1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 PageCouv1
SEINE VALLEY - NORMANDY The Magazine
The Normandy International Impressionist Festival Blinded by the light Dreaming Seine Science parade Lifestyle Celebrating the region’s 1100th birthday Savour the flavour Riverside dining Out and About Green living Edition 2011 - 2012 €5 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 PageCouv2 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page1
SEINE VALLEY - NORMANDY The Magazine
Contents
The Normandy International Impressionist Festival 5 Normandy rediscovered 13 The Rouen school 16 Contemporary art Dreaming 23 Seine River Science 26 The ninth art 30 Off the peg 32 Fashion talk 33 Contemporary art Lifestyle 39 Celebrating 1100 years of Normandy 43 The monastic way of life: a Normandy tradition rediscovered 49 Rouen’s Jewish community Savour the flavour 55 Rouen gourmet capital 63 So many delightful places to stay 73 Fine dining in the CREA 82 A well-dressed table Out and about 85 Urban walkways 87 Bodies beautiful 88 Memorabilia museum 91 Golf 92 Take time to enjoy… 95 Photo story 99 Events Calendar 100 Addresses
1 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page2 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page3
Forward
Dear readers,
The summer of 2010 will be remembered for the resounding success of the region’s first international Impressionist festival. Hundreds of different events were held and over a million visitors came to enjoy them and to join in the excitement that the festival created throughout the region. The CREA, our community of communities, was right at the heart of the event and we hosted a stunning exhibition ‘A city for Impressionists: Monet, Pissarro and Gauguin in Rouen’ in the Rouen Fine Arts Museum. This was a first, as never before have so many Impressionist masterpieces been on show together here in the place where Impressionism was born. We saw these great works hanging sometimes a stone’s throw away from the very view and place that inspired them here in Rouen. Sadly, those impressions of our city have now been returned to the walls of museums and galleries in New York, Washington, Los Angeles, Madrid and Yamagata, Japan… but I know that they are best ambassadors that a large community area like ours could possibly have. It is thanks to events like the Normandy Impressionist Festival, the Armada or this year’s celebrations to mark the 1100th anniversary of the signing of the treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte and the creation of the dukedom of Normandy that the CREA seeks to reinforce our regional identity and ensure the conservation of our rich natural and cultural heritage. This year we hope that not only Rouen, but the whole community, will be awarded the prestigious ‘centre of art and history’ tourist quality label and over the following pages you will meet the women and men whose dedication ensures the preservation of our extraordinary heritage and its transmission to the generations to come.
With my best wishes,
Laurent FABIUS President of the Rouen Elbeuf Austreberthe Community Council (CREA) Former Prime Minister Member of Parliament for Seine-Maritime
3 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page4
Regional transport special offers
Personalised travel advice
Information available direct on to your mobile
Make the most of your region Let the train take the strain Get out and about with our special offers 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page5
The Normandy impressionist Festival Normandy rediscovered
Summer 2010: In the city of Rouen and throughout the region of its birth Impressionism was the word on everybody’s lips - we drank, ate and sang Impressionism. In every town in Normandy and everywhere you looked - from the rich green grass under clear blue skies to the dense forests and swir- ling rivers - it was Impressionism that shaped the face of the summer and brought a million visitors to our shores. This time last year it was Rouen that was the capital of the world’s cultural year - as it will be again in 2013!
5 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page6
Visitors came in their thousands to enjoy this first festival (the next one will take place just after the departure of the tall ships of Rouen’s Armada’. Each and every one of them was caught up and bewitched by the charm, the colours and the freshness of this vibrant and new- look Normandy. Between June and September 2010, over one million people came to pay homage to the movement. Some were just curious and some were passionate Impressionist fans yet everyone found that there was more here than just the exhibition. In those hazy lazy days of summer they wandered with delight through galleries filled with contemporary art to small workshops where local arts and regional crafts were rediscovered. They enjoyed both the traditional and creative cuisine served in our restaurants and, helped by our tourism professionals, uncovered the rich delights of our historic city in all its glory. Rouen, capital of Normandy, once an endless source of inspiration to Monet, Pissarro, Millet, Boudin and Gauguin, offers some of the most extensive architectural and historic heritage in France. Let’s look back at the success of this our first Normandy Impressionist Festival…
« Eleven of Monet’s cathedral paintings are on view at the Rouen Fine Arts Museum. » NPR (United States), July 2, 2010 "Sur les pas d'Albert Lebourg", La Bouille
6 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page7
Dances and music, picnics, son et lumière light shows, fairs, swimming parties, painting lessons, walks along the Seine … the Normandy Impressionist Festival takes us back to the heady days of the 19th century and sunny afternoons by the river - scenes straight out of one of their masterpieces.
‘Et si vous passiez vos vacances en Normandie ? Une destination incontournable cet été.’ ljdd.fr (France), June 6, 2010
7 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page8
« Yet for all this summer’s special effects and shows, one of the joys of coming here is in simply seeking out the Impressionist haunts. And there are plenty to choose from. » The Independent (UK), August 21, 2010
The Normandy Impressionist Festival’s focal exhibition ‘A city for Impressionists: Monet, Pissarro and Gauguin in Rouen’ welcomed 238,369 visitors – doing as well as the major Picasso exhibition in London’s National Gallery in 2009. The Rouen Fine Arts Museum which has the largest collection of Impressionist paintings in France outside Paris (the Depeaux collection) is now the region’s number 1 art museum for visitor numbers.
「この街が、いかに多くの画家をひきつけた かを検証する試みだ。」 Sankei Express (Japan), July 18, 2010
Claude Monet, Vue générale de Rouen, 1892, détail © Catherine Lancien, Carole Loisel, Musées de la Ville de Rouen. 8 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:54 Page9
CIC NW reception during ‘the cathedral of Monet’ exposition with the kind of for authorisation of the CIC NW 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page10
‘Événement culturel de l’été en France’ Le Soir (Belgium), June 15, 2010.
World record! On June 5, 2010, 1,250 people - all wearing the sort of boaters so often seen in the paintings of the Impressionists - got together in front of Rouen Town Hall to recreate one of Monet’s cathedral series paintings (‘Cathédrale de Rouen, effet de soleil, fin de journée’, 1892-94). Everyone was given a panel with an extract from the canvas to hold up in the air and so reproduce the painting which was rechristened for the occasion ‘Monet from the sky’. The painting measured 600 square meters when it was laid out on the ground and entered the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest living Impressionist painting ever!
« Es ist die Stadt der Kunste. » Die Zeit (Allemagne), July 22, 2010
101010 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page11
A dozen or so of the exclusive Club des Toques chefs, (a toque is a chef’s tall hat) of the Rouen Seine valley area created a variety of dishes based on Claude Monet's notebooks especially for the festival. Monet’s celebrated notebooks contain notes and the recipes that the gourmet painter served to his guests when they visited him at his home in Giverny. ‘Monet was not a cook himself and did not invent any dishes – he was just happy to serve up other people’s recipes cooked to perfection,’ says Claire Joyes in her work devoted to Monet and his notebooks. The famous French chef Joël Robuchon wrote the foreword to the book and this is what he says: ‘I was pleasantly surprised when I read Monet’s notes as he created a true culinary palette, lots of common sense remarks resulting in delicious traditional cuisine. Some of the recipes are very straightforward while others are complex, bordering on the realms of the professional.’ *Monet’s cookery notes, preface by Joël Robuchon, by Claire Joyes, photography Jean-Bernard Naudin. Ed. Chêne.
‘L’idée du festival Normandie impressionniste a ainsi suscité un véritable engouement. Avant même son ouverture, des journalistes anglais, américains, japonais et même australiens ont prévenu de leur venue.’ lexpress.fr (France), June 3, 2010 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page12
‘De grillige Normandische hemel, de lichtgevende oevers en de groene valleien dienden immers als ware muze voor de impressionisten.’ Metro (Netherlands), July 27, 2010
12 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page13
Robert Antoine Pinchon, Le Pont aux Anglais, 1900-01 © Catherine Lancien, Carole Loisel, Musées de la Ville de Rouen.
The Rouen school bought back into the limelight
François Lespinasse, gallery owner The Rouen school remained unknown to the and member of the Festival’s advi- public at large for years or was classed as a small sory committee, is an authority on the Rouen school. Connoisseur provincial offshoot in the shadow of the and specialist of this neo-impres- Impressionist masters. sionist movement that spans two The exhibition ‘A city for Impressionists: Monet, generations of artists from Rouen, Pissarro and Gauguin in Rouen’ has brought the he is the author of many works Rouen school back into the public eye. The major about the school including ‘Rouen, a painter’s paradise’ (2003) and painters of the Rouen school are now seen as ‘The diary of Rouen School’ (2006) being artists of true value who played an and has also made many contribu- important role in the success story that is tions to exhibition catalogues. Impressionism.
How do you feel about the title gi- article by Arsène Alexandre in the Le ven to this movement and what Figaro on December 22, 1902. Fran- about the use of the word ‘school’. çois Depeaux had asked him to write Is it appropriate? a piece about the Joseph Delattre exhi- François Lespinasse: The name does bition that was on show in the famous not bother me – it first appeared in an Durand-Ruel gallery. ➞
13 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page14
Charles Frechon, Rouen depuis la rive gauche, 1900-01, Collection particulière, © Jean-François Lange work in its own right. All we can say is thank you, thank you, to all the or- ganisers, thank you to Laurent Sa- lomé who asked me to join the advi- sory committee. It was due to the festival that we can say once and for all that the artists coming after An- grand, Delattre, Frechon, Lemaitre and Lebourg were all at work from 1880 and 1900, not forgetting, of course, Léon Jules Lemaitre who gai- ned a scholarship from the town of Rouen from 1873 to 1879 to study at the Paris school of fine arts and who told his friends in Rouen all about the new things happening in Paris which was in fact the beginnings of the Im- pressionist movement. He convinced them of the importance of the new style and it cost him his grant. One of his paintings, a very fine one, was part of the exhibition and it was very popular with visitors. Charles Angrand also had a picture in the exhibition. Only one, but what a painting! ‘Le pont de pierre’ from 1881 is a nocturne, with very Rouen sort of feel, depicting as it does both the Cathedral and Saint-Maclou church. Angrand painted less than a hundred canvases but this one is a Arsène Alexandre does not say exactly For a long time these painters were, true masterpiece. which artists are part of the school, mistakenly, considered to be no- Charles Frechon has a whole room but Depeaux himself had the text thing more than hangers on of the dedicated to his work. After his redis- written for a pamphlet for an exhibi- Impressionist movement. Do you covery in 2008, this painter has be- tion held in Swansea, Wales, in June think that the record was put come an integral part of the mu- and July and had it sent to Georges straight during the international seum’s display. He has come home, Dubosc. The pamphlet was called: Normandy Impressionist event? one could say! Paul Durand-Ruel, the ‘The painters and wrought iron wor- François Lespinasse: Oh yes! The great Impressionist dealer bought Fre- kers of the Rouen School’ and in it exhibition with the fabulous title and chon’s work as early as 1894 and in we find such well-known names as subject ‘Rouen, capital of Impressio- 1909, thanks to François Depeaux, Lebourg, Frechon, Delattre, Cou- nism’ was so long in coming and so his work was regularly exposed. It all chaux, Pinchon, Guilbert, Mascart, eagerly anticipated and was a resoun- takes time and a good deal of pa- Boutigny, Buron, Hénocque, Vau- ding success and rightly so! The fi- tience is required. mousse, Gaston de la Queriere, Sa- gures speak for themselves and the Joseph Delattre was also on display muel Frère, Madame Noèmie Allard- catalogue has become a reference and rightly so. A retrospective of his Frère and so on. Now this list is open to question - in a work dating from 1980 (30 years before the Normandy Impressionist Festival) 29 artists were considered as being part of the school and they were all born between 1849, the year in which Lebourg was born, and 1898, the year of Bordes’ birth. So you see it is very difficult to decide exactly who should be on the list – there are always long long discussions and arguments about it which seem to me to be a bit of a waste of time as for the artists the most important thing is that we know and recognize their work. That seems to me to be what really matters.
Charles Frechon, Rouen, île Lacroix, cours la Reine © Catherine Lancien, Carole Loisel, Musées de la Ville de Rouen.
14 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page15
art would go a long way to a better understanding and diffusion of his work. One could only be pleased to see that an often forgotten artist, Henri Vignet, was also shown. And the painting that was such a fitting fi- nale was a canvas by Robert Antoine Pinchon. He has not quite made it to the top yet but his extravagant use of colour is such that his place in the exhibition should be a decisive step towards a deserved reputation and recognition. As for Albert Lebourg, who himself twice exhibited alongside the Impres- sionist group in 1879 and again in 1880, he was an absolute must and his work fitted in so easily and so mea- ningfully into the overall exhibition.
Are these painters fetching more in the art market now? François Lespinasse: This is not a worry – you know we are going through a difficult period, light years away from the good old days of the 80s and 90s, but what I can tell you is that a good canvas has always got buyers. At the moment not many qua- lity pictures are coming up for sale. Let’s imagine that Charles Angrand’s ‘Un coin de ferme’ came up for sale. This picture, painted during the sum- mer of 1886, explored the division of colour tone and was first hung during the Rouen city exhibition of that same year. However, we do not know where it is at the moment - so if it came on the market it would certainly cause a storm of interest!
Have you got a favourite amongst all the painters you have told us about? François Lespinasse: I would proba- bly say Charles Angrand, he came to the fore after the 1976 exhibition in Dieppe which was organised to cele- brate the 50th anniversary of his death. In 1988 his letters and diaries were published which gave me a glimpse of the man and the artist and I feel that I got to know him better. But on the other hand the ‘Three Musketeers’ [Charles Angrand, Jo- seph Delattre, Charles Frechon, Léon-Jules Lemaitre] are also firm fa- vourites and Pinchon too. And I would have to include Albert Le- bourg. I am putting together his pa- pers, letters, diaries etc. So far I have managed to find 820 letters and he is definitely one of the artists that I really like.
Léon Jules Lemaître, La Rue du Gros-Horloge © Catherine Lancien, Carole Loisel, Musées de la Ville de Rouen. 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page16
Because art is popular! With the ‘Rouen impressionnée’ part of the festival, the Normandy capital emphasised the resolutely modern element of the international event. Yet in a way this was how Rouen has always been linked with art. In the second half of the 19th century, when the Impressionists came to Rouen and painted in the open air, that was a most decidedly modern turn of events. So when the city put on displays providing open air art and installations for everyone throughout the city it was just revisiting a local tradition… nder summer skies the city’s central river crossing, are trying to say and what message you want to get across. U the Boieldieu bridge, was given a new look. 110 That is why we devote 20% of our budget to PR.’ tonnes of wood struts - some painted a bright ‘Some modern art just seems totally gratuitous and orange, others natural - arched above the normal level people can’t understand it or get anything out of it – it of the bridge. can come across as being above most ordinary people’s The bridge was closed to traffic to give full impact to heads and that is often how modern art is categorised.’ the structure as it spanned the solid structure of the For Richard Turcot, seeing modern art in these terms bridge beneath. Finally, the russet-coloured struts is to tackle the problem from the wrong way round. ‘If came down like the leaves in the first days of the people can’t go towards art then it is art that has to come autumn, returning the bridge once more to the busy to them, in the streets where they live. For example, when traffic but leaving wonderful memories of the shapes I was a kid popular cinema was what we saw. Today we and colours of what became an emblem of the festival. have given that genre a name and categorised it. This is The installation was the work of Belgian artist Arne how personal culture comes about. It is what people see Quinze and the work entitled ‘Camille’ paid tribute to and experience in their daily lives, in their personal envi- Camille Pissarro (who himself painted the bridge that ronment, indeed all around them.’ had been on that same site during his visits to Rouen in 1883 and 1896). The work became the visible iden- Art, key element in Rouen’s cultural identity tity and symbol of the summer cultural programme CQFD: ‘By installing something like Camille in the which has now been given the name ‘Rouen impres- middle of Rouen for everyone to see and experience, sionné’e ‘Surprising Rouen’. the city made a huge step to bring modern art out into the realm of both the citizens of Rouen and of summer Art, the great debate visitors. Otherwise art is something that tends to stay Arne Quinze’s installation got people talking – some behind the closed doors of the seriously rich. I am an rejected it completely and others were enthusiastic. ardent defender of the notion of popular culture,’ explains ‘This sort of work gets a reaction. People either love it or Turcot. ‘Someone’s path of cultural exploration begins hate it and we had never had something as eye-catching with enjoyment and the wish to discover and experience. and surprising on show here in Rouen before,’ says It is these feelings that our policy is trying to optimise…’ Richard Turcot, deputy chief of staff at Rouen city hall. To achieve this the city of Rouen has decided to hold ‘People came to see the installation and then stood there a modern art festival every year. ‘Every other year,’ looking at it and discussing it. It definitely go people tal- explains Richard Turcot, ‘we plan to put up an installa- king about modern art.’ tion as part of the Rouen Impressionist event which will But this sort of policy has to be well thought out and become a permanent display for the public to enjoy.’ The organised if you want to be constructive, he adds. ‘You ideas is not just to have the work of artists of interna- have to make sure that people understand what it is you tional renown leaving their mark on the city.
