairly tight wraps.

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Push the tag end of the tippet back through the loop on the side opposite where it originally entered so both tippet strands exit on the same side of the loop. Pull on the standing part of the tippet to remove the loop you were holding in your left Hand. Pull both ends of the tippet snug.

Pull gently on both ends of the heavy leader loop so the knot slides toward the closed end or the leader loop. Squeeze the knot with your fingers and work it down to the loop end. Moisten the knot. Hold the standing and tag leader strands in your right hand, and the tag and standing shock tippet strands in your left hand. Pull as tight as possible using a pliers on the tag end. Clip off both tag ends.

TIPPET TO FLY CONNECTION______If you are using a shock tippet, a Homer Rhode Loop Knot is preferred.

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Form an open overhand knot about 4" to 6" from the end of the shock leader. Pass the shock leader tip through the hook eye and back through the open overhand knot. It should re-enter on the same side it exited.

Tighten the overhand knot against the hook eye. Use the shock leader tip to tie an overhand knot around the standing part of the shock leader, tighten lightly and slide this knot toward the first knot. (Its position will determine the loop size.) Moisten the knot, and firmly pull on the tag end with pliers to seat the knot.

Pull on the standing part of the shock leader so the first overhand knot slides toward the second knot, forming the desired loop. Trim the tag end, allowing at least 1/16" for slippage.

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If you are not using a shock tippet, the Improved Clinch Knot is a perennial favorite for tippets under 12 pounds. Insert 5" to 6" of tippet through the hook eye. Make five turns with the tag end around the standing part of the tippet, winding away from the hook.

Hold the hook in your left hand and push the tag end through the opening between the hook eye and the first wrap. This creates an open tippet loop over the wraps. Push the tag end through this open loop and pull lightly until the knot begins to close.

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Moisten the knot area. Alternately pull on the standing portion of the tippet and the hook until the knot snugs up against the hook. Trim the tag end.

EFFECTIVE KNOT-TYING______Pliers and gloves will help you tighten your knots, and save your fingers and palms from injury. Few knots are 100% of the leader's or line's rated strength but if you moisten all knots before drawing them tight, tighten them slowly, and test every knot by pulling on it - hard - you will have few knot failures. Be sure to replace leaders, tippets and lines when they show wear or abrasion. And please, never discard used monofilament anywhere but in a trash receptacle or recycling bin.

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Technical Document No. 21 Training Manual for Tour Guiding in Sport Fishing

UNIT 9: SPORT FISH OF THE MBRS

Game Fishes Great DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Have a large under-slung jaw with Barracuda visible pointed teeth. DESCRIPTION: Are large, silvery, and long. Barracudas Spyyraena barracuda normally have scattered dark blotches on their bodies. Barracuda, Their dorsal fins have a long space of separation between them. Cuda, Picuda HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Generally drift around reefs. They are usually solitary, but can be found in schools. They open and close their mouths to aid in respiration.

Bonefish Albula vulpes DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Short, under-slung mouth; single dorsal Macabí fin; and deeply forked tail. DESCRIPTION: Silver, slender, and round body. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primary an inshore fish feeding over shallow flats often near mangroves or lush grass flats, occasionally over white sand. Travels in loose schools; roots out shrimp, shellfish, crabs, and fish from the bottom. Spawns offshore, eggs hatching into ribbon- like larvae that change into fish-like form at about 2 inches and more inshore. Size: 3 to 5 pounds.

Permit DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: High back profile. Orangish area at Trachinotus start of anal fin. DESCRIPTION: falcatus Brilliantly silver with shades of iridescent blue on head and back. Palometa Belly often yellowish. Tip of dorsal fin dark. Dark circular area behind base of pectoral fin. Sometime has dark midbody blotch. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found on grass flats, sand flats and in channels. Occasionally swim over reefs. Normally solitary. Feeds on mollusks (small clams), urchins and crustaceans (crabs, shrimp) and small fish.

Tarpon DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Shiny, large “stainless steel” scales. Megalops Upturned mouth. atlanticus DESCRIPTION: Last ray of dorsal fin extended into long filament. Sábalo HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an inshore fish. Normally school during the day. Actively feed at night. Slow grower; matures at 7 to 13 years of age; spawning occurs between May and September; female may lay more than 12 million eggs; can tolerate wide range of salinity; juveniles commonly found in fresh water; can breathe air at the surface; feeds mainly on fish and large crustaceans.

