THE END OF MAY/3 KENNETH COLE’S LATEST REACTION/9 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 31, 2005 • $2.00 Sportswear

The Short of It NEW YORK — Who says shorts can’t be chic? For pre- spring, designers are pairing them with playful shrunken jackets, cozy knit cardigans and sweet little camis, all with a hint of prepster appeal. Here, Theory’s merino wool cardigan and linen and viscose shorts worn with Le Full’s linen blouse, Valentino belt and Cecile & Jeanne necklace. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Y ANTONIA SARDONE Y MATEO AMBROSE; STYLED B Y MATEO

Calculating Katrina’sCost: StoresStruggle to Assess Damage

A/NEXT; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR; MAKEUP B HAIR BY A/NEXT; By David Moin and Sharon Edelson business from one of the worst communication because phone lines NEW YORK — Major retailers said storms in history. and cell phone towers are down. Tuesday that most of their stores in Retail executives said their main Nonetheless, Wall Street had an the path of Hurricane Katrina concern at this point was the initially negative reaction to remained inaccessible, making it welfare of their employees, many of Katrina’s destruction, perhaps difficult to determine the impact on whom remained out of See Major, Page 12 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: THAIS OLIVEIR TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 WWD.COM U.S. Weighs Decision on China Imports WWDWEDNESDAY By Evan Clark Sportswear WASHINGTON — If American negotiators don’t GENERAL reach a broad apparel and textile trade deal with Major retailers said most of their stores in the path of Hurricane Katrina their Chinese counterparts today, the U.S. will have 1 were inaccessible, making it difficult to determine the impact on business. to rule on six outstanding quota safeguard petitions As the U.S. worked toward a broad apparel and textile trade deal with covering about $975 million worth of goods or defer China, it prepared to rule on $975 million worth of safeguard petitions. a decision on the cases again. 2 Earlier this month, the Bush administration Federated Department Stores completed its $11.9 billion merger with May delayed a final determination on the six safe- 3 Co., and chairman and ceo Terry Lundgren said it was a “landmark day.” guard cases, leaving open the possibility of new FASHION: Whether they’re rolled, cuffed, pleated, short-shorts or quotas on Chinese cotton and man-made fiber Bermuda-length, designers are long on shorts for the summer season. bras, knit fabric and other goods, as the two sides 6 worked toward a long-term, comprehensive agree- MAINSTREAM: Kenneth Cole Productions and Bernard Chaus are banking ment. A decision on the cases, however, might not 9 on a big response to the spring launch of Kenneth Cole Reaction. be made public until Thursday. Consumer confidence rebounded in August, but economists warned that The possibility of more and immediate safe- 13 higher fuel costs will take a toll on shoppers’ sentiments and spending. guards might push along the talks, which were set WEST: San Francisco’s second annual fashion week redefined its lineup to to continue for a second day in Beijing today. focus on local talent and reposition itself as an emerging showcase. “The U.S. government should certainly be pre- 14 pared to invoke those safeguards,” said a spokes- man for the American Manufacturing Trade SUZY IS ON VACATION Action Coalition, which has pushed for the restric- tions. “One of the thoughts has been it would kind Obituary ...... 16 Classified Advertisements ...... 15-19 of be a slap in the face to China [if more safe- guards are imposed], at least that’s how they To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is would view it. On the other hand, the Chinese have [email protected], using the individual’s name. had plenty of time to cut a deal.” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 Also looming over the negotiations is a Sept. 7 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 190, NO. 46. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional meeting between Chinese President Hu Jintao and issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in President Bush at the White House, where a host of February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL PHOTO BY ELIZABETH DALZIEL/AP PHOTO BY OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., issues — from intellectual property rights to appre- U.S. special textile negotiator David Spooner met with Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill ciation of the yuan — likely will be on the agenda. Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Chinese Vice Minister of Commerce Gao Hucheng. Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General “That’s the ultimate driving point,” said Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Stephen Lamar, senior vice president of the ably different proposals. The U.S. called for low Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: American Apparel & Footwear Association. “If growth over a wide range of categories until the SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS there’s a dispute still out there when the presi- end of 2008, while the Chinese wanted much high- CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. dent comes, that sort of sours the visit a little bit.” er growth rates over fewer categories until the Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four Special textile negotiator David Spooner, who end of 2007. weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- is leading the U.S. delegation to Beijing, also sits It is unclear if China and the U.S. have been 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit on the interagency Committee for Implementation able to bring their positions closer together dur- www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail of Textile Agreements that imposed safeguards in ing the latest round of discussions. U.S. negotia- and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. May restricting $1.31 billion worth of Chinese im- tors are keen to strike a lasting agreement, in con- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ports to 7.5 percent growth this year. trast to the experience of the European Union, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART A broader deal would replace the system of which has been working to renegotiate the deal it WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE safeguard quotas that has vexed retailers and ven- cut with China in June. That deal called for ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. dors trying to lay out sourcing plans. Domestic growth of 8 to 12.5 percent across 10 categories of textile groups said safeguards are necessary to goods through 2008. (See story, this page.) rein in Chinese apparel and textile imports, “The Europeans clearly made a mistake, they ne- which jumped 46.6 percent to 7.9 billion square gotiated an agreement that was far too restrictive,” In Brief meters equivalent during the first half of the year. said Brenda Jacobs, counsel for the U.S. Association Chinese and American officials met in San of Importers of Textiles & Apparel, which opposes Francisco two weeks ago and each presented what import restrictions. “The greatest fear we have is ● LEVI STRAUSS UPGRADED: Moody’s Investors Service has up- people familiar with the talks said were consider- that the U.S. will repeat that mistake.” graded its rating on Levi Strauss & Co.’s $1.85 billion unsecured notes. The ratings service said the upgrade was warranted given Levi’s ability to stabilize sales and improve profitability. For the six months ended May 29, the San Francisco-based company re- ported earnings of $74.1 million on sales of $1.95 billion. Moody’s also pointed to the introduction of the Levi Strauss Signature EU Trade Chief Warns on Embargoes brand into international mass channel markets as a benefit to di- versifying its distribution network. The ratings still remain in the By John Zarocostas painful, but the alternative is “Trying to jump through pro- speculative range, getting raised to “Caa2” from “Caa3.” However, often worse,” he said. “Are we tectionist hoops to safeguard the the rating on the company’s outlook was raised to “positive” from GENEVA — European Union going to send all the unlicensed interests of a minority of mem- “stable” based on the belief the company will be able to generate Trade Commissioner Peter Man- goods back to China? Who will ber states is ridiculous and will enough cash flow after fiscal 2005 to pay down debt. The company delson warned Tuesday that fail- pay for this? Who will compen- solve nothing in the long run,” reported debt of $2.11 billion during the most recent quarter. ure to release Chinese apparel sate importers and retailers for Jones said. imports held in customs ware- the loss of contracts?” But Mandelson is under equal ● GOTTSCHALKS NET UP: Gottschalks Inc. said Tuesday that sec- houses could inflict severe eco- Mandelson has come under pressure from domestic textile ond-quarter net income rose 15.6 percent to $259,000 from nomic pain on retailers and con- increasing pressure from retail- and apparel producers not to $224,000 a year ago. On a per-share basis, profits were flat at 2 sumers, and torpedo the recent ers and importers to resolve the choose an option that waters cents a share; analysts had been expecting 5 cents. Total revenues EU-China import accord. crisis. down the bilateral agreement, in the quarter were up 2.5 percent at $153 million, while same- “I am not confident the Shang- “With almost 100,000 items which restricts the annual growth store sales rose 3.1 percent. “We have made steady progress in our hai Textile Agreement will be sus- from jumpers [sweaters] to under- of Chinese textiles and apparel initiative to appeal to a broader customer base through our focus tainable unless we release goods wear languishing in warehouses imports to the EU in 10 sensitive on several important fashion categories, such as better sports- held at the border,” Mandelson and containers across Europe, it categories to between 8 and 12.5 wear, accessories, shoes and junior apparel,” said Jim Famalette, told the European Parliament’s is little wonder that U.K. autumn percent until the end of 2007. president and chief executive officer of the Fresno, Calif.-based trade committee. “This is a large collections are at risk, Christmas “European industry would be retailer. In the six months, Gottschalks narrowed its loss to $1.7 volume of garments, I realize.” ranges could be limited and many prepared to carefully examine million, or 13 cents, from a loss of $2 million, or 16 cents, a year The goods have been blocked spring fashions invisible if some- any workable proposals which ago. Revenues in the period totaled $298.6 million, an increase of because they exceeded quota lev- thing is not done,” said Sir Digby might be made to alleviate the sit- 1.1 percent, and same-store sales were up 1.3 percent. In the full els agreed upon between the EU Jones, director general of the uation of those who had placed year, the company still expects to earn 59 cents to 65 cents a share, and China in June. Mandelson Confederation of British Industry. orders for such goods in good which compares with analysts’ estimate for 60 cents. Shares of the noted that if EU member states “And it will be the unwitting cus- faith,” said Filiep Libeert, presi- company closed down 3 percent in Tuesday trading at $10.20. rejected his proposals to release tomers who, as always when dent of the European Apparel & the goods the ramifications could countries indulge in protection- Textile Organization. be severe and could result in ism, end up having to pay more But Libeert stressed “any so- shortages during the fall and money.” lution must remain within the Clarification higher retail prices for apparel. The CBI chief also castigated framework of the original over- A photo caption on page 5, Aug. 19, implied that second-quarter He appealed to member states the Brussels-based European all agreement reached with the earnings in Limited Brands’ Limited stores division fell 23.6 per- to take the long-term view and Commission — the executive arm Chinese authorities on June 10 cent. In fact, it was Limited Brands’ profits as a whole that were support his proposals. of the EU — for its handling of and must not damage the inter- down 23.6 percent in the quarter. “Decisions are sometimes the crisis. ests of EU manufacturers.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 3 WWD.COM