16 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page17
‘The 2011 event has landscape and interior design as its Richard Turcot. ‘In real terms the Normandy theme so many local artists will have a chance to express International Impressionist Festival and the ‘Rouen their vision of their personal environment.’ impressionnée’ event brought the region publicity worth The centre of Rouen has the largest concentration of more than 4 million euros in the first 9 months of 2010.’ historical monuments of any town in France and the In other words, the economic impact of art is real and town hall’s policy will ensure that the dialogue between not virtual. living artists and contemporary art is creatively and successfully juxtaposed with this environment steeped in history. ‘Our cultural policy here in Rouen aims to link today’s art with our heritage.’ Such discussions are always heated and this one will be no exception especially as it will also have an undoub- ted effect on the local economy. ‘Our cultural identity is the basis for our economic momentum,’ explains
17 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page18
Art in every corner of the city Arne Quinze’s ‘Camille’ was the most visible and eye-catching work to come out of the ‘Rouen impressionnée’ 2010 yet the same artist also had an exhibition in the nave of the Saint-Ouen abbey church. On display were ‘Les Jardins’ (The gardens), a collection of 21 pictures in homage to Monet’s water lily series. But we should not forget all the other works and installations by architects and visual artists which were perhaps on a smaller scale, situated in less obvious places and less flamboyant but which The Seine fringe were all just as surprising and creative. The Festival gave visitors another way to get to know the City through the ‘De[s]rive[s]’ installation created by the ‘Echelle inconnue’ group. The artists of Coming up for air the group buried collections of nails into Japanese artist Shigeko Hirakawa’s the red tarmac along the promenade. environmental installation in Rouen’s The nail heads were decorated with 2 Botanical Gardens consisted of four dimensional bar codes consisting of symbolic molecules of oxygen drawn raised black and white dots and by onto the lawns, accompanied by seven clicking on the codes using a mobile transparent floating balls and 5,000 phone, the passer-by was linked to a many-coloured, light-sensitive plastic website with flashed up snippets from discs creating a breezy ‘call to the winds’ locals giving a glimpse of life on the river which was the artist’s way to get us to bank and the inside story on what it is reflect on the lightness of being and our like to live and work on the river Seine. relationship with our surroundings. And Mount Fuji Young Rouen photographer François Cavelier bought back from his trip to Japan a series of views of the sacred mountain Mont Fuji or Fujisan as it is known there. The well-known image of the snow-capped peak is revisited and fills the viewer with something akin perhaps to those feelings and emotions felt by the Impressionists a hundred years Bee is for bank earlier when they discovered Ukiyo-e, or Visual artist and urban beekeeper Olivier Japanese woodcuts, the best exponent of Darné and the ‘Poetic Party’ team placed which was Hokusai, author of 36 views bee hives throughout the town so that of Mont Fuji. the summer of 2010 could bring forth sweetness from the urban jungle. The harvest, deposited in a honey bank, was Don’t be square… then withdrawn by the public in a Former management trainer Jérôme project that provoked reflection about Toq’r, placed a series of large white cubes planning a city environment and sharing in front of the Town Hall then covered resources. them with motifs in black paint. Over 1,500 people joined in, adding their own blobs, marks, doodles etc. to this interactive work.
18 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page19
Interview ‘Culture... a powerful level for development’
Former prime minister and president of the Rouen Elbeuf Austreberthe Community Council (the CREA) Laurent Fabius was the impetus behind the first Normandy Impressionist Festival of 2010. The next event is already programmed for 2013.
example, ‘The Seine at Sahurs, in Festival was not only a resounding the wind’ by Sisley. If you go down international success but also to the river today the view has ensured that the two regions of barely changed since he painted it Upper and Lower Normandy had to 120 years ago. The CREA is made work more closely together. Do up of such widely different towns - you see cultural events as a 45 of its 71 communities have potential vehicle for economic and fewer than 4,500 inhabitants. It is political development for the this great diversity that makes our greater region and if so, what region so attractive and gives us would be the role of the CREA in such a fantastic quality of life. such an agenda? Other major works in my collection Certainly, culture is without doubt would include Pissarro's Boieldieu an instrument for development. Bridge views as well as works from People sometimes try and make us the Rouen School such as choose between economic and Pinchon's 'The factories at Eauplet’ cultural development but I think which remind us of Rouen's that is not the way to look at it. The industrial heritage. Industry is not festival brought nearly one million only part of our history it is also visitors to the region to discover or one of the keys to the city's future, rediscover the link between this part so it is our clear duty today to build of France and the Impressionist You have recently published a the industry of tomorrow. movement. The festival was a book called 'Le Cabinet des douze' Finally, I would pick works that success both as a cultural event and in which you describe 12 iconic depict the CREA today and all the as factor contributing to the paintings that symbolise France. developments and facilities that we economic development of the Which works would you choose as are bringing to this area as part of region. those that best sum up the spirit of our renaissance. Such events are vital to symbolise the CREA? The first Normandy Impressionist the very essence of our region today. That is a difficult choice – there could be so many candidates. Alfred Sisley, La Seine à la Bouille, coup de vent Monet, I think, would be my first © Catherine Lancien, Carole Loisel, Musées de la Ville de Rouen. choice. His ‘View of Rouen’ captures the essence of the city even to this day, depicting its situation in this wide meander of the Seine and the light that is so key to this area. The painting is fascinating as it says so much, yet could almost be described as an unfinished work... More Monet I think, next, with some of his ‘cathedral series.’ I would choose the cathedral ‘On a grey day’ which is in the Rouen Fine Arts Museum. Clémenceau said that this painting ‘helps us to take a more incisive look at our environment and allows us a more finely tuned analysis of the world’. I would also go for another interpretation of the cathedral – the work by Turner, who had such an influence on the Impressionists and whose paintings show us the city of Rouen in all its XIX century splendour. Next I would choose pictures inspired by scenes from the ➞ countryside here in the CREA. For 19 1-IMPRESSIONNISTE 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:55 Page20
but also changed the way people the CREA, our policy to be They are the best way to bring the thought and their attitudes to life. optimistic and our aim is to set out advantages of the quality and way The world suddenly became less to solve problems and take the of life here to the fore and, for rigid, took on a lighter more fun initiative. those of us fortunate enough to live way of looking at itself and grew here, to take pride in the region. more confident in the future. Do The next festival will take place in you think that art can still do this 2013, the same year as the next The CREA was the driving force for us today and give us a more Rouen Armada. Then Normandy behind the festival initiative and it is positive picture of the future as will host the World Equestrian fair to say that the greater Rouen according to a recent BVA-Gallup Games in Caen in 2014. These area council is a natural candidate poll we see it with deep events will ensure that Normandy to be at the heart of any future pessimism? will be in the spotlight but we have economic development. We to make sure that they also The recent events that we have mustn't forget that the festival's contribute to lasting economic witnessed in the Arab world should success was thanks to the and cultural development of the remind us that history has a way of combined efforts of over a hundred region. What would you suggest? or so local authorities, actors from changing the course of events and doesn't always flag up the future. the region's five departments, There is no easy answer to that, but Things happen that we have not museums, art galleries, tourism what I would say is that there are offices, hotel owners, companies, predicted and history still takes us three basic prerequisites to lasting educational establishments, by surprise. The same can be said success: whatever we do has to be volunteers and local associations of art which has always shown us planned to last, we have to be and clubs which got together, the reality of world in which we live innovative and ambitious. The pooled ideas and made sure that but which can sometimes make us Armada has made a name for itself they formed a team with one goal change the way we understand the and over the years has helped the in mind. It just shows what can be world as well as suddenly opening city to develop a very positive done when we all pull together. up new ways to look at it, which image. The challenge that we face can be powerful catalyst and speed for the 2013 Normandy The end of the 19th century was up social change. Impressionist Festival is to make it marked by the Impressionist As for pessimism - the philosopher even better than the 2010 movement which not only Alain writes that pessimism is a celebration and to do that we will changed the way that people natural state of mind and that all have our part to play. It will painted and appreciated painting optimism is a deliberate choice. In require team spirit and an
20 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page21 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page22
Dreaming
« Il y a des couleurs qui restent dans les familles. Le père, le grand-père peignaient le bateau de la même manière. Ça reste dans la famille, il y a presque un copyright. On doit continuer, maintenir comme ça. Chaque famille a ses couleurs privilégiées, mais, en France, ça tourne souvent autour du noir, du bleu et du blanc. Parfois, du rouge, du orange… Ce sont des familles qui veulent que leurs bateaux sortent de l’ordinaire. […] Les couleurs sur les bateaux sont vraiment importantes parce que les mariniers aiment vraiment leur bateau. Ils veulent qu’il soit nickel et qu’on voit les couleurs. » * Un marinier (propos recueillis par le groupe rouennais Échelle inconnue pour le projet DE[S]RIVE[S], Rouen impressionnée)
22 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page23
Seine River Science A new place to go for the thinking man
The Rouen Elbeuf Austreberthe Community Council (the CREA) has recently opened two buildings dedicated to science and technology. Although the subject may appear a little highbrow in reality both ‘h2o’ in Rouen and the ‘Knowledge Factory’ (‘La Fabrique des savoirs)’ in Elbeuf are full of exhibitions and displays that aim to make science interesting and understandable to visitors. On top of this they are both excellent examples of how to renovate former industrial building, giving them a new lease of life.
t is a lovely day for walk with the family along the I quays. It is an easy airy stroll - not like the Armada years when the quays are heaving with the thousands of visitors that come to admire the Tall Ships come together from all over the world. Along the prom there are walkers, joggers and cyclists, downstream are the butterfly-shaped towers of the Flaubert Bridge and the busy shopping centre ‘Docks 76’. On the river, a cruise liner or two, half a dozen barges and, in the distance, some tugs. In fact this is a typical Seine river scene now that the right bank docks have been transformed. The river is quite at home in its new role of urban playground! The old dock warehouses, blackened with age and in disrepair, have been completely renovated and given an attractive brick exterior, reminding us of the golden age when the port was humming and stretched for miles, well into the centre of the city. Yesterday’s deserted hangars are today’s chic and smart cafes, restaurants, offices, sports halls – full of people and once again places in daily use.
h2o, much more than a drop in the ocean The people of Rouen have rediscovered their river and once again take as much pleasure from its swirling ➞
23 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page24
water as did the Impressionists in those heady days of the 19th century. Once again the river bank is a place where people go and so where better than the riverside for the CREA to put ‘h2o’, the aptly-named brand- new science discovery centre. ‘The name is partly because the centre is in the old hangar number 2,’ explains centre manager Brigitte Duval. ‘We added the H and the O, because water is one of the CREA’s major areas of expertise.’ The new centre is mainly hands-on with content readily accessible to all, with many interactive displays where visitors can make things happen by pulling handles, pressing buttons and taking part in experiments. ‘Everything we do,’ says Brigitte, ‘whether it is one of our temporary exhibitions or displays, our electronic games or shows combining art and science, they are all conceived with the same objective – making science accessible to all and understanding how it affects our daily lives.’ No stuffy scientific theory here, quite the reverse. It is not just the science that is accessible. The centre is free on the first Sunday and the third Wednesday of the month and other days the low cost entry fee means it is a great place for a family afternoon or as a place to test your scientific knowledge. So why not pay a visit to this new former site of wool and cloth maker Blin and turned scientific watering hole before or after a drink or a it into a modern cultural centre. The ‘Knowledge walk on the riverbank? Factory’ is an exciting project that regroups under the ‘h2o’ also organises a ‘facts snack’ for kids on sloping factory roofs Elbeuf’s Natural History Wednesday and Saturday afternoons. ‘They visit the Museum, the architectural and heritage service (the exhibition with a guide, take part in a hands-on CIAP) and the local archives department. ‘The river workshop and finish with a drink and a bun,’ explains Brigitte. What’s more this not the only place in Rouen Seine is what links the three elements of natural sciences, where you can give your brain a workout… archaeology and industrial heritage,’ says curator Nicolas Coutant. The Blin factory building which is The ‘Knowledge Factory’, science on-stream in the town centre had long been abandoned – a bit Elbeuf-sur-Seine nestles in one of the loveliest of the like the old portside warehouse No 2 which is now river’s bends. Once a busy textile town, Elbeuf has the new ‘h2o’ centre. Both are excellent examples of made good use of the industrial architecture that bears what can be done to transform old buildings and not witness to those bygone days. This heritage that just conserve them as architectural artefacts but make means that Elbeuf is member for the prestigious them come alive and play a useful role in the daily life ‘centre of art and history’ label. Recently the CREA of the town once more. has restored one of the temples of industry – the
24 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page25
‘We used Archidev for this project as we had already worked with them on the reconstruction of the Elbeuf Circus and Performing Arts Project,’ adds Nicolas Coutant. ‘What we have tried to do in the ‘Knowledge Factory’ is not just preserve the building and the old machinery but try to recreate what it was like to live and work in the town.’ This task was given to Yves Kneusé who has done a splendid job of putting the 1,500 objects on display into context and making sure that they take us back into Elbeuf’s industrial past. This project is a fine example of how the past need not be preserved in dull and stuffy collections but how it can come to life again and enrich our knowledge and kindle our interest in what has gone before.
Rouen, a secret science fan…… Rouen is rarely associated with scientific discoveries or expertise but if you think the city has no connection with the history of science you would be wrong. Rouen has more than just a few stories to tell to prove it. 70 years before Jules Verne wrote the opening lines to ‘20 thousand leagues under the sea’ the first-ever submarine, the Nautilus, made its maiden dive in the waters of the Seine in July 1800. This original underwater vessel was built and invented by American engineer Robert Fulton who also invented the steam ship. The internal combustion engine, without which the car, originally powered by steam, would certainly never have had the success we know, was invented and patented by Rouen engineer Édouard Delamare-Deboutteville in 1884. A mechanical calculator was invented here by the 19- year-old Blaise Pascal in 1642. Blaise went on to show the existence of the vacuum in his workshop in Saint- Sever and woe betide anyone who says that Rouen has long been a city in a vacuum! So Rouen was home to such scientific exploits as the submarine, the calculator, the modern-day automobile and, of course, proof of the existence of the vacuum - not minor scientific discoveries, let’s face it!
25 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page26
The ninth art Rouen, capital of the comic strip It is another of Rouen’s well-kept secrets. The city long famous for its writers and painters is today home to many of the stars of the comic strip as well as up and coming writers of the genre. On the basis that in France today about ‘In the anonymous world of the comic one hundred writers and graphic designers make strip you can sell a million albums and a living out of selling their cartoon strip stories, still go about unrecognized.’ This is Rouen is truly the comic strip capital as it is home said without bitterness – quite the opposite as Fred Duval really appre- to at least 30 of them! ciates the fact that he can go about All these well-known comic strip geniuses and the city of his birth without being mainstays of the publishers such as Delcourt, spotted as a best-selling author by the public nor being swamped by Dupuis, Dargaud or Casterman love this city too the media and official invitations. much to leave! of the comic strip get together on wound up by the Parisian mother With over 60 titles to his name, Fred the first floor of the La Part des company just last year. We still have Duval, 46, is the creator of ‘Carmen Anges, a restaurant in the Place de la comic strip festival ‘Normandibulle’ McCallum’,’ Travis’, ‘Hauteville Pucelle, in Rouen. ‘Ours is quite a (the Norman speech bubble) which House’, ‘Lieutenant Mac Fly’, ‘Meteors’, lonely profession,’ says Christophe also takes place in Darnétal. ‘Mâchefer’ and co-author with Jean- Quet, ‘so it’s good to meet up with col- Whatever the reason neither Fred Pierre Pécau of the series ‘Jour J’ , all leagues.’ Quet, 42, who illustrates Duval nor his co-author illustrator published by Delcourt, except for ‘Travis’ and does the story board for Christophe Quet have any inten- ‘Mâchefer’ which is published by ‘Hauteville House’, is another Rouen tion of leaving the Rouen area. ‘I Vents d’Ouest. ‘comic stripper’. Although not a could have been long gone. I’ve had Rouen, secret capital native (he was born in Nîmes), he is the chance to travel all over the place of the 9th art part of the successful group of but actually I like living here in Every month about 20 or so of Franco-Belgians that keep the genre Rouen,’ says Fred Duval. ‘My family Fred’s colleagues and fellow authors so popular and the sector so all came from Cailly, just outside buoyant economically. Rouen. My grandmother was English Comic strip stars are no strangers to and her husband was a foreman in a the city as Rouen was also home to textile factory there so my roots are Olivier Vatine and Thierry well and truly here.’ Cailleteau (authors of the Fred Duval has been known to slip ‘Aquablue’ series) and Daniel in the odd view of the city but his Pecqueur (illustrator for the ‘Golden work has absolutely no connection City’ series) … so between the old to Rouen nor the region, although and the younger generation Rouen his anglo-rouen working class back- and the surrounding region is home ground does have an influence. to 30 or so professional writers and illustrators. History, Politics and tomorrow’s So is it the climate or the country- world side here that attracts writers and For the last ten years the dynamic illustrators? In the past Rouen had duo from Rouen Duval-Quet who its very own comic strip label ‘Petit together have completed 13 albums à Petit’ published by La Martinière, including 6 storyboards for ‘Haute- based in Darnétal, but the label was ville House’ plus a lucrative one-off Fred Duval (right) and Christophe Quet, author and illustrator of ‘Travis’.
