1. Oil change ...... 87
2. Maintenance and care ...... 89
3. Sprocket reversing/replacing ...... 90
4. Changing of brake discs ...... 91 5. Changing the gear mech 5.1 Removal of one-piece axle ring ...... 92 5.2 Removal of quick-change axle ring ...... 92 5.3 Mounting the external gear mech ...... 93
86 Service Service
1. Oil change An oil-change must be completed every 5000km or once perAnnum to ensure the 25ml quantity of oil is retained and is free from dirt/moisture contamination. This process ensures that theSPEEDHUB 500/14 will always contain enough oil for lubrication (regardless of oil lost due to sweat oil) and also ensures that any penetrated moisture is 3 4 5 rinsed out.
The Oil Change Kit consists of: A A 25ml cleaning oil in a 50ml POINTER B bottle* E B 25ml Rohloff SPEEDHUB OIL * There will already be approx. C Oil filling tube 25ml fluid in the hub (old oil and C D Non returnable syringe 50ml any penetrated moisture). After the E Drain screw with new seal cleaning oil is also filled into the hub then there will be approx. The oil filling tube should be Remove the drain screw (3mm Draw 25mlSPEEDHUB OIL into Fit a new oil drain screw and 50ml fluid to drain out. For this placed over the syringe and allen key) and refit the filling tube the syringe and insert this into the tighten correctly (Allen Key SW3, reason the cleaning oil comes in a secured with a drop of super-glue and syringe. Turn the wheel, so hub. Draw out approx. 25ml of air tightening torque 0.5Nm). As long 50ml bottle so that the old fluid D before use. that the filling point is underneath to keep the pressure correct inside as the thread sealant is not worn, can be drained out into this bottle the hub. Wait approx. 15mins with and therefore, avoid oil seeping then the old oil drain screw may be for safe disposal. the wheel in this position, then use back out, when removing the used repeatedly. the syringe to draw out the old filling tube. fluid. Remove the syringe and
filling tube, use this to empty the 5a fluid into the empty 50ml cleaning oil bottle. To rinse the hub properly, ride 1 2 approx. 1km or turn the wheel by hand using the cranks for approx. ATTENTION 3min whilst simultaniously The Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 swiching between gears #3 and #5. must be filled exclusively with ATTENTION In these gears all planetary gear Rohloff oils (gear box/cleaning Theoildrainscrewmustnotbe sets are in use, making sure that oils). The use of other types of insertedanyfurtherthanflush withthehubshell.Anydeeper the cleaning fluid is well rinsed lubricants and/or cleaning fluids through in order to thin out the old couldresultinperiodicdriveloss could lead to the damage of the incertaingears. oil for easier removal. inner mechanism's nylon components. Gefahr To change the oil, the Rohloff Draw the 25ml cleaning oil into Used oil should be taken to a Danger SPEEDHUB 500/14 should be left the syringe, screw the filling tube specialized oil disposal point, so as at room temperature (because the into the drain screw hole and fill to keep pollution levels down. oil flows better). Turn the hub, so the cleaning oil into the hub. After TIP H E A LT H H A Z A R D that the drain screw can be seen on this, use the syringe to draw out a Rohloff SPEEDHUB OIL and It is important to protect the brake the top. Remove drain screw (3mm little air out into the syringe. cleaning oil can be disposed of RohloffCleaningOilArt.No.8402-25ml,8407-250ml,8405-1L. disk/pads (if mounted) with a clean allen key). Remove the filling tube and refit together with other motor oils. cloth to minimize the possiblity Containsdistillates(petroleum),hydrotreatedlight.Maybefatalif the drain screw. that oil could spray out onto them. swallowedandentersairways.IF SWALLOWED:Immediatelycalla Do not expose to direct sunlight. POISONCENTERordoctor/physican.DoNOTincludevomiting. Storelockedup.ContainsPhenol, isopropylated,phosphate(3:1). Keep out of reach of children. Mayproduceanallergicreaction.
87 88 Service Service
2. Maintenance and care 3. Sprocket reversing/replacing
The shifter cable tension can be The sprocket sizes 15, 16 and 17 of theRohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 are symmetrical and are therefore reversable, 1 2 altered by the cable adjusters. When when worn on one side. After reversing the sprocket, fit a new chain. This will now pull on the other, unworn side of winding the cable adjusters out, the the sprocket. Once both sides are worn, the sprocket must be replaced. The 13 tooth sprocket is not reversable, and cable tension is increased. For the therefore, must always be replaced once worn. lightest possible gear change, the tension should be just enough, so 1 2 3 that on the twist shifter there is approx. 1/2 gear (2mm) rotational play, when in a selected gear. The dot on the twist shifter body can be aligned to the correct gear number without altering the cable tension, On the versions with an internal On the versions with an external by winding one cable adjuster in gear mech the cable adjusters can gear mech the cable adjusters can and the other out. be found on the cable guide. This be found on the cable box. This ATTENTION can be found on the left hand chain sits directly on the left hand side of stay or attached to the left hand the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14. Too much cable tension raises the brake boss of the frame. These cables are either routed Check that the seats on the driver Hold the sprocket tool steady with The sprocket can be removed over amount of friction within the shifter along the seatstay or the chainstay are clean so that the tool can be a 24mm wrench and using a chain the sprocket tool. When only cables and in turn, raises the force of the frame. properly seated. Place the sprocket whip turn the sprocket reversing the sprocket, clean the needed on the twist shifter to select tool over the clean seats of the anticlockwise in the opposite sprocket turn it over 180° and other gears. driver and with a quick release direction to the 24mm wrench. screw it back onto the cleaned and lever (CC) or an axle nut (TS) regreased thread of the driver in a secure in position, so that the clockwise direction. Tighten up the 3 4 5 sprocket tool is prevented from sprocket using the chain whip. If springing out of the seats. the sprocket needs to be replaced, 2a simply screw the new sprocket tightly onto the driver. POINTER Make sure that the area around the POINTER sprocket and hubshell is free from dirt, so that this cannot penetrate Placing the new/reversed sprocket into the gear-unit during this onto the driver over the sprocket tool helps the sprocket to sit evenly on the thread, so as to eliminate the When lubricating the chain, place a To lubricate the chain tensioner, Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 Possible ring of wear or damage ATTENTION on the seal surface. possibility of cross-threading. thin thread of lubricant on the place a drop of oil on the left and versions with external gear mech: Make sure that the sprocket outside of the chain over the centre right side of the upper jockey To lubricate the cable pulley remover tool is properly secured A drop of special Rohloff cleaning rollers. This process is carried out wheel on the pivot point. bearing, remove the cable box and correctly when mounting or ATTENTION oil (Art.No. 8402) through the quicker and easier, when running place a little grease on the parts dismounting the sprocket. Check the sprocket for signs of holes in the new sprocket face can the chain backwards whilst arrowed in the picture above. The sprocket should not be damage or wear caused by the hub drastically help reduce the effect of applying the lubricant. removed with the use of a bench- seal.If needed, reverse or replace it the crank rotation while pushing vice mounted sprocket remover for a sprocket with undamaged seal the bicycle ATTENTION tool. surfaces immediately. This will in When using a disc brake in conjunction with theRohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 , the hub cap screws should be Failure to comply could result in turn reduce the possibility that oil checked that they are correctly tightened before every ride. damage to the driver. could seep out. To reduce the chance of a flange breaking due to unequal spoke tension, we recommend that this is regularly checked by a professional bicycle mechanic. 89 90 Service Service
4. Changing of brake discs 5. Changing the gear mech
If the brake disc is worn or needs to be replaced by a different brake type, the rear wheel along with the axle plate will The replacement of the gear mech is normally only needed, when mounting the hub on a different bicycle frame. have to be removed before the replacement of the disc can be carried out. It is not routine work and we advise that this work is carried out by a professional bicycle workshop. 5.1 Removal of one-piece axle ring 1 L 2 3 M 1 2 3
old
Mark the axle plate, so that it can Remove the four mounting bolts M Pull the old brake disc off the be replaced later in the same (M8x 0.75 x 8.5 - 5mm allen key). center disc mount and remove this Regardless of which axle plate is Lie the wheel on a flat surface with position. Remove the axle plate over the external transfer box. TIP mounted, the axle plate must be the axle ring facing up and the screws(M4x 25 - Torx TX20) . Should the axle ring not loosen by ATTENTION removed by unscrewing all six of cable guides facing to the right. Remove the axle plate and secure hand, use a pipe wrench to hold the The external transfer box must the axle plate screws (M4x 25 - Rock the axle ring from side to the external transfer box to the hub axle ring tight (place cardboard not be removed as the cogs Torx TX20). side whilst pulling it upwards in with one of these screws L. between the axle ring and the pipe within the box could fall out of order to loosen it from the hub. synchroni-zation. See chapter wrench). Rock the axle ring from "Service" paragraph 5. side to side with the pipe wrench, "Changing the gear mech". whilst pulling it upwards in order to loosen it from the hub.
4 5 6 5.2 Removal of quick-change axle ring M
1 2 3
new
Place the new brake disc over Replace the four mounting bolts M The removal of the axle plate is the external transfer box and (M8x 0.75 x 8.5 - 5mm allen key, not necessary on the OEM down onto the center disc mount tightening torque 7Nm/61in.lbs.). versions, where the axle plate is (pay attention to the rotational Remove the axle plate screw L secured to the hub in the position Regardless of which axle plate is Lie the wheel on a flat surface with Remove the axle ring screw direction of the brake disc). from the external transfer box. shown in the above diagram. The mounted, the axle plate must be the axle ring facing up and the (M4x 20 - Torx TX20) and rock the Remount the axle plate in the brake disc can simply be removed removed by unscrewing all five of cable guides facing to the right. axle ring from side to side, whilst correct position and secure this in over the external transfer box and the axle plate screws (M4x 25 - Pull the cable guides with the pulling it upwards in order to place with the five axle plate the axle plate together. Torx TX20). nylon cylinders and the cable loosen it from the hub. screws (M4x 25 - Torx TX20, pulley upwards and out of the axle tightening torque: 3Nm/25in.lbs.).
