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PAGE YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE PLAN Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 2 48 YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip ROAD and insider tips Welcome to ...... 2 Map...... 4 Welcome to 20 Top Experiences...... 6 Peru Need to Know...... 16 What’s New...... 18 COUNTRY • The original Amazon Basin If You Like...... 19 16 • Comprehensive p436 Need to lost civilizations. Visit remote communi- AdventurousNorth Month by Month...... 21 All Things Ancient ties and see how old ways live on. Immerse • Know A visit to isn’t complete yourself, and you will leave Peru a little without a pilgrimage to the glorious LanguageInca closer to the past. citadel of Machu Currency Picchu, but, the truth» Spanish,is, Aymara & Coast this feted site» is Nuevo just a sol  ash (S) in a 5000-yearQuechua Pleasure & the Palate history of peoples. Walk through the dust- Northern Some cultures are haunted by the existen- ed remnants of a vast ancient city at Chan tial. For many Peruvians, the question that Itineraries...... 24 Chan, the largest pre-Columbian ruins gnaws at them daily would seem simple: in all the Americas. Fly over the puzz ling p307 what to eat? Ceviche with slivers of  ery geoglyphs etched into the arid earth at chili and corn, stews simmered for hours Highlands When to Go Nazca. Or venture into the rugged wilds Your inDaily beer and cilantro, velvety Amazonian 18 that hem the stalwart fortress of . chocolate. In the capital of Latin cooking, ’s great museums, with pricelessBudget ce- so many choices can be perplexing. Great ramics, gold and some of the  nest tex- geographic and cultural diversity has Peru Outdoors...... 30 tiles in the world, reveal in full detail Budget the less than p403 brought ingredients – ranging from high- sophistication, skill and passion of theseS130 land tubers to tropical jungle fruits – to a » Inexpensive hotel room or dorm bed: S25-85 Trekking the Inca Trail.... 36 » Set lunches: What’s For this new edition of Peru, our less than S10; Huaraz & the # supermarkets have Trujillo year-round takeout authors haveGO huntedHuaraz down the # GO May–Sep » Entry fee to historic fresh, the transformed, the hot sights: average S10 Cordilleras

