INDEX Volume 30 l Issue 62 l 1988 Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher This issue comprises all of Volume 30

A 339-40; Oregon Section, 340; Sierra Nevada Section, 340-41 Abbottx Lmduay. 220-21 American Medical Research Expedition to Everest, Abi Gamin (Garhwal HImalaya). 227 scicntijc re.w/f.rof, 84. 85. 86 Abrego, Marl. 267-68 Ampato (Cordillera Occidental, Peru). 163 Acctdentv Aconcagua. 17 I ; Annapuma. 2 I8- 19, 220; Amundnen, Ragnhild, 248 Denali. 109-13, Denalt Nattonal Park and Preserve, Anderson. Douglas C., IO0 108, 109-13: Everest. 26X. 272: Foraker, 1 IO, 113: Andes (South America), irrdion remcrins in. 172 Gasherbtum II, 247: Hagshu. 239: Hldden Peak, Angel (Revelation Mountains. Alaska). I I9 246; Hualcahualca, 164, Hunter, I IO, 113: Illimam, Angmagssalik (Greenland), 93. 97, 98, 99-100. 102. 169; K2. 24446; KangchenJunga. 1X4-86: 103. 104. 10s Kangchungtse, 195: Klara Zetkm. 2RR: Anker. Conrad D., wt.. 69-75; 109 Kommuntzma, 288; Kumbhakama, 191; Kun. 239: Annapurna (Nepal Himalaya), 2 IX-20 Kunyang Chhish, 256: Lhot\e Shar. 201: Manaslu, Annapurna II (Nepal Himalaya). 215 214, Nepal, 186: Shtgri Parbat. 23X; Shwling, 231 Annapurna IV (Nepal Himalaya), 215-1X Acheson. Altstatr, IO0 Annapuma Dakshin (Nepal Himalaya), 221 Aconcagua (Argentma), 170-72. 173 Antarctica, 178-80 Adela Central (Patagonia), 178 Antelope Tower (Canyonlands National Park, Utah), Aeohan Tower (Utah), I39 I41 Africa, I80 Antonio Masio, Jose. 239 Agter. Marceau, 97 Anvers Island (Antarctica), 17X-80 Agnolottr. G~useppe, 100 Anyemaqen IX (Kunlun Mountains, China), 266 Ahmed, Iqbal, 21-28 Aota, Hiroshi. 224 A~gutlle. See specific name Apostelens Tommelfinger (Greenland), 99 “Alguille Jr ” (Swra Nevada, California). 136 Aprin. Hooman, 190-91 Airport Tower. See Aeolian Tower Araca Group (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Bolivia), Akela Qtla. See CB 46. 166-68 Ak-Su Skalnoye (Turkestan Range, USSR), 289 Arapiles. Mount (Australia), art.. 60-68 Akultarweq Penmsula (Greenland). 97. 100, 103 Arches National Park (Utah), 140-41 Alarka, art.. 69-75; 108-26 Arctic, I51 Alaska Range (Alaska). arr.. 69-75; 10X-19 Arenas (Chile). 169.70 Alaska Range Peak 9220. I IS. Peak 96X0, 115. Peak Argandhom (Greenland). 99 9810, 109, 118; Peak 10300. I IX: Peak 10310, 118: Peak 11091, 118: Peak 11288. 11X-19: Peak Il300. Argentina. nrts..49-51. 53-55: 56-57. 169-73. 174.76. ml-ems of, I I2 178 Aleksandre Bloka (Turkeqtan Range. USSR), 289 Argon Tower (Arches National Park, Utah), 140 Alibert, Philippe, 239 Arizona, 142 Allan. Sandy, 270. 286 Arko, Vojslav. 175, 176-78 Allen, Bryden. 64 Arribas, Santiago, 263 Allen. C. Roger, 96 Artesonraju (. Peru). ISh, 1.58, I60 Allen, Elizabeth. 21-2X Asgard. Mount (Baffin Island). I.51 Allen, Rick, 270 Asia, 1X0-288 Allsup. Jack, 266-67 Atabekovoi (Turkestan Range, USSR). 289 (Cordillera Blanca. Peru), 156, 158. I60 Atacama, Puna de (Chile), 169 Alpe Fjord (Greenland), 97, 104 Athens, Peter. 2045 Altar Group (Ecuador), 155-56 Atter, Mount (Greenland), 105-6 Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya). 195-99 Audoulxrt, Louis, 248 Amat. Manuel. 247 Augusta, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains. Yukon Ambarin Sar (Karakoram Range. Pakistan), 259 Territory), arr., 76-79; 145 Amertcan Alpine Club, The: Blue Ridge Section, 338; Australia. art.. 60-68 Cascade Section. 338-39; New York Sectton, Auyuittuq National Park (Baffin Island), IS I

349 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL I988

B Btafo Glacter Regton (Karahoram Range. PakiQan). 254.56 Back Porch (Skunk Canyon. Colorado). X9 Bianchettt. Alberta. I05 Baftin Island (Canada). 151 Btanchi. Grartano. 103 Bajde, Inko. 99 Btg Bend Butte (Utah). 138 Bamba Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya). 226 Btg Kangaroo (Caccade Mountainr. Wa\hmgton), 129 Bandarpunch (Garhwal Himalaya). 23.5 Btghorn Mountains tWyommg). 143 Bandarpunch Range (Garhwal Himalaya). 235 Bt\wa?. MrityunJoy, 228 Barauca (Argentina). 172 Bitterroot Range (Montana). 143 Barber. Henry. 64 Brzjak, Jane/. 98 Barcena. Roberto, 172 BJQrnetaer(Greenland). 98 Bardoloi. Rajendra, 235 Brorn\tad. Enc. 138.41, 142. 144 Baring Mount (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 131 Blackburn, Mount (Wrangell Mountam\. Alarka). 132 120, I21 Barrill, Edward. art.. 80-X2 Blanco, Cerro (Mexico). 155 Barrill, Marjorie McKinley, nrr.. 80-82 Blashford-Snell. John. 282 Barrille. Mount (Alaska Range), 113-15: a.rc~nf.~ of, Bletcher, Hubert, 256-S8 I I2 Blodgett Canyon (BItterroot Range, Montana). 143 Barth Bjege (Greenland), 100 Bogda (Tie” Shan. Chma), 286 Bartlett, Alan, I35 Botvin. Jean-Marc, 91 Baruntse (Nepal Himalaya), 195 Bolivia, 164-69 Batard. Marc. 207, 224 Bonmgton, Christian. 275-78 Bates. Robert H.. 290-92 BOOK REVIEWS Bathtub Butte (Glen Canyon, Utah). 140 Angel\ of Ltght. Jeff Long. 3 IO- I2 Batkov. Todor. 288 Cloud\ from Both Stdes. Julie Tullig. 290-91 Batura (Karakoram Range. Pakistan). 258 Degree\ of Dtfficulty. Vladtmtr Shatayev. 303-4 Batura Glacier Region (Karakoram Range. Pakistan). A Dream of White Horses, Edwm Drummond. 2.58-59 301-3 Bauman. John. I20 The Etght Sailing/Mountain-Exploratton Books. H. Bauman, Thomas. 109, 115-17 W. Ttlman, 298-99 Baumann. Brtmo, 287 El entgma de 10s santuartos indtgenas de alta Baumgattner, Winfried, 96 montaita, Antonio Beorchia Ntgrts, 29.5-96 Beadle, Robin, 229-30 El Evere\t. Htstoria de una conqutzta, Conrad Bear Canyon (Front Range. Colorado). 89 Blanch and Joan Massons. 319 Beattie, Canfield, obit.. 332 The Everest Years: A Chmber’s Ltfe, Chrt? Beaver, Cliff, 109. I17 Bonington. 300 Beaves. H. W.. 100 Extreme Rock: Great Brittsh Rock Cltmbs. Ken Becher, Gianni Pais, 103, 104. I06 Wtlgon and Bernard Newman, cornprIer\, 308-10 Becker, Jochem, 106 Gomg Htgher: The Story of Man and Altttude. Beckey. Fred. 130. 143. 147. 148, I55 Charle\ S. Houston, 312-14 Beghin. Pierre, 191-92 Hypothermia and Cold Belak, Stane. 224-25 Injury, Evan L Lloyd, 314 Bell, George I.. Jr.. IS8 K2. John Barry. 292 Bell Buttress (Boulder Canyon. Colorado), 90 K2, Triumph and Tragedy. Jim Curran, 291-92 Bella Coola Icecap (Coast Mountains, British Mountam People, Mtchael Tobtas, edttor, 296-97 Columbia). 147 Nanda Dew: The Tragic Expedition, John Bergamaschi, Arturo, 228, 230 Roqkelley. 2Y2-94 Berger. Eugene. 247 Norman Collie. A Ltfe in Two Worlds-Mountam Berger. Philippe. 221 Explorer and Sctentist. 1859-1942. Chriwne Berljak, Darko. 207-9 Mtll, 300-301 Bermejo. Javier. 264 The Outdoor Athlete. Total Training for Outdoor Bernstein. Jeremy. 296-97 Performance. Steve Ilg. 314-19 Bersaerkerbrae (Greenland), 104, IO.5 Patagonta. Terra magica Per alpimstr e viaggiatori. Betancourt, Jose, I56 Gmo Buscaini and Silvta Metzeltin. 294-95 Bhagirathi II (Garhwal Himalaya), 229 Pure and Perpetual Snow: Two Chmba in the Andes Bharte Khunta (Garhwal Himalaya), 230 of Peru, David Mazel, 310 Bhrigupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 235, 248 Rock Chmbs m the White Mountams of New Bhrikuti Shail (Nepal Himalaya), I86 Hampshire. Second Editron, Ed Webster, 307-8

