2 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 WWD.COM McQueen Tributes Pour In WWDWEEKEND By WWD Staff AS TRIBUTES TO THE LATE LEE ALEX- ander McQueen continued to pour in Friday, FASHION including piles of flowers outside his stores in S 8 New York picked up steam with London and New York, a London Metropolitan collections from Jason Wu, Ralph Police spokeswoman said results of a postmor- Rucci, Cynthia Rowley, Yigal tem on the designer will be released Monday. Azrouël and more. Meanwhile, the British Fashion Council said it is planning to mark McQueen’s career at GENERAL London Fashion Week in some way, but is due to speak to the designer’s team and family before 1 Coach’s self-described “brand deciding on what that tribute will be. architect” Reed Krakoff is ready No funeral details for McQueen have been re- to unveil his namesake collection leased. According to British press reports, mem- LEXIE MORELAND PHOTO BY of utilitarian sportswear, luxurious bers of McQueen’s family attended the funeral Fans of Alexander McQueen left flowers outside his leather handbags and shoes. store in New York. of his mother Joyce on Friday, which was held in INSPIRATIONS Essex, just outside London. uplift in sales of Alexander McQueen across The Alexander McQueen stores in London ready-to-wear and accessories yesterday follow- 14 From English gentlemen to the Left and New York remained closed Friday and both ing the announcement of the designer’s death.” Bank and all manner of art and had numerous floral bouquets outside their Selfridges also said the designer’s signa- architecture, here are some of the doors placed by fans in tribute to the designer. ture skull scarf had proved popular, along with elements that made the New York A spokeswoman said the stores would reopen spring 2010 show pieces adorned with the de- fall collections tick. today, having closed Thursday afternoon. signer’s prints. Anne Pitcher, buying director Meanwhile, several London stores noted cus- of Selfridges, described McQueen as “leaving EYE tomers had rushed to buy McQueen items since behind a huge body of work that will influence 4 Before & After: What the socials news of the designer’s death broke late Thursday. us for decades to come. We fully expect custom- wear to combat the winter weather A spokeswoman for Harvey Nichols said the store ers to want to buy something by him — anything and what they strip down to at had had “lots of interest from every level, particu- — to keep as a memento, but also as a genuine events around town. larly in [McQueen’s] skull pieces, such as the skull tribute to his craft and spirit.” Yigal Azrouël scarves and the skull clutch, which are instantly Barneys New York said Friday afternoon recognizable, through to leggings and knitwear.” there was nothing out of the ordinary happen- A spokeswoman for Liberty said the Regent ing on the men’s designer floor where McQueen Street store plans to mount a window display in is sold. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS tribute to the designer, entitled “For McQueen and Barneys put up a photo of McQueen in a shad- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Country.” Liberty has also seen a surge in interest in ow box window on Madison Avenue. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. McQueen’s designs since late Thursday afternoon, Meanwhile, the McQueen press office on VOLUME 199, NO. 33. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one from skull scarves through to “a lot of avant-garde Friday put out an urgent call to fashion editors additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance tailoring pieces,” according to the spokeswoman. to immediately return samples from current and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé A spokeswoman for Selfridges said the store past collections loaned out for shoots in order to Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice experienced “a very significant and immediate protect the house’s legacy. President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit Iguatemi to Manage Brazilian Retailer Villa Daslu www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address unique space that will enhance their interest.” within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are By Sharon Edelson ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of Iguatemi Brasilia, which is opening at the end new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production IGUATEMI EMPRESA DE SHOPPING CENTERS of March, has commitments from Louis Vuitton, correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, S.A., one of Brazil’s largest mall developers and op- Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni and Giorgio please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available erators, has struck a deal with WTorre to manage Armani. Jereissati called it a watershed moment to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not troubled luxury retailer Villa Daslu in São Paulo. for luxury retail in Brazil because “they’re going want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY Villa Daslu’s four-story building is owned by to a different market, not São Paulo or Rio de OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, WTorre, and the land it sits on is part of the JK Janeiro. That shows a barrier is being crossed by PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, complex, a mixed-use development, which will those brands. There’s a lot of talk about enlarg- PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER consist of three office towers and a shopping mall ing their operations in São Paulo.” MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. with 250 stores, bowing in March 2011. WTorre and Reducing the size of the Villa Daslu flagship Iguatemi are equal partners in the JK complex. will give Tranchesi more time to focus on the Iguatemi was motivated to make the deal by a de- retailer’s private label, which Jereissati called sire to control the entire JK project and fill its mall with “a very strong product.” He dismissed criticism luxury brands, which have a presence at Villa Daslu. of Villa Daslu as elitist and dedicated to excess. “There’s an opportunity to open smaller “This new idea and new size is a reflection of DAILY Daslu stores in Brasilia and other markets where If it’s something you we have a presence,” said Carlos Jereissati, di- QUOTE rector and chief executive officer of Iguatemi, “really feel passionate whose portfolio consists of 11 malls in Brazil with five more under development. about, you find a way. Daslu has been drowning in debt. The retail- er, long a symbol of wealth and excess in Brazil, — Reed Krakoff on” launching his own line. Page one. has its own helipad for customers and shop-in- shops for Chanel, Prada and Hermès, among others. Its owner, Eliana Tranchesi, was indict- ed in 2005 on charges of racketeering, smuggling and fraud and sentenced in March to 94 years in prison. She is appealing. Jereissati said the deal achieves several goals. Backstage at TODAY ON “We decided three years ago to build a mall across Jason Wu. the street from Villa Daslu, which was already a well-positioned department store in São Paulo,” he said. “Everyone would ask us if [Villa Daslu] would be competition. Instead of being a competi- The JK complex in São Paulo will consist of Villa Daslu, a 250-store shopping center and three office towers. WWD tive move, this is a complementary move. Iguatemi will be managing the whole retail area, including Villa Daslu, and balancing the entire tenant mix.” Villa Daslu’s ability to connect to this new real- .COM Villa Daslu will be downsized to about 60,000 ity,” he said. “[Tranchesi] has paid attention and square feet on two-and-a-half floors. Some of the is changing her approach. By doing this deal, luxury brands with in-store shops at Villa Daslu we’re helping her achieve a better size and cost s-AINIMAGE"ACKSTAGE will open their own stores at JK Iguatemi mall, efficiencies.” As for Tranchesi’s future: “She’s not AT.EW9ORK&ASHION7EEK Jereissati said. “There’s a lot of interest from in jail. I don’t know if she will go to jail,” he said. s!DDITIONALINSPIRATIONIMAGES international retailers to enlarge in Brazil,” he Jereissati sees the future of the luxury industry said. “A lot of them would like to have not only a in Brazil as rosy. “Domestic consumption is grow- FROMMENSANDWOMENSDESIGNERS corner in a department store, but large, full-line ing a lot,” he said. “Interest rates are at their lowest s#ONTINUINGCOVERAGEOF.EW9ORK stores. For sure, Chanel, Prada and Hermès [will and the unemployment rate is the lowest in three &ASHION7EEK INCLUDINGREVIEWS move]. I’m sure they’re looking at enhancing decades. The GDP is projected to rise 6 percent in FULLRUNSOFSHOW FRONT ROWAND their presence in Brazil right now. A lot of the 2010. Brazil is going in the opposite direction of the brands have shown interest in other JK projects. larger world economies. The luxury business still BACKSTAGECOVERAGE SCOOPSAND

We think of this area — JK complex — as one has a very low presence in the country.” ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY LIVETWEETINGFROMTHETENTS Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Go backstage with her at www.maybellinelovesfashion.com 4 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 WWD.COM Before and After BABY, IT’S COLD OUTSIDE. NOT TO MENTION, SNOWY, SLUSHY AND DOWNRIGHT WIPEOUT-WORTHY. BUT THE SHOWS AND PARTIES MUST GO ON, AND SO intrepid members of the style set have thrown capes over cold shoulders, wrapped scarves around plunging necklines and laced boots over bare calves — only to shed their layers at the door. At the New York City Ballet’s annual luncheon, as a blizzard raged outside, attendees such as Jennifer Creel and Tabitha Simmons shrugged off cozy fur coats and hats to reveal Ladies Who Lunch-ready ensembles. Fellow guest Maggie Rizer pulled a full-on Superman act, changing out of her flimsy Valentino frock into jeans and boots after lunch before heading out to the snowy streets. That night, at the black-tie amfAR gala, Paulina Porizkova and Carol Alt wore velvety capes, and in Alt’s case, a massive fur trapper hat, to cover their strapless evening gowns. But it was Margherita Missoni who earned top honors for her switcheroo skills. Not only did she slough off her fur chubby before dinner, but she later snuck into the ladies’ room and stripped out of her column dress into a tiny, black slip for her after party antics. Now that’s what’s called braving the storm.