91 92 Service Service
5.3 Mounting the external gear mech
correct 1 2 3 7 8 D E 9 C
D incorrect F
F
Shift the gearbox into gear #14 by Hold the aluminium nut on the Place the cable pulley over the Insert cogD over the hexagonal The five other mounting positions ATTENTION turning the hexagonal peg with an sprocket side with a 17mm wrench hexagonal peg of the external pegE with the toothing facing result in the screw holes of the outward. There is one mounting The wheel must not be laid on the 8mm wrench carefully in an anti- to prevent the axle from moving, transfer box and then rotate it until cable pulley being substantially position out of the possible six, axle ring side once the axle ring clockwise direction to the end stop. whilst selecting the gear. the two screw holes sit on the where the teeth of the cogD and more out of line with the center has been removed because: center lineF , as shown in the the sprocketC line up. In this lineF . In this case, remove the cog a. Oil could leak out of the holes. diagram above. Hold the cable position the screw holes of the D and try the next mounting b. The two freewheel springs could pulley in this position. cable pulley remain as close as position. possible along the center line fall out of the locating peg holes. F.This position is the correct position. It may be neccessary to turn the cable pulley lightly to the left or right to allow for an easier assembly. Grease 4 5 6 10 11 D E
D
Further steps for mounting the Place a new paper gasket over the locating pegs of the external transfer Mount the external transfer box Place a small amount of grease external gear mech can be found in box, so that all holes meet up with corresponding screw holes of the axle onto the gearbox. between the cog D and the external ATTENTION transfer box. Remount the axle chapter "Mounting", paragraph 7.3 ring. The smaller seal sits in the recess on the rear side of the axle ring. The smaller side of cogD must plate and secure it in the correct "External gear mech". always be mounted into the position with the five axle plate external transfer box facing screws (M4x 25 - Torx TX20, POINTER inwards. When cogD is wrongly tightening torque 3Nm/25” lbs.). The grub screw under the External mounted, the axle plate will cause Gear Mech should be fitted in the functional difficulties within the correct position. “Appendix - Grub screw of the External Gear external transfer box. Mech”. 93 94 Repairs
1. Changing the hub cable (0.9mm Rohloff special gear cable)...... 97 1.1 One-piece axle ring ...... 98 1.2 Quick-change axle ring ...... 104
2. Changing the chain tensioner spring ...... 108
3. Changing the grip rubber ...... 109 4. Exchanging the gear unit 4.1 Gear unit removal ...... 110 4.2 Gear unit installation ...... 111
5. Hub Seal replacement
6.Appendix Failure Diagnosis ...... 119 Trouble Shooting ...... 120 Tools and Bolts ...... 124 Wheel lacing with a European spoke-hole pattern ...... 125 Wheel lacing with a French spoke-hole pattern ...... 126 Technical Data ...... 127 Reference to Serial Number ...... 128 Threaded Pin under External Gear Mech ...... 129 The correct spoke choice ...... 130 Possible causes for flange breakages on bicycle hubs ...... 132 Twistshifter ‘light’RH -Art. #8206 - Mounting instructions ...... 134-137 Twistshifter ‘light’LH -Art. #8207 - Mounting instructions ...... 138-141 Notes ...... 142-151 Information over the newest version Owners Manual ...... 152 A selection of sprockets and the sprocket tool Index ...... 153-154
95 96 Repairs Repairs
1. Changing the hub cable (0.9mm Rohloff special gear cable) 1.1 One-piece axle ring
The method of replacement for a worn or broken hub cable can be carried out differently depending on which axle ring type is mounted. 1 2 3 1. Axle ring with pressed-in cable guides (one-piece axle ring with spare parts ‘Hub cables’Art. #8271) 2. Axle ring with cable guides seated within nylon cylinders (quick-change axle ring with spare parts ‘Hub cable Easy Set’Art. #8573 )
1 6x 2 5x
Remove the rear wheel. With good Unscrew both bayonet male To change the hub cables, the axle wire cutters, cut off the four cable connectors from the hub cables plate must be first removed. To do ties that hold the concertina tubes (M4x 4 - 2mm allen key) and this unscrew the six axle plate over the hub cables. remove the concertina tubes. screws (M4x 25 - Torx TX20).
The one-piece axle ring was The quick-change axle ring is ATTENTION mounted on all internal gear mech secured to the gear box with five versions until the beginning of axle plate screws. The axle ring Take note of the position of the 2003. This type of axle ring is remains secured to the gearbox axle plate against the hub cable secured to the gearbox with six with one more screw and the cable guides for correct refitment later. axle plate screws. The cable guides guides seated within black nylon of the one-piece axle ring remain cylinders rest in the axle ring. This 4 5 6 fixed to the axle ring. This can be can be seen once the axle plate has seen once the axle plate has been been removed. When replacing the removed. To replace the hub cable, hub cable, the axle ring remains the axle ring complete with the attached to the gearbox. cable pulley must be removed.
Replacement procedure Replacement procedure see paragraph 1.1. see paragraph 1.2.
POINTER To hold the axle steady, grip the Lie the wheel on a flat surface with When correctly mounted, the hub cable should last a good 10,000km. Should the cable get damaged and need to be long torque arm tightly or hold the the axle ring facing up and the TIP replaced sooner, the reason for this damage should be identified and corrected before mounting a new hub cable. OEM or OEM2 axle plate with a cable guides facing to the right. Should the axle ring not loosen by Possible reasons: 10mm wrench (see chapter Rock the axle ring from side to hand, use a pipe wrench to hold the 1. False alignment of the axle plate or the cable guide can result in the cable rubbing against the metal of the cable "Mounting", paragraph 4.3). side whilst pulling it upwards in axle ring tight (place cardboard adjusters/guides. (see chapter “Mounting”, paragraph 4.1.2). order to loosen it from the hub. between the axle ring and the pipe 2. Torque not properly secured. The hub axle rotated and streched the cables to breaking point. wrench). Rock the axle ring from 3. Other physical damage (eg. crashes, accidents). side to side with the pipe wrench whilst pulling it upwards in order to loosen it from the hub.
97 98 Repairs Repairs
7 8 9 13 14 15 Rear side with recess 14.
Groove Front side
The mounting of the cable pulley With an 8mm wrench turn the Next push the other end of the Hold the cabel pulley tight and Pay attention to which side of the ATTENTION must be carried out in gear #14. To hexagonal peg in an anticlockwise cable into the top hole of the cable with the other hand grasp the hub cable pulley is the mounting side. The wheel must not be laid on the do this, the axle has to be held direction until the end stop. Now pulley until both ends of the cable cables and pull them quickly until The back/mounting side has a axle ring side once the axle ring steady with a 17mm wrench on the the hub is in gear #14. stick approx. the same length out the cable sits properly in the cable recess before its hexagonal hole. has been removed because: aluminum nut (sprocket side). of the other side. pulley without getting kinked. The front side is without this a. Oil could leak out of the holes. b. The two freewheel springs could fall out of the locating peg holes.
16 17 18 Front side
10 11 12
2 ¾ turns
Put the cable pulley onto an 8mm Hold both ends of the hub cable in Press both ends of the hub cable allen key with the front side on top. position with thumb and index together with the thumb and index Bend the hub cables in the finger. finger of the other hand. Remove Remove both paper gaskets from Push the cable pulley out of the Push the new hub cable approx. direction of the cable runs in the the cable pulley from the 8mm the rear side of the axle ring axle ring from the rear side. Take half way into the cable pulleys cable pulley. The top cable should allen key. (where applicable). Always use care not to tilt the cable pulley for lower hole from the inner side. be wound approx. 2 ¾ times around the cable pulley. new paper gaskets when an easier removal. Remove the old POINTER remounting the axle ring. hub cable and clean both the cable pulley and the axle ring. The inward groove of the cable Check cable pulley for burrs and pulley should be sitting facing in deburr if necessary. the opposite direction to the gear cable. The runs of the cable pulley must be completely filled by the gear cable. 99 100 Repairs Repairs
19 20 21 25 26 POINTER Front side Should one end of the hub cable be left right pulled completely round to the end ¸ stop, the bend in the hub cable (between the cable hole of the cable pulley and the cable run) will straighten out. This bending and Front ¾ straightening of the hub cable will side considerably shorten the cable life. Therefore, the cable pulley must always have an end position Grip the cable pulley with a free Thread the right end of the hub Pull the cable pulley up to the axle Hold the axle ring in the left hand Pull the left end of the hub cable so approx. half a turn away from the hand so that both ends of the hub cable (long end) through the right ring by pulling both ends of the and pull the right end of the hub that the groove rotates approx. 1/2 cable guides. This way the hub cable are held in position. Hold hand cable guide. Thread the left hub cable equally. Push the cable cable until the end stop (groove revolution. The groove in the cable cable is guaranteed to run this so that front side of the cable end of the hub cable (short end) pulley into a parallel position with rotates to about 2 o'clock). pulley should now sit between the smoothly as it always sits in the pulley faces up. through the left hand cable guide. the axle ring using the thumb 7 and 8 o'clock positions. This is cable run and the bend remains in This procedure works a lot easier (from outside) and index finger the position of gear #14. Hold the place. when the axle ring is held by a (from inside) whilst keeping the axle ring and the cable pulley third hand. tension applied to both hub cable securely in this position and place ends. The cable pulley then springs this onto the gearbox with the into the axle ring hole. locating pegs in the correct holes. Grease Grease 27 28
22 23 24
¾
Make sure that the hexagonal peg Check the function of the axle ring The cable pulley must rotate freely Place a new paper gasket over the Lay the wheel on a flat surface so sits correctly within the hole of the by gripping one end of the hub within the axle ring when pulling locating pegs of the axle ring so that the two locating peg holes (not cable pulley (groove between the 7 cable with pliers and pulling this each end of the hub cable. Prevent that all holes meet up with the threaded) lay at positions 3 and 9 and 8 o'clock positions). It may be out to the end stop. Repeat this the cable pulley from springing out corresponding screw holes of the o'clock (arrowed). necessary to alter the position of process with the other end of the of the axle ring with the thumb and axle ring. The smaller gasket sits in the cable pulley by a minimal hub cable. At the end stops, both index finger. the recess on the rear side of the amount. Place some grease ends of the hub cables should axle ring. ATTENTION between the cable pulley and the protude from the cables guides by Make sure the two freewheel axle ring (arrowed). Replace the the same amount. springs remain in the locating peg axle plate and secure into position holes. with the six axle plate screws, tightening them in cross formation 101 (Torx TX20, tightening torque: 102 3Nm/25”lbs.). Repairs Repairs
1.2 Quick-change axle ring (after Serial Number 25300) A Hub Cable Easy Set (Art. #8573) is available for a quick replacement.A Hub Cable including all needed parts can simply be slotted into the axle ring as a complete unit (See included instruction sheet for mounting instructions).