26 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page27
In the middle of the XXI century against the background of a water war, the square in front of Rouen cathedral becomes the scene for a deadly settling of accounts … First chapter of ‘Blue Gold’ (L’Or bleu), volume 8 in the ‘Travis’ series by Rouen-based authors Fred Duval (script) and Christophe Quet (illustrations). Colour artists: Pierre Schelle and Stéphane Rosa. © Guy Delcourt Productions, 2007. 27 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page28
‘Le Casse, La grande escroquerie’ have Berlin wall whatever the American style based on realism and with been enthralling comic strip readers maintained but whether or not his- their cinematographic effect they in France and elsewhere … today tory will take us into the dark realm reinforce the scenario that explores the comic strip has got rid of its of anything-goes liberalism as descri- alternative outcomes and futures. naïve stories for kids aged 7 to 77 la- bed by Fred Duval in his work re- However, the storylines never enter bel and is now a major vehicle for se- mains to be seen. Although his sto- the realms of total fantasy. They rious and critical intellectual analy- ries do not necessarily make for always maintain a certain scientific sis of the modern world which is has happy reading, they are un-putdow- basis especially when the content absolutely nothing in common with nable and one is quickly enthralled deals with historical events giving the picture books of yesteryear. by both the story line and the illus- them an alternative outcome. Fred Duval’s work is rich and covers trations and they certainly give us ‘In “Jour J” with Jean-Pierre Pécau many subjects but a large part of it another take on the present day, the we did not go overboard. Our inter- involves his obsession with the ins past and, of course, the future. pretations always start from a plausi- and outs of political history. Take In the early 1990s, with his ‘Carmen ble alternative to a historical event. for example the cyberpunk ‘Travis’, McCallum’, Fred Duval described a After all, great happenings could or the steampunk in ‘Hauteville world where power is held by private always have gone either way and so House’, in the retro-style futurisme of empires with no scruples. ‘When I see would have changed the course of the ‘Nico’ (published by Dargaud) or how the world has turned out, I think history we know today.’ It just shows ‘Jour J’ – a common theme running I can safely say that I wasn’t far wrong, that when a writer delves into the through them all is politics and their although it gives me no pleasure to say realms of possibility he still needs to influence on history. that and there is nothing clever about keep his feet firmly planted on the it - anyone who read a book or two ground and where better than here ‘In 1992 when I read the American the very ground where he was born! philosopher Francis Fukuyama’s book about economy in the 1990s could “The end of history and the last have seen it coming,’ says Fred. man” I didn’t believe a word but it Head in the clouds and feet on really inspired me,’ he says. Accor- the ground ding to Fukuyama, the fall of the communist block was supposed to Experienced writer Fred knows that mark the arrival of liberal democracy a critical stance is better received and thus the end of historical deve- when supported by a good story lopment… line and so he has avoided using a style that is too stilted, preferring a But as we know history did not sim- more subtle approach. Christophe ply stop in 1989 with the fall of the Quet’s illustrations are done in a
Comic strip centre … Inaugurated in 2010, municipal library Simone-de-Beauvoir has the best collection of comic strip albums in Rouen. The building was designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti and is situated on the edge of the Grammont Park and contains 5,300 albums to read, borrow and enjoy.
28 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page29 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page30
Off the peg
Floral chic Designer Nicolas Le Cauchois studied at the renowned Paris Chamber of fashion and design academy, former students of which include such fashion icons as Yves Saint-Laurent, Issey Miyake and Alexis Mabille. In April 2010, he and his wife Hélène Basille opened their concept store ‘Dresses & Flowers’ just around the corner from the Rouen Tourist Office. The shop is a floral fashion first...
A delicate perfume fills the air thanks to the bunches of flowers that greet you. But wait a minute: is this a dress shop or a flower shop? The answer is, of course, both! Are they real flowers? is the next question a visitor asks, but only for a moment, as the beautiful blooms exude fragrance and now we know for certain it is ‘Dresses AND Flowers’. Why have just one when you can have both? Rare and beautiful plants or cut flowers displayed alongside stylish cocktail frocks and off-the-peg ladies’ fashion which, like the flowers, are all for sale but in limited numbers. It is a difficult choice which one to have: will it be a frock or a floral composition? They are so elegant and attractive. It is a pleasure just to read the labels on the dresses, it goes straight to your head like a glass of champagne.. Try ‘silk and cotton dress in pink with creamy flower embroidered motif, hand-sewn black beads and scattered sequins’ or ‘pencil skirt with inserts in thick Dormeuil wool crepe and a touch of linen satin and black vintage silk’. Ready for another fashion cocktail? Go on, just one more for the catwalk: ‘pencil skirt with large pouch pockets with chevron motif in black and honey coloured cotton’. ‘Hélène and I began working together in 1999,’ explains the 38-year-old designer and one can see the results in the shop. Monsieur does the clothes and Madame the bouquets. A perfect match after 4 years studying haute couture for Nicolas and a reputation as Rouen’s favourite floral fashion name for Hélène. ‘We have always mixed flowers with fashion - when our collection, inspired by Rimbaud’s poem “Dormeur du Val”, was on show in Paris we put the two together. The models all wore soft helmets topped with orchids…’ Nicolas Le Cauchois showed his first collection in 1999 when he was still in Paris. It consisted entirely of designs using linen, totally appropriate as this pale blue flower is widely cultivated in the cauchois region to the north of Rouen. Dresses & Flowers, 12, rue du Petit Salut, Rouen
30 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page31 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page32 The dep
32 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page33
Fashion talk epartment Store revisited From the start Printemps has had a reputation of being at the frontline of fashion. It continues to make a name for itself in the sale of luxury goods. The Rouen branch has been completely renovated in a new chic ‘loft’ look and the city centre store has increased its range of exclusive designer labels and international fashion elegance. An evolution which is in the tradition of this famous Paris name and standard bearer of French fashion…
rintemps has always been about good taste and being ahead of the rest. In P 1865 it was the first Paris store to have electricity, the first to have a tele- phone and the first to hold 'sales’. This XXI century name has lost nothing of its originality and remains at the forefront of fashion trends. Situated on the corner opposite the cathedral, Printemps brings a touch of elegance and a fresh look at the world of fashion, beauty and luxury goods to that most beau- tiful of Rouen’s streets, the rue Gros Horloge. From now on both visitors and Rouen city folk alike can buy a superb rage of luxury products and Printemps, the store that is home to designer names, has no intention of giving up its place as the fashion leader in the city that was the capi- tal of the Impressionist movement. ‘We thought long and hard about what brands we should be stocking here,’ explains Aline Derlot-Delapierre, store manager of the Gros-Horloge temple, ‘and we opted for a more luxurious range of products. We have the exclusive right for the sale of certain labels. ‘Coach’, for instance, is really popular with Americans and Asian visitors. In the jewellery department we stock names like Boucheron, Piaget, etc. In other words we offer a collection of designer names that are much sought after by visi- ting tourists.’ In order to help international visitors and to emphasis the importance that today’s new-look Printemps places on being customer-friendly the store now has a system of ‘personalised shopping’ where you can shop with your very own interpreter. ‘We have taken on Chinese students to translate for shoppers or for visi- ting tour operators so that clients can shop easily and miss nothing on the French fashion scene,’ adds Aline Derlot. Printemps is the new fashionista paradise for Rouen’s trendy and fashion conscious international visitors…but what about men in all of this? They have certainly not been forgotten by the store that was as a front runner in the world of men’s fashion. Remember, Printemps was the first to carry a range of off-the- peg fashion for men as long ago as 1939. Today’s new line is named after the famous British dandy George ‘Beau’ Brummell. ‘This is a new line that Printemps has just launched. It is a range of well-tailored and elegant contemporary suits,’ enthuses Aline. ‘I am so pleased with this range as I am sure it will appeal to our foreign clients who are keen to buy clothes with a label saying “Made in France” which guarantees chic and quality.’ Beau Brummell knew how to put clothes toge- ther for a stylish and elegant effect and, although he was English, his name has always been synonymous with good taste. This new line will carry on that tradi- tion thanks to that most French of department stores, Printemps, the modern man’s fashion ideal… Le Printemps, 4, rue du Gros Horloge, Rouen 33 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page34 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page35
Furniture by design
A stone’s throw away from St-Georges’ Abbey ut why did Daan Koers leave at Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville, Dutch-born B the land of his birth? It is woodworker Daan Koers has his workshop true that Maastricht was once part of France and even where he creates exclusive furniture. Perhaps capital of the then department this sleepy Seine Maritime community is about ‘Meuse-inférieure’ (and, by the way, to become the capital of designer furniture? Normandy film star Bourvil always said that nothing beats the sunset on the river Meuse) but that was in ‘I come from an area known as the ters.’ A Dutch man on the Riviera so Napoleon’s time. True too that just Limbourgeois in the Maastricht that is where the story starts… Then over 13 million French voters said region and, do you know, it looks a lot I went to Paris and studied for a CAP ‘yes’ to the Maastricht European like Normandy.’ Is that the reason in woodwork at a nightschool called treaty in 1992 and almost as many why you came here? ‘No,’ Daan ‘Boule Boule’ and I also studied furni- said ‘no’ and it is certainly true that Koers smiles. Daan Koers is from ture design and cabinet-making.’ Daan is not your ordinary everyday the Netherlands and remember not OK, now we are getting somew- tulip-selling Dutchman happy on to say he is from Holland as here. Daan started work in Paris his polder. Holland is just one of the provinces and became quite well known. But none of this tells us why Daan and what’s more is below sea level Then he met his wife, Christel, Koers, subject of HRH Queen while Limbourg towers above it. whereupon they decided to come Beatrix, came here to Normandy Daan Koers is the stereotypical and live in Saint-Martin-de- and set up his designer shop in blond with blue eyes Dutchman Boscherville. And that’s it ..? Well, Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville, in and he is a woodworker. ‘I was 26 it’s really none of our business, is it? the Duclair precinct, 134 meters when I left Maastricht in the summer We have not come to ask Daan above sea level and famous as the of 1984. I went with a friend who is about his personal life, so let’s get to home of former local MP and a naval carpenter and we went to a the point and ask him about his Mayor Jean Lecanuet. dockyard in the south of France as work! ➞ volunteers with a lot of other youngs- 35 2-REVER 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 07:24 Page36
mirrored lid. Exterior in pink peroba, lined with linen-fold sycamore and peroba. Base in microbeaded alumi- nium.’ Thank goodness Daan Koers deci- ded to leave Maastricht and settle here! Wasn’t it Colbert, Louis XIV’s Minister of Finance, who invited all the craftsmen of Europe to come and settle in France as part of his dream to turn France into a land of excellence? Wasn’t it Colbert who encouraged simple carpenters to become cabinet makers so that France could produce quality furni- ture? 400 years later Daan heard the call and took up the residence in Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville where he embodies Colbert’s dream of the skilled craftsmen living and wor- king in France making one-off qua- lity pieces. Saint-Martin-de Boscherville is never going to be known for its soaring mountains but, thanks to Daan Koers, it may well be on the European cabinet makers’ map.
Straight down the line design with a carefully analysed ‘I love the 30’s style,’ says Daan. functionality. ‘I think that the end Inside his Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville use is the really important element in workhop Daan Koers lovingly the design. The thing needs to work – transforms bits of wood into beauti- to be fit for purpose. It has to be ele- ful furniture and all done to classi- gant and should never look out of cal music in a shed in the bottom of place whether it is used indoors or his garden. The workshop smells of outdoors.’ Daan’s designs are lovin- wood and is somehow very like gly fashioned down to the last detail Daan himself: clean and bright, so much so that one cannot help friendly, fun, yet rather secretive at admiring their shapes, simple but so the same time. ‘Woodworking does effective, no fuss no frills, just beau- not require a great deal of wood and tiful wooden objects. Even the way not all sorts of wood smell nice.’ Daan Daan describes them is poetic. Take Koers’ furniture creations are mini- this description of a console table: malist and sober, making sure that it ‘fan-shaped plateau of Macassar is the wood itself that takes centre ebony set on four legs of solid sycamore stage. ‘By the way, I loathe anything curving forward in the “sabre” design made of metal,’ he adds, In the back with a touch latch mounted central of the shop we can just make out a drawer’. Or how about this: ‘mono- piece that is straight out of Bauhaus, lithic vanity unit with a traditional very crisp lines, marrying a pure drawer and compartments closed by a
36 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page37 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page38
LIFE STYLE ‘What colour would you say the river Seine is? A beautiful colour because the river represents life and hope - it means that people can work and find their feet, find themselves here, whatever their background, whether or not they have strings of letters after their names. The river is a thing of beauty, it has brought wealth with its waters and I would say that it is a sort of golden yellow. For me the river is a very positive thing, a stream of life shining out into all the little valleys either side.’
Ninth century Rouen and the Seine valley were the very heart of Viking Normandy.