…and after in an Maggie Rizer Alexander McQueen …and after …and before jacketjacket andand ChloéChloé pants.pants. after… Tabitha Simmons in Valentino. in Valentino. Jennifer Creel before… before…

Paulina Porizkova …and Margherita Missoni Carol Alt before in after in …and before… before in Missoni… after. an Escada hat… …and after Angel in Blumarine. Sanchez.

Among those who trekked to the far creations on a photo shoot when he was just starting out. reaches of Eleventh Avenue — on icy “I asked if he could make it in another color for Cannes EYE SCOOP FRONT streets no less — for Jason Wu’s Friday and I wore it; this beautiful, emerald green gown. We’ve Olivier Theyskens celebrated the ROW afternoon show was a trio of actresses just sort of been dudes since.” launch of his book, “The Other FLASH lending their support. Australian Her seatmate, Amanda Peet, was certainly showing Side of the Picture” (Assouline), Teresa Palmer was taking in her first her loyalty to the designer: Six months pregnant, with a cocktail party at Barneys New York Fashion Week show ever, Wu will be her only show during the collections, New York Thursday night, hosted an event that happily coincided with her reshoots even though she couldn’t display her devotion by by Julie Gilhart and Simon Doonan. for the forthcoming Jerry Bruckheimer film, “The donning his threads. But the designer was tight-lipped Sorcerer’s Apprentice.” “I’m too fat,” said Peet, who was barely on specifics about any of his future “I’m the love interest of Jay Baruchel’s character. showing in her Dries Van Noten men’s coat and plans in the fashion industry. “I’m She’s an NYU student, a deejay and they get APC dress. very active and I have many possible involved in all this magic,” said Palmer of the role Peet has quite a full plate. In addition to her projects, but I don’t have anything in her first action flick. “I actually do all my own pregnancy, she has the highly anticipated movie besides that. I know what you’re stunts in it. I was like, you know, I’m an Aussie girl; “Please Give,” coming out in April, from Nicole looking for,” he said with a grin. I’m tough; I want to stick it out and do it.” Holofcener, director of “Friends with Money” and So instead, as Anna Wintour, Also juggling some work and play was Kerry “Lovely & Amazing.” Peet plays a tanning bed-addicted Leigh Lezark and Maggie Rizer milled Washington, starring on Broadway in the David Mamet play aesthetician alongside co-stars Catherine Keener, Oliver about, Theyskens turned the topic “Race,” whose run has been extended through June. “It’s Platt and Rebecca Hall. She will be at the Berlin Film of conversation toward his newly fairly athletic, but it’s great. When you love your job, you Festival, going on now, to promote the project. shorn, shoulder-length locks. “I cut feel like you’re not working,” she said, fingering a sparkling “[‘Please Give’] is really good,” Peet said. “And I it really shorter, and it already grew,” Olivier Movado bracelet. Washington is a longtime don’t always get to say that about the movies that Theyskens said of his mane. “This is Theyskens friend of Wu, having first encountered one of his SAmanda Peet I’m in.” my project, cutting my hair.” STEVE LEXIE MORELAND; EICHNER ALL OTHERS BY THEYSKENS PHOTO BY

6 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 Reed Krakoff Readies for Launch By Marc Karimzadeh less steel works of Ron Arad and Joseph Beuys’ felt suit. The German artist, in REED KRAKOFF SITS IN THE ART- AND fact, serves as a major inspiration to book-filled office he uses for his new name- Krakoff, for “the way he looked at his art. sake brand, and reflects on the last year. It was extremely organic and natural — It’s been a busy few months. In a rela- the materials, his approach, his involve- tively short period of time, Krakoff creat- ment of science and theory. ed the concept for his new brand, which “At the same time, there was some- will be unveiled with a runway show on thing sensuous and organic to what he Wednesday; designed the line of utilitar- did,” he adds. “I think that mix of those ian sportswear, luxurious leather hand- two things — the intellectual side and bags and shoes, and oversaw the produc- the organic and tactile side — is some- tion process, which is now culminating thing I really react to.” with first samples arriving at his 516 West Krakoff said reimagining American 34th Street base. Krakoff has done all sportswear in such a strong, almost work- this while fulfilling the duties of his other wear way is less about the time than his job as president and executive creative personal evolution. director of Coach, the iconic American “It’s more about, ‘What is my personal brand he helped reinvent into an acces- aesthetic?’” he says. “What do I feel is sories giant over the past decade. natural and believable, and something Where other designers may show that I believe in? I do think that American signs of stress or runway jitters, there design is incredibly important in the is little room for such sentiments chez world of fashion and the world of design Krakoff. On this day, and several days and architecture. It’s very inspiring and later during the blizzard that brought fertile, and that’s really more the reason. much of New York City to a halt, Krakoff “The real excitement for me is that is the picture of calm. I’ve really been able to focus in a very “There’s an expression: ‘Water finds its narrow way on ready-to-wear and on level,’” he says. “If it’s something you real- creating a real holistic approach to how ly feel passionate about, you find a way.” that woman looks in terms of the cross- Passion is something Krakoff has ex- categories, like what is evening in this hibited over the last 13 years at Coach, world and what is day? And what do we where he, in tandem with Lew Frankfort, want to stand for? What is really the look chairman and chief executive officer, has of the collection?” played an instrumental role in trans- The brand is positioned at the de- forming a dusty, $500 million American signer level, and in addition to targeting leather goods label into a $3 billion pow- upscale specialty and department stores, erhouse — in the process, creating a Krakoff will open his first freestanding business model that many peers looked store at 831 Madison Avenue between to emulate, but to which none have man- 69th and 70th streets this August, with aged to come close. plans for several more units nationwide At Coach, Krakoff describes his role and internationally. as a brand architect, successfully filter- Graziano de Boni, president of the ing his design vision for the accessible Reed Krakoff business, said the company luxury brand through the Coach lens and is looking at the new brand as an opportu- its needs to address a geographically and nity from the consumer point of view. He demographically diverse customer. For declined to make first-year sales projec- the first time in a career that took him tions. “We will be bringing a new, design- from Parsons School of Design to Anne driven collection with a lot of innovation, Klein with Narciso Rodriguez, and then craftsmanship and quality and price,” says to Polo Ralph Lauren and to Tommy de Boni, who joined from Prada USA. “We Hilfiger, Krakoff is able to express his know that, over the last 10 years, between own vision, pure and unadulterated, the boom and the deflation of the Great and, better yet, with Coach’s financial Recession, there has been a whole new prowess behind him. The Reed Krakoff market created in the luxury world. The company is a wholly owned division of retail world is looking for new opportuni- Coach and, as such, represents another ties and new brands, and novelty and new- avenue of potential growth for the par- ness, and we want to be one of them. We ent group. want to be a very important brand in this To those who know Krakoff and his af- new decade in this new millennium.” finity for art, architecture and industrial In addition to its own freestanding re- design, it comes as no surprise that his It’s been a lot of work, a lot of trial and error, a lot tail, de Boni says the distribution strat- vision is built on the utilitarian ideals of egy calls for wholesale accounts strategi- American sportswear. He hopes to evolve “of refining and kind of standing back, taking another cally selected in the beginning, as well as the Seventh Avenue ideal with an injection e-commerce. of sensuality for his new designer brand. approach, getting to the idea of this woman that we “We want to be strategic in that re- “To me, it’s very much a reembracing spect, and make sure that the brand and of American sportswear and the heritage are trying to portray. the business are cultivated in the right of American design, but reimagining and way, capturing the new consumer need reinterpreting and looking at it in a new ” — Reed Krakoff in the designer world that is out there,” way,” he says of the collection. “I love de Boni says. American sportswear and grew up with As for Krakoff, some may wonder why it. I think, for me, it’s always a very fertile place for utilitarian-inspired ideas that he would want more — particularly with an already healthy career at Coach that has come out of construction, and materials, details and surface decoration. Everything garnered him the respect of industry peers and made him extremely wealthy. is an outgrowth of this utilitarian chic.” “My career has been a really organic experience,” Krakoff says. “For me, it’s im- As the first samples started to trickle into the showroom Wednesday, his vision portant to continue to grow and challenge myself, and be inspired and explore new crystallized. Outerwear plays a key role in the collection, with constructed coats areas. It’s also a much more focused and pointed experience for me. The other ex- loosely culled from military styles, but more refined and abstracted in their execu- perience is more about brand architecture and being able to holistically manage all tion. Working with his design team and stylist Melanie Ward, Krakoff balances the these variables that make something successful.” structure with a soft, silk wool top and an alpaca and twill skirt, and he tops the look Coach and Reed Krakoff are being kept completely apart with separate teams and off with a cool take on the beret in mohair and napa. offices, and Krakoff says working on both has helped each. “Between the concept in your mind and what it actually looks like, there’s a lot of “When I’m on one side, I have a little distance from the other,” he says. “It really room,” Krakoff says. “It’s been a real journey, in a way, to get to the place where the cloth- keeps it very clean in my head. It’s helpful for me to go between the two. I think they ing and the woman are starting to become a reality. The words always come easy. It’s been inform each other. They help give me a little distance and keep me inspired. But it’s a lot of work, a lot of trial and error, a lot of refining and kind of standing back, taking an- a very different experience, and it’s something I’ve really enjoyed.” other approach, getting to the idea of this woman that we are trying to portray.” The new brand is likely to expose a new side of Krakoff that few have seen before The woman is likely to be well versed in Krakoff ’s frame of references, which de- — one he says is completely different from his work at Coach. Unlike most of his veloped over the years, whether it’s sportswear references such as Bonnie Cashin, a peers, who create a designer apparel line first before moving into a more mainstream collaboration with artists Claude and François-Xavier Lalanne or his photography of realm, Krakoff is all too aware that he is on a reverse course, and he likes it, not least Ultimate Fighter martial artists. because it has given him an insight into designing as a means to sell. His inspiration board ranges from Patti Smith — “When I think of Patti, I think of “It has to be real. It can’t be clothes just for the runway,” he says. “I find it is a a masculine-feminine take on clothing and of a uniform, the way she wears tailored real trap to do clothes just for image. You have to create things that help you start to clothing and puts things together with a mannish boot and a more tailored jacket,” explore what the brand is about. People are so smart and so sensitive to what’s out he said — to Walker Evans’ “very American, simple but quite refined images,” stain- there. People are so informed that everything you do has to be real.” WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 7 WWD.COM