Ladyfish DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long, upturned mouth that extends Elops saurus beyond eye. Ventral fins are directly below dorsal fin. Tzotzín DESCRIPTION: Terminal mouth; slender body; small scales, last dorsal ray not elongated; head small and pointed. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inshore fish. Inhabit bays and estuaries; occasionally enters freshwater, occurring in tidal pools and canals; often forms large schools and harasses bait at the surface. Know to spawn offshore; adults feed predominantly on fish and crustaceans; leaps when hooked.

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Cobia DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long torpedo-shaped body. Rachycentron DESCRIPTION: Silver to dark brown. Long, slim fish with broad canadum depressed head. Lower jaw projects past upper jaw. Dark mid-body Esmedregal stripe extends through eye to tail. Forked tail. (Mx) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Both inshore and near-shore inhabiting Cabío (Bz) inlets, bays and among mangroves. Spawns in spring and early summer. Feeds on crabs, squid and small fish.

Common DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Distinct black lateral line. Sloping Snook forehead. DESCRIPTION: Silvery olive; large mouth, protruding lower jaw; Centropomus pelvic fin yellow. undecimalis HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit coastal and brackish waters Robalo along mangrove shorelines. Spawns primarily in summer; cannot tolerate water temperatures below 60°F; can tolerate wholly fresh or saltwater. Schools along shore and in passes during spawning season. Feed on fish and large crustaceans. Size: 5 to 8 pounds.

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Pelagic Fishes Blue Marlin DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Spear-like upper jaw. Makaira DESCRIPTION: Cobalt blue on top shading to silvery white on nigricans bottom. Dorsal fin pointed at front end. Pectoral fin and anal fin Marlín Azul pointed. Lateral line reticulated (interwoven) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: A blue-water fish. Largest of the Atlantic marlins (can reach 11 ft or 2,000 pounds). Males do not exceed 300 pounds. Make trans-Atlantic migrations. Feeds on squid and pelagic fishes, including blackfin tuna and frigate mackerel.

White DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Dark spots on dorsal fin. Marlin DESCRIPTION: Upper body is dark blue to chocolate brown, Tetrapturus shading to silvery white underbelly. Upper jaw elongated in shape albidus of spear. Tips of first dorsal, pectoral and first anal fins rounded. Marlín Blanco HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: A blue water fish. Common to 8 ft. Uses its bill to stun fast-moving fishes, then turns to consume them. Feeds on squid and pelagic fishes.

Sailfish DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: First dorsal fin greatly enlarged in Istiophorus the form of a sail with many black spots. platypterus DESCRIPTION: Dark blue on upper body, brown-blue on the Pez Vela sides and silvery white on the underbelly. Upper jaw elongated in the form of a spear. Pelvic fins are very long and narrow. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Offshore species. Common to 7 ft. Rapid growing species, reaching 4 to 5 feet in a single year. Swims at speeds up to 50 knots. Feeds on the surface or at mid-depth on smaller pelagic fishes and squid.

Swordfish DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long, flat, sword-like upper jaw. Xiphias gladuis DESCRIPTION: Back is either black, greyish blue, brown, Pez Espada metallic purple or bronze. Sides are dusky and underbelly is dirty (Bz) white. Lacks scales, teeth and pelvic fins. First dorsal fin high, Emperador rigid and short. Large eyes. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. Large swordfish are all females and prefer cooler waters. Feeds on squid, octopus and pelagic fishes of all kinds.

Wahoo DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Sharply pointed snout. Acanthocybium DESCRIPTION: Long, cigar-shaped body. Bright silver to silvery solandri gray with dark bluish back. 24-30 Cobalt blue vertical bars extend to Wahoo below the lateral line. Nine dorsal finlets and widely forked tail. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish, but may be found over deeper reefs. Travel solitary or in pairs. Feeds on fishes and squid.

Cero DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Series of yellow-gold streaks along Scomberomorus midline. regalis DESCRIPTION: Long, cigar-shaped body. Iridescent bluish green on the back and silvery on the sides. Small yellow-gold body spots Sierra (Mx) on either side of streaks. Makerel (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish, but may be found over reefs and drop-offs. Usually solitary, occasionally travel in pairs or small groups. Feeds on fishes and

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squid. Spawns offshore in midsummer.

King DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Lateral line drops abruptly below Mackerel second dorsal fin. DESCRIPTION: Silvery with no markings. Back is iridescent Scomberomorus bluish green. Streamlined body with tapered head. Juvenile often cavalla have yellowish spots on sides. Kingfish (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish. Travel Sierra (Bz) solitary or in small groups. Spawns in midsummer offshore. Feeds Sierra Blanca on small fish and squid. (Mx) Spanish DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellow-gold spots on sides. Mackerel DESCRIPTION: Silvery with bluish back. Elongated body. Front Scomberomorus of dorsal fin black. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish, but maculates Sierra (Mx) may also be found in shallow water estuaries. Usually form large Makerel (Bz) schools.

Pompano DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: DESCRIPTION: Rounded head profile with deep body and short Dolphin pectoral fin. Body has prominent dark spots, set on blue, green and Coryphaena yellow background colours. The tooth patch on the tongue of the equisetis dolphin it is round in shape and in pompano dolphin it is distinctly Dorado squarish. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Primarily an open-water fish. Usually are found under sargassum floats and areas with strong currents. Are fast growers and females mature at 9-12 inches. They live no more than 5 years. Spawning takes place throughout the spring and summer. Feed on small fishes, crustaceans (under floating seaweed), jacks, flying fish and squid.

Dolphin DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long, continuous dorsal fin extends Coryphaena from above eye to base of tail. Long pectoral fins. Male (bull) have hippurus very blunt head. Female have rounded, torpedo-shaped head. Dorado DESCRIPTION: Brilliant silver with males displaying bright Mahi Mahi yellow, yellow-green and blue iridescent spots. Females display brilliant blue iridescence spots with blue markings on head. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. Fast swimmer (approx. 50 knots). Found under sargassum floats. Usually are in small aggregations of 2 or 2 bulls and numerous females. One of the fastest-growing fish. Thought to live no more than 5 years. Spawns in warm oceanic currents throughout much of the year. Feeds on flying fish and squid.

Little DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Robust, torpedo-shaped body. Tunny DESCRIPTION: Steel blue with 3-5 broken, dark wavy lines, not extending below lateral line. The belly is white and lacks stripes, Euthynnus but has 3-7 dark spot between the pelvic and pectoral fins. Caudal alletteratus fin is deeply lunate. Bonito (Bz & HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. School according to Mx) size and in large groups up to a mile long. Feeds on crustaceans, clupeid fishes, squid and tunicates. It often feeds on sardines, scads and herring at the surface. Spawning occurs in April through November. They are fast-growing, but short-lived fish (live no more than 5 years) and reach sexual maturity at age one (14 inches).

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Spawns offshore.

Blackfin DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Dusky finlets. Tuna DESCRIPTION: The back is dark metallic blue, the sides are Thunnus silvery-gray and the belly is white. Many have traces of bronze- atlanticus coloured line down each side. Atún aleta HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An open-water fish. Feeds on the tiny negra (Mx) larvae of stomatopods (king shrimp or mantis shrimp), true shrimp, crabs and fish larvae. It also feeds on juvenile and adult fish and squid. They are a short-lived, fast growing species (lives no more than 5 years). They reach sexual maturity at 2 years old (4-6 lbs). Spawns in the open sea during the summer. Prefers warmer waters.

Skipjack DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Horizontal stripes on its belly. Tuna DESCRIPTION: The back is dark purplish blue. In large specimens the stripes on its belly may be broken into rows of Katsuwonus blotches. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: A migratory, open-water pelamis species that forms very large schools, often with the blackfin tuna. Striped tuna They are ravenous predators, primarily feed on fishes (herrings, mackerels and flying fish) and squid. A fast-growing, short-lived fish that can reach 21/2 feet at age 3.

Yellowfin DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Long crescent-shaped extensions of Tuna the anal and second dorsal fins. Thunnus DESCRIPTION: Deep, streamlined body. It has a metallic, deep albacares blue back, changing to yellow and silver on the belly. A yellow band extends down the side, and the belly often has about 20 Atún aleta vertical broken lines. amarilla HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An open-water fish. Are spawning and (Mx) eating machines. Are fairly long-lived. Some reach sexual maturity during their fist year, but most are age 2-3 when they first spawn. They spawn several times a year in the open sea in warmer waters. Feed on a huge variety of finfish, squid, shrimp, and crabs.

