somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe Ko Lipe
large inland area is now the focus of constant construction.
We saw piles of trash, including plastics, being burned near construction sites, and tidal garbage is common on the beaches. A ludicrously high number of motorbike taxis clog up sealed roads that were sandy paths not too long ago. Often driven recklessly, the countless longtail boats can be a hazard to snorkellers. All over the island, shrugs from long-time residents seemed to say: ?There's nothing we can do... In the early 1990s, whispers of an unspoilt island far out in Thailand's Andaman Sea Despite all of this, Lipe's natural beauty will began surfacing among backpackers. With still leave you breathless. The tepid water dazzling white-sand beaches touched by strikes a dreamy shade of aquamarine on crystal-clear water that sheltered vibrant sunny days, and underwater visibility is marine life, Ko Lipe was everything it was incredibly clear ? even if many of the tropical cracked up to be. Though it remains fish have been scared away by the boat tremendously beautiful today, mass tourism engines. Lipe's many scuba operations will is pushing Lipe in a worrisome direction. whisk you to any of two-dozen magnificent dive sites located nearby. Those who appreciate their luxuries and want to avoid the bigger resort islands will probably find everything they desire on Lipe (pronounced lee-pay). But on such a small and remote island, huge popularity comes at the price of environmental degradation, gouged prices, hasty development and increasingly greedy and careless people ? both Thais and foreigners. If you haven't been here for years, be prepared for a shock. The Lipe experience can be a mixed one. The pace of development quickened around 2010 and by '15 there were over 100 resorts Still almost completely covered in untouched on Lipe. Multi-storey luxury villas now stand jungle and officially protected as part of over Sunrise Beach. The massive Sita Resort Tarutao National Marine Park, the Adang has built straight across the island. In just archipelago's other 22 islands beckon nature two years, Sunset Beach attracted a dozen lovers who might be put off by Lipe. The new resorts. Once blanketed in jungle, a tranquil beaches, waterfalls and snorkelling
1/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe sites of Ko Adang, Ko Rawi and Ko Hin Ngam, (we think not), some would argue that the among others, can be reached by a leisurely many new and expanded resorts are simply longtail or challenging kayak ride from Lipe. the result of supply and demand.
After being settled by Muslim fishermen and Virtually every room on the island was full Urak Lawoi sea gypsies around the turn of during the busiest times of the 2013 ? '14 the 20th century, a Thai businessman season, forcing some who arrived without purchased a chunk of Lipe in the 1970s. reservations to sleep in tents or on the Descendants of the original inhabitants have beaches. It's easy for Westerners to take the grappled with government and big-business moral high ground and condemn the forces over land ownership rights for development, but this is a Thai island near some time. New barbed-wire fences are the Malaysia border, and the Thais and perhaps the first signs of future development Malays have every right to enjoy it. on Lipe's pristine western peninsula, though it remains unclear who might profit from it.
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Lipe's nightlife is lively enough to enjoy a few drinks and fire-spinning shows without the seedy bars or blasting dance parties found on parts of Phuket and Ko Phi Phi. Weekends are now considerably busier thanks to short- term visitors from the mainland, but outside of peak times, the island reverts back to its old, laid-back self on weekdays. Attracting entrepreneurs from around the world, the food scene is exceptional.
While luxury travellers and flashpackers have plenty of accommodation options to choose Gorgeous in places. from, backpackers will find things more challenging. It's difficult to score a fan room One driving force behind Lipe's development with private bath for below 800 baht a night frenzy is a recent influx in Thai and Malay in high season, though a couple of newer tourists who have caught wind of the places offer bunks, tents and huts with island's beauty ? and increasingly have the shared bathrooms for 500 baht or less. disposable income to get there. Whether this Travellers seeking better value might spike in overall visitors is sustainable or not consider more budget-friendly islands like Ko
2/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe Bulon Lae, Ko Muk, Ko Lanta or Ko Jum. About this guide
This Travelfish.org guide was researched in person, on the ground, by a Travelfish writer. Travelfish.org always pays its way. No exceptions. Any links in this PDF are to external websites, so you will need to have internet access for the links to maps and other external websites (including Travelfish) to work. If you're accessing this on a tablet or iPhone, Strike a pose. please note that the links do not work in Kindle Reader for Android and iPhone - they Around the Western and Chinese New Year do work in other PDF readers though, such holidays, rates at most resorts jump as iBooks. through the roof and both are times when We've made the text quite large to make we'd skip Lipe altogether. Advanced the PDF easier to read on portable devices, reservations are recommended any time so if you're planning on printing this off, from mid-December through February. Prices are lower and crowds thinner in November, please consider printing two pages per page March and April, which we feel are the best (most printers allow this) to save paper -- times to visit. Rates drop by up to 50% who wants to lug around a ream of A4 paper during the May to October rainy season, in their backpack? when some resorts close completely. This PDF may includes links to Agoda or other Online Travel Agents. If you click on To enjoy Lipe while leaving a minimal one of these links and subsequently make a environmental footprint, you might stay at an reservation, we may earn a commission off eco-friendly resort like Castaway, of that booking. Serendipity, Green View or The Box; take Please feel free to pass this PDF onto advantage of the water-refilling stations at other travellers who you feel may benefit Castaway and Pooh's; use your feet rather from it. than motorbike taxis to get around; and Got an idea on how to improve this guide? refrain from the increasingly popular fishing See something that is incorrect or out of tours (fishing is technically illegal in the date? Please let us know by posting on the national park). You might also join the Trash Travelfish forum. Heroes at the Pattaya Beach entrance to Walking Street on Monday mornings at 10:00 Like the guide? Please spread the word! to help pick up garbage on Lipe and the Good travels surrounding islands. Sam and Stuart
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Orientation haphazard marina. Located 67 km from mainland Satun province The eastern stretch of Pattaya Beach is in the far southwest of Thailand, Ko Lipe is where you'll find much of the best nightlife only 60 km north of Langkawi in Malaysia, on Lipe, while the sand west of Walking with direct boats connecting the two islands Street's entrance has retained a quiet during high season. Lipe is the fourth largest atmosphere. A cluster of budget resorts are island in the Adang archipelago, but it's by located right at the centre of the beach, and no means big. The smallest of Thailand's things get more upmarket as you head west super-popular islands, it takes only a few (though there are exceptions). The lavish hours to circle Lipe by kayak. Akira Resort, new as of 2014, proved to be a blessing for Pattaya Beach thanks to its well- With a long and still largely undeveloped connected owner who was able to get the peninsula stretching to the west, Ko Lipe's trash barge to stop docking here. three main beaches are found on each side of a rough triangle that forms the island's Facing east towards Ko Tarutao and bending widest point to the east. Sealed roads towards nearby Ko Adang at its northern connect all of the beaches and it takes only point, Sunrise Beach is the longest on Lipe. 10 to 15 minutes to walk from one to the Though also very beautiful, the sand is next. grainier and sea choppier during high season. The atmosphere is quiet after dark, The highest density of restaurants, with only a few low-key beach bars attached convenience stores, travel offices and to resorts. A central stretch of Sunrise Beach massage shops are clustered on and around became more crowded when the old Tarutao Walking Street, a colourful 600-metre-long Cabana Resort was sold off in portions, strip connecting Sunrise and Pattaya resulting in a few new small resorts, but the beaches. Another road runs north to south overall layout is still more spread out than at behind Sunrise Beach and links to a network Pattaya Beach. While Gipsy Resort and Varin of roads shooting northwest to Sunset Beach Village still offer bungalows for below 1,000 or looping back to Pattaya Beach. baht, Sunrise Beach had tilted heavily upmarket since our last visit. The road that cuts behind Sunset Beach continues to the far western end of the The northern stretch of Sunrise Beach that island, where it eventually turns to sand and fronts the Urak Lawoi village has gotten runs into dense jungle. Roads running uphill increasingly filthy, and the smelly trash behind Pattaya Song and Z-Touch resorts on barge was parking here at time of writing. Pattaya Beach's western side connect up to Sunrise Beach also sees considerable longtail the road behind Sunset Beach. boat traffic, and in late 2014, there was talk of a pier being built somewhere off the Sheltered by rocky outcrops on either side, northern stretch. Other barges were south-facing Pattaya Beach was the first to unloading cranes, backhoes and cement host resorts on Lipe. It's still arguably the trucks on the sand in front of the village. most picturesque, with the finest sand and calmest water. Fairly wide stretches of sea in Lipe's northern coast is where you'll find the front of Sita and Mali resorts are usually free smaller Sunset Beach along with a cove of of longtail boat traffic, but the water off sand and rocks to the immediate east that much of Pattaya Beach can feel like a hosts an array of newly built small resorts
4/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe along with a Thai princess' summer cottage. Centre next to Pooh's towards the eastern Sunset was undergoing drastic changes end of Walking Street, and the Siam during our most recent visit, with the old International Clinic located closer to backpacker favourite Porn Resort having Pattaya Beach on central Walking Street. been levelled to clear the way for a planned Both will provide Western-standard care and luxury resort. Some interesting places to stay speedboat shuttles in case of serious in the flashpacker to upscale categories have emergency. Both are also very expensive; moved into the far southwestern corner of the old community clinic in the village near Sunset beach and the eastern cove. There's Sunrise Beach is still a fine and much also a couple of bungalow joints keeping cheaper option for minor injuries. things laid back on their tiny and remote beaches further west. If you require police assistance, a tourist police office is now located within Pooh's restaurant/bar on Walking Street. Lipe's inland area is being heavily developed, with a string of uninspiring concrete "resorts" There are now three ATMs on the island, now open directly across from the main all run by Krungsri Bank and accepting most dump and power station. Why anyone would cards with the Visa and Mastercard seals. pay 1,500 baht or more for a room here is The first is located at the new 7-eleven on beyond us; most likely these places will be Walking Street; the second across from forced to lower their prices once a bunch of Pooh's further east on Walking Street; and negative reviews appear due to the not-so- the third attached to Harmony Bed & Bakery inviting location. However, if you head on the side road that runs behind Sunrise further west just past the island's forest Beach. Several travel offices offer foreign temple, or north towards Sunset Beach, currency exchange at high rates. some interesting low-budget to flashpacker spots are worth considering if you fancy a A couple of internet cafes are located on room in the forest. Walking Street, and WiFi is available at most resorts and many bars and eateries, though Lipe is now home to two international it's usually quite slow. Cell phones with SIM medical facilities: the Bangkok Hospital cards from all major Thai providers work well affiliated Southern Andaman Medical throughout the island.