FORD TO CARRY CARGO: According to insiders at Condé Nast, Cargo’s lackluster the 200,000 hit mark on her blog, which is back up and The final link in a chain performance has spurred executives to become more running after a brief dark period. She also has a promotional MEMO PAD of publisher changes involved in editorial decision-making in recent months. One Web site at nadinehaobsh.com, where she posted this snapped into place sign of their ongoing tweaks is the magazine’s evolving message: “To all the people who have sent me e-mails of Tuesday when Condé cover formula. When it made its debut, Cargo showed real support, care baskets and questions about beauty: Thank Nast named Lance Ford as the new vice president and guys on the cover, before shifting to male models. This you so much! I’ve learned that when you speak candidly, publisher of Cargo. Ford spent 13 years with the company summer, editor in chief Ariel Foxman intimated to WWD there’s a receptive audience and an opportunity to touch — at Gourmet, The New Yorker and Bon Appétit — before that, going forward, the magazine’s covers would feature people as a credible source. I’m looking forward to using my shepherding the launches of Maxim, Stuff, Blender and The only notable personalities, starting with Roddick. The blog as a platform to provide honest and straightforward Week at Dennis Publishing. He also was briefly the October cover, however, will have a split run. One cover will beauty advice to women of all ages. Thanks for visiting and president of advertising and publishing at American Media show the actor Patrick Dempsey. The other will be an all-text stay beautiful!” — S.J. Inc., a job he stepped down from in July after only three cover trumpeting the magazine’s “Hot List.” The kicker? months. “I’ve come home to roost after being away for nine Dempsey won’t be going to newsstands. He’s on the issue “MADDOX” SPEAKS: One blogger who hasn’t yet been years,” he said in an interview. headed to subscribers. outed is the anonymous author of Ford rejoins Condé Nast The spokeswoman explained, “We are building an annual automaddox.blogspot.com, the fictional blog of Angelina on Sept. 12, the same day Lance franchise with the ‘Hot List.’ The November cover will have Jolie’s adopted son, Maddox. Cargo’s founding publisher, Ford a celebrity.” In an e-mail to WWD, the blogger would reveal only that Alan Katz, officially moves Ford, who presumably learned a thing or two about what he lives in Los Angeles and works in television. “I recently over to be vice president and drives men to newsstands during his time at Dennis, said, had a child of my own,” he explained, “and looking at him publisher of Vanity Fair, and “Launches are always difficult. There are tweaks, you grow made me realize there is so much at stake when it comes to Lou Cona slides from Vanity and evolve and you get it right. One of the things I’m sure parenting. I am now responsible for this little human! And Fair to the same job at The about with Condé is they will get it right.” the pressure was overwhelming at first. I was looking New Yorker, replacing David Condé Nast, Cargo, Gourmet, The New Yorker, Bon through one of the rags and I came across Maddox, and said Carey, who will be heading up Appétit, Vanity Fair, Lucky and Domino are, like WWD, part to myself, ‘here’s a boy that will never have to worry about the company’s new business of Advance Publications Inc. — Sara James and Jeff Bercovici 99 percent of what everyone else worries about’….What fun group. Those appointments it would be to see the world through his eyes, and what fun were announced last week. MR. SEVENTEEN: it would be to share it with others.” What Ford will find when Seventeen has finally Traffic has been spiking at AutoMaddox since the he arrives at Cargo is, by filled the beauty editor Hollywood gossip Web site defamer.com linked to the blog many accounts, a magazine job that almost went to on Aug. 17. WWD mentioned the blog five days later, the that has had some trouble beauty blogger Nadine current issue of People magazine features excerpts from the taking hold in a crowded Haobsh back in mid- site and a copycat blogger has even started a fictional site marketplace. While sister shopping title Lucky connected July. After The New for “Princess Zahara,” Maddox’s adopted sister. fairly quickly with its audience, Cargo is still said to be York Post revealed As of Tuesday, “Maddox” had not received any requests limping along after almost a year-and-a-half on newsstands. Haobsh was the blogger to stop blogging as Jolie’s adopted son. “I have not heard A Condé Nast spokeswoman said the company is not behind from Angelina’s camp,” he said, “and I’m sure I won’t. It’s releasing full numbers for the magazine until the Audit jolienyc.blogspot.com, really not that big of a deal.” — S.J. Bureau of Circulations’ concurrent audits for 2004 and Seventeen rescinded its 2005 are completed next month, but she said that offer. Haobsh already COOKIE TREATS: A word of warning to pedestrians who estimates have Cargo’s newsstand sales averaging had given notice at frequent Madison Avenue in the mornings: Cookie is somewhere above 60,000. She added the magazine is Ladies’ Home Journal, gearing up for its November launch by hosting a stroller delivering above its rate base of 350,000, and that so she was suddenly shopping event on the avenue next month. The magazine publisher’s best estimates have the September issue with without a job. and Divalysscious Moms are teaming up for “Moms on Andy Roddick on the cover tracking at 89,000 copies on So who will fill the Madison,” a shopping preview offering discounts, children’s newsstands, with two weeks left to sell. post at Seventeen? “It’s The October issue of Seventeen. entertainment and giveaways on Sept. 10 at 9-11 a.m. That’s still down, though, from the newsstand average of a boy,” said a Participating retailers include A Pea in the Pod, Bonpoint, 110,000 for the magazine’s first few issues, which the spokeswoman for the magazine, “I feel like we’re having a Caron, Catimini, Clarins, Cozy’s Cuts for Kids, David company reported in a 2004 postal statement. The baby.” The bundle of joy she was referring to is Desi Yurman, Gymboree, Jacadi, Liz Lange Maternity, Oilily, magazine’s single-copy sell-through is said to be hovering Gallegos, associate beauty editor at Teen People, who will Petit Bateau, Shanghai Tang and Vilebrequin. Watch your at just over 20 percent, well below the industry average of be the new beauty editor at Seventeen. shins. Like WWD, Cookie is owned by Fairchild 33 percent. And how is Haobsh faring these days? She just passed Publications. — S.J. Zale’s 4Q Net Drops 41.2% Federated, May Co. Complete Merger NEW YORK — Jewelry retailer impact on our consolidated re- NEW YORK — It’s the end of May. The merger also results in the conversion of Zale Corp. said fourth-quarter sults. With many new initiatives Early Tuesday, Federated Department May nameplates to Macy’s. Federated said it in- net income fell 41.2 percent, being implemented at Zales, sig- Stores Inc. said it completed its $11.9 billion tends to “comply with all existing lease and op- while earnings in the full year nificant repositioning of the merger with May Department Stores Co. erating agreements” as a result of the conver- came in relatively flat. brand has taken place,” said “We will be meeting with the May company sions, which will take place in the fall of 2006. Though optimistic on its cur- Mary L. Forte, president and organization and continuing to learn more The seven additional stores include: rent repositioning strategy, the chief executive officer of Zale, in about its business so we can make the best Filene’s in Cape Cod Mall in Hyannis, Mass.; a company said it plans to close 30 a Tuesday statement. possible long-term decisions,” said Terry Lord & Taylor in the Walt Whitman Mall in to 35 underperforming Bailey In the fiscal year ending July Lundgren, chairman and chief executive offi- Huntington Station, N.Y.; the Lord & Taylor in Banks & Biddle stores after the 31, Zale said earnings per share cer, in a statement. the South Shore Mall in Bay Shore, N.Y.; the upcoming holiday season. are expected to rise 5 to 7 per- Lundgren described the closing of the merg- Macy’s West in Fashion Island in Newport During the three months cent, including $13 million, or 25 er as a “landmark day.” Beach, Calif.; a Macy’s West in Simi Valley ended July 31, Zale earned $4.1 cents a share, in charges from the “Two great organizations have come togeth- Town Center in Simi Valley, Calif.; a Macy’s million, or 8 cents a share, closures of Bailey Banks & Biddle matching analysts’ projections. stores, a $5 million, or 10 cents a Comparatively, earnings were share, stock compensation ex- We see opportunity to bring distinctive fashion and $6.9 million, or 13 cents, in the pense and a $10 million earnings “ year-earlier period. Revenues in gain from its Canadian opera- affordable luxury to our customers. the quarter were $472.3 million, tions. Excluding those items, EPS — Terry Lundgren, Federated” Department Stores Inc. up 3.7 percent. is seen rising 12 to 14 percent. In the full year, Zale earned Total fiscal 2006 revenues are er, and we see tremendous opportunity ahead,” West in Westminster Mall in Westminster, $106.7 million, or $2.05 a diluted seen up 5 to 7 percent with same- Lundgren said. “We see opportunity to bring Calif., and a Macy’s West’s men’s/home store in share, compared with $106.5 store sales up 2.5 to 3.5 percent. distinctive fashion and affordable luxury to The Promenade in Woodland Hills, Calif. million, or $1.99, in the prior Analysts have forecast EPS of our customers, opportunity for our people to “In addition, Federated confirms that it in- year. Diluted common shares $2.36 on revenues of $2.51 bil- grow and develop, opportunity to increase tends to divest either the Filene’s or Macy’s East outstanding totaled 51,975 at the lion in fiscal 2006. shareholder value, and opportunity to be a store in downtown Boston,” the company said. end of 2004, compared with In addition, Dallas-based Zale stronger partner for our communities.” “The specific store to be divested has not yet 53,519 at the end of 2003. said it expects to open 65 new Federated will now have $30 billion in an- been determined.” The firm had total annual rev- stores and 40 kiosks in fiscal 2006. nual sales, making it the largest department Separately, Federated Department Stores enues of $2.4 billion, an increase Investors seemed happy with store retailer. reached a multistate agreement designed to of 3.4 percent, while same-store the company’s 2006 expectations In its statement, the retailer said it added eliminate any potential monopolies related to sales rose 0.3 percent. and sent its shares up 2.4 percent seven stores to its list of previously announced its merger. “The increases to sales and in Tuesday trading to $28.74. Federated-May overlaps. This brings the total As a result, Federated will close or sell 26 earnings in fiscal 2005 did not Separately, Zale said its number of stores Federated will divest to 75. stores in five states. The deal was part of an meet our expectations, particu- board has approved a $100 mil- The closures represent about $2.1 billion in antitrust review the retailer was required to larly due to the underperfor- lion stock buyback program. sales. The divesting of the stores is scheduled complete before the merger. mance of the Zales brand and its — Meredith Derby to begin in 2006. — Arthur Zaczkiewicz 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 WWD.COM Sung Takes On Tocca Gilles Dougoud Named GM By Marc Karimzadeh At Parfums Christian Dior NEW YORK — Tocca wants to project a more singular and consistent voice. NEW YORK — Gilles Dougoud, who has been with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis The company has made some strategic moves for the future, which could see an ex- Vuitton since 1994, has been named general manager of its Parfums Christian Dior pansion into categories such as footwear, as well as a return to lingerie, linens and France unit, beginning Sept. 5. Dougoud is succeeding Philippe Sode, who became freestanding boutiques. international director of sister company Guerlain on June 1. To better serve its plans, Edoardo Mantelli, Tocca’s chairman, will now also as- For the past two-and-a-half years, Dougoud has been general manager of the sume the role of creative director. In this new post, he will make sure there is consis- U.S. businesses of Givenchy and Guerlain, as well as Givenchy’s Canadian division. tency and continuity between Tocca’s ready-to-wear, beauty, accessories and chil- In announcing Dougoud’s appointment, Pamela Baxter, president and chief dren’s divisions. executive officer of LVMH Perfumes Tocca also tapped Samantha Sung as design director for ready-to-wear. Sung re- and Cosmetics, credited him with play- placed Ellis Krueger, who left in March for Sigrid Olsen, where he is design director. ing a major role in guiding the progress “We were looking for some freshness for Tocca,” Gordon Finkelstein, president, of the Givenchy and Guerlain franchis- said. “We were looking to make a design shift. The contemporary field has gotten very es, which were welded into a single U.S. crowded and very homogenous in a way, so it was really about the details, and focus- business unit. ing on the product and elevating it.” “Gilles Dougoud has been instru- Sung reports to Mantelli, and will work with Muriel Favaro, Tocca’s design director mental in the stabilization of the depart- for accessories, who joined the label earlier this year. ment store fragrance business,” she said Since joining the company in May, Sung, 33, has quietly been putting together the Tuesday. “He has maintained a top 15 spring collection, which will be unveiled to the press on Sept. 9. A native of Seoul, she ranking for Very Irresistible Givenchy moved to New York at 21 to study at Parsons School of Design. After graduating from and contributed to rapid double-digit Parsons, she worked at Ralph Lauren as a senior designer for four years, then moved growth for the beauty business in Nei- to Milan for three years to take a job as design director for Piazza Sempione. Before man Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and joining Tocca, she was a design director at Cerruti, focusing on its women’s collection. Bergdorf Goodman. Gilles’ latest accom- Gilles Dougoud and Liv Tyler, the face of When asked what she aims to bring to Tocca, Sung said: “I can contribute my de- plishment has been the success of the Parfums Givenchy. signer-level experience. Even if the price point in contemporary is lower than in de- new Very Irresistible Givenchy For Men, signer, I still believe we can bring a designer element to the collection.” ranking top 10 in all launch accounts,” Baxter said. As for her inspirations, Sung said, “I own thousands of books and I get much of my In his new position in Paris, he will report to Bruno Angibeau, European pres- inspiration from them. I look at fashion and art books, even craft books. I get much in- ident of Dior. Dougoud said on Tuesday that he is excited about the prospect of spiration from books about India and Mexico. I also collect vintage textiles.” managing what he described as a dominant brand in Europe and the market- This complements Tocca’s philosophy, which Mantelli said is based on “sensuality, leader in France. not sexuality.” While the lion’s share of pieces continue to be in Before moving to the U.S., Dougoud led the affiliate of Parfums Givenchy in the U.K. and Ireland. Prior to joining LVMH 11 years ago, Dougoud had worked for 10 years in

▲ Tocca’s Edoardo a succession of European sales and marketing positions for Procter & Gamble. Mantelli and — Pete Born Samantha Sung. MAC Cosmetics Sues MicroDental NEW YORK — The Estée Lauder Cos. and Make-up Art Cosmetics Inc., also known as MAC, filed a trademark infringement lawsuit against MicroDental Laboratories and its Micro Advanced Cosmetics division over its use of the alleged infringing “MAC” mark on dental products and services.

▲ Spring sketches Included in the complaint, filed in a Manhattan federal district court on Mon- by Sung, who is day, were allegations of trademark infringement, unfair competition, false des- Tocca’s new cription and false designation of origin and deceptive trade practices. design director MicroDental Laboratories did not return calls for comment by press time. for rtw. “We have taken the extraordinary step of filing a lawsuit against MicroDental PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Laboratories and its division Micro Advanced Cosmetics, which is using our MAC trademark BEAUTY BEAT to promote its cosmetic dentistry services and to market its MAC Veneers product,” stated John Demsey, MAC’s chairman, in a statement. “This action is necessary to protect our valuable MAC trademark. MAC is one of the most respected names in the dresses, for spring the collection also includes tops, beauty industry with professional credibility and fashion-forward positioning. We boleros and coats. cannot allow others to exploit our mark, to benefit from the enormous value of our The spring collection is very “pirate-y,” Mantelli brand and to create confusion among our consumers.” said, with inspirations ranging from Tahiti to “Mutiny Estée Lauder and MAC asked for temporary, preliminary and permanent on the Bounty,” the film version starring Marlon injunctions against MicroDental’s use of the alleged infringing “MAC” or “M.A.C.” Brando. Sung said her specialty is in intricate detail mark and against applications by the company to register or maintain the trade- and for spring the Tocca collection includes exten- mark in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office, according to court papers. The com- sive embroidery, pleating and ruching. Some dresses plaint also asked for unspecified monetary damages. and jackets have drawstring rope details. — Liza Casabona “Overall you will see more volume and detail, and all of that will be reflected in the price,” L’Oréal Buys Delial From Sara Lee Finkelstein said. PARIS — L’ Oréal has acquired Delial, a sun care brand, from Sara Lee Inter- Typically, the wholesale prices for dresses was national, the French beauty giant said Tuesday. between $110 and $140. These will probably in- Comprising sun care products including protection lotions and after-sun and self- crease on average by about 30 percent for spring, said Finkelstein. tanning items, Delial rang up sales of approximately 20 million euros, or $26.1 mil- Tocca is sold in approximately 225 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Scoop and lion at average exchange, in 2004, L’Oréal stated. Delial, founded 70 years ago, has a Fred Segal. Industry sources estimate Tocca’s wholesale volume in the region of $15 strong footing in Europe and a top-three positioning in Spain, the statement said. million. Finkelstein said he anticipates the distribution to grow with several upscale “The acquisition of this brand means that L’Oréal will reinforce its position in the specialty stores. European solar protection market, especially in southern Europe,” stated Patrick “The matrix is going to shift a little bit, and part of that will come because of the Rabain, chief executive and vice president of L’Oréal’s consumer products division. price point,” he said. “And along with the design shift, there will also be a slight “The Delial range will join our Garnier portfolio and will benefit from solar filter change in the customer base.” technologies developed in the group’s laboratories.” Finkelstein cofounded the company with Mantelli in 1994, and Tocca eventually Terms of the deal were not disclosed. added such categories as home, lingerie, beauty and accessories. The company decid- It’s the second beauty divestiture for Sara Lee within the last three weeks. ed in 2001 to focus on ready-to-wear, accessories and beauty, dropping lingerie and Tupperware said Aug. 10 it agreed to buy Sara Lee’s direct-selling business, an home. Last year, Tocca entered the children’s market with Tocca Bambini, which is operation that includes 900,000 independent sales consultants who market cos- now sold in specialty stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Yoya and Calypso. metics, skin care items, fragrances, toiletries and clothing in 18 countries, for $557 Finkelstein and Mantelli said they are hoping to reintroduce lingerie and linens, million in cash, a deal expected to close during the fourth quarter. and to add shoes in the near future. There are also plans to launch a Tocca fragrance next spring. “The beginning of this strategic shift was to have design directors in the various Quest Names Parize Group VP areas and to have one strong vision, one person to unite them and keep them focused NEW YORK — Isabelle Parize will join fragrance supplier Quest International on Sept. in the same direction,” Finkelstein said. “First, we want to reposition the ready-to- 1 as group vice president of fragrances, succeeding Jean-Pierre Houri, who retired last wear to a certain extent. Once the shift is working and in place, we feel it will open up year. Parize, who will report to Quest’s chairman and chief executive, Charles Knott, opportunities in other categories.” also will join Quest’s board. She will be based at the firm’s worldwide headquarters in That could even include more freestanding stores. Tocca once had boutiques in cities the U.K.; Quest is a division of London-based Imperial Chemical Industries Group. such as New York, Tokyo and London, but except for the Tokyo unit, closed them several Parize was most recently chairman and ceo of Canalsatellite and president of Canal years ago. “There is a very strong possibility of stores,” Finkelstein said. “In five years’ Distribution, which are subsidiaries of Group Canal Plus, a French pay-TV firm. time, I could see potentially 10 Tocca stores.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 5 WWD.COM