Albacore DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Very long pectoral fins Thunnus DESCRIPTION: Deep-bodied, streamlined fish with very long alalunga pectoral fins. The rear edge of the tail fin is trimmed in white. Longfin Tuna HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found in the open sea away from Albacora (Mx) shore. They are migratory stragglers that are usually found with yellowfin and blackfin tunas. They spend most of their time below the thermocline in cooler waters. They can live at least 10 years and begin to spawn at age 5. Spawning is usually done in large groups. Feed on a variety of fish, as well as squid and crustaceans.

Atlantic DISTINCTIVE FEATURE: Longitudinal stripes on its back. Bonito DESCRIPTION: Small, streamlined fish with longitudinal stripes Sarda sarda on its back. The back and upper sides are steel-blue. Bonito (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An open-water fish. Are relentless Barrilete (Mx) predators from the time they hatch. Feed on fish, including herrings, menhaden, hake, mackerels, anchovies, as well as shrimp and squid. They live at least 9 years, but are not large fish. They reach sexual maturity at age 2 and spawn in the early summer. Uncommon in the Caribbean.

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Groupers - Serranidae

Red Grouper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Smooth foredorsal fin. Epinephelus morio Juveniles have pale bluish borders on rear dorsal, anal and tail Mero Mestizo fins. (Bz) DESCRIPTION: Reddish brown with small, scattered whitish blotches. Can change colour, pale or darken and display bars. Squared-off tail. Have block dots around the eyes. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit reefs and edge of sea grass beds. Rest on bottom, blending with surroundings. Undergoes sex reversal (young individuals are female, becoming male as the age). Lifespan of at least 25 years. Feeds on squid, crustaceans and fish.

YellowMouth DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Distinct yellow around corners Grouper of mouth. Pectoral fins are pale at base and margin. Juveniles Mycteroperca are bicolored (dark back, white belly) with yellow spinous fin. interstitalis DESCRIPTION: Tan to brownish grey with darker spots. Cabrilla Can pale or darken dramatically.

Yellowfin Grouper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Outer third of pectoral fin is Mycteroperca pale to bright yellow; Tail has thin, dark irregular margin. DESCRIPTION: Color highly variable. Black, gray, brown, venenosa olive-green or red rectangular blotches over light background. Cabrilla aleta HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits reef tops and walls. amarilla Often rest on bottom in secluded spots. Can change color, pale Perca (Mx) or darken. Undergoes sex reversal from female to male in latter part of life. Feeds on fish and squid. Nassau DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Black saddle spot on base of Grouper tail. Epinephelus DESCRIPTION: Five irregular, olive-brown bars over light striatus background. Diagonal bar from snout across eye. Black dots Mero del Caribe around the eyes. (Mx) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow to mid-range Mero (Bz) coral reefs. Can change from pale to almost black. Often rest on bottom, blending with surroundings. Forms large spawning aggregations, making this species highly vulnerable to over-fishing. Spawns in December and January.

Black DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Thin, pale yellow margin on Grouper pectoral fins. Tail has wide, black margin with thin, white edge. DESCRIPTION: Olive Mycteroperca or gray body coloration with black blotches and brassy spots. bonaci HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit reefs, rocky bottoms and Abadejo (Mx, Bz) drop-off walls in water over 60 ft. deep. Spawns between Rockfish (Bz) January and March. Young are predominantly female, transforming into males, as they grow larger. Feeds on fish and squid. Warsaw DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Long second spine of dorsal Grouper fin. DESCRIPTION: Uniform brown with no obvious markings Epinephelus or spots. Square tail fin. nigritus HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit deep reefs, rocky Black Jewfish bottoms, caves and ledges in waters between 40 – 400 meters

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Fiat (Mx) deep. Feeds on fish, crabs and shrimps. Wasa (Bz) Llegan a pesar hasta 120 Kg. Viven alrededor de 25 a 30 años. Se alimentan de cangrejos, camarones y peces. Tiger Grouper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Have distinct tiger-stripe bars. Mycteroperca Juveniles are yellow with dusky mid-body streak. tigris DESCRIPTION: Nine brown to black diagonal bars over light Cabrilla background. Can dramatically change color, pale or darken. Negrillo (Mx) Occasionally bright red, especially at cleaning stations. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit reefs and drop-offs. Rest on bottom in secluded spots. Often in cleaning stations. Spawns in February and March. Feeds on fish and squid.

