Morocco (Birdfinders) Trip Report 16-27 Feb 2016

MOROCCO (BIRDFINDERS) TRIP REPORT 16-27 FEB 2016

TUESDAY 16TH FEB 2016 (DAY 1): MARRAKECH – THE HIGH ATLAS - OURIKA VALLEY

The 07.40 London Gatwick EasyJet 8893 arrived on time at Menara Airport (RAK), Marrakesh (1545ft / 471m ASL) 12.30 local time. Cleared Customs and Baggage Collection relatively quickly with a quick stop for currency exchange (£1=13.5 Dirham). House Sparrow, House Bunting and feral Rock Dove in the modern terminal building and out into the welcome warm spring sunshine to board the minibus. Heading south, a 30km drive toward the Ourika valley and the High Atlas with White Wagtail, Southern Grey Shrike and Little Egret en route with a stop for provisions in Tahanaoute adding the local Atlas (African) Chaffinch (F. c. africana), Crag Martin and Collared Dove plus ever present House Buntings. A drive up into the mountains (Oubkal Massif) toward the Oukaimeden ski resort following the P2028/P2030 only to be blocked 6km short by a bulldozer snow-plough clearing the road of heavy overnight snow. While waiting a male Moussier’s Redstart was found among the snow-covered boulders plus the local race of Mistle Thrush (T. v. deichleri). We had no option but to turn-around, hide our disappointment, head back and stop for a late (15.00) lunch by the roadside. Still this was an opportunity to do some birding and we quickly found Kestrel (Lesser Kestrel?), Ultramarine (African) Blue Tit (C. ultramarinus), the local race of Blackbird (T. m. mauritanicus), Rock Buntings, European Serin, Greenfinch, Chiffchaff, Common Raven and Common Chaffinch. While enjoying distant views of Mt Toubkal/Tubkal (4167m) our attention was diverted by a playful flock of 20 Red-billed Chough, close scrutiny of which revealed two Alpine Chough and proper wild Rock Doves. After lunch we descended into a noticeably warmer Ourika Valley where after a few stops we found our target species, Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker calling from the top of a conifer plus Common Bulbul, the Iberian/N. African race of Black Redstart (P. o. aterimus), Blackcap and more Chiffchaff.

Onward to our first overnight stop, the Hotel Amnougour, perched above the chocolate-brown melt waters of the River Ourika with Grey Wagtail, Cattle Egret, more Common Bulbuls, Chiffchaffs and Blackcaps. A power cut had left the hotel without light and heat (apart from a log fire) but somehow the resourceful staff put together a candlelit dinner of tomato stew and chicken tagine followed by apple tart plus beer at ‘only’ 30dh a small bottle. Off to bed in the pitch-black freezing cold meant donning all available layers only to be awakened in the middle of the night with bad leg cramps. An interesting first day.

WEDNESDAY 17TH FEB 2016 (DAY 2): OUKAIMEDEN – BEN GUERIR – TAMARA PLAGE

Up at 06.30, dressing quickly for a breakfast of bread, butter and jam, followed by omelette and fresh orange juice but somehow I missed the coffee. Packed and out by 07.35 for the drive to Oukaimeden, hopefully the road having been cleared. With 20km to go a brief stop found a singing Eurasian Wren (of the local race T. t. kabylorum) and then back into the bus with others spotting Black Wheatear and Alpine Accentor but frustrating for those that dislike birding from a moving vehicle. By 08.45 we had navigated safely the sheet-ice and parked near the foot of the ski lift at 2650 m in bright sunshine and cloudless azure sky. We very quickly found a mobile flock of seven-plus Atlas Horned Larks (E. a. atlas) feeding on cleared patches of the road which with patience provided close views so one could appreciate their reddish-cinnamon crown and hind neck and broad black mask and breast band. For one more used to seeing Shore Larks at sea-level it was still a surprise. Now obvious, because of the time of day and deep snow, that we were going to dip on our other primary target (African Crimson- winged Finch) we returned slipping and sliding on the perilous ice to the town crowded with conscripts from the local army barracks, noting many Alpine and Red-billed Choughs, African Chaffinch, Rock Buntings, the greyer less heavily marked local race of Rock Sparrow (P. p. barbara), a Thekla/Crested Lark, a pair of confiding Alpine Accentors and a smart male Black Redstart.

Atlas Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris atlas) Oukaimeden

We left the resort descending the mountain with a stop at 11.00 at a hamlet finding more House Buntings, a Blue Rock Thrush and an actual pair of Thekla Larks where one had time to appreciate the features of the high altitude Atlas race (G. t. ruficolor). A singing Cirl Bunting, a pair of Moussier’s 2 Redstarts and more Chiffchaffs and Chaffinches were nearby. Back in the bus, with a brief pause to photograph a Great Spotted Woodpecker that flew across the road. At noon we stopped on a high bluff overlooking two river valleys but only Serin, Kestrel, White Wagtail and feral pigeons troubled the scorers. By 12.45 we were back in the hustle and bustle of Marrakech noting a kettle of White Storks, Spotless Starlings, Wood Pigeons and the local Magpie regarded by some as the separate species Maghreb Magpie (Pica mauritanica) because of its distinctive blue bare skin patch behind the eye, more black on the primaries, longer tail and different call.

By 13.10 we were out of Marrakech heading north on the modern A7 highway toward Casablanca (225 km). At 13.45 a comfort and lunch stop at a service station, noting many Painted Lady and Small White butterflies in the garden, more Chiffchaffs, White Wagtails and House Sparrows. Crested Larks were on nearby fields but identification is again complicated, this time by the Crested / Maghreb (Long- billed Crested) Lark complex. Distribution maps (see footnote) would suggest that these were of the riggenbachi race of Crested Lark. A Southern Grey Shrike perched nearby allowed ‘scope views of the features of the north African Desert Grey Shrike (L. m. elegans) race. Barn Swallows and European Stonechat (S. t. rubicola) also figured in the note book. At 14.45 we turned off the highway to scan ploughed fields near Ben Guerir. There were eight Corn Buntings (but no hoped-for Calandra Larks despite some wishful thinking on my part) a pair of Southern Grey Shrikes and a female Northern Wheatear plus a Little Tiger Blue butterfly flitting about my boots. We returned to the highway noting Cattle Egrets and by 17.00 we were past Casablanca heading north-east up the Atlantic coast toward Rabat with Yellow-legged and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, Grey Heron and a buteo sp. but I missed the Glossy Ibis seen by others. At 18.05 we left the highway for a short drive to Hotel La Felouque at Temara Plage. Beat by the long journey, there was time for a quick shower before a dinner of salad, chicken, rice and potatoes followed by sliced oranges dusted with cinnamon while Dennis and John regaling us with tales of Caspian Tern and Oystercatcher on the beach backing onto the hotel.