*(Extract from an interview done by the Rouen-based ‘Échelle inconnue’ Group as part of their project ‘De[s]rive[s]’, part of the Rouen Impressionist Festival.) 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page39
Celebrating 1100 years of Normandy
When Rouen was the Viking capital of Normandy 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page40
Remains of the Church of Saint-Pierre-du-Châtel, built on the site of the former chapel of Rollon’s castle. In 911, on the banks of the river at Saint- Clair-sur-Epte: Charles the Simple, King of West France, met with the Viking chief Rollon and gave him the county of Rouen. From then on the Northmen were masters of a kingdom that today would be the equivalent of Upper Normandy (‘Haute-Normandie’) plus the area in Lower Normandy known as the Pays d’Auge. 11 centuries on, what remains of this Rouen, once Viking capital of the Seine Valley – a Scandinavian enclave here in what was then the land of Northmen? centuries later one things is for sure: the have just drawn. There is no archaeological evidence to 11 word Viking still means something. For us it show that they ever wore winged helmets or the heavy no longer strikes terror but conjures up metal body armour and, let’s face it, if you were sailing images from Hollywood blockbusters, or on one of those long ships would you cover yourself in those advertising chain saws, barbecues, anti-fire protec- weighty and potentially lethal heavy metal plates? How tion, GPS, office furniture, casinos - the list is endless! come such an undisciplined and bloodthirsty people But do we only think of Vikings as those Scandinavian came to make the city Rouen a basis for a Dukedom bandits that rampaged along the coastal waters of the that would soon reign over vast parts of Western land of Neustrie and who sailed up the Seine, besieging Europe? How was it that, thanks to their solid political, Paris, burning and pillaging the riverside settlements as economic and military base, the Vikings were the only they went and sacking the wealthy monasteries and rich ones apart from Julius Caesar to successfully mount an abbeys that they found on their way? operation against the British Isles, thus uniting both sides of the Channel into one powerful kingdom after Watch out! Where is there one Viking there may be the battle of Hastings in 1066? another! When we think of the Vikings, we picture fierce war- The Normans in Rouen riors with horned helmets and battle axes, We think of Viking Normandy is a bit of a myth, if the truth be told, their dragon-headed ships and their prowess as naviga- as Jacques Tanguy, Rouen Tourist Office Conference tors and explorers crossing the Atlantic. But these Guide and local historian explains: ‘A Viking state had images do not do justice to the highly organised and already been established long before the Treaty of Saint- developed social Viking social structure that ruled great Clair-sur-Epte. The date of 911, marking the creation of swathes of Europe for centuries. Today’s advertising the region is not an accurate timeline. It was chosen for agencies have often used the fierce image of the fearless political and propaganda reasons at the end of the 19th cen- warrior to sell all sorts of things which has totally over- tury. The date of the treaty is in reality probably more shadowed the depths of this ancient and highly develo- accurately around 876, which is the date of the Jumièges ped civilisation - perhaps we only remember the fierce- pact.’ What happened was, that terrified that they might ness and barbaric side because the Vikings were slow to face another wave of invasions and pillaging such as they adopt Christianity and their bad and stereotypic press is had seen in 859, the merchants and Archbishop of the result. Rouen sent emissaries to Jumièges, where the Jarl or Whatever the reason, these Scandinavian warriors are Chief Hrólfr (or Rollon in old Norrois, the Norse tongue) always depicted with those ferocious helmets and their ➞ bodies swathed in overlapping protective chestguards. They are shown surging over the side of a drakkar (the Viking boat) whose awesome jaws rises out of the mists as the raiding party advances on the unsuspecting vic- tims. The Vikings are often shown as bloodthirsty and vicious anarchic pirates who took delight in killing priests and sacking monasteries and peaceful settle- ments, but this is not a realistic picture of the Viking as any historian will tell you. The historical reality is a far cry from the picture we
Today the Halle aux Toiles stands where the Norman riverside castle once stood. The castle served as a model for the Tower of London but all that remains today are the names of the streets either side of the square which recall the castle’s lofty towers: High Tower and Low Tower streets (‘rue Basse Vieille Tour and rue de la Haute Vieille Tour’). 40 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page41
Celebrating 1100 years of Normandy Rollon’s effigy and tomb, Rouen Cathedral 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page42
and his men had made their encampment. The deal was that the Vikings could have control of Rouen if, in return, they protected the city against other invaders. ‘The Seine valley was the start of what would become the Dukedom of Normandy,’ Jacques Tanguy continues. ‘Rouen has always been the capital. In fact the state only extended westwards towards Brittany after 1050 to the area that we know as ‘Normandie armoricaine’. The real power centre of Normandy, even under William the Conqueror, has always been Rouen. Caen was only ever a military stronghold that William specifically built to defend Rouen and the Seine valley region against the raids from the Vikings in the Cotentin peninsula.’ The area was first a county, then a Duchy, and officially became the state of Normandy with the rather over- blown tale of the historical signing of the treaty on the banks of the Epte at Saint-Clair-sur-Epte in 911. The then French King, Charles the Simple, merely recogni- sed and formalised what had had been in effect a politi- cal reality for decades and simply officialised the bor- ders. However, the date is not without significance: the Vikings had just inflicted a heavy defeat at Chartres and so the move was a way to officially declare them ruler of the western region so that they stopped attacking Charles’ kingdom and gave up any ambitions towards Under the Rouen Cathedral Romanesque, you find a crypt dating from Paris and the rest of what is now the region of Ile de the time of William the Conqueror. France. But it was a promise that the Normans from Rouen would only keep in part. his to the north overlooking the countryside outside the city.’ However, there are still some parts of the city that date Tracing the Norman footprint from that epoch, like the remains of the church Saint- Not much remains from the Viking era in terms of Pierre-du-Châtel which is behind the Rouen Opera architecture or other vestiges. The Norman capital House and which Jacques says ‘was probably a church under the Vikings (around the IX and XI centuries), was built around the remains of the Duke’s private chapel a lot smaller than it is today. The western limit of the within the castle’. Another memory from that time city was where the ‘Gros Horloge’ is today and the eas- which has passed into Rouen today is the name tern limits today’s rue de la République. To the north, Rougemare. In 949 when Richard I was Duke of the edge of the city was roughly in line with the Fossés Normandy, the kings of Eastern and Western France Louis VIII, with the rue du Général-Leclerc marking the southern boundary. ‘From the rue Général-Leclerc down and the Count of Flanders (Othon, Louis IV and to the river bank was a marshy area with lots of little Arnould France) joined forces and besieged Rouen with islands,’ explains Jacques Tanguy. ‘Archaeologist Jacques Le the aim of taking the city from the Normans. Using sur- Maho is a specialist from this period and he has shown that prise tactics which, of course, was a favourite Norman it was no doubt the Normans who built up the river banks ruse, Richard took the assailants by storm one Sunday in the 9th century, narrowing its course’. It was here on the morning. Perhaps his choice of a Sunday is symbolic of reclaimed land that Rollon's descendants chose to build the Normans’ rather superficial Christianity - their an imposing stone castle as the physical demonstration of conversion had come just 30 years earlier when Rollo their power. ‘This fortress was the protype of the typical was baptised in Rouen Cathedral and changed his name medieval castle,’ carries on historian Jacques. ‘It was both as a mark of his conversion from the Viking Rollo to the the official residence of the Duke and it is a further reminder Christian Robert. ‘That Sunday Richard totally destroyed that Rouen has always been the capital of Normandy.’ Nothing remains of the castle apart from street names them,’ says Jacques Tanguy. The Normans killed so such as Lower and Old High Tower (‘Basse et Haute many and there was so much blood at the city walls that Vieille Tour’) which remind us of the castle layout and the spot was known from henceforth as Rougemare, which today are either side of the ‘Halle aux Toiles‘ which can be roughly translated as blood bath. Another which overlooks the river. ‘The castle in Rouen would be remnant from our Norman past is to be found in the used as a model by William the Conqueror for the tower of crypt of the Church of Saint-Gervais, to the west of the London built in 1066-1067.’ The two castles had a lot in city where there had once been the priory of the same common, both built as symbols of the strength and names and where William the Conqueror died. ‘Finally,’ power of the Norman state they would have different continues Jacques Tanguy, ‘there is the street called Pré-de- destinies. The Rouen castle would be completely des- la-Bataille (Meadow of the Battle) whose name comes from troyed by Philippe Augustus in 1204 as an equally powerful symbol that the French state had crushed the enormous battle between William’s forces and those of Norman independence and that once again the one- the Cotentin Normans who were always troublesome’. After time capital was part of the French state. their defeat, and as a punishment for their constant ‘The seafaring Normans had, of course, built their fortress disobedience, William banished them and sent them off on the banks of the river,’ says Jacques with a smile, ‘but to conqueror Sicily…’ Philippe Augustus, King of France, would choose to build
42 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page43
Celebrating 1100 years of Normandy
In 912, more than 50 years after his compatriots had plundered and pillaged their way up the Seine valley, destroying the wealthy monastic foundations in their path, Rollon, the Jarl or Chief Viking, first duke of Neustria and lesser Brittany, was baptised by Francon, Archbishop of Rouen. His conversion reassured the monk who flocked back to the Seine valley abbeys but the renaissance of those abbeys would come later, 1,000 years later… The monastic way of life: a Normandy tradition rediscovered hy did those 9th century Vikings W hate the Christian clergy and monas- tic establishments so much? Were they still seeking revenge on the Christians in punishment for Charlemagne’s actions when he decapitated 4,500 Saxons, the Viking’s ally, at Verdun because they refused to be baptised? ➞ 43 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page44
The answer is that the abbeys were full of precious jewels, gold and sil- ver, but Charlemagne’s empire had long since been unable to defend them and so these wealthy esta- blishments were an ideal target for the Viking raiders. The Christian chroniclers of the time wrote about the atrocities and the blasphemous actions and screams of the Vikings as they burned and slaughtered. This may be an exaggeration but one thing is for sure, the rich monastic foundations of Jumièges, Saint-Wandrille and even Saint- Ouen, in Rouen, were all razed to the ground and their monks slaughtered in raids in 841, 843, 852, 862… The Seine valley was not safe place in the 9th century and an easy target for the Scandinavian pirates...
Return of the relics Historian Henry Decaëns des- cribes the Normans ‘as merchants who had nothing to sell’ and who were not in the least bit ashamed about not paying for what they took. Henry Decaëns is an expert on the history of the Abbey of Saint-Ouen, of which nothing re- mains today in Rouen except for the Abbey church. ‘The abbey of Saint-Ouen was founded in 750, by Charles Martel’s brother Bishop Saint-Rémy, who would become the first Archbishop.’ This abbey was the most powerful in the Seine valley area and, even if it had been pillaged, it was probably spared came Robert and was described as were supposedly Christian, they the worst of the raids that took a ‘very Christian prince’. ‘People maintained some of their ancient place in 841. ‘The monks left were still afraid of the Vikings,’ customs: ‘The Normans continued Saint-Ouen, taking with them the continues Henry Decaëns. There with their traditional form of mar- precious manuscripts and relics, but is a manuscript dating from the riage. The “more danico” which they came back fairly quickly and XI century which talks about the meant that there was no ceremony the relics were returned to the abbey return of the relics to the Abbey and the future bride was not neces- from their hiding place in Condé- of Saint-Ouen, a text which has sarily consulted. She did not have to sur-Aisne as early as 918 which been translated by Jacques Le agree to the marriage – the bride’s shows that the monks were not Maho and which reads: ‘In that consent was of no importance…,’ afraid of their new Norman mas- place there were Vikings from Den- explains Henry Decaëns. ters.’ There followed a period of mark. They had been fiery wolves relative calm and economic pros- but had now become as gentle as 940, William Longsword perity. ‘Normandy was a rich area lambs. The Vikings had stopped the revives Jumièges when compared to the rest of France nonstop spilling of human blood It was not long after its founda- at that time,’ continues Henry. and pillage and no longer worship- tion at the beginning of the IX But things did not go back to nor- ped pagan gods nor read the future century that the church of Saint- mal and the abbeys did not reco- in the bloody entails of sacrificed Pierre was raided and destroyed ver immediately, in spite of the animals.’ by Viking chief Ragnar, on his fact that Rollon was baptised, be- But even if these great warriors return from two hectic days of
44 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page45
Celebrating 1100 years of Normandy
rape and pillage in Rouen in the abbey has remained unchan- later. ‘The then king Louis IV pre- 841. ‘We have found the archaeo- ged since its foundation by ferred the abbey of Saint-Ouen logical trace of the flames that des- Saint-Philibert at the time of and would have closed Jumièges troyed the church in this first Charlemagne in 654. ‘Rollon saw but the monks wrote a moving tri- Viking raid,’ explains Étienne the same construction we are loo- bute to their protector “com- Auzou, who is responsible for king at now,’ says Étienne Auzou, plainte sur la mort de Guillaume heritage conservation at ‘this is all there is, as nothing else Longue Epée” praising William’s Jumièges Abbey, as he showed survived the Viking raids. But great devotion and piety. This me a section of a wooden wall what there is unique.’ memorial is the oldest piece of dating from the first construc- However, even if the building written Normandy history.’ tion built within the abbey walls. survived, the monks were not as Jumièges was alternatively pro- The Romantic movement chris- steadfast and gave up the site tected and pillaged by the tened Jumièges ‘The most beau- because of the continual raids. Norman leaders. Just a few years tiful ruin in France’ and it is cer- They moved away to the area before the Treaty of Saint-Clair- tainly a heritage treasure. The near Cambrai in or around 885. sur-Epte, Rollon signed the abbey has been destroyed several ‘William Longsword, Rollon’s son, ‘Jumièges pact’ with representa- times over the course of its his- encouraged the monks to return tives for the Archbishopric in tory and even became a source of here in 940,’ he continues. Sadly Rouen which confirmed the building stone for a local worthy for the monks their protector Viking supremacy and influence in 1802, yet the oldest part of was assassinated just two years in the Seine valley. ➞ 45 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:10 Page46
1114, foundation of Boscherville conversion to Christianity. ‘The continues Dominique Cyrot. The Abbey church has remained just as it was in abbey here at Boscherville played Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville the 12th century, apart from a few an important role in the area’s eco- began as a college of monks on the additions such as the ceiling which nomy and had considerable site of what had been a funeral cha- dates from the beginning of the 13th influence as a centre for learning. pel since the 7th century at least. century. It is a very beautiful and The abbey is a remarkable buil- Founded by Raoul Fitzgérald, attractive church.’ There is very lit- ding, not just as a truly exceptional either to wipe out his sins or as a tle evidence of Viking art in the historical site in perfect state of means of assuring his own entry layout or in the decorations here in preservation but as a memorial to and that of his descendants into the abbey but we can see their the adoption of the Seine valley as heaven in a future life. ‘The site had influence: ‘The decorative motifs on a homeland by these fierce war- been a holy place since the Gauls,’ the tops of the pillars in the Chapter riors. Dominique Cyrot, President of the House depict the knights in full bat- Tourist Association of Saint- tle, a little like those shown in the Georges de Boscherville abbey Bayeux tapestry. At the entrance to (Atar) tells us. the abbey church we can also see The Romanesque abbey at traces of decoration used in Viking Boscherville was founded after the metalwork and the lantern tower is Viking invasion of the area but it is an excellent example of a favourite the architectural proof of their element of Viking architectural style,’
A Viking stitch in our time… Normandy’s 1100th birthday celebrations will see a host of events with an ancient and modern feel, linking traditional and contemporary arts and heritage. One such project is being undertaken by a sewing club from the five Normandy departments in collabora- tion with one from Brittany and another from England. The sewing club president is Marie-Christine Nobécourt who is working with historian Jean Renaud, novelist Pierre Efratas and graphic designer Gilles Pivard to produce a tapestry inspired by that of Queen Mathilde. The tapestry will be over 30 metres long and will recount Rollon’s life in 30 sections. The tapestry will be produced in a Viking stitch a form of sewing even older than the one used in the Bayeux Tapestry. Rollon’s Tapestry will be on display in the nave of the Abbey Church of Saint-Ouen alongside the work of a contemporary Catalan artist Joachim Mogarra who has created scenes from the Bayeux Tapestry using everyday objects in a series of 51 photos.
46 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:11 Page47
911 - 2011 : Happy Birthday Normandie ! En 2011, 1100 ans après la signature du traité de Saint- Clair-sur-Epte, qui marque la première étape de la création du duché de Normandie, la Normandie célèbre l'anniversaire de sa fondation. « Il y a 100 ans le Millénaire de la Normandie » Dans le cadre de sa démarche d’animation de son territoire de compétence, l’Office de Tourisme et des Congrès de Rouen vallée de Seine Normandie propose une exposition sur le thème « Il y a 100 ans le Millénaire de la Normandie ». Cette « rétrospective » a été rendue possible grâce aux prêts de nombreux collectionneurs et passionnés de cartes postales anciennes qui ont bien voulu répondre à notre appel. Un blog www.1100ans.blogspot.com a d’ailleurs été spécialement conçu pour partager les nombreux documents édités à l’occasion de ces cérémonies du millénaire normand à Rouen. L’exposition est installée dans la cour intérieure du Bureau des Finances pendant toute la saison touristique. Entrée gratuite aux horaires d’ouverture de l’Office de Tourisme et des Congrès de Rouen vallée de Seine Renseignements au 02 32 08 32 40 Ouverture : lundi au samedi de 9h à 19h et dimanches et jours fériés 9h30 à 12h30 et de 14h à 18h - Du 17 mai au 31 décembre 2011 Programme des animations de la ville de Rouen Renseignements et programme com- Ateliers et démonstrations Déjeuners médiévaux plet au 02 32 08 13 90 (Direction du Activités pour les enfants « Quizz » Déjeuners médiévaux dans un restau- développement culturel) le samedi 25 juin de 14h30 à 16h00 rant du centre-ville de Rouen, suivis le dimanche 3 juillet de 14h30 à 16h00 d'une visite guidée (Rouen au temps Exposition(s) à Saint-Ouen Initiation à l’héraldique par les biblio- des Ducs). « Relectures / Regards contemporains thèques de la ville de Rouen Samedis 18 juin, 23 juillet, 20 août et 17 sur l’histoire mythique de la Normandie » Démonstrations de points d’Orient septembre 2011. « La tapisserie de Rollon » Par Marie-Catherine Nobécourt et les 39€ / personne (déjeuner boissons Cette exposition présentera une tapis- brodeuses de l’association comprises/ visite guidée) serie brodée à la main aux points Le samedi 18 juin et de 14h30 à 16h Informations pratiques : 02 32 08 32 40 d’orient, réalisée sur le modèle de la bro- derie de Bayeux. Soirées contées "Rouen sur mer" en décor viking « La tapisserie de Bayeux » « La très belle saga de Rollon le Viking» "Rouen sur mer", la plage installée par la « La tapisserie de Bayeux » est une Par le romancier et conteur Pierre Efratas Ville de Rouen, rive gauche sur les quais Abbatiale Saint-Ouen de Rouen, en juillet 2011, sera aux cou- exposition photographique évoquant Gratuit avec humour une histoire mythique de Le samedi 18 juin et le mercredi 13 juillet en leurs des vikings. la Normandie. soirée Entrée gratuite Du 18 juin au 27 juillet 2011 Les visites Ouverture les mardis, mercredis, jeudis, Pour compléter ces manifestations la samedis et dimanches de 10h à 12h et de 14h Ville de Rouen et l’Office de Tourisme à 18h. proposeront durant l’été 2011 des visites Cinéma guidées sur le thème de la Normandie et La manifestation de cinéma en plein air de sa fondation : « Ecran Total », proposera sur la plage de Parcours en ville autour des Ducs de Rouen sur Mer une soirée consacrée au Normandie / Rouen à l’époque ducale film de R. Fleischer, « Les Viking ». Une fois par semaine du 15 juillet au 31 Week-end du 22 et 23 juillet en soirée août au départ de l’Office de Tourisme Entrée gratuite 6,50€ ou 4,50€ (TR) Conférences La Normandie ducale autour de Rouen Samedi 18 juin et vendredi 8 juillet (crypte Saint-Gervais, église Grammont, Conférence de Jean Renaud sur la chapelle Saint-Paul, chapelle Saint Fondation de la Normandie Julien...) Parcours en car autour de Rouen, avec Samedi 8 octobre conférencier, durée 3h (le 2 juillet et le 24 Journée de conférences organisée par septembre 2011) l’Université de Rouen et l’Académie des 20 euros par personne (transport en bus et Belles Lettres et Arts de Rouen : « 911, visite sur sites comprise) Traité de Saint-Clair-sur-Epte, nais- Renseignements et programme complet au sance de la Normandie » 02 32 08 32 40
47 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:11 Page48 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:11 Page49
1100th anniversary of Normandy The oldest preserved Jewish site in Europe is to be found in Rouen in the heart of what was then the city’s important Jewish community. The building is under the present-day Law Courts and was discovered in 1976, when the Palais de Justice underwent restoration.