Travel with Children...... 41 New # Midrange Lima and the happening.GO year-round These are Cuzco some of our favorites. For up-to-# GO Jun–Sep S130– p362 390 the-minute recommendations,# see » Double room in Desert, dry climate GO Jun–Sep midrange hotel: S130 Regions at a Glance...... 44 Tropical climate, rain year-round lonelyplanet.com/peru.Semi-tropical climate, wet & dry seasons » Multicourse lunch at Warm to hot summers, mild winters midrange restaurant: Central S30 High Season Shoulder Low Season » Group tours from: (Jun–Aug) (Sep–Nov & (Dec–Feb) S104 Mar–May) Highlands 30 » Dry season in » Rainy season in Top End more La SirenaAndean d’Juan, highlands Máncora» Spring and fall the highlands than Transoceanic Servingand eastern yellow curryweather tiraditoin the »(sashimi) The Inca Trail rainforest highlands closes during S390 p269 and» grilled Best time for  sh with» Ideal formango-pepper less- February for clean up » Double room in top- Highway, Amazon festivals and crowded visits end hotel: S250 chutney, 6 this seafood restaurant is »a Highdeli- season for Lima highland sports, » September to the coast and beach » Private city tour: Basin cious additionincluding treks to Máncora.November for(p good353 ) activities from S150 per person » Busiest time due to rainforest trekking » Very rainy in the » Fine restaurant Cuzco & the Peru’s biggest construction NorthernNorth HighlandsAmerican and Lodges Amazon, lasting dinner: from S70 p50 European holidays through May project put a controversial New to this rugged region, decked- out jungle lodges make overnighting paved highway from Cuzco to the a 7 treat. Check out the Gocta Lodge southern Amazon, connecting (p 423 ), Kentitambo (p 426 ) and Pumarinri p192 and creating access to Amazon Lodge (p432 ). DISCOVER SHOESTRING PHRASEBOOK formerly isolated rainforest. (p 441 ) Los Tambos Hostal, South This  ne new boutique hotel with gourmet breakfasts and thought- • Best-of • Big trips, Lake 8ful touches sits just off Arequipa’s main Coast square. (p 148 ) small budgetsArequipa Peru Outdoors Noche en Blanco, Lima • Photo-packed Titicaca Lima’s take on White Nights, this Ayacucho’s Food Scene p102 nighttime art and music festival en- & Canyon Scale icy Andean peaks. Raft one of the Barrio Gastronómico is a whole city Multicountry compasses 2 parks and venues throughout • Inspirational • p167 Top 5 Wildlife world’s deepest canyons. Surf the heavenly neighborhood dedicated to Andean Watching Spots Pacific curlers.Mira oresWalk inthe early flanks May. of a smolder- (p 22 ) cuisine: 9 from rustic eateries known as Country Parque Nacional Manu Jaguars, tapirs and ing volcano Huellas known de locally los asDinosaurios, a living deity. near recreos to Plaza Moré, a courtyard full of monkeys inhabit this expansive rainforest With its breathtaking, diverse landscapes, sensational eats. (p 295 ) Peru is Huaraz a natural adventure hub. History p137 park, among the continent’s wildest, deep in A 2009 excavation by highway build- the Amazon goes deep here—you may be mountain bik- Museo Julio C Tello, Paracas Reserve ers turned up more than 100 foot- Cañón del Colca Andean condors glide over ing routes 3 used by Inca messengers or hik- Opened in 2012, this refurbished this rugged canyon, the second deepest in ing throughprints terraced and fossilized fields along remains ancient of at least 12 museum contains ancient artifacts the world trade routes.species Yet of even prehistoric then, the animals. fledgling (p 398 ) found 10 at the adjacent archaeological site Islas Ballestas Colonies of honking sea status of some outdoor activities here means and necropolis. (p 112 ) lions and penguins claim these rocky Paci c that, in certain Casa-Hacienda times and places, San you José, can get near outcrops off Peru’s south coast a wholeChincha mountain, sandy shore or complex Lodges Parque Nacional Huascarán Giant Puya of ruins to yourself.Reopening So gear post-2007 up and take earthquake, the On a remote island, Casa Andina raimondii plants burst with  owers while Band-Aids. You’rethis inex–slave for one wildestate ride. has been sympa- Isla Suasi (p 184 ) pampers with Looking for other travel resources? vicuñas and viscachas bustle around the 4thetically renovated with true artisanal 11spa services immersed in nature. Luxury high alpine landscape of the Cordillera skill. Worth a detour from Lima. (p 107 ) boutique option Titilaka (p 186 ) is both Blanca Tumbes A rare mangrove forest on the Hiking Selvámanos & Trekking whimsical and wondrous. northernmost coast, home to crocodiles, Pack the hikingThe boots country’s because most the varietyinnovative of music trails in Peru is downright staggering. The Hotel El Molino, Lunahuana seabirds,  amingos and crabs festival mesmerizes with renegade This plush new hotel is set in lush main trekking 5 centers and rock-electronica are Cuzco and Areq- in a gorgeous uipa in cumbiathe southern Andes, and Huaraz in grounds with swimming pools, on the north.Central Hikers Amazon will find national many easily park. ac- (p462 ) 12the edge of Lunahuaná right next to the cessible trails around Peru’s archaeological Río Cañete. (p 106 ) ruins, which are also the final destinations for more challenging trekking routes. Peru’s most famous trek is GETthe Inca Trail MORE FROM YOUR TRIP VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO PAGE to . Limited permits means PAGE this guided-only trek sells out months in ad- vance. For those who haven’t planned so far UNDERSTANDin advance, there are worthwhileLearn alternative about the big picture, so you SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP routes. In addition, other possibilities around Cuzco include the spectacular six-day trek 487 around the venerated Ausangate (6372m), 529 551 which will take you over 5000m passes, at the website for the US through huge herds of alpacas,can and past tiny make sense of what you see embassy (lima.usembassy. gov/acs_peru.html). Rural PERU GUIDE areas may have the most basic medical services. You may have to pay in cash, regardless of whether you have travel insurance. Life-threatening medi- cal problems may require Peru Today...... 488 Directory A–Z...... 530 evacuation. For a list of medi- cal evacuation and travel insurance companies, see belief systems the website of the US State Department (travel.state. (% of population) gov/travel/tips/brochures/ History...... 490 490 Transportation...... 