Rock Hind DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Have black saddle blotch on Epinephelus base of the tail. adscensionis DESCRIPTION: Reddish to dark dots cover the body and all Cabrilla fins. Have one to four pale or dark blotches along back, below Payaso (Mx) dorsal fin. Can pale to almost white or darken dramatically. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow, rocky inshore areas, and occasionally deep reefs. Drifts near bottom with tail down.

Red Hind DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: The caudal, anal and back Epinephelus dorsal fins have black margin edged in white. guttatus DESCRIPTION: Have reddish spots over whitish Strawberry background. Can pale or darken. grouper HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow inshore patch reefs to deep banks. Drift just above bottom or rest quietly on Cabrilla pectoral fins, blending with surroundings. Payaso (Mx) Jimmy Hind (Bz) Goliath Grouper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Head and fins covered with small Epinephelus black spots. itajara DESCRIPTION: Largest fish observed on the reefs. Jewfish Yellowish brown to olive-brown with irregular dark vertical Cherna bars on the side of the body. Pectoral and caudal fins rounded. First dorsal fin shorter than and not separated from second dorsal. Small eyes. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Hides in caves, wrecks and under ledges. Juveniles inhabit mangroves. Spawns over summer months; lifespan of 30 to 50 years. Feeds on crustaceans and fish.

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Jacks - Carangidae Greater DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Diagonal band runs from lip, Amberjack across eye to beginning of dorsal fin. Short fore-dorsal fin. DESCRIPTION: Silvery with yellow cast fins. Have Seriola diffuse, yellowish stripe along mid-body. Soft dorsal fin less dumerili than twice the length of the anal fin. No scutes. Largest of Coronado the jacks. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open-water fish. Often in large schools, occasionally solitary. Spawn offshore throughout much of the year. Feeds on squid, fish, and crustaceans.

Blue DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Tips of tail fins dark. Runner DESCRIPTION: Bluish silver to brassy or olive. Frequently Caranx has black spot near upper end of gill cover. Breeding males crysos become blackish. Jurel HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Travels in school in open water. Matures by 9 to 10 inches. Spawns offshore from January through August. Young form schools associated with floating objects. Adults feed on fish, shrimp and squid.

Crevalle DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Blackish blotch on pectoral fins. Jack DESCRIPTION: Silvery, with yellowish tail and belly. Black spot near top of gill cover. Soft dorsal and anal fins Caranx almost identical in size. hippos HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Common in both inshore waters Jurel de carne and the open sea. Tolerates a wide range of salinities. Feeds negra (Mx) mainly on small fish. Peak spawning occurs offshore from Caballo (Bz) March through September.

Horse-Eye DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellowtail fins. Pectoral fin Jack clear. Caranx-latus DESCRIPTION: Silvery. Usually have dark tips on dorsal Jurel de carne and upper tail fin. Often a small black spot at upper end of blanca (Mx) gill cover. Usually have black scutes. Ojon (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swim in open water over reefs, usually in small groups to large schools. Almaco DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Dark diagonal band runs from Jack lip, across eye to beginning of dorsal fin. Long fore-dorsal fin. Seriola DESCRIPTION: Silvery, burnished, deep-body with bluish rivoliana or greenish tints. Compressed body. Tail is deeply forked. Coronado Juvenile have long thread-like filaments from dorsal and anal (Mx) fins. Ocean Jack HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Deep, open-water fish. Often (Bz) travel alone, but occasionally in small schools. African DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Steep, blunt forehead. Pompano DESCRIPTION: Silvery, deep-bodied amberjack. Fins dusky. Flattened body. No scutes. Alectic HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Deep, open-water fish. Often ciliaris travel alone, but occasionally in schools. Spawns offshore, Abanderado apparently during spring, summer and fall.