Rouen’sJewish community In the heyday of the Duchy of Normandy, Rouen was home to the largest Jewish community to be found north of the Loire. After his conquest « n the XI and XII centuries there I was a large and influential Je- of England in 1066, William the Conqueror wish community in Rouen,’ says encouraged merchants and craftsmen from the Henry Decaëns, historian and Vice- Jewish community of Rouen to go to London President of the Rouen Seine Valley Tourist Office. Henry and his wife and work there under his protection. William Christiane, who is also a historian, knew he could safely entrust the economic are experts in what is one of the development and the financial transactions most telling and remarkable ar- chaeological remains here in the city between the two shores of his new kingdom to from the time of the Middle Ages the Jews. under the Dukedom. The remains have been called a Jewish Monu- mandy to have survived the ravages The Jews: a people both ment because no-one is quite sure of time. The building, which was persecuted and protected what the vestiges were originally (see discovered by accident in 1976 Eminent American historian Nor- insert), but one thing is for sure this when the Law Courts were under- man Golb has made an in-depth archaeological site, unique in Eu- going restoration, has a style and si- study of the Jewish community in rope, tells us clearly just what a milar technique which point to it the Middle Ages here in Rouen. His wealthy and important centre of being contemporary with the crypt work, dating from 1985, entitled learning this Jewish community of Rouen Cathedral and the Abbey ‘The Rouen Jewish Community in the was. The remains are also one of the of Saint-Georges at Saint-Martin- Middle Ages, memories of a forgotten few examples of Romanesque archi- de-Boscherville. culture’ and published by the Rouen tecture under the Dukes of Nor- and Le Havre University Press, ➞ 49 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:11 Page50
(Right page) : The Normandy Parliament building was built at the beginning of the 16th century to house Rouen’s Exchequer which until then was a system of itinerant law courts set up by Rollon and held twice a year in a different place for a period of 3 months, once in the spring and once in the autumn.
put the Jewish case before the Pope himself. To do this he had to get permission from Duke Robert, nicknamed ‘short trousers’, who did not look kindly on the Jewish community. In return for his passport, Jacob had to pay all his travelling expenses and leave behind his eldest son Ye- kutiel as a hostage against his return to Rouen. ‘Jacob bar Ye- kutiel must have come from a very wealthy and influential co- munity indeed to have been se- lected to go to Rome as the French Jews’ spokesperson,’ writes Berhnard Blumenkranz in his memoire on the disco- very of the Jewish Monument entitled ‘Synagogue complex in Rouen: 1096-1116', publi- shed by the ‘Académie des Ins- criptions et des Belles-Lettres (1976)’. The anti-jewish feeling whip- ped up by the First Crusade would have terrible conse- quences in Rouen. On Ja- nuary 26, 1096, a dreadful massacre took place in the city perpetrated by Robert of Nor- mandy's crusaders. Blumen- kranz cites a contemporary ac- count: ‘Those who had signed up and taken the Cross began to grumble, “We have to leave and travel a great distance to fight God’s enemies in the East which is all very well, yet here at home we have the very worst of God’s enemies, the Jews, so what’s shows how the community had been well-established the point? There's something wrong somewhere.” Then in Rouen since Roman times. they started to gather arms and bundled all the Jews Protected under William the Conqueror in recognition they could find into a church – I do not know if this of the support shown to the Conqueror in the after- was done by stealth or by sheer force – in any case they math of the battle of Hastings, the community would put them all to the sword regardless of age or sex, ex- be ignored and shunned in the reign of Duke Robert cept for those who were willing to convert to Christia- II, William’s eldest son. Persecutions began even nity who were allowed to leave under a suspended though the Jewish community had papal protection as sentence.’ Things got a little better after that but, well as the theoretical protection of the Duke himself, when Normandy was swallowed up into the King- but the First Crusade would change that…. dom of France, the persecutions started up again. Both In the face of the persecutions, a Jew from Rouen, Ja- Philippe Auguste and Philippe le Bel exiled the Rouen cob bar Yekutiel, accompanied by his wife Hana and Jews in 1182 and again in 1306. At the time of this last his sons Isaac, Joseph and Juda, went off to Rome to expulsion the Jewish community in Rouen counted
50 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:11 Page51
Celebrating 1100 years of Normandy 3-Exister 2011-Uk_Mise en page 1 20/05/11 10:11 Page52
between 5,000 and 6,000 people and their ghetto tances and Alençon). This was re-christened the ‘Nor- would be razed to the ground. mandy Parliament’ by François I in 1515 and was the In 1499, under Louis XII, building started in the heart symbol of royal power in post ducal Normandy. A fi- of the former Jewish district of a palace to house defi- nal irony was that this institution should be erected on nitively the sovereign court of the Exchequer of Nor- ground belonging to those who had contributed so mandy which under Rollon had been an itinerant ins- greatly to the establishment of the Norman state and titution going from place to place (Rouen, its prosperity: the Jewish community in Rouen. Caudebec-en-Caux, Évreux, Les Andelys, Caen, Cou-
Synagogue, wealthy home or Rabbinic college? No-one knows exactly what the Jewish building was but there are three different hypotheses. The first, which is supported by Rouen’s Rabbi Elie Marciano and Bernard Blumenkrantz and the CNRS research team, is that it was part of a synagogue. The second, which is the preferred answer of archaeologists and particularly that of Dominique Bertin, who excavated the site in 1976, is that it is the remains of the house of a wealthy Jewish family. This is probably the most likely answer to the puzzle as the general layout of the building is identical to those of other houses found in Normandy dating from that time. Also the Jewish community had done very well out of the invasion of England in 1066 so there would have been many wealthy individuals capable of building such a fine house. The final possibility is one put forward by American university professor Norman Golb, who suggests that the remains may be that of a Jewish university, as we know for a fact that Rouen was a very important centre of learning within the Jewish community in the Middle Ages. Source: Jacques Tanguy, Rouen Tourist Office conference guide. 52 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page53 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page54
Savour the flavour
‘For my grandfather the Seine was the same colour as Algerian red wine which people used to blend and mix here in Rouen, in big barrels like you get in wine cellars and sometimes they overflowed.’
54 Anonymous quote (part of the souvenirs of bygone days in Rouen collected by the ‘Échelle inconnue’ group as part of the project ‘De[s]rive[s]’, for the Rouen Impressionist Festival) 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page55
1100e anniversaire de la Normandie See what’s cooking with Rouen’s top chefs A group of local chefs have got together to preserve Rouen’s traditional cuisine and regional specialties. Calling themselves the ‘Club des Toques’ (a toque is a chef’s cap), our chefs have given themselves a mission: to record the city’s culinary heritage and to tell the world about it! Their job is simple – to make sure that Normandy’s recipes pass on to future o what exactly is Rouen-style cui- generations without losing an ounce of flavour and S sine? Well, there is the world-fa- to ensure that Rouen remains a gourmet capital. mous ‘canard au sang’, sweet and juicy apples from Jumièges or the creamy heart-shaped Neuf- of getting through the seemingly endless procession of de- châtel cheese, products that all come from the city and surroun- lights that grace the crisp starched white linen tablecloths of a ding area. Then, looking a bit further afield, there is cider, Cal- traditional meal here. When we think of Normandy we think vados, pommeau, Benedictine, butter, cream, scallops, tasty of fresh fish and locally produced meats, mushrooms in creamy shrimps and fresh crabs, blackberry and blackcurrant jams and sauces, crunchy grated carrots, leeks in tangy vinaigrette, crisp jellies - to name but a few of the delicious things that come from lettuces and cabbages and turnip cooked in butter, ripe cheeses this opulent region of Normandy. This agricultural province is served with loads of traditional crusty French bread made with so rich that the Normans had to invent what is known as the Normandy-grown wheat ripened under the Cauchois sun. ‘trou normand’ (well-known throughout the world) as a means But Rouen‘s culinary prowess is not just about local food – it is also about the city’s capacity to take flavours and produce from all over the world that arrived here through the port and then to add them to something local to create something totally new. Fusion has long been a tradition here, handed down from one generation of chefs to the next. Creative cooking mar- rying exotic spices with local produce, recipes incorporating ‘surf and turf’ have long been on the menus of Rouen’s culinary kings. The latest guardians of these time-honoured recipes, our ‘toqués’ have promised to carry on this mouth-watering tradition. Their challenge is not just to preserve those cherished Rouen and Nor- mandy recipes that have been handed down for generation but also to bring to those same classic dishes the right touch of crea- tivity that will ensure that future generations will continue to enjoy our rich regional cuisine.
‘Le Club des Toques’ of Rouen Seine Valley Au Bois Chenu 23, Place de la Pucelle d’Orléans, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 71 19 54 Les Capucines 16-18, rue Jean-Macé, Le Petit-Quevilly, Tel. +33 2 35 72 62 34 Le Catelier 164 bis avenue des Martyrs-de-la-Résistance, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 72 59 90 La Couronne 31 place du Vieux-Marché, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 71 40 90 Gill 9 quai de la Bourse, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 71 16 14 La Marmite 3 rue de Florence, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 71 75 55 Le 1900 33 rue Guynemer, Elbeuf, Tel. +33 2 35 77 07 27 Les Nymphéas 7-9 rue de la Pie, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 89 26 69 Origine 26, rampe cauchoise, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 70 95 52 Les P’tits Parapluies 46, rue Bourg-l’Abbé, Place de la Rougemare, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 88 55 26 Le Quatre Saisons Place Bernard-Tissot, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 71 96 00 Le Réverbère 5 place de la République, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 07 03 14 Le Rouennais 5 rue de la Pie, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 07 55 44 Auberge Saint-Jacques 547 route de Gournay, Saint-Jacques-sur-Darnétal, Tel. +33 2 35 23 79 04 Le Saint-Hilaire 110 rue Saint-Hilaire, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 98 74 55 Le Saint-Pierre 4, place du Bateau, La Bouille, Tel. +33 2 35 68 02 01 Le 6e Sens 2 rue Thomas-Corneille, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 88 43 97 La Voûte Saint-Yves 9 avenue du Général-Leclerc, Déville-lès-Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 75 03 17 55 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page56
56 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page57
1100e anniversaire de la Normandie At ‘1900’, Art nouveau on a plate
n spite of the ceiling design words: there has been a complete clients find irresistible! Seeing them I signed Yoland, originally revolution over the last few years.’ enjoy my food and talking to them inspired by some of Alfons For this Elbeuf chef every dish is a is what motivates me - but in order Mucha’s lithographs, here the real work of art designed to delight to do that you have to enjoy what customer’s eyes stay glued to the all 5 senses… The proof of his you do, really enjoy your work. If I plate, enjoying Xavier Knobelspiess’ ‘pudding’ is in the taste, it is pure didn’t, I wouldn’t be inspired.’ sensual and seductive style of and unadulterated. Xavier sees the ‘Le 1900’ is only small with less cooking. A meal at ‘Le 1900’ is not ingredients he chooses as actors in than 30 places. When you walk in, just an explosion of taste but a real a culinary play that celebrates life the first thing you see is the treat for the eyes – starting with the and taste. No stone is left unturned beautiful art nouveau style ceiling first course. Try the scallops in his search for aesthetic and but clients keep their eyes firmly on marinated in olive oil and fresh gustative delight! Each dish has its the plates as soon as the food lemon juice with smoked salmon own story to tell. Just take a look at comes - bewitched by the colours served with horseradish and this filet of cod. ‘Dressed in green and flavours of Xavier’s cuisine. pistachio nut cream- an and served in a red pepper coulis.’ Le 1900 extraordinary palette of gustative It is quite simply like a character 33 rue Guynemer, Elbeuf, delight! straight out of a play by Labiche. ‘I Tel. +33 2 35 77 07 27 really try to do my own thing in the Inspired! kitchen, not reproduce something Xavier Knobelspiess is a that is just copied from other contemporary cuisine enthusiast, people.’ The chef does not like to ‘Today’s cuisine is highly blow his own trumpet: his structured,’ he explains. ‘It has been inspiration comes from within. ‘I completely rethought. In other really love to cook food that my
57 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page58
The Saint-Hilaire a touch of elegance
homas Lemelle and his wife T are not obsessive; they go with the flow. Things change because that’s life like that. However, here things that may seem trivial are treated with attention to detail just as if they were the most important ingredient in the dish. ‘A fish dish is not just about the fish,’ says the chef. ‘It is also about all the other things that go to make up the whole. The choice of garnish is a vital element.’ Thomas Lemelle especially likes cooking with old varieties of vegetables, like the elongated beetroot which is still harvested by hand or the much talked about black rice with its nutty flavor. ‘The Emperors of China forbade its production because it was considered an aphrodisiac.’
Pure inspiration ‘My true source of inspiration is the product itself,’ says the chef of the ‘Saint-Hilaire’. Just like a jazz musician or a stage actor, Thomas Lemelle is master of his repertoire. He trained at the Louviers school of hotel hospitality and then over the course of his career has acquired his creative capacity and ability to make a sumptuous dish from the humblest basic ingredient. Inspiration can come from simple suede or a radish or a piece of meat. Then the chef’s creativity a class apart, like the elegance of the plates, one-offs signed Joël Le Saint-Hilaire comes into its own, making a tasty 110 rue Saint-Hilaire, Rouen, new dish cooked to perfection and Fliex, or the dishes by Julia Tel. +33 2 35 98 74 55 never just abandoned to any old Delaporte. This area of Rouen, the culinary thing. The young chef Croix-de-Pierre, is still considered loves to share his love of the less as being a bit working class but the familiar with his clients and part of ‘Saint-Hilaire’, 45 covers, brings the restaurant is set aside as a small more than a touch of elegance to shop where customers can take the area, it breathes authenticity home that special oil or vinegar and chic. Here every dish is a work that they have just enjoyed at the of art down to the last detail. table. This is the sort of attention to detail that makes the ‘Saint-Hilaire’
5858 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page59
Rouen gourmet capital
59 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page60
6060 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:35 Page61
1100e anniversaire de la Normandie La Voûte Saint-Yves or the Palace of Delights
avid Poret loves to put making at home, yet the two main with roasted hazel nuts. They may Dflavours together. ‘I make a ingredients complement each other sound odd but the proof is in the lovely recipe using calf’s perfectly.’ This is not the only eating and they are all astonishingly brawn and lobster served on totally surprising recipe that you delicious. For a restaurant a bed of buttered cabbage with will find signed by the chef at the experience there is certainly bacon,’ he tells us, making our ‘Voûte Saint-Yves’. Try his cod steak nothing that compares to a meal mouths water! ‘It is the sort of dish with chorizo, his oxtail puff with out at the ‘Voûte’. He really believes that you just would not think of crumbed frogs’ legs or his beef filet in the combinations of flavor and moreover you will find what can only be described as classic dishes from traditional French cuisine on the menu such as his excellent ‘sautéed lamb with lingot beans and fresh thyme’.