543 brochures_1215.html). Pharmacies are known as farmacias or boticas, identi- fied by a green or red cross. They offer most of the medi- Life in Peru...... 505 Health...... 551 cations available in other 81 13 Health countries. Diseases found in Peru » adhesive or paper tape Infectious Peru’s Cuisine...... 507 Language...... 554 include mosquito-borne » scissors, safety pins, Diseases infections such as malaria, tweezers Many of the following diseas- LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS yellow fever and dengue MAGAZINE es are spread by mosquitoes. fever, although these are rare » thermometer Take precautions to minimize Roman Catholic Evangelical in temperate regions. » pocketknife your chances of being bitten Ancient Peru...... 512 ForIndex travel information,...... Location-based 564 Guidebooks The only required vac- » insect repellentFor containing travel stories, (p 552 ). These precautions cine for Peru is yellow fever, DEET (for the skin) also protect against other History and that’s only if you’re insect-borne diseases like In 1532, when Francisco Pizarro disembarked on the Peruvian coast with advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your readerarriving from a yellow-fever- » insect sprayinspiration containing & ideas Baronellois (Oroya fever), 6 infected country in Africa or permethrin (for clothing, the intention of conquering the area in the name of God and the Span- Leishmaniasis and Chagas’ the Americas. It is strongly tents and bed nets) Indigenous Peru...... 517 ish crown, the Andes had already been witness to the epic rise and fall Map Legend...... 574 disease. chapters advised, though, for those » sunblock of civilizations. There had been Chavín, dating back to 1000 BC – not Other lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooksvisiting the jungle, as are lonelyplanet.com/magazine » oral rehydration salts Cholera Most Mag- a civilization in the classic sense, but an era when people in the Andes malaria pills. » iodine tablets (for water An intestinal infection, cholera is acquired through nificent began sharing a cultural iconography. There were the militaristic Wari, purification) Music & the Arts...... 520 Historic who, starting at about AD 600, took over an area that stretched from contaminated food or Churches Medical Checklist » acetazolamide (Diamox; water, resulting in profuse Chiclayo to Cuzco, building a network of roadways in the process. And, for altitude sickness) diarrhea, which may cause » » antibiotics Iglesia de Santo of course, there were the Incas who administered a sprawling kingdom life-threatening dehydration. Domingo, Lima that began somewhere in southern and ended in the middle » antidiarrheal drugs (eg Treatment includes oral rehy- The Natural World...... 522 » Catedral de of present-day . loperamide) Websites dration solution and possibly Ayacucho » acetaminophen (Tylenol) antibiotics. The arrival of Pizarro would see the beginning of one of Peru’s most STAY IN TOUCH World Health Organiza- or aspirin » Iglesia de La protracted shifts. The conquest changed everything about life in the An- tion (www.who.int/ith/) Free Dengue Fever » anti-inflammatory drugs Compañía de des: the economics, the political systems, the religion and the language. download International A viral infection, dengue is Jesus, Cuzco lonelyplanet.com/contact (eg ibuprofen) Travel and Health. transmitted by mosquitoes To some degree, Peru’s modern history has been a series of aftershocks which breed primarily in » Iglesia de » antihistamines (for hay MD Travel Health (www. from that seismic clash between Inca and Spaniard. It is a conflict that THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHEDmdtravelhealth.com) BY Travel- puddles and artificial water San Pedro, fever and allergic reactions) health recommendations. containers. It is especially remains deeply embedded in the Peruvian psyche. Yet, its circumstances » antibacterial ointment Andahuaylillas common in densely popu- (eg Bactroban; for cuts and twitter.com/ » Monasterio de have produced incredible things: new cultures, new races, new voices, lated, urban environments, AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray,abrasions) Victoria 3011 Santa Catalina, new cuisine – ultimately, a new civilization. Availability of including Lima and Cuzco. Arequipa » steroid cream or cortisone Flu-like symptoms include (for poison ivy and other Health Care fever, musclelonelyplanet aches, joint » Catedral de Earliest Settlers %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 allergic rashes) Lima has high-quality 24- pains, headaches, nausea Trujillo There is some debate about how long, exactly, there has been a human Carolyn McCarthy» bandages, gauze, gauze hour medical clinics, and and vomiting, often followed by a rash. The body aches presence in Peru. Some scholars have suggested that humans occupied rolls English-speaking doctors the Andes as far backISBN978-1-74179-921-7 as 14,000 BC (with at least one academic reporting and dentists. See the guide may be quite uncomfortable, that it could precede even that early date). The most definitive archaeo- Paper in this book is certified 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ logical evidence, however, puts humans in the region at around 8000 BC. USA Caves in Lauricocha (near Huánuco) and Toquepala (outside of Tacna) 99525 against the Forest Stewardship lonelyplanet bear paintings that record hunting scenes from that era. The latter shows Carolina A Miranda,%510 250 6400, to Kevinll free 800 27 5Raub, 8555, fax 51 0Brendan 893 8572 Sainsbury, a group of hunters cornering and killing what appears to be a group of Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes camelid animals. environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 8000 BC c 3000 BC 3000 BC Luke Waterson newsletter Hunting scenes are Settlement of Peru’s Potatoes, squash, cot- management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 painted in caves9 by 781741coastal oases begins; ton, corn, 799217 lúcuma fruit hunter-gatherers some of the  rst and quinoa begin to be near Huánuco in the structures are built at domesticated; at this central highlands and the ceremonial center point, llamas, alpacas in Toquepala in the of , north of and guinea pigs had south – early evidence present-day Lima. likely been tamed for of humans in Peru. 1000 years. PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 48 ROAD and insider tips