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Florida DESCRIPTION: Greenish gray on back, shading to silvery Pompano sides. Body deeply flattened with small mouth. No scutes. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found inshore and nearshore Trachinotus waters, especially along sandy beaches and over grassbeds. carolinus Often found in turbid water. May be found in water as deep Pampano as 130 feet. Are usually less than 3 pounds. Spawns offshore between March and September. Feeds on mollusks and crustaceans, especially sand fleas.

Rainbow DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Two blue stripes run length of Runner body with pale to brilliant yellow stripe between. Dorsal and anal finlet. Elagatis DESCRIPTION: Silvery yellow to blue. Tail fins yellowish. bipinnulata Head more pointed and body more elongated compared to most jacks. Rear dorsal and anal fins often appear to be serrated. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Open water fish, rarely over reefs. Occasionally swim along walls. May form large schools. Prefers areas with current.

Bar Jack DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Bright blue and black border Caranx ruber on back runs along dorsal fin and onto lower tail fin. Cojinuda DESCRIPTION: Silvery. Can darken almost to black, especially when feeding near bottom. Eyes are red and pectoral fins are large. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swim in open water over reefs in small groups to large schools. Opportunistic feeders, they often follow or mix with goatfish and stingrays as they dig in the sand. Spawns offshore during February to August. Feeds on pelagic fishes and occasionally on small benthic fishes, shrimps and squids.

Yellow DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellow tail fins. Jack DESCRIPTION: Silvery, with yellow cast. Fins and tail yellowish. Caranx HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swims over outer reefs usually bartholomaei solitary or in small groups. Spawns from February to Cojinuda October. Feeds on fishes that live on the bottom.

Banded DESCRIPTION: Bluish, greenish, or brown. Soft dorsal fin Rudderfish about twice the length of the anal fin. Tail-lobes are white tipped. Juveniles have dark band from eye to first dorsal fin Seriola and six prominent bars on body. zonata HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Nearshore and offshore. Coronado Associated with weed lines or floating debris and may (Mx) follow shark and other large fish. Adults feed on fish and Rapadora shrimp. Spawns offshore most of the year. (Bz)

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Palometa DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Four dark body bars. Trachinotus Extremely long dorsal and anal fins. goodie DESCRIPTION: Silvery with greyish-blue-green on top of head and along the back. Yellow on breast. Black edges on Palometa (Mx, dorsal, anal and tail fins. No scutes. Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits clear water along sandy beaches and bays, occasionally found over reefs. Young frequent surge zone near beaches. Thought to spawn offshore in spring, summer, and fall.

Permit DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: High back profile. Orangish Trachinotus area at start of anal fin. falcatus DESCRIPTION: Brilliantly silver with shades of iridescent blue on head and back. Belly often yellowish. Tip of dorsal Permit (Bz) fin dark. Dark circular area behind base of pectoral fin. Palometa Sometime has dark mid-body blotch. (Mx) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found on grass flats, sand flats and in channels. Occasionally swim over reefs. Normally solitary. Feeds on mollusks (small clams), urchins and crustaceans (crabs, shrimp) and small fish.

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Snappers - Lutjanidae Grey Snapper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Darkish band occasionally runs Lutjanus griseus from lip across eye. Black Snapper DESCRIPTION: Vary from pale gray to dark gray or reddish Mangrove brown. Occasionally have faint body bars. Snapper HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow inshore areas, especially grass beds, mangroves, rocky ledges and shallow Pargo Mulato reefs. Form small schools. Spawns June through August. Feeds on Crustaceans and small fish.

Lane Snapper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Diffuse black spot. Lutjanus synagris DESCRIPTION: Silvery-pink to reddish with short, irregular Biajaiba (Mx) pink and yellow lines on its sides. Pectoral, ventral and anal fins Rayado (Bz) often yellow. Dorsal and tail fins often reddish HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit shallow reefs and other inshore areas where they form small schools. Spawns in March to September. Sexually mature at 6 inches. Feeds on the bottom, taking crustaceans, mollusks, and fish.

Mutton DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Fine blue lines below eye. Pointed Snapper anal fin. Black spot on mid-body. DESCRIPTION: Silvery to gray, reddish brown and olive Lutjanus analis green. Fins have reddish tint. Pargo Lunar (Mx) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: An inshore species associated with Colorado (Bz) grass beds, mangroves, sandy areas, and reefs. Spawns in July and August. Feeds on fish, crustaceans and snails.