Sweets for my sweet… ‘In restaurants the thing that makes it a great meal is that final touch – the dessert and especially patisserie.’ David Poret is a trained pastry chef, a background that has no doubt influenced his style of cooking which is colourful yet meticulously structured, bringing contrasting flavours together to form a successful end product. His dessert menu reflects his adventurous cuisine. Take his ‘shortbread slice covered with hazelnut mousse cream and served with milk chocolate and peanut ice cream’ or ‘melt in the mouth millefeuille with a hint of banana, roasted baby bananas, chocolate coulis and fresh Normandy ice- cream’. But even if the 36-year-old chef trained initially as a pastry chef, specializing in sweets, he is now passionate about the savoury side of the business. ‘If you get up in the morning and have no desire to get into that kitchen then that is the day you change your job…’ But for David that is not likely to happen nor for the 65 lucky people who regularly fill the restaurant to sit down to enjoy his inimitable cuisine at the ‘Voûte Saint-Yves’ – reservations recommended! La Voûte Saint-Yves 9, avenue du Général Leclerc, Déville-lès-Rouen Tel. +33 2 35 75 03 17
61 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page62 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page63
So many delightful places to stay The Seine Valley offers the visitor a delightful range of charming and luxurious places to stay!
Whichever way you sleep, on your back, on your side, like a baby or standing up - try a night in one of these Seine Valley jewels that we have uncovered for you.
Camping de la Forêt, luxury (in the open air)
The luxury of this camp site will make everyone keen to go back to nature and set up tent for the ‘Camping de la Forêt’ is not just your everyday run of the mill sort of camp site. Sleeping under the prestigious 4 stars of this camp site is to enjoy its carefully set out pitches, each one surrounded by well-tended hedges for shade and privacy. The site is right in the heart of the Seine Valley on the edge of the Jumièges forest and offers top class facilities. Back to nature here does not mean back to basics. Enjoy the beauty of the Normandy countryside with easy access to monuments and museums and the city of Rouen. Golf course and leisure complex close by.
Camping de la Forêt, rue Mainberte, Jumièges, Tel. +33 2 35 37 93 43 Pitches from 16.50 to € 19 per night.
❛ sleeping under the prestigious 4 stars b
63 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page64
Le Clos des Fontaines, simply a treasure
Jumièges is best known for the quality of its fruits straight from the orchard, thanks to the micro climate that this area enjoys, nestling as it does in the bend of the river under the gleaming white cliffs that rise up above the Seine. This area is the perfect place to enjoy the fruits of the Normandy earth and a romantic gourmet break. The ‘Clos des Fontaines’ estate is a truly luxury oasis tucked away deep in the heart of the countryside where relaxation is on the menu. If you want to get away from it all, then this is the place. The 19 rooms are all beautifully decorated in contrasting styles with a scrupulous attention to the smallest detail and comfort. Keen antique lovers, the owners found all the furniture themselves as well as the decorative pieces in the room and suites whose names all conjure up images of local heritage (the Agnès- Sorel, Giverny, Pierre-Corneille rooms) or a touch of international chic ( Kyoto, Fez, New York, Paris rooms). Bask in the luxurious spa with haman, sauna, massage beds, and outside jacuzzi or try the wonderfully warm heated pool on the terrace – facilities that guarantee that guests don’t think twice before leaving the rest of the world behind.
Domaine Le Clos des Fontaines 91 rue de Fontaines, Jumièges, Tel. +33 2 35 33 96 96 Standard rooms from 90 to €130.
❛ thanks to the micro climate that this areas enjoys b
64 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page65
So many delightful places to stay Le Clos Jouvenet, a village feel in the heart of the city of Rouen
The Jouvenet area of Rouen still feels like the countryside and has not changed that much since it was the subject of many a painting by Paul Gauguin who lived here in 1884-1885. Yet this peaceful and sunny area has some well-kept secrets. Who could imagine that behind this old wattle and daub wall lies an elegant white Napoleon III style town house? This lovely house belongs to Catherine De Witte who has lovingly restored it and the four guest rooms retain their 19th century elegance while offering guests well-appointed comfort. The mistress of the house has thought of everything to make sure her guests feel welcome and at home. ‘There is real village feel to this part of the city,’ she admits with a graceful aristocratic incline of the head so in keeping with the house. Staying here at the ‘Clos Jouvenet’ will give guests a rare and privileged insight to what life was and is like behind the walls of these elegant and charming houses built by the wealthy on the city’s northern slopes.
Le Clos Jouvenet 42 rue Hyacinthe-Langlois, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 89 80 66 Price per night from 88 to €115.
❛ there is real village feel to this part of the city b
65 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page66 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page67
The cherry on the cake
When Françoise and Joseph Houelle built their home they included 4 guest rooms, each with its own entrance. The house is perfectly at home in the Jumièges countryside, surrounded by typical Normandy views. The rooms are classified 3 épis, are very comfortable and have gorgeous views of the delightful gardens that make up the grounds. But the icing on this particular cake is Mrs Houelle’s prowess in the kitchen. ‘I did some training before opening up our rooms with table d’hote,’ says Françoise. ‘I cook with local fresh produce and use traditional recipes, like guinea fowl braised in cider, courgette flan with camembert and chive cream, apple dumplings flambéed in calvados, salted butter caramels.’ ‘All washed down with the local aperitif pommeau, then cider served with the meal or wine for those that prefer and finished off with calvados, what else?’ adds her husband Joseph. So, bon appétit! Oh and what was that about a cherry? ‘For every reservation of at least 3 nights we offer one meal per person.’ Now, if that doesn’t take the biscuit! Au temps des cerises 924 route du Mesnil, Jumièges, Tel. +33 2 35 37 38 67 Price per night for 2: €59. Dinner: €24.
❛ so, bon appetit! b
67 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page68 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page69
So many delightful places to stay
Le Val Sarah, bringing back the guinguette
‘I just love to get up early and see the sunrise,’ says Ladislas Lefebvre with an enthusiasm and an energy which he shares with his wife Delphine. They have bought a little corner of paradise here in the Seine Valley National Park not far from the river crossing at Duclair, 3 kilometres from Bardouville. ‘From the helicopter it looks amazing,’ says Ladislas. ‘We have added a helipad to the farm but it is not just for us or for our guests, it is also used for local medical emergencies.’ Delphine and Ladislas are keen to be part of this riverside community. ‘Our motto is “live in your community”. We use local produce in everything we offer our guests – like this cheese which comes from just across the water from near Quevillon and the Roumare forest.’
Not far from the river crossing at La Bouille, six kilometres or so downstream, ‘Le Val Sarah’ is a former country farm dating from the XIX century which the young couple has transformed into guest rooms and gîtes de France accommodation (classed 3 épis). Here in the middle of the countryside it is the perfect place from which to take a stroll or a bike ride - or a glass of white wine and a bit of a sing song on a sunny afternoon for Delphine and Ladislas have brought back that most Norman of 19th century riverside entertainment: the guinguette. Two Thursday afternoons per month from 3 pm to 7.30 pm, step back into a Renoir painting and enjoy their plentiful buffet with drinks (no alcohol) and entertainment … lovely for a get-together with family or friends and no worries about drink and drive as you can stay here and prolong the fun! In the morning enjoy the countryside and what about a spot of tennis or football or a game of boules or for the less energetic a simple walk through the herb garden?
Le Val Sarah Bardouville, hameau de Beaulieu, Tel. +33 2 35 37 08 07 Price per night for two in double guest room: €70 Guinguette with band entrance fee (per person): 2nd & 4th Thursday per month from 3 pm to 7.30 pm €10 (entrance and 1 drink) €15 (entrance, 1 snack and 1 drink) €22 (entrance with plentiful buffet) 69 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page70
Le Pressoir, well-being in the Seine Valley forest
‘Between the end of September and the beginning of November you can hear the stags calling in the Roumare forest,’ Gérard and Brigitte Guéroult tell us. They live in a traditional long house which Gérard has lovingly restored himself, including 2 guest rooms in the plans. The interior decorating has all been done by Brigitte who has succeeded in making this a comfortable country getaway conveniently situated right in the heart of the Normandy Abbey Trail. ‘If you take the room on the first floor, you will find a choice of perfumes waiting for you to try, while in the room on the ground floor it is a choice of teas that we offer our guests.’ This is typical of the attention to detail that the Guéroults bring to their guest house. Indoors, nothing is too much trouble for Brigitte while Gérard busies himself, taking care of the grounds outside and the horses that guests see from the indoors, happily munching in the meadows that stretch away down to the line of trees that border the Saint-Martin marshes. On the left, the little path that leads through the well- tended woods where the different trees have been cut down to the height of a man in a cart as in days gone by, the wood being used to light the cosy winter-time fires. So for an authentic 100% Normandy countryside stay, look no further…
Le Pressoir 108 route de Brécy, Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville, Tel. +33 2 35 32 34 45 Price per night for 2: €60. 70 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page71
So many delightful places to stay Le Vert bocage, delicious dining
Just a few minutes as the crow flies from the city airport at Boos, the ‘Vert Bocage’ welcomes guests to its 19 well-appointed rooms. It’s the perfect place to stay if you are set on doing a walking or cycling tour of the plateau above the city of Rouen or the area between the Andelle and Seine river valleys. If you are a confirmed cyclist, then the steep hills that lead back to the comfort of the ‘Vert Bocage’ will not make your calves twitch in anguished anticipation, but no need to hop on a bike to enjoy the delights of the restaurant which has recently been completely refurbished. The decor echoes the colours and produce of our region with soothing tones of green and photos of orchards and cows in silver frames. As for the menu, pride of place is given to traditional French cuisine much appreciated by the locals, so best to reserve, especially after a hard day in the saddle!
Le Vert bocage 864, route de Paris, Franqueville-Saint-Pierre, Tel. +33 2 35 80 14 74 Price per night from 52 to €56. ❛ people come from a far to go green b
71 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page72 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page73
Discover some of our best restaurants along the banks of the Seine
Hungry Vikings would certainly not have turned up their noses at the offer of a lunch time break in one or other of these delightful Seine river- side restaurants where our gallant Normans would have found the very best of what this, their future home, has to offer. Who knows - perhaps if these inns and hostelries had already been in action then our ancestors might have spent more time wassailing and toasting the fruits of the region rather than pillaging…
Let’s set off on an epicurean expedition down what the Vikings and many others agree is the most beautiful river in the world and see what gourmet delight awaits us. Here along the banks of the Seine you can find both small countryside restaurants serving traditional fare or the very best in fine dining chic. You can sit right on the water’s edge enjoying ‘a magret de canard’ and see the real thing flying over the river as you watch the boats go by… Come with us down the Seine on our voyage to find riverside palaces of dining delight – stopping in La Bouille, Freneuse, Duclair, Rouen and Jumièges and meeting the chefs who are proud to produce a menu ‘made in Normandy’. Whatever your budget, there is a table waiting to conquer you here in the land of the Vikings!
73 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page74
Fine along a bank of the Seine 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page75
The White House, star spangled …
abulous views of the river Seine…elegant and creative F cuisine… delightful and tastefully decorated …impec- cable service. What more can we say? Have we over- done it on the compliments? Well, no we haven’t. We wan- ted to find something critical to say but we can’t. That is just how it is at ‘La Maison Blanche’. Hats off to Mina and Grégory Derasse. Even if you are a professional complainer, there is not a fault to be found here. Yet Grégory, the chef, is only 34 years old and, although at the height of his crea- tivity, is still modestly unsure of his talent. Try his snails in Banyuls wine syrup, a signature dish full of flavour and orgi- nality or his foie gras ravioli poached in chicken broth or his scallops served on a bed of mashed salt cod with a hint of vanilla …
A feast for the eyes as well as for the dinner Mina and Grégory Derasse took over the restaurant in La Bouille nine years ago and yet they have never been listed or visited by that other ‘Little Red Book’. Their clients were more than a little surprised to find that the ‘Maison Blanche’ was NOT in the Michelin. (Yes! It was that little red book we were referring to!) and it was thanks to the dis- cerning and appreciative editor of this magazine that one fine day the man from Michelin came to see what the young chef Derasse had to offer. The man in red only says who is he is when the meal is over and the bill has been paid (no cheating allowed!) which means that the chef is in the dark and at least spared the stress of knowing that the guide is out there in the dining room. But once the man has gone the long wait begins, waiting to see if, and what, he has written in that gourmet guide. All we can say is, ‘Wait and see! Everything is going to be fine, chef. We love you and your clients love you, so zen! …’
La Maison Blanche 1, quai Hector-Malot, La Bouille, Tel. +33 2 35 18 01 90 Menus: from 20 to €39.
75 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page76
Fine along a bank of the Seine Le Bailliage where flavour is king
his restaurant is situated in a building that dates from T 1707. At the time of the Ancien Régime, before the revolution, this would have been a law court settling administrative and financial questions under the rule of a Viscount. The viscount was appointed by the Dukes of Normandy as a sort of higher civil servant who represented their authority in the different counties of the kingdom. Well, enough of the past, let’s come back to today and see what chef Jean-Yves Anquetil has to offer us. Just a final word about the history of the place. In French this building is called a place for yawning (baillage) because the trials judged here were so boring - but Jean-Yves has changed all that …
On the spur of the moment He is a chef that listens to his instincts. ‘The oranges were so gorgeous this morning,’ he says, ‘that I have decided to go for cod in an orange butter sauce.’ There you have the essence of his approach to cooking - in a few deft strokes the chef has pre- pared something simple and delicious. His philosophy? Nothing to do with fanciful invention but everything to do with seasonal and freshness and the jury - the growing num- ber of faithful customers - approve. Anquetil did his training at two of Rouen’s most prestigious addresses. ‘I worked for 13 years at the Hotel de Dieppe, in their restaurant the Quatre Saisons, and I got my first diploma when I was just 17 working at the Beffroi.’ So, as a chef perpetuating the culinary tradi- tions of the region, where better to open a restaurant than in a place that echoes with the duchy’s history? The only thing that is new is that there is absolutely no yawning going on here but we will leave you to be the judge of that …
Le Bailliage 62, route de Pont-de-l’Arche, Freneuse, Tel. +33 2 35 87 57 37 Menus from 20 to €43.
76 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page77 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page78
Fine along a bank of the Seine Le Parc, mouthwateringly good…
rnaud Genty knows this place inside out, the beauti- A ful stately Napoleon III building and its gourmet reputation holds no secrets from him. He has known it all his life – you could say it is his life as he grew up here. Yet, for a moment when Arnaud was young he hesitated, preferring to don the black gown and wig of the lawyer to the crisp white tunic and toque of the chef, but good sense prevailed and he took over from his father who had made such a name for the place. Arnaud came into the kitchen here after doing his training in Louviers - a local hospitality and catering college - and took over. A modern-day version of the return of the prodigal son. He quickly made his influence felt, giving the old place a new look inside and out, keeping the magnificent Second Empire wood paneling but adding a touch of contemporary chic and then he set about doing the same thing to the menu.
Fast food with a difference ‘I love things that are freshly cooked and served straightaway,’ the young chef tells us. ‘Forget all that old-style meat in rich sauce, I like to roast the magret quickly so that it is still juicy and just pink - that way it retains all its flavour.’ So out with the old and in with the new – try his truly astonishing filet of bass in vanilla oil…but thankfully his relook has not meant throwing away the best of the old. Arnaud Genty remains a fervent defender of traditional Normandy produce and cooking and recently became a ‘maître canardier’ which means that he can now serve this typical Rouen duck recipe in Duclair – indeed he is the only chef trained and able to do so here in the place where the recipe was born. ‘Recently people have started to breed the ori- ginal Duclair duck for which the recipe was intended. The Duclair duck is smaller and completely black apart from a white neck band so it’s nickname is “the lawyer”.’ How appro- priate - our lawyer turned chef has brought back the Duclair duck home to its pace of origin to court discerning appetites and lovers of good food.
A taste of the Duchy – menus inspired by the region’s history It is the 1100th anniversary of the birth of Normandy and to mark this important date ‘Le Parc’ chef Arnaud Genty has recreated a favourite Normandy recipe from medieval times:… duck filet in verjus. This is a delicious mix of duck magret cooked in a cowl filled with bacon, pork, veal, almonds, leeks Le Parc and mushrooms and finished off with cognac, white wine 721, avenue du Président-Coty, and port... This is the sort of history that I like! Duclair, Tel. +33 2 35 37 50 31 Menus from 15 to €48.
