inside

Good eats Polish this summer Cinema

June 2012

Edition 92 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com STAMP OUT RACISM! Anthony Casey by a minority of hooligans. Nevertheless, rivalry and violence is Behind the lines Racism in Krakow should be combated by a ever-present among the hooligan elements ‘hearts and minds’ educational programme, of Krakow’s two big clubs – Wisła and to complement the city’s ongoing clean- Cracovia – and graffiti around the city up campaign, according to an influential describes the teams as either ‘White Star’ association promoting multiculturalism. or ‘Dogs’ (Wisła), and ‘Pasy’ or ‘Jews’ Interkulturalny.pl carried out an (Cracovia). extensive survey amongst foreigners Interkulturalny’s Adam Bulandry said living in Krakow, earlier this year. It also that the association had seen a marked submitted a strategy document to the city increase in racist graffiti in Krakow since council, suggesting ways in which graffiti – 2007. He told the newspaper Gazeta …the anti-hooligan squad especially racist, anti-semitic or otherwise Wyborcza that the city suffered from offensive slogans - could be tackled. ‘institutional racism’, accepted passively “ The association also has a ‘street of by the public. Stay safe and legal shame’ gallery on its website, to which Filip Szatanik, deputy director of the members of the public can submit city’s Department of Information, said photographs of buildings that have been racist graffiti and other incidents should daubed with racist tags. be reported to the police. On the clean-up The issue hit the headlines once again in operation, he added: “We will immediately May when the BBC aired a documentary intervene.” ahead of the forthcoming European Krakow spends around 150,000zł each Championships. year on removing graffiti, but admits that Called Euro 2012: Stadiums of Hate. resources are limited. Police are working …don’t get red carded The documentary gave the impression that with Interkulturalny, to build a profile football in Poland and the tournament co- of the graffiti problem in the city and to “ host Ukraine were riddled with racism and identify persistent offenders. Wisła and Krakow United Neo-Nazism. Cracovia – whose ‘pseudo-fans’ are the Authorities in Poland, including those in source of some of the more directly racist Krakow, reacted angrily to the broadcast, and less literate tags around the city - have saying that the programme presented a also vowed to work on stamping out racism ‘biased’ view based on problems caused in their stadiums.

KRAKOW OCCUPIED – BRIEFLY “ …a local, multinational team A global protest movement reached Poland’s key players Krakow in May – but lasted just a few days before police broke up their camp in a dawn raid. Occupy, protesting against the stranglehold that they say benefits large companies and financial institutions over ordinary people, set up camp in the Rynek Główny on May 22. But, on May 26 at 6am, police moved in to break up the protest, deemed by city …a defining moment authorities to be illegal. At least 15 people are required in order for a protest to be “ legitimate, but officials said that only five took part in the Occupy Krakow event. Protest organisers argued that there were 19 people, but that authorities had deliberately ‘overlooked’ those in the tents. Some of the protestors went willingly when police moved in, but others had to “Krakow is not a company, it’s our city” (Photo: David McGirr) be removed by force. According to the newspaper Gazeta Krakowska, up to 30 the beginning. Tents and equipment were Occupy organisers in Krakow are now in people were demonstrating during the seized, and organisers now face a fine of talks with the managers of the Bunkier police raid, but it is not clear how many around 1,000zł. Sztuki gallery, and hope to re-establish of these had been part of the camp since However, the protest may not yet be dead. their camp at the gallery’s car park. 2 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com Behind the lines with Poland’s anti-hooligan police David McGirr and Jamie Stokes

Polish police are well prepared for Polish footballing calendar – the Wisła- troublemakers at this summer’s Euro 2012 Cracovia Derby. tournament. They have the equipment, A sophisticated intelligence-gathering the training and, most importantly, the and surveillance unit works closely with experience. front-line riot squads to spot trouble Hooligan violence is nothing new before it happens, and to come down hard in Poland. The keen rivalry between on lawbreakers. supporters of Krakow’s two biggest When Euro 2012 begins, Polish anti- teams, Wisła and Cracovia, for example, hooligan units will be joined by intelligence has brought violence to the streets many experts from participating nations. times. The message is clear: Enjoy the matches The Krakow Post went behind the and have a good time, but if the line is scenes with the police as they prepared crossed, the boys in black are going to for a potentially explosive event in the wrap it up in short order.

13:30 A convoy of riot vans rolls up the street 5 hours to kick-off leading to the square. Accompanying them is It’s an unseasonably hot day in April as the menacing shape of a police water canon, members of Krakow’s Anti-Hooligan Crime affectionately know as the ‘Typhoon.’ The Unit assemble at police headquarters for the armoured, 16-tonne vehicle is a clear sign start of a working day that will stretch long that the police will not be tolerating trouble. into the night. The Unit go to work identifying ringleaders. There are 11 members of this undercover They note that many fans are carrying black unit on duty today – a small but vital fraction jackets, despite the sweltering heat. of the 604 officers policing the match. A small group of fans on the café terrace Their duties include monitoring the array of the Sukiennice attempt to unfurl a large of CCTV cameras in the stadium control banner, but it is quickly pulled down. room and carrying out covert surveillance of A mobile CCTV unit sits in a corner of the fans using hand held video cameras. They use square, its occupants monitoring the growing these to identify agitators and ringleaders. crowd using roof-mounted cameras and feeds Intelligence suggests that Cracovia fans from other equipment around the square. will gather in the Market Square and then march to the match in protest at a government The hulking ‘Typhoon’ water canon on Krakow’s picturesque streets (Photo: David McGirr) crackdown on football fans. 15:35 There are also reports that fans will bring Cracovia fans begin their protest march, balaclavas, black jackets and dark glasses in accompanied police in full riot gear carrying an effort to frustrate efforts to identify them. shotguns and a convoy of police vehicles. Any fan covering their face today will be The surveillance car tags on to the end committing an offence under Polish law. of the convoy. Red flares belch thick white Wisła’s stadium has a capacity of 33,000, smoke, and the explosions of fireworks but only 1,000 tickets have been allocated for tossed by the marchers are deafening in the Cracovia fans. narrow streets. Teams are required to provide police with Police dog handlers are present to keep the a list of all ticket holders at least 24 hours fans in line and some officers are carrying the before an away match, but the list arrives twin-tank backpacks of high volume tear gas late. Officers work fast to compare the names dispersal systems. to those with stadium bans, and find three matches – their details are circulated. 15:55 The marching Cracovia fans arrive at 14:00 Błonia and assemble outside their own The undercover team, dressed casually stadium. A line of police with riot shields Riot police armed with shotguns ‘escort’ Cracovia supporters (Photo: David McGirr) in shorts and loose fitting shirts, are issued stand across the road from the fans, waiting handcuffs and handguns. Video and still for their next move. cameras are also distributed. Their unmarked The hulking Typhoon is parked in plain vehicles are in the car park. sight. Now it is accompanied by a police Also parked outside are half a dozen pick up truck equipped with a more high- police riot vans. An officer of the riot squad tech form of crowd control – a Long Range (Oddziały Prewencji Policji) cradling a pump Acoustic Device (LRAD), popularly known action shotgun sits in the open door of one. as a ‘sonic cannon.’ His ammunition pouch is stuffed with LRADs are commonly used as highly rubber bullet rounds. Aimed at the legs, these directional loud hailers for issuing police are capable of bringing a rioter down at a commands during noisy street demonstrations, range of 30 metres. but they can also emit a high frequency ‘deterrent tone’ that can cause severe pain to anyone within range. 14:30 The Anti-Hooligan Unit deploys across the city to monitor fan activity. One car heads to 16:05 the Market Square and confirms that dozens Cracovia fans make their move, marching en masse onto Błonia as the police rush to cut of fans wearing the red and white stripes of Keeping a watchful eye, stadium security zooms in on potential trouble (Photo: David McGirr) Cracovia are beginning to congregate there. them off. The fans unfurl the same banner www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | June 2012 3

but it also hides those underneath from the eyes of the police. Red flares are lit at the rear of the stand, illuminating its entire length.

18:30 Kick-off As the game begins, it is obvious that 90 per cent of the Cracovia fans have no interest in what is happening on the pitch. One Cracovia fan with a loudhailer leads the team chants as fireworks and abuse are hurled at the enemy a few metres away.

The ‘sonic canon’ (Photo: David McGirr) 19:00 Wisła score the only goal of the match. they failed to display on the Sukiennice and there is a brief stand off as police and fans face each other a few metres apart. 19:05 Police intervene. Top left: Supporters put on hoods and masks under cover of a banner. Top right: Abruptly, the riot police turn their backs on A group of Cracovia supporters unfurl Masked fans charge security gates, and are repelled with CS spray. Bottom left: Riot police are on the fans – who take this as a signal to follow their long banner again, but this time lines the scene within minutes. Bottom right: Police tackle a defiant supporter. (Photos: David McGirr) – and the parade makes its way toward Wisła of fans stand around it shoulder to shoulder, stadium on the other side of the park. A police hiding those underneath from view. “This is Marius Potaczek, deputy commander of With this local matter safely resolved, helicopter circles overhead and the CCTV it,” comments an Anti-Hooligan Unit officer the Anti-Hooligan Unit, told the Krakow Post Marius and his team get back to the job of van watches every move. – and he’s right. the next day that 23 arrests had been made ensuring that Euro 2012 matches will be Fans now dressed in hooded jackets and and 106 fines imposed as part of an operation policed just as effectively. wearing balaclavas and dark glasses emerge that continued until 4am. 16:10 from under the banner and launch an assault A lone figure with a Wisła scarf wrapped on the security barrier. around his face appears out of nowhere and For a hardcore of fans, this is what it’s all makes for the Cracovia fans. He only gets about – closing with their rivals for a bare- a few steps before three burly officers jump knuckle fight. On the streets, these tribal from a car parked unobtrusively nearby and clashes involve knives, machetes and bats. close in. The man quickly removes his hood A contingent of fans races to the security and scarf as the plainclothes men ‘have a gate and tries to tear it down. They are chat.’ repeatedly repelled with CS spray. Other fans begin ripping up seats and hurling them at the Wisła section. 16:15 Wisła fans also rush to the rear of their Security inside the stadium is provided by section and try to break down the gate to the a private firm hired by the club. Also dressed buffer zone. Security staff fend them off. in full riot gear, only the ‘Ochrona’ (security) Within four minutes of the violence starting, logos across their backs and the lack of scores of white helmeted riot police stream firearms distinguish them from the police. into the stadium from behind each goal. Barging onto the stands, they push both Wisła and Cracovia fans back from the barriers. 17:20 One Cracovia fan refuses to move, and is After being penned outside for an hour, doused with orange-tinted CS spray before visiting fans are allowed to trickle into the being shoved to the ground. stadium. The police intervention is swift, controlled GREAT IDEA FOR YOUR AFTERNOON The 1,000 Cracovia supporters are confined and highly professional. With the riot squad to one section in the corner of the stands – the literally breathing down their necks, fans on VISITING THE SCHINDLER’S MUSEUM? adjoining section is kept vacant as a buffer both sides quickly become more interested in RELAX WITH OUR 60 EUR PACKAGE AFTERWARDS:* between them and the home fans, who are the match than in taunting their rivals. also filling to their seats. High, metal and 1 HR MASSAGE IN OUR WELLNESS perspex barriers line each section. 3-DISH DINNER WITH WINE 20:15 FUN IN OUR POOL, JACUZZI AND SAUNAS Just before full time, police snatch squads 17:30 acting on surveillance conducted during the *package excludes tickets to the Schindler’s Museum 1 hour to kick-off match, move into the Cracovia section and In the CCTV control room, security staff make arrests. monitor a bank of 20 screens, with police Hotel Galaxy & Restaurant Andromeda from the Anti-Hooligan Unit looking over 20:20 Gęsia 22a, 31-535 Kraków (Kazimierz & Podgórze District) their shoulders. Other officers are using [email protected], T: +48 12 342 81 00 binoculars to scan the crowd. At full time, neither group of fans is keen to leave the stadium. www.galaxyhotel.pl Police eventually allow Wisła fans to www.jordan.pl 18:10 leave, but Cracovia supporters are kept in the 50° 3' 11" N 19° 57' 32" E Both sets of fans begin throwing fireworks stadium for up to an hour to ensure that there across no-man’s land. Individuals dive for is no trouble outside the ground. cover and reel with hands over their ears at the thunderclap explosions. Small fires are rapidly stamped out. 21:20 Jamie Stokes, Managing Editor [email protected] Violence is not expected around the Krakow Post is a monthly For advertising inquiries, ground or in the city centre. Experience has publication published by please contact: 18:20 shown that fans tend to take the fight back to Lifeboat Ltd. Wisła fans unfurl an enormous banner, Krakow’s housing estates. ISSN: 1898-4762 Group Sales Manager passing it over their heads until it covers the The Anti-Hooligan Unit take to their www.krakowpost.com [email protected] +48 (12) 429 16 99 entire stand. vehicles and head out to the city’s suburbs, Marta Firlet-Bradshaw, Publisher It’s an impressive symbol of team support, their work far from over. [email protected] Printers, www.polskapresse.pl 4 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com