An ad for Maidenform Cuts Loss in 2nd Qtr. Maidenform. By Vicki M. Young percent to $87.5 million, while retail sales at its outlets gained 2.1 percent to $14.8 million. NEW YORK — Maidenform Brands Inc. on Tuesday For the six months, the loss was $8.5 million, or 43 narrowed its second-quarter loss on stronger sales, re- cents a diluted share, versus a loss of $8.8 million, or 54 flecting improvement in the company’s operations. cents, in the year-ago period. Sales gained 17.4 percent For the three months ended July 2, the loss was to $202.5 million from $172.5 million. $11.5 million, or 58 cents a diluted share, versus $12.1 “Our operational and financial performance in the million, or 78 cents, in the same year-ago quarter. The second quarter reflects the continuing strength of our results in the year-ago quarter included May 11, 2004, diversified product portfolio across our multichannel through June 26, 2004, when the company was acquired distribution platform,” said Thomas Ward, chief execu- by Ares Corporate Opportunities Fund, and the period tive officer, in a statement. beginning March 28, 2004, to May 10, 2004, when it was With the closure of the firm’s two manufacturing fa- the predecessor firm. Excluding preferred stock divi- cilities, Ward added that the company completed its dends, net income was $2.6 million against a $10 mil- strategic repositioning as a marketer, rather than as a lion loss in the year-ago quarter. manufacturer. Sales rose 8.9 percent to $102.3 million from $93.9 The company went public on July 22, and trades on million. The company said wholesale sales rose 10.2 the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol “MFB.”

Delta Apparel Acquires Assets Of Liquid Blaino NEW YORK — Delta Apparel Inc. recently acquired sub- stantially all of the assets of Liquid Blaino Designs Inc., which does business as Junk- ™ food Clothing. STYLEMAX The undisclosed purchase price consists of $20 million SPRING 2006 of cash subject to a post-clos- ing adjustment, a $2.5 million OCTOBER 22-25, 2005 seller promissory note and contingent payments over a four-year period if certain targets are met. Fred Schmitt, a banker at The Sage Group, which rep- resented Liquid Blaino, said, “This is a good fit for both firms, as they have core com- petencies in the T-shirt cate- EXPERIENCE FASHION. gory and there could be some sourcing synergies. The real strength of Junkfood, like MORE THAN 4,000 OF THE NATION’S many young apparel firms, is TOP LINES THE MERCHANDISE MART CHICAGO the management team. [In this case, the] owner will stay EXPERIENCE CONVENIENCE. on and run the business.” The banker said potential areas for Junkfood’s growth ONE EASY-TO-SHOP SHOW FLOOR, include additional licenses DISCOUNTED HOTEL AND TRAVEL RATES and new product categories. Natalie Grof and Blaine EXPERIENCE EXCITEMENT. Halvorson started the Los Angeles-based firm in 1998 ATTEND FASHION SHOWS AND through a T-shirt line with li- censes such as Twister, Candy ENJOY MARKET PARTIES. Land and My Little Pony. Sales for the 12 months ended EXPERIENCE MORE. June 30 were $27 million. Delta said in a statement that NEW ACCESSORY AND it expects the acquisition to CONTEMPORARY RESOURCES add $33 million to $38 million PREMIERING AT STYLEMAX in sales and 30 cents to 35 cents to its earnings per share for the fiscal year ending July FOUR SHOWS. 1, 2006. A source familiar with ONE FASHION DESTINATION the deal said the earn-out FOR EVERY SEASON. could raise the total purchase price to the $40 million to $50 THE MERCHANDISE MART, CHICAGO million range. For discounted hotel and airline rates, Robert Humphreys, presi- log on to our Web site or call Mart dent and chief executive offi- Travel Services at 800.528.8700. cer of Delta, said in a state- For more information or to register for ment, “The purchase of Junk- STYLEMAX, visit our Web site or call food keeps with our strategy 800.677.6278. of acquiring profitable ap- parel operations that expand For exhibitor information, please call our channels of distribution.” 312.527.6011. Junkfood’s operations will remain in Los Angeles. www.merchandisemart.com — V.M.Y. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 ▲ ▲ Vince’s cashmere cardigan and cotton tank; Mint’s cotton shorts. Jimmy Choo shoes; Mia & Company locket;locket; LindaLinda Kraus necklace; Cecile & Jeanne cuff.

Rebecca Taylor’s merino wool cardigan, cotton voile camisole and cotton twill shorts. Marc Jacobs shoes; Jill Alberts necklace. NEW YORK — Who Jacobs shoes; Jill Alberts necklace. wears short-shorts? Cool girls everywhere. But they also love their longer counterparts, whether they’re rolled, cuffed, pleated or Bermuda-length. These playful numbers are perfect for any In afternoon in the park. Brief WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 7 WWD.COM Tsesay’s cotton and acrylic knit cardigan and cotton stretch shorts; Zooey’s cotton T-shirt. Necklaces by Jill Reno.

Trovata’s cotton cardigan and blouse; Cacharel’s cotton shorts. OSE/REDKEN/WARREN TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMMA DUNBAR; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE EMMA DUNBAR; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: FASHION TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; OSE/REDKEN/WARREN

Development’s cotton voile top and cotton shorts. Christian Dior by John Galliano shoes; PPaatchtch necklace. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: THAIS OLIVEIRA/NEXT; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/LOREAL PROFESSIONNEL/FRANK ARENDS; MAKEUP BY MATEO AMBR MATEO ARENDS; MAKEUP BY PROFESSIONNEL/FRANK RIAD AZAR/LOREAL HAIR BY CENTENO; MODEL: THAIS OLIVEIRA/NEXT; TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 WWD.COM Intermix Outfits SoHo NEW YORK — Intermix’s latest arrival is off to a strong start. The retailer’s new 4,000-square-foot flagship is situat- Mannequins ed on a prime SoHo block, between Mercer and Greene display Intermix’s Streets, opposite the Mercer Hotel, Miu Miu, J. Crew and eclectic style. an Apple computer store. On Saturday, the store’s soft opening, consumers bought the unit’s entire supply of $1,380 Chloé Paddington bags and $495 Iisli sequin jack- ets. Many LaRok fitted velvet jackets were sold at $295 and lots of Vince sweaters were purchased at $285, said Khajak Keledjian, chief executive officer, who owns Intermix with his brother, Haro. “We had very high unit per transactions,” Keledjian said. “That means people are buying into the look. They’re buying outfits.” Outfits is the operative word at Intermix. What makes the chain different from other specialty stores is that it merchandises clothes by complete look rather than by item, category or designer. The store is divided into three zones — day, night and weekend. Consumers often buy the outfits in toto. “Department stores can’t do this because their de- partments are spread out over different floors,” Kalad- jian said. “This is more of a stylist’s approach.” The mannequins in the store’s windows bear the Intermix imprimatur: eclectic, feminine and luxurious. One wears a Stella McCartney checked cape, a Matthew Williamson burgundy turtleneck, So Taverniti jeans and a navy Paddington handbag. Another is dressed in a Nieves Lavi baby-doll dress, an Adrienne Landau crop-

Complete looks are at the center of Intermix’s philosophy.

ped fur vest, a Corto Moltedo plum bag and a Gerard Keledjian, “from the logo to the marketing. We’ve been Yosca beaded necklace. buying narrower and deeper and giving a wider assort- The Keledjians are careful students of Manhattan ment. There are no rules to the game. It’s look-driven. real estate. Intermix was one of the first specialty stores Any price goes, from a $48 T-shirt to a Stella McCartney to open in the Flatiron district before it became a fash- coat for $1,800.” ionable shopping area. Since then, the retailer has culti- Keledjian is using vendor exclusives to give the store vated a loyal clientele in the West Village, Upper East an edge. Kenneth Jay Lane created a gold necklace with Side and Upper West Side. the Intermix logo, Sonia Rykiel designed sequin sweat- Keledjian said rent on the Prince Street space is ers, Salt’s Bleecker Street jeans are unique to the store about $225 a square foot. Intermix stores here average and Iisli made sweaters in Intermix colors. sales of $2,000 a square foot, and he anticipates the new “We push them to the next level to make their prod- flagship will ring up $1,500 a square foot. ucts more adaptable to this customer,” Keledjian said. According to sources, Intermix plans to have sales of The ceo pushed the architects, L.E.F.T., to create $45 million to $50 million in 2005. The company grew at something beyond a rigid white box. L.E.F.T. used a rate of 77 percent in the first six months, when comp- ideas from the craft of dressmaking for interior design store growth was up 30 percent. details and the store’s the structure. For example, the In addition to five stores here, Intermix operates two ceiling, which rises and falls in different places is in Miami and one each in Southampton, N.Y., Boston meant to look wrinkled and folded. Dressing room cur- and Washington. There are three units in Japan. The tains are decorated with zippers and grommets and a company plans to open four stores next year, possibly in fake-leather-covered bench that turns into a cash wrap Chicago, Philadelphia and Washington. A new unit will is stitched with pink thread. bow at Phipps Plaza in Atlanta in October. “We took elements of fashion and used them in a cre- Keledjian said Intermix’s original store at 125 Fifth ative way,” said Ziad Jamaleddine, a partner in L.E.F.T. Khajak and Avenue will be renovated and expanded in January “The metal fixtures even have tattoos that consumers Haro Keledjian when the retailer takes over the second floor. can discover.”

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY “We rebranded the business 18 months ago,” said — Sharon Edelson

show finale of fall fashion, all from Jeffrey. Jeffrey Jeffrey Talk of Fashion Cares Event Compared with last year’s exuberant event, where runway rev- Kalinsky elers cheered with the gusto of college football fans, this year’s By Georgia Lee crowd was more subdued. The mood matched the more subtle ele- gance of the show, which included prim Forties-inspired velvet ATLANTA — As the newly appointed director of designer mer- suits, drop-dead gorgeous gowns in rich colors from Balenciaga chandise at Nordstrom, Jeffrey Kalinsky brought star power to and Christian Dior and an array of boots and shoes, always a the hometown audience at Fashion Cares, the annual fashion Jeffrey specialty. show benefit held Monday night at the Woodruff Arts Center here. Kalinsky, who grew up in Charleston, S.C., got his retail start in In a deal, finalized last week, Nordstrom bought a majority Atlanta 14 years ago when he opened Jeffrey; Bob Ellis, a design- interest in Jeffrey’s stores in New York and Atlanta for up to $50 er shoe store, and a Jil Sander shop in Phipp’s Plaza. He also owns million, and Kalinsky became a member of Nordstrom’s senior Jeffrey New York on West 14th Street in the Meatpacking District. merchandising team. While the deal wasn’t officially mentioned Kalinsky said he’ll continue to run his stores with no major at the event, it was the talk of the evening, which drew 600 guests. changes. August sales, boosted by lines such as Gucci, Marni and “Good for Jeffrey and good for Nordstrom,” was the common Jil Sander, are up 30 percent over last year, he said. Asked if sentiment. Nordstrom’s clout may lead to Jeffrey’s expansion, he answered: Fashion Cares began 13 years ago as an in-store shoe event at “Not tonight.” Bob Ellis Shoes, which Kalinsky owns, and has evolved into At- His role as a consultant for Nordstrom, which plans to grow its lanta’s official fall season kickoff for the fashion world. At up to designer business, is evolving. $500 a ticket, the event draws an eclectic crowd, from young hip- “Jeffrey has such an eye, and assortment,” said Gregg And- sters to old-money Atlanta, dressed in everything from jeans to rews, fashion creative director for Nordstrom. “It’s an amazing evening gowns. Cosponsored by Carter Barnes Hair Artisans, the partnership, but we plan to keep Nordstrom Nordstrom and evening included a silent auction, a live auction and the runway Jeffrey Jeffrey.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 9 WWD.COM In the Mainstream

Kenneth Cole Reaction’s cotton knit Reaction Finds a Better Home sweater with cotton stretch shorts. By Julee Greenberg