Amazon Basin p436 North Coast Northern p307 Highlands p403 Huaraz & the Cordilleras p362 Central Highlands Lima p269 p50 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley p192 South Lake Coast Arequipa p102 Titicaca & Canyon p167 Country p137

PAGE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP 529 551 at the website for the US embassy (lima.usembassy. gov/acs_peru.html). Rural GUIDE areas may have the most basic medical services. You may have to pay in cash, regardless of whether you have travel insurance. Life-threatening medi- cal problems may require Directory A–Z...... 530 evacuation. For a list of medi- cal evacuation and travel insurance companies, see the website of the US State Department (travel.state. gov/travel/tips/brochures/ Transportation...... 543 brochures_1215.html). Pharmacies are known as farmacias or boticas, identi- fied by a green or red cross. They offer most of the medi- Health...... 551 cations available in other Health countries. Diseases found in Peru » adhesive or paper tape Infectious Language...... 554 include mosquito-borne » scissors, safety pins, Diseases infections such as malaria, tweezers Many of the following diseas- yellow fever and dengue es are spread by mosquitoes. fever, although these are rare » thermometer Take precautions to minimize in temperate regions. » pocketknife your chances of being bitten Index...... 564 The only required vac- » insect repellent containing (p 552 ). These precautions cine for Peru is yellow fever, DEET (for the skin) also protect against other and that’s only if you’re insect-borne diseases like arriving from a yellow-fever- » insect spray containing Baronellois (Oroya fever), infected country in Africa or permethrin (for clothing, Leishmaniasis and Chagas’ the Americas. It is strongly tents and bed nets) Map Legend...... 574 disease. advised, though, for those » sunblock visiting the jungle, as are » oral rehydration salts Cholera malaria pills. » iodine tablets (for water An intestinal infection, cholera is acquired through purification) contaminated food or Medical Checklist » acetazolamide (Diamox; water, resulting in profuse for altitude sickness) diarrhea, which may cause » antibiotics life-threatening dehydration. » antidiarrheal drugs (eg Treatment includes oral rehy- loperamide) Websites dration solution and possibly » acetaminophen (Tylenol) antibiotics. World Health Organiza- or aspirin tion (www.who.int/ith/) Free Dengue Fever » anti-inflammatory drugs download International A viral infection, dengue is (eg ibuprofen) Travel and Health. transmitted by mosquitoes » antihistamines (for hay MD Travel Health (www. which breed primarily in THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHEDfever and allergic reactions) mdtravelhealth.com) BY Travel- puddles and artificial water health recommendations. containers. It is especially » antibacterial ointment common in densely popu- (eg Bactroban; for cuts and lated, urban environments, abrasions) including Lima and Cuzco. » steroid cream or cortisone Availability of Flu-like symptoms include (for poison ivy and other Health Care fever, muscle aches, joint allergic rashes) Lima has high-quality 24- pains, headaches, nausea Carolyn McCarthy» bandages, gauze, gauze hour medical clinics, and and vomiting, often followed by a rash. The body aches rolls English-speaking doctors and dentists. See the guide may be quite uncomfortable, Carolina A Miranda, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Luke Waterson Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favorite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

LIMA �����������������������������50 El Valle de los Piquillacta & ���258 Volcanes ������������������������������� 165 AROUND LIMA ����������������������99 Andahuaylillas �������������������259 Cañón del Cotahuasi ��������� 165 �������������������������99 Raqchi ���������������������������������259 Raqchi to Abra La Raya �����259 Southern Beaches �������������100 LAKE TITICACA ����������167 CUZCO TO THE JUNGLE ����259 Carretera Central ����������������101 Juliaca ���������������������������������168 Cuzco to Ivochote ������������ 260 Around Juliaca �������������������169 SOUTH COAST ��������� 102 Cuzco to Manu ������������������ 264 Puno ��������������������������������������171 Pucusana �����������������������������103 Cuzco to Puerto Around Puno ����������������������� 179 Asia ���������������������������������������103 Maldonado ������������������������� 264 Lake Titicaca Islands ����������181 Cañete & Cerro Azul ���������103 CUZCO TO THE Capachica Peninsula & CENTRAL HIGHLANDS ������265 Lunahuaná ��������������������������105 Around ���������������������������������184 Cuzco to Abancay �������������265 Chincha �������������������������������106 South-Shore Towns �����������186 Choquequirau ���������������������265 Pisco �������������������������������������108 Bolivian Shore ��������������������188 Paracas (El Chaco) ������������ 111 Abancay �������������������������������265 Andahuaylas �����������������������267 Ica ������������������������������������������115 CUZCO & THE Huacachina �������������������������120 SACRED VALLEY ������192 CENTRAL Palpa ��������������������������������������121 CUZCO ����������������������������������194 HIGHLANDS �������������269 Nazca & Around ������������������121 AROUND CUZCO ����������������232 LIMA TO TARMA ������������������272 Chala �����������������������������������128 Sacsaywamán ���������������������232 San Pedro de Casta & Camaná �������������������������������128 THE SACRED VALLEY ��������233 Marcahuasi �������������������������272 Mollendo �����������������������������129 Pisac �������������������������������������234 La Oroya �������������������������������272 Moquegua ���������������������������130 Pisac to Urubamba �����������237 Tarma �����������������������������������272 Ilo ������������������������������������������131 Urubamba ���������������������������238 RÍO MANTARO VALLEY ��������275 Tacna ����������������������������������� 132 Salinas �������������������������������� 240 Jauja �������������������������������������276 Chinchero �������������������������� 240 Concepción �������������������������277 AREQUIPA & CANYON COUNTRY ������������������137 & Maras ������������������� 241 Huancayo �����������������������������277 �������������������242 AREQUIPA ����������������������������138 THE SOUTHERN MACHU PICCHU & VALLEYS ������������������������������285 CANYON COUNTRY ������������156 THE INCA TRAIL ������������������246 Huancavelica ���������������������� 286 Reserva Nacional Aguas Calientes �����������������246 Ayacucho ���������������������������� 289 Salinas y Aguada Blanca ����������������������������������157 Machu Picchu �������������������� 250 NORTH OF TARMA ������������� 299 Cañón del Colca �����������������158 The Inca Trail �����������������������256 Acobamba �������������������������� 299 CUZCO TO PUNO ����������������258 San Pedro de Cajas ���������� 299 Petroglyphs �������������������������164 Tipón �����������������������������������258 Junín & Around ������������������ 300 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Cerro de Pasco (Cerro) �����301 Carhuaz �������������������������������387 CENTRAL AMAZON ����������� 459 Huánuco �����������������������������301 Yungay �������������������������������� 388 La Merced & La Unión ������������������������������ 304 Lagunas Llanganuco �������� 390 San Ramón ������������������������ 460 Tantamayo �������������������������� 305 Caraz ���������������������������������� 390 Satipo �����������������������������������461 Oxapampa �������������������������� 462 Tingo María ������������������������ 305 SOUTH OF HUARAZ ����������� 394 Puerto Bermúdez �������������� 463 Chiquián ������������������������������ 394 Pucallpa ������������������������������ 463 NORTH COAST ���������307 Llamac ���������������������������������395 Barranca ���������������������������� 308 Yarinacocha �������������������������467 CALLEJÓN DE Casma ���������������������������������310 CONCHUCOS ��������������������� 396 NORTHERN AMAZON ������� 469 Chimbote ����������������������������� 312 Chavín de Huántar ������������ 396 Yurimaguas ������������������������ 469 Trujillo ���������������������������������� 313 North of Chavín ���������������� 399 Lagunas �������������������������������470 Around Trujillo �������������������322 Reserva Nacional Huanchaco �������������������������326 NORTHERN Pacaya-Samiria ������������������� 471 Puerto Chicama HIGHLANDS �������������403 ��������������������������������� 471 (Puerto Malabrigo) ����������� 331 Cajamarca �������������������������� 404 Around Iquitos ������������������ 482 Pacasmayo ������������������������� 331 Around Cajamarca �������������413 Pevas ���������������������������������� 485 Chiclayo �������������������������������332 Cajabamba ������������������������� 414 Around Chiclayo ���������������� 339 Celendín �������������������������������415 Piura �������������������������������������343 Chachapoyas ���������������������415 Cabo Blanco ���������������������� 350 Around Chachapoyas �������422 Máncora ������������������������������ 350 ���������������������������������424 Punta Sal �����������������������������355 Leimebamba �����������������������425 Zorritos �������������������������������355 Pedro Ruíz ���������������������������427 Tumbes �������������������������������356 Moyobamba ����������������������� 428 Around Tumbes ���������������� 360 Tarapoto ������������������������������ 430