350 INDEX

Uberlebt: Alle I4 Achttausender, Reinhold Messner. Carter. H. Adams, 294-95, 300, 319 294 Carville. Michael, 134-35, 143 Yosemite Climbs. George Meyers and Don Reid, Cascade Mountains (Brttt\h Columbta). 147.48 304-7 Cascade Mountams (Washmgton), 128-34 Borgbjerg Glacier (Greenland). 96 Castle Mountams (Montana), 142 Borlee. Jacques, 105 Caqtle Peak (Cascade Mountam>, Washmgton), 128-29 Borumter Sar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 259 Ca$tle Rock (Boulder Canyon. Colorado), 89 Bouchard. Jim. I IX Cathedral Spires (Kxhatna Mountam\. Alaska). Bouchard. John. arr.. 91.92 ‘IF(‘BillSof, I I2 Boulder Canyon (Front Range, Colorado). 89.90 Cauthom. Daniel W , 228.29 Boundary Peak 86. Srr Ogden. Mount. CB 46 (Htmachal Pradesh). 238 Boundary Peak 173. See Wade, Mount. CB 47 (Hlmachal Pradesh), 238 Bayer. Steven. 203-4 CB 49 (Hnnachal Pradesh). 238 “Bradley, Mount” (Alaska Range), I 13: (~,scen!s qf; CB 53 (Htmachal Pradesh). 238 II2 Chacacomant E\te (Cordtllera Real. Bohvta). I65 Braham. Trevor. I86 Chacacoman) Group (Corddlera Real, Bolivta), 16465 Breadmore. P. D., 97 Chacacomant Oeate (Cordtllera Real. Bolivia). I65 Breashears. David, wt.. 5X-59 ChacraraJu Este (Corddlera Blanca. Peru). IS6 Brenner. Eduardo. I75 Chamlang East (Nepal Htmalaya). 19.5 Bretherton. Chris, 123.25 Changbu (Nepal Htmalaya), I86 Breuil. Marc, I04 Changla (Nepal HImalaya), I86 Brimmer. Steven. 2 I6- I8 Changtye (Tibet). 272-74 British Columbia. 146-5 I Changuch (Garhwal Htmalaya). 226 Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan). 242, 247, Chantran, Francots, 239 248-50, 25 I ; n//if& of, 182.83 Chase. James, 327-29 Broken Tooth (Alaska Range), 109. 115.17; uscmts ChatterJee. P. K., 228 0.f. II2 Chau Chau Kang Nilda. See Guan Nilda Browning. Michael F.. 29.36 Chaukhamba (Garhwal HImalaya), 227 Brunckhorst, Ron. 142.43 Chearoco (Corddlera Real, Bohvta). 165, 166 Bruno, John C. D., I26 Cheesmond, Davtd Malcolm, obrr.. 335-37 Buchanan. Doug. I 18 Cheney, Michael 1.. 187-88, 193, 194-95. 196, Buckley, Gerald. 123, I26 199-200. 201-2, 204. 206-7, 210. 212, 213.14. 215, Bugaboo Group (Purcell Range, British Columbia). 218-20, 221.222-24. 225 148 Cheng. Ttan-Llan, 278 Buhler. Carlos. (IN., 4 I-48: I63 Chertan. K. V.. 184 Burdo. Bryan. 130-32 “Chernobyl Wall” (Sterra Nevada, Cahfomta), 137 Burgess. Adrian. 201 Chtld. Gregory. 240.43 Buscaini. Silvia Metzeltin. (wl.. 56.57; 174 Chtle. 169-70, 173-74. 176 Butler. Philip. 21-2X Chtlkoot Inlet (Coast Mountama. Alaska). 126 Buttonrock Reservoir (Front Range, Colorado), 90 Chlmborazo (Ecuador), IS6 China, 265.66, 286-88 C Chma. See u/so Ttbet. Chitma Glacter (Satnt Ehas Mountants. Alaska). 122 Cairns. Andy, I3 I Cho Oyu (Nepal Htmalaya). 209-I I, 2 I2 Calhoun. Kitty. 223 Cho Oyu (Ttbet), 274-75; proglider de.wnrfrom. California, urr.. l-14; 128, 134.38 275 Calsonani (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Bolivia). 168 Chogolisa (Karakoram Range, Pakt\tan). 250 Campanile. A.. I56 Chomoyummo (Sikktm Himalaya). 184 Canada, 145-5 I Choptcalqur (Corddlera Blanca, Peru). 156-58 Candelabrum (Arches National Park, Utah), 140 Choquetango Group (Corddlera Quimca Cruz. Candelaria. Bob, 89 Bohvta), 168-69 Cankar. Slavko. 248. 25 I Choudhary, A.. 227 Canyonlands National Park (Utah), I41 Chugach Mountains (Alaska). 119-21 (Cordillera Blanca, Peru). I56 Chugach Mountains: Peak4800, 121. Peak 4815, 121; Caraz III (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 158 Peak4900, 121; Peak 5000. 121; Peak 5178, 121; Carlson. Mike 76-79 Peak 7000+, 120; Peak 8380, 120; Peak 8400+. Carpenter. Tim C.. 340 120; Peak 8555. 120 Carrigan, Kim. 63. 64 Chulu West (Nepal Himalaya), 215