NEW YORK — Come spring, Kenneth Cole is hoping to create a big Reaction in the better sportswear department. Kenneth Cole Productions Inc. and Bernard Chaus Inc. are ready to launch the Kenneth Cole Reaction apparel line for spring 2006. Chaus holds the license to manufacture and sell women’s sportswear under the Kenneth Cole Reaction label. This is the first time the company is launching sportswear under the Reaction brand, which already has shoes, bags, eyewear, a fragrance and outerwear. But the launch of Reaction apparel signifies more than just a new clothing line for Kenneth Cole. “You will begin to see Kenneth Cole New York becoming more high- fashion, aspirational and more architectural in design,” said Doug Jakubowski, senior vice president of Kenneth Cole Reaction. “That line will move into the bridge area and into our 60 retail stores, while Kenneth Cole Reaction will be the better brand for our department stores. It’s all about raising the bar of the whole brand. It also makes clear that these lines are two points of view that can be under one roof, but not confusing to the consumer.” Paul Davril Inc., Kenneth Cole New York’s women’s and men’s wear licensee, will launch Kenneth Cole Reaction men’s sportswear, also for spring. The first delivery of Kenneth Cole Reaction, which will hit retail floors in January, is a tight mix of nautical-inspired elements with feminine touches such as a silk georgette top paired with a shrunken pea jacket and cuffed denim knickers. The following deliveries, which will be made monthly, include safari jackets in olive green and khaki, sequined tanks, jersey dresses, casual and dressier knit tops, cotton shorts and bubble skirts. “Kenneth really likes that mix of rustic with shine, tailored looks with feminine elements,” said Judith Leech, executive vice president of design at Chaus, who also is heading up design at Reaction. “It’s better sportswear with that contemporary flair.” In addition to the fashion pieces shipping monthly, the line includes an “essentials” collection that retailers can replenish as needed. This group includes more simple careerwear such as a traditional black suit, tan coat, woven tops and basic pants. The line wholesales from $30 to $95 and, according to David Panitz, chief operating officer at Chaus, the company expects to reach between $20 million and $30 million in first-year wholesale volume. The company aims for the Reaction line to be sold to its existing accounts of better department stores and select specialty retailers such as Nordstrom, Macy’s East, Macy’s West, Dillard’s and Marshall Field’s. “Our goal for Reaction is to be that brand for the urban contemporary-minded consumer,” Panitz said. “And at this price point, there’s a huge opportunity for this brand.” In addition to apparel for the Reaction brand, Kenneth Cole Productions Inc. hopes to launch both home and tabletop collections for spring. Those deals are close to being signed. Besides the Kenneth Cole Reaction, Josephine Chaus and Chaus collections, Bernard Chaus Inc. produces Cynthia Steffe and Cynthia Cynthia Steffe.

Above: Cotton twill A cotton twill blazer, silk chiffon safari jacket, top and stretch cotton sequin tank denim jeans. Here, a and gauchos. safari dress. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 WWD.COM Tibi Books More Than a Sea Island Suite Fashion Scoops By Rosemary Feitelberg Amy Smilovic cloth bikini to be worn with a boy- with one of ish bowling jacket are among the LEG MAN: Zac Posen had fashion followers NEW YORK — Tibi designer her designs. offerings in the 30-piece Tibi for in a tizzy when he sent models down the Amy Smilovic is getting more Sea Island collection. It has runway last February wearing Wolford knit than a helping hand from Sea Smilovic-designed prints, includ- tights with openwork Swarovski crystal Island Resorts. ing a terry cloth printed dress appliqués of his own design. Due to popular In addition to sponsoring her reminiscent of the stained- glass demand, Wolford has collaborated with the first runway show, the fabled windows from the property’s designer to produce the tights. Dubbed Georgia property has tapped her Spanish Lounge, which is made Imperial Legs, the tony tights come in to design a suite, the staff ’s uni- by Rotti in Italy. Pieces will retail either black or gray and are enclosed in an forms and a collection for its well- from $150 to $350 and should gen- oval-shaped box designed by Posen. heeled vacationers. Smilovic, who erate $2 million in first-year retail Photographer Sante D’Orazio shot Posen grew up on neighboring St. Si- sales, the designer said. posse member and actress Paz de la Huerta mons Island, was a natural choice PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE Her designs will also be fea- in a striking pose to coincide with the for Sea Island, especially since in Hong Kong, she plunged into tured on furniture and bedding legwear launch. A limited run of 99 pairs she spent her high school sum- the apparel business by shipping in the Tibi suite. Smilovic said will be available, for a mere $500 each, at mers manning the cash register in 4,000 printed dresses to her par- her SoHo showroom, which has Paz de la Huerta wearing Wolford boutiques worldwide and Bergdorf the resort’s clothing store. ents’ house on St. Simons. She such eye-catching pieces as Cole Imperial Legs. Goodman starting in September. Before sitting down to sketch, has since stopped using their liv- & Sons customized green and Smilovic spent a week at the ing room as a distribution center white paisley wallpaper and a HOLDING COURT: The tennis events just kept coming last week, leaving many Addison Mizner-designed prop- and uses one on the island. yellow and white floral couch, to wonder how the players had any time to practice for the U.S. Open, which erty poring over its archives, For Sea Island’s staff, Smilovic was a source of inspiration. kicked off Monday. On Friday night, female players such as Ana Ivanovic, which include a letter from Win- wheeled off uniforms for 40 differ- “I would love to do a home col- Elena Dementieva, Mary Pierce and the Williams sisters, along with other ston Churchill, photographs of ent categories that guests will first lection. I definitely have ulterior assorted glitterati, descended on New York’s Metropolitan Pavilion for the American presidents at play and see next spring. She is dressing motives for doing this. Since I de- second annual Sony Ericsson WTA Tour and Tennis Channel “Glam Slam” a Town & Country spread of styl- bellhops, bellmen, bell captains, sign most of my own prints, I al- event. Among the celebs who came out were actors Taye Diggs and Anthony ish women on Sea Island in the housekeepers — “even the man ways thought that would be a nat- Rapp, both of whom are starring in the upcoming film “Rent,” based on the Sixties. The latter provided the who sells ice cream by the pool.” ural category for me,” she said. Broadway musical, as well as Emily Mortimer, who is featured in Woody impetus for Tibi’s spring collec- Known for the colorful prints she Sea Island has its sights on col- Allen’s new tennis flick, “Match Point”; singer Brandy Norwood, aka Moeshe, tion, which will be shown Sept. designs, Smilovic has gone beyond laborating with other designers, and the Gastineau girls. Prior to the event, some players prepped for the bash 13 in Bryant Park here. the standard resort attire. Cabana too. Socialite-turned-designer at the Parker Meridien with the help of Stila Cosmetics, Bill Blass and Kwiat, “It’s tons of fun. Every time I girls, for example, will wear Zani Gugelman and Hollywould’s and in a nod to the Open’s new blue courts, the traditional red carpet was go down there I’m in my beach- rolled-up shorts with seersucker Holly Dunlap are two on the re- replaced with one in a bold blue hue. Participants at the pre-party also front condominium drawing,” pocket inserts, striped polo shirts sort’s radar, a Sea Island spokes- walked away with a goodie bag containing $2,000 worth of freebies. Smilovic said. “And I am report- and white and yellow grosgrain woman said. In addition, Polo ing to a guy who says, ‘Just make ribbon belts. The makeover will Ralph Lauren has designed a yet- DOG WALK: Maybe it’s his recent deal with The Estée Lauder Cos. or it the best,’” referring to chief ex- coincide with Sea Island’s $350 to-be-named store at the resort nostalgia for fashion weeks gone by, but Tom Ford appears to be spending ecutive officer Bill Jones 3rd. million in renovations. that will sell Polo Ralph Lauren, more time in New York these days. And just how does he pass a muggy Her ties to the area were fas- A white embroidered caftan, a Blue and Black Label Polo for August day in the Big Apple? By walking his adorable Jack Russell terrier tened tighter when she started shift dress with high side slits and women and Polo children’s wear, around town just a few blocks from Madison Avenue’s Gucci boutique, as Tibi seven years ago. While living HotPants underneath and a terry the spokeswoman said. he did early Tuesday morning. Even walking the dog, though, Ford remained Ford — he was decked out in a sleek, dark suit, white shirt unbuttoned to you-know-where and aviator shades, with his trademark five o’clock shadow scruff in all its full glory. Can’t Make It? Wathne in Trademark Suit Against Polo Ralph Lauren By Liza Casabona

NEW YORK — Wathne Imports Ltd. filed a lawsuit against Polo Ralph Lauren in Manhattan federal court, alleging trademark in- fringement and breach of contract, among other claims. Wathne is seeking $900 million in compensation and punitive damages. Wathne Imports, according to the court documents, is a licens- ee for Ralph Lauren, Polo Ralph Lauren and Polo Sport luggage and handbags. The company signed a license agreement with Polo Ralph Lauren in 1999, according to court papers, which ex- tended Wathne’s license until Dec. 31, 2007. The complaint, filed August 19, but only recently available, al- Get front row access to leged nine claims, including: trademark infringement; unfair NY Fashion Week! competition and false designation of origin; trademark dilution; breach of contract and breach of the obligations of good faith and WWD.com is FREE 9/9 - 9/16 fair dealing; fraud, and negligent misrepresentation. Also includ- ed in the claims were three violations of New York state business laws, deceptive use of marks, deceptive trade practices and in- jury to business reputation and dilution. “We’ve reviewed the complaint, and we don’t believe it has any merit. We will defend the case vigorously,” said a Polo Ralph Lauren spokeswoman. According to the court documents, Polo Ralph Lauren allegedly engaged in a number of actions that Wathne claims impeded its use of its licenses. Among the accusations contained in the complaint were allegations that Polo deliberately sabotaged Wathne’s Lauren line, and used its discretion to approve or disapprove handbag and luggage designs in bad faith. The complaint also alleged that Polo used its discretion to disapprove any advertising, thereby refusing to allow the licensee to advertise. In addition, Wathne alleged in its complaint that Polo intentional- ly manufactured and sold handbags and backpacks using trademarks “that were confusingly similar” to those it had licensed to Wathne.

PHOTO BY MILES LADIN PHOTO Wathne’s lawsuit asks for a preliminary and permanent injunc- For more information contact Stephanie Ferrara, marketing manager, Fairchild Internet, at 212-630-2897. tion on Polo trademark infringing activities and breaches of the li- WWDMediaWorldwide® censing agreement. The company also asked for compensatory damages of $250 million and punitive damages of $750 million. What makes a statement? KENZIE in September W and at MAGIC 2005

MAKE A STATEMENT 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 Major Retailers Weigh Co

The hurricane’s aftermath in downtown Mobile, Ala. ALABAMA PHOTO BY KARI GOODNOUGH/BLOOMBERG NEWS/LANDOV; NEW ORLEANS PHOTO BY CHRIS NEW ORLEANS PHOTO BY NEWS/LANDOV; KARI GOODNOUGH/BLOOMBERG ALABAMA PHOTO BY GRAYTHEN/GETTY IMAGES