A melton wool coat, silk and wool top and alpaca and twill skirt.

Leather goods and accessories from the new Reed Krakoff line. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

Chado Jason WuRalph Jason Wu Ralph Rucci Rucci

Chado Ralph Rucci

For more fall looks, see WWD.com.

Mixed Company A MASCULINE-FEMININE THEME RAN THROUGHOUT THE COLLECTIONS AS SOME DESIGNERS PLAYED ONE AGAINST THE OTHER, WHILE THE MEN’S WEAR LINEUPS WERE PURE TESTOSTERONE. WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 9 WWD.COM

Yigal Yigal 3.1 Azrouël Azrouël Phillip Lim

collections/fall NEW ’10 YORK PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

Jason Wu: For those who thought Jason Wu’s pre-fall collection — tougher, Sometimes a Rucci design trick can be fussy, but with his cream-colored more structured — might have signaled a lasting shift in the designer’s chiffon dress, narrow at the waist and worked into knots at the skirt direction, think again. Fall found Wu squarely back in the pretty, polished and shoulders, the impact was stunning. But there were often too many fold, his bread-and-butter currency thus far. But there were savvy flourishes — burnt ostrich feathers mixed with mohair; torn wool crepe on lessons picked up from that hard-edged detour, namely, terrifically meaty a silk dress — all trying too hard to illustrate his artistic persuasions. Yet sportswear and a healthy dose of men’s wear influences: ascot-collared if some of Rucci’s risk-taking moments were overwrought, his creations shirts, lush angora coats, tuxedo jackets and an excellent hooded wool were a refreshingly urbane and a polished reflection of what a very parka. Most importantly, while younger designers often fall into one of two accomplished woman wants to wear. sportswear traps, tricked-out or dishwater dull, Wu worked a fine balance of quiet intrigue, mostly via combinations that worked a subtle artiness — Yigal Azrouël: Yigal Azrouël clearly had men’s wear on his mind. Its influence a plaid traveler coat paired with a striped sweater and sequined draped was obvious in his women’s collection, shown alongside his men’s line on skirt, for instance. Friday. In the former, tailoring — suits, specifically — emerged as the key Preshow, Wu noted that the collection was inspired by Irving Penn, both motif. “A woman who wears a suit has character,” said Azrouël backstage. photos of him by Alexander Liberman (the men’s wear pieces) and the “She knows what she wants. She’s tough.” Emphasis on tough, as Azrouël photographer’s own work. Those gold-leaf splatters on a satin sheath? A worked classic, tailored elements such as waistcoats and pleated trousers nod to Penn’s images of mudmen in New Guinea. (And that’s real gold, by in an aggressive direction. Blazers had leather and fur sleeves, and pants the way, to match the flaxen necklaces by Aurélie Bidermann.) Moreover, were slim and structured, some with seaming details that translated well Penn’s blurry platinum prints provided the starting point for Wu for his to patchwork sweaters and cocktail dresses, a few flaunting graphic crystal layering: halos of fuzzy washed mohair on T-shirts and vests by day and embroidery from Azrouël’s new Swarovski partnership. Such precision tulle overlays softening up constructed cocktail dresses. made for a strong evolution from the house’s recent slouchy streetwear As for evening, variations on spring’s feathery confections felt too mode, without losing its edge. familiar, but the real news came in the curvy veiled numbers — some For men’s wear, Azrouël steered his men away from their beachy roots charming in their girlish awkwardness and others, just awkward — as well toward a dark and aggressive realm that called for lots of washed black as plumped-up volume. Case in point: the pouf-skirted shantung frock leather, boiled tweed and sturdy mélange knits. The change was welcome, featuring an abstract “cigarette-burn” print, also inspired by Penn. but these ruffians had no discernible relationship to the polished women who shared their runway. And while hitting a lot of important trends — Fair Chado Ralph Rucci: Ain’t life grand? It sure is for Ralph Rucci, whose show Isle, contrast sleeves, cowl neck outerwear, long johns — Azrouël lost some invitation requested guests wear evening attire. While few attendees coherence in the bargain. heeded that suggestion, he did attract an imposing — and diverse — front row of fans: Martha Stewart, Patti Smith, Whoopi Goldberg and Fran 3.1 Phillip Lim: With a collection made for wild concrete terrain, Phillip Lim Lebowitz all took in his often beautiful but uneven collection. Rucci has refuted the notion that men must leave the city to seek adventure or get in always displayed a love of opulence and exquisitely executed detailing, but touch with primal values. He flooded his first men’s runway with distinctive in this collection, it was his most straightforward pieces — a lovely chiffon coats — sleek buttons, gleaming zippers and smooth leather components blouse and narrow gray cashmere skirt with not-too-high side slits; a terrific gave many of them a futuristic sheen. Protective elements like shin guards swingy taupe and black jersey shirtdress; even a spiraling black sable coat and fencing vests added rigor, which was offset by quirky tufts of fur and with horsehair inserts — that stood out as chic beauties. the easy silhouettes of belted jackets, cropped and pleated trousers and In his show notes, Rucci said he was driven forward by varying “levels a poncho. Burgundy and drab tans accented a mostly neutral palette. of seduction, ranging from blatant to subliminal.” By seduction, Rucci The breadth of proprietary accessories — shoes, gloves, bags, eyewear doesn’t mean sexy, but rather sophisticated, rendered via lace and chiffon — demonstrated Lim’s commitment to men’s. And while most of his peer paneling and sumptuous fabrics. Other materials offered texture, like group can’t seem to stop looking backward at heritage Americana, his vision sequins on a black mermaid gown or shirred taffeta on a smart wool dress. is worldly and modern. 10 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