HUARAZ & THE AMAZON BASIN �������436 CORDILLERAS ���������362 SOUTHERN AMAZON ������� 438 HUARAZ ������������������������������� 363 Puerto Maldonado ������������ 438 THE CORDILLERAS ������������376 Around Puerto Cordillera Blanca ���������������379 Maldonado ��������������������������447 Cordillera Huayhuash ������ 384 MANU AREA ������������������������453 Cordillera Negra ���������������� 386 Cuzco to Manu �������������������455 NORTH OF HUARAZ ������������387 Parque Nacional Manu �����457 Monterrey ���������������������������387 Manu Wildlife Center & Around �������������������������������� 458 › Peru ToTopp Experiences Experiences › Equator 80ºW 78ºW 76ºW 74ºW 72ºW 70ºW 68ºW

Máncora COLOMBIA Warm waters and ripping waves (p350) Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria BRAZIL A massive national park (p471) 2ºS The Americas' largest 2ºS Guayaquil pre-Columbian city (p323) Río

Napo

R ío Am Machala Tigre Tumbes Río azo nas Iquitos 4ºS Loja 4ºS Máncora Leticia Macará Santa Rosa Tabatinga La Tina ñón Talara Sullana Zumba Río Mara San Ignacio Lagunas Reserva Requena Piura Nacional Kuélap Huancabamba Pacaya-Samiria An extraordinary Bagua stone fortress (p424) Moyobamba 6ºS Yurimaguas 6ºS Pedro Ruíz yali Uca Chachapoyas o Kuélap Tarapoto Rí

Chiclayo Celendín Río Cajamarca Marañón Parque Nacional Manu Contamana A great rainforest Cruzeiro do Sul experience (p457) 8ºS Chan Chan 8ºS Machu Picchu Trujillo Tayabamba Pucallpa Alpamayo The planet's most-famous (5947m) ruin (p250) Chimbote Caraz Huascarán Cordillera Blanca (6768m) Tingo María Río Hike the majestic Casma Huaraz Rí o Andes (p379) Ucayali Pa The Sacred Valley Huánuco chi Village markets and 10ºS 10ºS tea ancient ruins (p233) Yerupajá (6634m) RíoUrub Lima Barranca Cerro de Pasco amba Assis A world-class food Lago La Merced de Junín Junín Iñapari destination (p50) Satipo La Oroya Tarma Río de la Río Manu Río de los s 12ºS Huancayo A Piedras 12ºS LIMA Boca m Pachamacac Parque igos Ayacucho Nacional Manu Manu Río Madre Highland capital Puerto Heath Huancavelica Quillabamba de Dios of folklore (p289) Puerto