29 30 31 1 2 3
mm 1 6 5 m mm 1 6 5 m
Check therear (14) side cable is Push the cable up into the male Place a new concertina tube and Remove the rear wheel. With good Unscrew the bayonet male To change the hub cables the axle pulled out to its end stop. bayonet connector as far as it will male bayonet connector over the wire cutters cut off the four cable connectors from the hub cables plate must be firstly removed. To Measure* thisrear (14) cable and go and tighten both 4mm headless cable. Tighten up the connector as ties that hold the concertina tubes (M4x 4 - 2mm allen key) and then do this, unscrew the five axle plate cut it at 165mm with sharp wire screws (2mm allen key, tightening with the other. Pull the shorter over the hub cables. remove the concertina tubes. screws (M4x 25 - Torx TX20). cutters. Place a new concertina torque: 1.5Nm/12”lbs.). Pull the cable until both of the hub cables tube carefully over the cable and front (1) side cable with pliers are approx. the same length. ATTENTION place the male bayonet connector through the 13 clicks of the Place the two new concertina tubes onto the end of the cable. gearbox until the endstop (gear #1). over the cable guides and secure Take note of the position of the Measure* thisfront (1) cable and with cable ties. Make sure that the axle plate against the hub cable cut it at 165mm with sharp wire cable ties clamp the concertina guides for correct refitment later. cutters. tubes over the recess in each of the cable guides. 4 5 6
32 33 TIP * For easier measurement of the correct cable length the special measuring pipe (Art. #8711) can be ordered. Simply place the measuring pipe as far down as The mounting of the cable pulley possible over the cable. Cut the The axle ring remains attached to must be carried out in gear #14. To cable at the end of this pipe, then the axle by one more countersunk ATTENTION do this, the axle has to be held slide the new concertina tube over head bolt underneath the axle plate. Do not lie the wheel on the axle steady with a 17mm wrench on the the pipe. Remove the measuring Lie the wheel on a worktop with ring side, as it is possible that oil locking nut on the sprocket side. The top ends of the concertina tubes pipe, secure the male connector and the axle ring facing upwards. could leak out of the bolt holes. must be placed over the ends of the the concertina tube in the correct Remove the two cable guides with male bayonet connectors and positions. the nylon cylinders and the cable secured with cable ties. Make sure pulley by rocking the cable guides that the cable ties clamp the from side to side until they are concertina tubes over the recesses. released from their seats within the axle ring.
103 104 Repairs Repairs
7 8 9 13 14 15
Front side Nylon
14. Groove ¸ cylinder Groove ¸
Cables Cables Cable guide
With an 8mm wrench turn the Remove the old hub cable from the Next push the other end of the The picture shows the cable pulley The cable pulley should be placed Place the cable guides over the hub hexagonal peg in an anticlockwise cable pulley. Clean and deburr cable into the top hole of the cable with the correctly wound hub over the hexagonal peg of the cables, nylon cylinder end first! direction until the end stop. Now cable pulley if necessary. Insert pulley until both ends of the cable cables. The cable runs are shifting shaft with the groove the hub is in gear #14. the new hub cable (0.9mm) approx. stick approx. the same length out completely filled with the gear facing towards the countersunk half way into the cable pulleys of the other side. cable and the groove faces toward axle bolt (or as near to it as lower hole from the inner side. the 10 o´clock position. possible approx. 9-10 o´clock position). Both ends of the hub cable should be placed through the seats of the cable guides. 10 11 Rear side 12 with recess Groove Groove 2¼ turns 16 17 18 incorrect correct
Front side Front side ¸1/2 turn
Hold the cable pulley tightly and Pay attention to which side of the Bend the hub cables in the with the other hand grasp the cable pulley is the mounting side. direction of the cable runs in the 0.9mm hub cables and pull them The back/mounting side has a cable pulley (this is easily quickly until the cable sits properly recess before its hexagonal hole. achieved by placing the cable The cable guides are sitting Press the nylon cylinders firmly Place a little grease between the in the cable pulley without getting The front side is without this pulley onto an 8mm allen key). properly in their seats of the axle into their seats of the axle ring. axle ring and the cable pulley. kinked. recess. The top cable should be wound ring when the rounded top of the Remount the axle plate checking approx. 2¼ times around the nylon cylinder is facing upwards that it is at the same angle against pulley. The bottom cable approx. (as shown in the above picture). the cables guides as it was before. 1/2 of a turn in the opposite Tighten up the five countersunk direction. bolts (Torx TX20 - tightening torque: 3Nm/25”lbs.).
105 106 Repairs Repairs
1.3 Bajonet connector
19 20 21 ATTENTION The new male bayonet connector (after-2005/Serial Number 43100) differs from the former as discribed below: : - 3mm Drilling (cable mount) - Ring shaped groove (distinction characteristic)
mm 1 6 5 m - Cable end sheath
mm 1 6 5 m POINTER Do not use the new cable sheaths together with the old bayonet connectors (2mm drilling) to clamp the cables. In this case, the cable sheaths will be squeezed flat and it will no longer be possible to remove them from the 2mm bayonet connectors. Check the rear(14) side cable is Push the cable up into the male Place a new concertina tube and pulled out to its end stop. bayonet connector as far as it will male bayonet connector over the Measure* thisrear (14) cable and go and tighten the two 4mm cable. Tighten up the connector as 1 2 3 cut it at 165mm with sharp wire headless screws with a 2mm allen with the other. Pull the shorter old cutters. Place a new concertina key (tightening torque cable until both of the hub cables new tube carefully over the cable and 1.5Nm/12”lbs.). Pull the front (1) are approx. the same length. place the male bayonet connector side cable with pliers through the Place the two new concertina tubes onto the end of the cable. 13 clicks of the gearbox until the over the cable guides and secure end stop (gear #1). Measure* this them with cable ties. Make sure cable and cut it at 165mm with that the cable ties clamp the groove sharp wire cutters. concertina tubes over the recess in groove each of the cable guides. cable sheath The bayonet connectors should be Insert the hub cable including the Use the 2mm allen key to secure the 22 mounted together with the cable new cable sheath completely until cable inside the bayonet connector TIP sheaths onto the 0.9mm hub cable. the bedstop into the bayonet with 0.8Nm. Secure the concertina * For easier measurement of the This way, damage to the cable by connector (3mm drilling). Fix the tubes with cable ties. correct cable length the special pincing it with the grub screws can grub screws with a 2mm allen key. For further help, refer to be easily prevented. “Repairs”1.2. measuring pipe (Art. #8711) can be ordered. Simply place the measuring pipe as far down as possible over the cable. Cut the 1.3.1 New Bajonet version 2014 cable at the end of this pipe, then slide the new concertina tube over the pipe. Remove the measuring 1 2 3 The top ends of the concertina tubes pipe, secure the male connector and must be placed over the ends of the the concertina tube in the correct male bayonet connectors and positions. secured with cable ties. Make sure that the cable ties clamp the concertina tubes over the recesses.
107 108 Repairs Repairs
2. Changing the chain tensioner spring 3. Changing the grip rubber
Since the end of 2002 theRohloff chain tensioner has been equipped with a modified spring. With the conversion kit (Art. #8248) all the olderRohloff chain tensioners can be equipped with the new spring. POINTER 1 2 Circlip Spring end 1 2 3 stop The shifter cables have to be Cage removed from the twist shifter first Short leg before it is possible to replace the Cable rubber grip. Before the shifter run 14 Long cables are removed, the ends that Nipple Pivot axle leg were clamped in the female Torsion spring connectors (internal gear mech) or (old type) the cable pulley (external gear mech) must be cut so that the Cable stop 1 frayed ends of these cables do not damage the nylon liners when Remove cable stop 1 and rotate the With a flat screwdriver, remove the twist shifter until the nipple of Remove the safety clip from the Clean and grease the pivot axle. Push the cage completely onto the being removed. safety ring. The rubber grip can pivot axle using a flat screwdriver. Mount the new torsion spring over pivot axle. Replace the washer and shifter cable 14 can be seen. Pull now be removed. Clean the twist Do not reuse this clip. Pull the the pivot axle as shown. Turn the fit the new safety clip into position. the cable out of the twist shifter. shifter housing. Repeat this process for the removal cage and the washer off the pivot torsion spring until its short leg lies of shifter cable 1. axle in the direction of the arrow. against the spring end stop. Hold Remove the old torsion spring. the torsion spring in its position on the pivot axle whilst swinging the TIP long leg over the spring end stop. Should only the rubber grip need to be replaced. Firstly shift into gear #14. Disconnect the Bayonet 4 5 6 Connectors or the External cable 3 4 box. Screw both of the cable O-ring Countersunk adjusters completely in and bolt remove the two screws on the cable stops of the shifter. Remove the safety circlip and slide the complete rubber grip out of the Cone shifter housing and off of the washer handlebars. Hook both the cables out of their seats in the rubber grip, transfer these and re-hook them Bring the cage and the long leg of Push the long leg of the spring in The long leg of the spring now sits into the new, lightly greased rubber the spring together into a position the direction of the arrow over the against the cone washer and holds Lightly grease the twist shifter The safety ring can now be grip (Art.N° 8201). Wind these similar to that shown in the new bolt and let it spring back. the cage back creating the tension. housing. The arrowed “O ring” remounted. Check that the twist cables roughly 3/4 (270°) around diagram. Swap the old jockey must also be lightly greased and shifter rotates smoothly and freely. the new grip in their respective wheel bolt for the new countersunk POINTER checked that it is sitting in the Refit new shifter cables (see runs and slide this new complete bolt (M4x 20 - Torx TX20, To replace the jockey wheels, correct position before remounting. chapter "Mounting", paragraph 6. unit back inside the shifter housing tightening torque 3Nm/25in.lbs.) remove the cage from the pivot "Twist shifter"). and refit both of the cable stops. and cone washer. axle (as in stage #1). Remove the Replace the safety circlip and lower jockey wheel bolt and lightly test the shifter functions replace the jockey wheels. correctly. Reconnect the Gear Remount the chain tensioner mech in gear #14. 109 (stages #3 and #4). 110 Repairs Repairs
4. Exchanging the gear unit 4.2 Gear unit installation When remounting the gearbox, new joints and a new paper gasket must be fitted. With theRohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14, the 14 speed gearbox can be removed completely from the hub casing allowing for a quick and easy replacement of the gearbox. 1 A 2 3 4.1 Gear unit removal
1 2 D C
ATTENTION When mounting or dismounting the sprocket, always check that the B sprocket tool is properly secured. The driver could get severely The bearing seatA and the The new paper gasket (arrowed) The new jointsC must also be damaged, when attempting this sprocket threadB of the driver must be fitted over the centering lightly greased before being placed removal/assembly procedure with must be lightly greased before ridge of the hub cap. This is better into their respective seatsD . These an unsecured sprocket tool. The removal procedure must start Remove the sprocket using a chain remounting the gearbox. accomplished when lightly greased. joints are what transfere the power with the the rinsing and draining of whip and the sprocket tool (see Align the holes in the paper gasket from the gearbox to the hub casing. the oil from within the hub (see chapter "Service", paragraph 3. with those in the hub cap ready for chapter “Oil change”). The drain "Sprocket reversing/replacing"). the bolts later. screw must not be reused.