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Map of greater Ko Lipe
The above map is intended to give you the general lay of the land. Many individual listings in this guide each have their own map showing you where they are. Open this map in Apple or Google maps
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WHERE TO STAY ON KO LIPE? Plenty of choice Under 600B (Backpacker )
Ko Lipe‘s ever-increasing popularity was evidenced by roughly 100 places to stay in 2015 — up from under 50 just five years earlier and a mere five back in the 1990s. The general trend is to build bigger, higher, more expensive, though a select few have preserved the low- key vibe. Not a budget-friendly destination by Southeast Asian standards, Lipe is worth the splurge.
Which beach?Unlike on larger islands where several kilometres might separate one beach from the next, location is less of an issue on Lipe. The small size makes it easy to walk from one place to another. Keep extremes in mind — like eastern Pattaya Beach for nightlife and the northwestern coves for seclusion — while choosing mainly on the merits of accommodation quality rather than location. Even inland options are no more than a five-minute stroll from one (or more) of the beaches.
Under 500 bahtOptions for under 500 baht in high season can be counted on one hand. Our first choice is Art Garden, a laid-back artist-run spot set amid towering trees next to the island’s forest temple. You’ll find rudimentary bamboo huts and tents ranging from 200 to 400 baht and providing little more than a roof and the use of a shared bathroom. Neighbouring Koh Lipe Camping has similarly spartan huts to go with more of a reggae theme. The other option is an air-con dorm at Koh Lipe Backpackers Hostel.
500 to 1,000 bahtAn extra 200 to 300 baht opens the possibility of a bungalow just off the sand. Gipsy Resort leads the pack with its bamboo and concrete bungalows equipped with silk blankets and hammocks in addition to tables and chairs on the patios. The Spanish and Urak Lawoi owners are some of the best hosts we’ve come across on any Thai island. For a bit cheaper, Cafe Lipe and Moonlight are the best among a cluster of bungalows on central Pattaya beach. If you don’t mind a hard bed in a bare-bones cottage, the Fisheries Department offers good value on Sunset beach.
1,000 to 2,000 bahtThe majority of Lipe accommodation falls into this bracket — and it’s worth shopping around. Wapi Resort is the best-value option for a clean and comfy air-con room that puts you mere steps from Sunrise beach. The French owners added new sea-view villas while sprucing up some older rooms. If you’re after seclusion, Bila Beach and Sanom Beach both have solid fan bungalows on their own private beaches. Many others, including Lipe Beach and Greenview, rent out simple fan rooms for a lot more than you’ll pay on many islands.
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2,000 to 3,000 bahtYou might expect air-con to dominate the midrange bracket, but our top picks get it done with fans, good service, stylish rooms and environmental outlooks. On Sunrise beach, Castaway Resort sets a high bar with its breezy two-storey wood villas and well-thought-out facilities that include a great restaurant, spa, yoga and scuba diving. Smaller, newer and more easily overlooked, Time to Chill House has five intriguing rooms with vast porches overlooking the quiet forest near Sunset beach.
Over 3,000 bahtSawan Resort is doing something special on its hillside over Sunset beach. Made entirely of natural materials and with attached decks overlooking Ko Adang, the five rooms strike a balance between luxurious and simple, and the unpretentious staff know how to let their guests relax. If Sawan is out of your price range (rooms start at 7,200 baht in high season), Mali Resort also has a good thing going with its dark-wood villas draped in orchids and palms for around 4,000 baht a night on Pattaya beach.
Room rates Pattaya Beach Back in 2013, Pattaya Beach was down and out thanks to a trash barge and loads of other boat traffic docking here. By late 2014, the barge had moved to northern Sunrise Beach, and Pattaya Beach was looking better than it has for years. Throw in Lipe's only hostel to go with a decent selection of bungalows for below 1,000 baht in high season, and it looks even better for budget travellers. If the cheap places listed here are full when you arrive, you could try your luck with the beach bars on the eastern side of the beach, some of which offer a room or two out the back for between 500 and 1,000 baht. Just keep in mind that this side of the beach turns into a live music venue on most nights until 01:00.
MALI RESORT Classy Balinese-inspired villas Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (091) 979 4600 http://www.maliresortkohlipe.com 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) Our favourite of the higher-end resorts that keep things quiet and clean towards the west end of Pattaya Beach, Mali features a handful of gorgeous dark-wood Balinese-style villas set around a lawn filled with palms and orchids. The cheapest rooms are actually concrete bungalows that (we think) were once part of the now-defunct Leapae Beach Resort. While lacking the elegance of the larger and newer wood villas, they're equipped with the same luxurious beds, hardwood floors, LCD TVs, DVD players, safes and air-con. If possible, we recommend shelling out for one of the spacious wooden villas with glossy wood floors, sliding wood-and-glass doors, tasteful Buddhist-inspired art, antique furnishings, vaulted thatch ceilings, wide wooden decks and open-air garden bathrooms with twin basin sinks and rain showerheads so that you never have to leave your lover's side. While there's no swimming pool, Mali offers massage and a restaurant/bar that's happy to deliver straight to your villa. At time of writing, the owners were building a second set of wood villas over in the Sunset Beach neighbourhood. If you're after something even
8/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe more luxurious, five-star Akira Resort is just up the beach. Otherwise, the much larger Bundhaya and Sita resorts both have stacks of rooms and swimming pools for around the same prices as Mali, though the service at either of these will be far less personable and the rooms rather bland.
Room rates Standard - Double: 2,300 baht (low season) 4,000 baht (high season) - 4,300 in peak season. Superior - Double: 2,800 baht (low season) 5,000 baht (high season) - 6,800 in peak season. Deluxe- Double: 3,500 baht (low season) 6,000 baht (high season) - 7,300 in peak season; up to 8,500 for beachfront.
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CAFE LIPE AND RESORT Mellow bungalows behind the cafe Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (086) 969 9472 http://www.cafe-lipe.com Under 600B (Backpacker ) Best known for its fantastic restaurant perched over a central slice of Pattaya Beach, Cafe Lipe rents out a handful of bamboo bungalows with thatch roofs in a cool, shaded area behind the cafe. The bungalows are simple but more spacious than most, with bamboo floors, foam beds on chunky bamboo platforms, mosquito nets, soft lanterns and attached porches with Thai axe pillows and grass mats. Along with considerable airflow, the fans and shade from flowering trees should keep you relatively cool even in the hot season. The attached cold-water bathrooms have bucket-flush toilets to go with tiny sinks and cold-water showers. The adjacent Swiss/Thai run cafe does great sandwiches and Thai food along with fresh coffee, several teas and fruit shakes. This is an entrancingly mellow spot that tends to pull travellers in for longer than expected, which is a good thing considering there's a three-night minimum stay. Given the laid-back attitude that pervades the place, we'd expect this to be negotiable depending on time of year and how many rooms are available. If Cafe Lipe is full, neighbouring Moonlight, Seaside and Green View are all solid alternatives.
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Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 600 baht (low season) 800 baht (high season)
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Z-TOUCH LIPE ISLAND RESORT Decent midrange option Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (086) 292 8204 [email protected] http://www.ztouchresort.com Check rates with Agoda 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) While Z-Touch won't knock your socks off, it's worth keeping in mind as a comfortable option at the centre of Pattaya Beach. The standalone white concrete villas with wood and thatch trim stretch back behind a small swimming pool that was being enjoyed by a group of 20 Thais when we passed through. The room we checked out was spacious and simply decorated with a huge fake orchid to contrast the white floors and walls, a soft queen-size bed and several large windows that kept it bright. All rooms are equipped with TVs, desks, teakettles, terraces and modern hot-water bathrooms with shower curtains, and all but the cheapest come with mini-fridges and safes. Rates mainly depend on proximity to the beach, and for no discernible reason, we were offered a villa just back from the beach (we think it was a "garden cottage A") for the price of the standard rooms, which are set in a single-floor attached building further back. Rates go up and down frequently throughout the year, and we found that considerable discounts can be scored on Agoda. Even if you can't find a discounted rate, Z-Touch offers better value than competitors like Bundhaya and Bella Vista. At time of writing, they were working on a new set of two-floor concrete villas next to the originals. Expect to pay somewhere between the low and high rates listed here if visiting in November.
Room rates Standard - Double: 1,500 baht (low season) 2,500 baht (high season) - Up to 3,000 for most of Jan/Feb and 4,500 at peak. Superior - Double: 1,800 baht (low season) 3,000 baht (high season) - Up to 4,000 for most of Jan/Feb
10/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe and 6,000 at peak. Deluxe- Double: 2,000 baht (low season) 3,500 baht (high season) - Up to 5,000 for most of Jan/Feb and 7,500 at peak. Family room: 3,200 baht (low season) 5,000 baht (high season) - Up to 6,000 for most of Jan/Feb and 9,000 at peak.