THURSDAY 18TH FEB 2016 (DAY 3): SIDI YAYHA – LAC DE SIDI BOURHABA – MERDJA ZERGA

Breakfasting at 06.00 and leaving at 06.30, we drove to an area of maquis shrubland and distant Cork Oak woodland to the well-known Sidi Yayha site arriving just after dawn at 07.45. An hours walk along the road-side with ventures down a couple of tracks but there was no sight or sound of today’s elusive quarry (Double-spurred Francolin) and another disappointment. Thekla Larks were feeding by the roadside and Wood Pigeons flying overhead while at a small puddle, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Robin, Blackbird and a pair of Sardinian Warblers were coming to drink. Walking on, three Great Cormorants flew high overhead and at 08.45 we stopped as I heard a partridge (presumably Barbary?) calling a couple of times. While paused we saw a (Western) Marsh Harrier quartering the woodland plus a party of Swifts, probably all Pallid. As we mused on their identity, a pair of Little Swifts were spotted amongst their

3 larger cousins; a WP tick for me. At 09.15 a Black-winged Kite, hovering characteristically in the distance brought the early morning session to an end and we left at 09.45.

A brief stop for bread near Rabat Plage and by 11.00 we were heading up the coast noting (Western) Jackdaw (probably the South/West Europe race C. m. spermologus) arriving at 11.45 at a road-side stop overlooking Lac de Sidi Bourhaba. Teal, Gadwall, Pintail, Shelduck, Black-winged Stilts and a Green Sandpiper were quickly found accompanied by noisy Cetti’s Warblers, hawking Barn Swallows and House Martins, a Marsh Harrier and Magpies. We moved on to the Reserve de Sidi Bourhaba stopping at the causeway at the end of the lake. Piling out of the bus, scopes in hand, we found White-headed Duck, Red-knobbed Coot and Marbled Duck (Teal) among 100+ Shoveler, 12+ Ferruginous Duck, Pochard, 50+ Little Grebes, Great Crested Grebes, Common Coot, Moorhen, and Grey Heron. A light rain started and by 12.30 it was quite heavy as we stopped for lunch at a picnic site, finding whatever shelter was available under the trees. As the rain relented we scanned the lake finding 28 Greater Flamingo, Little Egret, an Osprey perched on a distant tree plus more Red-knobbed Coot, White-headed Duck and 20+ Marbled Duck. At 14.10 we returned to the causeway pausing to enjoy and photograph a very obliging Western (Purple) Swamp-hen (P. porphyrio).

4 Mallard, 17+ Red-crested Pochard, Cormorant, White Stork, Cattle and Great White Egrets, Eurasian Spoonbill, Black Kite, Stonechat, Yellow-legged and Black-headed Gulls, Common Kingfisher, Jackdaw and Spotless Starling completed the list of species seen at the lake.

To the A1 highway heading north, a comfort stop at 15.15, with views of the Merja Zerga on our left. We had to continue past until a turn off toward Moulay Bousselham, onto a bumpy minor road back, through a small village that seem to be comprised entirely of vehicle repair shops, toward Souk el Arbaa, where we picked up our guide (possibly the famous Hamaroudir) at 16.40. Back up the bumpy road until a left turn down a narrow dirt track squeezing past polytunnels and emerging onto low land overlooking the Merja Zerga. A Little Owl was perched nearby as our guide led us to the ‘stake-out’ site. I was expecting a lengthy scan of the marshes, but suddenly our guide had flushed a Marsh Owl which glided past close-by landing behind a mound of cut reeds. I had fired off some shots at the owl and as I lowered the camera / raised the bins, I noticed a second Marsh Owl perched on a post nearby – had it been there all the time? This second bird was unfazed by our presence and we all had plenty of time to appreciate this rare and declining asio, found only in this small area of NW Morocco within the WP. It went through a routine of alternate wing-stretching and head turning, calling occasionally (to its’ mate?) with a soft corvid-like croak.

5 As the light faded, and with our memory cards replete, we noticed one and then two Marsh Owls quartering the wide expanse of grazing marsh with the lights of Moulay twinkling in the distance. Zitting Cisticolas were ‘zitting’ and Stonechats ‘chatting’ nearby and as we returned to the minibus, Quail were calling in the long grass. I did not join the line trying to flush the bird but gazed back to the marshes trying to remember every detail of a wonderful evening. We left at 18.00 and by 18.45 were at our hotel Le Lagon in Moulay for a dinner of soup, chicken and chips, banana and apple, washed down with a celebratory beer or three.

FRIDAY 19TH FEB 2016 (DAY 4): OUED SEBOU – EL HAJEB – DIYET AAOUA – AGUELMAME DE SIDI ALI

Up at dawn to find that the hotel was very pleasantly situated overlooking a creek with fishing boats, a wooded bluff, dunes and the waves of the Atlantic breaking over a distant sand-bar – more Devon than Morocco! A couple of Crested Larks were present in the dunes (probably kleinschmidti/cristata race) but breakfast was beckoning and by 07.15 we were off on the long south-easterly drive to Midelt. We took the minor R406 to Lalla-Rhano and Souk-el-Arba du-Rharb, omitting a planned stop at pools that had dried up, picking up the R413 to Mechra Ben-Ksiri, stopping just past the new road and railway bridges spanning the Oued Sebou. Crossing the rail tracks and down a slippery muddy path we walked to the river finding three Laughing Dove, a Common Sandpiper and a smart male Moroccan (White) Wagtail (M. (alba) subpersonata). Returning to the coach, taking a more sensible way back, we noted White Wagtail, a noisy party of Common Bulbul, Cetti’s Warbler and European Goldfinch.

Onward with views of our first Long-legged Buzzard (of the NW African race B. r. cirtensis) from the coach, through Sidi-Kacem, Meknes, Bouakrane arriving at El-Hajeb at 10.40 for mid-morning coffee and while Peter stocked up on bread, we had brief and distant views of four Lesser Kestrels. At 11.15 we stopped at a farm alongside the R707 to Ifrane where there was a breeding colony of Lesser Kestrels. A pair were perched on the eaves of one of the pan-tiled out-buildings while others flew close overhead providing great views of this smart little falcon. A pair of White Storks were also nesting on the farm but after a while we wandered off into the adjacent stone-walled fields. Colin and I were lucky to get onto a pair of fly-over Calandra Larks which proved to be our only sighting of the trip.