3 4 5
4 5 6
Remove the axle nuts or Q/R Draw the gearbox out of the hub Lie the gearbox on its side and skewer and the sprocket tool. Now casing. If this proves to be difficult, remove and dispose of the excess remove the 8 hub cap countersunk than gently tap the sprocket side of oil that is sitting in the hub casing. bolts (M4x 10 - Torx TX20). the gearbox with a rubber mallet to Hold the hub cap and the gearbox The gearbox only sits properly Once the hub casing touches the ease the process. CAREFUL! firmly and feed the gearbox into once the joints sit in their correct cap, the 8 countersunk screws can Excess oil could still leak out of the hub casing until the hub cap positions against the hub casing. be replaced. Tighten these screws the hub casing! touches the hub casing. To ease the process, rotate the in a cross formation, so as to driver in an anticlockwise direction evenly distribute the pressure whilst pushing the two parts between the two parts whilst together. securing them together (M4x 10 - Torx TX20, tightening torque:
111 112 Repairs Repairs
5. Hub seal replacement with Schaft seal replacement tool (Art. #8503) and removal hook (Art. #8507) The hub seals should only be replaced by a profesional bicycle workshop in the case of oil leakages. The new hub seals (after Serial Number 25400) with an outer metal ring can only be 7 8 9 replaced by Rohloff dealers with the hub seal replacement tools.
Shaft seal press-in tool
Assembly for 1x 1x sprocket side Insert (w/o insert) Centering collar
Refit the sprocket with the use of a Check that the sprocket runs Ring chain whip. smoothly by spinning the sprocket POINTER backwards. If not, then hit the axle The hub bearing within the Slot Assembly for peg firmly with a rubber mallet. hubshell is a fixed bearing and the axle ring side Once from the sprocket side (right) hub bearing on the sprocket side is Insert (w/ insert) and once from the axle plate side a movable bearing. During the (left). This will loosen-up the replacement of the gearbox, the 8mm hex tension on the bearings. movable bearing could get strained (the outer race does not move parallel with the inner race due to friction created against the hub min.0.3mm 5.1 Axle ring side: 10 11 casing). By hitting the axle pegs 11 Old, with a rubber mallet, the inner and 1 complete outer races of the bearing will be nylon brought back into line. The sprocket should spin freely when rotated backwards once it is New, with correctly seated. metal ring
Freewheel spring Freewheel spring Check which type of hub seal is mounted within your hub. Hubs produced after Serial Number 25400 POINTER are equipped with the new hub seal. To be sure: The grub screw There must be a minimum of Refill the Rohloff SPEEDHUB Further disassembly past the new hub seals have an outer metal ring and can Lie the wheel on a flat surface with the sprocket side 0.3mm between the sprocket and 500/14with 25ml of Rohloff removal of the gear unit from the therefore be replaced with the tools shown. The facing down. Remove the axle plate and the the hub casing. If not, then remove SPEEDHUB OIL (see chapter hub shell is not permitted. Failure older types are completely formed from nylon, hubs corresponding gear mech - a brake disc may have to needing these types of seals to be replaced, must be the sprocket and push the hub seal “Service”, paragraph 1. “Oil to comply will result in the loss of be removed for this procedure. warranty/guarantee. sent back to Rohloff Service department to be as far back as possible. Refit the change”) and refit a new drain replaced. sprocket and check that the screw (3mm allen key, tightening ATTENTION sprocket runs smoothly. torque: 0.5Nm/4in.lbs.). Make sure the two freewheel springs stay in the locating peg holes. ATTENTION The grub screw mounted on hubs produced after Theoildrainscrewmustnotbeinsertedanyfurtherthanflushwiththe Serial Number 47000 must be removed before hubshell.Anydeepercouldresultinperiodicdrivelossincertaingears. replacing the hub seals and replaced again afterwards. See “Appendix” Grub screw, external 113 114 gear mech. Repairs Repairs
2 3 4 8 9 10
CenteringZentrier- collarbund Groove
Place the new hub seal around the Using a cottonbud, cover the Place the press tool onto the hub ATTENTION Remove the old hub seal from the centering collar of the press tool. outside edge of the new hub seal with the new hub seal facing hub shell. To do this place the with a thin coat of Loctite 641. inwards. If the rub-ring of the axle ring insert onto the hub and hook the shows signs of damage (grooves removal tool under the old hub seal. within the outer surface, noticable Lever the removal tool into the POINTER ATTENTION POINTER Remove the old hub seal by with a fingernail), then please post upright position as shown in the The closed side of the new hub The grub screw on hubs after sharply pulling the removal tool Make sure that none of the Loctite the axle ring to the Rohloff service picture. seal faces towards the tool itself, upwards. If this doesn´t remove the finds its way into the groove of the Serial No. 47000 must be removed department so that a new rub-ring the open side is visible. seal from the hub shell, then follow new hub seal. in able to guarantee a flush can be mounted. the method shown below. mounting of the Hub Seal.
5 6 7 11 12 13
Lay a 10mm wrench flat over the Use a cottonbud to clean and Thread the two included wingbolts Wind the press tool back to its insert with the open end hooked degrease (petroleum/brake cleaner) One thread through the square slots on normal position. Remove the press under the wooden grip of the the mating surface ready for the visible opposite sides of the press tool, tool and wing bolts. Clean away removal tool. Secure the removal new hub seal. secure these in the holes of the hub any Loctite that has overspilled tool by pushing it against the insert. left and right of the axle. Turn the press tool clockwise as far onto the hub shell. Force the wrench down onto the as possible whilst holding the Prepare the hub seal press tool as insert still with an 8mm allen key. insert in order to lever the removal shown in the picture. tool with the old hub seal upwards The new hub seal will now be and out of the hub shell. Remove pressed firmly into the correct the insert. position.
115 116 Repairs Repairs
20 21 22 5.2 Sprocket side:
14 15 16
Using a cottonbud, cover the Groove outside edge of the new hub seal with a thin coat of Loctite 641. Replace the axle plate and the gear Remove the sprocket as shown in mech using new paper gaskets as the Owners Manual. Lie the wheel ATTENTION Clean and degrease Place the new hub seal around the shown in the Owners Manual. on a flat surface with the sprocket (petroleum/brake cleaner) the centering collar of the press tool. ATTENTION side facing up (Service5.3) Check the sprocket for signs of mating surface ready for the new The closed side of the new hub Make sure that none of the Loctite Axle plate position wear. If it is worn then rotate it hub seal. seal faces towards the tool itself, finds its way into the groove of the “Mounting 4” before remounting (see Owners the open side is visible. new hub seal. Internal gear mech ATTENTION Manual). When both sides are “Repairs 1.1 + 1.2” Oil could leak out once the worn then replace it for an unworn External gear mech sprocket is removed. sprocket with undamaged seal “Service 5.3” surfaces.
23 24 25
17 18 19
Remove the old hub seal from the Remove the old hub seal by Lay a 10mm wrench flat over the hub shell. To do this place the sharply pulling the removal tool sprocket tool with the open end Place the sprocket tool onto the Remove the ring and the sprocket Replace the new/rotated sprocket sprocket tool onto the driver and upwards. If this doesn´t remove the hooked under the wooden grip of driver and se-cure it in position tool. (with undamaged seal surfaces) as hook the removal tool under the seal from the hub shell, then the removal tool. Secure the with the Q/R skewer or an axle nut. shown in the Owners Manual. old hub seal. Lever the removal follow the method shown below. removal tool by pushing it against Set the ring over the sprocket tool tool into the upright position as the sprocket tool. Force the wrench and thread it clockwise as far as shown in the picture. down onto the sprocket tool in pos-sible over the thread of the POINTER order to lever the removal tool driver whilst holding the sprocket with the old hub seal upwards and tool still with an 24mm wrench. The metal part of the hub seals out of the hub shell. Remove the The new hub seal will now be should be flush with the edge of insert. pressed firmly into the correct the hub shell and/or hub cap. position.
117 118 Appendix Appendix Trouble shooting Problems and possible reasons Solution Problems and possible reasons Solution 4.2 Shifter cables worn, dirty or damaged 1. Too much play in the twist shifter Readjust the cable tension, see"Service" 2. (more than 2mm) 4.3 Incorrect shifter cables fitted (not orginal Rohloff) 2. Gear display is not aligned correctly Alter the cable adjusters,see"Service" 2 . Fit new shifter cables: 4.4 Cable routing has too many bends or kinks - Internal gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.2 3. Twist shifter will not turn through all 14 gears - External gear mech, see"Service" 2. (14 gears = 13 clicks) 4.5 Inner nylon liners have penetrated into the } 3.1 Shifter cables cut at the wrong length Cut cables to the correct length: twist shifter or the cable box - Internal gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.2.1 (due to a false fitment) - External gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.3.1 4.6 Twist shifter rubs against the grip itself Leave a small gap between the twist shifter and the 3.2 Falsely altered cable adjusters Alter the cable adjusters, see"Service" 2. grip or insert a teflon washer between the two parts.