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SANOM BEACH RESORT Secluded beach with great views Pattaya Beach T: (087) 630 7497 [email protected] http://www.sanombeachlipe.com 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker ) Like many formerly cheap bungalow joints on Lipe, the secluded Sanom Beach has taken things up a notch by installing modern flush toilets, high-quality queen beds with mosquito nets and pricier toiletries in its otherwise simple rooms. Given the enviable location on a small, secluded beach with good snorkelling just offshore and sweeping views back to Pattaya Beach from many of the hillside bungalows, we feel that Sanom hasn't quite overstepped its bounds by upping the prices. Each of the free-standing, tin-roofed rooms are a little different from the next, but they're all composed of wood and concrete on stilts that place the attached balconies with hammocks high above the ground. We'd opt for a cheaper bungalow in "the small bay," the resort's name for a rocky and tree-lined hill between Pattaya Beach and Sanom Beach itself. The Urak Lawoi-owned establishment employs some Spanish helpers, and together they offer laid-back and personable service. To get here, it's necessary to traverse a wooden walkway built over an outcrop of rocks that begins at Pattaya Beach's far western end. It looks rickety but seemed sturdy enough, though you'll definitely want a torch after dark. Sanom Beach closes for much of the rainy season.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 500 baht (low season) 1,600 baht (high season) - Add 300/400 baht for the main bay
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MOONLIGHT BUNGALOW A bit cheaper than the neighbours Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (087) 392 2518 [email protected] Under 600B (Backpacker ) A stone's throw west of the Walking Street entrance, Moonlight has a string of simple bamboo bungalows stretching back behind a snorkel shop (the owners also lead daily snorkelling tours by longtail). We received a very friendly greeting before being shown a few bungalows clustered in a line stretching back from the beach, with no sea views. Walls are made of woven bamboo and the wood floors show some cracks between the boards -- you'll want to employ the mosquito nets draped over springy beds raised off the floor. Attached bathrooms surprisingly come with hot-water showers to go with bucket-flush toilets. Trees provide shade for some bungalows, and in some cases the foliage has almost completely covered the tin roofs. Moonlight's bungalows are slightly cheaper than neighbouring Seaside Resort, which has similarly basic huts with cement rather than wood floors, also situated around 30 metres back from the beach. Moonlight offers no other services apart from the snorkel shop, but you'll find plenty of food, drinks and massages within a short walk in either direction. We were told that the rate might jump slightly in peak season.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 500 baht (low season) 800 baht (high season)
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KOH LIPE BACKPACKERS HOSTEL Air-con for cheap Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (090) 324 1248 [email protected] http://www.kohlipebackpackers.com Under 600B (Backpacker ) An offshoot of the Davy Jones Locker dive operation on the quiet western end of Pattaya Beach, Koh Lipe Backpackers is the first of what we suspect will be more hostels in Lipe's future. Two eight-bed mixed dorms are located on the ground floor of a newish concrete building. They're simple but cool and comfy, with polished concrete floors, plain white walls, a couple of windows and thick mattresses on steel frames spaced far enough apart that you won't feel like you're in the same bed as your neighbour. Lights, electrical outlets, air-con and hot-water bathrooms are all shared, but you do get your own private locker. Spacious private rooms are located on the second floor and outfitted with LCD TVs, fans in addition to air-con, double beds, small tables and ensuite hot-water bathrooms. The priciest boast large glass doors overlooking the sea. While indeed comfy, you'll find bigger air-con villas with mini-fridges over at Z-Touch Resort, which also has a swimming pool, for less money. Dorm beds are offered for free if you're diving with Davy Jones Locker.
Room rates Dorm air-con: 300 baht (low season) 400 baht (high season) - 500 baht in peak season Standard - Double: 2,500 baht (low season) 3,500 baht (high season) - 4,000 in peak season Superior - Double: 3,000 baht (low season) 4,000 baht (high season) - 5,000 in peak season
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GREENVIEW RESORT Eco-friendly budget resort Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (084) 521 7969 [email protected] http://www.greenviewkohlipe.com Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker ) We didn't have high hopes for Green View's future a couple of years ago, but we're happy to say that it survived two nightmarish seasons of dealing with a big, smelly trash barge parked right in front of its bungalows. The scenery here was notably beautiful and well kept at time of writing. The small resort's name is fitting for two reasons. First, the large bamboo and thatch roof bungalows are set in a grove of bountiful palms and flowers. Second, the resort's eco-friendly practices include responsible wastewater management, proper trash and recycling methods, and purified running water in the bathrooms. The spacious fan bungalows come with a few extras like safes, king-size beds, soft lanterns, desks and hot water in the pricier rooms. Otherwise they're straightforward beach bungalow material. Each comes with a large porch with Thai-style floor cushions, and a few hammocks are scattered around the atmospheric grounds set just back from central Pattaya Beach. On our most recent visit, the eccentric Italian owner had just installed what he claimed to be "very fast" WiFi, which would be a big selling point on Lipe if it's true. Expect to pay substantially less than the rates listed here in November or April. Closed for low season.
Room rates Family room: n/a (low season) 2,200 baht (high season) Bungalow fan private b'room: n/a (low season) 1,500 baht (high season) - Peak 1,800 baht
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DAYA RESORT Cheap and quiet Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (081) 542 9866 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker ) Just beyond a string of luxury resorts at Pattaya Beach's far western end, Daya Resort's ageing concrete and wood bungalows are some of the cheapest on Lipe. Painted in an array of bright colours like bubble gum pink, sky blue and lime green, the rooms have mosquito nets draped over worn beds on floors with visible strips of duct tape apparently holding together some of the tiles. This is no five-star resort, but the rooms do possess a certain cheerfulness thanks to a couple of windows, kids' cartoon stickers and porches with a couple of plastic chairs. All rooms come with wall-mounted fans and private cold-water bathrooms with bucket-flush toilets and small sinks. The cheapest are set in an attached longhouse towards the back of the leafy property, while the largest and most expensive are perched on a hill with sea views. The beachfront bungalows are mere steps from the sea and are among the cheapest on the island with such a coveted location. A string of identical bungalows are stacked just behind the beach, facing inland, and aren't bad options for saving cash. The native islanders who run the place are a lot more welcoming than the folks at neighbouring Pattaya Song Resort, which has grimier concrete bungalows for slightly cheaper. Rates negotiable in low season.
Room rates Dbl fan private b'room: 600 baht Bungalow fan private b'room: 800 baht Beachfront bungalow: 1,000 baht (low season) 1,500 baht (high season) Superior - Double: 1,500 baht Family room: 2,000 baht
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BLUE TRIBES GARDEN BEACH RESORT Quirky and long-running Pattaya Beach, Ko Lipe T: (080) 546 9464 [email protected] http://www.bluetribeslipe.com Check rates with Agoda 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) Blue Tribes has gradually watched the eastern side of Pattaya Beach fill in on either side, but things haven't changed much at the small resort itself. A giant buffalo skull is still hung over the dark-wood reception and restaurant that fronts the beach. Behind that are the large wood bungalows, each a bit different from the next. Those closest to the beach stand two storeys tall and afford sea views from open-air lofts with cushions, grass mats and hammocks. Slightly further back amid the sandy grounds with some tropical foliage, the single-floor bungalows come with firm queen-size beds and single beds on hardwood floors, making them good options for families. Decorative touches include surreal portraits in bright colours, sea gipsy handicrafts and woven bamboo. Spacious bathrooms are equipped with hot water, flush toilets and a few potted plants. All the way in the back, the cheapest "garden" room was rather musty; we'd suggest going for a cheaper bamboo bungalow at one of the resorts down the beach if Blue Tribes' larger dark-wood bungalows are too expensive. The excellent Italian restaurant, coffee bar and beach cocktail bar were going strong, and a pet monkey is one of several quirky touches. All rooms are fan- cooled and sounds from the nearby bars can be at least faintly heard after dark.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 1,000 baht (low season) 1,400 baht (high season) - 1,700 baht in peak season Superior - Double: 1,300 baht (low season) 1,800 baht (high season) - 2,300 baht in peak season Beachfront bungalow: 1,600 baht (low season) 2,400 baht (high season) - 2,800 baht in peak season
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Sunrise Beach East-facing Sunrise Beach has filled in over recent years and now hosts a number of mostly flashpacker to upscale resorts. You won't find a bungalow below 800 baht a night in high season, with some basic bamboo huts now fetching 1,200 or more. Mountain Resort is a massive place at the far northern end that we'd avoid due to unwelcoming staff and the owner's desire to slap as much concrete as possible on the property. Neighbouring Andaman Resort is even more dismal, which is a shame as it sits on a particularly beautiful spot. At the opposite end of the beach, two yet-to-open upmarket resorts were replacing the old budget- friendly Viewpoint Resort at time of writing. It can get windy on Sunrise Beach during high season.
LIPE BEACH RESORT Great atmosphere, questionable value Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (080) 543 1466 http://www.lipebeachresort.com Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker ) Situated on a slice of northern Sunrise Beach that's grown increasingly crowded of late, Lipe Beach Resort went sharply upmarket since our last visit. Along with many others on Lipe, the resort now charges flashpacker or even midrange rates for the same basic bamboo bungalows that went for under 1,000 baht just a couple of years ago. The old beachfront bamboo bungalows have been replaced by smart wood villas with large windows, huge porches with hammocks, air-con, hot-water bathrooms with rainshowers and king-size beds on tasteful wooden frames with mosquito nets -- these are nearly equal to Anda Resort's beachfront villas for less than half the price. A string of smaller dark wood fan bungalows aren't too shabby either, but we have to question the basic thatch- roof bamboo huts in the back, with no views and bucket-flush toilets, that fetch 1,250 baht a night in high season and even more at peak times. Though the resort feels more cluttered than it used to thanks to the new additions, the same relaxed atmosphere can be expected in the open-air beach lounge and very good Elephant Bar. Expect the same "hipster on holiday"
17/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe scene as before, but now without the backpackers. Service is excellent and the place is very popular, so do plan ahead if wanting to stay here in high season. Add 200 to 1,000 baht (depending on the room) to the below rates from mid-December to mid-February.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 950 baht (low season) 1,250 baht (high season) - Up to 1250/1650 for beachfront. Superior - Double: 1,350 baht (low season) 1,950 baht (high season) Deluxe- Double: 2,050 baht (low season) 3,250 baht (high season)
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CASTAWAY BEACH RESORT Refreshing eco-friendly resort Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (081) 1707 605 [email protected] http://www.castaway-resorts.com Check rates with Agoda 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) Castaway delivers some of the most stylish, comfy and eco-friendly accommodation on Lipe. Most rooms are in two-storey wooden bungalows with large decks and hammocks to go with bathrooms down below, and a wooden staircase connecting floors. At the back of the property, a handful of two-bedroom houses are great for groups and families with grown children, though the open-sided staircases could be hazardous for toddlers. Rooms are outfitted with Hmong blankets draped over queen-size beds, fabric lanterns hung in the corners, chests with padlocks and ceiling fans to accompany the sea breeze that funnels through large windows. Bathrooms come with tasteful decor and rain showerheads, though it's cold water only. All rooms are spaced fairly far apart from one another on either side of the tiny Coco Cottage Resort, and the atmosphere is quiet at any time. Castaway also operates a dive centre and spa, daily yoga and a great restaurant adorned with Asian antiques, axe pillows, hammocks and large wooden tables spread over a series of platforms. Rates may seem pricey for fan and cold-water rooms, but Castaway's staunchly eco-friendly approach sets the standard for other resorts on Lipe. Rates bounce up and down frequently through high season, with rooms surprisingly costing less in early
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January than at any time in February. Reservations are essential outside of low season.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 900 baht (low season) 2,400 baht (high season) - Up to 3,900 in peak season. Add 200 to 500 baht for larger room. Family room: 1,300 baht (low season) 3,100 baht (high season) - Up to 4,100 in peak season. Deluxe bungalow: 1,350 baht (low season) 3,400 baht (high season) - Up to 4,900 in peak season. Add 200 to 500 baht for larger room.