Continued from page one time shares of Wal-Mart fell below $45 was in July of 2002. stores yet and it looks like this is going to be a fairly long because of concerns over the impact it will have on gaso- Wal-Mart has been involved in cleanup efforts. The process of recovery,” said Jim Slewzuski, spokesman for line prices and thus consumer spending. The S&P Retail Federal Emergency Management Agency is staging in Federated, on Tuesday. “There is significant flood damage, Index fell 1.7 percent on Tuesday to 447.63, while the the parking lot of a Sam’s Club in Louisiana. The com- no electricity and cell phone towers are down. Our first con- broader S&P 500 dropped 0.3 percent to 1,208.41. The pany has made a $1 million donation to the Salvation cern is to locate our employees and see what they need.” Dow Jones Industrial Average fell 0.5 percent to 10,412.82. Army and a $1 million gift to the American Red Cross. As far as getting a bounceback in business, he noted, Katrina left at least 55 people dead, more than a million “Yesterday, we had 20 Gulf area stores closed and brac- “Sales typically get made up, but that’s not our first concern.” people without power and caused severe flooding in four ing for Katrina’s arrival,” said a Dillard’s spokeswoman Madison Marquette, a Washington, D.C., real estate com- U.S. states — Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida. on Tuesday. “Today, 12 are still closed. We are still receiv- pany that manages The Shops at Canal Place in New Estimates of the overall damage continued to escalate ing reports from our people in the severely affected areas Orleans’ French Quarter, also is having trouble getting in- Tuesday, with at least one risk-assessment company — regarding store damage. We have not heard from all formation. The mall houses such stores as Saks Fifth AIR Worldwide Corp. — saying the insurance industry stores at this time, as some areas are still inaccessible.” Avenue, Gucci and Brooks Bros. faces between $12 billion and $26 billion in insured losses Federated Department Stores only had two Macy’s “Just like most others, we have very limited access and due to the hurricane, making it one of the two worst natu- stores in New Orleans down, though they were hit hard. limited ability to be in contact with anyone down there,” ral catastrophes in U.S. history. By comparison, insured There were also some interruptions to business at some said Joan Suko, Madison Marquette’s vice president of losses from Hurricane Andrew in 1992 — the worst disas- Federated stores in Florida last week due to electric marketing. “It’s hard to get hold of the team. Most were ter on record — were $15.5 billion then, or the equivalent outages and some minor damages. evacuated so they’re not right there, and the authorities are of $25 billion in current dollars, according to AIR. Earlier In New Orleans, “We haven’t been able to get near the not allowing people into the area because of general issues. estimates had placed Katrina’s losses at $9 billion. The hurricane swept through a swath of the country where retailers don’t have their largest concentrations LIMITED EXPOSURE TO HURRICANE KATRINA of stores, though some chains catering to lower-income and rural customers, such as Wal-Mart and Big Lots, re- NUMBER OF STORES ported scores of stores were down. Wal-Mart spokeswoman Sharon Weber said 70 stores Alabama Florida Louisiana Mississippi Subtotal [La. and Miss.] Total Stores % of Total remained closed Tuesday afternoon, but that earlier in American Eagle 15 42 13 6 19 777 2.4 the day 123 were closed. “Typically, when people get back [home] they do have to go shop. It’s important to us Abercrombie & Fitch 13 35 14 5 19 700 2.7 to get our stores open. People rely on us for diapers, Aéropostale 14 29 7 2 9 561 1.6 [baby] formula and all that.” Of the Wal-Marts still closed, most are without power. Chico’s 9 76 11 2 13 672 1.9 However, “We had recovery-assessment teams staged prior Gap Inc. 37 163 39 20 59 2,603 2.3 to the storm and they have been to quite a few locations with pretty good news,” the spokeswoman explained. Limited Brands 58 239 67 32 99 3,666 2.7 “They still can’t get into some areas and have not been able Children’s Place 12 68 12 4 16 989 1.6 to assess damage in New Orleans and along the coast.” Asked about the hurricane’s financial impact, Weber Pac Sun 13 76 14 3 17 990 1.7 wouldn’t specify but said there would be some, consider- Ross Stores 7 74 8 1 9 649 1.4 ing the number of units that were closed at one time or another during the hurricane, in the Florida Panhandle, TJX 21 123 16 7 23 1,846 1.2 Alabama, Louisiana and Tennessee. She had no figures Talbots 10 32 10 3 13 1,040 1.3 on precisely how much in revenue was lost. But reflecting Wall Street’s concern over rising energy costs, shares of Tiffany 0 7 0 0 0 55 0 Wal-Mart fell 1 percent from the prior close to $45.19. In intraday trading, the stock dropped to $44.75. The last SOURCE: MERRILL LYNCH WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 13 WWD.COM Consumer Confidence Rises By Vicki M. Young osts of Katrina NEW YORK — Although consumer confidence rebounded in We are doing the homework and getting people ers’ sales results for August and September, con- August, analysts and economists warned that higher fuel costs ready to go and mobilize. At this point, we are trying sidering the states hit by the hurricane and com- will eventually take their toll on shoppers’ sentiments as well as to gather from the authorities when we might be able pared to last year’s barrage of hurricanes. “Total their spending habits. to get in there. I don’t know that anybody is making a impact on businesses individually seems minimal, Economists expected the overall index to fall to 100.8 because guesstimate as to when they will let anybody in.” with exposure under 3 percent of total store bases of rising energy prices, a factor that led to the decline in the With about 40 stores and two outlets in the South, for the specialty chains covered,” Merrill stated. University of Michigan consumer sentiment survey on Friday. Dallas-based Harolds’ units in Jackson, Miss., and While this summer has seen more tropical Instead, the Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index Baton Rouge, La., were closed on Sunday and re- storms — 11 — than in recent years, the report said rose to a reading of 105.6 in August from 103.6 in July. Its compo- mained shuttered on Tuesday. “The Jackson store is that, in retail terms, “Thus far, the 2005 hurricane nents also gained in August, with the Present Situation Index still closed and power is out,” a spokeswoman said. season has been relatively small when compared to jumping to 123.6 from 119.3 and the Expectations Index inching “We will try to open the Baton Rouge store later 2004. In 2004, four hurricanes — Charley, Frances, up to 93.7 from 93.2. today. Mainly the problem is loss of power.” There Ivan and Jeanne — slammed into the Florida coast One possible reason for the unexpected bounce is that the was no physical damage to either store, she said. from August to September, significantly affecting survey measured sentiment up to Aug. 23, which is before “I’m sure the losses to our business will be sig- sales of both Ross Stores and Chico’s, which had to Hurricane Katrina landed near the Gulf Coastal ports in the sur- nificant because we’re in the middle of huge close 60 to 65 stores during the Labor Day week- rounding Louisiana area. markdowns,” she added. “It’s not going to be a end. Both Ross Stores and Chico’s are the only re- The area is home to the Port of New Orleans and the Port of good thing for us because the stores will have tailers in our universe that have about 11 percent South Louisiana, raising concerns over higher prices for cer- been closed for several days.” of their total store base in Florida.” tain commodities and other goods in the aftermath of Katrina. Scott Krugman, spokesman for the National Merrill also noted that Louisiana and The area houses seafood producers, as well as the storage of Retail Federation, said, “Outside of increasing gas Mississippi do not come close to Florida in terms green coffee beans from Central and South America, suggesting prices, we don’t anticipate this having an impact of population. that consumers will see higher prices in those segments down on retail sales.” Hurricane Katrina is also not expected to have the road. He believes retailers, similar to their efforts a major impact on the hardline retailers. Oil platforms and refineries near the Gulf ports were also right after Sept. 11, are focusing on helping com- “Instead, if the hurricane contributes to even shut down from the storm. As a result, prices for light sweet munities recover from the disaster, more so than higher gas prices, the effect is likely to be broad- crude with an October delivery date briefly hit over $70 a barrel recouping business losses. “The first response based as consumers look to trim spending further. in trading on the New York Mercantile Exchange Tuesday. from the retail industry is support for community.” We do not anticipate a wholesale retrenchment, Heating oil futures, as well as natural gas futures, also climbed Kent Larsson, senior vice president of market- but we could see more trading down and less dis- higher, hinting that motorists will see an increase in prices at the ing at Big Lots, which closed 30 stores in the af- cretionary expenditures.” pump and homeowners could feel the pinch of higher home fected areas, said employees are still trying to Merrill added that Home Depot and Lowe’s heating bills this winter. reach the stores, which are in evacuated or hard typically benefit from hurricanes when homeown- According to Jim Rice, retail analyst at Susquehanna to reach areas. ers prepare for the storm and rebuild afterward, Financial Group, the rise in fuel costs is “the topic of conversa- “All of our people are accounted for,” he said. especially once insurance money arrives. tion among vendors” at WWDMAGIC at the Las Vegas Convention “Our first concern right now has been our associ- Equity analyst Deborah Weinswig of Citigroup Center this week. ates and making sure that everyone is OK. Then Smith Barney maintained August same-store sales “They’re trying to figure out what effect the higher energy we’ll get to our stores. Once we open up we’ll work expectations, despite Katrina. However, she said costs will have on consumers,” Rice said. “The vendors I’ve spo- with local communities as needed. We’ve learned in a report, “We do believe that September same- ken with here are worried. They don’t think we’ve really seen the from the past that the first things the community store sales could be somewhat dampened as cus- impact yet, and some believe Katrina will mean [higher] home needs are basics such as toothpaste and shampoo. tomer traffic is negatively impacted in the South.” heating costs.” I understood water is not an issue. In a little bit, Discounters, dollar stores and clubs should Rice also toured the Off-Price Show at the Sands Convention we’ll get into cleaning materials, mops and brooms benefit from consumers stocking up to prepare Center and noted, “The vendors there observed that many seem and later comes the need for towels and basic for the hurricane, she said, adding, “Typically, unwilling to buy anything unless they are absolutely positive that clothing, then mattresses, beds and furniture.” these retailers experience a lift in demand for an item will sell.” Larsson said some of the items will be donated consumables and survival items as consumers The analyst expects consumer confidence to decline in next by Big Lots and some will be supplied by the com- prepare themselves after severe weather alerts.” month’s survey, mostly due to higher energy costs. Meanwhile, a pany’s vendors. She also said that high-end retailers, such as sell-side analyst said her retail channel check revealed that “It’s hard to say what our losses are,” he said. Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, could ex- some store managers are increasingly noticing a “growing con- “It may be that just the area is flooded. We’re try- perience “a better comeback” in sales because cern among customers over higher gas prices.” ing to scope out the situation.” the luxury shopper is likely to return to the stores Emme Kosloff, analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein, said when Amid all the difficulties, there could be a silver due to notable pent-up demand, while more mod- breaking out this month’s confidence results by income level, “all lining for businesses. erate department stores such as J.C. Penney and groups increased from last month, although improvements were “In the third and fourth quarters and perhaps Federated Department Stores could be suscepti- larger in the lower-income groups.” Yet she pointed out, “Despite first quarter next year, I predict a major spending ble to sales weakness from the hurricane. the relative improvement in confidence of the lower-income con- increase in the affected areas, primarily at stores President Bush, who has declared major disas- sumer this month, the higher-income groups still maintain a like Home Depot and Lowe’s, for cars, home fur- ter areas in Louisiana, Alabama, Mississippi and much higher level of confidence on an absolute basis. nishings and even for apparel,” said Isaac Lagnado, Florida, making them eligible for federal assis- Additionally, we still expect spending by the lower-end consumer president of Tactical.org., a consulting firm. tance, will cut his vacation short and return to to be constrained by high energy prices.” Lagnado said there could be a “big replacement Washington today to monitor assistance efforts for For the first three weeks of August when the survey was con- boom,” which is what happened in Florida after victims of the hurricane. Bush was slated to re- ducted, consumers seemed to have withstood the increase in gas last year’s barrage of hurricanes. “It ends up being turn to Washington on Friday. prices. “Consumers appear to be weathering the steady rise in a net positive for the economy, believe it or not.” — With contributions from Arthur gas prices quite well,” concluded Lynn Franco, director of the According to a Merrill Lynch research report, Zaczkiewicz, New York, Kristi Ellis, Board’s Consumer Research Center, in a statement. there will be “muted” impact on specialty retail- Washington, and Holly Haber, Dallas She said “consumers’ confidence in the current state of the economy, and particularly in the labor market, has propelled the Present Situation Index to its highest level in nearly four years.” A flooded New Orleans Monday afternoon. The last high was in September 2001 when the Present Situations Index hit 125.4. Economist David Rosenberg at Merrill Lynch wrote in his re- search note, “Even with the significant improvement in the pres- ent situations component, we remain convinced that higher en- ergy costs will hurt consumer confidence and spending in the months ahead.” Not everyone believes that consumer sentiment will necessar- ily decline next month. According to Franco, “Expectations con- tinue to suggest more of the same for the remainder of this year.” Consumers in the survey who claimed that business condi- tions are “good” increased to 29.8 percent from 28.7 percent, while those who said the conditions are “bad” slipped to 15.1 percent from 16.7 percent. Consumers who believed jobs were “hard to get” dipped to 23.2 percent from 23.8 percent, while those who felt that jobs were “plentiful” rose to 23.5 percent from 22.9 percent. For the first time since October 2001, consumers claiming jobs are plen- tiful outnumbered those claiming jobs are hard to get, the Conference Board said. Mark Friedman, a specialty analyst at Merrill Lynch, believed that Katrina would have a limited impact on retailers within his coverage range, mostly because the specialty chains have little ex- posure in terms of store base in either Louisiana or Mississippi. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 WWD.COM WWD West San Francisco Fashion Keeps It Local

By Joanna Ramey Quen, 40, said they are already scouting potential locations Colleen Quen elsewhere, perhaps New York or Paris, but San Francisco will re- SAN FRANCISCO — This city’s second annual fashion week rede- main her base. fined its lineup to focus on local talent and reposition itself as an “I feel like we have a good design community. I can come here emerging showcase. and unwind and be creative,” said Quen, a third-generation Bay “The photographs taken here are useful and press exposure is Area resident whose work is equally influenced by French haute good for me,” said Christina Hurvis, 36, before showing her couture and traditional Asian fashions. The blend was evident in spring collection last Friday night for evening and wedding, such her fashion week opener, a dramatic floor-length “Chinese em- as a white silk chiffon tuxedo halter gown with ruffle train, her fi- press” bell-sleeved evening coat cloaked in rows of gold ribbon nale. Hurvis, who learned tailoring in Paris and worked for Dior, tabs that covered a flirty, matching minidress. Gaultier and Balmain, also made sure to invite clients and their Designer Hurvis also said she made San Francisco her base as friends — key for her busy word-of-mouth business. a lifestyle choice, after ending a six-year stint in New York de- The homegrown San Francisco Fashion Week made its debut signing high-end sportswear under her label for specialty stores last year as the brainchild of local event planner Erika Gessin, 28, nationally. “I hit my 30s and I wanted a different, calmer lifestyle. and her Mystery Girl Productions. The first show included de- But I also wanted culture and sophistication,” Hurvis said. signers from Los Angeles and New York. But this year’s shows, Another established local designer, Lily Samii, with 30 years in which closed Sunday, had a clearer identity by featuring just Bay the fashion industry — 11 spent designing her own locally pro- Area talent. duced high-end evening and bridal line — said she participated “We’re doing this to support and promote only local designers, in SFFW mainly to lend support to emerging Bay Area designers to give them a forum for exposure,” Gessin said, lamenting how in the show. Saks Fifth Avenue carries her gowns and she has a “our designers now feel they have to be in New York or L.A. to get boutique in the heart of the city’s Union Square retail district. noticed.” But Samii said she was also scouting for licensing agreements Gessin would like the end-of-summer fashion week to become and fashion week could help her quest. a must-go-to stop for retail buyers, including those already head- Most designers showing their work were relatively new to pur- ing west to attend the mega-apparel trade show MAGIC in Las suing fashion as a business, even as they’ve found success selling Vegas this week. to the sizable cadre of Bay Area independent fashion boutiques. For SFFW’s second installment, the emphasis on area design- San Francisco designer Erin Mahoney, 29, who has been in ers appeared mainly aimed at locals, tourists and boutique buyers. business for two years and sells to three local independents, said Tickets for each of the four nights ran $35 to $65 and the site, the she hoped fashion week would give her further exposure. Her 1,000-seat Palace of Fine Arts, was half to two-thirds filled de- Twenties-glam and theater-inspired spring line has already pending on the show. The crowd was well-heeled and fashionable. caught the eye of Luckymag.com editors, who put her $480 Rocket “The point in coming is to see things you’re not going to see any- Ship coat and $260 Poppy skirt in its September Listings column. where else,” said San Franciscan Kelly Lisbakkan, 24, accompa- Designers paid $2,050 to $2,850 to show their collections. nied by Cameron Phleger, 23, explaining how they personally mix Aside from the runway shows, there was a battery of how-to A-list designers with local finds from the Bay Area and elsewhere. seminars for $35 to $50 each, and included a Model Boot Camp “I’m wearing Armani, but my purse comes from here, by Maria and Makeup 101. There were parties nightly for fashion week at- Purses,” Phleger said, showing off her black leather pocketbook tendees, including one at the Levi’s Flagship at Union Square. inlaid with mother-of-pearl discs she held up against her rust-col- This was hometown Levi’s first time as a fashion week partici- ored sundress. pant, and the denim brand showed its made-to-order sportswear, Leisel Quamie, the stylist for model and television personality available only at the Union Square location, on the runway. Tyra Banks, showed up for Saturday’s shows to see designer “There’s no reason a young designer can’t stay in San Colleen Quen’s spring line of silk evening gowns and cocktail dress- Francisco,” said Mary Gehlar, New York-based fashion division es, a collection the designer calls The Empresses’ New Clothes. director of GenArt. Gehlar, author of the newly published “The “Colleen’s attention to detail and the structure is wonderful. I Fashion Designer Survival Guide,” was a panelist on “How to love the colors,” said Quamie, known as Q. “There’s no question Break Into the Fashion Business” workshop. there is room for more exposure of San Francisco designers.” Being based in the Bay Area may be fine, but for Simon Like other designers at fashion week, Quen said she recog- Ungless, director of fashion at the Academy of Art University nized a commercial need to seek recognition elsewhere, like here, all roads to commercial success still lead to New York or when she participates at the New York emerging designer show- even Los Angeles. room, 30 Van Dam. Ungless has not attended a fashion week here. This year he But Quen said that joining forces locally with fashion week would be with students in New York, readying their collections to could help further “brand my name,” especially important now show at that city’s fashion week. because in two weeks she opens her first store, in San Francisco’s “I think the San Francisco Fashion Week is morale-building for artsy South of Market neighborhood in a space designed by her local designers and I wish them well,” Ungless said. “For some of Lily Samii industrial designer husband, Rick Lee. the younger designers, it’s a good opportunity to start the process.”