3.3 For external gear mech: Correctly align the hexagonal peg 4.6.1 Twist shifter degreased by weather Remove the twist shifter grip rubber, clean it, and Hexagonal peg of the gear transfer box in regrease it. See“Repairs” 3 . an incorrect position see"Riding with the SPEEDHUB 500/14" 3.2 4.7 Hub cable broken and frayed Check the shifter cables: 4. Twist shifter does not turn freely Loosen the concertina tubes at the hub and pull them up towards the bayonet connectors. Check the 4.1 Cable tension is too high Reduce the shifter cable tension, see"Service" 2. condition of these cables in gear positions 1 and 14. If the hub cable is damaged, it will need replacing: Check the internal gear mech: - One-piece axle ring, see"Repairs" 1.1 Open the bayonet connectors and (holding a cable - Quick-change axle ring, see"Repairs" 1.2 in each hand) pull the cables in turn. They run smoothly, see points 4.2 - 4.6. They do not run 4.8 Gear transfer box (external gear mech) is bent Replace the gear transfer box smoothly, see point 4.7. Mounting, see"Service" 5.3 Check the external gear mech: Select gear #14. Remove the cable box just enough 4.8.1 Changing between gears 8 and 14 is not Grub screw (after hub Nr 47000 with an external so that the twist shifter can be turned without force possible or only possible with extreme force gear mech) is threaded too far into the axle. This must and the cables keep their normal routing bends. be unscrewed approx. 2mm. See“Appendix” . Turn the twist shifter back and forth. It does not turn smoothly, see points 4.2 - 4.6. It turns 4.9 Hexagonal peg of the external gear mech does Checking: smoothly, see point 4.8. not turn freely (due to corrosion) Place an 8mm wrench over the hexagonal peg of the external transfer box. When using the wrench to switch gears, the changing of gears must have a light and positive feel. If not, remove the external transfer box. Regrease the hexagonal peg and the sprocket ("Service" 5.3).
4.9.1 The cable pulley of the external gear mech Check: doesn´t turn freely (after the conversion from The correct position of the cogD over the hexagonal an internal to an external gear mech) pegE . See “Service” 5.3
119 120 Appendix Appendix
Problems and possible reasons Solution Problems and possible reasons Solution
10. Freespinning (after a gear change) 5. Twist shifter fails to turn in 0° temperatures.
5.1 Water has penetrated into the twist shifter and Remove the rubber grip. Clean, regrease this and 10.1 Axle nuts (CC/TS axle) too firmly tightened Tighten axle nuts to the correct tightening has frozen when necessary replace the seal, see"Repairs" 3. torque (CC 7Nm/ 60in lbs / TS 35Nm/310in.lbs.)
5.2 Water has penetrated into the shifter cables Replace the shifter cables and the nylon liners: 10.2 Shifter cable tension is too high. No positive Adjust shifter cable tension, see"Service" 2. and has frozen - Internal gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.2 feel to the gear change - External gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.3 10.3 Gearbox oil too thick Test: AddRohloff special oil change assistent fluid 5.3 Water has penetrated into the cable box and Open the cable box, clean this and replace the cable to the oil within the hub and go for a test ride has frozen pulley with a little light grease. No more freespinning? Carry out an oil change, Fitment, see"Mounting" 7.3.1 see"Service" 1. 6. Shifter cable is loose from the cable clamp Cut off the frayed ends of the shifter cable and (Bayonet connectors on internal gear mech trim the cable housing/nylon liner by the same 10.4 Axle fixation with a PITLOCK Tighten the axle to 7Nm /60 in.lbs.max. torque or cable pulley on external gear mech) amount. Alternative: fit new cables: or allen key system (pay attention to the manufacturers advice) - Internal gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.2 - External gear mech, see"Mounting" 7.3 10.5 None of the above: Contact the Rohloff Service team 7. Male bayonet connector is loose from the hub Replace hub cable: cable - One-piece axle ring, see"Repairs" 1.1 11. Freespinning (after a gear change) - Quick-change axle ring, see"Repairs" 1.2 below 0°C 11.1 Gearbox oil too thick Carry out an oil change with an intensive rinsing, 8. Chain springs over the teeth of the sprocket see"Service" 1.
8.1 Chain defect (stiff chain link) Loosen up the stiff link or replace the chain 11.2 Riding the bike below -15°C Rinse the gear-unit and refill the hub with a 50:50 mixture of All Season Oil and Cleaning Oil 8.2 Worn sprocket or chain Rotate or replace the sprocket, replace the chain, (total fill quantity - 25ml) see"Service" 3. 12. Freespinning of gears #1 to #7 after removing Check that the two freewheeling springs are there 8.3 Not enough tension in the chain Correct the chain length/tension, the axle ring or the external transfer box and sitting in the correct holes, see"Repairs" 1.1 see"Mounting" 5.3 and"Service" 5.3 9. On bikes with a chain tensioner, the chain 13. Freewheel does not rotate smoothly Test: The sprocket must rotate backwards freely springs off the sprockets without restriction 9.1 Chain tensioner runs dry and turns with Grease the chain tensioner or replace the jockey difficulty wheels, see"Service" 2. or "Repairs" 2. 13.1 Hub seal rubs against the sprocket Push the hub seal back (until Serial.No. 25299 possible) see"Repairs" 4.2 9.2 Chain tensioner spring is defect Replace the chain tensioner spring, see"Repairs" 2. Check the min. chain length on full suspension 13.2 Strained hub bearings Destrain the hub bearings, see"Repairs" 4.2 bikes, see"Mounting" 5.3.1 (crash or accidents) 9.3 No chain guide in use Mount a chain guide, see"Mounting" 5.4 All bikes fitted with a chain tensioner need to be 13.3 Chain Tension too high Reduce the chain tension to about 5mm of fitted with a chain guide (egRohloff chain guide vertical slack, replace or reverse untrue chainrings. CC Art. #8290). This prevents the chain from springing off the chainring.
121 122 Appendix Appendix
Problems and possible reasons Solution Toolsand bolts Below is a list of all tools and bolts (along with their corresponding tightening torques) for the mounting of the 14. Oil leaks Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 and ist accessories. 14.1 Oil traces (no droplets) This is not an oil leak. This is sweat oil, which Torx TX20 wrench (Art. #8504)* 7mm wrench forms around the hub bearing, the paper gasket and Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14: Rohloff chain guide CC: 8 or 9 Hub cap screws: M4x 10 (3Nm/25”lbs.) M4 Nut, rear distance bush the oil drain screw due to variations in air 5 or 6 Axle plate screws: M4x 25 (3Nm/25”lbs. ) temperature and pressure. 8mm wrench 2 Cable box cover bolts: M4x 10 (3Nm/25in-lbs. ) Shifting shaft External gear mech: 14.2 Oil leaks following horizontal transportation See "Riding with the SPEEDHUB 500/14" 2 Guide pin bolts: M4 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) 10mm wrench Twist shifter: TS versions: 14.3 Oil traces on the quick release skewer The ventilation functions through the axle hole for 2 Cable guide bolts: M4x 16 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) Torque arm clamp nut the quick release skewer. Oil traces on the quick Rohloff chain tensioner/DH chain tensioner: Cable guide 0° release skewer are, therefore, normal 2 End stop bolts (DH: just one): M4x 10 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) Frame clamp nut 14.4 Oil drops out of the hollow quick release axle Please contact theRohloff Service team Jockey wheel axle bolt: M4 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) 13mm wrench Rohloff chain guide CC: Internal gear mech: 14.5 Oil droplets on the axle ring, the axle plate or Check the axle plate screws are all in place and Bolt (rear distance bush): M4x 20 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) Cable guide Bolt (rear threaded bush): M4x 20 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) the concertina tubes tightened to the correct tightening torque. (see 15mm wrench "Mounting" 4.3) Renew the paper gaskets between Bolt(rear threaded bush) : M4x 35 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) TS versions: the axle ring and the axle (see"Service" 5.3 or 2 Clamp bolts: M4x 35 (3Nm/25in-lbs.) 2 TS axle nuts: M10 (35Nm/310in.lbs.) "Repairs"1.1) Only use Rohloff axle plate screws 2mm allen key Screw driver with thread sealant Internal gear mech: CC versions: 8 Bayonet connector bolts: M4x 4 2 clamps (5Nm/43in.lbs.) 14.6 Oil droplets between the hub casing and the Check the hub cap screws are all in place and External gear mech: hub cap tightened to the correct tightening torque, 2 Cable pulley bolts: M4x 4 17mm wrench see"Repairs" 4.2 Rohloff DH chain guide: Locking nut (holding the axle steady) 3 Mounting bolts: M4x 8 24mm wrench 14.7 Oil traces around the oil drain screw Use new thread sealant on the oil drain 2.5mm allen key for sprocket tool screw (Loctite thread sealant 511) or a new oil Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14: Sprocket tool (Art. #8501) drain screw withRohloff thread sealant, Twist Shifter (old version) Art. #8200 (0,5Nm/4in-lbs.) Sprocket removal see"Service" 1. 3mm allen key Chain whip 14.8 Oil droplets on the hub bearings Please contact theRohloff Service team Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14: Sprocket removal Oil drain screw (0,5Nm/4in-lbs. ) (Both ends of the hub smeared with oil) Brass tube 165mm (Art. #8711) 4mm allen key Cutting hub cables (internal gear mech) 15. Complete blockage of the gear system after Thegrub screw (mounted in hubs after Serial Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14: Brass tube 200mm (Art. #8712) Cable guide mounting bolt: M6 (6Nm/51in-lbs. ) Number 47000 Cutting shifter cables (external gear mech) working on the external gear mech with an external gear mech) is screwed too far into TS versions: Shifter cable measurement tool (Art. #8506) the axle. This must be unscrewed approx. 2mm. Torque arm clamp bolt: M6x 12 (6Nm/51in-lbs.) Cutting shifter cables (internal gear mech) See“Appendix” , Grub screw external gear mech. Rohloff SPEEDBONE/ MonkeyBone : 2 Mounting bolts: M6x 25 5mm allen key POINTER Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14: 4 or 5 Chainring bolts: M88x 0.75 (7Nm /61in-lbs. ) * The use of Torx screws/bolts as opposed to the common allen key bolts allows a more safe and DB versions: ATTENTION nondestructive mounting and dismounting with- 4 brake disc mounting bolts: M8x 0.75 (7Nm/61in-lbs.) Too much oil within the gearbox increases the risk of oil leaks. Therefore, when an oil leak is discovered, new out the heads rounding out after several times Retrofit versions (not OEM or OEM2): usage. To avoid damaging the heads of the replacement oil must not be added (risk of overfilling). Reduced oil level by leakage through the seals will not 2 Torque arm mounting bolts: M8 (7Nm/61in-lbs.) screws/bolts, the Torx key must be securely cause problems and riding further until the next oil change (annually or every 5000km) is possible (see Rohloff chain tensioner/DH chain tensioner: pressed into the head. We suggest the use of a T- "Service" 1.). Mounting bolt (8Nm/70in-lbs.) grip key to keep the pressure central over the Pivot axle (8Nm/70in-lbs.) bolt (the use of other tools could result in 123 (Attention: Turning clockwise unscrews) 124 damage to the bolts). Appendix Appendix
Hubcap Wheel lacing for rims 1 2 Wheel lacing for rims 1 2 screw with a European spoke- 1 2 with a French spoke-hole 3 1 hole pattern 4 pattern 2 3 The following written wheel lacing Valve hole The following written wheel lacing Valve hole method always concentrates itself method always concentrates itself around the directional rotation of around the directional rotation of Front the wheel, the method also only the wheel, the method also only Trailing Front applies to wheels with a two cross applies to wheels with a two cross spoke lacing pattern. For simple one Hubcap Leadingspoke lacing pattern. For simple one (outward cross lacing patterns, pay attention screw (inward head) cross lacing patterns, pay attention head) to the numbers in brackets. to the numbers in brackets. Start to lace up the wheel from the The end of this spoke should be Start to lace up the wheel from the The end of this spoke should be hubcap side of the hub. The first inserted into the nipple hole of the sprocket side of the hub. The first inserted into the nipple hole of the POINTER leading spoke should be inserted rim that is 4 holes away from the POINTER trailing spoke should be inserted rim that is 3 holes away from the Trailing spokes cross in front of from the inside of the hub flange valve hole. Trailing spokes cross in front of from the outside of the hub flange valve hole. Leading spokes. behind a hubcap screw (spoke Leading spokes. opposite a hubcap screw (spoke Leading spokes cross behind the head facing inwards). Leading spokes cross behind the head facing outwards). Trailing spokes. Trailing spokes.