Onward through picturesque snow-covered Holm Oak woodland (the Foret de Jaba and a good site for Atlas Flycatcher later in the year) and high plains reaching Ifrane (1650m) at noon. Ifrane was a bit of a surprise turning out to be an affluent university and resort town with schools attended by children of the Moroccan Royal Family and national elite. Very European in appearance with large high-pitched houses and chalets which would not be out of place in the Alps. However, we were not here to admire the architecture and we took the road toward Fes. After a short distance we turned off to Diyet Aaoua (Dayet-Ifrah or Day-At Aqua depending on which sign and map you read) to a large lake with a good variety of wildfowl and herons. Ruddy Shelduck, Ferruginous Duck, Pochard, Teal, Pintail, Mallard, 6 Gadwall, Little, Great Crested and Black-necked Grebes, Red-knobbed and Common Coot, Great White and Little Egrets, Grey Heron were noted while Little Ringed Plover and (noticeably dark) Meadow Pipits fed on the muddy margins. We moved on a short distance to a picnic stop near a private estate for lunch. Greenshank and Spotted Redshank and Eurasian Sparrowhawk were added to the list while Kingfishers, Chiffchaff, Robin, Mistle Thrush and Raven were all noted. Others reported Firecrest in trees on the estate however I received a shout and stern looks from a security guard as I sauntered nonchalantly over to see.

At 14.00 we drove and then walked up a hillside track toward a well-kept farm finding Eurasian Siskin, House and Cirl Buntings, Goldfinch, African Blue and Great Tits and more Crested/Thekla Larks. As we neared the farm surrounded by mature conifers, Mistle Thrushes and Coal Tit were seen and a call of Hawfinch gave all distant views of up to three birds. Three pairs of Short-toed Treecreepers, calling (but unseen) Common (Red) Crossbills, Firecrests, Serin, a pair of Woodlark and a distant Long-legged Buzzard were all noted. A Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker, preoccupied while pecking at a rotten tree stump, provided a good photo opportunity.

7 We left the lake at 15.45 heading back to Ifrane where we took the road to Azrou stopping briefly on the by-pass for a comfort break. At 16.45 we were driving through the snow-covered Foret de Cedres and at 17.00 we had distant views of Tizi Tarhzeft (2455m) in the Middle Atlas, and then through Timahdite, down a steep winding road beside a rushing mountain stream. The opportunity to stop and look for the resident White-throated Dipper (one of the few places to see this species in continental Africa) was missed and we drove on entering the province of Midelft at 17.30. We stopped to look over a frozen and snow-covered Aguelmame-de-Sidi Ali with ten Ruddy Shelduck, Red-knobbed and Common Coot concentrated in a small area of open water with a pair of Long-legged Buzzards and Ravens overhead. At 17.50 we passed through Alt-Oufella down off the snow-covered hills onto Boulojoul, Zeida and the high Plateau de l’Arid. By 18.45 we reached Midelft and our hotel the Kasbah Asmaa for dinner and the log.

SATURDAY 20TH FEB 2016 (DAY 5): ZEIDA PLAIN – TUNNEL DU LEGIONNAIRE – THE TAFILALT

An early start, up and out before dawn for a 30 km drive back the way we came toward Zeida where we turned off the main road down a non-descript track through the desert. Peter briefed us on the day’s quarry and we disembarked from the coach into a chill and silent desert dawn to walk slowly line abreast with mouths shut and eyes focused in the near distance for any movement in the sparse vegetation comprised of ankle-high thorny wormwood with random grass tussocks. The game plan paid off and at 07.30 our first sighting was made. With good directions, we all enjoyed scope views of a distant Dupont’s Lark perched on a low bush. The bird was singing and displaying with neck stretching and wing fluttering, the slow, soft, melancholic phrases of its song just audible carried on the desert breeze. In the low light the lark appeared rufous/golden brown with a lightly marked neck and chest however distribution maps indicate that C. d. duponti is the race present in Morocco (as in Spain) and not C. d. margaritae present in the rest of N. Africa. All told we watched at least 2 birds (possibly 2 pairs) until the spell was broken by a noisy flock of a dozen Common Ravens. A bubbling grouse-like call alerted us to the presence of Black-bellied Sandgrouse and up to four birds were seen including one directly overhead. Returning to the minibus, close views of a flock of up to six Lesser Short-toed Lark was a fitting finale to a great morning and we left at 09.30 returning to the hotel for a late breakfast.

By 10.10 we were again heading south again on the N13 across the high plateau and then up into the rocky juniper-covered hills of the Atlas mountains, the breeding grounds of Tristram’s Warbler. At 11.30 we stopped 200m south of the Tunnel du Legionnaire (Tunnel Zaabal) overlooking the deep Gorges du Ziz. Rock Doves, Crag Martins, three Little Swift, a male Lesser Kestrel, House Buntings and Sparrows were noted plus a squirrel sp. photographed on a rocky outcrop whilst a steady stream of Painted Lady butterflies moved through the gorge. Onwards and at 12.15 a roadside stop for good views of a pair of Black Wheatear, our first Desert Lark (of the western race A. d. payni/algeriensis) and tinkling 8 Goldfinches. At 12.45 we passed the large Lac du Ziz which appeared empty of birds with just a Blue Rock Thrush beside the road. At 13.00 we reached Ar-Rachidia stopping for provisions and a comfort break leaving at 13.40. 10 minutes later we stopped for views of our first Desert Wheatear (of the pale sandy-coloured N African race O. d. homochroa) and White-crowned Black (White-tailed) Wheatear, the first of many ‘black-crowned’ first winter birds seen on the trip. We continued south toward Arfoud/Erfoud noting many White-crowned Black Wheatears and Crested Larks, breaking for lunch at 14.00. It was here that we first encountered Morocco’s infamous plastic bag plague. It was very dispiriting (a national disgrace) to see mile after mile of desert littered with broken glass and thousands upon thousands of blue and white plastic bags, for some reason an attraction that is not highlighted in the tourist brochures. It is reported that Morocco ‘consumes’ 26 billion bags per annum; I think we saw most of these in the days following.

Off at 15.00 reaching Maadid and then Erfoud where we headed off into the Tafilalt desert region on the R702 Route de Merzouga. The metalled surface petered out after a short distance and we were overtaken by 4x4’s kicking up dust as they raced through the desert. Through the desert heat, a shimmering mirage gradually coalesced into the Auberge Kasbah Said. Set in the middle of nowhere (actually Lat. 31.18.52N Long. 04.06.25W) this charming (apparently modern) hotel was straight out of central-casting and we were welcomed with glasses of refreshing hot sweet mint tea in small glass tumblers. The cool walled garden was a welcome relief and we quickly found our rooms and unpacked. By 16.30 we were exploring a nearby wadi finding several Bar-tailed Larks, a Spectacled Warbler and an African Desert Warbler (Sylvia deserti), seen well as it responded to a recorded call.

9 Formerly regarded as a race of Asian Desert Warbler, my key photograph is a little out of focus but clearly shows the tri-coloured tail pattern, very similar to birds seen in Israel, but with plain(ish) central tail feathers, as described in Collins.