ple on cream, could be worn to tea with Southern belles. She whispered the medallion-print fabric was developed by the company based on a blouse that she found in “a little junkie vintage shop” in Los Angeles. Design’s Child Buyers from Macy’s West and Dillard’s, along with the style director from online auctioneer eBay, checked out LAS VEGAS — Hurricane Katrina couldn’t prevent the clothes before the singer arrived with her boyfriend, the multitasking Beyoncé Knowles from flying here Jay-Z. The rapper, who was in town to present his own from Miami on Monday to the Project Global line for Rocawear, supported his significant other by sit- Tradeshows to promote The House of Deréon, the ting quietly in a corner — with dark sunglasses on. new line designed with her mother, Tina Knowles. He finally removed them for his own Rocawear It did, however, keep a few buyers, media and The party, poolside at the Bellagio Hotel, much later House of Deréon representatives waiting for more Monday evening. than three hours for the superstar to arrive, which The power couple arrived around 10 p.m. to the she finally did — even though the trade show’s doors scene, where a few hundred streetwear buyers had been closed for 20 minutes by then. gathered for cocktails and an outdoor buffet dinner. No matter. As Japanese boutique buyers and The guests of honor, meanwhile, enjoyed burritos other fans snapped photos of the megastar behind a and steak from the comfort of an air-conditioned red velvet rope, Beyoncé stroked the cashmere- VIP cabana overlooking the crowd. Temperatures blend jeans, admired the flaring tail of a tuxedo-in- hovered in the mid-90s even then. spired denim blazer and tried on a black sheared Rocawear’s spring collection drew praise from mink jacket that was trimmed with rabbit hair treat- Tina and Beyoncé Knowles launch The House of Deréon. buyers from Macy’s East to plus-size chain Ashley ed to resemble chinchilla fur. Stewart. Guests also got an eyeful of the new women’s swimwear, as models mingled “It’s really important for us not to take advantage of celebrity and throw my name on in boyshort bikinis, cut-out one-pieces and string bikinis. anything,” Beyoncé said. “We want to add a touch of couture with a reasonable price.” Among those posing for photos was Russell Simmons, who, in between photo ops and The line bows for holiday 2005 with a small selection of outerwear, fur, knit tops and chatting with buyers, also was busy approving samples of Phat Farm’s new watch line. denim. Tina Knowles also has been working diligently on the spring collection with the Jay-Z’s line may be competitive with Phat Farm’s, but the two moguls last week line’s co-creative director, Heather Thomson Schindler. became business partners when Jay-Z took the post of president of Simmons’ Def While waiting for her daughter’s plane to land, Tina Knowles pulled from a back Jam Recordings. room a sweet dress that, with its chiffon pleated skirt and four different shades of pur- — Khanh T.L. Tran and Marcy Medina SAN FRANCISCO FASHION WEEK PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE; KNOWLESES BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO WIREIMAGE; KNOWLESES BY WEEK PHOTOS BY FASHION SAN FRANCISCO WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 15

OPENING IN SOUTH COAST PLAZA ORANGE COUNTY, CA GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN Aworldwide leading brand for Italian high-end footwear and leather goods has the following career opportunities available in our new South Coast Plaza Boutique. STORE MANAGER Must have 3-5 years experience, stable work history with excellent communication/organizational skills and a keen eye for visual merchandising. Must be proficient in MS Word & Excel. SALES ASSOCIATE Candidates must be energetic, team driven, organized self- motivated retail professionals. Must have a strong clientele, customer service and follow up skills. If you are interested, please forward your resume to Email: [email protected] Fax: 212-245-3775

Monique Lhuillier, Inc. Growing high end apparel mfr & retailer seeks the following positions for our L.A. Corporate HQ: A/R Specialist F/T, min 3 years exp in dept stores/charge-backs. Executive Assistant Must be bright, energetic, self motivated, multi-tasker. Must have excellent organizational and communication skills. Min 2 years exp at executive level. Shipping - Assistant Manager Individual with 3 yrs exp in all aspects of apparel shipping. Must be computer literate w/working knowledge of Excel. TRUNK LTD, creative, fast growing LA based luxury lifestyle apparel company with national and international distribu- Clerical/Customer Service tion is currently hiring for the following position: Excellent oppty for self-motivated indiv w/excellent organiza- tional skills for fast paced office. Duties incl order entry, filing, Merchandise Manager and heavy phones w/ strong customer service & comm skills. Seeking experienced merchandise planner able to handle Apparel background, comp literate and working knowledge diversity of product divisions domestic and international. of Excel a must. Apparel Magic a plus, but not required. Responsible for managing merchandise timelines, buy plans and general operations. Must be detail oriented, well Salary/benefits commensurate with experience. organized and computer savvy. 5-8 years background in Please fax resume & salary history to: 213.747.9311 wholesale and retail preferable. Please send cover letter, resume and salary history to: [email protected] CONTEMPORARY MEN’S DESIGNER Leading women’s young designer collection located in Los Angeles looking to launch contemporary men’s division. Seeking a creative and talented designer with casual / con- HORIZON temporary men’s experience. Denim and Import experience TEXTILES a plus. Must have excellent communication skills and sharp SALES POSTION: attention to detail with ability to maintain deadlines. Able Knitted fabrics & gar- to work closely with all phases of design and production in ment packages: Domestic a fast paced environment. production and imports; Great working environment with tremendous Fast delivery & huge growth potential and benefits for the right person. E/O/E stock inventory. Call Bobby @ 213-742-7771 Fax resume to (323) 556-6017, Attn: Human Resources 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 Obituary WWD.COM Sheila Solomon, Innerwear Industry Veteran

NEW YORK — Sheila Solomon, to-Z roster of customers. 15 years. Mary McFadden and Ralph a 45-year veteran of the inner- “I learned my lesson very Solomon also was a board Lauren. Before her most recent wear industry, died Friday at quickly,” she said. “I was told it member of the Fashion Crafts stint at sales firm Soifer Haskin, the Castle Senior Living Center stood for ‘kept women’ and that I Educational Council of the Solomon served as national ANDREI JACKAMETS PHOTO BY in Manhattan. Her age could not should never mention it again. High School of Fashion sales manager of Priamo be learned, but she was be- That list was one of the store’s Industries in Manhattan, where Designs, which closed its New lieved to be in her late 60s. most private and lucrative seg- she mentored aspiring lingerie Yo rk showroom in 2003. The cause of death was lung ments of business in the old days.” designers. Earlier, she was a di- Designer Eileen West said, cancer, according to her niece, Over the years, Solomon be- rector of the Underwear & “Sheila was such a joy to work Hillary Feldman. came what many innerwear ex- Negligee Association. with — very professional, knowl- Solomon, who had a fondness ecutives called an “icon” for her Her career as a sales execu- edgeable and creative. All of the Sheila for theater and dancing and ex- community service and commit- tive included sleepwear compa- retailers loved working with her.” Solomon celled as a kosher cook, began ment to the industry. She served nies Eileen West and Cinema Roslyn Harte, president of in 2003. her career as a teenager intern- as secretary of the Under- Etoile at Movie Star Inc. She Lances-Harte, said, “Sheila loved ing at Gimbel’s department store, fashion Club for five years and also worked for several inde- children and she was very in- kkah/Christmas parties and where she worked in accounts as vice president for 10 years, pendent firms in the Sixties and volved in raising money with the Passover/Easter parties for kids payable. She often enjoyed and cochaired the organiza- Seventies, including Fantasy, Intimate Apparel Square Club for at Rusk who were chronically ill.” telling friends about the time she tion’s annual cocktail and din- Dormé and Boutique Industries, the pediatric unit of Rusk Solomon is survived by a sis- came across a file listed as KW ner gala for the Femmy Awards where she sold lines such as Institute, and she was also very ter, Roberta Wilson. that did not correspond to the A- at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel for loungewear by Clovis Ruffin, influential in organizing Hanu- — Karyn Monget

Retail Chloé,the woman’s luxury designer fashion company invites you to join our team! We currently are looking for creative and dynamic individuals to represent the brand’s image as: CUT & SEW KNIT DESIGNER Account Executive Young designer collection located in Los Angeles in the Mid-Wilshire area Based in our NYC showroom, individual will be responsible seeking a highly energized Knit Designer to create a unique lifestyle knit to establish, maintain and support the brand’s direction and line. Must have a min. of 3 - 5 yrs. exp. in young designer/contemporary image; develop relationships with specialty store and depart- market working with cut & sew knits. Import exp. helpful. Must have effec- ment store clients; handle store trunk shows and clinics; as- tive communication skills & strong attention to detail & ability to maintain sist in showroom sales in New York and Paris; and obtain, an- adeadline driven business. Able to work closely with all phases of design alyze and report sell through results. & production in a fast paced environment. Must have 3-5 years of related marketing or designer sales Excellent company benefits package & team-oriented setting with career of luxury ready-to-wear goods, awareness of luxury segment; growth opportunities. E/O/E excellent presentation, organizational, communication and computer skills. Ability to travel is a must. Please fax resume to: (323) 936-7354, Attention Human Resources or Email: [email protected] Boutique Manager Based in our soon to open Costa Mesa, CA Boutique, individ- ual will commence in mid-October & along with the VP, Gen- eral Manager will be responsible to lead & oversee the instal- lation of retail systems as well as hire all Sales Associates. Individual will manage and promote the Chloé brand image as well as to project and produce sales & product mix while focusing on planning and operations. While being responsi- ble for all boutique operations, will oversee and develop staff; enhance quality and maintain integrity of the Chloé im- SALES REPRESENTATIVE- WEST COAST age in the boutique’s market; will have buying responsibili- HIGH PREMIUM JEANS ties in New York and Paris; will manage optimal levels of in- Worn by celebrities like Madonna, Halle Berry, Paris ventories and quality control; in addition will maintain budg- Hilton and other high profile clients. Within short months ets and all reporting systems. it was already in over 300 profile stores! Must have 5-7 years of experience in related marketing or Well established & innovative Los Angeles Denim Co. seeks: luxury ready-to-wear goods, preference given to experience Must have established accounts, contemp & premium jeans exp. in women’s designer collections; a minimum of 3-5 years ex- perience of demonstrated strong leadership qualities manag- Please fax resume to 323-231-0234 or call 323-846-3731 ing a boutique; and knowledge of market environment in oe e-mail [email protected] www.jelessycollection.com luxury segment. Excellent interpersonal, organizational, com- Leading Sales Rep.Wanted!! munication and computer skills are required, with a strong Seeking highly qualified experienced motivated Sales customer service approach to assist in maintaining high level Representative to work in BEBINA JEANS L.A. showroom. of satisfaction. Must have established relationship with buyers. Email resume to [email protected] Interested individuals should email resumes along with salary expectations, indicating position of interest, to: Sales Acct Executive: [email protected] Apremier mfg of high fashion hosiery, located near downtown Or mail to: San Diego, CA, seeks a dynamic, results driven individual to manage activities in Men’s sales. Oversee and develop account relationships and direct sales activities to meet co Motivated Sales Rep for Chloé targets & goals. Experience in this area of retail, with a Fashion Forward Att: VP and General Manager background or knowledge in merchandising and development Jewelry Line 730 Fifth Avenue, Suite 1601 functions, is required. Requirements include a 4-yr college degree, or equiv experience, excellent communication skills, Growing fashion jewelry co. seeks New York, NY 10019 proficiency in MS office suite, Q4BIS and JDE software. West Coast Sales Rep. Must have Benefits. EOE. Send resume to: [email protected] 5+ years experience in industry, No phone Calls, Please exp. with major trade shows, great EOE contacts with stores and buyers, good personality & follow though. Great oppty to work independently and be part of an emerging line sold in top fashion stores in major US cities and abroad. Please send resume & cover letter: 1-800-289-0273 Fax (310) 278-2633 or E-mail [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 17