3.5/ THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL I988

Chung, Jin-Yang, 21 I D Churen Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 225 Chmbing ethics, See Ethtcs. Da Polenza Agostino, 262 Climbing exchanges: Czechoslovakian. 126-28; Dade, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California), 137 Sovtet, 289 Dallago, France, 97 Climbme meets: Australia, art.. 60-68 “Dambil Bamba” (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 165 Cloud Peak (Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming), 143 Dan Beard, Mount (Alaska Range). nsrenrs of, I12 Clyde Minaret (Sierra Nevada, California), 134-35 Dandona, Vinod K., 227 Coast Mountains (Alaska). 126 Dansketinde (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 102. 103 Coast Mountains (Alaska): Peak 5000. 126 Das, Bibhas, 237 Coast Mountains (British Columbia), 146-47 Datar, Shrinivas, 226 Coast Mountams (Oregon), 134 Davis Peak (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 130-31 Cochran, George Van B., 151 Day, Henry, 282 Coffield. Dana. I80 Deadman Buttress (California), 134 Cohen, Geoffrey, 258-59 Deak, Jon, 195 Colby, William E., 137 Deborah, Mount (Alaska Range), I I8 Collins, Greg, 15-20 Decamp, Erik. 287-88 Colomer. Jordi, 105, 222 Deer Ridge Buttress (Front Range, Colorado), 144 Colorado. art., 87-90: 128, 144-45 Deerhom Mountain (Sierra Nevada. California), 137 Colorado National Monument (Colorado), I44 Delacroix. Jean-Marie, I04 Colque Cruz (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru). 163 Delcasso, Eric. 222 Colquejahui (Cordtllera Real, Bolivia), 165 Columbta Mountams (British Columbia), 148 Denali (Alaska Range). cwt.. 8082: 108-13. 120; ascenrs of. 108. 109. I 12; 108-9 Cook, Fredenck A., art., 80-82 smfisrics. Cooley. John, 29-36 Denah National Park and Preserve (Alaska). 108.13; Coombs, David K., 331-32 accidents MI, 108, 109-13: ascents in. 108-9, 112; Cordillera Blanca (Peru), 156-61 srarisrics, 108-9 Cordillera Huallanca (Peru), I61 Desio, Ardito, 180-83 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru), 161-63 Detterline, James. 142, 144. 344-45 Cordtllera Occidental (Peru), 163-64 Deuchi, Ataru, 279 Corddlera Ouimsa Cruz (Bolivia), 166-69 Dey, Shyamal. 238 Cordillera Quimsa CNZ: Peak 4800, 168: Peak 5021. Dhaulagiri (Nepal Himalaya), 222-25 168: Peak 5050, 168; Peak 5104, 168: Peak 51 IO. Dhaulagiri V (Nepal Himalaya). 225 168; Peak 5297, 168; Peak 5304, I68 Diaz, Miguel, 223 Cordillera Real (Bolivia). 164-66, 169 Dickey, Mount (Alaska Range), 113; oscenrs of, I I2 Cordillera Real: Peak 5170, 166; Peak 5200, 165; Peak Dieppe Mountain (Rocky Mountains, Canada). 149-51 5225, 165: Peak 5250. 165; Peak 5260, 164; Peak Diets, Richard, 279 5270, 165; Peak 5340. 165 Dingle. Graeme. 239 Cordillera Urubamba (Peru), 163 Diomsi, Gtuseppe. 102, 103 Cordtllera Vilcabamba (Peru), art., 41-48 Do, Chang-Ho. 225 Cordtllera Vilcanota (Peru), 163 Doege, Richard Loren, 133-34 Cordillera Volcanica (Peru), 163-64 Dollo, Louis, 194 Cordillera Yauyos (Peru), 164 Dolmalari (Tibet), 283-84 Cot&, Antonio, 248 Dolomite Tower (Cascade Mountains. Washington), Cotter, Robert, 132 131-32 Cottontail Tower (Utah), 139 Doorish, Pete. 131-32 Cotuni (Cordillera Yauyos, Peru), 164 Dorje. Lhakpa. 29-36 Couch. James, 133 Dottori, Destderio. 97 Craig, Bruce. 21-28 Dragontail Peak (Cascade Mountains. Washington), Croucher, Norman, 242,248 129-30 Grouse, Bill, 109 Droyer, Jean-Claude, 63 Crown (China), 286 Druid Arch (Canyonlands National Park, Utah), IJI Cudowtcz, Alex, I31 Duff, Malcolm. 199-200 Cuemos de Diablo (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), Dunnottar (Greenland), 104, 105 165 Dunnottar Glacier (Greenland), 104. IO.5 Cumberland Peninsula (Baftin Island), I5 I Duranpo (Colorado), 144-45 Cunningham, James, 220 Durazno (Argentina), 173

352 INDEX

E Fttz Roy (Patagonia), 49, 175, 178 Flathead Sptre (Bttterroot Range. Montana), 143 Eagle Plume Tower (Valley of the God\, Utah). 139 Flattrons (Front Range, Colorado), 89 Ebert. James (Jim). 342.43 Fletcher, Patricta A , 300-301 Echeverria. Evelio, 295-96 Foger, Walter, 103 Echo Tower (Utah), 139 Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range), I IO. 113. ascenr.s of, Ecuador. 155-56 II2 Egger (Patagonia), arts., 49-51, 53.55 Fordham, Derek, I04 Eguskitza. Xavier, 201, 246, 247. 248, 266, 279-80, Forel, Mount (Greenland). 99, 102. 104, 105 283 Forked Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 184 Egypt. 180 Forno, Oreste, 280 Eisenhard, Soren, 104 Four Horsemen (Revelation Mountains, Alaska), I I9 Eitel. Hans, 210 Foweraker. Greg, 76-79 El Capitan (Yosemite. California), I28 Fowler, Charles, 89 Eldorado Springs Canyon (Colorado), 87-89 Fowler, George. 2 l-28 Eldridge Glacier (Alaska Range). I I8 Fowler. Michael A.. 2 I-28 Elephant Rock (Coast Mountains. Oregon), 134 Francais, Mont (Anvers Island. Antarctica), 178-80 Elephant’s Feet (Arizona), 142 Frantar. ManJa, 221 Ellesmere Island. I5 I Frantar, Slavko. 37-40 Elliott, Tom. I51 Free chmbmg. err., 87-90. I31 Embick. Andrew, 120-21 Freer Cathenne M., dir.. 333-35 Endo, Haruyuki. 244 Freese. Lloyd, I45 Energia (Fanskiye Gory Mountains. USSR), 289 Fremont Morse, Mount (Coast Mountains. Alaska), Enger, Bill, 131 126 English, John. 2 I-28 French, Robert H. S . 327 Erard, Philip, 339-40 Freudenretch, Irene. 100 Erasmus, Mount (Rocky Mountains. Canada). 149 Freudenretch. Wolfgang, 100 Ericsson Crags (Sierra Nevada, California), 135 Freya. Mount (Baftin Island). I51 Ernst. Ricardo, 108. I I7 Fries, James F.. 193-94 Esteve, Alain, 200 Front Range (Colorado), nrr 87-90: 128. I44 Estruch. Josep, 248-50 Fukuzawa. Katsuyukl. 213 Ethics. arts.. 56-57, 58-59: 87, 137-38 Fury. Mount (Cascade Mountams, Washmgton), Evans, Andrew, 194 133,134 Everest (Nepal Himalaya), 202-6: a~crn~.r qf. I8384 Everest (Tibet), 266-72: u/tin& c$ 180-83; u.rcenr,r of, G 183-84 Evigheds Fjord (Greenland), 97, 98, 99, 102, 105-6 Gable, Carl, 341-42 Ewbank. John, 64 Gaetani, Lodovico. 100 Gagner, Paul, 109 F Gblfy, Ivan. 202 Fairweather, Mount (Fairweather Range, Alaska), Gama Sokha Lumbu (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 123-25 19-20 Ganesh V (Nepal Htmalaya). 213 Fairweather Range (Alaska), 123.25 Fairweather Range: Peak 13820, 125 Gangapuma (Nepal Htmalaya). 2 I8 Gangotn Region (Garhwal Htmalaya), 228 Fangst Hytte Glacier (Greenland), 98 Gardas, AndrzeJ. I71 Fanskiye Gory Mountains (USSR). 289 Gardmer, Steve. I21 Famham. Dale, I3 I. I32 Farquhar, Francis P.. I37 Garhwal (India), art., 37-40: 186, 225-35 Fasciolo, Gianni. 103 Garhwal: Peak, 6210, 228: Peak 6561, 228.29; Peak 6651, 186; Peak 6721. 229; Peak 6805, lR6 Fauquet, Michel. 193-94 Gamer, Wtlltam Vaughan, 303-4 Federico, G., 228 Femstjernen (Greenland). 102, 103 Garrett, James, 69-75, 109 Fendt, Alfred. 265 Garrtdo. Fernando. 2 I I Finlay, R. J., 102 Ga$herbrum. Ser Hldden Peak Firey. Carla. 333-35 Gasherbrum II (Karakoram Range. Pakistan). 247-48 Fischer, Scott. 269.70 Gasherbtum IV (Karakoram Range, Paktstan), drirude Fischesser. Michael. 14546 of, 183 Fisher Towers (Utah). 139 Gebel. See Jebel