Art house cinema saved, mostly Pied Piper required?

A historic and much-loved Krakow art let to a new tenant. The new deal, which The spell of hot weather that heralded the said: “There might be incidents of littered house cinema doomed to closure has been means ARS has lost around 240 of its seats arrival of spring in Krakow brought tourists bus stops when passengers fill the bins saved at the last moment - and won a major and can now accommodate just 300, is and locals out into the sunshine… as well and our service men will not come in time prize to boot. valid for five years. as some more unwelcome guests. to clean, but these are scarce. Bins are Kino ARS, on ul. Św. Jana, was the centre As if to add sugar to the rainbow, the As the city enjoyed temperatures closing emptied every two days, and the centre of an international media campaign, when month of May also saw ARS pick up a on 30 degrees and the number of people is cleaned every day, including public the owners of the building upped the price of prize from the Polish Film Institute, for its swelled, litterbins over-flowed. Around transport stops. the lease for the prime city centre property. services to cinema in Poland. the bins, and in some private courtyards, “As far as rats are concerned, they are The new asking price – representing a 100 In a public statement published on the the occasional scream of ‘Szczur!’ was present in every city, but it is not true that per cent increase, was beyond the means of cinema website, ARS director Andrzej heard (‘Szczur’ is Polish for rat). they are more intensively visible in this the cinema management, and it looked as Kucharczyk thanked all those who had The rodents made the most of the feast city. Rat poison is not put in green areas, though it would close its doors on 17 years supported the cinema during what looked left behind for them, and could be seen mainly the Planty, as rats are not observed of history, on April 30. to be its final days. boldly snacking at the remains that had there. Rats live mainly in courtyards and However, following a thousands-strong On collecting the award in Gdynia, Mr fallen from some of the bins. basements. They do come out sometimes, Facebook campaign and reports in the Kucharczyk said: “A few days ago it was However, the city’s department for but extermination should be done in their international media – including the UK’s unclear whether ARS would survive. It has Infrastructure and Public Transport habitat… extermination is carried out Guardian newspaper – a new deal was been running for seven years, so I am very (ZIKIT), assured the Krakow Post that regularly in the fast tram tunnel and all struck which allowed the cinema to stay pleased that we have managed to save it. there was no serious problem and said the underground passages.” open. It didn’t emerge unscathed, though, We failed to save the ‘Ars’ hall, but the city was not dirty. Mr Pyclik added that the city spends 20 having lost its main room, which will be others survive. We live.” Michał Pyclik, spokesman for ZIKIT, million złoty each year on cleaning. Guru to Polish satirists dies Krakow’s da Vinci on show again One of Poland’s best-known satirists, Mleczko paid tribute to Czeczot, whom he Poland’s most valuable work of art, for the foreseeable future. Andrzej Czeczot, has died, aged 79. met at Szpilki. Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady With an Ermine, The painting was created in the late 15th Czeczot was born in Krakow, where he Mleczko said: “He was our guru. He is finally on public display again. century, while da Vinci was working for the studied at the Academy of Fine Arts. But had a very original approach and fresh The painting has found a temporary Duke of Milan. The woman in the picture his first cartoons were published in the ideas, which at the time diverged from the home at Wawel Royal Castle, after is said to be Cecilia Gallerani, the Duke’s weekly magazine Szpilki, a year before his standards of satirical cartoons. We looked going on a tour of European capitals mistress. Art experts have ensured it is graduation in 1957. The artist’s stabs at the up to him and tried to emulate him.” and undergoing intensive analysis by art displayed in optimal conditions to ensure Communist regime in Poland frequently During his career, Czeczot worked on experts. The ‘Lady,’ as it is known locally, its preservation, in a small room at Wawel got him into trouble, and he was arrested around 200 books and made approximately is owned by the Czartoryski family, one with a constant fixed temperature of 18 on several occasions. He left Poland for the 30 short animated films. His work was of Poland’s few remaining ‘aristocratic’ degrees, and strict controls on lighting and United States in 1982, and subsequently exhibited internationally, and he won bloodlines. However, the Czartoryski humidity. made his name on the international stage, awards in Poland and abroad including, in Museum in Krakow – which once housed Up to 20 people can view the picture at with his work appearing in The New 2008, Poland’s Gloria Artis gold medal. the painting – is undergoing extensive and a time. Tickets cost 10zł (8zł concessions). Yorker, Polityka, The New York Times, and Andrzej Czeczot was born on October time-consuming restoration work. It is not It is advisable to book in advance, as the other publications around Europe. 27, 1933. He died at his home in Warsaw, known how long it will take to complete popularity of the painting means that The contemporary cartoonist Andrzej on May 9. the work, and the Lady will stay at Wawel queues are likely. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | June 2012 5 Krakow United

Krakow United in action (orange strip) at the Hutnik ground (Photo: David McGirr)

Anthony Casey

The arrival of the England, Italy and share the costs of officials’ salaries and Netherlands teams in Krakow for the other expenses between themselves. European Championships is set to cause Krakow United’s ‘home ground’ is the quite a stir – but it’s by no means anything pitches in the shadow of Wawel Castle. new for the city. However, they decamp to another ground Representatives from all these nations in the city when this is not available – and and more have been playing regular it’s the same ground on which England matches in Krakow for around ten years, will be training, the Hutnik stadium in but they’ve all been playing on the same Nowa Huta. side – Krakow United, a club that draws The stadium has come in for a lot of on the talents of expats and Poles alike for negative press from the UK tabloids, Sunday league matches. which have branded it as a shambles, ill- The club’s Andrew Keogh spoke to the equipped to handle the English squad’s Krakow Post about their ethos. He said requirements. But, most irritating for that the emphasis was very much on the Andrew and those at Krakow United, was word ‘United’, and that players, as well the statement that Hutnik’s ground was as bridging international borders, also ‘not fit for a Sunday league team’. represented a wide range of ages and “I take offence at the Sun newspaper’s occupations. Krakow United has had description of the Hutnik stadium,” he 50-year-olds turning out alongside 20- said. “It is one of the best grounds in the somethings, and teachers lining up next league.” to former professional players, politicians The Krakow Post visited the stadium and businessmen. with Krakow United, during a league Andrew said: “Of course, the games do game in May, and Andrew’s description get passionate sometimes, but we all love of the facilities – clean, modern, recently playing and it’s not meant to be personal. installed, with high-quality playing When we are not playing, we sometimes surfaces – stood up to inspection. organise events among ourselves.” Whatever the fate of the three teams that And that’s not just events between will live and train in Krakow during their club members. Andrew added that, when tournament, it’s a sure thing that Krakow Krakow United visit Polish village teams United will still be here next season, their for league matches, they are always players keeping fit, meeting new folk warmly welcomed. It’s not unusual to or simply running off a hangover with a find a barbecue, a few beers and lots of Sunday morning kick-around. They’re friendly banter awaiting at the host team’s open to new members – of any nationality club house after a hard-fought 90 minutes – and would be especially keen to hear Let us invite you on the pitch. from individuals and companies that The Sunday league schedule is organised might want to sponsor them. If you’d like The casual fun style sports bar offers 9 plasma screens featuring the most exciting sport events. The unique atmosphere and delicious by members of each club – of which to join, give them your money, or simply tex-mex cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and professional staff make there are about ten – who set up games, go along to a match and cheer them on, SomePlace Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy time with your family, organise referees and so on. The players email [email protected]. friends, business partners and sport fun.

Let us invite you for a Journey through world stadiums, courses and halls because life is better when shared.