Fully Equipped Screen Printing SUPPLEX*TASLAN Factory For Sale Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. or Lease in Central NJ.,10 Domestic/Export. [email protected] Automatics, 4 Dryers, Sample Venture Worldwide 1-800-4-SUPPLEX 212-768-3331 Presses, screen room, etc. State of the art equipment ready for your Co. to expand. Email: [email protected] JOBBER/EXPORTER Fax: 732-280-6190 We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. Please call 212-279-1902

24 West 57th Street HUK-A-POO™ Spectacular 4,037 square feet IS AVAILABLE! former shoe showroom space, four windows onto 57th Street, For license in all new modern build-out with Apparel and Accessories two skylights & individual pantry; building has new LADIES - lobby and common areas. MEN’S - CHILDREN SITT ASSET Interested party’s, Ariana Martuscello contact: Dan Stone (646) 414-6596 x 315 [email protected] & during MAGIC contact: Mike Stone @ (516) 817-0182 or Jeff Stone @ (954) 461-9189 VP Sourcing CUSTOMER SERVICE We are a leading supplier of better Footwear/Apparel Exp. Only women’s casual wear to the resort/ “LUGZ” Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 specialty store channel. We seek PRODUCTION MANAGER Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 an individual with 8-10 years of Marc by Marc Jacobs seeks Prestigious Soho footwear co. Production Mgr to oversee Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 sourcing experience and a strong seeks Sr. Customer Service [email protected] production for Wovens Rep/Sales Asst. to interface knitwear/cut and sewn background. RTW. Must have 4+ yrs exp 1407 BROADWAY www.raskinexecsearch.com Must be highly organized and have SHOWROOMS/OFFICES Customized Knitwear with account & sales force. in Wovens production, TREBOR MGMT Design Studio Minimum of 5 years major atruepassion for their work. We’re technical knowledge and Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 Bookkeeper- Full Charge offering a unique & rewarding oppor- account experience. overseas travel exp. High-End Couture Sweater Mfr seeks a highly organized, tunity for the right individual. Please Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production Pls. send resume with salary detail oriented person to run our acctg Responsibilities include 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum dept. Directly responsible for cash flow Fax all resumes (salary must be factory mgmt, costing and 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 Call 917-612-1094 history to: [email protected] management, monthly closing, bank & included for consideration ) to: All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices or Fax: (212) 989-7682 factor reconciliations, chargebacks, delivery tracking. Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 commission statements, payroll. Quar- Human Resources @ 917-591-8042 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com KNIT- and DENIM WEAR, terly Financials. Must work w/ Quick Excellent comp/benefits pkg Uniforms-Fast NAFTA full pckgs Books. Also responsible for office man- &int’l, team-oriented setting For Space in Garment Center Compliant / aql 2.5 / Sales Oppts. Avilable ACCESSORIES DESIGNER ager duties. Fax resume 212-221-8556 Design w/ career growth opps. E: [email protected] Ph:718-358-8278 Helmsley-Spear, Inc. GLOBAL WISE DEVELOPMENT CAD ARTIST/ TEXTILES ASSISTANT DESIGNER 212-880-0414 A Contemporary Private Label Co. is Leading Better Separates Co. looking for E-mail resume to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, seeking candidates to develop a line of A well est’d 55 year old converter of prints on cotton sheeting, polar fleece, organized, motivated, and creative fire- [email protected] handbags, belts & shoes. Min 3-5 yrs cracker willing to do whatever it takes. Search For Space In Garment Center PRODUCTIONS exp. Must be computer literate, be and flannel is seeking a Textile design EOE/M/F/D/V Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee CAD artist. Full time position located in Must have 2 years working with China, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. comfortable interacting w/clients & drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical www.marcjacobs.com www.midcomre.com Call Sherry 212-719-0622. HK office. Be detail oriented, aggressive, Jersey City, NJ. Will work in Photoshop Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 w/developing repeats & color ways. Must packages, EMB layouts. Fax resume to self-motivating & good w/ follow-thru. Natasha @ 212-302-3872 Fax resumes to 509-757-7814 or email know Adobe Photoshop 7 &have a good PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] sense of color. Will need to show samples West 34th Street Offices for Rent of computer generated art. Work in an exc. 4,500 sq. ft and 2,500 sq. ft. PRODUCTIONS environment w/oppty’s for growth. Designer/Associate Full servcie shop to the trade. Admin Since 1967 Please fax resume to 201-659-9719 Major apparel company seeks Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Designer/Associate with minimum 3 www.dumann.com W-I-N-S-T-O-N years experience. Individual should CAD DESIGNER DESIGN ASSISTANT WANTED have strong athletic background and APPAREL STAFFING Leading, fast paced, growing Women’s DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Seeking a Design Assistant to help in be able to work within design Apparel Company seeks a Freelance or room/sample room environment. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION FT Cad Designer with excellent skills in all aspects of the Design process. Must (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Nedgraphics (FashionStudio Version), have a minimum of 2-3 years experience Fax resume 212-239-2766 Photoshop and Illustrator. The candi- & efficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. Email Resume to: [email protected] AMAZING FREELANCE JOBS!!! date should have a minimum of 2 yrs industry experience. Responsibilities Designer TAYLOR HODSON will include cleaning, reducing and Long-term freelance & freelance-to perm Better women’s import manufacturer putting a print in Repeat. Must know DESIGNER $80-140K of woven shirts and sportswear seeks: opportunities available immediately Home Fashion Top Of The Bed Color Reduction, Design Repeats and TECHNICAL DESIGNER Production Managers & Assists Easy Coloring in Nedgraphics. Must be Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Merchandising Assts, Tech Designers [email protected] Experienced in wovens. Must be flexible have a good eye for color. Fax resume and well organized to work with multiple Great Co.’s!!! to: (212) 827-3344 Attn: SG E-mail: [email protected] accounts. Responsibilities include taking fax: (212) 924-9421 CAD Design MGR $100-120K. Current Designer fit notes, working with patternmaker exp. in surface design. Prints & yarn to ensure fit comments are completed, dyes. Follow-up on strike-offs. Supervise Associate Designer creating and updating spec packages, 2. Womenswear or lingerie exp ok. U4ia, Major apparel company seeks Associate working with overseas factories and ASSISTANT BUYER Illustrator, Photoshop. Madison Ave. @ Designer with min. 3 years experience specing samples. Must have at least 5 34th Street. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy in infant/toddler girls. Individual should years experience preferably with the Women’s Clothing Store seeks Assistant be able to work within design room/ KARAT system. Buyer for private label product sample room environment. Must have Please Fax your resume with salary development department. Needs to be knowledge Illustrator and Photoshop. requirements to 212-328-1230 detail oriented, organized and a multi- CAD OPERATOR Fax resume 212-239-2766 tasker who is computer proficient. NJ Girls’ clothing mfr seeks experienced location. Fax resume and salary Cad Operator. Good salary. Fax resume 718-624-8635 Learn the Art of requirements to: 201-866-0387 Designer/Associate Designer Major apparel company seeks designer/ Bridge sportswear co. seeks experienced Wardrobe Consulting associate for girls 7-16 with a minimum designer to create collections. Only "Get Behind Clothes Doors" (a step by of 3 years related experience. Should candidates w/ 10+ years of experience step seminar on how to become a be able to work within design room/ shall apply. Excellent package. wardrobe consultant). Sat, Oct 15th, sample room environment. Please email or fax resume: 9AM - 3PM, Hotel ZAZA, Dallas, TX. Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 E: [email protected] F:212-695-9483 Cost $250.00 (includes a signed copy of the "Keen Eye On Fashion"). To reserve your seat, pls call 214-682-1707. Visit us at: www.thekeenagency.com

S. CA., imptr/mfr. custom trims, 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant embellishments & embroidery products. Beautifully Renovated Sales $2.5M - Owners discretionary 2360 or 2871 sq ft income $570K. Tremendous upside. Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 (949) 263-5940 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005

Kids International Corp. 100 West 33rd Street New York, NY 10001 DUE PER DUE- Graphic Designer CHILDRENSWEAR INDUSTRY LEADER Bridge Collection Senior Graphic Designer Asst./Assoc. position available for a Well Est’d Global Apparel Company HAS IMMEDIATE OPENINGS IN THE FOLLOWING POSITIONS: creative individual with a go getter located in Secaucus, NJ is seeking a attitude. Tremendous growth potential. Graphic Designer that loves to Design. •Sales Executives/Sales Assistants with current access to Design school graduate w/ 1-2 years exp. Someone who is commercial so they Please Fax Resume: can shop & work directly with customers. chains mid-tier accounts Att: Design Director- SC to 212-768-7651 They must have a great sense of trend, color, prints & details. The candidate •Merchandisers - Boys’ & Girls’ Woven/Knits must be organized & is capable of Education working independently. This person •Designers - Boys’ & Girls’ Wovens/Knits should have CAD experience, excellent CHAIR POSITION presentation skills & a very professional •Artists - Boys’ & Girls’ Wovens/Knits Apparel Merch. & Mgmt Dept seeking appearance. In addition, they should •Spec Tech Personnel Chair. Initial review begins 10/15/05, have strong computer skills including will continue until filled. Contact dept Photoshop, Illustrator & U4ia. Hosiery •Quality Control Director @ 909/869-3377. Req’s are avail online at experience a definite plus. The successful www.csupomona.edu/~academic/faculty candidate should have 5 to 6 years of •Quality Control Personnel design experience ! EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT We offer a very competitive salary and •Production Directors & Assistants Fast paced apparel co needs organized benefit package. EOE. Email resume to person to assist President. Communi- [email protected] •Accounts Payable/Receivable Personnel cation and computer skills a must. 2-3 Only qualified applicants with at least 5 years experience & track years experience. Send resume: Jon 212-398-4040 or [email protected] IMPORT PROD’N/ record will be considered. (Former Kids International employees LOGISTICS COORD are welcome to rejoin; All applications/inquiries will be kept strictly FASHION DESIGNER Major Sportswear Importer seeks a (NYC) Analyzing trend, developing highly organized and detailed oriented confidential) Please forward all resumes to Richard at: concept board, novelty stitches, print professional with excellent communica - Box#M 1065 &stripe in CAD. Responsible for em- tion skills to oversee a fast paced, high bellishment layout, SMPL developing energy prod’n dept. Strong production c/o Fairchild Publications and approving S/O & L/D. Developing and logistics background is required. Network Administrator exclusive line for JCP.Negotiate with Min 3-5 yrs. experience. Full benefits! Major apparel company seeks Network Office/Iris 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl., New York, NY 10001 Korean factories. 40 hrs/wk, M-F, BFA Please fax resume to: 212-944-2867 Administrator to manage a multi location Textiles & Clothing Design, 1 yr. exp. network of 250 PCs and Mac users. Printer Coordinator Must be computer literate, fluent in Must know all Microsoft products, Major apparel company seeks Office/ Korean Fax resume: 212-643-2406 Licensing Director check point firewall, Cisco routers/ Iris Printer Coordinator. Responsibilities August Silk Attn: Benedict Chan Great opportunity for the right person! switches, Compaq/HP servers, T1 lines include ordering supplies for office Designer DESIGNERS Established childrenswear wholesaler/ Hi-End Fashion Co. seeks creative * Girls-Moderate-Better Mfr $60-70K and desktop computers. and design department, equipment manufacturer looking for a self motivated, Please fax resume to 212-239-2766. maintenance including Iris printer designer. Min. 4 yrs. exp. in designing *Sleepwear Bet Vertical Retailer $45K experienced person (must have 5-7 collection, w/strong Technical & [email protected] 212-947-3400 Graphic Artist operation and supporting the Purchasing Major apparel company seeks Graphic years in apparel industry) to run the !!!!NEW OPPORTUNITIES!!!! Director. Must have Mac & Iris Printer Organizational skills. licensing division. Must have experi- *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men Fax resume w/ c letter to: 212-398-9695 Designer Artist highly skilled in computer knowledge. Illustrator and bilingual sketching of bodies and experienced in ence in licensing with contacts preferably. *Designer-Assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men skills a plus. Ideal candidate will have SWEATER DESIGNER construction garment detail. Responsi- Fax resume to 212 967 7494 *Designer Associate- JR. Sweaters fashion and administrative background. Designer - Knit/Woven Branded womenswear company seeks bilities include art/emb./print develop- *Designer Girls 4/16 c/s Knits Merchandiser Must be resourceful, customer service Well established better sportswear co designer for new hip sweater division. ment as well as putting together style *Designer Girls 7/16 sprtswr Jr. Driven oriented and be able to communicate seeking a creative and talented knit Must have contemporary taste level. information &details for production Ladies Merchandiser *Designer Girls 7/16 Surf Line effectively with different personalities. and woven designer to work on a new Min 2 yrs import exp. & be able to handle packs. Knowledge of Adobe Illustrator *Designer Girls Tween 7/16 Denim Major apparel company seeks Merchan- *Exec.-Personal Assist to President $HI Please Fax resume to 212-239-2766 and exciting division. Must be able to sweater develop. from design to produc- and Photoshop required. diser with ladies/missys exp. Must be develop collection based on current tion. Must be technically knowledgable Please Fax resume to 212-239-2766 *Production Assistants and Coordinators able to identify and forecast trends as *Production coords - bilingual chinese fashion trends and consumer needs. in yarn qualities and knitting stitches. well as have mass merchant exp. Min 5 Min 3-5 years experience designer, Please Fax resume and examples of your *Technical Design & Assists & Entry level years related experience. *Technical Designers & Assists Childrens technical, and import experience is a best contemporary/ designer sketches to Please fax resume to 212-202-7897 plus. We offer a competitive salary and 212-302-3318. Resume will not be con- Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Patternmaker Assistant collaborative work environment. Room sidered without sketches. High-end Women’s Apparel Co. seeks a for growth. Please email resume to: Office Asst/Clerical F/T Assistant Patternmaker with at [email protected] least 2 years experience. Must know Midtown NYC Import Co. seeks draping and tailored garments. Sample person to assist with phones, e-mails, development through production. DESIGNERS $40-50K ordrng suppl., smple shpments, asst Great growth, benefits, and working Childrens Importer Seeks 2 Dsgnrs. Exp processing factory PO’s. Must be detail environment. Fax resume and salary In Childrens Mkt. Photoshop/Ilust a Must. and computer savvy. Good Co benefits. requirements to: (212)760-0156 [email protected] Fax Resume to: (212) 244-1674 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2005 19