Rí Maldonado

Ayacucho Aguas Calientes o Machu Picchu Pisac Tambopata Cuzco Pisco Cuzco Paracas Andahuaylas Abancay Ausangate 14ºS The ancient Inca Ica (6384m) 14ºS capital (p194) Floating Reed Islands Traditional living on P A C I F I C Lake Titicaca (p181) Nazca O C E A N Ponder these mysterious giant geoglyphs (p122) del Colca Juliaca Chala ón Lake Cañ Titicaca 16ºS ELEVATION Ampato Puno 16ºS (6310m) El Misti Copacabana (5822m) 5000m Juli Cañón del Colca Camaná 4000m Arequipa Desaguardero 3000m Hike the great Mollendo 2000m chasm (p158) Tambo 1000m Río 0 Moquegua Arequipa 0 200 km 0 100 miles Explore the colonial 18ºS White City (p138) Tacna 18ºS CHILE 82ºW 80ºW 78ºW 76ºW 74ºW 72ºW Arica 70ºW 68ºW AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Carolyn McCarthy Coordinating author; Lima, Lake Titicaca, & the Sacred Valley Author Carolyn McCarthy first discovered cumbia camping on the Inca Trail many years ago. For this trip, she sampled hundreds of Peruvian delicacies, climbed Wayna Picchu and visited one medical clinic. Some of her other Lonely Planet titles include , , Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks, USA, The Travel Book, Best in Travel and Trekking in the Patagonian Andes. She has also written for National Geographic, Outside and Lonely Planet Magazine, among other publi- cations. You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.

Carolina A Miranda Understand Peru The daughter of a Peruvian father, Carolina has spent her life making pilgrimages to Peru to eat ceviche and sip pisco sours. An avid student of Peruvian history (she has a degree in Latin American Studies), she has read Mario Vargas Llosa novels in Spanish, danced to Peruvian waltzes and spent countless hours studying the arts and textiles of the Andes. She also makes a mean aji de gallina. Find her at C-Monster.net or on Twitter at @cmonstah. Read more about Carolina at: lonelyplanet.com/members/carolinamiranda Kevin Raub North Coast, Huaraz & the Cordilleras, Northern Highlands Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. Working on Peru he logged over 2500km in his beige Renault tank, canvassing up and down the North Coast. He even stood his ground on a shakedown from Policía Nacional on one of the nine times they stopped him. After that, he opted for buses in the Northern Highlands and Huaraz areas. This is Kevin’s 20th Lonely Planet guide. You can find him at www.kevinraub.net. Read more about Kevin at: lonelyplanet.com/members/kraub

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 8th edition – April 2013 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 921 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Best-selling guide to Peru – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, September 2011 to August 2012. Brendan Sainsbury South Coast, Arequipa & Canyon Country An expat-Brit now living in Vancouver, Canada, Brendan first visited Peru as part of an epic South American traveling odyssey in the early 2000s; a trip that involved getting hailed on in Machu Pic- chu, getting lost in the middle of the Bolivian salt pans, and teaching local Uru- guayans how to do the ‘Madness dance’ in Punta del Este. He has since covered numerous Spanish-speaking countries for Lonely Planet including Cuba, , Puerto Rico and Spain.

Luke Waterson Central Highlands, Amazon Basin Two near-death experiences (including almost drowning in Río Madre de Dios) made for a poignant sixth trip to Peru for Luke. He’s been traveling (hiking/hitching/boating on vessels of dubious quality) across the country since 2004. His writing about close encounters with bizarre- ness in , Cuba and central Europe has graced several publications, including 15 Lonely Planet guidebooks and the UK magazine, Real Travel, which he helped relaunch. This is the second time he’s worked on Peru. Tweet him (@lukewaterson1) for anything South/–related. 24

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? Whether you’ve got six days or Head online to lonelyplanet.com/ 60, these itineraries provide a thorntree to chat with other starting point for the trip travelers.

LIMA #_

É

Machu •# •# Sacred Valley Picchu Islas •# Cuzco Ballestas •# •# Pisco •# Paracas •# •# Ica

Huacachina É É

•# Nazca Cañon del BOLIVIA Cotahuasi •# Cañon del É Colca

É •#

É •# •# Puno

É El Lake É Misti É •# Titicaca R PA CI FI C •# Arequipa OC EA N

Two to Four Weeks The Gringo Trail

This trip hits some of the pre-eminent highlights of the continent. Leaving Lima, journey south to Pisco and Paracas, where you can boat to the wildlife-rich Islas Ballestas. Then it’s on to Ica, Peru’s wine and pisco capital, and the palm-fringed, dune-lined oasis of Huacachina, famous for sandboarding. Next is Nazca for a flight over the mysterious Nazca Lines. Turn inland for the ‘White City’ of Arequipa, with its colonial architecture and stylish nightlife. Lace up your boots to trek the incredible Cañón del Colca or Cañón del Cota- huasi – perhaps the world’s deepest – or climb El Misti, a postcard-perfect 5822m volcano. Continue upwards to Puno, Peru’s port on Lake Titicaca, one of the world’s highest navi- gable lakes. From here you can boat to traditional islands and explore the strange (ancient funerary towers) at Sillustani and Cutimbo. Wind through the Andes to Cuzco, South America’s oldest continuously inhabited city. Browse colorful markets and explore archaeological sites in the Sacred Valley, then trek to Machu Picchu via an adventurous alternative route. 25