78 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page79 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page80
Fine along a bank of the Seine Le Bureau... an office overlooking the river, what could be better?
ouen has given the quays on the right bank a face lift! R The old hangars and warehouses have been transfor- med into smart red brick buildings with fantastic views of the river and the port downstream. Although the big vessels no longer come upstream of the lift bridge Flaubert, there are still loads of barges travelling up the waters of the Seine making this a peaceful spot to enjoy lunch on the waterfront yet in the city centre. The food on offer here is typical of an old-fashioned brasserie serving salads, pâtés and traditional fish and meat dishes. The ‘Bureau’ has specialties like mussels and chips, welsh rarebit, pizzas and flamenkuchs or something called the ‘bouchon normand’, a large roll filled with chicken pieces, cream, mushrooms and apples served with chips and salad, making it a hearty snack! The place is light and airy, making the best of its spacious high ceilings, a relic from its bygone days as a port warehouse. So, although this is a chain, here in Rouen it is chain with a difference and well worth a stop to enjoy the view from the terrace.
Au Bureau Espace des Marégraphes bâtiment D4, Rouen, Tel. +33 2 35 15 92 40 Menus and set meals from 19 to €39.
80 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page81
L’Auberge du Bac, it’s the real thing…
f you are looking for traditional cooking then look no I further. This riverside restaurant is opposite the little river ferry at Jumièges, in a charming Normandy-style inn where legend has it the monks use to come and get warm in between river crossings if they were out and about. Looking up at the imposing oak beams it isn’t hard to ima- gine the monks warming themselves by the fire and drin- king a little something to brighten their day - and it cer- tainly would not have been tea! Today the Auberge is a popular as ever and people come from far and wide to enjoy tra- ditional Normandy cooking. ‘It is nothing fancy, just good plain Normandy cuisine using fresh local and seasonal products,’ says Jean- Philippe Carpentier, the young owner who has recently taken over the Auberge. New owner there may be, but the tried and tested staff remains. Laurent Voisin is still chef in the kitchen with his expe- rience and reputation for fine local fare. His joint of lamb is a firm favourite and as for his bass filets in Noilly Prat, all I can say is, try them! As for desserts they are all home-made on the premises, using fruits from the Jumièges area and you really cannot get fresher than that! For a taste of good old- fashioned values and a little bit of history this address is for you!
Auberge du Bac 2, rue Alphonse-Callais, Jumièges, Tel. +33 2 35 37 24 16 Menus from 13 to €35.
81 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page82
A well-dressed table Yainville, a place of
Christofle silverware is made here in Normandy he factory on the D 982 road at Yainville, near Jumièges. Tableware from the T just at the entrance to the little workshops here leaves the green Normandy town of Yainville, between Ju- valleys to grace the very best tables the world mièges and Le Trait, looks like any other factory that you find in France over… The Christofle brand has always been in the middle of the countryside, a linked to artists such as Man Ray, Cocteau, big concrete and steel block with no Andrée Putman or Ora-ïto, but the real ‘pièce de charm and nothing to recommend it. That is from the outside - but open resistance’ is the amazing design work of our the door and you are transported. Normandy craftsmen … You would never have imagined that inside that soulless building a whole art of planishing. His job is to beat the twin horns or arms of the anvil new world of opulence and charm each bit of metal into shape and it is depending on the look desired and awaits – a world of beautiful place all done by hand. ‘We put the metal then hammers away to shape and settings and luxury tableware fit for onto the anvil and work it,’ he ex- work the leaf. It is a craft process a king, a minister, an ambassador or plains. ‘This is the way that the job is that takes years to learn. And so next for a special wedding gift … done here in France. The hammering time you see some beautiful French process doesn’t show, it is invisible but tableware remember that it was pro- Christofle cutlery has been bringing you have to be really careful as even a bably made here in Yainville, Nor- that French touch to the best-dressed minute particle of dust will make an mandy, in a small village where the tables since 1830 and this traditional impression in the metal being hamme- golden touch of the skilled crafts- ‘savoir-faire’ is alive and well today in red.’ True enough, it is hard to ima- men at work for Christofle has gra- Yainville and in the hands of the 210 gine that the shiny surfaces of the ced the world’s most prestigious ta- workers who maintain the quality dishes on show here have been bea- bles for over century. ten out to smooth perfection by craftsmanship that is synonymous Magasin d’usine Christofle with the name Christofle. thousands of precise and accurate route de Duclair, Yainville, hammer blows! The silversmith Tel. +33 2 35 05 92 10 places the sheet of metal onto one of Open Tuesday to Saturday A golden touch for silverware from 10am to 18pm. Concentration reigns between the machines and the workshop. The girls in their blue overalls pick over every shiny little spoon and every sparkling fork looking for the tiniest fault … some of which would be in- visible to the untrained eye. The ones that fail the grade are gently poli- shed by hand until they are as sooth and as shiny as a sea of glass and each one of the employees here feels that they personally contribute to the prestige of the name. ‘Every step of the way we have to be unforgiving and look for the smallest defect,’ ex- plains Gérard Grenier. ‘That is the way we stay a market leader.’ Gérard Grenier has been voted one of France’s Best Workers – he is a silversmith specialised in the ancient
82 4-Devorer 2011-UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:36 Page83 luxury
83 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page84
Out and about
Rouen le the we
‘We call it a drop of blue, it’s a type of tax-free fuel that’s a sort of bluey colour, hence the name. In the tidal part of the river we use blue – all the people with motor boats navigating the Seine between Rouen and Le Havre use it. Blue is one of the three sorts of fuel used on the river.’
A navigator (extract from an interview collected by Rouen group ‘Échelle inconnue’ for the project ‘De[s]rives[s]’, part of the Rouen Impressionist Festival) 84 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page85
Urban walkays
ouen left bank, Looked down on by those who live right bank, the left bank is not just an ugly industrial duckling. It is on the he part left bank that tourists or property seekers can find beautiful art deco houses, green spaces, busy shopping centres, theatres, cinemas we love to hate and lots going on. So it’s well worth a look…come on I’ll show you…
eople who live on the right bank of the Seine P hardly ever cross the river to visit the other side. It is true that the right bankers live in the histo- ric heart of the city, in ‘old Rouen’, surrounded by architectural gems some of which, like the cathedral crypt, date from even before the XII century. But it is equally true that the Rouen right bankers know very little about the delights to be found on the left bank – like the quays running in front of the complex made up of national and local government offices or the busy and bustling Saint Sever shopping centre. Usually the only reason someone from the right bank goes across to the other side is to sort out a problem with their tax or ask for an official form from the Conseil Général (departmental council) and that is it … Guy Pessiot, author of ‘A history of greater Rouen: the left bank’ (published by PTC, 1990), tells us that this turn of events came about because the two banks deve- loped at different rates and have different environ- ments. ‘The right bank has 250 historic monuments concentrated in 4 square kilometers - it is the most densely historic area in France. Yet the left bank, in spite of its tra- ditional image as being an industrial hot spot, has the big- gest concentration of green spaces in the CREA or greater Rouen area. Parks and gardens like the Rouvray forest or the botanical gardens.’ ➞
On the left bank the Seine Maritime Departmental Council building has a tower used to store departmental archives which is the same height as the cathedral's Butter Tower on the opposite bank. The left bank suffered extensive damage during the war, particularly in 1944 when the bombings completely destroyed buildings along the quays and the surroundings areas like Sotteville-lès-Rouen. 85 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page86
With the arrival of the railway in 1842, Rouen's industrial magnates built themselves elegant brick and flint mansions close to the source of their wealth, the factories on the left bank.
First rate town planning Jacques Tanguy, one of Rouen Tourist Office's official guides, reminds us of the left bank's historical heritage. ‘For a long time there was only one bridge linking the two sides of the Seine and on the left bank there was only the village and church in Émandreville – roughly today's Saint-Sever area, and a few scattered hamlets along the river bank. Apart from that, the left bank was just cove- red in forests. The left bank was developed by monks from about the XIIIth century. We know that Emmurées/Saint- Sever area, the site of today's prison Bonne Nouvelle and the area around Grammont, were all developed by three religious houses but the left bank came into its own with the arrival of the railway in 1842 and after that the area became an urban and industrial centre. The painter Pissarro, who painted the left bank of the Seine several times, called this part of Rouen the “city with one hundred chimneys”, as opposed to the right bank which was known as the “city with a hundred steeples”.’ Essentially the left bank was integrated into the Rouen area and developed under the Second Empire and the end of the XIX century. ‘There are three lovely art deco houses in the rue d’Elbeuf and other houses around the botanical gardens where the rich industrial magnates Marcel-space Lods Sotteville-les-Rouen. made their homes.’ Interestingly enough, those same During the Second World War, a third of the city is destroyed or damaged by magnates put together a plan for urban development bombing. Reconstruction shall be entrusted to the architect-urbanist Marcel Lods. which still looks good today and which placed a great importance on social mix. Take a look at the roads that lead off the rue d’Elbeuf. You can see smaller houses for the workers standing amongst the grander houses owned by the wealthy. Rouen left bank has lots of inte- resting history and a rosy future when the new city sta- tion - part of the high speed link between Le Havre and Paris - opens its doors, putting Paris just 45 minutes away from Rouen and the left bank of the Seine!
The Saint-Sever shopping mall, the thriving rue Saint Sever and the huge Saturday morning food market in the place des Emmurées make this area the busy heart of Rouen's left bank.
86 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page87
Bodies beautiful
The Spa of the Cloth of Gold The Spa of the Cloth of Gold is to be found in the splendid Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, the fabulous Renaissance listed building in the centre of Rouen. The spa is named after the events shown in incredible detail on the sculpted frieze that runs along the wall of the Aumale gallery in the hotel's courtyard. This unique work tells the story of the meeting between King Henry VIII of England and King François I of France, which took place between June 7 and 24, 1520, and which is known to history as the ‘Field of the Cloth of Gold’. The event was marked by incredible luxury for the time, as each monarch sought to outdo the other. The spa well-deserves its name as a reference to the opulence of that 16th century summit. There are six beauty cabins (including one for couples), a hammam, a sauna, a heated pool (with hydro-massage and against-current swimming), a fitness centre and relaxation terrace - all fit for a King. Not to mention the beauty and well-being salon, offering facial and body care treatments: including aromatherapy, hydrotherapy, manicure, pedicure and depilation services. The team has four beauticians and two masseurs and offers visitors and city folk alike the option of a personal coach who will transform you into a modern-day King or Queen of the Cloth of Gold.…
Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde ***** 15 place de la Pucelle, Rouen, tel. +33 2 35 14 50 70 Open Monday to Friday from 11am to 8pm, Saturday from 9am to 8pm 87 and Sunday from 10am to 6.30pm. 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page88
Hell on the river August 44 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page89
Memorabilia museum
icolas Navarro has been col- makeshift SS HQ and that of ‘August ’44 Museum N lecting World War II Duclair's liberation… This tiny Château du Taillis ‘ memorabilia since 1993 museum brings hundreds of indivi- hameau de Saint-Paul, Duclair, and the young enthusiast has amas- dual pieces together to paint a vivid tel. +33 2 35 37 95 46 sed a huge number of American, picture of what life was like during Open from April 15 to October 15, British and German uniforms, small the tragic Battle of Normandy and Wednesday to Sunday, from 10am arms, anti-tank weapons, a range of allows us a glimpse of the hardships to 12am and from 2pm to 5pm. gas masks, including some elegant of life in German-occupied models made for women, pieces of Normandy, which are both surpri- planes and aircraft engines. He is sing and emotive, and then happier especially keen on finding items scenes from the Liberation. relating to August 1944. ‘My enthu- siasm was fired by the model airplane kits that I used to make, then I went on to models of the German Tiger tank which got me interested in the history behind the battle of Normandy. The first item I got from that period was an American base- ball, then I got a German bayonet.’ Nicolas is particularly keen on the history of what he calls ‘Hell on the Seine’, when the German army, in complete disarray, tried to cross the river and retreat from the advancing Anglo-Canadian troops. He is also an expert on what are known as the American ‘cigarette camps’. The collection has been placed into showpieces and lifelike tableaux – all designed and put into place by Nicolas Navarro himself. Here and there, scattered throughout the museum, there are MG 42 machine gun nests (‘These are guns that shot out 25 bullets a second, soldiers called them Hitler's saw,’ explains Nicolas.) Other scenes include an air crash, a
The August ’44 Museum is based in part of the Château du Taillis (built around 1530 by Jehan du Fay du Tailly on the ruins of a XIII century fortified manor house), which is set in an English-style park laid out over 5 hectares with trees that are over 300 years old. The park has many interesting tree species including giant sequoias, Virginia tulip trees and Atlas cedars. 89 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page90 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page91 The Crea Golf swings...
Aurélien, tell us about the golfing opportunities within the CREA? Aurélien Corvée-Blanchetière (ACB): We have four golf courses here within the Greater Rouen Area. There is the Club at Mesnil-sous-Jumièges which has an 18-hole course and is 25 minutes from Rouen in a pretty setting in the Seine River Natural Park. The advantage is that the club also offers a 9-hole Aurélien Corvée-Blanchetière course as well as the full 18-hole course, two-thirds of which runs through the surrounding forests with a third on the flat. This is a tricky course, best suited works at the Rouen Seine to confirmed golfers because of the Scottish-style rough areas and long straight Valley Normandy Tourist Office fairways cut out between the trees with woods on either side. and he's in charge of finding In Mont-Saint-Aignan the Golf Club is run by volunteers. The course is sui- table for all levels of players and again the course is set in trees and woods. and promoting new activities Same again for the Bois-Guillaume Club, which is an ideal course for begin- and places of interest within ners but also caters for more advanced players. Alternatively, we have the Club the greater Rouen area. We in the Forêt Verte at Bosc-Guérard. Although right on the edge of the CREA's territory, it is in fact only 20 minutes from the city centre and can be descri- asked him to tell us what the bed as ‘Rouen city’ golf club! The course has 18 holes over 6,000 metres with CREA (Community Council of water traps and 50 bunkers to tease golfers whatever their level. Finally, there is the Indoor Golf, in Rouen city centre on the Quay Boisguilbert. Rouen Elbeuf Austreberthe Area) has to offer golfing You say there is an indoor golf course here? enthusiasts. (ACB): Yes, it is an entirely new concept and has been built on the river bank in what used to be one of the old quayside warehouses. There are two purpose- built rooms where you can practise your golf shots with real golf balls. The rooms are equipped with simulators and three by four metre high screens Addresses for golfing enthusiasts: which give you the impression of playing out on a proper course. The web- cams and floor cameras capture the players’ swing and shots and so predict the Jumièges Golf Club and Course ball's trajectory, all of which is analysed in real time. A ‘virtual coach’ gives Jumièges le Mesnil advice on how to improve that all-important swing but there are also two real- http://jumieges.ucpa.com/ life professionals as well. No matter what your age or level of golf, this new sporting technology means that you can imagine that you are playing on some Golf Indoor, of the world's most famous links, virtually, of course! 5 Quai de Boisguilbert, Rouen www.golfindoor76.fr Is it fair to say that the CREA is a golfer’s paradise? (ACB): That is what we are aiming for. We have some first rate courses with a Golf Training Centre Bois-Guillaume great choice of environment and difficulty. All the courses are within easy 3001, rue Herbeuse access of Beauvais airport which is just an hour's drive from Rouen. Beauvais www.golf-bois-guillaume.fr is a hub for low-cost airlines and has lots of connections to Scandinavia, which boasts 2 million potential golfing visitors! The Tourist Office is making every Rouen Forest Golf Club effort to publicise our golf courses to the Scandinavian market. In September 2011 the office will be in Copenhagen to promote the CREA to groups of spe- Bosc-Guérard cialised travel agents and golf tour operators. We have a basic offer starting at www.golfrouenlaforetverte.com around 210 € per person. For this tarif*, golfers get one night's bed and break- fast, a shared double room in a 5 star hotel in Rouen City Centre, an evening Rouen Golf Club and Course meal per person (drinks are not included) and access to a golf course or indoor http://www.golfderouen.fr golf for two.
*The price does not include: transport, supplement for single room (90 € per night), dinner drinks and travel insurance.
91 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page92
Paradise is just outside Rouen in the Domaine de Forges Welcome to the Forges-les-Eaux leisure complex just 30 minutes from Rouen, which offers visitors a beautiful natural setting and incomparable facilities including a splendid casino, golf course, spa, restaurants and hotels...
Receptions The Domaine organises splendid seminars and receptions which are always a success thanks to the nine well-appointed meeting rooms, the Domaine's comfortable hotels, fine restaurants and, of course, the casino...