Redcats USA, formerly Brylane, is "America’s Specialty Catalog Leader". Copywriter European Contemporary/ Responsible for product copy Jr. Company for both the catalog and website. Seeking (1) ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Proficient in Quark. Prior catalog for New York Office w/ min. exp a plus. Job number NY1334. Timeless Fashion! 2 yrs exp. (2) Sales Rep’s for following Overstock Sales At Brighton we partner with independent specialty retailers. Specialist territories: Dallas, Atlanta, Our customers include women’s and men’s apparel stores LA, Chicago. Responsible for selling overstock and accessory boutiques. inventory & developing new COME SEE US AT MAGIC accounts. Prior exp in the off-price We are recruiting for the following positions: BOOTH # 12822JR marketplace . Job number NY1375. Accessory Sales Representative -MustresideonLong Island Email resumes to: Asst Sourcing Mgr in Nassau or Suffolk County. [email protected] 2yrs in home textiles import Regional Sales Manager-Denver, CO (see job description sourcing exp. req’d. Job number at brighton.com) Will manage team of 12 sales people NY1365. As a Brighton Sales Representative you will: Dockers/Levi’s Interested candidates should Sales Coordinator apply on-line: -Merchandise, take inventory and write orders Assist President of Sales & www.redcatsusa.com -Conduct promotions, events and product seminars Merchandising for Dockers -Analyze trends and develop business plans & Levi’s Outerwear Division. -Provide excellent customer service Minimum 2yrs experience SPEC TECH Qualifications: of National chain & Dept Fast paced womenswear manufacturer -Outside sales, retail management or buying experience in Stores. Excellent organizational seeks spec tech person to spec dresses & computer skills (Excel & and sportwear items for private label the fashion or gift industry accounts. Must have minimum 1 year -Computer skills Word a Must) Strong experience in import experience and -Analytical skills for business planning knowledge of retail analysis. must have technical knowledge of gar- Fax resume to HR: ment construction and measurements. From casually chic to elegant, we’ve been making leather Computer proficiency required. (212) 575-4717 Fax resume to 212-302-3318 handbags, wallets, belts, jewelry, watches, and gift accessories for over 30 yrs! Send resume to [email protected] Visit our website at www.brighton.com Spec Technician Est’d importer seeks detail oriented spec tech resp for creating first specs & draw garments in Illustrator for Mac. INDEPENDENT REGIONALLY Good w/proportions & able to generate RETAIL SALES missy, plus size and girls specs. Knowl- BASED SALES REPS Soho Designer Fashion Store seeks edge of garment construction req’d. motivated & dynamic Retail Sales Send resume attn Becky: 212-971-0018 Staff - F/T or P/T. MANY TERRITORIES AVAILABLE! Fax resume to: 212-398-9695 Hot Streetwear Company seeks motivated and aggressive WESTCHESTER BOUTIQUE Sweater Designers $45-85K sales reps with industry experience and a proven track record Est. & Rapidly growing missy/jr/tween Hip Junior & Tween boutique in North- co needs assoc + level SWEATER designers to manage & grow existing regional business. Email resumes: ern Westchester seeks experienced F/T w/ strong tech & ILLUSTRATOR skills. Manager & Sales Associate. Good salary E-mail: [email protected] [email protected], Refer to job: #525RD &strong growth potential for right can- KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS didates. Fax to Freddie: 212-239-9786 Lingerie Sales Consultant French Lingerie Company looking for Sweater Prodn Mgr $60-75K Key Account Execs aSales Consultant in the NYC Area. Pic/Pac, Lab Dips, Costing Young Men’s / JR’s Must love lingerie, have experience [email protected] 212-947-3400 conducting seminars, good communi- Hot Streetwear Co. seeks cation skills, & committed to customer energetic "go-getters" with service. Please fax Resume to: 212 689-4953 Pre-Production Coordinator Sales Assistant TECH DESIGNER ASST strong industy contacts and Rapidly growing sportswear company Needed to join fast paced import team. Est’d. Women’s Dress Co. seeks an organ- an understanding of street- Sales-Lynn Ritchie seeks motivated Sales Asst. Candidate Weare looking for recent graduate wear retailers including ized, motivated individual to act as a must be a team player & detail oriented with sweater knowledge or person 1-2 "With it items” Sportswear Co. seeks liaison between, design, and production. with excellent communication &follow yrs sweater exp. Candidate must have national/regional department motivated showroom sales associate to Anoname Jeans Candidate must have knowledge of up skills. Excellent growth opportunity! excellent Excel skills and handle multi stores and specialty chains. work closely with Dir. of Sales in grow- production & garment construction, and Pls fax resume: or E-mail: tasking to the fullest. Exp. in Product ing & managing the business. Min 3 yr Independent Reps be proficient in Excel. Will follow cutting 212-840-5809 An exciting opportunity! [email protected] Packs/Initial Specs and communica- exp. MS Word, Excel, Outlook. Fax: All Territories tickets from inception through production, tion with overseas factories. Email resumes to: 212-768-7773 [email protected] and be responsible for coordinating Fax resume attn: Roger 212-768-7856 garment costing, lab dip & trim approvals SAMPLEMAKER [email protected] Better junior denim line Evening Dress; Couture; Bridal. Excellent Sales Manager & Reps with import production office. Please Refer to job: # 1707SR Large umbrella company with three seeks aggressive road reps Fax resume to: 212-575-2405 Sewing skills required. Fax: 212-629-3004 Email: [email protected] brands looking for experienced Sales with active boutique & Technical Designer Manager and Independent Sales Reps. Prod’n Coords (2) To $55K+ Importer seeks skilled applicant with Multiple territories are available across specialty store contacts. SENIOR DESIGNER $125K exp. in spec development, garment Account Executive the US. Exp w/ department, specialty, BI-LINGUAL CHINESE A MUST! RUNWAY COLLECTION Must be able to generate [email protected] construction& fitting samples. Must Established better dress and social chain and boutique stores a must. Contemp Sprtswr, Intricate Detailing have good communication skills company seeking aggressive, energetic E-mail resume to: [email protected] new business. [email protected] 212-947-3400 to work with overseas factories. account executive with min. 2 years PRODUCTION Computer skills a must. experience. Work w/ major & specialty Sales Please fax 212-768-0406 COORDINATOR Senior Sweater Buyer Please fax resume to (212) 921-1987 stores. Must be willing to travel. Prestigious designer label seeks energetic or call 212-768-0405 Must be able to start IMMDTLY! All replies kept confidential. sales pro with strong store contacts. Min. Ladies dress designer/importer on 7th C.J. Banks, a rapidly growing division E-mail: [email protected] 5 years exp. Excellent comp and growth Ave seeks a detailed-oriented individual of Christopher & Banks Corporation, opportunity. Please email or fax resume: Technical Designer E: [email protected] F:212-695-9483 Chinese Laundry Cosmetic Bags and with 5+ years experience. Assist from has a position available for a Etc. Contemporary Legwear Group seeks design development to full-scale Senior Sweater Buyer. Knitwear exp’d. Independent Sales Representation. production, communicating daily with SANTACROCE - HERION Must have current following in mass mar- This position, reporting directly to the Updated womans sweater Co. seeks overseas vendors. Must be computer technical designer to handle all aspects Showroom representing a collection part ket, mid-tier, Dept. and Specialty Stores. literate, proficient in Excel. E-mail VP; General Merchandiser Manager, of Prada group, offer immediate position E-mail resume:[email protected] requires a seasoned professional with of technical design. Spec corrections, resume and salary requirements to: fittings, graded prod. Specs, communi- starting Sept. 6 Salary & incentives plus [email protected] 5-7 years of buying experience in the bonus. 3 yrs. exp. in selling collections sweater category, with large-size expe- cate with factories. 5 year technical sweater/knitwear experience required. min. Pls. email resume & current salary Cirafashion North America rience strongly preferred. Overseas [email protected] U.S. SALES REPS WANTED for new line Production Coordinator experience in sourcing, product devel- Must have excellent organization & out of China. Graduated commission, Seeking a Production Coord & Order opment and private label marketing communication skills. Great work envi- Annual bonus based on team perform- Processor in Ladies Sportswear for will create synergy with our team of ronment. Pls fax resume 212-221-8556 Sr. Account Exec. ance, Experience preferred. garment importer. Must be computer Well est’d women’s sweater co. seeks Interview at Magic Booth #JR13527 enthusiastic and talented merchandising Incredible growth opportunity for literate, team player & exp’d in Imports professionals. exp’d person w/ strong dept. & chain or Call Errol 954.881.6334 - Nice Boss from India, Bangladesh, China & enthusiastic, personable and highly store relationships in both branded & Indonesia. Fax resume: 212-398-2562. Website Manager motivated candidates to join our New private label areas. Candidate must Work in one of the best quality of life York Showroom Sales team: metropolitan areas in the country with be self motivated & possess a proven dynamic SALES pro vibrant arts, theater and social scenes, Me&Ro record of consistent sales growth. Women’s contemporary brand hiring Account Executive experienced sales person w/ strong Production Manager yet easy access to the pristine lakes, High-profile jewelry company seeks Knowledge of better contemporary Please send resume to: Box # 1063 Seeking individual w/strong operational woodlands and park systems of the motivated individual to run its website, 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor dept store relationships. Contacts boutique distribution in the U.S. Self overseas welcomed. Currently sold in &mfg. skills. Must have min. 5 years exp. beautiful Minneapolis area. meandrojewelry.com. Responsibilities starter w/ min 2 yrs exp. Travel req’d. New York, NY 10001 w/costume jewelry, strong leadership include merchandising, sales analysis 130+ boutiques across US, Europe & skills to oversea small staff, be computer Here’s your opportunity to join a dy- and customer service. Ideal candidate Assist to Sales Director YEOHLEE Bloomingdale’s, Anthropologie. 12-15% literate & have great communication skills namic, growth oriented organization will be detail oriented with excellent Detailed oriented & organized. Profi- commission + incentives. to work with overseas factories. Position and contribute to the ongoing success oral and written communication skills cient w/ Word & Excel. Assist w/ dept ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE E-mail: [email protected] Designer market, 2-3 years experience. based in NYC. Fax resume: 973-379-7581 and expansion of one of the nation’s and have exp. w/ Excel. Prior exp. in stores, int’l accts, & special projects. Established Manufacturer/Importer most financially secure retailers. retail website management a must. Looking for creative individual, must Kindly e-mail resume/salary require- travel. Please fax resume with cover seeks well-connected individual with Fax or email resumes to 212-431-8650, ments to: [email protected] own N.Y. showroom to carry Sleepwear, PRODUCTION OPENINGS A very competitive base wage, generous Attn: HR or [email protected] letter to: 212-244-6598 APPAREL STAFFING, LTD Loungewear, Beach cover-ups in incentive compensation and benefits Contemporary/Missy/Women’s styling. ALAN WOLF package along with full relocation as- A Leader In The Apparel Field Please email Joe Messina: sistance underscores the value of this [email protected] Call (212) 302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 position to our organization. Receptionist/Data Entry Qualified candidates may YASB Required for very upbeat Garment Co. forward their cover letter, Growing West Coast Misses contempo- Must be computer literate. A great credentials and salary history to: rary sportswear & accessories company opportunity! Fax: 212-382-3623 seeks Independent Reps in North East Carlee Bell &Midwest. Call Paul at: (626) 285-1212 Bell Research Group or E-mail: [email protected] SALES ANALYST $60K 775 Winmark Court Visit us @ WWD/MAGIC Booth#WS17639 SQL, ASSISTANT BUYER OK Roswell, GA 30076 [email protected] (678) 795-0012 Sales Assistant [email protected] Growing girls’ division seeks sales asst w/1-2 years experience in assisting Christopher & Banks is an showroom sales. Must know QRS/EDI. Equal Opportunity Employer Strong communication, organizational Sewing Supv-Mass Location and computer skills are required. Garment Construction/Operator Training Excellent growth opportunity. Salary [email protected] based on exp. Fax resume to: 800-544-5878 Ext. 127 (646) 827-9021 WWDEXECTECH Take a byte out of your competition.

Surround your brand with cutting-edge information and statistics on the latest technology that increases productivity, efficiency and profitability for the fashion, retail and beauty industries. Reach the WWD style: ceo’s, cio’s and merchandising executives who are changing the future of retail today.

Inside the October issue: A focus on small to midsize business, IT pitfalls to avoid, everything about e-retailing and more….

Bonus distribution: RILA Tech Show Issue Date: October 12 Close: September 26

For more information on advertising, please contact Tia Potter,associate publisher, technology,at 212-630-4844, or your WWD sales representative.