As one would expect, a Desert Wheatear was in attendance nearby while White-crowned Black Wheatear, House and Spanish Sparrows were noted before returning to the hotel in the fading light for dinner.

SUNDAY 21ST FEB 2016 (DAY 6): THE TAFILALT (KASBAH SAID WADI – ERG CHEBBI - KEMKEMIA BIVOUAC – MERZOUGA - HILLS SW OF RISSANI)

An early start for breakfast and what turned out to be one of my personal best birding days. We were met at the hotel by two 4x4’s each with a local Berber guide/driver with the plan to drive off into the deep desert to find what we could find, keeping in contact with walkie-talkies. With eyes focused for any movement it was not long before we spotted a group of up to six Thick-billed Larks, which thanks to the vehicle acting as a portable hide, allowed close photography of these fantastic huge- billed larks.

While stopped, we spotted a pair of white-faced Temminck’s Larks, another semi-desert specialist high on our wish list. Eastwards toward the horizon and the high sand dunes of the Erg Chebbi. Here our guide (and his son) had somehow ‘staked out’ a pair of roosting Egyptian Nightjars, superbly camouflaged in a stony/weedy depression within the dunes. When I say superbly camouflaged, let’s just say we approached within 10-20m and it was only with repeated finger-pointing and hushed detailed directions that I managed to eventually see the sand-coloured pair (of the N African race C. a. saharae) facing each other a foot or so apart like book-ends. What a privilege and strong candidates for birds of the trip.

Somewhat reluctantly we moved on, finding a pair of (Greater) Hoopoe Lark plus several large parties of Spotted Sandgrouse calling overhead with others settled in the flat gravelly desert. There must have been at least 150-200 birds in total attracted by an unseen water-hole, which we eventually found nearby. Barely a large puddle of open water in a shallow rock-fringed depression, birds were being constantly drawn in. 30+ Trumpeter Finches, at least two Thick-billed Lark, a pair of Temminck’s Lark, our first (Greater) Short-toed Lark, another Hoopoe Lark and several Bar-tailed Larks all held our attention.

I could have stayed all morning but time pressed and we moved on to an area of cultivation consisting of date-palm groves and small garden plots. Here we found an adult White-crowned Black Wheatear, several Bar-tailed and more ‘crested’ Larks. These birds were noticeable larger, paler and longer-billed and were probably the recently split (by some) Maghreb (Long-billed Crested) Lark (Galerida macrorhyncha) the nominate race of which is restricted to this area of Morocco. I was then distracted by glimpses of a Sylvia warbler which after some chasing and confusion (with Subalpine Warbler) was agreed to be an adult female / first winter male Tristram’s Warbler. A pair of Moussier’s Redstarts were fly-catching from below the palms and a Fulvous Babbler (Chatter) was perched high in the vegetation on sentry duty alerted us to the presence of a lively foraging party of at least four-five birds. 12 Several Bath White / Eastern Bath White butterflies were flitting through this oasis and after some work I managed to get better half-decent views and photographs of another Tristram’s Warbler.

It was now getting hot in the midday sun and we temporarily lost track of our drivers before heading back into the desert in the 4x4s. Through a landscape dotted with camels we managed absolutely cracking views of a small group of Spotted Sandgrouse and then, through the heat haze, a male Hoopoe Lark performing its spectacular song-flight from a low bush.

Next up, a pair of handsome Cream-coloured Coursers running through the desert. Again our mobile hides allowed a close approach providing excellent photo opportunities for the paparazzi among the group.

We then visited several small encampments and settlements arriving eventually at the Kemkemia Bivouac, another small oasis set in the dunes. Here we finally caught up our quarry, a pair of enchantingly tame Desert Sparrows. This species has been driven deeper and deeper into the desert because of competition with House Sparrows and so we were fortunate to find this pair. We were invited into the cool welcoming shade of the bivouac for our usual luncheon fare of bread, tinned sardines, laughing cow cheese, yoghurt and fruit washed down with plenty of bottled water. After thanking our hosts, we moved on toward the small village of Merzouga close to the Algerian border finding a party of 15 Brown-necked Ravens and driving past a site where Dunn’s Lark had bred in previous years. After some further exploration in the desert we rejoined a metaled road and headed back toward Rissani. At Rissani we drove south-west, off the tourist route, heading toward an impressive series of high cliffs. After some scanning, we found a Lanner Falcon (of the NW African race F. b. erlangeri) perched high on the cliff edge its silvery-cream underparts gleaming in the late afternoon sun. As we watched, this large and very impressive falcon dropped from its perch and glided along the cliff face to its’ nest site where its golden-crowned head could still be seen.

There was one final treat, we headed through a small village (Ksartinghars?) arriving at another site where our guide directed us to a heavily shadowed vertical crack on the bright sunlit red cliff face. Through scopes, and as our eyes adjusted to the shadow, we could make out a Pharoah Eagle Owl blinking sleepily at its roost/nest site. Grinning like an idiot, I turned and shook the hand of our guide, asking him the name of the site to which he replied something like “Lamdoor” which could be Arabic/Berber for many things. We returned the way we came and were back at the hotel at 17.30 thanking our guides for a truly excellent day – and with just enough time for some pre-dinner birding in the wadi finding Tristram’s and Spectacled Warbler (missed previously), a Desert Wheatear and more Brown-necked Ravens. What a day!!

MONDAY 22ND FEB 2016 (DAY 7): KASBAH SAID – OUED RHERIS WADI – GORGE DU TODRA – TAGDLIT TRACK

Up at 6 for 6.30 breakfast and just time for a little birding around the Kasbah (and bumping into another birding group) before leaving at 07.30 for the drive back to civilization (otherwise known as Erfoud) noting Bar-tailed and Crested / Maghreb Larks and Southern (Desert) Grey Shrikes. We took the minor road (N702) heading west to Moulay Brahim and then Jorf just beyond which we passed an impressive 15 linear series of raised wells (Qanats or Khettara) marking the course of a subterranean irrigation system, now abandoned, which used to bring water from the distant mountains.

At 08.30 we stopped at a roadside well about 50km east of Tinejdad. The presence of water had attracted a large flock of 20+ Trumpeter Finches and a pair of White-crowned Black Wheatears which posed well for the photographers in the bus.