Rag & Bone Rag & Bone Cynthia Rowley Doo.Ri

Buckler

Rag & Bone: As the temperature outside continued to drop, Marcus Wainwright and palette of navy, gray and black, and sending forth puffed-up coats that evoked the David Neville kept their girls under wraps in layer upon layer of hearty outerwear, silhouette of a young woman bracing herself against the elements. Rowley played Fair Isle knits, tweed jackets, plaid kilts and wool leggings galore. It was as if an up volume on chill-ready jackets in billowy fabric, and on dresses with bubble skirts English country closet exploded and their cool customers piled on the best bits. All and ties around the neck. Detailed gems included a quirky, peacock-festooned of which showed a thoughtful attention to detail, be it the fur-lined hoods, leather puffer and a sweet plum-hued blouse with see-through paneling. And save for a elbow patches and even the varied but clearly considered lengths and mix of few lemon and pink lace numbers, cocktail dresses and skirts were piled with textures — adding up to a great rustic romp. shimmering dark tassels and feathers. Haunting, quite, but the charm of Rowley’s Neville and Wainwright held their first stand-alone men’s presentation since past collections was noticeably missing. launching women’s a few years back, and it marked a powerful return to form. The collection was steeped in the ubiquitous Alpine trend, but their version was less literal Gilded Age: If the cast of “Gangs of New York” was obsessed with impeccable suits, than most, looking actually like fashion instead of gear. The designers showed off their artisanal organic denim and cashmere underwear, they’d resemble the fall lineup at talent for tailored topcoats, which were layered over rustic sweaters or plaid tunics. Gilded Age. Designer Stefan Miljanic has finely honed a hand-crafted, turn-of-the- And while they continue to be inspired by military, they did not default to uniforms. century aesthetic that was beautifully evident in his cozy plaid shirts and rich Fair They worked traditional fabrics like loden into youthful pieces with rebellious flair. Isle sweaters paired with elegant tailoring and vintage Chippewa boots — for a look both masculine and lush. Cynthia Rowley: For a designer known for being perennially upbeat, Rowley veered into decidedly dark territory, setting her whimsical frocks and blouses in a moody Doo.Ri: Doo-Ri Chung savvily executed the idea of opposites, countering her WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 11 WWD.COM

Gilded Age Josie Natori

Ruffian

collections/fall NEW ’10 YORK PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, TODD MATARAZZO AND ROBERT MITRA AND ROBERT GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, TODD MATARAZZO GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, PHOTOS BY signature draping with sharp tailoring and military touches. The first two looks, Josie Natori: Josie Natori knows how to turn her personal brand of chic into a a sharp navy blazer with a gently draped hem worn over slim pants and a severe, serious business. Her newly launched ready-to-wear is pretty, lightly layered and stretch satin shirtdress that fell into a swirled skirt, were among the collection’s consummately wearable. The collection is replete with terrific jewelry, belts and best. The lineup felt more substantial than her recent outings. Strong jackets and bags that render a more glamorous attitude to her simple, sleek looks — easy slick pants with military flair struck a subtle power chord for daywear. Likewise for dresses in silk or leaner, gently draped shapes in matte or wool jersey. the ample bursts of color — bright red and multicolored crystal embroideries on While the designer opts for more basic cashmere or wool knits, there is cocktail dresses, furs and leggings, which Chung said were a new, and more durable plenty of texture and dimension in lace and jacquards for slim skirts and generation of the popular embellished tights she showed in the fall. jackets, and bulkier knits for shrugs and long cardigans. What a pleasure to find terrific-looking clothes that need no hype and offer affordable ($175 to $295) Ruffian: Though Brian Wolk and Claude Morais built their outing around more mature luxury. variations of their go-to themes, the collection was anything but stale. The jackets were exquisitely tailored; some were sharp and reflected Ruffian’s military vibe Buckler: “On the Road” was the starting point for designer Andrew Buckler’s fall while others were softer and featured playful, trompe l’oeil silk panels in lieu of collection. The jazzy, poetic vibe of Jack Kerouac’s voice was instilled in intricately standard lapels and collars. The prints were creative as ever, such as an image of the adorned intarsia sweaters, Jackson Pollock-inspired prints on flannel shirts and Orion Nebula taken by the Hubble telescope, inspired by human perspectives on the artfully draped drop-crotch trousers. Buckler also introduced a line of made-to- cosmos (an idea that showed up on everything from a cocoonlike coat derived from measure suiting, under the Gansevoort Tailors label, adding a posh new element to the shape of the crescent moon to a bouclé fabric based on van Gogh’s “Starry Night.”) his signature downtown attitude. 12 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

Chadwick Bensoni Cynthia Standard Cushnie et Ochs Bell Steffe Finery

collections/fall Chadwick Bell: Inspired by Emmet Project Runway: Joined by fellow judges Nina Garcia, Michael Kors Gowin’s aerial photographs, and guest judge Faith Hill, Heidi Klum warned the audience at Chadwick Bell presented ’10 The Tent on Friday that they would be in for a very long show his most polished, cohesive with 10 contestants each showing their collection. While there collection to date. Where seemed to be a peculiar agreement amongst those 10 on certain Gowin explored the design themes — peaked shoulders, pockets with volume, relationship between man and turquoise colorblocking — some inevitably fared better than the land, Bell explored the NEW others. Jay Nicolas Sario did cool snug vests and coats, those relationship between woman strong shoulders made less aggressive in colors like cinnamon and fabric. Silhouettes were and black; toward the end, Amy Sarabi displayed real technical stark and the color palette muted — and luxe wools with a skill in her pintuck-pleated dresses. Elsewhere, Anthony slight sheen took center stage. His dresses were elaborately Williams offered disco clothes that had a sexy, lighthearted draped, such as a wool mohair version with a scarf detail under YORK edge (particularly a bright blue skinny pant and black fringe a shearling jacket, while darts meticulously placed out of view gave top) and Emilio Sosa brought levity with a green toggle coat and looks more fluidity. a few simple bright shifts. The rest of the pack struggled to hit a consistently creative and wearable note, though the crowd’s Bensoni: Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon are no strangers to the enthusiasm was a reminder that on the runway, middling fashion ladified look. But this go-around, the designers took aim at a more December, less May sort of is often indistinguishable from entertainment. dame: a Connecticut grandmother and her closet. The translation? Models sporting old-biddy buns, the occasional quaint vintage hat and clothes that evoked a bygone magpie feel. Plaids Jay and haberdashery tweeds were everywhere — “We wanted fabrics that looked old,” said Yoon, Nicolas preshow — on nipped-waist jackets, robe-like coats, shorts and ruffled pencil skirts. Ruffles, in Sario fact, played a major role in the dressier cocktail portion, perhaps too repetitively, as did “mumsy” florals. And while the end result was plenty uptown posh, it left one yearning for a counterpoint of Bensoni spunk.

Cynthia Steffe: Designer Shaun Kearney took the Steffe girl for a jaunt through Sloane Square, kitting her out in tweedy miniskirts and leather vests in a collection that will surely resonate with the label’s core customer. Awash in rich browns and creams, the clothes evoked a fresh take on preppy basics, as with a striped wool knit T and a short tweed skirt with peek-a-boo chiffon kick pleats. The topper offerings, like a roomy cape with leather piping and the fur-trimmed parka, were just as polished.