353 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1988

Geling (Himachal Pradesh), 237 H Gemse Peak (Cascade Mountains, British Columbia), 147 Hagshu (Kashmir), 239 Gentilini. Agostini, 100 Hahm, Tak-Young, 206 Gerdes, Karl. 340-41 Hatd, Arthur. 214 Ghenish Chhish. See Spantik. Half Dome (Yosemite. California), I28 Ghosh. Sanat, 235 Hall, Robert, 218 Chur (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 254-56 Hallam, Mark, 248 Giarolli, Maurizio, 53-55 Halliday, Geoffrey, I00 Gill. Scott, 109, I I7 Hamosen. Charlie. 132 Gilman, Bradley Baldwin, o&r., 322-25 Hancbpiti(Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 166 Gimmigela (Sikkim Himalaya), 186 Hand (Pinnacles National Monument, California), I34 Glacier de France (Greenland), 98, 103 Hansen. Erik S., 292-94 Glamis (Greenland). 104 Harding lcefield (Chugach Mountains, Alaska), I21 Glen Canyon (Utah), 140 Harlech (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 99 Gobi Glacier (Greenland), 100 Harris. Paul, 41-48 Cocking. Roger, 158-60 Hartshome, Richard (Dobbs), 195 Goddard, Dale, 89 Harvard Mountameering Club, 341-42 Gogl. Klaus, 105 Hasegawa. Tsuneo. 272 Goldberg, Stefan, 29-36 Haszko, Richard, 260-62 Goldstone. Richard J., 314-19 Hawley, Elizabeth, 187-88, 193, 194-95, 196, Gomez, Juan Carlos, 219 199-200, 201-2, 204, 206.7, 210, 211-14, 215. Gomez, Lluis. 222 218-20. 221,222-24,225 Goodman, Donald J., 338-39 Headquarters Hill (Arches National Park, Utah), 140 Gorra Blanca (Patagonia), 175 Hechtel. Sibylle, 289 Gradzielewski. Mirostaw, 213 Hegde, Vmay, 238 Grajales. Fernando. 172-73 Hellberg, Ivar, 240 Henault. Jean-Etienne, 250 “Grand Asses Wall” (Alaska Range), I I3 Henderson. Kenneth A., 326-27 Grauer, Jack. 343-44 Herrtck. Dave, 29-36 Gray, Struan M.. 254-56 Herrhgkoffer, Karl Maria, 97 Green River Pyramid (Wind River Range, Wyoming), Hersman, Wilham G. (Willy), 120, 121. 345 143 Hesse, Mark, 263-64 Greenland, art.. 93-106; 153-55; bib/., 95-96; Htdden Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 246 climbing permissionfor. 93-95; logisrics. 95; mnps, High altitude mountaineering, physrcnl effects of, art.. 95 83-86; brbl.. 86 Greenland: Peak 1370, 103; Peak 1410, 103; Peak Hugh Latitude Research Group (Denali), I08 I51 I, 100; Peak 1530, 103; Peak 1713,99; Peak Hugh Srerra AlpmIsts of Merced, 137-38 1831, 106; Peak 1881,98,99: Peak 1960, 102 Hill, Chris, 89 Gribbon, Philip W. F.. 97 Hillary, Peter, 205-6 Griffin. Lindsay, 283 Himachal Pradesh (India), 235-38 Griffith, Christian, 87, 89 Himachal Pradesh: Peak 6185, 238; Peak 20078.238 Griljc. Vincent, 200 Himactna (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), I65 Grim, Harry, 262 Htmlung (Nepal Htmalaya), 214-15 Guan Nilda (Himachal Pradesh), 237 Hmdu Kush (Pakistan), 265 Gudelach. Ekkart, 239 Hindu RaJ (Pakrstan). 264 Guha. Kamal K., 184.86, 226-28, 229, 230, 237-38, Hiunchuh (Nepal Htmalaya). 220-21 239 Hjornespids (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 102 Guillaumet (Patagonia), 175 Hjorth, Michael, I54 Giillich, Wolfgang, 63, 64, 67 Ho Bluk (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 254 Gunn Peak (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 131 Hochstetter Forland (Greenland), 100 Gunnsbjomsfjeld (Watkins Mountains, Greenland), Hoeman. Grace. I20 I53 Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier (Wrangell Mountains, Gurney Peak (Kichatna Mountains, Alaska), arr.. Alaska). I22 69-75; 109 Holsteinborg (Greenland). 98 Gya (Himachal Pradesh), 237 Honda, Katuiti, 264 Gyadung (Himachal Pradesh). 237 Honegger, Bruno. 248 Gyagar (Himachal Pradesh), 237 Horan. Robert, or,.. 87-90 INDEX

Hornby, Geoffrey M , 225-26 J Houston. Charles S . 314. 320.22 Howard. Edward, 254 Jachcha Jokho (Cordillera Real. Bolivia), 164 Howorth, M. Beckett. obit.. 326 Jachcha Kkollu (Cordillera Real. Bolivia). I64 Howorth, Mariorie Maye Meehan, obir.. 326-27 Jachcha ThoJo (Cordillera Real, Bollvia), I64 Hawser Tower, South (Purcell Range, British Jacob’s Monument (Arilnna), 142 Columbia), 148 Jager, Claude, 247 Huacatia (Corddlera Real, Bohvta). 166 Jakoctre (Cordillera Real, Bolivia). I65 Huacratanca (Cordrllera Urubamba. Peru). I63 Jalli Huaykunka (Cordillera Real, Bohvia), I65 Hualcahualca (Cordillera Occidental, Peru), I64 Jammu (India), 239 Huaman Hueque Group (Cordillera Huallanca. Peru), Jankho Airi (Corddlera Real, Bollvia). I65 I61 Jannu. See Kumbhakama Huandoy Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), I56 Jara, Ricardo, 169 Huang Guan Shan See Crown Jardine, Michael, 287 Huari Umana (Cordillera Real, Boltvia). I65 Jayllahuaya Kunka (Corddlera Real, Bollvia). 164 Huarisepnatia (Cordillera Real, Bollvia), I65 Jeannet BJerg (Greenland). 99 Huascaran (Corddlera Blanca, Peru). 160 Jebel Gharib (Egypt), 180 Huascaran Norte (Corddlera Blanca. Peru). 156, 158 JegliE, Janez, 49-51 Huaucamn Sur (Corddlera Blanca. Peru), 156. I58 Jervts, Steven. 310-12 Huayna Potosi (Corddlera Real. Bohvta). 164. I65 Jewel], Tony, 15-20 Hubert. Alam, 1X7-88 Jirishanca (Corddlera Huayhuash, Peru), 161-63 Huggins, Joe. 89 Jiichler, Sepp. 109, I 13- I5 Humphreys. Mount (Sierra Nevada, Cahfomia), 135, Jogin (Garhwal Himalaya), 235 137-38 Johan Dahl Land (Greenland), 99, 102 Hunter, Mount (Alaska Range), I IO: oxenrs of, I I2 Johan Petersen FJord (Greenland). 105 Huntmgton. Mount (Alaska Range), crscents of. I I2 Johanson, Lars Goren. 99 “Hut Tower” (Alaska Range). II3 Johnson. Ken, 14748 Hydra Sylph (Revelation Mountarns. Alaska). I I9 Jones, Christopher A G., 30X- IO Joos, Norbert, 210 Jung. Sang-Moo, I88 I K lacovino, John, Jr., 195-97 K2 (Karakoram Range. Pakistan). 240-46; olrirude of. Iceclimbing: Alaska. 120-21; Chile. 169; Utah, I41 I SO-83 lcefield Ranges (Yukon Territory). 145.46 Kabru Dome (Sikkim Himalaya), I84 Ignacio Lorente, Juan, 246 Kahiltna Dome (Alaska Range), ascents o/: I 12 Ikasaulaq Fjord (Greenland). 98 Kalanag (Garhwal Himalaya). 235 Ilgner, Amo U., 143 Kamet (Garhwal Himalaya), 226-27 Illampu (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 166. 169 KangchenJunga (Sikkim Htmalaya), 1X4-86. 187, I88 Illimani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 164, 169 KangchenJunga South (Sikkim Himalaya), 1X7-88 Imjatse (Nepal Himalaya), 201 Kangchungtse (Nepal Himalaya), 194-95 Independence Monument (Colorado National Kangemsuaq Qingordleq (Greenland), 106 Monument, Colorado). 144 Kangiussaq (Greenland), 98 Index, Mount (Cascade Mountains. Washington), I32 Kap Farvel (Greenland), 93, 100, IO?, 106 India, art.. 37-40: 184-90. 225.40 Kapadia. Harish, 184, 235-37 Indian Creek (Utah), 139 Kaptam, Ned, 87 Ingle, Robert, 69-75, 109 Karag, Shyamar Krishna, 235 Ingolffjeld (Greenland). 106 Karakoram Range (Indta), 240 Karakoram Range (India). Peak 6640. 240 Ingraham, Robert. Jr., 135. 137.38 Karakoram Range (Pakistan). art.5 15-20. 21-28; Interior Ranges. See Columbia Mountains. 1X0-83, 240-62 Iowa Mountaineers, 342-43 Karakoram Range (Pakistan). Peak 5735, 258: Peak Ironing Boards (Front Range, Colorado), 89 5753,251; Peak 5957, 258; Peak 6090. 258.59: Iskander Ma1 (Turkestan Range, USSR), 289 Peak 18600, 254; Peak 19100. 19 Island Peak. See Imjatse. Karale Glacier (Greenland), 97. 103, 104 Istoronal North (Hindu Kush, Pakistan). 265 Karo, Silvo, art , 49-5 I ltivdleq Fjord (Greenland). 104-5 Karolczak, Tadeusz. 210 Izquierdo. Jaime, 226 Kashmir (India), 239