Spa The waters here at Forges-les-Eaux have been known for over a thousand years. Pools, hammams, jacuzzis, fitness and massage rooms are waiting for you in the spacious and well-equipped Forges Hotel spa where visitors can enjoy a range of beauty treatments, relaxing massage, hydrotherapy and so on. Open daily from 9am to 11pm. 92 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page93
Take time to enjoy...…
Casino With its 320 slot machines taking stakes from 2 centimes to 10 euros, roulette tables, blackjack, stud poker, Texas Hold’em poker, the casino has the game for you. Open daily.
Hotels In Forges-les-Eaux you can choose between two 3-star and a 4-star hotel with a total of 143 rooms.… The Forges Hotel is a modern well-appointed establishment, the Continental is smaller and has a cosy, typically Normandy-style decor while the Folie du Bois des Fontaines is a 18th century manor with a delightful, romantic elegant rooms.…
Restaurants The Domaine boasts three restaurants to suit all tastes from brasserie-style to fine gourmet dining. The Bistro, which is in the Casino itself, offers excellent chef's specials, L’Escalier, under capable chef Antoine Leroyer, offers a true gourmet experience with the best in local produce while the Table de Forges gives guests the chance to choose from a magnificent buffet spread in a calm and relaxing setting.…
Golf The Domaine de Forges offers two golf courses: the Saint-Saëns with a full 18 holes, hotel and restaurant and the practice and putting greens near the Forges Hotel and the Folie du Bois des Fontaines.
93 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page94 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page95
Sighild and her City Pass 7h30: After a good night's sleep at the comfortable ‘Ermitage Bouquet’ (Logis de France, 3 chimneys), Sighild is ready to sally forth in the footsteps of her ancestor Rollon… 58 rue Bouquet, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 32 12 30 40 City Pass Plus: 20% reduction on the cost of bed and breakfast (not available at weekends nor during school holidays). free at last! Sighild is off in search of her Viking ancestors… Rouen City Pass will be her guide! She is thrilled that this little card which only costs 10 euros will unlock the city and give her up to 50% off certain goods. Our dishy Dane with the flaming Viking hair is all set to conquer Rouen. All she has to do now is raid the 200 or so City Pass partners and plunder the best offers… www.monpassenliberte.com
10h: Sighild enjoys a mokka coffee at ‘Couleur Café’. 239 rue Eau-de-Robec, Rouen. Tel. +33 9 81 85 12 07 City Pass Plus: 10% reduction (tea and coffee packs).
11h15: Sighild says the soap is super! She loves the sun-filled goods here at the ‘Occitane’! 68 rue des Carmes, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 36 67 81 City Pass Plus: Occitan 10% reduction on any purchase 95 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page96
14h: Thanks to the web café, Sighild can send a long mail back to her sweetheart in Denmark telling him of her adventures. 16 rue du Général-Leclerc, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 32 08 04 25 City Pass Plus: 10% reduction on meals and snacks
Midi: ‘Dame Cakes’, where Sighild tucks into one of their perfect fruit crumbles. 15h: At ‘Romy’ Sighild buys 70 rue Saint-Romain, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 07 49 31 herself a little colour dress. City Pass Plus: Complimentary coffee for 40 rue Saint-Nicolas, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 36 84 19 every lunchtime menu. City Pass Plus: 10% reduction.
18h: Sighild takes time out on one of ‘Relaxatome's’ futons. 160 rue Eau-de-Robec, Rouen. Tel. +33 9 52 88 70 54 City Pass Plus: 10% reduction on a shiatsu relaxation session (60 minutes).
16h40: Our international hairdresser Éric Bachelet works his magic for Sighild (branches in Rouen and Los Angeles). 12 place de la Pucelle, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 71 23 33 City Pass Plus: 5% reduction. 96 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page97
20h30: Sighild enjoys her dinner at the ‘Bistroquet Chez Cédric’, in Rouen's antiques and antiquarian area. Today's special: Pork chops with pan-fried foie gras. 220 rue Martainville, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 32 08 09 60 City Pass Plus: Complimentary kir aperitif.
22h: Off to the movies at the ‘Docks 76 Pathé cinema’ A fabulous night out but her Rouen trip is not over yet … Centre commercial Docks 76, boulevard Ferdinand-de- Sighild has another lovely day ahead of her thanks to the Lesseps, Rouen. Tel. 0 892 696 696. Rouen Seine Valley City Pass giving her the keys to our City Pass Plus: Seats reduced to €5 instead of €9.60. beautiful city!
9h30: Pretty Miss Sighild stays at Rouen's Hotel de Québec – so named because the Vikings discovered North America before Columbus?? Alive Hôtel de Québec** 18-24, rue de Québec, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 70 09 38. City Pass Plus: 10% reduction on the room price or complimentary breakfast (on direct reservations only).
10h30: At ‘Ici et Ailleurs’, Sighild enjoys the show. 31 rue Damiette, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 62 18 46 City Pass Plus: 5% reduction on the bill. 97 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page98
17h: Sighild shoots a strike in Rouen's bowling hall. 130 rue de Constantine, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 71 24 47 City Pass Plus: A complimentary session for every session purchased (except on Fridays, Saturdays and evenings before public holidays after 20h).
13h: The delicious and delightful ‘Mes Mets’ bistro, where Sighild adores their pork loin with pimento. 37 rue aux Ours, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 89 97 58 City Pass Plus: 10% reduction to the bill.
21h: Sighild samples a glass of wine in the ‘P’tit Zinc’. 20, place du Vieux Marché, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 89 39 69 City Pass Plus: A complimentary glass of champagne.
16h: Sighild does a Madonna in the Virgin Megastore. Centre commercial Docks 76, boulevard Ferdinand-de-Lesseps, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 32 10 80 40. City Pass Plus: 10% reduction on selected merchandise. 2h: Sighild is absolutely exhausted, tired out …but delighted with her busy Normandy day. Accor Suite Novotel Rouen Normandie*** Îlot Pasteur, 10 quai de Boisguilbert, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 32 10 58 68. City Card Plus: Private underground parking
23h: In the fashionable bar ‘L’Euro’, Sighild savours a last cocktail ... 41 place du Vieux Marché, Rouen. Tel. +33 2 35 07 55 66 City Pass Plus: A complimentary cocktail. 98 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page99
Rouen, Seine Valley, Normandy Events Calendar 2011/2012 JUNE 2011 French National Holiday celebration OCTOBER 2011 12th annual Trans European and fireworks display Arts Festival ‘Autumn in Normandy’ Music festival (in CREA) Programme complet des Gouy (13/07) Throughout Upper Normandy (October- All about Art: Rouen Diocesan Art November) manifestations à Rouen p49 Normandy Classical Music Festival Festival "Les Musicales de Normandie" Farmers’ and Craft Market A celebration of diverse art forms in churches Bihorel (01-02/10) throughout the Diocese Exhibition: Various churches and Abbeys throughout the Alain Sicard region Mineral and Fossil Fair Rouen International Fair, Rouen Fine Arts Museum, (10/06 - 04/09) Halle aux Toiles de Rouen (01-02/10) Rouen District Council Congress (30/03-09/04) French Nationwide Cultural Event: AUGUST 2011 Militaria Militray surplus and bric a ‘Get into gardens’ (3-05/06) Normandy Classical Music Festival brac Old weapons, military memorabilia etc. Heritage and book Festival "Les Musicales de Normandie" Rouen District Council Congress (02/10) Saint-Ouen Abbey, Rouen Exhibition: Various churches and Abbeys throughout the Annual Gourmet and Normandy Food International Roller Skating « Fleurs de tout âge : la nature apprivoisée » region Festival Quai Jean Moulin – Rouen Antiquities Museum, Rouen (14/06- 30/09) Saint-Sauveur’s day Fair rue Rollon Rouen (15-16/10) Youth Theatre and dramatic arts Festival ‘Printemps de l'Aubette’ Sahurs Tennis Tournament festival Franqueville-Saint-Pierre Saint-Léger-du-Bourg-Denis (April-May-June) "Enfants de la Terre" Annual Rouen Carnival A Festival of Music SEPTEMBER 2011 Bois-Guillaume APRIL 2012 Saint-Aubin-Épinay (12/06) Normandy Classical Music Festival Saint-Romain Fun Fair "Les Musicales de Normandie" Rouen Seine River bank quayside (21/10- Plant Fair Hautot-sur-Seine "Animaijuin" Various churches and Abbeys throughout the 20/11) Rouen International Fair Petit-Quevilly (18/06) region Exhibition: Vera Molnar Rouen District Council Congress "les Bakayades" Festival International Organ Festival Rouen Fine Arts Museum, temporary exhibition (30/03-09/04) Grand-Quevilly (29/05-19/06) Saint-Ouen Abbey, Rouen (every Sunday in rooms Springtime Festival September) End of October - January 2012 Notre-Dame-de-Bondeville Saint-Jean’s day Fair Harvest Festival All about Art: Rouen Diocesan Art Mont-Saint-Aignan (18/06) NOVEMBER 2011 Boos (4/09) Festival Saint-Romain Fun Fair Midsummer Fair Bird’s fair A celebration of diverse art forms in churches Petit-Couronne (18-19/06) Rouen Seine River bank quayside (21/10- throughout the Diocese Belbeuf (04/09) 20/11) French Nationwide Cultural Event: Rouen Autumn Season flea market Rouen Springtime Festival Fun packed program: Free Museum entry French National “All Day Music Rouen District Council Congress DECEMBER 2011 Day” (21/06) (09-11/09) and cultural heritage events (21/04 - 02/06) Christmas Market and Telethon Spring Festival: Printemps de Rouen Books and Reading Fair, and Saint-Gorgon’s day Fair Grand-Couronne (02-03/12) Workshop Canteleu (09-10/09) l'Aubette Rouen Frost Fair Festival in Saint-Léger-de-Bourg-Denis (April- Halle aux Toiles de Rouen (25-26/06) Saint-Siméon’s day Fair Marché et festivités de Noël à Rouen May-June) Sotteville Street theatre and music Déville-lès-Rouen (10-11/09) Childrens’ book Festival festival "Viva Cité" Retro Photo Market South bank, Rouen (3-5/12) MAY 2012 Sotteville-Lès-Rouen, bois de la Garenne Halle au Toiles de Rouen (11/09) Rouen 24 hours Powerboat Races (24 - 26/06) "Rouen Impressed / Interior JANUARY 2012 On the river Seine in Rouen (30/04 to 01/05) French Nationwide Cultural Event: landscapes" Cinema from the South Festival Rouen Springtime Festival Seine Maritime cinemas (21-28/01) “Enjoy the Silver screen” film (16/09-13/11) Fun packed program: free Museums entries festival (26/06-3/07) French Nationwide Cultural Event Rouen Winter flea market and cultural heritage events, (from 21/04 to Exhibition: "Jumièges végétale" Rouen District Council Congress 02/06) National Heritage Days (20-22/01) and Katarina Axelson (17-18/09) Spring Festival: Printemps de Abbaye de Jumièges (25/06-02/10) Le Mesnil Roller FEBRUARY 2012 l'Aubette Music Festival ‘Archéojazz’ Le-Mesnil-Esnard (18/09) French Cup Saint-Léger-du-Bourg-Denis (April-May-June) Blainville Crevon (28/06-01/07) Book Festival Rouen skating rink The 25th annual Circus Arts Festival Rouen (18/09) Independant Normandy Artists Grand-Quevilly JULY 2011 Comic-strip and Cartoon Fair Halle aux Toiles de Rouen Painters and Painting Workshop Rouen on Sea Summer Festival Darnétal (24-25/09) Winter Fair La Bouille Enjoy all the fun of the seaside quayside! Exhibition: Francesco Mazzola, dit Bonsecours French Nationwide Event : (29/06-24/07) Le PARMESAN (1503-1540), Dessins Visit a Museum tonight Thursday pm Rock’s de l’école nationale supérieure des MARCH 2012 Festival "yes or notes" (Every Thursday in July) beaux-arts, Normandy Creative Workshop Saint-Étienne-du-Rouvray "Les Fresques Darnétalaises" Fine Arts Museum, drawing rooms Rouen town centre (Halle aux Toiles 03 - The 4th Garden Seed Festival Darnétal Town Festival (September – December 2011) 26/03) (Jardin des Plantes) Darnétal (8-12/07) Exhibition: Gérard David (1460- French Nationwide event: Cliff Race Moulineaux Bastille Day and Fireworks 1523), La Vierge entre les Vierges 14th Annual festival ‘Printemps des Joan of Arc Days and Festival (14/07 and 13/07 dates to be decided in Fine Arts Museum, temporary exhibition Poètes’ Rouen each commune) rooms - Autumn 2011 For full details and further information online: www.rouenvalleedeseine.com 99 5-MusarderUK_Mise en page 24/05/111 08:32 Page100 100
shopping centre shopping Saint-Sever new The Addresses 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page101 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page102 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:32 Page103 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:33 Page104 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:33 Page105 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:33 Page106 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:33 Page107 5-Musarder UK_Mise en page 1 24/05/11 08:33 Page108
Rouen and Seine Valley District Tourist Office Normandy #### The Tourist Office offers you a wide range of services: Information about the city and its surroundings (museums, monuments, entertainment, sports, Rouen leisure and practical information) also on the rest of France (brochures, accommodation, etc...). Local and national tickets (for shows, concerts, festivals...). Reservation of hotel rooms, bed and breakfast accommodation and self-catering cottages for Rouen and its region. Guided tours of Rouen's historic centre for groups and individuals. Excursions for groups and individuals, Audio guide throughout Normandy. Conference organisation. Gift Shop : a selection of regional products, ideas for gifts, souvenirs: apple flavoured barley sugar, toffees made with delicious Isigny butter, cider, calvados, Rouen gift boxes, impressionist visit or ‘Heula’ product range, books and stationery. Thanks to the audio guide, visit the historical centre by Contact the main desk.: yourself. Tel. +33 (0) 2 32 08 32 40 fax +33 (0) 2 32 08 32 44 Available in six languages it cannot be simpler to visit [email protected] - www.rouenvalleedeseine.com the city by yourself or with your family! Just ask our front desk for an audio guide which will be given with a map. Marked steps on the pavement and the narrator's voice will reveal secrets of the Tourist Office**** monuments of Rouen and the artists it inspired. Opening Hours Take your time to have a good look! From the Cathedral to place du Vieux Marché, passing • May to September : Monday to Saturday the Gros Horloge and the Aître Saint Maclou, 9 am to 7 pm offer yourself a cultural journey through the Capital Sundays and bank holidays of Normandy. Day rental of an audio guide 9:30 am to 12:30 pm (according to the front desk opening time): €5. and 2 pm to 6 pm. Reservation to the • Rest of the Year : Monday to Saturday Rouen and Seine Valley 9.30 am to 12:30 pm District Tourist Office Normandy and 1:30 pm to 6 pm. +33 (0) 2 32 08 32 40 Closed on Sundays and bank holidays except for special events. Exchange office all currencies Tel. : +33 (0) 2 35 89 48 60 Purchase or sell travellers-checks We buy foreign bank notes which were quoted before the euro Opening hours: from May to September: Monday to Saturday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 pm to 6.30 pm. The rest of the year: Monday to Saturday, 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 pm to 5.30 pm. Public holidays (when the Tourist Office is open): 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 pm to 6 pm. Closed on Sundays.
This magazine is published by the Rouen and Seine Valley District Tourist Office Normandy 25, place de la Cathédrale - BP 666 - 76008 Rouen cedex 1 Tel. : + 33 (0)2 32 08 32 40 - Fax : + 33 (0)2 32 08 32 44 - [email protected] www.rouenvalleedeseine.com Editor : Guy Pessiot Style and design : Bruno Voisin - Veo Communication Managing editor : Yves Leclerc Advertising : B&L Associés, Normandy representative : Fabienne Bougault Journalists : Stéphane Nappez Legal deposit : second term of 2011 Photographer (except if otherwise stated) : Jean-François Lange ISSN : in process Sub-editor and illustrations : Marion Rabiller Printed by : PrintCorp Group Copyright: Mai 2011 subject to permission from the Rouen and Seine Valley district Tourist Office Normandy. The information provided here was believed to be correct at the time of going to press. It is not legally binding and is intended as general information only and Rouen Seine Valley Tourist Office accepts no liability relating to its use.
RECEPTION AND INFORMATION OF TOURISM OFFICES This mark shows conformity with the standard NF X 50-730 and the certification rules NF 237. It guarantees that the ease of access, on site customer reception, by telephone and mail, condition of the location, available and consultable information, availability, com- petence and training of the personnel, management and customer satisfaction are mo- nitored regularly by AFNOR Certification - 11, rue Francis de Préssensé – 93571 LA PLAINE SAINT DENIS Cedex – France – www.marque-nf.com