Standard Finery: Refreshing is the word that comes to mind with newcomer Caron Callahan’s collection, faintly inspired by the Met’s recent “Art of the Samurai” exhibit. These are quietly confident, thoughtful clothes — Callahan doesn’t chase after edginess or extremes — that work the posh side of dressing without being too precious. Highlights include the gentle bias-cut dresses, lush wool coats and embroidered scarves, skirts and camis cut from traditional Pakistani quilts.

Cushnie et Ochs: Drawing on Charles Darwin’s theory of transmutation of species, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs explored raw materials and handcrafted techniques. They worked their touch with a crinkled leather jacket, ponyskin dress and feathered top, interlacing braided knits and Anthony a knit sweater with fox fur sleeves. The duo also offered plenty of variations on their body-con Williams dresses, some with sexy cutouts. This season they attempted to create a full lifestyle collection, at

times with success but often forced, such as the sculptural 3-D pieces and circular cutout leathers. MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 13 WWD.COM

Accessories presentations went from the wild, like Kara Ross’ skins, to the more civilized this season with pieces such as polished hats at Yestadt Millinery and Jonathan Kelsey heels. Other styles had a more forthright, street-savvy appeal. With platform shoes at Alejandro Ingelmo, jewelry in mixed media at Lizzie Fortunato and footwear with plenty of laces at Esquivel Finish Line Shoes, designers offered a myriad of creative ways to finish off every look. Jonathan Yestadt Kelsey Millinery

Reece Hudson

Kara Ross Pour la Victoire

Esquivel Shoes

Lizzie Fortunato

Alejandro Ingelmo Anya Hindmarch

Our Lord & Saviour: Designer Jason Salstein’s lineup is a skins in Italy and produces out of a New York atelier, and the superluxe capsule collection of croc and python clutches pieces will sell for up to about $8,000. “People might think affixed with, yes, hand-carved crucifixes, but don’t let your it’s blasphemous, but I love religion, and I don’t mean it to jaded fashion self be fooled by the surprisingly austere be exploitative in any way,” he said. The bags will be sold at pieces’ roots: Salstein is an unabashed Miami and New the Webster in Miami, and Salstein is pursuing retailers in York-bred Jew. Formerly of Hunting Season and VBH, Russia, Japan, and Paris. Next season he plans to include Salstein “wanted to do something that was set apart [and] lamb and mink in the collection, and bags “tattooed with I find religion magnetic and beautiful.” Plus, he points imagery of the Last Supper, as well as angels and cherubs,” out, his born-again grandfather once christened him in the Salstein said. “It’s not for everybody,” he added, and then, family pool. letting slip a bit of his own cultural heritage, “and that’s my The line consists of four sleek clutches. He sources his spiel.” 14 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

Get ready for another whirlwind of muses and inspirations, from the classic (Dunaway, Dietrich) to the curious (monsters and UES camping). — Venessa Lau, with Fierce About Fashion contributions from Alex Badia

collections/fall NEW YORK ’10 INSPIRATIONS

“Gremlins.” — Narciso Rodriguez

Desk by JIHAE KIM LIM BY JERRY BAUER/AP; BY PHOTO BY SPARK Charles Rohlfs.

“This season I am exploring deeper into the idea of sensual, utilitarian reconstruction.” — Zac Posen

“The American Arts and Crafts Movement, which celebrated handcrafted artisan design in response to the mass-produced products of the Industrial Revolution.” — Anna Sui

“Untitled 1960-98,” by Jannis Kounellis WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 15 WWD.COM

“Breakin’ hearts and takin’ names since 1978.” — Betsey Johnson

“A landscape that takes you away.” “It’s cool, easy, chic, — Catherine Malandrino, Malandrino for life in the wild city.” — Phillip Lim, 3.1 Phillip Lim, men’s

“The Thjórsá Rover” by Yann Arthus-Bertrand. “So she will cut her dress.” — Phillip Lim, 3.1. Phillip Lim “Polished elegance” — Oscar de la Renta

“The proportions are very different than what people expect “‘Mad from Thom Max’!” Browne.” — Mark Badgley — Thom Browne and James Mischka, “My muse this season Badgley Mischka is Muriel Spark: witty, elegant and British.” — Peter Jensen

A Robert Longo charcoal drawing. “It’s a reimagining of what defi nes sexy; a collision of chaos-chic.” “Mystery, — Jill Stuart Fantasy, Awe.” — Joseph Altuzarra, Altuzarra 16 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

“Untitled,” 1995, by Christopher Wool.

S “Myths of the West.” — Derek Lam

Warren Beatty in the 1971 film “McCabe and Mrs. Miller.” S “I’ve incorporated what I’ve learnt about garment construction from doing my first men’s collection but [am] breaking the rules: A collision of two cultures juxtaposes somber-toned tailoring next to riots S“Playful of joyful color.” and preppy — Maria Cornejo, — Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, Proenza Schouler Zero + Maria Cornejo sportswear, spirited American S “An ease.” homage — Tommy Hilfiger, men’s to the great women who traveled “Rebel.” the globe — Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection, men’s

Marlene Dietrich in the 1932 in style.” film “Shanghai Express.” — Elie Tahari S “The collection, inspired by the works of Gerhard Richter and Pablo Picasso, is all about individual expression and creating a look that suits your personal style — be it urban, artistic or more rock ’n’ roll” — Tory Burch

“Slope,” 1988, by Gerhard Richter. An artwork by Banks Violette. WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 17 WWD.COM more, more, more . . . “Mixing and layering textures, prints and colors are the “New dimensions.” way to go!” — Adrienne Landau — Donna Karan “Cozy, cosmopolitan chic.” — Kristiina Salminen, Adrienne Vittadini Collection

“I was really inspired this season by technology and animation, in particular the trailer for the new 3-D movie ‘Tron.’ I love the idea of using classic silhouettes and combining futuristic details.” — Alejandro Ingelmo, men’s

S “[Director] Sergei Parajanov, cinema, rock, folklore, politics and poetry blend together to create a strong and innovative image.” — Alexandre Herchcovitch collections/fall “A wonderland of surprises!” — Stacey Bendet, Alice + Olivia

’10 “Inspired by Jack Kerouac’s ‘On the Road.’” NEW YORK — Andrew Buckler, Buckler INSPIRATIONS “‘Midnight Cowboy’ or the Hutterites of Montana.” — Antonio Azzuolo

“Russian Constructivism.” — Araks Yeramyan, Araks

“Fall pays homage to one of the most influentialS fashion icons: Prince.” — Kimora Lee Simmons

S “Woody Allen around the time of ‘Sleeper,’ an Aspen ski lodge at about the same time, Joan Didion, street vendors, and Manhattan submerged after the ultimate snowstorm.” — Scott Sternberg, Band of Outsiders

“The floral motifs of Raoul Dufy, who opened the design world to a spirit of joy and ease.” — Barbara Tfank

“Machine oil, heavy needled, built construction, natural wool jeans, copper stills and 29ers, pipes, worked-over fabrics, nutria, America, damn it!” — Billy Reid

S “Tousled panache.” — Brian Reyes

“In my youth, I always wondered why we live in the world of sharp corners — rectangles and squares. Furniture, books and other tangible objects.” — Bumsuk Choi, General Idea

“Versatility with sustainable and fashionable clothing for the woman on the go.” — Christine Marchuska and Brooke Bresnan, c. marchuska ION; CORNEJO BY MARIA CORNEJO; ION; CORNEJO BY VIOLETTE BY SANDER; CHAI MEN’S BY JESSE FROHMAN SANDER; CHAI MEN’S BY “I wanted to take Latin sensuality and update it in a straightforward way for the modern muse.” — Carlos Campos

“Geometric abstract art and its pure colors, photomontages and Constructivist architectural engineering.” — Carlos Miele

“A bejeweled fantasy.” — Custo Dalmau, Custo Barcelona S “A feminine and sophisticated combination of “Pump up the volume.” — Cynthia Rowley

graphic framing and classic Halston drape, seen “Innocence, irresponsible from a perspective of shortened proportions.” Unconscious knowledge A moment and work full of uncertainty. — Marios Schwab for Halston Intensity, free association, displacements.” — David Delfin, Davidelfin S “The great Venus de Milo. She represents strength and beauty from all angles. She is both architectural and feminine.” — Dennis Basso