355 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1988

Kastelec. Janez. 37-40 Kunaver, Vlasta, or!.. 37-40 Kawakami. Takashi, 272 Kunlun Mountains (Chma). 266, 2X6-87 Keamey, Alan J., 128-29 Kunyang Chhish (Karakoram Range. Pakistan). 256 Kedamath (Garhwal Himalaya). 228 Kurtyka. WoJciech. 243 Kedamath Dome (Garhwal Himalaya), 228,230 Kwiatori. Jan, 239 Kejser Franz Joseph Fjord (Greenland), 106 Kysilka. Tom&, 231-33 Keleman, Peter, 129-30 Kenai Fiords (Alaska), 121 Kerr. Margaret, 262 L Ketil (Greenland). 97. 105, I54 Keystone Canyon (Chugach Mountains, Alaska). I21 Labrang (Htmachal Pradesh). 237 Khan Tengri (Tien Shari,, USSR), 288 Lang. Rudtger, 246 Kharchakund (Garhwal Himalaya), 229-30 Lang Dak (Nepal Himalaya). 186 Khatang (Nepal Himalaya), 212 Langshraha RI (Nepal Hrmalaya). 213 Khudabad Sar (Karakoram Range. Pakistan), 259 Langtang Ltrung (Nepal Hrmalaya), 212 Khullar, D. K.. 240 Langtang RI (Nepal Hrmalaya), 213 Khurdopin Glacier Region (Karakoram Range, Lapuch, Kurt, 259 Pakistan), 259-60 Laspa Dhura (Garhwal Htmalaya), 226 Kichatna Mountains (Alaska). or,.. 69-75: 109; crscenfs Latok (Karakoram Range, Paktctan), 25 I; nltitude of. in. I I2 254 Kichatna Spires. See Cathedral Spires. Latok II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 254; dtitudc Kikash (Cordillera Huallanca, Peru), I61 of. 254 Kimball, Mount (Alaska Range), I I8 Laturer. Andre. 239 King. Mazda, 1X8-90 Lauper BJerg (Greenland). 102, 154-55 King, S.,iO3 Leibundgut, Chris. I08 Kmgs Canyon (Sierra Nevada. Califomta), 136-37 Lenm (Pamus, USSR). 288 Kinoshita,.Hiroshi. 239 Lewts, Jack. 109, I IS-17 Klausbruckner. Bruno, 102 Lewis. Tony. 235 Klemenc, Stane, 102 Lhakhang (Himachal Pradesh), 237 Klondike Bluffs (Arches National Park. Utah). 140-41 Lhot\e (Nepal Himalaya), 201-2 Klosterbjerge (Greenland). 97 Lhotse Shar (Nepal Himalaya), 200-201 Knappe, Jiirgen, 207 Lindeman, Mount (Cascade Mountains. British Knee, FrarZek, 49-51 Columbia), 147-48 Knud Rasmussen Glacier (Greenland), 100. 103 Lindenows FJO~ (Greenland), 99 Koa Rong IV (Himachal Pradesh), 238 Lmdsay. Roy, 260 Kobler. Karl, 2 I2 Lingtr Valley (Spiti). 235-37 Koblmiiller. Edi. 256, 258 Little Swrtzerland (Alaska Range). axents in, II2 Kolakowski, Ryszatd. 172,235 Lockhart Canyon (Canyonlands National Park, Utah), Kolsto, Justyna, 23 I I41 Kommunizma (Pamirs, USSR), 288 Loenpo Gang (Nepal Htmalaya). 2 I2 Kornerup Land (Greenland), I02 Logan, Mount (Samt Elms Mountam?. Yukon Koroteev, V.. 288 Territory), art.. 76-79; I45 Korzhenevskoi (Pamirs, USSR), 288 Koshi Toshi (Kunlun Mountains, China). 286-87 Lomas Amarillas (Argentina), 172 Kost, Danny W., 122-23 Long Canyon (Utah), 13X-39 Kozak, David, 144-45 Long John Tower (Eldorado Sprmgs Canyon, Krajcirick, Victor, I75 Colorado), 89 Kristians Glacier (Greenland), 103, 104 Longs Peak (Front Range, Colorado). 128, 144 Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge (Greenland), 102 L&es. Jercimmo, 234 Kruszyna, Robert, 322-25 Loretan, Erhard, 91 Kubicka, Theodor, 258 Lowe, George H.. 111, 335-37 Kubik, Daviusz, 228 Lubuche Kang (Tibet). 278-79 Kukrety, Prem Lal , I84 Luis Garcia, Jose, 98 Kukuczka, Jerzy. 280 Lukpdla Brakk (Karakoram Range, Pakistan). art.. Kulkarni, D. T.. 227 15-20 Kumaon Himalaya. See Garhwal. Lwow, Aleksander, 210 Kumbhakama (Nepal Himalaya), 190-93 Lye11 Land (Greenland). 99 Kun (Kashmir). 239 Lynam, Joss P. 0. F., 272-74 INDEX

M Minaret (Purcell Range, British Columbia), I48 Miner. Todd, I21 - Maccib. Sergio. 99 Miodowicz-Wolf. Dobroshwa (Mrufka), 242. 244 Machnik. Andrzej. 194 Mtsch, Hans Peter, ohit.. 329-31 Maprinya. Jordi, 239 Mttoma. Tatsuhtsa, 223 Makalu (Nepal Himalaya), or,.. 29-36; 193-94 Mocha (Patagonia). 49. 5 I Makalu II. See Kangchungtse. Moldenhauer, Hans, ohrt.. 331-32 Makino, Haruo. 2 I3 Molenaar. Dee. 183-84, 329-31 Maldonado. Juan, 218-19 Momhtl Sar (Karakoram Range. Pakistan), 260 Malin. Karl. 102 Monashee Range (Columbta Mountams. Brittsh Mama Okllu Towers (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Columbia). I48 Bolivia). I68 Mottler. Enc. 187 Manaslu (Nepal Himalaya), 2 13-24 MonJa Grande (Ecuador). 156 Mandel. Martin, I98 Monso I Molas (Spanlard), 100 Manica. Mario. I76 Montana, 142.43 Manitsup Sermilia Fjord (Greenland), 100 Montgomery Cltff (Colorado), 144. 145 Mannix. Art, I08 Moore, Mount (Coast Mountams, Brttish Columbia). Marcus Baker, Mount (Chugach Mountains, Alaska), 146-47 I 19-20 Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range). r(scentr @, I I2 Maria Maw. Josep, 219 Moro’oka, Htsahiro. 2X6 Matinfic. Sandt. 37-40 Morro Chato (Argenttna). 172 Marmier, Jean Claude, 99 Mottlal (Sherpa), 29.36 Marshall, Jeff, 76-79 Mountameermg Solo: Aconcagua. 17 l-72, Arenas. Marshall, Roger. 267, 268: ohir.. 327.29 169: Broad Peak, 248; Cho Oyu. 210. 21 I: Maslowski. Wojciech. 212 Cordtllera Real (Bohvta). 16.5: Dhaulagtri, 224; Matanuska Valley (Chugach Mountains, Alaska), I20 Dolomtte Tower, I3 I-32; Htdden Peak. 246; Matijevec, Vanja, 37-40 KangchenJunga, 187; KangchenJunga South, Matsumoto. Masaki, 246 187-88; Nun. 239; Sost Sar, 259; Tamchok Kambab Matsushima, Seigo. 214 Kangrt. 284; Utah, 139. 140, 141; Wtckersham. 120 Matterhorn (Greenland), 100 Mountameermg, Winter: Aconcagua, 171-72; Maverick Buttress (Long Canvon. Utah). 139 Annapuma, 219-20; Annapuma Dakshin, 221; Mayra (Atacama, Puna de. Chtle). 169 Baring, 131; Cho Oyu. 21 I, Danah, 108, Dhaulagiri Mazamas. The, 343-44 224-25; Everest, 266, 272; Hiunchuli. 220-21; K2, Mazeaud. Pierre, 248 246; Kangchenjunga, 188; Langtang Lirung, 212; McArthur, Lewis L., 332 Makalu, 194; Marcus Baker, 119-20; NgoJumba McCormick. Gil, 148. 149 Kang. 21 l-12; Pame Towers. 176; San Jose, 170; McCoy. Dan. 118-19 Sdverthrone, 108. I I7 McCullough, Gerry, I04 Mountameermg Club of Alaska, 345 McGown. Robert. I34 Mountameers. Handtcapped, 242, 248 McKinley, Mount. See Denali. Mrtgthunt (Garhwal Htmalaya), 186 Medosch, Josh, I3 1 Mutr, John Robert, 228 Megrew. Alden Frick, ohir.. 327 Mukherjee, Kiron, 238 Mellizos (Cordillera Vilcabamba. Peru), nrr.. 41-48 Muller, Jhrg, 102 Memphis Mountaineers. Inc., 344-45 Murphy. Dallas, 298-99 Menlungtse (Tibet). 275-78 Mutton. Garv. 259.60 Mercedario (Argentina), 170 Mururata (Cordillera Real. Bolivia), 164 Mermoz (Patagonia). 49 Muskwa Range (Rockv Mountains, Canada), 149-51 Mesters Vig (Greenland). I04 Mustagh Ata