We disembarked and proceeded to walk up the dry wadi of the Oued Rheris finding a Spectacled Warbler and then, alerted by its trilling alarm call, brief views of a splendid (Saharan) Scrub Warbler, waving and fanning its cocked tail, as it kept a few metres ahead of us using the low tussocks for cover. A mobile flock of 50+ Spotted Sandgrouse flew fast calling overhead and Black-bellied Sandgrouse could be heard but not seen. One and then a second Barbary Falcon were spotted by keen-eyed members of the team (probably responsible for the spooked sandgrouse) and a pair of Long-legged Buzzard were rising quickly on thermals on the nearby hills. We continued ‘working the wadi’ heading toward the minibus which had driven on ahead of us, when we got a second opportunity at a Scrub Warbler. This time, with a little more forethought, I moved ahead of where the bird was heading and as it hopped between tussocks managed to grab a few record shots. The bird appeared to have a 16 darkish grey/brown back and streaked crown (features of the theresae race of SW Morocco) but bold black eye-stripe, a feature of the saharae race of E Morocco and Libya. Collins goes on to mention that “intermediates are common in interior Morocco” and this would appear to be indeed the case! Some but not all authorities regard these races to be of a separate species to (Levant) Scrub Warbler (S. inquieta) a bird I watched in Eilat the previous year. I’ll leave this for the taxonomists to grapple with, let’s just say I ‘ticked’ both birds.

We left continuing westward reaching Mellaab at 11.30 where we were delayed at one of the many police and army checkpoints until some minor discrepancy in our paperwork was sort out. A comfort stop at the local service station and then on to Tinejdad at 12.30 to stock up on provisions. We drove on seeing wheatears, larks, shrikes and stonechats from the minibus reaching Tinghir/Tinerhir at 13.40 where we took a minor road northward through lush palm groves and ancient hillside Berber villages to the spectacular Gorges du Todra for lunch. Surrounded by high peaks and the clean fast-flowing Oued Todra cutting through the canyon, this area is popular with locals, tourists and birders. We munched on our cheese and sardine sandwiches while noting House Buntings and House Sparrows, Black Redstarts, Blue Rock Thrush, Goldfinches, Crag Martins, Little Swifts and a distant falcon species, but we had no joy with Bonelli’s Eagle reported to be frequently seen in the gorge. 17

At 15.30 we returned to Tinghir where we were again stopped at a police checkpoint. We passed through Magpa and then at 16.30 beside a roadside marker post, 34 km west of Tinghir, Peter called the minibus to a halt. We piled out and were soon enjoying our first views of not one but two smart male Red-rumped (Buff-rumped) Wheatears (of the N African race O. m. moesta) plus Thick- billed Lark, more Crested/Thekla Larks and a Long-legged Buzzard perched high on a distant electricity pylon.

With no time to waste, we pushed on and at 17.05 turned left onto the famous Tagdilt track. Crossing this featureless high desert plain we stopped at ‘the pools’ a shallow dried-up depression scattered with large rocks. There must have been some residual moisture because it was pulling in the birds, namely a Desert Wheatear, a pair of Temminck’s Larks, three Meadow Pipits (noticeably dark olive/green backed), White Wagtails and another Red-rumped Wheatear perched on a nearby spoil-heap, plus a heavy-built gerbil-like rodent which Peter said, somewhat unflatteringly, was a Fat Sand Rat (Psammomys obesus). We scrutinized a distant wheatear which we finally agreed to be a female/immature Northern Wheatear and then we split up and spent some time exploring the nearby desert finding two-four Desert Wheatears. At 18.00 we called it a day and drove a short distance to the unprepossessing town of Boumaine Dades and our hotel for the night, the Kasbah Xaluca. Here we 18 were a surprised to be greeted by a traditional Berber welcoming party complete with drummers, pipers and ululating women and I was not expecting the comforts of a four-star luxury hotel in such a dry and dusty unprepossessing town.

TUESDAY 23RD FEB 2016 (DAY 8): BOUMALNE DE DADES – TAGDILT TRACK – BARRAGE EL MANSOUR

Up early for an exploration of the hotel grounds (finding White Wagtail, House Bunting and African Blue Tit) before an excellent buffet breakfast and leaving at 07.45 for the 6.5 km drive back to the Tagdilt track. Pairs of Desert and Red-rumped Wheatears plus four-plus Temminck’s Larks were seen before we turned right onto a rough track heading towards a nearby farm with irrigated green fields. Parties of Lesser Short-toed Larks (probably totaling ~200 birds) plus at least one (Greater) Short-toed Lark and several Meadow Pipits were coming to drink from water in a ditch. Attempts to get closer to the birds were thwarted by a couple of local lads showing off their motorbike skills. So we headed towards the farm where House Sparrows and a pair of White-crowned Black Wheatears were found while groups of nine, four, four and then two Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew overhead calling. We returned towards the main road and explored the general area seeing several more Desert and Red- 19 rumped Wheatears plus three Long-legged Buzzards soaring on thermals. In the clear haze-free morning light and set against the distant snow-capped summits of the High Atlas we could better appreciate these relatively long-winged buteos with their rufous/orange belly and undertail, prominent black carpal patches and rufous/orange upper tail with distinctive white base. We left at 09.45 but overall I felt a little disappointed by our time on the Tagdilt plain, probably because my expectations had been overly raised by reading many glowing accounts from other trip reports.

We returned to Boumaine Dades for provisions and then at 11.30 headed west on the N10 through the Vallee du Dades stopping for lunch beneath the welcome shade of some roadside trees. Trumpeter Finches, Stonechats, Black Redstarts, House Buntings, Greenfinches, White-crowned Black Wheatears plus a very handsome and photogenic male Moussier’s Redstart were seen as we munched on – you guessed it – sardines and processed cheese filled bread rolls. Keith had gone walkabout and in the distance we saw him raise two arms skywards – the sign he had found something very good. We rushed through a nearby field and orchard but what were thought to be Maghreb Wheatears (our target bird for the afternoon) turned out to be a pair of Desert Wheatear at their nest site. 20

Moving on, we stopped again at 13.45 near more areas of cultivation finding our first (a first-year) Whinchat and a Barbary Falcon spooking more sandgrouse. We were now heading into an area, just west of El-Kelaa, where Maghreb Wheatears had been reportedly seen on roadside posts. With all eyes peeled we stopped at 14.10 finding more Trumpeter Finches, Stonechats, White-crowned Black and a Northern Wheatear. Through Skoura/Scura and another roadside stop this time finding four Stonechats, White-crowned Black and Desert Wheatears, several Chiffchaffs, a pair of Spectacled Warblers and a Desert Warbler all together in a busy feeding party in the middle of nowhere – interesting! A hawkmoth invaded the bus but flew out of the driver’s window before I could get on to it and we had a couple more stops but failed to find our wheatear. We eventually reached the large town of Ouarzazate at 15.30 and drove to the Barrage el Mansour, a large lake formed by damming the Oued Dades and Draa.