COLOMBIA ECUADOR

•# Iquitos Máncora •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É É BRAZIL

Cordillera #– Trujillo •# Blanca •# Chimbote •# •# Huaraz

É É Sacred ARIES ITINER Valley Manu Area Puerto LIMA #_ ÷# Maldonado Machu •# É •# Picchu •# É •# É

Cuzco #– É PA CI FI C •# Nazca #– É BOLIVIA OC EA N É •# Arequipa

Four Weeks The Best of Peru

If you’re set on getting a taste of everything, this whirlwind tour hits Peru’s top must- see attractions. Give yourself a full month to fully take it all in. Conquer your jet lag by becoming acquainted with the exquisite tastes of Peru in the restaurants of Lima, strolling parks and museums between meals. Head south through the coastal desert for a flyover of the Nazca Lines before arriving in stylish, cosmo- politan Arequipa, with its mysterious monasteries, deep canyons and smoking volcanoes. Fly high into the Andes to reach the ancient Inca capital of Cuzco for a few days of ac- climatization, exploring the cobblestone city and visiting Sacred Valley villages to check out colorful markets selling textiles, talismans and dozens of types of tubers. Then board the train to Machu Picchu, the most visited archaeological site in South America. From Cuzco, fly to Puerto Maldonado (or brave the 10-hour bus ride) where you can kick back at a wildlife lodge along one of the mighty rivers of the Amazon Basin. Alterna- tively, you can take an overland tour from Cuzco to the Manu area, with remote tracts of virgin forest holding diverse animals from kinkajous to caimans, it’s one of the most biodi- verse areas of the planet. Another option for exploring the Amazonian selva (jungle) is to first fly back to Lima, then onward to Iquitos, a bustling port that will launch you deeper into the jungle. Back in Lima, take a bus or fly north to the adventurers’ base camp of Huaraz, where a short trek will take you to the precipitous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. A day trip to Chavín de Huántar will lead you to one of Peru’s oldest ancient sites. Rumble back down to the coast at Chimbote, then dash north to historic Trujillo, which offers spicy northern dishes, surrounded by a cornucopia of archaeological sites. These include the ruins of the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas, Chan Chan, and the fascinating Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. Finish up the journey by taking a seaside break at the bustling surf town of Máncora. ERIC L. WHEATER/GETTY IMAGES L. WHEATER/GETTY ERIC PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN © I IE ARIES TINER

»»(above) A traditional boat made from

AXEL FASSIO/GETTY IMAGES FASSIO/GETTY AXEL totora reeds on Lake Titicaca (p167) »»(left) Inca burial chullpas (funerary towers) in Cutimbo (p179) © 27

Aguas Calientes •# É Ollantaytambo Machu Picchu •# •# É •# Salinas

•# É •# Pisac Sacred £# É •# Valley Cuzco Moray &

Maras TRIP YOUR PLAN

É

£# BOLIVIA

Capachica ARIES ITINER Peninsula

É Lampa•# É Isla É Amantaní Sillustani É •# •# É •# É •# Lake Puno Titicaca Isla del Sol &

•# •#Isla de la Luna Cutimbo É •#Copacabana

Two Weeks Plus The Inca Heartland

From Lima, fly to Cuzco but move on to the lower Sacred Valley to spend your first three to four days acclimating to the altitude. Visit the bustling market of Pisac, see the ruins and ride horses at Moray and Maras. The best accommodations are in the quaint Inca village of Ollantaytambo, at a swank valley resort or area B&B. From Ollantaytambo, hike the town ruins in the morning or visit the cool salt pans of Salinas and take an afternoon train to Aguas Calientes. Enjoy a leisurely dinner and tuck in early to take the first bus to the great Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. Spend the day browsing the ruins. The following morning, hop the train to Cuzco. Now that you’re acclimated, spend a few days enjoying the colonial charms of this former Inca capital, taking a walking tour, visit- ing a few museums, admiring the splendors of Qorikancha, the Inca’s most spectacular temple, and enjoying the city’s outstanding cuisine. Grab a comfortable tourist bus (or take the historic train) to the altiplano city of Puno. If you can coincide with a festival, this is the place to do it, with wild costumes, brass bands and fervent merriment. Otherwise, take in folkloric music at a dinner show or adventure to aquatic accommodations on the retired steamship Yavari. From your base in Puno, the funerary towers of the Colla, and Inca cultures can be found at Sillustani and Cutimbo, an easy day trip, and worth combining with lovely Lampa and its historic church. Take a boat tour of Lake Titicaca, visiting the famous reed islands and staying overnight in traditional family lodgings on Isla Amantaní. If you have a few extra days, take a catamaran tour, which also visits the Bolivian islands of Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna, landing you in Copacabana, from where you can take a tourist bus back to Puno. Returning to Puno, explore the rural coast of the Capachica Peninsula, home to places still steeped in the ancient traditions of the altiplano with nary another traveler in sight. Get ready for the culture shock of big city living, and fly back to Lima. 28