ATTENTION ATTENTION Further information on correct spoke lengths and tension (mind. 1000N with inflated tire) can be found in the Further information on correct spoke lengths and tension (mind. 1000N with inflated tire) can be found in the section ‘The Wheel’ and also in the Appendix . section ‘The Wheel’ and also in the Appendix .
3 4 5 3 4 5 1 Front 1 1 2 1 3 2 1 2 2 2 1 4 Leading 3 3 spoke 4 Leading Trailing Trailing (inward spoke spoke spoke Front (inward head) (outward First (outward head) head) head) sprocket First side spoke 2 hubcap 1 side spoke 1 2 Front 1 2 Front 3 Front 2 3 Front 1
Three holes (one hole) behind this The next trailing and leading The valve hole is to be found Three holes (one hole) behind this The next trailing and leading The valve hole is to be found first spoke is where the trailing spokes are laced into the rim in opposite from a hubcap screw. The first spoke is where the leading spokes are laced into the rim in opposite from a hubcap screw. The spoke should be inserted, this exactly the same way. The only spoke hole of the flange opposite spoke should be inserted, this exactly the same way. The only spoke hole of the flange that is two spoke is to be inserted from the difference being that they enter the from this is where the first spoke spoke is to be inserted from the difference being that they enter the holes behind this, is where the first outside of the hub flange (spoke hub flange two holes away from on the sprocket side is to inserted inside of the hub flange (spoke hub flange two holes away from spoke on the hubcap side is to be head facing outwards). This spoke the last respective leading or from the inside (spoke head facing head facing inwards). This spoke is the last respective pull or cross inserted from the outside (spoke is to be crossed over the first spoke trailing spoke, and that they enter inwards). This spoke is to be to be crossed over the first spoke spoke, and that they enter the rim head facing outwards). This spoke and inserted into the nipple hole of the rim four holes away from the inserted into the nipple hole of the and inserted into the nipple hole of four holes away from the last is to be inserted into the first the rim that is two holes before last respective spokes. Continue rim that is 3 holes behind the valve the rim that is two holes behind respective spokes. Continue this nipple hole of the rim that lies that of the first spoke. this process in pairs of leading and hole. Lace all the remaining spokes that of the first spoke. process in pairs of leading and behind the valve hole. Lace all the trailing spokes until all the spokes in the same pattern as with the trailing spokes until all the spokes remaining spokes in the same have been laced into the hubcap other side of the wheel (Fig. 3 and have been laced into the sprocket pattern as with the other side of the side of the wheel. Turn the wheel side of the wheel. Turn the wheel wheel (Fig. 3 and 4).
125 126 Appendix Appendix
Technicaldata Reference to Serial Number of the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 Number of gears: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Gear increases: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . even 13.6% Range of gears: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526% ATTENTION S e r i a l N u m b e r Frame spacing: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135mm (XLVersion = 170mm) EachRohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 is provided with a Number of spoke holes: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32/36 (XLVersion = 32 hole only) consecutive Serial Number which is found on the sticker Spoke flange distance: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58mm, symmetrical (XLVersion= 93mm) band around the hub shell. Spoke hole circle diameter: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ø100mm SPEEDHUBs built after Serial Number 75000, have the Spoke hole diameter: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ø2.7mm Serial Number engraved directly into the hub shell. Spoke flange width: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2mm Axle diameter at dropout:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.8mm Axle overall width CC: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147mm (XLVersion = 182mm) Hollow axle inner diameter:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ø5.5mm, for quick release lever Total axle width TS: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171mm / TS long 179mm TIP S t i c k e r Total axle width TS (XLVersion): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206mm / TS long 214mm Axle thread TS: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M10x1 If the tape around the hub shell should be removed at any time, we recommend to separate first the Serial Number Center disc mounting diameter: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ø52mm with a sharp carpet knife from the tape and then to leave just this SerialNumber on the hub. If the tape should be Mounting bolt hole circle diameter: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ø65mm removed completely, theSerial Number should be saved and/or stuck onto the warranty card. Alternatively, the Brake disc mounting bolts:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 x M8x0.75 Serial Number can be engraved on the hub cap! Distance between dropout and center disc mount: . . . . . . . 16.3mm (IS1999) Weight: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1700g (CC), 1800g (CC EX), 1825g (CC DB) Weight (XLVersion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1980g (CC DB) Oil volume: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25ml max. Sprocket thread:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M34x6 P1, tolerance 6H POINTER Wa r r a n t y C a r d Sprocket type: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . for bicycle chain 1/2" x 3/32” (ISO Nr. 082) EachSPEEDHUB 500/14 and each complete bicycle Number of sprocket teeth: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 (optional: 13, 15 and 17) equipped with theSPEEDHUB 500/14 comes complete Chainline: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54mm (58mm with 13tooth sprocket) with an orangeRohloff warranty card attached. Chainline (XLVersion):. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.5mm (75mm with 13tooth sprocket) Smallest permissible gear ratios (26”):. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32/17, 30/16, 28/15, 26/13 (transmission factor ~ 1.90) This orangeRohloff warranty card must be: (Riders over 100kg/tandem): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42/17,40/16,38/15,34/13 (transmission factor ~ 2.50) 003005 Gates Carbondrive beltline: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.75mm (XLVersion= 72.25) - completed in full (with Serial Number!) Smallest permissible belt sprocket ratios (26”): . . . . . . . . .39/19, 39/20, 42/22, 46/24 (transmission factor ~ 1.90) - stamped by the dealer (Riders over 100kg/tandem): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46/19,50/20,55/22,60/24 (transmission factor ~ 2.50) - returned toRohloff AG , Germany Maximum input torque: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Nm Gear control: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . by twist shifter (version right or left) Twist shifter angle per gear change: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21°/273° This Rohloff warranty card is vital to ensuring we can provide your hub with the best possible service. Gear control transfer:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . via two shifter cables (pull-pull system) Shifter cable movement per gear change:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.4mm/96,2mm Consecutive Serial Number - Production Year ATTENTION Wa r r a n t y 000000 - 000400 1998 Inner gear ratios (hub rotation per sprocket rotation): 000401 - 002700 1999 This Serial Number informs us about the production year and is 002701 - 006500 2000 Gear #1: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.279 important for guarantee or warranty claims, as well as a acting 006501 - 012000 2001 as proof of ownership. 012001 - 018800 2002 Gear #2: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.316 018801 - 027700 2003 Gear #3: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.360 027001 - 038500 2004 Gear #4: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.409 Only with knowledge of the appropriate Serial Number can an 038501 - 050049 2005 optimal service can be completed by Rohloff. 050050 - 065000 2006 Gear #5: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.464 065001 - 081600 2007 Gear #6: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.528 080601 - 100000 2008 100001 - 115900 2009 Gear #7: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.600 115901 - 135800 2010 Gear #8: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.682 135801 - 152800 2011 Gear #9: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.774 152801 - 172499 2012 Gear #10: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.881 172500 - 191398 2013 191399 - 206999 2014 Gear #11: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.000 207000 - ______ 2015 Gear #12: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.135 Gear #13: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.292 We expressively point out that theRohloff AG doesnot accept any warranty claims for Rohloff Gear #14: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.467 SPEEDHUB 500/14 gearhubs without a Serial Number. Service, repairs, and the spare parts service will also only be carried out on hubs when the hub is presented with the corresponding Serial Number (either on the sticker, The RohloffAG reserves the right to change the engraved into the hub shell, or on the warranty card). technical specifications without prior warning. 127 128 RohloffAG Appendix Appendix
Grub screw of the External Gear Mech The correct spoke choice Version 12_2013
All gear hubs built after Serial Number 47000 and equipped with an external gear mech have an M4x8 grub screw There are a confusing amount of different spokes currently available on the market. These differ not only by their mounted into the sixth threaded hole of the axle (it helps to prevent potential oil leaks). Therefore, the external gear length and diameter, but also more importantly by the differences in the spoke bend at the head. To accomplish mech can only be properly fitted in one position (PFig. 2) over the axle. the optimal longevity of both the hub flange, the spoke itself and the entire wheel, the spoke bend dimensions must be harmonized with both the hub flange and the spoke holes. It is not sufficient enough to simply choose a spoke according to its length and diameter (eg. 2.0-256mm), the spoke bend itself must additionally be harmonized with the spoke hole so that the spoke can find its optimal sit A 3 Grub screw within the spoke holes of the hub flange.
blind hole B P o i n t e r C Because retrofit spokes for theRohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 with the required head length are only Grub available in 2.0mm diameter, we generally recommend the use of DD 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes for lacing screw A SPEEDHUB wheels.