Here a party of 17 Glossy Ibis were busing feeding in the shallow reed-fringed waters, together with Cattle and Little Egrets and Grey Herons. On the muddy side of the lake, many Chiffchaffs were busily feeding with Meadow Pipits, White and Spanish (Yellow) Wagtails plus at least two Bluethroats. On the lake, we noted Cormorants, 37 Greater Flamingos, Shoveler, Mallard, Shelduck, Little and Great Crested Grebes, Coot and Black-headed Gulls. Walking on over the dried mud of a spit extending into 21 the lake we found a Sedge Warbler and several Chiffchaffs, looking very fresh and ‘Willow Warbler’- like with deep green upperparts. Long distinct supercilium, yellowish above the lores and dark legs all pointing toward Iberian Chiffchaff.

Swallows and Sand Martins were hawking over the water and further scans of the lake found a Great White Egret, 11 Black-tailed Godwits, single Greenshank and Avocet, a couple of Marsh Harriers and an Osprey perched on a dead tree. A confiding Crested Lark allowed a close approach and photos and is presumably of the riggenbachi race. We then bumped into and exchanged notes with a Rockjumper birding group, which included Chris Cox, a fellow birder from Kent (it’s a small world!) With the light dimming, we left the lake at 17.30 for the short 15-minute drive through rush-hour Ouarzazate, arriving at our overnight stay, the Hotel Le Fint.

WEDNESDAY 24TH FEB 2016 (DAY 9): BARRAGE EL MANSOUR – AMERZGANE – UPPER SOUSS VALLEY - AGADIR

Leaving at 08.00 we returned to the Barrage for a morning’s birding. A Little Owl was perched on an old building while on the water we noted totals of four Ruddy Shelduck, 38 Marbled Duck, 10+ White 22 Stork, 19 Glossy Ibis, the same 37 Greater Flamingoes, many Coot, 12 Little Ringed and seven Kentish Plover, 22 Greenshank and a Redshank, five Wood and one Green Sandpiper. While onshore we found a Hoopoe, Crested Larks, Spanish Yellow and White Wagtails, Meadow Pipits, a Red-throated Pipit (found by Keith), a Bluethroat, two-three Sardinian Warblers and at least one ‘good’ Iberian amongst the many (Common) Chiffchaff. At 09.45 we left Ouarzazate for the long drive west on the N10 to Agadir. Knowing we were leaving the area where Maghreb Wheatear had been reported we took a diversion northward on the N9 in the direction of Marrakech. In the small village of Amerzgane we took a left turn down through the small fertile river valley and then up a winding road into dry rocky hills. As we gained height we immediately started to see Black Wheatears and as passed over the top of the rise a pale wheatear flashed across the road and we shouted for the coach to stop. We quickly picked out a distant Desert Lark, surprisingly scarce and perhaps the bird seen from the bus. However, a few minutes later, a plain pale buff-brown wheatear with even paler throat was found among the boulder- strewn hillside. To confirm our best hopes, we then spotted a second very smart bird with black upperparts, silvery-white capped black head and throat with gleaming white chest and belly. At our last opportunity we had stumbled upon a pair of Maghreb Wheatears.

23 The pair were probably newly arrived on their breeding grounds. The male bird approached closer and as it flew alongside one could see the white on the tail extending up the rump and pale-edged flight feathers - similar to Mourning Wheatear I’d seen previously in Israel. Some authorities consider Maghreb and Mourning Wheatear to be races of the same species, but others have ‘split’ the two, primarily on account of the sexual dimorphism of the Maghreb – I endorse the decision of the latter camp! We watched the pair for a good half an hour and then reluctantly (but happily) heading south to rejoin the N10.

Onward through Anezal reaching Tazenakht (a town known for its Jenif carpets, many orange-coloured by safran/saffron) just after noon to stock up on provisions. Then through Kourkouda, shortly after which we stopped for lunch near an attractive farm with lush saffron fields and Olive and Almond groves in full blossom. The air was noticeably warmer and spring-like and there had been an emergence of day-flying Bordered Straw moths busily nectaring on the blossom. The fields were alive with butterflies namely Painted Ladies, Clouded Yellows (including several of the helice form) and other unidentified ‘Whites’. Birds included both Crested Larks and a Thekla Lark (which posed well for the camera), Chaffinches, Greenfinches, Serins and a Common Chiffchaff in full song (the first we had heard on the trip).

24 We left at 14.00 driving through Taliouine before stopping again beside a large Argan grove. Argan trees are endemic to this part of Morocco and an important source of edible oil, timber, fuel and forage in Berber society. The deep green thorny trees/bushes with gnarled trunks were adorned with yellow olive-like fruit and very popular with the local goats which were clambering up to feed. The local shepherd was looking after a couple of hundred goats and seemingly oblivious to our presence. The birding was relatively quiet until Keith again came up trumps finding a Western Orphean Warbler high in an isolated Argan tree. The bird was in sub-song however you could still make out rich thrush- like notes but it was very difficult to see. It should some interest to a tape but kept hidden however most folks eventually got some decent views.

At 15.45 we continued the drive west and just before Abolouz at the head of the Sous valley we turned left down a minor road (P1706) entering Arzane at 16.30. All along the Sous valley we passed mile after mile of commercial farms, glasshouses and orchards and at 17.00 we rejoined the main highway just south of Taroudant and then into the hurly burly of rush-hour in the city of Inezgane driving north a further 13km into Agadir. It was all a bit of a shock to the system after a week or so in the mountains and desert. Our home for the next 2 days, the Anezi Towers Hotel, was a modern high rise four-star with great views of the Atlantic Ocean and north over Agadir city centre and port. After a long day on the road we relished the opportunity to freshen up and enjoyed an excellent ‘all you can eat’ buffet dinner in a very swanky shiny black marble and glass restaurant.

THURSDAY 25TH FEB 2016 (DAY 10): AGADIR MARINA – TAGHAZOUT PLAGE – CAP RHIR – TAMRI – AGADIR FISH FACTORY – OUED SOUS / CAMEL TRACK

After an equally excellent buffet breakfast we were ready at 08.00 for the off. While waiting for the minibus Peter drew our attention to the Peregrine perched high above our heads on the hotel. We drove through Agadir to the modern marina where Peter had heard a Razorbill was wintering. We had no joy with the auk but noted Yellow-legged and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, a Sandwich Tern and a Common Sandpiper with House Buntings, White Wagtails and Spotless Starlings on the quayside.

We continued north out of Agadir arriving at the wide sandy bay of Taghazouf Plage at 09.00. A large flock of 35 Audouin’s Gulls, 100-plus Yellow-legged and single Herring Gulls were loafing about the beach, together with a first winter Mediterranean Gull, five Sandwich Terns and a Curlew. Offshore, we found two Razorbills resting on the water below a steady northerly passage of Gannets and Cormorants.