É COLOMBIA Iquitos •# ío Amazo ECUADOR R nas

rañon •# tri-border aÉ o M zone Rí Lagunas •# ÷# É Reserva Nacional

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Pacaya-Samiria

i l a

y

a

c U

É BRAZIL

o

í R Yarinacocha •# •# Pucallpa

É TNRARIES ITINER PA CI FI C É OC EA N #– •# Puerto Bermúdez

É •# Río Madre San Ramón de Dios É Puerto

Manu Area É Maldonado LIMA #_ ÷# É BOLIVIA #–

É •#•# Lago

É É É É Sandoval É É É Cuzco •# #– •# Río Tambopata

Two to Four Weeks Exploring Amazonia

More than half of Peru is jungle, populated by spectacular wildlife and tribal peo- ples. Go overland and drop dramatically away from the eastern slopes of the An- des to slip deep into the Amazon Basin, which stretches all the way to the Atlantic. This entire itinerary takes a month, or it can be divided by region into one- or two-week segments. The most popular excursion starts from Cuzco and heads to the Manu area, itself the size of a small country, albeit one with kingdoms of jungle lodges. Another option is to fly from Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado and kick back in a thatch-roofed bungalow with a view, either along the Río Madre de Dios, the gateway to lovely Lago Sandoval, or along the Río Tambopata, where a national reserve protects one of the country’s largest clay licks. The dry season (July and August) is traditionally the best time to return overland back to Cuzco, although the recent paving of this route means it’s possible outside these months. Or turn your focus to the north. The easiest way to get there is to fly from Lima to Pu- callpa, staying in a lodge or bungalow in the nearby Yarinacocha. The lovely oxbow lake is ringed by tribal villages. You can visit some of these, including those of the matriarchal Shipibo people, renowned for their pottery. Hardcore overland travelers can opt to reach Pucallpa from Lima via the coffee-growing settlement of San Ramón and the miniscule village of Puerto Bermúdez, the stronghold of Peru’s largest Amazon tribe, the Asháninka. From Pucallpa, begin the classic slow riverboat journey north along the Río Ucayali to Iquitos, the world’s largest city with no road access! This northern jungle capital has a floating market and a bustling port, where you can catch a more comfortable cruise into Peru’s largest national park, Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, via Lagunas. It’s also tempting to float over into Brazil via the unique tri-border zone. It’s best to fly if your time is limited; if not, lose yourself for weeks on epic river and road journeys through jungle terrain. Bring bucket loads of patience and self-reliance – and a lot of luck never hurts. 29

Tumbes•# •# Iquitos É ECUADOR Máncora •# Reserva Nacional

Pacaya-Samiria É É

÷# Piura•# É Lagunas•# É •# Huancabamba É É Pedro Ruíz TRIP YOUR PLAN •# •# Yurimaguas É

Chachapoyas •# É Tarapoto #– •# •# É Chiclayo •# É •# Leimebamba •# Celendín Cajamarca BRAZIL Puerto Chicama •# •# Trujillo Huanchaco •#

TNRARIES ITINER

É É

Sechín •#

PA CI FI C OC EA N É

Caral •# É North Coast The Wild & Ancient North #_ LIMA

10 Days to Two Weeks Two to Four Weeks North Coast The Wild & Ancient North

The first stop north of Lima could From Lima, head to Trujillo, sam- be Caral, where the oldest known pling the fiery coastal cuisine and ex- civilization in South America arose ploring nearby ruins at Chan Chan about 5000 years ago. Further north, and Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. spy ancient engravings of human sacrifice Head further north to spy ancient ruins and at Sechín and continue to Trujillo. Nearby the witches’ market of Chiclayo. attractions include the Moche pyramids of From here, brave the wild route to the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna and ruins of lovely highland town of Cajamarca, where the once-mighty Chan Chan. the conquistadors captured Inca Atahualpa. Off the sleepy beaches at Huanchaco, In the dry season, adventure on the slow, surfers paddle out to the breakers while lo- spectacular route to friendly Celendín and cal fishers trawl the coast. To the north, the on to Leimebamba to see the Marvelous surf spot of Puerto Chicama boasts one of Spatuletail Hummingbird. Continue on the world’s longest left-hand breaks. Then to Chachapoyas where the cloud forest it’s Chiclayo, with world-class museums obscures the fantastic monolithic fortress of nearby showcasing riches from the impor- Kuélap. tant archaeological site of Sipán. From Chachapoyas, journey via Pedro Craft-market hub Piura boasts great din- Ruíz to Tarapoto, where you can hike in ing possibilities, while the witch doctors of lush forest to waterfalls. Next, fly to the jun- Huancabamba are hidden away in the An- gle city of Iquitos or continue via Yurim- des. Peru’s best beaches lie along the Pacific aguas, where cargo boats make the rugged shoreline further north, with resorts such two-day trip to Iquitos via the village of as Máncora, where you can feast on fresh Lagunas, the entry point to the Reserva seafood and dance the balmy nights away. Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, for an unfor- The journey ends at Tumbes, a gateway gettable glimpse of the world’s greatest river to Ecuador and jumping-off point to Peru’s basin. At Iquitos, you can arrange boat trips endangered mangrove swamps, which teem that go deeper into the rainforest and on to with wildlife (mind the crocs!). Brazil or Colombia. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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