SHERATON.COM/KRAKOW

SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL ul. Powiśle 7 31-101 Kraków

t — +48 12 662 1670 6 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com 10 Tips for Staying Safe and Legal in Poland this Summer

Jamie Stokes

1. Stamp your bus/tram ticket Crossings without lights must be treated 6. Taxis going to be tempted to engage. In Poland, you can’t just buy a ticket and with caution. Polish law says cars only Ninety-five percent of taxi drivers in There are a few things you should know. get on a bus or tram, you need to validate have to stop if there is somebody already Krakow are honest, hard-working guys Bantering and acting cheeky may get that sucker too. This means finding a on a crossing, not if they are waiting to just trying to make a living. Then there you somewhere at home, but it will leave validating machine on the bus or tram you cross. But don’t expect traffic to screech are the lads who’ll drive you fourteen Polish ladies cold. Poland remains a very are travelling on. The machine will stamp to a halt the moment you step onto a times around the block and demand a traditional, Catholic country in which crossing. Far better to wait for a big gap in gold-plated arm and a leg in return. women are highly respected and treated the traffic than blowing your beer money like ladies. They are not being cold on an intensive care unit bed. or uptight, it’s just a different culture. Poland has one of the worst road safety Respect it, or learn to enjoy your time records in Europe – don’t take the risk. in that odorous hostel room with your mates. 3. Public drinking It is illegal to drink alcohol in a public 9. Public disorder place. It doesn’t matter if you’re sucking If things start kicking off, don’t be tempted back cans on the corner of the street to stick around and watch the fun. The or sipping cocktails with your pinky Polish police are going to come down on extended at a riverside picnic – either can troublemakers like a bag full of anvils, earn you a hefty fine and a possible trip to and you don’t want to be there when it it with the date, time and your route. the drunk tank (see no. 4). happens. If you don’t do this, you’re travelling Obviously, this doesn’t apply to outside Fortunately, spotting the difference is Krakow has a long history of hooligan without a valid ticket and could be fined. seating provided by licensed premises easy. Genuine, regulated taxis will have violence – the local police have seen it Plainclothes ticket inspectors can pop up (though don’t be surprised if you can’t the rate-per-kilometre displayed in an all before and they will ruin your day if at any time and they don’t care that this buy spirits sitting outside). It does apply obvious place (2.80zł–3.40zł is normal) you try it on. These lads’ mums and dads isn’t the way it’s done on the No.7 to to nipping outside for a ciggie and taking and an equally obvious meter ticking rioted under Soviet machine guns – a few Ealing. your beer with you. If the bar doesn’t have away as you roll (usually with a minimum chairs thrown by beered-up fans is not You can buy tickets from machines on a license for on-the-street tables, you’re fee already displayed when you start). going to intimidate them. the street (usually next to major bus/tram just on the street drinking a beer, and open Genuine taxis also look like taxis, with Do not expect softly-softly police tactics. stops), from machines on some buses and to prosecution. large taxi-company logos and phone Poland’s anti-hooligan squads are armed trams, or from kiosks. But wherever you numbers emblazoned on them. If you’re with: buy your ticket, you must validate it, even 4. Public drunkenness not sure that the guy toting for fares is a ● Shotguns firing baton rounds that if you just bought it on the bus or tram Polish cops have long, long experience genuine taxi driver, he probably isn’t. probably won’t kill you as long as you are on. of public drunkenness and they know you’re 30m away, exactly how to deal with it – by locking 7. The honey trap ● A truck-mounted water cannon 2. Jaywalking and road safety your sorry carcass up in a bare cell until Two gorgeous ladies stop you on the affectionately known as the ‘Typhoon,’ Only cross roads at marked pedestrian long after you have a very sore head. street and invite you for a drink. It’s only ● A high-tech sonic canon that can make crossings, or face a 500zł fine. Wandering So you’ve obeyed all the rules. You’re natural – you’re a good looking bloke, and you wet yourself on its lowest setting, across the street anywhere you like, even stayed on licensed premises and the local girls are bound to be attracted to ● Dogs trained to bite you directly in the when there is no traffic in sight, is illegal. abandoned any thought of taking that last your sheen of Western sophistication… testicles, The police are bored of foreigners trying bottle out onto the street with you. You’re BZZZZZT, wrong answer. It’s a scam. ● 9mm handguns loaded with live ammo. to get out of these fines by claiming just wandering home, maybe singing a Follow them to ‘a little bar’ they know, buy …And that’s just the stuff they admit to. ignorance, so don’t even try it. And by little loudly, maybe making a few harmless them a couple of cocktails, and you’ll find the way, offering a bribe could get you a remarks to the ladies, maybe sitting down yourself facing a bill for several hundred 10. Strip clubs and brothels ticket straight to jail. for five minutes just to ‘rest your eyes.’ złoty, backed up by large gentlemen with You’ve probably read somewhere that You’ve fine, right? Wrong – if a passing shaved heads offering to escort you to a prostitution is legal in Poland and cop sees you as a public nuisance, they’re cash machine. have mentally constructed all kinds of not going to sooth your troubled brow and The biggest problem is that nothing interesting scenarios. While it is true that call you a cab, they’re going to slap on the technically illegal is going on. Somewhere there is no law against an individual selling cuffs and drag you away. in that bar, down the back of a sofa in a sex, brothels are completely illegal. This cellar guarded by an enraged bulldog, doesn’t mean they don’t exist, they do, 5. Drinking and driving is a price list that says: “Pink cocktail but if you step through the door be aware The legal blood-alcohol level for driving – 450zł.” That’s what your new ‘friends’ that you’re walking into a criminal world, in Poland is ZERO. Poland has an will order, and that’s what you’re legally and all that entails. horrendous problem with drink driving, obliged to pay for. There are several strip clubs in Krakow, and the authorities are keen to do and these are legal. But keep your wits something about it. Random checks are as 8. Respect about you. The Krakow Post has received real possibility. You’ve probably already noticed that many reports of customers’ credit and Some pedestrian crossings have lights Note that Polish drinking and driving laws Poland has more gorgeous women per debit cards being scammed for thousands (and a recorded voice) to tell you when also apply to bicycles. It might sound like square mile than Antarctica has snow of pounds. One visitor from the UK claims you can cross. Don’t think you can ignore a fun idea to hire some bikes and tool balls. Add to that the fact that they all to have had 13,000 pounds skimmed from these at 2am when there’s nothing but around town after a few afternoon beers, dress like graduates of the Chanel School his account in less than four hours at a tumbleweeds bowling down the street but it could prove a lot more expensive of Looking Sexy on a Catwalk, and you’re Krakow strip joint. than anticipated. JUNE 06/2012

Greetings from Krakow

Dear England…page 8

RECIPES | REVIEWS | EVENTS | FASHION | SHOPPING | CINEMA | MORE 2 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

ul. Mikołajska 3 | moaburger.com Jamie Stokes

There’s a major football tournament going on and that the ingredients are tip top and the guy in the back you’re in Europe’s most beautiful city, but the really room flipping the burgers is a massively experienced good news is that Krakow is also home to one of the and highly trained chef. world’s greatest burger bars – MoaBurger. Owners Nick and Patrycja Eltringham worked in The idea of gourmet burgers is relatively new in this some of the world’s great restaurants before settling country, where a scorched sausage in a bun is the in Poland and opening MoaBurger. Nick is from New height of fast-food sophistication, but if MoaBurger Zealand (hence the restaurant’s name) – a nation that can’t re-educate the nation’s taste buds, nothing can. knows a thing or two about good meat and fresh I don’t want to give the impression that there’s ingredients. anything ‘delicate’ or ‘fancy’ about MoaBurger’s menu – Moa’s Classic burger weighs in at 17zł, and is more than it’s not that kind of place. If you just want a burger the substantial enough to satisfy a mortal appetite. For size of your face to fill a cavernous hunger, you will not truly epic hunger pangs, order the Mammoth Burger be disappointed. for 28zł and get to work on a double patty along with The difference between the Moa experience and a two of every extra you can imagine. The chips, by the homemade patty slapped in a supermarket bun is way, are worth a trip on their own.

ul. Węgłowa 4 Jamie Stokes

Get yourself down to the pub and party heart of owner Konrad Job points out: “It’s Indian street food… Krakow for a taste of the orient. Kazimierz is heaven this is how millions of Indians and Pakistanis eat every if you like grungy bars and a wild and sweaty music day – on the street, on the go, using the traditional scene, but it’s also home to the city’s most authentic bread and their fingers rather than knives, forks and Indian restaurant. plates.” RotiRoti Indian Cafe is a tasty rarity in Poland, a country You can take a seat in RotiRoti’s colourful dining room, that has not yet fallen in love with the cuisine of the or take your food to go. A stuffed roti costs just 12zł subcontinent. It specialises in utterly authentic Indian and filling options include chilli pork, chicken palak street food, and maintains a slick and modern image and chicken tikka. A vegetarian version will set you rather than the flock wallpaper and sitar music you back only 10zł. might be used to. Also on the menu are spicy soups, irresistible pakora, As the name suggests, the roti is the cafe’s signature samosas and salads ranging in price from 5 to 8zł. offering. This flat bread is ubiquitous in South Asia and And to wash it all down, sweet and mango lassi or a can be stuffed with all manner of delicious treats. As steaming mug of genuine masala chai (5zł).

ul. Karmelicka 56 Stuart Wadsworth Fans of Mexican food have had to make do with pretty dish, and as little as 6zł for a dessert. Starters include slim pickings in Krakow, until now. Finally, Alebriche Aztec soup – tomato-based concoction served with has appeared to fill this burrito-sized gap. It’s the first fried tortilla and avocado, which is both unusual and Mexican-owned and run restaurant in town, and their very tasty. Alternatively, try the plate of freshly baked aim is to provide authentic, fresh and cheap food – just nachos with a selection of tasty dips including refried like it is back home. beans, guacamole, cheese and spicy minced meat. The décor is homely and unfussy – folksy art and Among the highly authentic main courses are ornaments and a few pictures of Mexican vistas Chicken mole (a sweet and spicy dish which combines adorn the walls – and the colour scheme is bright chili, cocoa powder and more than 30 other and welcoming. Service comes with a friendly smile, ingredients) and Filete Relleno – a breaded fish and the waitresses are happy to talk you through their fillet stuffed with shrimps, cream cheese, tomato menu, which is short but includes most of what you and onion. would expect of a good Mexican: tortilla, nachos, Alebriche is an excellent addition to the local dining quesadillas, enchiladas, and tamales. The hand-made scene. This kind of authenticity is rare, and with a tortillas are a revelation. selection of decent Mexican alcohol, this place could Prices are low – expect to pay around 20zł for a main become Krakow’s spice-house of choice. www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | June 2012 3 KINO MANIA Go now! See it Solid If you must Avoid Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi (One Billion Happy People) So what happens when you 2011 take a Disco Polo band on a Directed by: Maciej Bochniak tour of the Chinese provinces?

Giuseppe Sedia

It’s hard to imagine two more wildly different cultures Full’s old guard front man Sławomir Świerzyński and than rural China and Polish Disco Polo – that cheesy, liberal but extravagant Sinologue Krzysztof Darewicz foot-tapping music that continues to dominate are obviously too different to make this a buddy wedding celebrations across this nation. So what movie, but both recognise that they need each other. happens when you take a Disco Polo band on a tour of Stranded in an unknown milieu, Świerzyński and his the Chinese provinces? Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi is the band need a spin-doctor to localize their lyrics and answer. HBO Poland has displayed flair and courage to secure introductions to local producers, while in producing Maciej Bochniak’s documentary, which Darewicz needs Bayer Full’s engagement on stage to follows the Chinese odyssey of ensemble Bayer Full. complete his master plan. Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi is an encounter between eventually also sheds some light on the potential for two worlds, but also between two equally different harmless lyrics and peppy tunes for the promotion of characters out of their depth in a foreign land. Bayer local politicians, regardless of their hue.

Lęk wysokości (Fear of Falling) the barrier separating father 2011 Starring: Marcin Dorociński, Krzysztof Stroiński, and son remains, both Magdalena Popławska literally and figuratively, Directed by: Bartosz Konopka impassable.