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WAPI RESORT Clean rooms, good service Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (089) 464 5854 http://www.wapiresortkohlipe.com Check rates with Agoda 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) One of the better of Lipe's many newish midrange resorts, Wapi occupies a sizeable chunk of what was once Tarutao Cabana Resort. In addition to building smart new concrete villas with wide glass windows overlooking the beachfront, the new owners completely gutted some of the old cabanas to create modern midrange accommodation for those who like their creature comforts. Outfitted with tile floors, flush white walls, modern furnishings and soft beds, all rooms come with air-con and LCD TVs, and the two pricier categories bag you a mini-fridge and balcony. The rooms are immaculately kept, with bright modern art to contrast the cool, minimalist design. Large bathrooms come with hot water, dark tiling and good-quality appliances. The location is far enough from the village to escape the sight and smell of the trash barges and other boats that dock there. Wapi has a laid-back vibe and friendly staff to go with the cushy rooms that cost about the same -- if not less -- than what you'll pay at many of the inland hotels. Reservations are a good idea.
Room rates Standard - Double: 1,200 baht (low season) 2,500 baht (high season) Superior - Double: 1,500 baht (low season) 3,000 baht (high season) Deluxe- Double: 2,500 baht (low season) 4,000 baht (high season)
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SERENDIPITY BEACH RESORT Tasteful, luxurious, isolated Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (088) 395 5158 F: (02) 129 3850 [email protected] http://www.serendipityresort-kohlipe.com Check rates with Agoda 4,000B to 8,000B (Toprange ) Serendipity's motto, "To find something beautiful by chance," doesn't exactly make sense since this eco-friendly upscale resort's 12 wooden bungalows must be booked in advance. The reception area, restaurant and breezy detached wooden villas are all built over rocks on the hillside at Sunrise Beach's far southern end, lending the place a tree- house feel. Amid the stairways and walkways that connect it all together, semi-private platforms and nooks are outfitted with silk pillows and woven bamboo hammocks with sea views. Each with a ceiling fan and some with air-con, all rooms are thoughtfully decorated and equipped with mini-fridge, safe, coffee-tea facilities, hair dryers and gorgeous bathrooms -- but no TVs. Extras include mosquito repellent and torches, and private plunge pools were installed alongside some rooms for the 2014 - '15 season. While pricey, Serendipity is perfect for a romantic getaway. The secluded beach is rocky and the resort a bit of an effort to reach, but the very helpful staff will do everything in their power to make things easy. At time of writing, a pair of larger resorts was being built next-door and detracting from Serendipity's isolated vibe. If you prefer a larger luxury resort with swimming pool, nearby Idyllic and Anda are also worth considering.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 6,300 baht (low season) 7,800 baht (high season) - Peak 8,900 baht Bungalow air-con private b'room: 7,000 baht (low season) 8,500 baht (high season) - Peak 10,500 baht Deluxe- Double: 8,000 baht (low season) 11,000 baht (high season) - Peak 14,500 baht
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GIPSY BUNGALOWS A top pick Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (083) 194 4223 [email protected] http://gipsyresort.com 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
Slap bang in the middle of Sunrise Beach, Gipsy Resort’s comfy rooms at reasonable rates have drawn us back time and again. The Spanish and Urak Lawoi (sea gypsy) managers do an excellent job of making guests feel at home while retaining the laidback atmosphere Lipe is known for. They also make a mean espresso and banana shake.
The majority of accommodation comes in two rows of clean concrete bungalows huddled facing one another along a path graced with bulging flower bushes. These get you blue tile floors, one large window, soft foam mattresses on raised platforms, two silk blankets and soft linens, high-quality mosquito nets, wall-mounted fans and/or air-con, clothes-drying racks and fully enclosed bathrooms with flush toilets, sinks and cold-water showers. Private porches are equipped with tables and chairs in addition to hammocks, and a water sprayer for cleaning the sand off your feet out front.
As of the 2014-15 season, Gipsy also offers simple woven bamboo huts for a lower price, though we were told that these will probably be replaced by wood bungalows for 2015-16. We do hope they keep the bamboo and wood bungalows that sit perched on the beachfront and present one of the only sea-view options left on Lipe for under 1,500 baht. Perfect for couples, these bag you large garden bathrooms and great porches.
At time of writing, a sharp two-floor villa had recently been constructed out of wood, cement and tile just back from the beach. They were putting the finishing touches on it during our visit, but we did take a peek and can say that it will be a great option for families once completed. The older concrete family room also comes with air-con and represents
21/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe competitive value for groups. The path that runs between bungalows emerges on to a magnificent stretch of Sunrise Beach; do try to wake up early to see what the place was named for. A beachfront restaurant pumps out entrancing downtempo music to go with consistently good Thai food, sandwiches, pasta and salads. The shakes and “Roma” espresso also get high marks, perhaps accompanied by a coconut roll sold by a woman who sings “Yoohoo, yoohoo!” as she roves the beach. Countless other dining options are found on nearby Walking Street.
Gipsy’s rates fluctuate quite a bit throughout the year, including a sizeable spike around Christmas and Western New Year, and the 10-day Chinese New Year. Depending on the room, rates jump by 100 to 500 baht during peak season, and the resort may close for all or part of the time between June 1 and October 1. The bungalows are often full, so advance reservations are a good idea during high season. If you show up unannounced to find no rooms available, you might head a short walk inland to the under 1,000-baht bungalows at the sister property, Gipsy 2 Resort, which is also very good. Otherwise, you could try the relatively cheap but impersonal and unkempt Varin Village next door, or head down the beach to the slightly pricier (but not better) bungalows at Coco Cottage.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 600 baht (low season) 850 baht (high season) - Bamboo. Add 100/150 baht for concrete. Beachfront bungalow: 1,000 baht (low season) 1,300 baht (high season) - Fan and bamboo. 1500/1800 for concrete. Bungalow air-con private b'room: 1,200 baht (low season) 1,600 baht (high season) Family room: 1,500 baht (low season) 2,000 baht (high season) - 1700/2700 deluxe
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ZANOM SUNRISE BEACH RESORT Moving upmarket Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (089) 656 2767 [email protected] http://www.zanomsunrisebeachresort.myreadyweb.com Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
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Run by a youthful team of Thais known for their attentive service, Zanom Sunrise hadn't changed much since our last visit, at least on the surface. The relaxing beachfront restaurant still has floor cushions and lofts spread amid wooden platforms with high ceilings, and the wooden rooms still stretch behind reception in a mix of attached single-floor buildings and standalone bungalows. All of them still have porches with hammocks and benches, though only a few afford sea views. Inside they're rather dark and sparsely decorated but comfortable, well kept and equipped with TVs, with cold water in the fan rooms and hot in air- con editions. The air-con rooms also bag you mini-fridges to go with wall-to-wall carpeting and desks. So what has changed? Major price jumps have placed Zanom Sunrise's more basic rooms at questionable value. While this is a general trend across Lipe, it's worth mentioning that the resort's website listed the rooms we peeped at 300 baht cheaper than what we were quoted as walk-ins (they seem to have offered us the mid- December to February rate in November). This perhaps displays a greedy outlook that's causing basic rooms to go for substantially more than what they're worth -- and in some cases double what they went for a couple of years ago. Even so, Zanom Sunrise remains a decent option when taken in the context of a beach and island that have swung heavily upmarket.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 750 baht (low season) 1,200 baht (high season) - Peak 1,500 baht Bungalow air-con private b'room: 1,500 baht (low season) 3,000 baht (high season) - Peak 3,500 baht Deluxe- Double: 2,000 baht (low season) 3,500 baht (high season) - Peak 4,000 baht
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VARIN VILLAGE Cheapest digs on Sunrise Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (095) 091 5393 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
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With upmarket resorts engulfing much of Lipe, it's refreshing to see Varin Village's old but sturdy bamboo bungalows still spread over a prime piece of grassy real estate that opens straight onto a terrific patch of beach. The thatch-roof huts are spaced fairly far apart; most in the third and even fourth rows have partial sea views from a couple of plastic chairs on the porches. Inside you'll find nothing more than a mattress on bamboo floors, fan, mosquito net and basic cold-water bathroom. Some huts had received a fresh coat of brown paint for our most recent visit, and others sit shaded under trees. During high tide, first-row bungalows are no more than five or six metres from the water. The place is practically unstaffed; we arrived to find a woman who spoke no English sitting in a tiny hut with the owner's phone number poorly painted on a slab of wood. Those looking for a long stay on Lipe can settle in for 15,000 baht a month. Knock 100 baht off the rates listed here in the shoulder months, while things get negotiable in the rainy season. We were told that the owner wants to build a luxury resort but is fighting over the land deed. If he gets it, the cheap bungalows will no doubt be levelled in a hot minute. Varin Village mainly relies on walk-ins, but you could try contacting in advance through the website of Varin Beach Resort, a lacklustre midrange resort on Pattaya Beach run by the same group.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 600 baht (low season) 800 baht (high season) - Up to 1,200 in high season for beachfront bungalows.