357 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL I988

Nanga Parbat (Himalaya, Pakistan), 262-64 Operation Everest II, scwn@c resulrs qf. 84. 86 Nanupniaqua (Greenland), 100 Oregon, 134 Narssarssuaq (Greenland), 9X,99, 100. 102 Organ (Arches National Park, Utah), 140 Nathorst Land (Greenland), 100 Organ (Zion National Park, Utah), 142 Nava, Piero, 154 Orgler, Andreas. 109, 113-15 Navajos, 142 Orlandi. Elio, nrr.. 53-55 Nave, Harald, 2 I5 Osius, Ahson, art., 60-68 Needle Mountain (Chugach Mountains, Alaska), I21 Ota, Kosuke. 226 Negro (Chile), 169 Otreba, Waclaw, 239 Nelson, Alan, 304-7 Outram, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Canada), 149 Nepal, err., 29-36; 186, 190-225 Owl Rock (Arches National Park, Utah). 140 Nepal: Peak 6620. 224; Peak 6932, 186; Peak 6933, Oyat-ztin, Gaston, 176 186; Peak 6998, 186; Peak 7010, I86 Neptune, Gary, 29-36 P NgoJumba Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 21 l-12 Ngojumba Kang II (Nepal Himalaya), 207-9 Padrecacca (Cordillera Yauyos, Peru), 164 Nianqintanggula (Tibet), 283 Page, Usha, 228 Niflheim, Mount (Columbia Mountains, British Pam. Dhtren, 238 Columbia). I48 Pame Central (Patagonia), 176 Nina Kkollu Chico (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), Paine None (Patagonta), 176 I68 Paine Sur (Patagonia), 176 Nina Kkollu Grande (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Pakistan, urts.. 15-20, 21-28; 180-83. 240-65 Bolivia), 168-69 Pal, Ntdhir Kumar. 229 Nisbet, Andy, 1 IS PalcaraJu (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), I60 Not&a, Retji, 25 I PalcaraJu Sur (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), I60 Nonketinde (Staunings Alps, Greenland). 102, 103 Palup Peak (Greenland), 100 North Butte of the Cross (Canyonlands National Park, Pamtagduluk Island (Greenland). 102 Utah), 141 Pamirs (China). 287-88 North Dome (Sierra Nevada, California). 136-37 Pamirs (USSR), 2X8-89 Northwest Territories, IS I Pamirs (USSR): Peak 56X4,288-89 Nugatsiaq Island. See Qeqertarssuaq Island. Pampash. See Kikash. Nugatsiaup Qaqa. See Snehaetten. Pande. C. S ,230 Nugssuak Pemnsula (Greenland), 105 “Paquotr, Atguille du” (Sierra Nevada. California), Nun (Kashmtr), 239 136 Nuptse (Nepal Himalaya). 206 Paragliders, art.. 91-92 NUN, Dawa. 29-36 Parapenres. See Paragliders. Nuru, Lhakpa, 29-36 Parilungbi (Himachal Pradesh), 237 Nutluartoq (Greenland), 103 Parker, Chauncey, l-14 Nyka, Jbzef, 160-61, 166, 171. 239,251, 280. 288-89 Paron, Tome de (Cordillera Blanca. Peru), 156, 160-61 Parra, Luis A., 172 0 Patagonia (Argentina), arrs., 49-51, 53-55, 56-57; 174-76. I78 Obispo (Ecuador), I56 Patagonia (Chile), 173-74. 176 Observation (Turkestan Range, USSR), 289 Patapatant (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 164, 166 O’Connor, Willlam, 199 Paul. Jtban Krtshna, 227 Ocshapalca (Cordillera Blanca. Peru), 158 Payne, Roger, 247 Odell, Noel Ewatt, &it., 320-22 Pe, Roberto, 51 Oelz, Oswald, art., X3-86 Peabody. Phil, IS-20 Off Balanced Rock (Arches National Park, Utah), I40 Peckham, Michael, I05 Ogden Mount (Coast Mountains, Alaska), 126 Peer, Craig, 136-37 “Ogre Stump” (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 17, Petsker. Chris. 64 19-20 Perkms. Andrew, I98 Ohkura, Yoshitomi, 274-75 Perlman, Enc S., 265 Okonek, Brian, 108. 117 Perlotto, France, 234 Okonek, Diane, 108. I I7 Perry, Mike. 279 Olde Stage Crag (Boulder Canyon. Colorado), 90 Per&, Mount (Cascade Mountains. Washington), I31 Oltver Perry-Smith Buttress (Colorado Nattonal Peru, or?.. 41-48; 156-64 Monument, Colorado), 144 Petermanns Bjeg (Greenland), 96. 106