Giuseppe Sedia

The father-and-son relationship has become the figuratively, impassable. By contrast, in Lęk wysokości, narrative leitmotif for a new generation of Silesian the door is almost immediately beaten down by filmmakers who have produced a number of strident, Tomek, who becomes entangled in an unhealthy festival-targeted but psychologically dense works in relationship with his schizophrenic old man. Tomek recent years. Bartosz Konopka has joined this trend eventually begins to talk to himself and his private life after captivating documentary devotees worldwide is suddenly on the verge of ruin. Stroiński has hit it big with Królik po Berlińsku (Rabbit à la Berlin, 2009). with his chameleonic and self-destructive character, As with the main character in Marek Lechki’s solid while Dorociński demonstrates an anguished debut Erratum (2011), Konopka’s lead Tomek (Marcin coolness once again. Thanks to Studio Munka’s task- Dorociński) decides to put aside his regular life for a force, Konopka’s debut was distributed with English while in order to solve conflicts with his estranged subtitles in some parts of Poland – an unusual practice father (Krzysztof Stroiński). In Lechki’s film, the barrier that should certainly be followed in future. separating father and son remains, both literally and

Jowita Directed by: Janusz Morgenstern Starring: Daniel Olbrychski, Barbara (Jovita) Kwiatkowska-Lass, Zbigniew Cybulski 1967 Giuseppe Sedia

Despite a theatrical release that included the US, but somehow more light-hearted Olbrychski. and a review in The New York Times, Jowita sank This symbolical changeover takes place in the flat rapidly into oblivion after its release. The screenplay of Cybulski’s character, an athletics trainer called for Janusz Morgenstern’s third feature met mixed Edward, where he invites Olbrychski’s character, reviews and suffered from banal comparisons with runner Marek, to abandon his chimeras and take the psychological complexity of Stanisław Dygat’s part in the race without idealism. The sentimental novel Disneyland (1965). Although the character of education of Marek in search of Jowita – a female Marek Arens in the movie has been dismissed as less figure encountered during a masquerade ball – is set in-depth than its counterpart in the novel, Daniel against the background of a well-lit and vaguely fairy Olbrychski brought him to life with such vigour that version of Krakow. The main chimera Marek longs for it won him a status in Polish Cinema comparable to is interpreted with verve by Roman Polanski’s first that of Zbigniew Cybulski. With Jowita, the baton wife Barbara Kwiatkowska-Lass. passed from Cybulski to the younger, more restless, 4 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Exhibitions Film

Concerts

Theatre, Opera & Dance

Other Events

Krakers The Art of the Allotment Photography in Everyday Life Independent Cinema A dozen smaller but no less intriguing galleries will There is something quite primeval about the What is Lech Walesa doing in a photography textbook? Earlier this year, Krakow’s Agrafka cinema became the open their doors to the public this month, to show acquisition of food and the bringing of life from the What is the most ‘Polish’ photograph of all time? And latest in the city to join the ranks of Europa Cinemas that they are more than a match for the likes of the soil. So, while hunters hunt and gatherers gather, just why does this man have horns (you’ll have to – a mark of the high standards and attention to the national and city museums when it comes to putting it’s not surprising that the idea of ‘grow your own’ is check the exhibition to discover which man…)? cinematic experience that is consistently high at the on a show. Those taking part will include Nova, New still so deeply entrenched in the human psyche. Shown as part of the Photomonth festival in Krakow, institution. Featuring new movies, classics, special Roman, Zderzak, Garaż, Dietla 44, Galeria AS, korporacja This exhibition is the penultimate stage of a wide- British critic Charlotte Cotton has directed this show, events and world/arthouse cinema, Agrafka is a Art Word, Fundacja Sztuk Wizualnych, Pauza, Ersatz, ranging project looking at the phenomenon from at one of the most creative galleries in the city. Don’t welcome escape from the multiplexes springing up and Łącznik – and if you get your skates on, you might an anthropological viewpoint, and is presented in miss the chance to visit, and take part in workshops around the city. just see them all. collaboration with a blog at www.dzielodzialka.eu. It and more. will come to an end later this year. Where: Various locations Where: Ethnographic Museum, Pl. Wolnica 1 Where: Bunkier Sztuki, pl. Szczepanski 3a Where: Agrafka, ul. Krowoderska 8 When: June 14–16 When: Until October 21 When: Until June 17 When: Permanent

IED Rare Coins and Medals In the footsteps of Krakow’s Kino pod Baranami Very few adults have the courage to approach the The magnificent pieces in this exhibition are widely European Identity There are rumours that this is the best independent world from the point of view of a child of three. This recognised to be among the most important and A space the size of a football pitch has been cinema in Europe. From what we’ve seen, we’re not project is an ambitious attempt to address those issues valuable coins and medals anywhere in Poland. transformed into a subterranean museum beneath about to argue – Kino pod Baranami certainly packs that appear consuming and often insurmountable to They include currency bearing the images of the the market square. Since medieval times, the ground a massive punch in the cinematic stakes, offering a us as children, but which we cast aside over the years. Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as coins from the times of level of the plaza has risen about 3 metres, following real alternative to the multiplexes that are springing Nevertheless, the theories that we formulate in those Kazimierz the Great and Bolesław Chrobry. Together, fires and consecutive rebuilding. However, all kinds up, and getting return visits from film fans of every tender years remain with us in some form, and are these 28 pieces represent a new and often hidden of treasures have been languishing down there, and hue. Sure, they’ll screen the box office hits at pod often recognisable when they are shown to us afresh perspective on Polish history, usually only available to on September 24th all was revealed with the grand Baranami, but you’re just as likely to find a festival of by young minds and we are forced to look again. scholars and the National Museum. opening. The queues of eager punters show that this Spanish cinema, animation cycles for children, late set to be a runaway hit in Krakow’s cultural galaxy. night themed screenings, and much more. Where: Galeria AS, ul. Sw. Marka 22 Where: Bishop Erazm Ciolek Palace, ul. Kanonicza 17 Where: Underground Museum, Rynek Głowny Where: Kino pod Baranami, Rynek Główny When: June 1–17 When: Until July 22 When: Ongoing When: Permanent

Living Gallery Rene Magritte and photography Two lands, two skies X-Rated Alice This is the latest in a cycle of exhibitions from the Among the surrealists, Magritte was a character who This exhibition of photographs showcases a selection Alice in Wonderland: A charming animated children’s National Museum, to be held at the Gallery of 20th stood out for his boldness and wit, challenging the of the work of a Krakow-born photographer who set tale, a metaphor for drug-induced exploration of Century Polish Art. It will feature the works of three world to look again at what it thought it already knew. out to document the relationship and differences the psyche, a mathematically perfect model for a Krakow artists - Leszek Dutka, Walenty Gabrysiak and The photographs in this exhibition were created between the two worlds of Poland and Palestine. Ze’ev novel… or porn? Well, of course this was going to Bogusław Szwacz. Dutka’s signature is surprise – for the between 1925 and 1955, and together with movies (Wilhelm) Aleksandrowicz was born in Krakow in 1905. be made. In fact, it was made in the US in 1976, and viewer – which is drawn largely from his own curiosity they offer an insight into the private life of the artist, His passion for photography took him around the is this month’s offering in Mikro’s Exploitation Cycle. about the world. The exhibition is a rare chance to his family, and his friends. Presented in collaboration world, including three visits to Palestine in the 1930s. It does, ostensibly, have a storyline, and there will be see previously unpublicised work from Gabrysiak, with the Polish and Belgian Walloon governments, and He died in Tel Aviv in 1992 – and it would beanother opportunity for discussion afterwards. while Szwacz’s contribution will include his thought- representatives of the French community of Belgium. 11 years before his life’s work - 15,000 negatives - were provoking My Life and The Ruins of Warsaw. Where: MCK, Rynek Główny 25 discovered. Where: National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 When: Until June 10 Where: Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 Where: Kino Mikro, ul. J. Lea 5 When: Until June 10 When: Until July 31 When: June 22

Sport in Art Live Flesh Crown Treasury and Armoury Little Kino, Big Ideas Following the success of History in Art, this exhibition If you are at all prudish, this exhibition of photographs Recently re-opened after refurbishment, this exhibition An immediate hit on the movie scene in Krakow, Kika takes a look at one of the other major influences on our from the collection of Cezary Pieczynski is probably is on the site of the former royal treasury. It was here is a tiny place that packs a big punch. There are only 41 everyday lives. Through photography and installation, not going to be for you. If, on the other hand, you’re that the trappings of Poland’s regal family were stored, seats, but what this place lacks in stature it more than it attempts to uncover just how sport can arouse such okay with images of the naked human form, then housing crowns, scepters, orbs and all the ceremonial makes up for in prowess; cafe, bar, comfy sofas, state of bestial passions at times, but has the power to calm step right in. The exhibition represents an exploration equipment used to raise princes to kings. Among the art equipment… and of course a range of the best and sedate at other times. The central hypothesis of the form of the flesh, in abstract detail and full-on these is the most important and symbolic artifact of arthouse films available, all come together to create a seems to be that mankind needs to fight, to strive and observation. Note that, although the exhibition is all – the Szczerbiec sword used in the coronation of new and impressive experience in an upcoming area triumph – and that, as a species, we have found a way open until the end of June, it will be closed on the 2nd monarchs. Other artifacts have survived war, pillage of Krakow that is really beginning to make a name for to do just that without risk of serious injury. of that month, and between the 7th and 13th. and wanton vandalism – in much the same way as itself among tourists and locals alike. Poland itself. Where: MOCAK, ul. Lipowa 4 Where: Galeria Starmach, ul. Węgierska 5 Where: Wawel Royal Castle Where: Kino Kika, ul. Krasickiego 18 When: From May 18 When: Until June 30 When: Permanent When: Ongoing CULTURAL PARTNERS www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | June 2012 5