“The power “Modern urbanism.” — Donna Karan, DKNY of motion.” “Graffiti painting is accessing layers, paint — Max Azria, slapped and dripped with a finish that is an Hervé Léger elegant contradiction.” — Douglas Hannant “There will always be an England.” — Daniel Silver and Steven Cox, Duckie Brown

“Midcentury urban architecture — glass and steal New York city landmarks like the Philip Johnson-designed Seagram Building and Gordon Bunshaft’s Lever House, as well as “123 Wrapped Floor” by Christo and Jeanne-Claude. Saarinen’s TWA Terminal.” BANKS VIOLETTE © 2008 GLADSTONE GALLERY; CHRISTO AND JEANNE-CLAUDE BY CHEN CHAO; SCOTT BY L’WREN SCOTT; CORNEJO MEN’S BY AUGUST CORNEJO MEN’S BY SCOTT; L’WREN CHEN CHAO; SCOTTBANKS VIOLETTE BY CHRISTO AND JEANNE-CLAUDE BY © 2008 GLADSTONE GALLERY; WOOL COURTESY OF CHRISTOPHER WOOL AND LUHRING AUGUSTINE, NY; “MCCABE AND MRS. MILLER” AND “SHANGHAI EXPRESS” BY EVERETT AND “SHANGHAI EXPRESS” COLLECT “MCCABE AND MRS. MILLER” BY NY; AUGUSTINE, OF CHRISTOPHER WOOL AND LUHRING WOOL COURTESY — Elie Tahari, men’s 18 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

S “A man’s life in a woman’s body.” — Diane von Furstenberg

S “The collegiate bad girl.” — Chris Benz

S “Textures and scales.” — Behnaz Sarafpour

collections/fall NEW YORK ’10 INSPIRATIONS

“...and you got the motion.” — Prabal Gurung

S “Inspired by Bernardo Bertolucci’s ‘Il Conformista,’ set in — Thakoon Panichgul the wake of Italian “Movement.” Futurism, during the era of Mussolini and the golden age of aviation, this collection captures the essence of the Italian modernist lifestyle.” — Bibhu Mohapatra

“It’s a handsome collection that evokes men’s wear at night. It remains true to the classic and easy nature of Perry Ellis sportswear, but the tones and palette of this season are richer, darker and more seductive in sophistication.” S

— John Crocco, Perry Ellis From the book “Le Defile” by Regine Chopinot. WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 19 WWD.COM more, more, more . . .

“I was inspired by the luscious layers and colors of the inside of the stomach.” — Elise Øverland

“A wayward Glasgow youth descended from Scottish royalty who dresses roughly but has not forgotten the style of his noble forebears.” — Robert Geller

“Whistle while you work.” — Swaim and Christina Hutson, “From the Generra, men’s craggy,

shattered S “Bruce Davidson’s landscape gang images, free seen on the masons, Native Galápagos Americans and the Islands to Fox sisters.” the graphite — Gary Graham works by Vija Celmins of “It has been said that lunar floors New York City makes and nighttime up for its hazards skies.” and its deficiencies — Lela Rose by supplying massive dose of belonging to something unique, cosmopolitan, mighty and unparalleled.” — Stefan Miljanich, Gilded Age S “Signature denim construction techniques that challenge the boundaries of raw denim.” — design team, G-Star

“The G-Star NY RAW Collection continues to focus on denim experimentation using an innovative metal treatment in bronze and blue resulting in a shiny, metallic denim look.” — Shubhankar Ray, G-Star Raw, men’s — Victoria Beckham

S “Sleek yet textural.” — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel

“Upper East Side camping trip.” — Isaac Mizrahi

“Hanger appeal.” — Jeremy Scott ENDEL BY RYAN MCGINLEY/COURTESY MCGINLEY/COURTESY RYAN ENDEL BY OF LIONS GATE ENTERTAINMENT OF LIONS GATE “A journey through the Latin American landscape: from

S “Opulent collage — an alien Buenos Aires, west to Patagonia and into Chile; the rugged spine of the Andes to Machu Picchu, and then the force of cadence echoes the Peruvian Amazon to the Guajira Peninsula in Colombia.” across sand-blown — Juan Carlos Obando dunes…”

Carolina S — Rachel Roy Herrera “‘Sound of Music’ meets Bob Dylan.” — Karen Walker

S “I was inspired by this amazing book “The collection is vibrant, energetic and my husband gave me for my birthday, youthful with a ‘Kool-Aid’ palette of color ‘The Paintings of Ross Bleckner.’ blocks.” — Christophe LeMaire, Lacoste The colors and magical elements in [Bleckner’s ‘Deathlessness’ painting] “The surreal, dreamlike works of really struck a chord with me.” Salvador Dalí and his colorful, — Rebecca Taylor flamboyant life in Catalonia, Spain.” — Johanna Uurasjarvi, Leifsdottir

BUENA VISTA/WARNER BROS.; TAYLOR BY ROSS BLECKNER; BALE COURTESY BY BROS.; TAYLOR BUENA VISTA/WARNER “The fall collection A work by Louise Nevelson. takes its initial inspiration from the Futurist art movement whose manifesto embraced the concept of divisionism: breaking light and color down into stippled dots and stripes.” — Paul Marlow, Loden Dager

“I have been researching the life and work of “The kids from ‘The Lord of D.H. Lawrence. Think Oliver Reed in “Women in Love,” but with an American twist.” The Flies’ from last season have — John Bartlett, men’s grown up, worked at Wall Street

and now use their compensation S “The diverse roles of women in today’s society, exemplified through architectural sculpture and to sojourn in Peru.” Christian Bale in the 2000 contour and the juxtaposition of polar opposites. film “American Psycho.” — Siki Im The result is a new spin on refined sex appeal.” OF TEAM GALLERY; WALKER BY RICHARD AVEDON; BECKHAM COURTESY OF BECKHAM COURTESY RICHARD AVEDON; BY WALKER OF TEAM GALLERY; SARAFPOUR COLLAGE PHOTO BY BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR; MOHAPATRA COLLAGE BY BIBHU MOHAPATRA; GURUNG BY TYLER ROSE; ROSE BY LELA ROSE; J.M TYLER ROSE; ROSE BY GURUNG BY BIBHU MOHAPATRA; COLLAGE BY MOHAPATRA BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR; COLLAGE PHOTO BY SARAFPOUR — Raul Melgoza, Luca Luca 20 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010

S “The tension of two opposite aesthetic ideals: tradition vs. future.” — Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, Y-3

collections/fall NEW YORK ’10 INSPIRATIONS S “The OpArt lamps of Gregorio Vardanega were inspiring when I was choosing the vivid and bursting hues of the theme ‘Times Square,’ a reference renowned for its bright, colorful lights.” — Christophe Lemaire, Lacoste, men’s

S “Fall 2010 reveres the “This season, we satirical circus travels of the are inspired by incomparable Lola Montez.” transient landscapes.” — Georgina Chapman, Marchesa — Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Rodarte

Tyra Banks in a spring 1993 Ralph Lauren ad. S“I’m in a romantic, bohemian mood.” — Ralph Lauren

S “Architectural. Modern….A twist Mick and Bianca Jagger, 1971. of Eastern culture “All about ease.” and Western — Michael Kors influence.” — Monique Lhuillier S “The collection juxtaposes the nostalgic and graceful temper of the Parisian ateliers of the Sixties with the pioneering statement suiting of Seventies New Wave tailor Tommy Nutter.” — Simon Spurr WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 21 WWD.COM more, more, more . . .