358 INDEX

Petodnig, Walter, 161-63 R Petroske, John, I32 Petrov. Venelin, 199 Raboutou, Dtdter. 63 Petursson, Gudmundur. 2 I8 Radford, Geoffrey. I I8 Phystology. See Research, Sctenttfic: Phy\tology RadovtE, Igor, 256 Ptcket Range (Washmgton). 130.31 Rainier, Mount (Cascade Mountants, Washmgton). Pickle (Arches Nattonal Park, Utah), 140 133 Pielage, Joost, 206-7 Rakaposhi (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 256-58 Pigeon Sptre (Purcell Range. Brtttsh Columbta), 148 Ram, Chhering, 226 Pmnacle Rtdge (Sterra Nevada, Califomta). 136 Ramey. Ed, 29-36 Ptnnacles National Monument (Cahfomta), 134 Ramos Vtllar, Antonio, 268-69 Ptola, M , 105 Ranrapalca (Corddlera Blanca, Peru), 158 Pioneer Mountatns (Montana). 143 Rasac (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru). 161-63 (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 156, IS8 Rathong (Sikktm Htmalaya). I84 Pizza. Christopher, 29-36 Rawson, Ttmothy. 173.74 “Pluto Dome” (Sterra Nevada, Califomta). 135.36 Read, Sandy. 29-36 Poincenot (Patagonia), 175.76 Rectory (Utah), I38 Polack, Stu, 134 Redgarden Wall (Eldorado Sprmgs Canyon, Colorado), 87 Pollhammer. &mot, 98 Regard, Marianne, art , 83-86 Poole. Graham, 154.55 Rehmer, John A., 288.3 IO Porzak, Glenn E., art.. 29-36 Renland (Greenland), 98 Posada, Alberta. 24446 Research. Sctentific: Cerebral edema, 108; Denali, Potomac Appalachtan Tratl Club. 345-46 108; Physiology, arf., 83-86; Retmal haemorrhage, Potrera (Cordillera Real. Boltvia), I65 108 Potrero (Corddlera Real. Bohvta). 165 Revelation Mountatns (Alaska), I I9 Powers, Phthp C.. or, , 15-20. 141 Revolution Rock (Colorado). 144.45 Pramamk. Narayan Chandra. 229 Rice, Douglas. I61 Pregnall, Stuart, 301.3. 345-46 Richey, Mark, 174 Price, Robert, 137 Risse, Steven C., 133. 146 Primes. Cordon de 10s (Atacama. Puna de, Chde), 169 River Road Dihedrals (Utah), I38 Prms Chrtsttan IV Island (Greenland). IO0 Roberts, Alan. 135-36 Profit, Chrtstophe, 91 Rocky Mountam National Park (Colorado). 144 Provo Canyon (Utah). 142 Rocky Mountams (Canada), 149-51 Prustk Peak (Cascade Mountatns, Washmgton), 130 Rocky Mountains (Colorado). 128 Pucaranra (Cordtllera Blanca. Peru), 158.60 Rolland. Martme, 243 Rolofson, Mark, X9-90 Pucci, Sandra. 104 Romih. Mdan. 158 Pumasdlo (Cordillera Vilcabamba, Peru). wt , 41.48 Rooster Comb (Alaska Range). I I5 Pumon (Nepal Htmalaya), 199. 206-7 Rotovnik. Dolt?. art.. 93.96; I54 Pungpa RI (Tibet), 2X2-83 Rouillard, Jacques, 98. 99, 100. 103, I05 Purbt Dunagtri (Garhwal Htmalaya), 227 Rowell. Galen A , 283.84 Purcell Range (Brtttsh Columbta), 148 Rueter. Jose, I I8 Purto, Maurtcio. 2 10 Ruiz, Fernando, 171-72 PurtincaJas, M.. 155 Runse (Himachal Pradesh). 237 Putkonen, Etno, I05 Rupal Peak. Mtddle (Karakoram Range, Paktstan), 263 Pyramtd Peak (Cascade Mountains, Wathmgton). 132 Russell, Mount (Alaska Range), c~~cenr.r of. I I2 Pyramid Peak (Samt Elias Mountarns. Alaska), 123 Ruth Glacier Gorge (Alaska Range), 109. 113-15 Ryong, Yoon-Jae. 212

S Q S, Aguja de la (Patagonia). I75 Qeqertarssuaq Island (Greenland), 154 Saddle Tower Buttress (Canyonlands National Park, Qilertinguit Tunuliet (Greenland), 105 Utah). 141 Qioque Peninsula (Greenland), 102, 103 Saint Elias Mountains (Alaska), 122-24 Qiugorssuaq Fjord (Greenland). 98 Saint Elias Mountains (Alaska): Peak 9400. I22 Quinlan. Steve, 109. I IS Saint Elias Mountains (Yukon Territory): wt.. 76.79; (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 156. 158 145-46

359 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1988

Saint Elias Mountains (Yukon Territory): Peak Shigri Parbat (Himachal Pradesh), 238 10500+. 145-46 Shilla (Himacbal Pradesh). 237 Saint Exu@y (Patagonia), 175 Shinozaki, Jun’ichi, 238 Saipal (Nepal Himalaya), 225 Shtshapangma (Tibet), 279-83 Sajama (Cbrdillera Real, Bolivia), 166 Shtvhng (Garhwal Himalaya), 230-34 Sakahara, Tadakiyo, 264 Shrewsbury, John, 106 Sala, Joan, 230 Shri Katlash (Garhwal Himalaya), 227-28 Salasuneo (Neoal Himalava). I86 Shuksan, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Washington), Saleki. Mischa’, 272 . 131 San Felme (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), 168. Sidorowicz, Antoni. 163-64 I69 Sierra Nevada (Cahfomia), arf., l-14; 134-38 San Jose (Chile), 170 Sigayret, Henri, 192-93 San Lorenzo (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Bolivia), 168. Stkktm Htmalaya, 184-86, 187-90 169 Stkktm Htmalaya: Peak 6754, I86 San Lorenzo (Patagonia). 173-74 Stletto. John. I3 I San Pedro (Cordtllera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), 169 Stlver Star Mountain (Cascade Mountains. Washtngton), 130 San Sebastian. Juanio. 202-3 Silverto. Walter, I58 Sangmdik FJord (Greenland), 97, 99 Silverthrone, Mount (Alaska Range), 108, 117; ascenfs Santa Cruz (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 160 of, II2 Santa Maria (Argentina), 172-73 Simonson, Eric. 215-16.266-67 Sartniento (Tierra del Fuego), I78 Stmvu East (Stkkim Himalaya), I86 Sasaki. Yuichi, 23R Sisernnut (Greenland). 106 Saser Kannri (Karakoram Range, India), 240 Sita Chuchura (Nepal Himalaya), 222 Saser Kangri II (Karakoram Range, India), 240 Sixes Mountains (Oregon), 134 Saser Kangri 111 (Karakoram Range, Indta), 240 Ski mountaineering: Gasherbrum II, 247; Saw Kangri IV (Karakoram Range, India), 240 Kommunizma, 288: Lenin, 288; Shishapangma, Satan’s Slab (Skunk Canyon, Colorado), 89 279: Tukche. 222 Satopanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 228, 234 Skunk Canyon (Front Range, Colorado), 89 Saunders, Anthony Victor, arr.. 21-28 “Skyhomish Alps” (Cascade Mountains, Washington), Savenc, Franct, 160, 164 131-32 “S’brutal Tower” (Sterra Nevada, California), I36 Slesserl Malcolm, IO6 Schaffter, Stephane, 250-S I Smoot. Brtan. 142 Schell, Hans. 203. 204,280 Snehaetten (Greenland). 99. 154 Schlee. Alexander, 98 Snow Cone (Himachal Pradesh), 238 Schmauss, Alex, 136 Soan (Fansktye Gory Mountains, USSR). 289 Schmuck, Markus. 274 Sondergaard, Peter, art., 93-96 Schulz, Gtinter. 260 Sondre Igaliko (Greenland), 103 Schulze (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 164 Sondre Stromfiord (Greenland), 103, 104-5 Schum, Uhich. 99 Sonnefield. Mark, 89 Scoresbysund (Greenland), 93 Sost Sar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan). 259 Scott. Douglas K.. 270 South Amertca, 155-78 Scully, Vincent, 17880 Spantik (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), art.. 21-28 Searle. Mtchael. 230-31 Sphrnx. See Paron, Terre de. Sedgewick Glacier (Greenland). 98 Spttt (Indta), 235-37 Seibert, Robert R.. 108-13 Srtmany. Stimit. 238 Seifried, Georg. 164-66 Stanhardt (Patagonta), I78 Sentry (Revelation Mountains, Alaska), I I9 Starrett, Randall McKnight, III. 338 September Glacier (Greenland), 98 Staunmgs Alps (Greenland), 93,96-98, 99, 100, 102, Serl. Don, arf.. 76-79 103, 104. 105. 154;poraaliderdes~~nrs1n. 154 Sermiligaa Fiord (Greenland). 97. 103 Stedile. Fabio, I48 Seym. Hans Hennmg. 247 Steele, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon Shaatri Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 263 Territory). 145 Shahan Dok (Hindu Raj, Pakistan). 264 Stefan. Wolfgang, 228, 234 Sharpu (Sikkim Himalaya), I86 Steinmair. G.. 239 Shaw, Seth (ST), 69-75. 109 Stone Pillar (Castle Mountains, Montana), 142 Shelat, A. C., 235 Storebror (Greenland). 97 Shepherd, Lincoln, 64. 66 Storm King (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 133 Shepherd. Louise, 62-63.64, 67 Straight Creek Canyon (Utah), I41