Metropolis Maria Sadowska Lucjan Mianowski: Head-head, 1968

German Film Cycle Days of Mendelssohn Little Lord Fauntleroy Boeing, Boeing As an international city, Krakow knows how to cater for Boris Godunov Going under the Polish name Mały Lord, this There will be many chances to see what is becoming visitors from all over the world – and to its own citizens Kijów.Centrum is broadcasting a season of classic production regularly pulled in the crowds last season an absolute comedy classic at Bagatela this month who are keen to learn more about a foreign culture. ballets from Paris, London, New York St Petersburg – and this month acts as a warm-up to the eagerly- – with plenty of right-up-to-the-line-and-a-little-bit- This month at the Goethe Institute there will be a and Moscow – this month has two showings. The first awaited Summer Opera Festival. Steven Markwick’s past-it humour and a very tongue in cheek storyline. screening of R. Simon’s 1972 classic Sechse kommen will be Boris Godunov, on June 10, coming live from show is based on the book by Frances Hodgson It’s the tale of Max, who has got himself into a bit durch die Welt, as part of the German Films in Original New York. Then, on June 24, it will be Raimonda, from Burnett (author of The Secret Garden), and tells the of a fix with three brides to be... all of whom are air Cycle. All of the movies are shown in German, and Moscow. Both screenings take place at 5pm. Tickets story of the ‘little boy with a heart of gold’ whose hostesses. To find out how – or if – he can solve such a admission is free. cost 45zł, available from the cinema box office – or visit influence challenges the perceptions and prejudices delicate problem, book now, because it’s very hard to the website at www.kijow.pl for more information. of the inhabitants of Dorincourt Castle. get tickets for this show. See the website for a full list of performance dates. Where: Goethe Institute, Rynek Główny 20 Where: Kijów.Centrum, al. Krasińskiego 34 Where: Krakow Opera House, ul. Lubicz 48 Where: Teatr Bagatela, ul. Karmelicka 6 When: June 13 When: June 10 and 24, 5pm When: June 1, 2, 3 When: June 15, 16, 17

Choral Fantasy Peer Gynt The Velveteen Rabbit Regional Products Fair Film Music Nobody would pretend that the Norwegian pensmith (Aksamitny Królik) Step away from the bars, the kebabs, the myriad This year’s Summer at the Philharmonic season Henryk Ibsen is an easy writer to get to grips with. Teatr Groteska’s end of June show is a delightful museums and galleries and throngs of tourists for a presents classic scores from your favourite films – the Nevertheless, Peer Gynt, his best-known work, is a interpretation of the children’s story by American couple of days, and visit this two-day regional product perfect way to relax and end a summer’s day in the play that for more than 100 years has captured the author Margery Williams. With echoes of Pinocchio, fair in nearby Kryspinów. What’s it all about? Everything city. The concert brings together the considerable imaginations of audiences world-wide. It also won this is the award-winning tale of the quest of one traditional to Małopolska, from arts and crafts to talents of the Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra and the Ibsen critical acclaim for his skillful blending of the increasingly shabby stuffed rabbit to become ‘real’ produce specific to the region’s towns and cities, and institution’s choir, in the central concert hall on the real and the unreal and his careful handling of a script through the love of its owner. Bitter-sweet, by turns its historical and archaeological heritage. There will be edge of the Planty. This event will be conducted by that stands alone as dialogue without the need for funny and touching, this thoughtful Polish language dancing, competitions, displays of archery and other Janusz Powolny, and tickets cost from 20zł to 60zł. any physical setting at all. Showing on selected dates interpretation is sure to stir the hearts of children of knightly pursuits, and much more to keep the whole only. all ages. family occupied. Where: Krakow Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 Where: Słowacki Theatre, pl. Sw. Ducha 1 Where: Teatr Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 Where: Kryspinów, near Krakow When: June 15, 7.30pm When: June 19 & 20 When: June 21–25 When: May 12–13 6 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Dear England… Advice to the lads for their stay in Poland According to the tabloids, choosing Krakow as England’s base was the dumbest idea since somebody gave Justin Bieber a microphone. Gentlemen, not that you need telling this, but the tabloids are talking out of their trouser area. If there’s a better place to live, work and play within a thousand miles, I would have heard about it and moved there by now.

How to make Poland love you… At some point, you’re going to find yourself talking to Polish journalists, Know something, anything, about Polish history dignitaries or barmen. These are the topics to avoid, and the observations Poles get immensely frustrated that the only things people know about their country is that Commu- that will earn you the adoration of the nation. nism and the Holocaust happened here. There are a thousand years of other events that the world seems to have forgotten about. Proud high- Don’t mention the war The Polish language lights include: Europe’s first democratic (kind of) constitution (1791) This is a tricky one. We all know Britain declared The Poles are immensely proud of their language Polish astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus figured out that the Earth goes around the Sun and not the war on Germany because they invaded Po- and secretly love the idea that Westerners find other way around (1543) land. The bad news – Poland wasn’t massively it difficult. Fortunately, you won’t have to fake Polish King Jan III Sobieski lead the largest cavalry charge in history at the Battle of Vienna (1683), halt- impressed by this. From the Polish point of view, this. To the uninitiated, Polish does resemble an ing the advance of the Ottoman Empire into Europe. just declaring war was a lot less helpful than explosion in a Scrabble factory – and the pronun- The Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth (1569–1795) was one of the richest and most powerful states in actually turning up and fighting the invaders, ciation demands all kinds of things our tongues the world at the time. something we didn’t do until several years later. aren’t used to doing. Learn one or two phrases Polish freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746–1817) was a hero of the American War of Indepen- Don’t be surprised if talk of the Polish-English and Poland will love you forever, especially if you dence and then returned to Poland to lead an uprising against Prussian and Russian occupiers. That alliance earns stony silence or a guffaw. get the pronunciation spectacularly wrong. huge artificial mound overlooking the city (Kopiec Kościuszki) is a monument to him. A night out… We know you’re here to train, not to party, but if you don’t spend at least one evening on the town, you’ll be missing the greatest drinking experience since Ug the Caveman discovered that 3-month-old grape juice tastes surprisingly good. But how to manage a pint or two away from the cameras? The good news is there are around 500 bars in this town, and most of them are invisible to outsiders. Media types have been pestering us for months for tips on the best bars in town, and here is what we told them: Antycafe Nic Nowego House of Beer Baroque ul. Sławkowska 12 ul. Św. Krzyża 15 ul. Św. Tomasza 35 ul. Św. Jana 16 www.antycafe.pl www.nicnowego.com www.houseofbeerkrakow.com www.baroque.com.pl A stalwart of expat evenings out for years now, A 30-metre long, cornucopia of hidden Nic Nowego is an Irish bar with a difference. Literally across the street from Nic Nowego, Tuck your shirts in for this one gents – Baroque is nooks and shadowy corners just metres Owner Tom has ditched the shamrocks, the House of Beer does exactly what it the place to take the ladies, or to find the kind of from the Market Square. Grungy and shillelaghs and green beer and kept only says on the tin. The entire wall behind the ladies who like sipping cocktails in slinky dresses. cool, but in a sophisticated way, what is great about the Irish pub experience – bar is lined with bottles of obscure Central There are several rooms and bars to explore, Antycafe is one of the city’s hottest new impressively efficient and friendly staff (a rarity in European brews, and there are always a each one more glamorous than the last. Head watering holes. this city), a bright and chatty atmosphere, and, of handful of local specialities on tap too. downstairs to find the dance floor. course, the best breakfast in Poland. Of course, now you know where these places are, so do the paps and the crowds. For the real, off-the-radar list, drop me an email. www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | June 2012 7 Good, wholesome fun… We keep hearing that the reason you guys are here rather than in a fenced compound somewhere in a Ukrainian forest is so that you can enjoy some distractions away from the pitch. But what exactly is there to do in Krakow, apart from the obvious tourist sites? Go-karting Photography Classic cars Classic planes If you’ve ever dreamed of hurtling around the For lens-heads who know their Lomos from If the idea of more vintage motors than you Surely the manliest, most hairy-chested museum car park of an abandoned Communist-era hotel their Leicas, the Museum of the History of can shake a rusty spanner at takes your fancy, in Krakow, the Polish Aviation Museum (www. in a 200cc GoKart, now’s your chance. Krakow’s Photography (www.mhf.krakow.pl) is a snapshot get down to the Museum of Civil Engineering muzeumlotnictwa.pl) is stuffed with warbirds Motodrom Hala Kartingowa (www.gokarty.pl) of heaven on Earth. The display features rare in Kazimierz (www.mimk.com.pl). Rows of from the dawn of flight to the supersonic age. can put you on the right track. Legend has it that vintage kit and an archive of images going back mint-condition classic Polish cars, trucks and Highlights include one of the last Spitfires on Polish F1 driver Robert Kubica honed his skills to 1850. motorcycles in a setup that feels more like an public display and MiG Alley – a line-up of Cold here, probably. indoor car park than a museum await. War fighters ideal for reenacting Top Gun-style Crampons and pitons A different angle high fives. Rock-climbing is a rapidly-growing hobby in Flip the Nazis a retrospective finger – instead of spending time moping around Auschwitz or the Krakow and several indoor climbing walls are former Jewish ghetto, drop in to the Jewish Community Centre (www.jcckrakow.org) to experience available for Cracovians and visitors to dangle the rebirth of a community that has been a part of Krakow for 700 years. As the director of the centre from in their spare time. The best known is the puts it: “We want to show the world that Poland is place of Jewish life and not of Jewish death.” At the Forteca climbing centre (www.cwf.pl/), which has end of June is the 22nd Jewish Culture Festival – which has already outlived the ‘1000-year Reich’ by 1,200 square metres of climbing walls featuring about 4-to-1. “chimneys, jams and pillars” whatever that means. A few words and phrases to help you discuss …And some well-known Polish football wisdom: Vocabulary the beautiful game with the locals: Mecz można wygrać, przegrać lub zremisować. Dopóki piłka w grze, wszystko jest możliwe. Football – Piłka nożna (pew-ka noz-na Sick as a parrot A match can end in a win, a loss, or a draw. As long as the ball is in play, anything is possible. [the ‘z’ is pronounced like the ‘J’ in the French Chory jak papuga (horr-ah yak pap-ooga) name Jacques] Piłka jest okrągła, a bramki są dwie. Tak się gra, jak przeciwnik pozwala. Looks strong on paper - Wygląda dobrze na The ball is round and there are two goals. You can only play the way the other team lets We was robbed! papierze (vuh-glonda dob-zeh na pap-ee-air-zeh you play. Zostaliśmy okradzeni (zo-stal-eesh-mey okrad- [the ‘z’s are pronounced like the ‘J’ in the French Praca trenera jest jak molo - kiedyś się kończy. zeni) name Jacques] Coaching is like a pier – eventually it comes to Nasza reprezentacja gra bosko - Bóg jeden wie, an end. jak zagra. It’s a game of two halves It’s a funny old game - To dziwna gra (toh jiv-nah Our team plays divinely – only God knows how. To gra mająca dwie połowy (toh gra may-on-say [‘j’ as in ‘James’] gra) dvee-eh po-wov-eh) Offside! - Spalony (spa-lon-eh) 8 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