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KAIXO LIPE RESORT Unusual and artistic Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (089) 164 5896 [email protected] http://www.kaixolipe.com Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
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A new addition as of 2014, Kaixo occupies a sliver of land that, like nearby Wapi Resort's space, used to be part of Tarutao Cabana. The Spanish and Thai owners have made the most of it by erecting a handful of two-floor wooden bungalows just behind the on-site Mediterranean Restaurant and beachfront deck. Large, partially open- air bathrooms on the ground floors allow you to clean your sandy feet off before climbing steep wooden stairs and opening a hatch to enter the bedroom on the second floor. With a firm mattress on the floor, large windows, wall-mounted fans and loads of thoughtful art, these are some of the more intriguing rooms we peeped on Lipe. Decor includes framed photos of local fishing life and a painting of the Buddha's eyes that mimics the famous mural on Kathmandu's Swayambhunath Stupa. These rooms are set back slightly from the beach and do not afford sea views. The welcoming and laid-back woman who showed us around mentioned that a few simpler (and presumably cheaper) wood bungalows would be ready at some point in 2015. If you prefer a more intimate and artistic resort, Kaixo is worth keeping in mind.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 1,000 baht (low season) 1,800 baht (high season)
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Sunset Beach and the northern coves Northwest-facing Sunset Beach has sadly moved past its days of being an affordable Eden for free-spirited backpackers. The old Porn Resort and its bungalows, which used to cover almost the entire hillside stretching behind the beach, was being torn down when we last visited in late 2014. An upscale resort will replace it, and midrange to luxury resorts now cover Sunset's southwestern corner. It's not all bad news though. The Fisheries Dept still rents out cheap accommodation on a hill between Sunset and an eastern cove, which has some interesting resorts of its own. Further west, a couple of tiny bungalow joints on private beaches are good options if you're looking to leave the world behind. If you don't stay here, be sure to swing by to catch the sunset.
SAWAN RESORT Exceptional Sunset Beach, Ko Lipe T: (080) 543 1466
25/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe [email protected] http://www.sawanresortkohlipe.com Check rates with Agoda 4,000B to 8,000B (Toprange ) If only more of Lipe's upmarket resorts would be more like Sawan. Perched over a quiet corner of Sunset Beach, Sawan's five luxury villas are constructed of smooth wood with thatch and bamboo accents. Along with day beds adorned with silk pillows, all rooms come with luxury beds placed on platforms with huge windows opening to views over Sunset Beach and Ko Adang's green mountains. Large private decks are also attached to each room, connected to the resort's soothing spa and restaurant via raised wooden walkways. In-room amenities include widescreen LED TVs, DVD players, espresso machines and teakettles, minibars, electronic safes and bathrobes, and partially open-air bathrooms with oversized rain showerheads and slick basin sinks. The beach is just down some stairs, with kayaks, snorkels and other water sports equipment provided complimentary. The place isn't cheap, but we appreciate how the rates don't jump up and down every two weeks like at most of Lipe's resorts. That tells you something about the management's outlook that it's best to keep things simple and easygoing, a feeling that pervades the place and makes it ideal for relaxation. We walked up to reception looking scruffy and sweaty, but the polite and non-pretentious manager treated us with a great deal of respect from the start. Sawan is our top pick on Lipe for a splurge.
Room rates Superior - Double: 5,500 baht (low season) 7,200 baht (high season) Deluxe- Double: 6,500 baht (low season) 8,200 baht (high season) Deluxe Suite: 8,900 baht (low season) 10,900 baht (high season)
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PHURITRA RESORT Lipe's most creative rooms The beach just east of Sunset Beach, Ko Lipe T: (085) 376 2555 http://www.phuritra.com Check rates with Agoda 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange )
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Another newish small resort run by younger Thais who have rebelled against the bland concrete architecture often favoured by older generations, Phuritra runs down a quiet hillside to the often overlooked small beach just beyond some rocks to the east of Sunset Beach. The wood bungalows immediately catch your eye thanks to their unusual shapes. The "Capsule" has rounded corners on all sides; the "UFO" looks like the upper three points of a diamond (or spaceship?) with the lower point blending into the deck; and the "Shark Fin", well, it's self- explanatory. Dark parquet wood, tall windows and modern furnishings make these rooms both creative and classy. They're rather small for the prices, though murals of larger-than-life flower vases and little silver pigs add a memorable touch to the interiors. Outfitted with firm but good-quality beds, large hot-water bathrooms, LCD TVs, mini-fridges and air-con, the rooms are intelligently set up facing in different directions so that your terrace doesn't look straight at another room. The numerous young staff members were very welcoming, and the attached Shambara Restaurant's dining decks allow you to take in splendid views to Ko Rawi and Ko Adang.
Room rates Standard - Double: 2,000 baht (low season) 2,800 baht (high season) - Shark fin Superior - Double: 2,600 baht (low season) 3,700 baht (high season) - UFO Deluxe- Double: 4,300 baht (low season) 6,100 baht (high season) - Capsule
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FISHERIES DEPARTMENT Basic but good value Sunset Beach, Ko Lipe T: (087) 478 7958 Under 600B (Backpacker )
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Many travellers are unaware that the local Thai Fisheries Department offers simple concrete rooms in attached buildings along with concrete bungalows perched directly over the sand. The accommodation is very similar to what you'll find at the national park headquarters on Ko Adang and Ko Tarutao: plenty of room, two firm single beds, standard- issue blankets and towels, simple cold-water bathrooms with flush toilets and several windows. Though they've seen better days, these rooms are some of the best budget value on Lipe. The department's white buildings stretch over a hill overlooking the far northeastern side of Sunset Beach. While the beachfront rooms are accessed from here via concrete footpaths, they're placed directly over the smaller easterly beach that also hosts Phuritra and Lipe Sunset resorts. The hill is shared with a Thai princess' big purple cottage; expect the whole area to be strictly closed off if she's in residence (generally not more than a week every couple of years). We found that at least one of the Fisheries staff spoke decent English and was more welcoming than we'd expect. The place had stacks of empty rooms when many of the pricier bungalow joints were nearly full during our late 2014 visit.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: n/a (low season) 800 baht (high season) - Upto 1,000 baht Dbl fan private b'room: n/a (low season) 600 baht (high season) - Up to 800 baht
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LIPE SUNSET BEACH RESORT Soak up the peace and quiet The beach just east of Sunset Beach, Ko Lipe T: (093) 008 8840 Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
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Not to be confused with Lipe Beach Resort on Sunrise Beach, Lipe Sunset is a straightforward option with sturdy bungalows strung over a forested hillside near Sunset Beach. Set on solid concrete frames, the wooden cabin-esque bungalows with tin roofs are spacious and equipped with comfortable beds raised off the floor, mosquito nets, wall-mounted fans, small safes (a surprising touch), large porches with direct sea views and clean hot-water bathrooms with sinks and flush toilets. Right next to the sand, the family cottage has a fridge, electric teakettle and rainshower in the bathroom, making it a good-value option for groups. The owner is a casual and good-natured Thai man who was sweeping up when we arrived. The setting is very quiet but keep in mind that you'll need to walk up and down some fairly steep stairs to access the beach and main road. Rates on Agoda were a bit higher than what we were quoted as walk-ins, but the resort has no website and the only way to reserve directly is by calling. The Hut Resort is a similar choice in terms of accommodation in this vicinity, but we didn't receive the warmest welcome there. Rates may go up during peak season.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 1,000 baht (low season) 1,500 baht (high season) Family room: 2,000 baht (low season) 2,800 baht (high season)
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BILA BEACH BUNGALOWS Good vibes on a secluded beach Bila Beach (west of Sunset Beach), Ko Lipe T: (087) 570 3684 F: (087) 570 3684 [email protected] http://www.bilabeach.asia 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
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Bila Beach is about a five-minute stroll to the west past Sunset beach, and a good 20-minute walk from Walking Street. It's no longer the most most far-flung of Lipe's resorts, but the small private beach is as quiet and laid back as ever. Placed over a steep hillside leading down to the beach, the rustic bamboo-and-thatch bungalows are tangled into the forest like bird's nests. Inside they're simple but spacious, with polished concrete or bamboo floors, firm beds with mosquito nets on four-poster bamboo frames, large bamboo terraces with hammocks and partially open-air cold-water bathrooms. Kayaks, snorkels, more hammocks, loungers and tables are spread over the small beach, and the shack of a bar/restaurant does home-cooked Thai to go with sandwiches, smoothies and cocktails. The dreadlocked Thai owners trade off between chef and bartender when not lounging in their hammocks. The place has a mellow, reggae-inspired atmosphere; look elsewhere if you're the type who expects a snappy staff always ready and waiting to fill your requests. Also keep in mind that Bila Beach is secluded and intimate, meaning you'll be in close contact with the same guests every day (so hopefully you get on with them). Just up the road, Spanish- managed Pitiusas Resort has a similar set up on its own tiny beach, though they charge quite a bit more for fan-cooled wood bungalows that aren't all that much better than Bila's.
Room rates Bungalow fan private b'room: 1,000 baht (low season) 1,500 baht (high season) Family room: 1,500 baht (low season) 2,000 baht (high season)
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Walking Street and inland While you'd expect to score deals when heading inland, we were surprised to find that many of the hotels and resorts on and around Walking Street and further inland charge similar rates as some beach resorts, without offering a whole lot more for your baht. A handful of small options are worth considering, however, including a pair of bungalow/camping spots located just past the island's forest temple. If you're on a shoestring budget, these are probably your best bets on the island.
TIME TO CHILL HOUSE Just what it sounds like Road to Sunset Beach, Ko Lipe T: (080) 543 1466
30/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe [email protected] http://www.kohlipe-timetochill.com 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) Located a quick hop up a quiet lane from Sunset Beach, Time to Chill is an intimate and artistic establishment that blends into the existing nature. Each of the five rooms are unique, but they're all fan-cooled, made almost entirely of wood with thoughtful decorative elements, and perched around a patch of greenery with a small restaurant at the centre. Set towards the back, the cheapest log cabin has a typical bungalow front porch to go with comfortable queen-size bed draped in mosquito netting. The other four rooms are set in an attractive pair of two-floor buildings. Each of these comes with larger porch, with the upper two rooms featuring floor-to-wall windows, vaulted thatch-and- bamboo ceilings, and doors opening onto enormous wraparound porches with hammocks and floor cushions. The lower rooms also have generously sized terraces. All rooms are outfitted with grass mats, classy wooden shelves and huge polished concrete bathrooms with flush toilets, stained glass basin sinks and cold-water rainshowers. Wearing a sarong and no shirt, the man who showed us around seemed about as gentle and peaceful as a person can be. This is a wonderfully secluded and romantic spot for nature lovers; just don't forget that mosquito repellent.