360 INDEX

Strassman. Mike, 136 Tien Shan (China), 286 Stratta, Carlo, 215 Tien Shan (USSR), 288 Streich, Beat. 100 Tierra del Fuego. I78 Strindberg Land (Greenland). 106 Ttla Ka Lahr. See CB 49. Strobe. Craig. 246 Tilitso (Nepal Himalaya). 222 Stuart, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Washington), I28 Tilopdan. SCP Tupopdan. Stuart Range (Washington), 129.30 Titan (Utah), 139 Studentin. Boris, 288 Tlipobdan. See Tupopdan. Studer, Wilfried. 193 Tocllaraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 156, I58 Stump, Terry (Mugs), 109, I I5 Terre, Cerro (Patagonia). 49, 174, I78 Suarez Pomeda, Gonralo, 9X Torrini (Cordtllera Qutmsa Cruz. Bolivia), I68 Suikarsuak (Greenland), 97 Torrini Chico (Cordillera Quimsa Crw, Bolivta). I68 Sukkertoppen (Greenland), 97, 98. 99. 100. 102. 103. Tower. John, 266 105-6 Trango Towers (Karakoram Range. Paktstan), 248. Summit registers, 137-38 250-5 I Supercrack Buttress (Utah), 139 Traverses: Ampato. 163; Cascade Mountams Swain, Todd. 307-E (Washmgton). 133-34; Coast Mountams (Canada), Swargarohini II (Garhwal Himalaya), 235 146; Cordtllera Real (Bolivta), 164. 165: Ellesmere Swigert, Kevin. 214.15 Island. 151; Greenland, 99, 103, 104. 105; “Syko Rock” (Cascade Mountains, Washington), I31 Huacratanca. 163: Karakoram Range (Pakistan). Sylvester. Rick, art.. l-14 258; PalcaraJu, 160: Wrangell Mountams, I20 Szymatiski. Wojciech. 213.14 Trillmgeme (Greenland). 97 Tnmty Sptre (Purcell Range, Brtttsh Columbta), 148 T Trtpyramtd, Mount (Alaska Range), 109, 117; a,scenr.r Takahashi, Michiko, 266. 274.75 of. I I2 Talla. Sylva. 99 Trtsul (Garhwal Himalaya), arr , 37-40; 226; Tamada. Hitoshi. 264 paraglrder desrmt from, 40 Tambe. Sadao. 272, 278-79 Trtsul II (Garhwal Himalaya), 40 Tambillos (Argentina). 172 Trtsul III (Garhwal Htmalaya). 40 Tamchok Kambab Kangri (Tibet). 284 Troconis, Luts, 155, IS6 Taruj Umatia (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Bolivia). 168 Trotllet, Jean. 91 Tasermiut Fjord (Greenland), 97. 9X. 100. 10.5. I54 Trusnovec, &wko. I60 Tasissarssik Fjord (Greenland), 97 Tsao, Georges. 239 Tawoche (Nepal Himalaya). 199-200 Tschimtarga (Fansktye Gory Mountams. USSR), 289 Taylor Canyon (Canyonlands National Park. Utah). Tukche (Nepal Himalaya). 222 I41 Tukche West. See Stta Chuchura Terray. Laurent. 25 I Tukuche. See Tukche. “Terror Tower” (Revelation Mountains. Alaska), 119 Tupopdan (Karakoram Range, Pakr\tan), 260-62 Texas Canyon (Utah). 139 Tupungato (Argentina), 172 Texas Tower (Texas Canyon. Utah), 139 Turkestan Range (USSR), 289 Thackray. John, 234 Tweedy Mountam (Ptoneer Mountam\. Montana). 143 Thalay Sagar (Garhwal Himalaya). 234. 235 Thaple Shikar (Sikkim Himalaya), I86 Tharkot (Garhwal Himalaya), 225 Thiele, Christian. I69 U Thojo Loma (Cordillera Real, Bolivia). I66 Thomas. Bernard. 106 Udall. Mark. 21 I Thomdike Peaks (Ellesmere Island). I.51 Uemura. Naomi, 99 Thunder Mountain (Coast Mountains. British Ulamertorsruaq (Greenland). 97, 98 Columbia), 147 Umanak FJord (Greenland), 93. 102. 103, 104, I05 Thurbull. Les, 106 Umanakfjeld (Greenland), I04 Tibet, 180-83, 266.84 Umanaktmde (Greenland), 102, IO.5 Tibet: Peak 562.5. 283: Peak 57.50. 2X3: Peak 5800, Upermvtk Island (Greenland), 97, 100, 102, I05 283; Peak 58%. 283; Peak 5900. 2X3: Peak 7300, Upton. Mount (Samt Elias Mountains. Yukon 280 Territory). 145 Tic. Danilo. 170.71, 172. 233.34 USSR, 288-89 Ticlla. See Cotuni. Utah. 138-42: climhnt~ regdations in. 140, 141

361 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1988

V Wbitton, Louis A.. 272 Wickersham. Mount (Chugach Mountants, Alaska). Vaid, A. K., 228 120 Valdez (Alaska), 120-21 Wielicki. Krzvsztof. 201-2 Valhaltinde (Greenland), 102 Wila Llojeta (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 165 Valley of the Gods (Utah), 139 Wila Wilani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 164-65 Vallunaraju Norte (Cordillera Blanca. Peru), 158 Wildspitze (Greenland). 100 Vallunaraju Sur (Cordillera Blanca, Peru). 156 Wind River Range (Wyommg), 143 van Gelder, James, 187 Wind Tower (Eldorado Sprmgs Canyon, Colorado), 87 Van Meter, Steve. 269 Winstone. Mount (Coast Mountains, Brttish van Nieuwkerk. Edewin. 193 Columbia). 147 van Sprang, Gerard C., 191 Witches Tower (Cascade Mountains, Washington), ‘Vanishing Pmnacle” (Revelation Mountains, Alaska), 130 119 Wolf, Francois. 154 Veiga Gonzalez, Constancio. 97 Wolf, Hermann, 166-69 Venables, Stephen, 258, 282-83 Wood. Mount (Saint Elias Mountains. Yukon Venkatesh, T.., 228 Terntory), 145 Vest Fjord (Greenland). 98 Woolley, Stan, 153 Vidette. East (Sierra Nevada. California), 137 Womer, Stefan, 280 Vidmar. Lade, 37-40 Wrangell, Mount (Wrangell Mountains, Alaska). I20 Vidoni, Tullio, 262-63 Wrangell Mountains (Alaska), 120, 121-22 Vigouroux Vidal, Ivan, 169-70 Wrangell Mountams: Peak 8880, 122, Peak 9008, 122; Voll, Herbert, 97 Peak 9105, 122; Peak 91 IO, 122; Peak 9124, 122; Peak 10565, 121 W Wumkes, Mark, I I8 Wyoming, 143 Wada, Seichi, 256 Waddington, Mount (Coast Mountains, British Y Columbia). 146 Wade, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska). 123 Yackulic, Charles F. (Fred), 130 Wahlund, Ebbe. 266 Yadev, M. P.. 238 Waillani (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), 168 Yalung Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), 188-90 Waitman, Randy, 109, 117 Yamagata, Masami, 221 Wallaby Peak (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 129 Yamamoto, Munehiko, 256 Walter, Thomas, 1 19 Yamamoto, Ryozo, 286 Walter, Tom. 15-20 Yamanaka. Yoshiki. 229 Warburton. Michael, 126-28 Yazghil Sar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 260 Washington. 128-34 Yerupaia (Cordillera Huayhuash. Peru). 161-63 Washington Column (Yosemite California), 128 Yokdmizo. Takehiko, 243-44 Waterfall Wall (Yosemite, California), a~*., I- 14 Yosemite (Sierra Nevada, California), art., l-14; 128, Watkins. Mount (Yosemite. California), I28 135-36 Watkins Mountains (Greenland), 153 Yukon Terntory. art.. 76-79; 145-46 Watters. Robert, 209-10 Yulong Shan (Yunnan Province, Chma), 265 Wegener Peninsula (Greenland), 102-3 Weygand, Geoff, 63.66 Weigner. Vladimir, 128 Welsh, David A., 106 Zagdoun, Andre:. 97 West, John B., 312-14 Zanetti, Mount (Wrangell Mountains. Alaska), 120 Westmacott, Michael, 186 Zappelli, Cosimo, 109, I18 Wheeler, Simon, 229 Zawada, Andrzej, 246 White, Greg, 131 Ztel. Frederick, 198 White Needle (Kashmir). 239 Zimmermann, Ralf, 149-5 I Whitehouse, Annie, 199 Zion Nattonal Park (Utah), 142 Whitney, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California). 136 Zmurko. Waldemar, 166

362