2mm
The grub screw on hubs with a The blind hole(B) must be located To control that the mounting is Serial Number between 47000 and directly over the grub screw(A) . correct, the screw (C ) must be Spoke diameter D 48500 lies flush (external gear When using an external gear mech screwed smoothly approx. 4 at the bend/head DBL mech without a blind hole).On without a blind hole(B ), the grub complete turns into the hub 2.0 2.9 +/-0.1 hubs with the Serial Number screw must be screwed flush into without force. Afterwards, the 48501 and over, this grub screw the axle. installation of the axle plate pertrudes by approx. 2mm The paper gaskets should then including all the screws can be (external gear mech with a blind be fitted so that all the holes completed (3Nm). Spoke bend length BL hole). meet up with the corresponding screw holes of the axle. Problem 1 If the spoke bend is too long and/or the diameter of the spoke at this bend be too small, then this will result in the POINTER spoke having an amount of axial play after the wheel has been trued. The spoke bend can now be bent open, resulting in a possible spoke failure. If an axle plate screw cannot or only with force be screwed into hole (C), then it must be checked that the grub screw (A) is not sitting directly behind this hole. If this is the case, then the external gear mech must be Problem 2 disassembled turned around 180° and mounted again in this position. The grub screw stays in its original position If the spoke bend is too short and/or the diameter of the spoke at the bend be too large, then the hub flange could (2mm pertruding). become slightly deformed as the spokes are threaded into the hub shell or as the spokes are tensioned. The damage caused here could possibly lead to a flange breakage.
Checking the correct sit for the Rohloff SPEEDHUB The hub flange and the spoke hole diameter on the SPEEDHUB 500/14 are designed so that an optimal sit can be ATTENTION achieved with the following spoke dimensions: If the external gear mech should be falsely mounted, then the fitting of an axle plate screw into hole (C ) would cause the grub screw (A ) to be forced into the axle. This in turn will lead to a complete blockage of the gearbox.
The removal of the grub screw is only necessary when converting the external to an internal gear mech, or when working with the hub seal replacement tools. The external gear mech should never be removed from ATTENTION the gearbox without good reason! As the required spoke head length is currently only available on 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes, we generally advise the use of DD spokes of this size. Bicycle manufacturers who utilise thick spokes with an oversized head diameter when lacing SPEEDHUB wheels, must guarantee the correct length of each spoke head (3.7mm).
The spokes should then be tensioned to a minimum of 1000N measured with an inflated tire or 1300N without tire.
129 130 Appendix Appendix
The correct spoke geometry can be easily identified as follows: Possible causes for flange breakages on bicycle hubs Cause: Spoke bend length is too short and/or Thread a spoke from outside through the hub flange of the hub cap side so that the spoke head finds its seat the spoke diameter at the bend is too large. within the countersink of the spoke hole. This should be possible without requiring any noticeable force. Hold the Effect: The spoke slightly deforms the flange as they are threaded and aligned into the hub shell or as the hub so that the flanges are horizontal and the sprocket side faces upwards. The spoke should be facing radially spokes are tensioned. This could lead to a flange breakage if this damage occurs at approximately 90° outwards. The threaded end of the spoke should now find itself within the shaded area shown on the diagram to the direction of the spoke tension. The source of the crack is the damage. below. Fig. b.
Countersunk a spoke hole
Hubflange, Spoke bend side b
+/-5° Notch caused by Direction of spoke tension stamping burr on spoke head. c Crack begin ca. 90° Crack in Hubflange a) Spoke bend is too short and/or the spoke bend diameter is too large. b) Spoke bend and spoke bend diameter are correct. c) Spoke bend is too long and/or the spoke bend diameter is too small.
Repeat this process. This time thread the spoke from the inside, outwards through the spoke flange on the sprocket side of the hub. Again, the spoke head should be seated within the countersink of the spoke hole and this without requiring a noticeable amount of force. Hold the hub so that the flanges are horizontal with the spoke Cause: Stamping burr on the spoke head. facing radially outwards. The threaded end of the spoke should now find itself within the shaded area shown on the diagram below. Fig. e. Effect: The burr on the spoke head stamps itself into the hub flange leaving a notch at the countersunk spoke hole. If this notch is to be found at an angle of approximately 90°to the direction of the spoke tension, then the flange could crack. The source of the crack is the burr on the spoke head. d
e
+/-5° Countersunk spoke hole Hubflange, f Spoke bend side
Notch caused by Direction of spoke tension stamping burr on spoke d) Spoke bend is too short and/or the spoke bend diameter is too large. Spoke head head. e) Spoke bend and spoke bend diameter are correct. Crack begin c) Spoke bend is too long and/or the spoke bend diameter is too small. ca. 90° Crack in Hubflange
Stamping burr
131 132 Appendix
Possible causes for flange breakages on bicycle hubs Twist Shifter ‘light’- Right-Hand (Art. #8206) Cause: Loose spokes due to too long spoke bend length and/or too small diameter of the spoke at the bend. Spoke tension to low. Mounting the Twist Shifter Effect: The spoke head of the unloaded spoke can move freely within the spoke hole of the hub flange, this in 1 2 turn damages the inner surface of the spoke hole and leaves notches. The damage that can be found at 3 Cable Stopper 1 approximately 90° to the direction of the spoke tension could lead to the hub flange cracking at this Point.
Cable Stopper 14 Countersunk 1 Hubflange, spoke hole Spoke head or 14 Cable Stoppers 1 + 14 spoke bend side The Twist Shifter works with two The Cable Stoppers for both Slide the Twist Shifter over the Damages/Notches around shifter cables. When the Twist shifter cables are identical and are right-hand handlebar end the spoke hole caused Direction of spoke tension Shifter is rotated forward by a loose spoke, simply inserted into the shifter (handlebar diameter 22 - 22.3mm / Crack begin (direction of gear #14), then then housing facing in opposing 7/8”). Rotate the Twist Shifter so the rear shifter cable #14 is directions. The Cable Stoppers can that the Cable Stoppers are evenly pulled.When the Twist Shifter is Crack in ca. 90° only be fully inserted if fitted distanced above and below the Hubflange rotated backwards (direction of correctly. An incorrect mounting is brake lever. gear #1), then then the rear shifter therefore impossible. cable #1 is pulled.
4 5
Cause: Re-lacing with alternative spoke alignment (second lacing of the hub). 1 Effect: The old embedment acts just like a notch or previous damage to the spoke hole. As this previous notch lies at an angle of approximately 90° to the new direction of the spoke tension, this could lead To the hub flange cracking at this point.
Countersunk Both Clamp Screws (M3x12 - Torx spoke hole TX20) should be lightly fitted so New embedment Hubflange, after spoke that the gap between both clamp 2 3 4 5 6 7 Spoke bend side tensioning elements is identical.
Insert the screws using the 1 = Clamp Screws (Art. #8192) pressure of just two fingers on the 2 = Clamp with Clamp Screws (Art. #8193) Old embedment Direction of spoke tension through previous TX20 tool. Finally tighten each 3 = Cable Stoppers (Art. #8191) spoke tensioning screw by max. 1/2 rotation. 4 = Shifter Housing (Art. #SA 01) The Twist Shifter should now be 5 = Cable Pulley with O-Ring/Rubber Seal (Art. #8194) ca. 90° tightly secured to the handlebars. 6 = Rubber Grip with O-Ring/Rubber Seal (Art. #8190) 7 = Circlip (Art. #SA 18-N) Crack in Hubflange ATTENTION Over tightening of the Clamp Screws can cause damage to both Twist Shifter and/or 133 handlebars. 134 V1-2015-02 Rubber Grip replacement - Right-hand (Art. # 8190)
6 7 8 1213 1314 1415
Left-hand Cable Run
Right-hand Cable Run
Fitment of Shifter Cable 14: Rotate the Grip Rubber so that the InsertShifter Cable 1 into the Replacement: Before fitting the replacement Grip Rubber, check that the O-ring is seated Remove both Cable Stoppers from gear indicator arrow falls between Cable Pulley as illustrated above, When replacing the Grip Rubber, it correctly on the Cable Pulley. the Shifter Housing. gears #8 and #9. Hold the Shifter until the cable end exits the Shifter is not necessary to remove or InsertShifter Cable 14 into the in this position. Housing. replace the shifter cables. Cable Pulley as illustrated above, Pull Shifter Cable 14 completely ATTENTION TIP until the cable end exits the Shifter intop the Shifter Housing until the Using a small, flat screwdriver Housing. Nipple is seated correctly in the prise the Circlip out of position Remove Shifter from Carbon Lightly grease the inside of the Cable Pulley. and remove from the Shifter Fiber Handlebars to avoid Cable Pulley to ensure easy Housing. potential damage when operation. removing the Circlip.