Room rates Standard - Double: n/a (low season) 2,000 baht (high season) Superior - Double: n/a (low season) 2,500 baht (high season) Deluxe- Double: n/a (low season) 3,000 baht (high season) Family room: n/a (low season) 4,000 baht (high season) Bungalow fan private b'room: n/a (low season) 1,500 baht (high season)
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LIPE ART GARDEN GUESTHOUSE Top spot for artsy backpackers Next to the forest temple on the main westerly road, Ko Lipe T: (086) 964 9008 [email protected] https://lipeartgarden.wordpress.com/our-bungalows/ Under 600B (Backpacker )
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One of our favourite budget spots on Lipe, the Art Garden is an example of what much of the island used to look and feel like. Imaginative portraits adorn large slabs of wood at the entrance, and Tibetan prayer flags are strung from tree to tree amid a small collection of bungalows. The cheapest options are tents with sleeping mats and pillows pitched on raised platforms, followed closely by rudimentary bamboo huts with stumpy doors that can't be locked as far as we could tell. Both of these rely on basic shared cold-water bathrooms at the centre of the grounds. If you can swing for them, the spacious dark-wood and thatch-roofed bungalows are more comfortable. These come with high ceilings, spring mattresses on hardwood floors, mosquito nets, fans, several windows, porches and clean, partially open polished concrete bathrooms with flush toilets, sinks and cold water. Welcoming owner Gee offers a small restaurant and displays his beautiful batik work and paintings in an on-site gallery. He's been on Lipe for over 15 years and truly cares about the island and his guests. While a drab two-storey concrete building was sadly being built on one side of the Art Garden during our most recent visit, the neighbouring forest temple ensures that the jungle covering the other side will be preserved. It's a 20-minute walk from Pattaya Beach if coming by the main roads, but a nearby short cut shoots straight downhill to the sand. Sunset Beach is also an easy stroll away. Please contact Lipe Art Garden direct for up to date information on rates.
Room rates
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THE BOX LIPE RESORT Unlike anywhere else Walking Street, Ko Lipe T: (086) 957 2480 [email protected] http://www.theboxliperesort.com Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker )
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Slap bang in the middle of Walking Street, The Box is best known for its terrific Spanish tapas and stylish bar, but it also has a small collection of well-equipped rooms in a garden area out the back. Set in recycled shipping containers that have been adapted into cube-like cabins, the tile and polished concrete rooms are outfitted with comfortable queen- size beds on bamboo frames, fan or air-con, TVs, mini-fridges and large hot-water bathrooms with modern appliances. Grass mats, traditional Thai art and rattan lanterns provide a hint of the exotic. There's only a curtain separating bathrooms from bedrooms, so you'll want to feel comfortable with your roommate if staying here. The resort's eco- friendly practices include using entirely recycled materials and recycling wastewater so that it can be used to water the garden. While we found the Spanish owner and his staff to be friendly enough, they also run a very busy restaurant/bar that could distract them from looking after the rooms and guests. If you prefer a more straightforward inland air-con option at around the same price, opt for Harmony Bed and Bakery.
Room rates Standard - Double: 1,200 baht (low season) 1,600 baht (high season) - 1,900 baht in peak season Deluxe- Double: 1,600 baht (low season) 2,400 baht (high season) - 2,900 baht in peak season
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KOH LIPE CAMPING Lipe's most basic accommodation Main westerly road, Ko Lipe T: (081) 076 3701 Under 600B (Backpacker ) New as of 2014, this rag-tag reggae-inspired joint will appear like a desert oasis to backpackers on tight budgets. Spread over a gradual hill with no shade, a handful of very basic bamboo huts have no fans and room only for firm cotton mats on the floor that can sleep two. The chilled-out owner also offers tents that can be pitched anywhere on the grounds, including the upper floor of an open-air wooden bar that affords a glimpse of the sea and Ko Rawi. While the huts are slightly more expensive than the similar ones at neighbouring Art Garden, the tents are a tad cheaper here. All guests share a few simple bathrooms with cold-water showers in a bamboo-and-tin structure. Well stocked
33/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe with cold beer, liquor and a few guitars, the bar is a great place to kick back and meet other travellers. Rates stay the same at all times of year, no matter how busy the island gets.
Room rates Tent: 200 baht Bungalow fan share b'room: 500 baht - No fan
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JACK'S JUNGLE Simple rooms in the forest The road to Sunset Beach, Ko Lipe T: (089) 736 4871 http://www.jacksjungle.com 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker ) One of the first resorts to appear amid Lipe's inland terrain, Jack's Jungle has been around since the days when most of the island was actually still covered in jungle. The fact that it's preserved a sizable patch of said jungle is remarkable. The place's vibe seemed to have lost some of its magic on our most recent visit; the fact that the young woman who showed us around looked baffled when we asked, "Is Jack here?" probably has something to do with that. The setup and prices haven't changed, with a small number of simple yet classy bungalows peppered a good distance apart over a lushly forested hillside. Both the bamboo and wood bungalows come with several windows, large porches, firm beds with mosquito nets and lovely garden bathrooms with cold water and completely open roofs above the bamboo showerheads. There's slightly more space in the wood versions and more open spaces for crawly things to enter in the bamboo editions. Jack's still seemed like a good option for those who appreciate their peace and quiet, though several neighbouring empty lots with "For Sale" signs could spell construction noise in the future. The location puts you a five-minute walk to Sunset Beach and 10- to 15 minutes from either of the larger beaches. You'll want a torch and mosquito repellent if staying here.
Room rates Standard - Double: 1,200 baht (low season) 1,400 baht (high season) - Bamboo bungalow; 1,600 in peak season.
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Superior - Double: 1,400 baht (low season) 1,600 baht (high season) - Wood bungalow; 2000 in peak season.
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HARMONY BED AND BAKERY Trendy air-con rooms Inland road that runs behind Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe T: (074) 750 428 F: (074) 750 429 [email protected] http://www.harmonylipe.com Check rates with Agoda 1,500B to 4,000B (Midrange ) Sitting just off the eastern end of Walking Street and a stone's throw from Sunrise Beach, Harmony isn't a bad option if you're after an inexpensive air-con room (at least by Lipe standards). The standard "cappuchino" rooms are not huge, but they are spotless and stylish with bright green, orange or yellow themes and glossy white tile floors. Beds are soft and all rooms come with air-con, modern hot water bathrooms, safes and satellite TVs. We appreciate how rates don't bounce up or down every week -- instead they stick to a straightforward low, high and peak season price scheme. On the ground floor, the attached bakery and coffee shop serves giant croissants with fresh coffee and air-con. Harmony is owned by Bundhaya, which runs a major resort on Pattaya Beach to go with one of the area's most prevalent speedboat operations. While lacking the family-owned feel of some of the bungalow joints, you can expect professional service at reception. A bit further inland, The Reef Hotel is a similar choice, while the nearby Ricci House has larger rooms that are also very comfortable but at significantly higher rates.
Room rates Standard - Double: 1,200 baht (low season) 2,000 baht (high season) - 2,300 in peak season; add 200 baht for a terrace. Family room: 1,900 baht (low season) 3,200 baht (high season) - 3,800 in peak season
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GECKO LIPE ISLAND RESORT Forest bungalows near the action Walking Street, Ko Lipe T: (087) 810 7257 [email protected] http://www.geckolipe.com Check rates with Agoda 600B to 1,500B (Flashpacker ) If you want to have an easy walk to any of the three main beaches, the Gecko is a fine choice. The small assortment of bamboo-and-wood bungalows is set amid a cluster of trees in a quiet spot just off Walking Street. With white paint over bamboo walls and double beds with mosquito nets placed over bamboo frames, the small standard bungalows come with cold-water bathrooms and mini-porches with tables and floor cushions. Larger deluxe bungalows with thatch roofs are more inviting, mainly thanks to better porches and partially open-air bathrooms with wide bamboo plank walls, modern sinks and hot-water showers. No trees were cut down to create the Gecko, though it's unclear if there's anything else behind its "eco-friendly" claim. The young woman at reception was very welcoming and spoke good English. It's a good idea to poke around on the booking sites before paying the standard rates through the resort's website. Neighbouring Gipsy 2 (an offshoot of Gipsy Resort on Sunrise Beach) is also a solid choice for an affordable inland bungalow.
Room rates Deluxe bungalow: n/a (low season) 1,400 baht (high season) - 2,500 baht in peak season Bungalow fan private b'room: n/a (low season) 950 baht (high season) - 1,500 baht in peak season
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Eat and meet Ko Lipe With several international cuisines joining authentic Thai and the ever-present seafood barbecues, Lipe does not disappoint when it comes to food.
The widest variety of places to eat and drink are found on and around Walking Street, a lively strip where you can enjoy a proper sit-down dinner or graze on barbecued pork skewers, fried chicken, roti (Southern Thai style fried "pancakes"), slices of brick-oven pizza from Paolo's, and excellent kebabs from a Greek man who sings in Greek while he cooks, to name just a few.
Now combined with Longtail Bar towards the Pattaya Beach end of Walking Street, the American-style Elephant Cafe is easily the best of the island's coffee shops, in our opinion. Along with hearty all-day breakfasts, they serve crusty grilled cheese sandwiches, Australian beef burgers and pulled pork sandwiches with homemade "Kansas City style" barbecue sauce. The coffee is arguably the best on Lipe, especially when accompanied by a house- baked brownie or slice of banana bread. Cocktails like the mangosteen cosmo can compete with any on the island, and you'll find a thoughtful list of imported and Thai wines to go with unexpected beers like Rogue Dead Guy Ale, which is likely to be a favourite of any Northwestern American beer snob. Drinking water is free, and all fruits and veggies are washed in purified water. They also have a book exchange to go with a laid-back staff and soundtrack that keeps things funky. With live music advertised every evening, this is also a go-to spot to unwind after dark.