As Communism in Poland began to crack and for a show that is broadcast across Poland and beyond. crumble, a small group of people staged a festival in This year, the finale concert will be on July 7, starting at Krakow, celebrating aspects of Jewish culture. That was 6pm and going on way into the night. back in 1988, and what was then a fringe event has But the festival is about much more this. The organising grown into today’s festival – featuring some 200 events committee has spent the past year – practically since and expected to attract many thousands of people, of the end of the 2011 festival – planning this year’s Lords, Ladies… and Dragons! all religions, cultures and nations. extravaganza; and they’ve come up with quite a To give some idea of the extent and importance of the programme. Dragons and knights, lords and ladies, princesses and will be given a carnival makeover, with stalls selling festival, simply compare the rise in attendance. In that Workshops, seminars, lectures, craft sessions, live princes… they will all be in Krakow on June 2 and 3, for gifts and refreshments. It is possible to purchase tickets first year, about 100 people came; now, thanks to live music, dancing, heritage events… there is something the 12th Grand Dragon Parade. in the VIP area to see the show, for 15zl each, but most TV broadcasts, parts of the festival are seen by close to on the programme for all. The events – like the festival This festival of the fantastic is organised annually by visitors choose to pick a spot on the bridges or the river half a million worldwide – on top of the crowds who itself – have an ethos of respect, tolerance and shared the Groteska Theatre, an organisation that regularly bank and watch from there, for free. flock to Krakow to get a live taste of proceedings. experience, so most will be presented either in several wins awards for innovation in performance, visuals Then, on June 3, there will be a courtly parade along ul. Even those who are not familiar with the Krakow languages at once, or in individual versions. This ethos and puppetry. All of the events are free to enter, and Grodzka to the Main Square in Krakow – with knights, Festival of Jewish Culture will probably be aware of extends to access too, and many of the events are free regularly attract thousands of visitors. princesses and more. Judging of the Lord and Lady of the massive open–air concert that takes place each to attend. On the first day of the parade, June 2, will be the main the Manor will take place in the Square at 2pm, while year. Ulica Szeroka is turned into a carnival zone for the For a full programme, ticket information, news and event. Dragons, some 25 metres long, will parade there will be prizes for those who have made the best duration, as international bands play to massive crowds more, visit the festival website at jewishfestival.pl along the river against a backdrop of fireworks, lasers model dragons, at 2.30pm. and music, and the river bank beneath Wawel Castle For more information, visit Groteska.pl. Here is a selection of just some of the highlights from Summer Opera Festival the 2012 programme: Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro will open the 16th Krakow Oleś-Blacha, and Tomasz Kuk, accompanied by the History Summer Opera Festival, on June 15 at the city opera Krakow Opera Orchestra. The Maccabees in Sport – Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24, June 29, 2pm. house. The lavish production, which will be repeated The castle courtyard will also be the backdrop for The Men and Women in the Traditional Jewish Home – National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, July 1, noon. on June 17, 19 and 21, is directed by Laco Adamik, Grand Pas ballet gala (June 25), with soloists from the Shtetl: The Roots of Jewish Villages – Klezmer Hois, ul. Szeroka 6, July 3, 8am. and conducted by Tomasz Tokarczyk – and will feature Polish National Ballet, the Kremlin Ballet Theatre, and Ghetto Tour – Apteka pod Orlem, Pl. Bohaterow Getta 18, July 4, 12.30pm. New York Met baritone Mariusz Kwiecień in the role of Krakow’s own Opera Ballet. The third Wawel event Jewish Politics in Inter-War Poland – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 6, 3pm. Count Almaviva. This is an opportunity to hear Polish of the festival will be the Great Choir of the Great greats Robert Gierlach and Krzysztof Szumański, who Operas, on June 26. Tadeusz Kozłowski will conduct Film will share the role of Figaro. the orchestra of Krakow Opera, in choir pieces from Les Illusions Perdues 1941–1942 – Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18, June 30, 11.30am Mariusz Kwiecień will also feature in the World Opera Halka, Lohengrin, Carmen and more. The festival runs Diaspora: Film Lecture – Centre for Jewish Culture, ul. Meiselsa 17, July 2, 4pm Arias concert, on June 24, at the courtyard of Wawel from June 15 to July 5, and information is available at Forty Shades of Grey – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 4, 7pm Royal Castle. Other artists performing at this concert opera.krakow.pl. Finding Kalman – Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18, July 4, noon will include Ewa Biegas, Wioletta Chodowicz, Katarzyna His People – Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24, July 8, 8pm

Secret Gardens Music Sometimes you just want to find a peaceful spot in the garden walls of monasteries, palaces, and private Musical Shabbat – Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwor 18, June 29, 8.30pm the sunshine and relax… and what better way to do homes. Green-fingered visitors can also learn tricks Swinging Ballroom Boat Party – Sobieski Boat, near Wawel, June 30, 8pm this than by taking part in the 7th Garden Festival in of the trade, to help them make their own gardens Hassidic Music – Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24, July 4, 10pm Krakow, from June 1–17? flourish. Frank London and Friends – Alchemia, ul. Estery 5, July 5, midnight Organised by the Botanical Garden of the Jagiellonian The Botanical Gardens will of course be open for the Tea Dance Party – Plac Wolnica, July 6, 7pm University, Malwa Music Club, and the Society of duration of the festival, but there will also be open days Gardens of Art, the theme this year will be on the at the Austrian Consulate in Krakow (ul. Cybulskiego Crafts & Workshops importance of gardens in our lives, and ways in which 9), the Jozef Mehoffer Museum (ul. Krupnicza 26), Jewish Cooking – Alrina boat, ul. Gazowa, July 1, 2.30pm we can develop them as both habitats and places of The Malopolska Library (ul. Rajska 1), and many more. Jewish Paper Cooking – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 2, 10.30am beauty. See swietoogrodow.pl for the full programme – and Yiddish Singing – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 4, 10am There will be opportunities to visit gardens that are look out for gallery and music events linked to the Workshops for Children – Popper Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 16, July 4, 10.30am normally out of bounds to the public, and step behind festival. Yosemite Jewellery – Alrina boat, ul. Gazowa, July 6, 3pm www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | June 2012 9 TOTALLY ENORMOUS EXTINCT DINOSAURS

7 life

BURN SELECTOR FESTIVAL Cyan Stage Magenta Stage

The re-emergence of electronic music as the soundtrack of choice for Polish youth 01.06 18:30 Com Truise (pick!) 17:30 Blossom is no better demonstrated than by the glowing success of Selector, one of Poland’s 20:00 Neon Indian 19:00 Rebeka (pick!) biggest summertime festivals, and certainly Krakow’s best source for hearing what’s 22:00 Chase & Status (Live) 21:00 Redinho (pick!) (pick!) 23:00 Stay+ hip in the synth-pop world. This year’s focus on super-contemporary electronic 00:00 Hadouken 01:00 Totally Enormous Extinct beats has somewhat pushed aside previous editions’ penchant for dancefloor- Dinosaurs (pick!) friendly indie darlings (think Franz Ferdinand) or living legends (like Orbital). Dubstep, a genre that has exploded into a worldwide chart-topping steamroller, will be well Cyan Stage Magenta Stage 18:30 Niki & The Dove 17:30 We Call It A Sound

represented by heavyweights Magnetic Man (Benga, Skream, Artwork) and live 02.06 dubstep/dnb band Chase & Status. It’s also rumoured that Totally Enormous Extinct 20:00 Buraka Som Sistema 19:00 Sinusoidal Dinosaurs has one of the most impressive live acts out there. Plus - don’t miss the (pick!) 21:00 The Kdms 22:00 Miike Snow 23:00 Disclosure (pick!) Disclosure/ Selector Yellow Stage to hear the cream of Poland’s up and coming DJs. 00:00 Magnetic Man (pick!) 01:00 Sub Focus (pick!)

04.06 Photomonth: More... Visionary Hours & Lights Dim 01.06 / Julia Marcell at Pauza Alchemia, Estery 5 tagged: ambient, instrumental, electro-acoustic 01.06 / Radiofonia 3rd Birthday Picnic on Gołębia Krakow’s expat music scene has been an active 05.06 / Lamb of God at Studio community for years, and while the stereotypical pub 09.06 / Eltron John & Motyl at Pauza bands will probably never go away, there are plenty 15.06 / Skinny Patrini at Pauza of people consistently doing their own thing. Hayden 15.06 / DJ Land 4 at various locations Berry’s Visionary Hours project is an example, with 26.06 / The Ugly World Tour 2012 at Studio his spiraling ambient music that can be heard on his last LP The Road to Basho. Joining Berry on stage for supporting electronics and instrumentals is Marek Kaminski, a member of the local post-rock band New Century Classics and solo artist under the name of Lights Dim. Arrive early to hear Lights Dim perform a quick 20 MAGNETIC MAN/ SELECTOR minute opening set. Entry 10 PLN.

05.06 06.06 Moving Mountains Das Metropolis Rozrywki Trzy, Mikołajska 3 Rozrywki Trzy, Mikołajska 3 tagged: indie rock, post-rock, post-hardcore tagged: techno, disco, bass, house New York-based indie rockers Moving Mountains will This month, Das Metropolis will host three local figures deliver your regular fix of rock this month, stopping for at a party inspired by the atmosphere of the home of a show at Rozrywki Trzy during their Summer European techno - Detroit. Followers of the Krakow club scene are Tour. Drawing from indie, post-rock, and classic emo already familiar with the disco-leaning DJ sets of Eltron sounds, nearly everything someone writes about Moving John, host of Radiofonia show Ktoś Cię Kocha and the Mountains includes a comparison to The Appleseed Cast producer behind several solid releases on top Polish - which isn’t such a displaced observation, really. Fresh labels like Pets and Koh-I-Noor. Relative newcomers from releasing their New Light EP and touring America Sentel have already marked their spot as essential with Coheed and Cambria, Moving Mountains are at the Krakow representatives in the international bass music top of their game. Don’t miss young Polish powerhouse scene. Hosts Third Wave Romantics will also spin their trio Setting the Woods on Fire opening the show either! take on the raw Detroit techno sound. Daniel Drumz

Jewish Culture Festival Soul Blow: Kixnare & Good Paul Alchemia, Estery 5 Pauza, Floriańska 18 tagged: international jazz, rock, 29.06 - 08.07 tagged: hip-hop, soul, future beats 08.06 Concerts are a big part of the Jewish Culture Festival, Krakow crew Soul Blow, made up of Kixnare and Good which takes place in and around Krakow’s Kazimierz Paul, have been organizing parties under the same district every year. Tradition meets classical and world name for a while now, bringing together local and music on a daily basis at venues like Tempel Synagogue international talent connecting a huge variety of sounds and Cheder Cafe, but it’s Alchemia which is set to host with a soulful flavour. the most casual musical forays into Jewish culture with its While both use hip-hop as a starting point, each artist Midnite Sessions and Alchemia Jam series. Hip-hop, rock, has taken his own organic path in music. RBMA alumni jazz, and electronic sounds meet with performances and Good Paul has a strong production history, and recently jam sessions from artists like: Frank London & Friends, released a cassette of material on the Berlin-based Dirty Honkers, Rykarda Parasol, and Pitom Duo. For full Project: Mooncircle label. Meanwhile, Kixnare has been details check out the festival’s site at www.jewishfestival. riding high on the success of his latest CD Digital Garden. Ben Caplan pl Entry is free. 10 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

attempt to attract footie fans through its doors – though this may prove a disadvantage during an international tournament. Despite its unique moniker, in association with: Galeria Kazimierz the EFC is typical of the kind of subterranean bars you will find all over the city. There are cavernous rooms, classic Polish beers on tap, a projection screen and – its stand-out feature – a huge beer garden out back.