S “For fall, rustic country fare gets a sharp city bite.” — Tracy Reese

S “Turner on the Loire.” — L’Wren Scott S “I was inspired by the men close to me in my life: my husband, Mark; my son, Joey, and close male friends — for their authenticity, timelessness and edge.” — Maria Cornejo, Zero + Maria Cornejo, men’s

“The secret lives “Starting with a blank page, uncut fabric, the collection finds solace in of Englishmen.” the starting point.” — Matthew Ames — Michael Bastian “Minimalism reconstructed.” — Max Azria

“Lacrosse.” — Michael Bastian, Gant by Michael Bastian, men’s S “The collection “The artsy, chic girls of Paris’ Left Bank are my inspiration.” is inspired by the — Michelle Smith, Milly incomparable artist “The fall collection explores faded, disillusioned Hollywood glamour, with a twist of naughty royalty Beatrix Ost.” and lots of glitter.” — Ashley Olsen and — Emma Hill, Mulberry Mary-Kate Olsen, The Row “Memories of a faraway place…the blurring of time and sensibilities.” — Nanette Lepore

S “Petrou/Man draws inspiration from the elemental palettes of rainy skies, gradient limestone and cool metals.” “Doubling Back, 2003” by Anthony McCall. — Nicolas Petrou, Petrou/Man, men’s

“I had Lauren Hutton from the early Seventies in mind when I started sketching for fall.” — Nima Taherzadeh

“A clean, modern interpretation of silhouettes from the 19th century.” — Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, Ohne Titel RTE BY WOLFGANG TILLMANS; KORS BY ARTHUR ELGORT/CONDE NAST ARCHIVES; NAST ARCHIVES; ELGORT/CONDE ARTHUR BY WOLFGANG TILLMANS; KORS BY RTE “I found inspiration by infusing the dark romance and mystery

IENNIAL: PHOTO: HANK GARBER, COURTESY OF SEAN KELLY GALLERY, NEW YORK GALLERY, OF SEAN KELLY COURTESY IENNIAL: PHOTO: HANK GARBER, of Venice with a sleek modern edge of architectural seaming S“Suprematism, and linear embellishment.” — Pamella Roland Surrealism, math and “I was born in Milan and spent all my summers in a small the eye of photogra- village outside of Siena. I felt free, and I felt the power of nature. And the true stunning beauty of the arts. Milan was pher Berenice Abbott.” the opposite. It was reality. Industrial, gray, study, work, — Yeohlee Teng survival.” — Marcella Lindeberg, Paris 68 “Inspired by the multi-dimensional work of M.C. Escher, this collection is a study in perspectives and contrasts.” — Choonmoo Park, Parkchoomoo

“I imagined a new military aesthetic and looked closely at early Chinese PLA uniforms.” — Patrik Ervell

“Morphable, timeless unisex collection to create chromatically distilled silhouettes.” — Rad Hourani

“The collection’s inspiration is rooted in the British explorers of the early 20th century, focusing on serious weatherproof outerwear in traditional fabrics.” — Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, Rag & Bone, men’s

“The look is reminiscent of a Seventies Faye Dunaway in ‘Network’ and Steve McQueen in ‘The Thomas Crown Affair.’” — Douglas and Odile Benjamin, Raoul S “The sound of music.” “Sophisticated nonchalance.” — Richard Chai, Richard Chai, men’s — Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein “The work and relationship of Alice Springs and Helmut Newton.” JAGGER BY PATRICK LICHFIELD; BASTIAN BY RICARDO NUNES; TENG BY KAZIMIR MALEVICH; MCCALL INSTALLATION VIEW AT THE WHITNEY 2004 B VIEW AT KAZIMIR MALEVICH; MCCALL INSTALLATION RICARDO NUNES; TENG BY LICHFIELD; BASTIAN BY PATRICK JAGGER BY BANKS PHOTO BY SHEILA METZNER; YAMAMOTO COURTESY OF UNITED VISUAL ARTIST; LACOSTE BY ARTNET; MARCHESA COLLAGE BY MARCHESA; RODA COLLAGE MARCHESA BY ARTNET; LACOSTE BY ARTIST; OF UNITED VISUAL COURTESY SHEILA METZNER; YAMAMOTO BANKS PHOTO BY — Camilla Staerk, Staerk 22 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 “Preppy with a pop.” more, more, more . . . “Late Sixties American interiors, traditional East African — Tommy Hilfiger textiles, Gustav Klimt, travels to Turkey, Paris and India, as well as our friends in NYC.” — Max Osterweis, Suno

“The late Norman Parkinson and true British glamour.” — Alice Temperley, Temperley London

“We have immersed ourselves in the ancient philosophy and myth of alchemy.” — Gabriel Asfour, Angela Donhauser and Adi Gil, Threeasfour

S “Vibrant, layered textures — a chic sense of naiveté and playfulness.” — Thuy Diep, Thuy

“Napoleon and Josephine and the appeal of opposites — masculine meets feminine, draping paired with structure, and neutrals with high-contrast brights. The color palette is inspired by the photographs of Peter Beard.” — Amy Smilovic, Tibi

“Wisdom comes with winters.” — Timo Weiland, men’s

“The mannerisms of people talking instead of just listening to what they had to say.” — Tony Cohen For more, see WWD.com. “An exploration of form and a rediscovery

of artisanal techniques lead us to our idea of modern S beauty. It is time to abandon excess and return to a “It’s about creating the magical more pure way of dressing.” — design team, Tse feeling of dresses you had as a child.” “A story of hunted romance with a twist of false play.” — Sophie Theallet — Wenlan Chia, Twinkle by Wenlan “Fearless women who used ease, elegance and I: FIFTY YEARS OF STYLE” BY CHRISTINA GIORGETTII: FIFTY YEARS OF STYLE” BY practicality to push the boundaries of femininity.” “An opium — Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham, United Bamboo “Yin and yang, soft and strict.” den dippedS in — Vera Wang

velvet.” S — Alexander Wang “What’s your zodiac?” — Vivienne Tam

“This season, we were “True to our tradition, VPL follows S the anatomical template of the inspired by an officer and a body by slashing, slicing and gentleman. Utility combined dicing, fused with patchwork and with texture, and elegant form.” shadows.” — Victoria Bartlett, VPL — Anthony Keegan, Commonwealth Utilities S “Michael Kors and Valéry Giscard d’Estaing

enjoying après-ski at “The [painting] series ‘Against the Fall’ S Courchevel.” “Titled ‘Hair Culture,’ the collection is — Victor Glemaud by Isca Greenfield-Sanders.” inspired by all things coiffure: buns, braids — Adam Lippes, Adam Adam Lippes “The spiritual, soul- and locks, with the occasional tangle.” searching nomadic — Tom Scott biker journey of New America. Textures of leather, denim, lace and hand-crafted embellishments are gathered together spontaneously to form an eclectic S“The collection bohemian warrior expression.” is a combination — Johan and Marcella Lindeberg, William Rast between my “Disassembled and reassembled.” — Yigal Azrouël, men’s aesthetic and “Mkpuk Diesel’s unique Elba” by “Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas are inspired by the idea of Okhai juxtaposing heritage and classic values with an extreme know-how and Ojeikere. futuristic expression.” — Yohji Yamamoto, Y-3, men’s urban identity.” — Sophia Kokosalaki, “A collection of timeless beauties. An investment that

Diesel Black Gold IMAGE FROM “BRION AKIHIRO SAKAI; WANG KEEGAN BY DAUMAR; FRANCOIS-REGIS SCHUTZER/GETTY BY IMAGES; GLEMAUD PAUL HILFIGER PHOTO BY never goes out of fashion.” — Zang Toi WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 13, 2010 23 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