Just up the strip from Elephant, the long-running Pee Pee Bakery remains a solid option for a sandwich, pizza or Thai meal. Their in-house bakery has the advantage of a street-side display where you can snatch a croissant, cinnamon roll or doughnut to take back to your bungalow. We can verify that, after years in business, they've perfected the coconut roll. Across from Pee Pee, the newish Lipe Sandwiches is a straightforward cafe that churns out better-than-average sandwiches and burgers, including in some unexpected varieties.
Around the corner on Pattaya Beach, Cafe Lipe remains one of our favourite spots for a
37/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe satisfying sandwich or Thai meal. They also serve a number of teas to go with excellent coffee and fruit smoothies in a low-key setting with wooden tables under a thatch roof just off the sand. If you find yourself on Sunset Beach, don't miss the exceptional oatmeal cookies, fudge brownies and fresh bread from the long-running Flour Power Bakery, which also serves an array of sandwiches and Thai meals amid a spread of beach tables that fill up for sunset. The owner told us that the 2014 - '15 season would be her last, so get here for a taste of this beloved Lipe institution while you can.
Moving on to the increasing number of places that focus exclusively on Thai food, Nee Papaya remains a fantastic choice across from the eastern end of Walking Street. Nee started several years ago with a small stand selling only som tam, and she's still known for producing some of the island's best papaya salads (though she now has a lot more competition). In addition, her rad na talay (seafood noodles in Thai-style gravy) and panang curry are both authentic and very flavourful, and her simple restaurant with bamboo furniture had added a small barbecue stand before our most recent visit.
Back over on Walking Street proper, Papaya Mom churns out over 20 variations of som tam to go with sticky rice and barbecued chicken and pork in a no-frills eatery that befits its authentic Isaan (Northeastern Thai) cuisine. Along with fiery som tam puu pla rah (extra- pungent papaya salad with fermented fish sauce and freshwater crab), the boisterous chefs do a great job with nam tok muu (spicy grilled pork neck salad) among several other Isaan favourites. This is also a fine choice for a more conventional Thai meal; with standby's like pad Thai and green curry receiving high marks. The prices are reasonable and flavours don't hold back for Western tastes.
If you fancy a breathtaking view to go with your Thai dinner, look no further than Shambara Restaurant, located at Phuritra Resort just east of Sunset Beach. In addition to usual options like tom yum (sweet and sour soup) and deep-fried squid, the menu features beloved-by- Thais specialties like gaeng luang (sour yellow curry with lotus stems) and a wide range of seafood served with a spread of intensely flavoured sauces. While not cheap, it's worth it for the quality food served on a breezy and secluded deck with views to Ko Rawi, Ko Adang and all of the boats in between.
Countless Walking Street and Pattaya Beach restaurants compete fiercely to sell their displays of seafood for barbecue, resulting in fresh foods served in large portions at often discounted rates. Though we haven't tried all of the barbecue establishments, Rak Lay is a tried-and-true joint that's especially popular with the island's Thai visitors. Red and white snapper, barracuda, sea bass, tiger prawns and squid are a few of the more popular options. When selecting seafood, avoid any restaurants displaying sharks or other exotic fishes that have almost certainly been caught illegally.
For a whole fried or barbecued fish that you can rest assured has been farmed responsibly, head to Castaway Resort's restaurant over on Sunrise Beach. Their entrancing seaside deck is a great choice at any time for a French press coffee, creative cocktail, bruschetta or, our personal favourite, fried som tam. Further up Sunrise Beach and associated with Walking Street's Elephant Cafe, the Elephant Bar and Restaurant at Lipe Beach Resort is another good option for cocktails and Thai food.
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If you're craving international cuisines, Lipe comes through more than you might expect for such a small island -- especially on the Mediterranean front. Down a side street that shoots west about halfway up Walking Street, La Luna is on a short list of the best Italian restaurants we've tried anywhere in Thailand. Their fettuccine, gnocchi and ravioli are handmade in house, and the pomodoro, Bolognese and other sauces strike the ideal balance between simple and flavourful. La Luna also serves massive portions of lasagna along with excellent salads, breads, wines and what's probably the best pizza on the island. It's not cheap -- 150 to 350 for pasta dishes -- but well worth it for a splurge. If you prefer an Italian feast at a beachside table, Italian-owned Blue Tribes on Pattaya Beach is another terrific option.
For more of a Spanish twist, look no further than The Box in the centre of Walking Street. This stylish and very popular cafe serves Mediterranean-inspired sandwiches on crusty bread that are arguably the best on Lipe. They also do very good burgers to go with dinner options like grilled pork loin with black pepper and blue cheese sauce. A number of creative cocktails are whipped up at the sleek bar, and the place gets lively after dark. Like La Luna, The Box is on the expensive side but worth the splurge.
Next to Nee Papaya, the long-running Namaste Restaurant still does decent Indian fare, including standards like chicken tikka masala, rogan josh and tandoori grilled meats to go with a number of vegetarian options. Lipe is now home to two more Indian spots called Bombay and Lipeh, respectively, though we didn't get around to trying them. Over near Ricci House and Sunrise Beach, Aroy Restaurant remains an adequate option if you're craving Tex-Mex style tacos and burritos.
Sidetracking all the way towards Lipe's western end on the road that winds past the forest temple and Sunset Beach, the far-flung Forever Restaurant is located just before the right turn towards Pitiusas Resort. Excellent home-cooked Burmese fare includes a tealeaf salad, while the Thai food is also very good and priced at only around 50 baht per plate (possibly the cheapest on the island). The genuinely welcoming owners make big and delicious fruit smoothies, and they'll throw a little sangsom rum in them for a little extra cash. Forever is a no-brainer if you're doing a bit of exploring amid Lipe's quiet western reaches, but it's also worth seeking out in its own right.
A summary of Lipe's dining and drinking options wouldn't be complete without a mention of Pooh's, a local institution that's been here since the days when Walking Street was nothing more than a sandy path. Owner Pooh is an enthusiastic guy who has campaigned tirelessly for Lipe's environment over the years. Serving nightly barbecue, including T-bone steaks along with an extensive Western and Thai menu, the lively restaurant/bar seems to stretch on forever and is a great place to meet other travellers. In addition to running the island's only radio station, Pooh's also plays free movies on a big screen and often hosts some good solo musicians and bands on its small stage.
Another establishment that blends dinner into party time is OMG!, located just up the road from Pooh's on the side road that winds behind the village near Sunrise Beach. Known for fast WiFi, outstanding burgers and finger foods, the atmosphere is great for relaxing with cold beer, cocktails and buckets from the full bar. OMG! also hosts movie nights and a billiards
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After the sun goes down, parts of Lipe are energized by music and drinking -- but not the all- out debauchery found on some Thai islands. If you're on a budget, a hole-in-the-wall bar sells 100 baht cocktails just up the street from Pooh's, while the more atmospheric Mellow Mango does 20% off all drinks from 17:00 to 19:00. Also on Walking Street, Rainforest is a small bar with an upbeat atmosphere where you can grab a stool and watch the talented bartenders whip up mojitos and other cocktails using fresh fruits and juices. If you dig more of a Rasta-reggae scene that's more removed from the action, Home Bar and Koh Lipe Camping are both worth a trip along the road towards Sunset Beach.
Most travellers after some nightlife end up at one of the many beach bars lining the central to eastern side of Pattaya Beach. Peace and Love Bar is a standout thanks to fire-spinning shows that are probably the best on the beach, but you'll find quite a few others that all get it done with cold beer, straightforward cocktails, live bands (or at least a thumping soundsystem) and often seafood barbecue to boot. Time to Chill is a fine option for some live music, courtesy of a house band that relies mostly on amplified acoustic instruments and has been going strong for years. Sights and activities
EXPLORING KO LIPE'S WESTERN PENINSULA Out of that hammock!
In recent years, many of the trees that once covered eastern Ko Lipe were leveled to make way for an ever-increasing number of concrete structures. Fortunately, Lipe’s rugged western peninsula remains largely untouched, revealing little-known viewpoints and an undeveloped beach to those who don’t mind a bit of bushwhacking. Where there’s a patch of island jungle, there’s a Travelfish researcher keen to explore it. We headed west from Sunrise Beach, through Lipe’s swiftly developing inland terrain along one of the island’s newly widened concrete roads. The buzz of construction died down when we got as far as the forest temple, beyond which lies only a few low-key bungalow joints on tiny north-facing coves. If you fancy a smoothie or meal before moving on, take a break at Bila Beach‘s laid-back bar/cafe, or the excellent Forever Restaurant along the main road. Just past Forever, look to your right for one of several unmarked paths — more like sections of partially cleared terrain than actual trails — as the road ascends up a hill. A newly built barbed-wire fence runs alongside one of them, but they all lead haphazardly north to a cluster of huge boulders that afford tremendous views over to Ko Adang, Ko Rawi and the azure stretch of sea that separates Lipe from these two larger neighbours. There are no signs, and some of the paths lead to nowhere, but it’s fairly easy to wander through the trees until you find the dark-grey boulders strewn over the hillside. They don’t look like much until you climb up to see the views. At time of writing, this quiet area offered solitude to go with the sea breeze, though given the increase in barbed wire, we’ll be surprised if it stays this way forever.
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Continuing west, the concrete road turned to dirt before reaching a side-path pointing south. Clamoring down the difficult-to-follow track that appeared to be used mainly by stray dogs and rainwater, we emerged at a small but completely empty and undeveloped beach facing south towards Langkawi. Though we didn’t find a cliff suitable for jumping, the leisurely late-morning swim was most welcome. Back on the main westerly road that was now little more than a sandy trail, we hiked under vast trees amid forest that made Lipe’s continuing development seem like a distant nightmare. Then the “road” stopped dead at a tangle of dense jungle that we assumed blanketed all of the land leading down to Lipe’s far western rocky coast. Perhaps because we were close enough to sense the ocean, we tricked ourselves into thinking that a slight break in the foliage was a path and proceeded to bushwhack forward. Finally, sharp thickets and slithering snakes told us loud: “No, it’s not a freakin’ path.” Though we never found an outlet to those cliffs, we’d still recommend a hike to Lipe’s far west if you don’t mind leaving your hammock in favour of a few hours of exploring. The great views and hidden beach made the trip worthwhile, but it was also good to get a feel for what all of the island would have looked like a few decades ago. While we sincerely hope that the western peninsula stays undeveloped forever, we wouldn’t bet on it. In other words, get here while there’s still some jungle left to see.