Albo Tak (Mały Rynek 4) seems to go out of its way to remain obscure. This is a shame, because it’s one of the best old-style, spit-and-sawdust drinking dens in Krakow. There is a sign outside, but you’d be forgiven Going to the pub is a fairly simple challenge, which for missing it, and walking through the door can be a With the sun high up in the sky and temperatures soaring the banks of the Vistula are teeming and are playing may go some way to explaining why it’s so popular. confusing experience because it takes you directly into host to what can only be described as a ‘bikini invasion’. Suddenly the sight of girls stretching out in skimpy two All you really have to do is turn up at roughly the a book shop rather than the bar you might have been pieces by Wawel Castle is proving to be a bigger tourist attraction than the castle itself! same time as other people you know and drink expecting. Simply turn left and head up the stairs to It is cool, courageous and even kind of kooky to sport your bikini in the heart of the city centre one thing you beer. Embellishments are possible of course, such as regain a grip on reality. need above all else is bags of confidence. But what is the bikini all about? conversation and drinking things other than beer, but Well, if it wasn’t for a bikini the careers of Raquel Welch (‘“One Million Years B.C”) and Ursula Andress (“Dr No”) nobody can really accuse you of having failed to spend Nic Nowego (ul. Św. Krzyża 15) is a long-established could have taken a different path, as both of them claim that the skimpy outfits played a major role in their route an evening in a bar if you simply sit there and get most watering hole on expat migration trails through to popularity and stardom. In fact, Andress emerging from the waves in “DR NO” gained status as one of the most of your drinks into your mouth. Krakow. It’s a near-perfect blend of Western standards memorable film moments in the history of cinema and quickly came to symbolise the power of feminity and the When compared to the classic, no-frills pub experience, of service and amenities, the hospitable feel of an Irish sexual revolution. visiting a sports bar begins to look like rocket science. bar (which it is), and a big dollop of Polishness. It’s one The infamous white bikini later sold at auction for a whooping $61,000. It was’t the skimpy piece of white fabric Suddenly there are all kinds of additional factors to take of the few places treated as a local by both Poles and that commanded the price, but its cultural significance as the symbol of sixties liberalization. into account – you have to be there at a specific time, expats, and it has a massive TV projection screen. Considering that the Bikini, which was introduced to the mass market in 1946, was named after the pacific island ensure that nobody tips you off to the result, find a of Bikini Atolle where the Americans tested atomic bombs, we can confidently declare the bikini effect by Wawel place to sit that allows you to see a screen and, most The Irish Mbassy (ul. Stolarska 3) is the fully-pimped as ‘bombastic’. Just go and check it out yourself... challenging of all, find a decent sports bar in the first ride of Krakow sports bars. There are 10 plasma screens place. Relax – generous to a fault as always, the Krakow on three floors (one floor for smokers), international and Post’s Bar of the Month team has done the heavy local beers, a menu featuring curries, nachos and fish The 90’s saw a decline in a bikini sales mainly due lifting by rating every sports bar we could find and and chips and, almost uniquely in this city, a reasonable to the threat of skin camcer. winnowing out these top tips. number of toilets. If you want all the comforts of home, this is the place to go. On the other hand, if what you The blatantly named English Football Club (ul. wanted were all the comforts of home, why come to Mikołajska 5) wins the award for the most transparent Krakow?

The world’s most expensive bikini was made out of 150carats (30g) diamonds & cost a sexy £20 million

Even though the bikini is the most popular beachwear in the world, a recent survey discovered that 85% of bikinis actually never get wet.

The first ”bikinis” were discovered by archeologists and date back as early as 1600B.C

www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | June 2012 7 Photo of the Month

Podgorski – running below Andrez Getter’s leaf bridge Jake Williams 8 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com

ASTRO SELTZER

GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) Caught up in a whirl of social activity, you are on something of a natural high. Sudden changes are in the air: other people’s agendas are about to have an incredible impact on your life. And, while you like life to be a bit on the frenzied side, you must keep your eye on what you want.

CANCER (Jun 21 - Jul 22) LIBRA (Sep 23-Oct 22) CAPRICORN (DEC 21 - JAN 19) ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) This month, your intuition and You are no slouch in the passing You know, instinctively, when You cannot lie to yourself and emotional radar will be on top judgement department, but you are things are about to go pear- pretend that all is well with your form. Otherwise reliable people so diplomatic, people never notice shaped – it’s a gift. This month, world. Currently experiencing have been acting in the most your disapproval. This month, you you will be doing some serious visceral reactions to what people peculiar fashion. This madness will be uncharacteristically direct analysing as you work towards say, you are finding even the is temporary, but you will have a clearer idea, about expressing frustration with people who are deciding whether to stay on board or jump ship most basic communication extremely challenging. down the road, of who can really be trusted. A reluctant to think for themselves. You could find when it comes to an important aspect of your life. Although you are no shrinking violet, a local scandal major business deal promises to be significantly yourself attracted to a life in politics or to community Too bad that others will probably refuse to listen to is about to shock you to the core – the vicar and the successful. work. your words of wisdom. milkmaid sort of thing.

LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21) AQUARIUS (JAN 20 - FEB 18) TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) This month, a close friend will This month, the spotlight is on You can be just as pragmatic Keep a closer eye on finances! make a surprise announcement financial stability and planning for as everyone else, but your brain You have been paying for that leaves you reeling. You the future. You have to admit you grows weary when things are too something others have been will subsequently start thinking are rather wonderful at making practical and result-oriented. This getting free of charge. Completely about your life and what money work for you. Lately you month, you must kick the status focused on the job at hand, you you could do to exploit your wonderful well of have been surprisingly optimistic, cheerful and easy quo where it hurts and shake things up a bit. Reveal have probably been neglecting your own needs, creativity. You have been dealing with facts, to get along with. After a lot of introspection, you your innately contrary nature by taking up some including your health. The good news is that you figures and mundane junk for too long. have discovered that you are not half bad after all. outlandish hobby – doorknob collecting, perhaps. are feeling more self-confident – and attractive.

VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) PISCES (FEB 19 - MAR 19) Written by Kerwin McLeister This month, you will be forced Relationships are undergoing People around you have been The Krakow Post’s astrology to choose between doing what major changes. For better or slacking of a bit, leaving you with column is for entertainment is expected and doing what you worse, you will be finally getting the lion’s share of work. If there purposes only, and the Post is not responsible for any conse- want – not an easy challenge. the lowdown on what people think is any possibility of travel, grab quences incurred as a result of Your professional life is about to of you. Despite being a strange it. Something new, weird and this column. shift in a dramatic, life-changing manner. You’re a bundle of contradictions, you have other people’s wonderful awaits you in foreign climes. By the way, wiz at organisation, management and marketing, interests at heart. If you are bored, throw some take a look around the house: you could well find so you really should be out in the world of business words together, or toss some paint on the wall: you some long-forgotten money in the most unlikely making a major splash. could come up with something oddly appealing. place. Modern University with rich Tales from the chalkface tradition What a Performance! Chris Riley

Whatever the season, somewhere there’s The amount of angst that goes into an business of speaking. Even better is the a teacher and her students expending event that will always be ‘alright on the sense of working together with lots of huge amounts of energy and enthusiasm night’ seems inversely proportional to others towards a common goal, though it on a school play or concert. Concerts are the actual quality of the performance. can be difficult to remember these lofty not just for Christmas, and the climax Someone will inevitably drop out. This aims when the leading lady is insisting of the school year usually involves a is usually a main part, and the reason she can’t wear blue, even though it’s the Full time and part time performance of some kind. It’s a fun can be anything from illness to tantrums only costume available in her size, the Bachelor ’s and Master ’s studies event – at least it’s to be hoped so, even if but, whatever it is, a full-blown crisis leading man has measles, and at least Postgraduate studies, most of the fun comes from looking back will ensue and a replacement eventually three of the chorus are always late or, including MBA Doctoral studies on a job well done (or at least, done). found. better yet, appear to have forgotten that For students older than seven or eight, it Being in a play is the best language rehearsals exist. Majors dElivErEd in English: will probably be something that stays with practice anyone could ever have, because Nothing else in the world exists in the them forever, though at the time they’ll what’s coming out of your mouth is only week before a performance, and such BSc, Msc International Business BSc Corporate Finance and Accounting be too busy worrying about learning lines one of half a dozen things an actor has things as lessons or examinations become BSc Applied Informatics or hoping their costumes suit them to to think of – taking the pressure off the mere obstructions to the all-consuming Doctoral Studies in Economics know that. I certainly remember my own event. Woe betide anyone who might Finance and Management efforts, mostly with fondness and not too object to rehearsals at any time of day much embarrassment, but I belong to (or night). Other things matter? What CUE comprises four faculties offering 17 majors : the fortunate generation that never had nonsense! . Faculty of Economics and International Rela- its acting or singing recorded so that it A sense of humour and a sense of tions could be played back to them in years proportion are definitely needed if . Faculty of Finance to come, usually on occasions when it’s everyone, including the audience, is to . Faculty of Commodity Science . Faculty of Management least welcome. Not so today – now when enjoy the show. It really does help to there’s a school concert, there’ll be a smile at the disasters and, above all, to www.uek.krakow.pl camera running. I look at the photos of remember that mistakes are opportunities myself in long dress and wig playing the for learning rather than travesties of part of some old lady (type casting exists artistic expression. It is, after all, a school everywhere) and thank my lucky stars the concert not a Broadway show. picture isn’t moving. Marvellous, darlings, marvellous! www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | June 2012 9

Set by KC CRYPTIC CROSSWORD ACROSS DOWN 1, 4 PL – Go on, Poland! (2, 4, 6) 1 Haul aboard, Smaug first – they’re monsters 1 2 3 3 4 5 6 4 See 1ac (7) 7 Angry ape is brown (5) 7 8 2 Dance around on, eg, Krakow riverbank 11 Lag behind student on volume (6) attraction (7) 12 State of 3d? (6) 9 10 3 We are American first (1,1) 13 Musical about kiss? (4) 4 Dad got ap confused (2) 11 12 15 PL (5) – See 28ac 5 PL (7) – See 6d 18 Snack said to be eight times 18 (4) 6 British driver is illegally placed? (7)

19 Aim to give her a ring (4) 8 PL (6) – See 22ac 20 About part of a net? (4) 9, 10d Imperial dance game (8) 22 Oddly, chump gets trophy (3) 10 See 9d 24 Extinct bird in burger from Mikołajska outlet 13 14 15 16 17 18 14 PL (3) – See 19ac at first (3) 16 Raised after smoke (5) 25 But about the bath… (3) 17 See 21ac 27 Stretch back and forth (3) 18 Just a little, but enough to control, eg, 19 20 21 28 On the spot fine? (7) Pegasus? (3) 29 Eg 4d initially 23d (1,1,1) 19 Stare fixedly at regal turn (5)