We also continued north reaching Cap Rhir at 10.15. We walked through the hamlet and down towards the lighthouse. En route we found a Southern Grey Shrike of the L. m. algeriensis race found on the coastline of NW Africa with no supercilium and a broad black mask. Just offshore there were several local open fishing boats around which were more Razorbills in small rafts, possibly totaling 25 or more (which I understand to be an exceptional count for Morocco) however they drifted further north before a proper count could be undertaken. Up to four Balearic Shearwater (a critically-endangered species) were gliding between the boats and further out two European Storm-petrel were found. Gannets and Sandwich Terns were moving north along with eight Oystercatchers and a single Whimbrel. On the way back to the coach, Small Copper and Common Blue butterflies were seen. We left at 11.45 to continue north.

26 As we drove up the coast road we suddenly saw of flock of 25 (Northern) Bald Ibis wheeling high over the hill-side and then, set against the blue background of the Atlantic, dropping and alighting close by – wow! They were then joined by another flock of 38 birds, making a grand total of 63 of one of the world’s critically endangered species.

BirdLife International reports over 95% of truly wild birds are concentrated in this one sub-population in Morocco and due to management actions and improved breeding success, numbers have been increasing with 524 individuals in 2014. We watched the flock for some time and when they departed had a closer look at the Pallid Swift colony on the sea-cliffs. One of our team thought that they had seen a Plain Swift but we could not confirm the sighting. Walking back to the bus through the knee- high scrub I noticed several Striped Hawkmoths nectaring on the flowers and posing for the camera.

At 12.57 we reached the small town of Tamri, which judging by the local trade, appeared to be the banana capital of Morocco. We had a chuckle at how Peter, donned in in his yellow Birdfinders shirt, was virtually invisible against the fruit hanging in huge bunches from every shop. We drove a short distance through the marquis to a small hill overlooking the Tamri estuary, now blocked by a large sand-bar. On the way we found a Stone Curlew close to the track and after our usual lunch explored the nearby scrub-covered dunes flushing a pair of Barbary Partridges, more Chiffchaffs and Crested Larks (presumably of the Riggenbachi race) plus further sightings of the Bald Ibis flock which was now feeding close to a distant coastal fort.

We had expected to have to travel further north to connect with the Bald Ibis but as we had been fortunate, we decided to use the time gained to visit a fish factory just north of Agadir which we had noticed on the way up to be attracting huge numbers of gulls. At 16.00 we found ourselves scanning through thousands of Lesser Black-backed (both graellsii and intermedius) and Yellow-legged Gulls perched on the factory roofs and very noisily squabbling/feeding on the crimson bloody (and very smelly) discharge from the processing plants. However, try as we might, we could not find the Kelp Gull that had been reported to be present. Heading back, one of our party found a pair of Western

28 Subalpine Warblers in a palm tree above the bus, the male of which descended into some low bushes where the photographers were able grab some pictures.

Time was pressing as we drove south through Agadir and by 17.15 reached the Oued Sous Nature Reserve adjacent to the King’s Palace, complete with armed guards and sentries. Peter was smartly out of the bus and ‘scoping the gulls on the sandy shores of the river estuary when he said “what do you think of the gull”? I peered through his scope seeing 10-20 Mediterranean Gulls of various ages and I replied so. He looked at me quizzically and said “yes but what about the darker-mantled bird?” The penny dropped like a bolt from the blue; it was a first-year Franklin’s Gull!! This rare vagrant to Europe should have been wintering on the Pacific coast of South America so I was rather taken aback to find it here in Morocco; but I’m not complaining. After this, I was a bit more diligent going through the gulls finding single Black-headed and Greater Black-backed Gulls. Other birds included 50-plus Greater Flamingos, Dunlin, Black-tailed Godwit, a party of six Ruff and an Osprey however I missed the Grey Plover.

By now the sun was setting and we gathered around the bus peering into the gloom but carefully avoiding looking in the direction of the King’s Palace following dire warnings from Peter about the potential consequences. A pair of Stone Curlew and a Spoonbill flew out of the marsh and then from the distance we could briefly hear the distinctive toc-toc-toc call of Red-necked Nightjar. Now in darkness, Peter suggested we walk the camel track and here we heard a pair of dueting Red-necked Nightjars, this time much closer, and Paul was fortunate to actually see a bird hawking moths over a street light. It had been a long day but with all goals achieved we headed back to our hotel for another celebratory buffet dinner.

FRIDAY 26TH FEB 2016 (DAY 11): OUED MASSA - SIDI WASSAI – PONT DU MASSA – OUED SOUS

We left at 08.00 after another good breakfast, noting the Peregrine perched overhead. By 09.30 we were driving through the attractive village of Sidi Ouassa, noting a flock of Glossy Ibis overhead, approaching the southern edge of the Parc National de Sous Massa. On the way we paused to scan some small stone-walled fields (which would not have looked out of place in Derbyshire) finding a pair of entertaining Little Owls and at least one Sone Curlew. We stopped at a narrow low road bridge over the Oued Masa at Arbhalou near Sidi Wassai (Wassay) noting several singing Cetti’s Warblers, Zitting Cisticolas and Serins, a pair of Common Sandpipers and a Moorhen on the river over which a steady trickle of hirundines were hawking. Barn Swallows and Sand Martins were noted (plus another distant martin species that looked promising but remained unidentified) plus three Little Swifts. We ticked off Yellow Wagtails, a pair of Common Kingfishers, a Little Grebe and a party of Common Bulbuls. At 10.05 we finally heard the unmistakable song of a Black-crowned Tchagra consisting of ‘loud powerful glissando whistles’. It approached closely, in response to Peter’s tape, and we were all treated 29 to great views of the bird, the only member of the mainly African bush-shrike family to be found in the Western Palearctic. The commotion attracted a second bird and others could be heard calling further up and down the river. We took a relaxed walk downstream along a raised path, through pleasant green fields in lovely warm sunshine, finding (in order of appearance) Sardinian Warblers, a pair of Moussier’s Redstarts (the female of which I mistook for Common Redstart), Stonechats at their nest site, a Whinchat, Blackcaps, Chiffchaffs, Laughing Dove, another Tchagra, Crested Larks, Great Tits, a Hoopoe and decent views of the local race of Great Cormorant (P. c. maroccanus/lucidus), before returning the mini-bus. Enjoying the area, we decided to follow the path up-stream finding a similar range of species, adding four Cattle Egrets, an Indian Mongoose (not a bird!), a Woodchat Shrike, at least two calling Quail and House Buntings plus Spanish Yellow Wagtails, Stonechats, a Zitting Cisticola and an African Grass Blue (butterfly) posing for the camera. Overall a very pleasant time was had by all.