9 10 11 1516 1617 1718
Rotate the Grip Rubber so that the Check that the Shifter Cables run Mounting of Cable Housings The Grip Rubber and the Cable When connecting both components, Replace the Circlip back onto the gear indicator arrow falls between smoothly by pulling on each cable with integrated liners: Pulley will only marry in one slide the Grip Rubber fully over Shifter Housing. Check that the gears #6 and #7. Hold the Shifter end alternatively. The Grip Rubber Thread the Cable Stoppers back position. The Cable Pulley has 5 the Shifter Housing and lightly Shifter rotates freely. in this position. should rotate freely between both over each Shifter Cable and push blind holes which correlate with rotate until it falls into position in Pull Shifter Cable 1 completely bed-stops slightly beyond gears #1 these firmly into the Shifter the 5 pins found on the Grip the Cable Pulley. intop the Shifter Housing until the and #14. Housing facing in the correct Rubber. It is therefore impossible Nipple is seated correctly in the position. Make sure to fit Ferrules to re-mount the Grip Rubber Cable Pulley. between Cable Housing and Cable incorrectly. Stoppers. Lightly grease the inside of the TIP Grip Rubber prior to mounting ATTENTION Push the Rubber Grip lightly back over the Shifter Housing. Pushing the Cables without the into the final position over the O- Cable Stoppers fitted could ring until it reaches the bedstop. result in the Nipple becoming clamped on one of the Shifter Cable exits or within the Shifter 135 Housing itself. 136 Twist Shifter ‘light’- Left-hand (Art. #8207) Removing Shifter Cables for Replacement (Repair) Right-Hand Twist-Shifter Left-hand Twist Shifter Mounting
Cable 18 19 20 1 2 3 Stopper 1
Cable Stopper 14 Left-hand 14 1 Cable Stoppers Cable Run 1 + 14
Remove both Shifter Cables Rotate the Shifter (with fitted Remove both Cable Stoppers. The Twist Shifter works with two The Cable Stoppers for both Slide the Twist Shifter over the housings and corresponding Cable Stoppers) until the gear Push Shifter Cable 14 out of the shifter cables. When the Twist shifter cables are identical and are left-hand handlebar end (handlebar Ferrules from the Shifter Housing. indicator on the Shifter Housing is Shifter Housing until the Nipple is Shifter is rotated forward simply inserted into the shifter diameter 22 - 22.3mm / 7/8”). positioned between numbers 8 free. Pull the Cable Nipple to (direction of gear #14), then then housing facing in opposing Rotate the Twist Shifter so that the and 9. Hold the Shifter in this completely remove the Shifter the rear shifter cable #14 is directions. The Cable Stoppers can Cable Stoppers are evenly Position. Cable. pulled.When the Twist Shifter is only be fully inserted if fitted distanced above and below the rotated backwards (direction of correctly. An incorrect mounting is gear #1), then then the rear shifter therefore impossible. cable #1 is pulled. Mounting Shifter cables:
21 22 23 4 5 1
Right-hand Cable Run
2
Rotate the Shifter (with fitted Remove both Cable Stoppers. Refit the Shifter Cables into the Both Clamp Screws (M3x12 - Torx Cable Stoppers) until the gear Push Shifter Cable 1 out of the Twist Shifter as described in the TX20) should be lightly fitted so that the gap between both clamp indicator on the Shifter Housing is Shifter Housing until the Nipple is mounting instructions - Fig. 6 - 11. 7 6 5 4 3 now positioned between numbers free. Pull the Cable Nipple to elements is identical. 6 and 7. Hold the Shifter in this completely remove the Shifter 1 = Clamp Screws (Art. #8192) Position. Cable. Insert the screws using the pressure of just two fingers on the 2 = Clamp with Clamp Screws (Art. #8193) TX20 tool. Finally tighten each 3 = Cable Stoppers (Art. #8191) ATTENTION screw by max. 1/2 rotation. 4 = Shifter Housing (Art. #SA 01) The Twist Shifter should now be 5 = Cable Pulley with O-Ring/Rubber Seal (Art. #8194) Pushing the Cables without the tightly secured to the handlebars. 6 = Rubber Grip with O-Ring/Rubber Seal (Art. #8195) Cable Stoppers fitted could 7 = Circlip (Art. #SA 18-N) result in the Nipple becoming clamped on one of the Shifter ATTENTION Cable exits or within the Shifter Housing itself. Over tightening of the Clamp Screws can cause damage to 137 both Twist Shifter and/or 1138 handlebars. Fitment of Shifter Cables Rubber Grip replacement - Left-hand (Art. #8195)
6 7 8 12 13 14 Grease
Fitment of Shifter Cable 14: Rotate the Grip Rubber so that the InsertShifter Cable 1 into the Replacement: Before fitting the replacement Grip Rubber, check that the O-ring is seated Remove both Cable Stoppers from gear indicator arrow falls between Cable Pulley as illustrated above, When replacing the Grip Rubber, it correctly on the Cable Pulley. the Shifter Housing. gears #8 and #9. Hold the Shifter until the cable end exits the Shifter is not necessary to remove or InsertShifter Cable 14 into the in this position. Housing. replace the shifter cables. Cable Pulley as illustrated above, Pull Shifter Cable 14 completely TIP until the cable end exits the Shifter intop the Shifter Housing until the Using a small, flat screwdriver Housing. Nipple is seated correctly in the prise the Circlip out of position Lightly grease the inside of the Cable Pulley. and remove from the Shifter Cable Pulley to ensure easy Housing. operation.
9 10 11 15 16 17 Grease
Rotate the Grip Rubber so that the Check that the Shifter Cables run Mounting of Cable Housings The Grip Rubber and the Cable When connecting both components, Replace the Circlip back onto the gear indicator arrow falls between smoothly by pulling on each cable with integrated liners: Pulley will only marry in one slide the Grip Rubber fully over Shifter Housing. Check that the gears #6 and #7. Hold the Shifter end alternatively. The Grip Rubber Thread the Cable Stoppers back position. The Cable Pulley has 5 the Shifter Housing and lightly Shifter rotates freely. in this position. should rotate freely between both over each Shifter Cable and push blind holes which correlate with rotate until it falls into position in Pull Shifter Cable 1 completely bed-stops slightly beyond gears #1 these firmly into the Shifter the 5 pins found on the Grip the Cable Pulley. intop the Shifter Housing until the and #14. Housing facing in the correct Rubber. It is therefore impossible Nipple is seated correctly in the position. Make sure to fit Ferrules to re-mount the Grip Rubber Cable Pulley. between Cable Housing and Cable incorrectly. Stoppers. TIP ATTENTION Push the Rubber Grip lightly Pushing the Cables without the into the final position over the Cable Stoppers fitted could O-ring until it reaches the result in the Nipple becoming bedstop. clamped on one of the Shifter Cable exits or within the Shifter 2139 Housing itself. 140 Notes
Removing Shifter Cables for Replacement (Repair) - Left-Hand Twist Shifter
18 19 20
Remove both Shifter Cables Rotate the Shifter (with fitted Remove both Cable Stoppers. housings and corresponding Cable Stoppers) until the gear Push Shifter Cable 14 out of the Ferrules from the Shifter Housing. indicator on the Shifter Housing is Shifter Housing until the Nipple is positioned between numbers 8 free. Pull the Cable Nipple to and 9. Hold the Shifter in this completely remove the Shifter Position. Cable.
Mounting Shifter Cables:
21 22 23
Rotate the Shifter (with fitted Remove both Cable Stoppers. Refit the Shifter Cables into the Cable Stoppers) until the gear Push Shifter Cable 1 out of the Twist Shifter as described in the indicator on the Shifter Housing is Shifter Housing until the Nipple is mounting instructions - Fig 6 to 11. now positioned between numbers free. Pull the Cable Nipple to 6 and 7. Hold the Shifter in this completely remove the Shifter Position. Cable.
ATTENTION Pushing the Cables without the Cable Stoppers fitted could result in the Nipple getting clamped on one of the Shifter Cable exits or within the Shifter Housing itself.
141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 Notes
This Owners Manual is also available in a variety of other languages. Should you require a different version, you can download it from our homepage under:
www.rohloff.de > download > description > owners manual
The following languages are available:
-English -German -French -Dutch
TIP -Owners Manual - Newest version -Films -Technology Presentation CD The newest version of this Manual is available on the web under: www.rohloff.de > download > description > owners manual
Further to the manual, the most important work, service and repairs on the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 are shown in short films on the web. www.rohloff.de > videos > workshop ...
The technology Presentation CD(Art. #8296) explains the function and build of the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 with the use of various animations and further in-depth technical details
151 152 Index Index
Keyword Page Keyword Page A Advantagesoftheoptions 38 N Noises 6 Axle plate alignment 64 Notes 134-135 Axle plates 46 O OEMaxleplate 67 Axle ring - One-piece / Quick-change 98, 104 OEM2-mountingwithasupportbolt/SPEEDBONE 59 Axle types 24 OEM2 axle plate 67 B Beltdrive System (Gates Carbon Drive) 3, 48 Oil change 7, 87 Bolt/tool info 124 One-piece axle ring - removal 92 Brake disc - replacement 60, 91 Options 38 Brake discs / rotors 37 P Packagecontents-checking 51 Break-in period 6 Particular components 45, 46, 47 C Cableroutingviathebrakeboss-Internalgearmech 76 Pushing the bike 6 Cable routing via the chainstay - External gear mech 80 Q Quick-change axle ring -removal 92 Cable routing via the chainstay - Internal gear mech 79 R Racing bike/drop handlebars 46 Cable routing via the top tube - External gear mech 83 Reference to Serial No. 128 Carbon handlebars 48 Removal of the wheel from the frame 13 Chainguide-DH(accessoryfordownhill) 45,58 Chain guide - CC 71 Replacing the gear unit 92 Chaintensioner-DH(accessoryfordownhill) 45,68,69 Reversing / Replacing of the sprocket 90 Chain tensioner - mounting 70 Riding noises 6 Chain tensioner spring - changing 109 Rims 46 Chainguard enclosed 48 Rubber grip - replacement 110 Chainring - two chainrings 45, 47 S Safetyinformation 3 Cleaning the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 7 Schlumpf Speed-drive, High Speed-drive 47 Colors 33 Securing to the frame 23-30 Comparison -Derailleurgearsand RohloffSPEEDHUB 500/14 21 Serial No. - Pointers 128 Comparison to derailleur gears 22 Service procedures 96 Components that we recommend 45 Shifter - mounting 73 Cranks, Crankset 45, 57 Shifter cables 75 D Distance travelled per crank revolution (20", 26" and 28") 20 Shifting gears 5 E EccentricBB 48 Small parts bag - checking the contents 53 Effective Rim Diameter - calculating 44 Small wheels 47 Emergency repairs 10 Smallest permitted sprocket ratios 19 External gear mech - grub screw 129 Special applications 47, 48 External gear mech - mounting 32, 93 SPEEDBONE 46 Externalgearmech-OEM/OEM2/longtorquearm 63 Spoke length - calculating 42, 43 F Flangebreakagesonbicyclehubs-possiblecauses 132 Spokes 46, 130 Failure Diagnosis 119 Sprocket ratios - smallest 19 Filling with oil 84 Sprocket reversing/replacement 90 Frame mounted gear box 47 Sprockets 45 Frametypes-OEM/OEM2/longtorquearm 27-29 Stand - axle mounted 47 G GatesCarbonDrive 3, 48 T Tandem use 47 Gear display 83 Technical data 17, 127 Gear mech - replacement 92 Tools and Bolts / Tools for the tour 124 , 9 Gear unit - installation - removal 111, 112 Torque securing 25 Grub screw of the External gear mech 129 Tour info 9 Guarantee information 1, 128 Trailer use 47 H Hubcable-replacement 97 Hub seal - replacement 114 Transport - Info for the tour 9 I Internalgearmech 31 Trouble shooting 119 Internalgearmech-viabrakeboss/viachainstay 61,62 Twist shifter - mounting 73 L Longtorquearm 56 W Warrantyinformation 1, 128 M Maintenanceandcare 7, 8, 89 Wearable parts 6 Mechanical efficiency - comparsion 18 Weight comparison 18 Model codes - explanation 33 Wheel installation 14 Model variations 39 WheellacingforrimswithaEuropeanspokeholepattern 125 Modular system 23 WheellacingforrimswithaFrenchspokeholepattern 126 Mounting(CC/TSversions)withalongtorquearm 65,66 Wheelremoval(internal,externalgearmech) 11 Mounting necessities OEM2 30 Wheel stability 41 Mounting processes 49 Wheel lacing 55, 130
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