30 PL (4, 4, 5) – 13 ac for Poland? 21, 17d PL (5,5) – See 9d, 10d 22 Beliefs of company swallowing debt (5) 22 23 24 25 26 23 4d burst, eg 2d (3) 25 Play with poodle? (3) 26 Cilla leads and Jack follows when in credit 27 28 29 (5)

30

CONFUSED? SOLUTIONS

A cryptic crossword is a series of puzzles, which must be solved before you can complete the grid. For

example, the clue for 7a is ‘Angry ape is brown’. The word ‘angry’ hints at an anagram, so mix the letters Black 26 Toy 25 Pop 23 Credo 22 Piłka 21 Glare 19 Bit

of ‘ape is’ to arrive at the solution – ‘sepia’ 18 Nożna 17 Alarm 16 Gol 14 Ball 10 Foot 9 Puchar 8 Offside 6 Spalony 5 Pa 4 US 3 Balloon 2 Dragons 1

Special instructions DOWN The answers to clues marked ‘PL’ are Polish words – which correspond to the English answers to the Spoko Euro Koko 30 AKA 29 Penalty 28 Eke 27 Tub 25 Moa clues indicated. The exceptions are 1,4, and 30ac, which are partially clued in their own right. Your goal is

to find the theme that links the Polish words. 24 Cup 22 Trap 20 Goal 19 Byte 18 Karny 15 Song 13 Dallas 12 Gallon 11 Sepia 7 Polsko 4 Boju Do 1 ACROSS

WRITTEN IN STONE Russian forces, but there was still the question of ammunition. Or rather, the lack of it. What the city needed was a miracle. Divine intervention: As he passed a statue of the Madonna, Oracewicz rubbed one of his buttons on TH Krakow Opera Summer Festival it and uttered a prayer, asking the Holy Mother to 16 intervene. With no bullets to hand, he was forced to 15.06. – 5.07. 2012 use the button as a bullet. From the city wall he fired into the mass of Russian troops – and hit Panin in the eye, killing him and thus saving Krakow, for the O  E time being, at least.  W H The stuff of legends: That, in any case, is the story, and the reason for the plaque. In truth, there is some dispute over whether Panin was In Brief: It’s hero time. A plaque at the Barbican commanding the Russian troops, or whether it was records how one man saved Krakow with a button actually Oracewicz’s button bullet that killed him. from his coat. Nevertheless, there is a plaque at the Barbican What’s it for? On June 22, 1768, the Russians marking the moment and, when it comes to heroes, * were quite literally at the gate. Under the command why let the facts get in the way of a good story? of General Ivan Panin, the invading army had Bookend biography: Marcin Oracewicz, Born, c. * reached Krakow and was set to break through the 1720, Spisz. Died c. 1789, Krakow.

Florian Gate. To make matters worse, ammunition MARIUSZ KWIECIEŃ (MET) featuring was running out… the city looked destined to fall. * Cometh the Hour: Anyone who knows anything about Polish history will know that this is not a country to lie down and die. On this occasion, one man in particular was to seize the glory. His name

was Marcin Oracewicz, who moved to Krakow Grand Pas...! Gala Ballet from Spisz, and became a citizen in 1745. When  J

the Russians attacked, Oracewicz was heading Opera Arias World towards the Barbican, determined to help defend Great Choir of Great Operas Choir of Great Great his adopted home.  J A million to one chance: The problem faced by  J Oracewicz, and for his comrades in arms, was that *In case of adverse weather conditions, the event will be relocated Krakow’s defences were already creaking. Not only www.opera.krakow.pl to the Main Stage of the Krakow Opera. were the Cracovians heavily outnumbered by the 10 Krakow Post | June 2012 www.krakowpost.com SPORT SPORT IN BRIEF Euros a major challenge for Poland Tenth career title for Agnieszka Radwańska Agnieszka Radwańska won the Brussels Open by defeating Romania’s Simona Halep in the final (7–5, 6–0) for her 10th singles title on the WTA Tour, and only her second on clay. Radwańska had en- tered the event as the top seed as many of the world’s other top players opted to rest before the start of the French Open. Radwańska swept through her five match- es without dropping a set.

Veteran Arkadiusz Głowacki comes home to Wisła Veteran defender Arkadiusz Głowacki has re-joined Wisła Krakow after a two-year stint with Trabzonspor in Turkey. A for- mer team captain and contributor to six league championships, Głowacki returns hoping to bring the club back to promi- nence after a season in which the White Star finished 7th in the Ekstraklasa table. The 33-year old has signed a contract for the next two seasons. Key Poland players Robert Lewandowski (no. 09) and Jakub Błaszczykowski (no. 16) – Photos: Krzysztof Jakub Porębski

The unknown: that’s really all there roster, eight are currently under contract team, forward Paweł Brożek, midfielder Cracovia relegated, but retain their is to fear just days before what is sure with clubs in the German Bundesliga. Dariusz Dudka and the aforementioned manager After ending the season at the bottom of to be a defining moment in Poland’s Two-time defending league champions Błaszczykowski all spent time with Wisła the league table, it is still unclear which sporting history. After six years of frantic Borussia Dortmund have contributed earlier in their careers. players Cracovia will take into the Polish construction and meticulous planning for three players to the Polish team: captain After Smuda had selected the provisional Liga 1, though manager Tomasz Kafar- Euro 2012, all the goodwill and enthusiasm Jakub Błaszczykowski, prolific scorer squad, the team began training in Austria ski’s job is safe. Despite accruing only of people across the country could unravel Robert Lewandowski and defender Łukasz and played friendlies against Latvia and six points in his ten matches at the helm, in an instant. Poland’s Group A opponents Piszczek. All three of them are likely to Slovakia in Klagenfurt, which both ended Cracovia management has decided to give the former Lechia manager an opportuni- – Greece, Russia and the Czech Republic – make the starting lineup. At the age of 26, 1–0 to Poland’s Biało-Czerwoni. The Poles ty to develop next season’s squad after he are certainly beatable, but no one is really Błaszczykowski is the second youngest played sloppily against Latvia, but Smuda took over for Dariusz Pasieka last March as certain what kind of performance we will captain in the tournament after France’s called on several inexperienced players an emergency replacement. see out of the men in white and red who Hugo Lloris. ‘Kuba’ missed the entire while resting the star Borussia trio. Taking will take to the pitch on June 8. 2008 season because of a hamstring injury advantage of the opportunity, Artur No Olympics for women’s volleyball Poland enters the tournament with a sustained days before the tournament, but Sobiech scored a goal in just his fourth The Polish women’s volleyball team fell FIFA ranking of 65, by far the worst in now he has the task of holding the Poles international appearance. French-born short of qualifying for this summer’s games the tournament, but the national team together on the pitch. defender Damien Perquis, who received in London after being swept by Turkey in has made clear strides since 2009 when The team’s success or failure will depend his Polish passport only last September, the final of a ‘last chance’ tournament they were embarrassed in World Cup heavily on Lewandowski, who will have to also notched up his first international in Ankara. The Poles won consecutive qualifying. Yet that was the last time that be the offensive catalyst in Poland’s 4-2-3- goal in the 30th minute against Slovakia. matches against Holland, Russia, Serbia and Germany before meeting the hosts in Poland played in any real competitive 1 formation. He emerged as Poland’s main After a first half of effective attacking play the final. Poland finished in 9th place at matches, so just how this team will offensive threat in 2010 while leading featuring most of Poland’s regulars, Smuda the 2008 Olympics in Beijing. This is the respond to the pressure of co-hosting a Lech Poznań to the Ekstraklasa title. Since experimented with a slew of substitutions Turkish team’s debut at the games. major tournament is a big unknown. his move to Dortmund, Lewandowski has in the second half. More than in years past, manager only continued to improve, as evidenced The team next faces lightweight Andorra Franciszek Smuda has called on talent by an emphatic three-goal performance for a final tune-up in Warsaw ahead of Euro from foreign leagues. On the final 23-man against Bayern Munich in the German 2012’s opening match between Poland Cup final, which Borussia won 5–2. and Greece on June 8. The visitors will be Arsenal’s Wojciech Szczęsny is the clear hungry for redemption. After becoming choice in goal, and at 22 he is the youngest shock winners of Euro 2004, Greece fell powered by starting keeper in the tournament. back to earth, finishing last of the 16 teams FREE Questions remain about the backup spot in the most recent championship. where Jagiellonia Białystok’s Grzegorz On June 12, Poland will remain in Local life Sandomierski will replace Łukasz Warsaw to take on Russia, who are iphone app Fabiański due to a shoulder injury suffered slight favourites in the group despite key during training that will keep him out for injuries in their defence, even according tournament entirely. to manager Smuda: “I think all four teams The only Krakow-born player on the (in the group) have a chance, but Russia The Local Life app covers squad is defender Marcin Wasilewski, are the favourites.” the following great cities... who began his career in the Hutnik Poland concludes group play against the Barcelona, Berlin, Bratislava, Budapest, youth system and now plays for Belgian Czech Republic on June 16 in Wrocław. Eindhoven, Gdansk, Krakow, Ljubljana, Minsk, Moscow, champions Anderlecht. At 31, he is the Whether or not the Polish team sees any Poznan, Prague, Riga, So a, St Petersburg, Tallinn, Vienna, Vilnius, Warsaw, Wroclaw, Zagreb & Zakopane. elder statesman of the Polish side. Though matches beyond that, we will know soon more great destinations on the way! no current players from any of Krakow’s enough. clubs are represented in the national James C Muus www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | June 2012 11

Euros a major challenge for Poland With the Accent School of Polish kibicować verb (ja kibicuję, ty kibicujesz) wianki noun, plural to cheer for someone wreaths, garlands; the Midsummer festival

Komu kibicujesz w czasie Euro 2012? W czerwcu Kraków zaprasza na “Wianki”! Who are you cheering for during Euro 2012? In June Kraków invites everyone to ‘Wianki’ – the Festival of Wreaths.

wyremontowany adj. słonecznie adv. renovated sunny Wiele obiektów zostało wyremontowanych na Euro 2012. Kiedy jest słonecznie, turyści chętniej zwiedzają miasto. Many facilities have been renovated for Euro 2012. When it is sunny, tourists are more willing to go sightseeing in the city.

A little bit of Polish JEST KOLOROWO! A TY?

biały Jaki kolor ma... NIEBIESKI żółty - banan? fioletowy czerwony czarny brązowy szary - niebo? różowy

- mleko? pomarańczowy

ZIELONY © by M. Gałęziowska & Accent School of Polish & Accent School M. Gałęziowska © by żółty kwiat (m) / żółta sukienka (ż) / żółte słońce (n)

For more Polish visit www.polishforforeigners.com! New Polish courses starting in June at Accent School of Polish!

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