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Istanbul ® ISSN: 1309-3851 ISSN JANUARY 2014 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO® istanbul ® ISSN: 1309-3851 ISSN: PROPAGANDA: OUTSTANDING FOOD, GREAT MUSIC CHIC RESTAURANTS WORLD-CLASS ART EXHIBITIONS TEMPTING SHOPPING SALES +... AND MUCH MORE Istanbul January 2013 12 SHOPPING Boutique & Speciality Shops Listings Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores 28 DINING Dining Listings Listings by neighbourhood and cuisine 44 ENTERTAINMENT Entertainment & Nightlife Listings The latest information on İstanbul’s concerts and clubs 50 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS Museums & Attractions Listings Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events 54 GALLERIES Gallery Listings National and commercial art galleries 58 ESSENTIALS Transport and useful information Tips for getting around town 62-63 MAPS Central İstanbul maps ALSO INSIDE 02 From the Editor 04 Calendar where now 10 Dining Interview with Gökay Çakıroğlu, executive chef at Sumahan Hotel. ON THE COVER 44 Entertainment Propaganda: Tastes nice and sounds good (p. 6). Unusual jazz songs by Yasmin Levy at İstanbul Congress Center. JANUARY 2014 I WHERE İSTANBUL 3 Your traveling companion since 1936® Welcome A Note From The Editor ® wheremagazine A brand new year… Ferah Feza p.30 Luisa Sobral p.45 WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL It’s the first month of 2014, and İstanbul has no end of things to do. Before EDITORIAL heading out to discover the city, take a look at the choices of restaurants and EDITOR Dilek Koç nightlife. You’ll find a different world in every neighbourhood here, with newly- MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı opened restaurants including Yeni Lokanta, Teppanyaki Alaturka (p. 38) and CONTRIBUTING editor Emma Levine Limonata’s Etiler branch. There are also brand new nightlife venues in the city: ENGLISH edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer DESIGNERS Tijen Tezel, Yasemin Şahin Pop in NuPera (p. 49), Members in Kuruçeşme (p. 48), and stage shows at Cahide contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal Cümbüş (p. 49) are some of this winter’s newest hot spots. DEPUTY edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı The neighourhood of Karaköy continues its speedy transformation, with oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr something new popping up at every turn. Make sure to sample Ferahfeza’s Photo edıtor Sami Atalan (p. 30) delicious Mediterranean cuisine and magnificent view over Sultanahmet. consultant Aynur Koç The concert and exhibition schedule is full again! Check out our event pages for RESPONSIBLE edıtor Aslı Koç times and locations to make the most of this exciting month. Representation, ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SALES DIRECTOR Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya Identity and Memory at an Ottoman Family, on display at Salt Galata (p. 57), [email protected] presents a fascinating selection of photographs portraying slices of everyday life Salt Galata p.57 Naval Museum busıness develoPment & marKetıng from the Ottoman to Republican periods. Other attractions include Portuguese p.51 MARKeting DIREctor Mahmut Bölükbaş singer Luisa Sobral’s (p. 45) romantic performance at İş Sanat, and the Vivaldi [email protected] Orchestra playing music ranging from Baroque to contemporary pieces. Evren Satır [email protected] Post-New Year’s sales make shopping in İstanbul even more fun this month, Productıon with unmissable bargains at shopping centres: visit İstinyePark (p. 14), Zorlu Productıon manager Aybüke Kevser assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak Center (p. 16) and Kanyon (p. 15) for tempting deals. controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen After a tour of the city’s history on the Historic Peninsula, visit the newly- renovated Naval Museum (p. 51), Istanbul’s largest seafaring museum, especially the Sultan’s boats and the world’s oldest longship. WHERE (C), CEE & TURKEY DIVISION Have a wonderful month and a great year ahead! United Guides Hungary MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky Kuleli Cad. 45/1, Çengelköy, Tel: 0216 422 57 62 REGIONAL manager Bianca Otero www.del-mare.com DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul Managing Director EuroPE MORRIS Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted BY TURKuvaz matbaacılıK YAYINCILIK A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.49 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey 2 WHERE İSTANBUL I January 2014 January 