With tummys rumbling we drove toward Sidi Wassai stopping briefly on a bluff overlooking the river where I heard our first Willow Warbler of the trip singing in the verdant riverside vegetation. We took lunch by the river where we spotted a Plain Tiger butterfly and were treated to close-up views of another Black-crowned Tchagra.

30 At 14.10 we left, rejoining the main highway to Tiznit. 20km north of Tiiznit we stopped at the Ponte du Massa hearing several Reed Warbler species. Walking through a construction site we headed down to the boulder-strewn riverbed where there was only a trickle of water and headed down-stream toward a sandbank, about 3-4 metres in height, that had been cut by the river. A few Barn Swallows and Sand Martins were flitting over the stream and pools and then yes – maybe – definitely – a Brown-throated (Plain) Martin. This species once relatively common in Morocco (its’ only outpost in the Western Palearctic) has dramatically declined due to agricultural abstraction depleting the river flows. We found a small colony of two-to-three pairs excavating nest holes in the sand bank and stood back to avoid disturbance. I spent a good while trying to photograph the Plain Martins as they zipped and flitted over the river, eventually getting a half-decent shot (and then deleting the thousands of out-of-focus / out-of-frame attempts). We set up ‘scopes to have a final look at the colony and noticed a pair of Brown-throated Martins hovering frantically near the entrance of a nest hole which we then found to be occupied by a viper attempting to snatch a bird.

Greenfinches, Chaffinches and Crested Larks were seen as we returned to the minibus and then we drove back north returning to the Oued Sous. The first bird found was the first winter Franklin’s Gull,

31 this time a little closer, plus Black-headed, a Greater Black-backed and our first Common Gull, a confusing immature bird with very pale wing-panels, and an Audouin’s Gull

A party of Maghreb Magpies approached the minibus, allowing close photographs, while Wood Pigeons and a Stone Curlew could be seen over the wall on the golf course. A Sparrowhawk flew past but it was now 18.00 so we returned to our hotel in Agadir to freshen up before dinner.

SATURDAY 27TH FEB 2016 (DAY 12): OUED SOUS - ESTUARY & CAMEL TRACK

Our last day. Up for a late breakfast and then a short detour (to find a cyber café to check-in and print off my boarding pass – sorry!) before heading back to the Oued Sous Massa Reserve for a morning’s birding before our flight home. Arriving at 09.00 we parked by the riverside and headed off on a walk through the salt-marsh towards the mouth of the estuary.

There was the usual collection of Flamingos, gulls (but no Franklin’s) and waders on the river and after a couple of scans found the Grey Plover for my trip list. Walking through the saltmarsh we found Sardinian Warblers, Zitting Cisticola, Chiffchaffs, a Kestrel and two Ospreys, one of which flew close 32 overhead. We paused to scan the river again finding four adult and one immature Slender-billed Gulls, 12 Audoin’s Gulls and ten Kentish Plover. As we walked over the sand toward the estuary mouth we came across a group of 60-plus Kentish Plover (including one elaborately colour-flagged and ringed individual – left green over red; right blue over yellow) together with a dozen Dunlin and two Sanderling.

A brief sea-watch in a freshening sand-driving wind revealed a steady stream of Gannets moving north plus four Audoin’s Gulls and we briefly scanned the hundreds of Yellow-legged and Lesser Black-backed Gulls plus a group of 40-plus Sandwich Terns gathered on the river. A quick look over the pools near the walls of the King’s Palace found Black-tailed Godwits, Avocet, Greenshank, Redshank, Black-winged Stilts, Shoveler, Mallard and Shelduck, however we did not linger in case we attracted the attention of the guards. So we headed back to the car park finding three Stone Curlew sheltering in the dunes and as we approached the river found a Bar-tailed Godwit (two seen earlier) with the ‘Black-wit’ flock and a Knot, both new for the trip, plus a party of five Spoonbills heading north.

33 Now back at the car park we decided to chance the camel track in daylight finding African Chaffinches and four-five Barbary Partridges, in the rough weedy margins of the golf course. Using the wall as cover, I was able to approach the birds for a couple of close photographs.

We took lunch near the golf course and with sandwich in hand had a last look around the area noting Serins, Chaffinches, White Wagtails, Sardinian Warblers, Chiffchaffs, Magpies, Common Bulbuls and a Small Copper butterfly. All too soon, it was time to depart for the airport which we reached at 15.30 in plenty of time to check-in, pass security and have a meal before an uneventful flight back to Gatwick and the delights of a cold English late February.

I booked on this trip at the last minute when a ‘personal window of opportunity opened’ and after greatly enjoying a trip to Eilat in March 2015 where I became first hooked on desert birding and was looking forward to catching up on ‘western’ wheatears and larks. Overall a very pleasant and successful trip (despite two big early disappointments; ‘dipping’ on African Crimson-winged Finch and Double- spurred Francolin). I was impressed by the greater density and very special close encounters with desert specialists. Perhaps with a little more planning we could have had a go for the recently split 34 Maghreb (Tawny) Wood-Owl and had not overlooked White-throated Dipper. In hindsight I should have done more preparatory homework on the Crested/Maghreb/Thekla Lark complex as there was insufficient time to go through each and every lark we encountered.

The company was excellent and our leader knowledgeable and helpful. The Moroccan people were friendly, the hotels and food very good and the scenery spectacular, despite the plastic bags. The timing of the trip in late February meant we were far too early for large numbers and variety of spring migrants plus Moroccan ‘near-endemics’ and ‘specials’ such as Seebohm’s Wheatear, Atlas (Pied) Flycatcher, Saharan and Western Olivaceous Warblers, Pale Crag (Rock) Martin and Blue-cheeked Bee- eater. All the more reason for another (more-focused) trip one day, perhaps including the Western Sahara.

AML, May 2016

Tour Leader: Peter Lansdown (Birdfinders). Tour Participants: Dennis and John Coutts, Barbara Dwyer, Colin and Jacqueline Fenn, Keith Fisher, John Greenfield, David Rhodes and Andrew Lipczynski.

35 Appendix

Distribution of Crested and Maghreb (Long-billed Crested) Larks (various sources)

Crested Lark (Galerida cristata)

Kleinschmidti (synonymous with cristata): NW Morocco, south to Rabat and Azrou, east to Taza.

Riggenbachi: W Morocco, Casablanca south to the Souss Valley and lower area of the Mid Atlas.

Maghreb Lark (Galerida macrorhyncha)

Macrorhyncha: Region of Tafilalt (Merzouga, Erfoud and Rissani) and further north, south and east to the Algerian border.

Randonii: North of Marrakech and along northern foothills of the High and Mid Atlas east of Ouijda and generally restricted to higher areas

White-crowned Black Wheatear Tristram’s Warbler

Bar-tailed Lark / (Greater) Hoopoe Lark Bordered Straw moth / Lesser Short-toed Lark