CLOSING SHOP: Anthony Nak, the 11-year-old CFDA Award-winning jewelry brand based in Austin, Johnson, Maria Samora and Veronica and Dylan Poblano in accessories and Patricia Michaels Tex., is closing. in ready-to-wear. Founders Michael Chapman and Gail Bruce secured funding from the Kellogg Co-founders Anthony Camargo and Nak Armstrong, who designed the collection, have parted Foundation and boast Donna Karan, Diane von Furstenberg, Nanette Lepore, Daryl Kerrigan and ways. Armstrong is readying to launch his own namesake line of one-of-a-kind fine jewelry pieces. Pamela Love among the participants. Camargo, according to Armstrong, has moved from Austin to Thailand. Camargo could not be reached for comment. FASHION DREAM: Diane von Furstenberg is no stranger to celebrities in her front row, but on The firm closed its Austin flagship boutique in January 2009, when it had all but stopped Sunday, she will have a special guest. Latoya Headley always dreamed of attending a fashion wholesaling jewelry. Only a small group of retailers continue to sell the last of their Anthony Nak show. She was diagnosed with glioblastoma multiforme, which paralyzed her from the waist inventory. The brand was once sold in top-tier fashion and jewelry stores such as Barneys New down, in 2007, and the 25-year-old recently wrote about her wish to the Dream Foundation. York. The company also has halted its line with QVC, which offered low-ticket items in silver with The Alexandria, Va., native also will lunch with Lyn Devon before attending the DVF show with semiprecious stones. “We started to go down this path mentally before the economy crashed,” said her sister, Naima, and on Monday will get a tour of the Oscar de la Renta showroom, lunch and Armstrong, who explained the duo simply had different goals. “I honestly believe we’d be going out a shopping experience at Bergdorf Goodman, and then head down to the West Village to take of this business regardless [of the recession] because we decided to move on individually.” in the fall Donna Karan Collection show. Diva Limos will be driving her around town, and Dream Foundation arranged for the airfare and hotel stay at Hotel Mela. “I have always had a passion COLD HEART TRUTH: Thursday night’s Heart Truth fashion show was for a good cause, but for style and fashion, so this is truly a dream come true for me,” Headley said. “I feel so blessed backstage, the celebrity models made no bones about plugging a few of their own. Estelle, by the way Dream Foundation — and these amazing designers — have rallied to make this a Kimora Lee Simmons, Heidi Klum, Felicity Huffman, Mamie Gummer and Kim Kardashian were incredible and memorable experience.” among the notables that donned designer red dresses to raise awareness about heart disease. Having whipped up some soon-to-be-unveiled jewelry with Rachel Roy, Estelle said she is P IS FOR PIQUE: According to Lacoste, A is for attitude. The retailer behind the iconic croc logo is in talks with different designers for an internship, “rather than just [putting] money into launching a book to pay homage to the brand, in the style of the ABC’s. Penned by French sports something.” Asked if Lady Gaga is ratcheting up the fashion quotient for musicians, Estelle said: writer Olivier Margot and published by Assouline, “Lacoste: The Element of Style,” recounts the “She’s doing her.” What? rise of the activewear house from the tennis court to the runway. Each volume is jacketed in the Fresh from the launch of her maternity line earlier in the day for Destination Maternity, Klum, brand’s signature piqué fabric. The 180-page tome doesn’t hit shelves until next month, but who wore a John Galliano frock, admitted that wide-eyed aspiring designers could use a reality those attending today’s Lacoste presentation will be given a copy. check. “It’s not like someone with a great voice who can go and sing anywhere. When you are a designer, you have to have sponsors and IN HONOR OF KEITH: On Thursday night, the House of Field launched its Paradise Garage Estelle in backers,” she said. “You can’t succeed just Collection to commemorate the death of controversial Eighties artist Keith Haring. “We have to Zac Posen. by pure talent. People love to put fashion keep his work alive for the younger generation,” Field said. Party girls Kelly Osbourne and Susanne shows together and to design clothes and they Bartsch made appearances and felt right at home in the alternative fashion/club kid crowd, all of think that’s it. But the fashion industry is very whom were sweating it out to a live performance by Danger Muse. After difficult to break into.” Gwen a quick runway show, the collection — which featured a few startlingly Simmons, whose “Life in the Fab Lane” Stefani wearable representations of Haring’s work in metallic and electric will soon return, was also candid about at Milk colored prints — was displayed on mannequins for the duration of the the state of things. In a dress from her Studios. party on the bottom floor of Good Units on 57th Street. forthcoming Kouture by Kimora label for Macy’s, she said, “It’s totally recession-proof GWEN AND FRIENDS: Gwen Stefani and fans celebrated L.A.M.B.’s fall shopping — meaning that a little cocktail collection at Milk Studio’s Surf Lodge outpost Thursday night. The dress is probably 40 bucks. I don’t want rocker-cum-designer greeted friends such as Josh Hartnett, Toni Braxton people to say, ‘Do I pay my electric bill this and Estée Lauder group president John Demsey, but like most fashion month, or go shopping?’” week goers, was still in shock over the news of Alexander McQueen’s Valerie Harper talked up her Tallulah death. “I didn’t know him personally, but he was an inspiration to us Kim Bankhead in “Looped,” which bows on all and his death is a tragedy for everyone who loved his work and loves Kardashian Broadway Thursday. Look for Kristin Chenoweth fashion,” Stefani said. “There is a dark cloud over us today.” in Marchesa. on the Great White Way

PHOTOS BY RAHAV SEGEV RAHAV PHOTOS BY in “Promises, Promises” with Sean Hayes this spring. Joan Collins plugged “Fetish,” an indie film in which she plays “a very interesting but rather sad actress — that is not really me.” Still gunning for her sixth Olympic Games, swimmer Dara Torres returned from the catwalk barefoot. “I’m rehabbing my knee and was afraid I would fall,” she said. “I’m more of a flats kind of girl.” Mother-to-be Bethenny Frankel hammed things up for photographers with comments like, “My baby is showing.” Kardashian in Marchesa was uncharacteristically buttoned up, ignoring questions and walking hand in hand with her beau, Reggie Bush of Super Bowl champs the New Orleans Saints. William H. Macy greeted his glammed-up “Desperate Housewives” wife Huffman with: “Talk about raising your heart rate.” Hers was already racing. “I’ve never been to a fashion show in my life. I am scared of that f–king runway. I just walked down the runway once,” the Oscar de la Renta-clad actress said. “If I had the choice of sitting for this event, I would choose that,” she said.

HIGH TIMES: Standing 6 feet tall doesn’t deter Brooke Shields from taking it up a notch. “I love heels. I love the way they make my legs look,” chimed the actress, who stopped by Saks Fifth Avenue on Thursday in a vertiginous pair of Jimmy Choo heels, Donna Karan sheath and Kimberly McDonald jewels for the launch of Choo’s 24:7 collection. “In the daytime, however, flats are a little more sensible to run around with my children.” “Gossip Girl” actress Jessica Szohr also stopped by the fete, which was hosted by Jimmy Choo president and founder Tamara Mellon, Saks’ chairman and chief executive officer Stephen I.

PHOTO BY CHANCE YEH/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM PHOTO BY Sadove and Harper’s Bazaar editor in chief Glenda

Brooke Shields and Bailey. “I’m a huge fan of Jimmy Choo,” said Szohr, www.chipforelli.com Credit: Tamara Mellon at Saks who donned a cherry red pair. “I’m looking for shoes Fifth Avenue. for fashion week.” THE TRAIN & THE BOX TIME ON SKATES: Just in the nick of time, Omega has signed Apolo Anton Ohno to serve as an ambassador for the brand. Ohno, the U.S. short course NEW YORK speed skating star, is a three-time Olympian and a top contender at the 2010 Games, which opened Friday. He has qualified for three individual events and THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADESHOW one relay event, and if he captures two medals, will surpass Bonnie Blair as the U.S.’ most decorated Winter Olympian. As part of his deal with Omega, Ohno will wear the company’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Olympic Timeless FEBRUARY 2010 AT THE Collection Chronograph and will visit the watch brand’s newly opened 20TH — 22ND TERMINAL STORES boutique in Vancouver following his races. He also will visit the Omega 269 11th Avenue flagship in New York City at the conclusion of the Games. Omega has been th th the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932. FALL/WINTER (bet. 27 & 28 Streets) 2010 — 11 New York, NY 10001 NO RESERVATION NEEDED: Thursday marked the launch of Unreserved, a fashion and art internship program that aims to pair Native American talent looking to develop their artistic and business skills with established www.thetrainnewyork.com designers and artists. To kick off the fashion aspect, the group held a contact: [email protected] showcase of six Native American designers — Maya Stewart, Kenneth