2014 I WHERE İSTANBUL 3 THIS MONTH IN İSTANBUL Calendar January 2014 PERA MUSEUM View famous Turkish paintings including the best known of all, WEDNESDAY FRIDAY 1 Osman Hamdi Bey’s charming work The Tortoise Trainer (p. 56). BASILICA SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM Visit Istanbul’s first major exhibition of Anish Kapoor’s large- CISTERN THURSDAY➝ 3 (YEREBATAN 2 scale sculptures, then enjoy the Bosphorus view among 150 year-old trees (p. 57). SARNICI ) BEN PEARCE&HOMEWORK Hear this Manchester vocalist and his group, which Experience this SATURDAY exploded onto the House music scene with their single What I Might Do at İndigo (p. 45). amazing Byzantine 4 with its ancient BAYLAN Take a walk along the Bebek seafront, then enjoy the Bosphorus view and a SUNDAY columns and Medusa 5 Küp Griye sundae at this famous İstanbul café. T: 0212 358 0760. head, location for the KILIÇ ALİ PAŞA MOSQUE Visit this magnificent example of Ottoman architecture filmsInferno and From MONDAY Russia With Love (p. 50). 6 built by architect Sinan, which includes Ali Paşa’s tomb and a Turkish bath. D5. CAROLINE HENDERSON Enjoy a concert by the Swiss-born jazz vocalist, actress and TUESDAY 7 eight-time winner of the Danish music award at Akbank Sanat (p. 45). ASSOULINE Explore this fine shop offering sophisticated books ranging from style to WEDNESDAY 8 architecture, art and travel, plus objets d’art and home furnishings (p. 22). KALPAZANKAYA Enjoy the perfect combination of fish and rakı on Burgaz Island, and SATURDAY THURSDAY 9 gaze at the setting sun in this comfortable, informal restaurant. YASMIN LEVY Hear this ➝ AŞİYAN MUSEUM Stroll through the beautiful Bosphorus-front gardens of this 11 famous FRIDAY 10 museum, former home of prominent Turkish poet Tevfik Fikret (p. 51). Ladino singer in an NOSTALGIC TRAM Board this tiny historic tram on İstiklal Caddesi and trundle past unusual programme SUNDAY of her Flamenco 12 the parade of people, historic buildings, churches, mosques and galleries. and Turkish tunes, NAKKAŞ Be tempted by Turkish hand-made ceramics, the Anatolian Civilizations on stage tonight at MONDAY jewellery collection and the Samsun carpet and kilim collection at this store (p. 18). İstanbul Congress 13 Center (p. 45). NİŞANTAŞI BRASSERIE Savour a glass of hot wine at this homely Nişantaşı spot and TUESDAY 14 watch the colourful winter life on its streets outside (p. 39). KÜÇÜK SU KASRI Visit this majestic waterfront spot, then head to a local café to WEDNESDAY 15 enjoy the view of two castles flanking this narrowest point on the Bosphorus. PROPAGANDA Check out the colourful wall covering at this bar in Suriye Passage, ➝ FRIDAY 17 enjoy flavours from around the world and dance to music spun by popular DJs (p. 32). VİVALDİ ORCHESTRA Hear contemporary music at this concert by the Russian State SATURDAY 18 Academy Orchestra, at TİM Show Center (p. 45). PIERRE LOTI Take the cable car from Eyüp Sultan to the historic Pierre Loti cafe and SUNDAY 19 enjoy a hot drink as you take in the view of the Golden Horn. T: 0212 497 1313. KHAFTAN ART & ANTIQUE Lose yourself among the antiques, ceramics, paintings, MONDAY 20 books and miniatures plus fine modern Turkish art at this fascinating shop (p. 16). THURSDAY KONYALI In Kanyon AVM, setle down for lunch at this restaurant serving fine Turkish TUESDAY NAR LOKANTA delicacies. Be sure to try the incik kebabı and the Ottoman-style fruit drinks (p. 37). 21 Feast on a delicious lunch at this 16restaurant serving traditional Turkish CEMİLZADE 1883 Sample rose and pistachio lokum, and the Turkish coffee akide at WEDNESDAY 22 this famous İstanbul purveyor of fine lokum, candy and traditional almond pastes (p. 27). and Ottoman cuisine, and check out the natural products at Nar Gourmet (p. 36). JEHAN BARBUR Enjoy a magical concert of jazz and more by Barbur, considered the THURSDAY 23 female minstrel of modern Turkish music, at the hip nightspot Babylon (p. 45). SUNDAY LUISA SOBRAL Be charmed at a romantic concert of songs including The Cherry on HARVEY FRIDAY 24 my Cake by this talented Portuguese jazz singer songwriter at İş Sanat (p. 45). NICHOLS 26Take BORUSAN CONTEMPORARY Immerise yourself in Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s new SATURDAY advantage of İstanbul’s 25 installation Vicious Circular Breathing at the Perili Köşk gallery (p. 54). seasonal sales and check out the bold designs of AKARETLER Take a stroll up this refurbished little street, once part of Dolmabahçe ➝ MONDAY this store’s 2013 Winter Palace and now dotted with contemporary art galleries and boutiques (p.
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