Yellowtail DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Brilliant yellow mid-body stripe Snapper and tail. Ocyurus DESCRIPTION: Silvery to white with bluish back and upper chrysurus sides. Yellow spots on upper body. Narrow yellow stripes in Rubio (Bz) lower sides and belly. Deeply forked tail. Canané (Mx) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Swim in mid-water in loose schools or alone. Feeds on small fish and invertebrates. Spawns in midsummer.

Dog Snapper DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Pale triangular patch under eye. Lutjanus jocu DESCRIPTION: Pale gray to reddish brown. Large, sharp canine teeth. Line of blue dots under eye. Huachipargo o HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Large adults are found offshore Pargo perro over coral and rocky reefs. Solitary. Spawns from January to (Mx) July. Known as night feeder; feeding on fishes, mollusks and Huach (Bz) crustaceans.

Schoolmaster DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Yellow fins. Juvenile have bars Lutjanus apodus on back. Pargo Canchix DESCRIPTION: Silver to olive green. Blue line under eye. Bruk pot (Bz) Often have 8 pale bars. Long triangular snout. HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Juvenile found in grass flats and adults around reefs and on continental shelf. Spawns in July and August. Feeds on crustaceans, small fishes and gastropods.

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Mahogany DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Reddish margin on tail. Snapper DESCRIPTION: Silver to white, often with reddish tinge. Reddish border on dorsal and anal fins. Often have dark spot Lutjanus below rear dorsal fin. Large red eye. mahogoni HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found alone or in small groups over coral reefs.

Cubera DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Thick lips. Occasionally have Snapper pale bars on back. Lutjanus DESCRIPTION: Vary from silvery steel gray to dark brown. cyanopterus May lighten or darken dramatically. Anal fin rounded. Large canine teeth. Cubera (Mx) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Solitary, deep-reef dweller. Colmilludo (Bz) Inhabit rocky ledges and overhangs. The largest of the snappers, ranging to 125 pounds. Feeds on fishes and large crustaceans. Spawns during later summer.

Silk Snapper DESCRIPTION: Pinkish red back and upper sides, shading to Lutjanus vivanus silvery on the sides and bottom. Fine undulating yellow lines. Back edge of caudal fin blackish. Anal fin pointed. Huachinango HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Found offshore over rocky ledges ojo Amarillo in very deep water. Weights less than 5 pounds. (Mx) Wacamayo (Bz)

Wenchman DESCRIPTION: Pinkish red on the back and upper sides, Pristopomoides shading to silvery on the sides and bottom with a bluish aquilonaris iridescence tinge in the edges of the scales. Scales are very sharp. Huachinango HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits deep reef. Feeds on small navaja fishes. (Mx)Navajuelo (Bz) Pink Snapper Big-eye Snapper Queen DESCRIPTION: Red back and upper sides. Silvery on the Snapper lower sides. Body long and slender. Distinctly notched dorsal fin. Large eyes. Caudal fin deeply forked. Etelis oculatus HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit deep reefs of the Huachinango continental shelf to 450 feet. Less than 20 inches. Young seda (Mx) suspend at mid-depths. Mojarra de agua honda (Bz) Black DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Snapper DESCRIPTION: Short and pointed snout. Long pectoral fins Apsilus dentatus reaching the level of anus. The back and upper side are violet or dark brown becoming lighter ventrally. Juveniles are mainly Pargo Negro de blue in color. mar Honda (Bz) HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabits mainly deep rocky Lamparita (Mx) bottom. Feeds on fishes and benthic organisms including cephalopods and tunicates.

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Blackfin DISTINCTIVE FEATURES: Comma-shaped blotch at the base Snapper of the pectoral fins. Orange or bronze iris. DESCRIPTION: Red, with yellowish caudal, anal and pelvic Lutjanus fins. Anal fin rounded. buccanella HABITAT & BEHAVIOR: Inhabit deep water between 80 to Huachinango 150 meters. Spawn during March and October. Feed on smaller aleta negra fishes. Considered oceanic. Cruise near surface, filtering (Mx) plankton from water. Occasionally they pass along walls and Bochix (Bz) over reefs.

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