BOAT TRIP TO KO HIN NGAM, KO RAWI AND KO ADANG A must while on Lipe
Part of what makes Ko Lipe so enticing is that while it offers comfy accommodation, 24-hour electricity and a wide selection of food, it’s also surrounded by several pristine national park islands. A boat trip to Ko Hin Ngam, Ko Rawi and Ko Adang sprinkles a bit of nature, adventure and perhaps an evil curse or wish-come-true on to that beach holiday.
With a young boat driver, aptly named Boat, at the helm of our hired longtail, we set off at 09:30 and cruised north. The mountains of Lipe’s two larger and more rugged neighbours, Ko Rawi and Ko Adang, soon came into view, but we first diverged at a snorkelling site called Bak-a-lat. Boat told us that soft coral can be seen here, though we gave up after struggling through poor visibility and throngs of other snorkellers. Our disappointing start was quickly forgotten when we slapped on our flippers once again and dove into far less crowded and clearer water just south of Ko Hin Ngam. This time, a half- hour slipped away in what seemed like a heartbeat as we explored a seascape that’s home to tropical fish and spiky sea urchins that pulsed on the surface of deep green coral. Back on board and with fingertips like raisins, Boat slid his boat up to the curious stone beach of Ko Hin Ngam, or “Island of Beautiful Stones“. While most Andaman islands boast sandy beaches, Ko Hin Ngam is a magnet for stones that wash ashore after being polished by untold time in the deep. Piled high and almost entirely uniform, the dark grey stones are so smooth that it’s a pleasure to walk on them with bare feet. Some appear as perfectly oval grey discs
41/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe while others bear intricate spirals of mother nature’s design. Though it’s tempting to pocket a stone or two as souvenirs, a local sea gypsy legend tells how the island was created by a greedy god who hordes the stones. Anyone who steals one is believed to be cursed by the god until the stones are returned. It’s not uncommon, we learned, for wayward “thieves” to send stones by international post to the Ko Adang national park office along with desperate letters begging for them to be brought back to the island. [Ed's note: A woman I was travelling with several years ago told me she took one -- and was run over by a longtail the next day.] Ko Hin Ngam’s resident deity might make life hell for those who defy it, but the god is also thought to bless visitors who enjoy its stones in a respectful way. Anyone who creates a tower 12 stones tall that doesn’t topple before they leave the island is believed to be granted any wish they desire. Although the island is aesthetically unique, it’s probably this superstitious promise that explains why so many Thai visitors are often found here. With no stones in our pockets, we shoved off and navigated due north towards an unspoilt powdery white sand beach on the south shore of Ko Rawi. Here we enjoyed a simple lunch of rice, chicken and fresh fruit on a broad boulder shaded by gently swaying palms. With bellies full, we followed a stream into the jungle as frogs leaped into crystal clear pools, monkeys rustled in the brush and majestic white birds soared from old-growth tree tops. Upon returning to the beach, we came across a sign stating that a Thai king visited this very shore 200 years ago. King Rama III apparently “spent five months in (the island’s) arms and cried when he left”, so it’s no surprise that this sublime stretch of sand is known as “King’s Beach”. There’s no doubt that its beauty is suitable for royalty, but we weren’t complaining about having it entirely to ourselves. Once Boat had enjoyed his fill of fresh pineapple and watermelon, we skirted the west coast of Ko Adang and its dramatic rock formations that look to have been tossed here by a far bigger god than the one on Ko Hin Ngam. Though we explored Ko Adang on a previous trip, we had no qualms with sinking our feet into its own luscious white sand once again. With midday sun beating down, we climbed the steep trail that leads up Chadoe Cliff and were rewarded with some of the most spectacular views in the entire Andaman Sea. Ko Tarutao loomed to the east as we looked straight down on the cerulean blue water that rims the shores of Lipe and Adang. In the end, we concluded that a cliff jump from the top of Chadoe was a little too daunting (next time we’ll remember our wingsuit), but we did go for one more swim off the beach before rousing Boat from his slumber and returning to Lipe. Not only did our little exploration at sea make for a fun and adventurous day, it was also a welcome break from the crowds on Lipe. We paid 1,500 baht to charter the longtail from 09:00 to 16:00, lunch included. It’s also possible to join a group boat trip for 550 baht per person, although these are typically more centered on snorkelling with fewer chances to explore the islands on foot. If you like the look of Boat’s boat, he can usually be found laying low at Gipsy Resort when not off maneuvering the waves.
DIVING ON KO LIPE
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Plenty of options
Diving is big business on Ko Lipe, with at least 10 operations offering everything from casual half-day dives to PADI certification in a wide range of languages. During high season, boats go out daily for spectacular local dive sites like Eight Mile Rock, Stonehenge and Ko Lantcha. More distant sites like Hin Daeng and Ko Haa can be reached on the multi-day live-aboard trips offered by Forra Diving.
When comparing dive companies, it's a good idea to focus on factors other than price: equipment maintenance, ethics and experience should all be considerations too. The following Lipe-based companies have good reputations, with some focusing on straightforward day trips and others offering an impressive spread of specialty courses among other features.
Forra Diving http://www.forradiving.com T: (080) 545 5012 ; (084) 407 5691 Since 1997, Forra Diving has been one of Ko Lipe's most noticeable, reliable and innovative dive operations. With headquarters on Sunrise Beach and secondary offices on Pattaya Beach and Walking Street, their coterie of multilingual instructors has developed an excellent reputation. Their live-aboard (aka "marine safari") diving trips take to the seas on a 27-metre yacht and can run from Lipe all the way up to Phuket, stopping at several world-renowned dive sites along the way. Forra also offers night diving and day trips to a rotating collection of local sites. Snorkellers are encouraged to tag along on day dives for 650 baht, or 1,500 baht per day on the live-aboard trips -- good value if you're looking to head north in a more gradual way. Forra is open from the beginning of November until May 15 and consistently gets great reviews. They also operate small bungalow resorts on Sunrise and Pattaya beaches that are usually occupied by divers.
Ocean Pro Divers T: (089) 733 8068 ; (081) 572 1324 http://www.oceanprodivers.net/ Canadian-owned Ocean Pro have also developed a fine reputation, not only for their experience and expertise, but also their relaxed yet professional service and attention to detail. Divers head out to sea aboard an array of speedboats and rates include buffet lunches that have received good reports. Snorkellers are also welcome to tag along. Ocean Pro can help secure divers a discount on accommodation at Varin Resort, and will give a discount if you book three days of diving or more. If you do a PADI course with Ocean Pro there's also a discount for any future dives you do with them. While they don't offer live-aboard trips, they are experts on the many excellent dive sites in the Adang archipelago.
Castaway Divers www.kohlipedivers.com T: (087) 478 1615 Based at the same-named resort on Sunrise Beach, Castaway Divers offers an excellent diving experience that goes beyond what you might expect. Like everything at Castaway, the
43/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe vibe is relaxed and professional, and groups are limited to four divers per course, or two students per instructor. Divers head out by longtail boat and enjoy lunch at one of the area's tiny islands. Along with the usual day trips to the best dive sites around Ko Lipe, they offer the full range of certifications in nine languages to go with specialist diving courses that include night diving, deep diving, free diving, underwater photography and navigation diving. Divers also receive a discount on rooms at the resort.
Ko Lipe Diving T: (088) 397 7749 ; (087) 622 6204 www.scubadivingkohlipe.com With its main office right on Walking Street, the highly professional Ko Lipe Diving offers nearly two-dozen different types of courses, including search and recovery and wreck diving at the 75-metre-long Yong Hua Wreck, among several other specialty options. Though the multi-lingual instructors are known for their courses, daily fun dives to several of the best sites in the Adang archipelago are also offered. With an emphasis on education and non- pretentious service, this is an especially good option if you're just starting out in diving.
Sabye Diving http://www.sabyesports.com T: (089) 464 5884 Sharing space with Flour Power Bakery on Sunset Beach and Bundhaya Resort on Pattaya Beach, Sabye was one of the first scuba centres to open on Lipe. Their diving rates aren't the cheapest, but their expertise and quality get them high marks from divers. They offer all- inclusive two- or three-day packages, plus specialty PADI courses and underwater photography. Sabye's website was having some issues at time of writing, but it's worth stopping by their offices once on Lipe if you can't track them down online.
Davy Jones Locker www.scubadivekohlipe.com T: (090) 324 1248 Originally launched on Ko Tao in 1995, Davy Jones Locker opened a small operation on Lipe's Pattaya Beach in more recent years. They present a straightforward assortment of small- group diving courses, day trips and packages that represent good value for money. Divers booking multi-day packages get a free air-con dorm bed at Koh Lipe Backpackers Hostel, located in the same building as the main office. This is a good option if you prefer to keep things simple.
Adang Sea Divers www.adangseadivers.com T: (083) 100 6450 Offering more intimate experiences than some of Lipe's dive operations, Adang Sea Divers has an office and eco-lodge where divers get a discount just back from Sunrise Beach. They specialise in digital underwater photography courses and provide all of the cameras and other equipment you'll need. Other options include underwater naturalist and night diving courses. Adang Sea Divers also offers the more standard courses to go with daily fun dives by way of a small speedboat. Prices drop as the number of divers on a trip increases, making this a good option if you're travelling with a group of divers.
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BOAT TOURS, SNORKELLING AND KAYAKING Choose wisely
Package snorkelling and other boat tours can be booked practically everywhere you look on Lipe, and arranging a private boat trip is usually a simple matter of chatting up the longtail drivers or asking your resort for help. Most package tours use longtail boats to cruise up to 12 people around some combination of the many islands and snorkelling sites of the Adang archipelago. A handful of speedboat tours are also available for more cash.
Though the coral around Lipe is dormant and largely colourless due to bleaching (itself a product of rising sea temperatures), there's still soft coral and a very impressive array of tropical fish -- including clownfish, anemones and rays -- to be peeped off islets like Ko Bulu and Ko Lugoi. A nearby site known as Jabang boasts soft coral spread over a 16-metre high pinnacle that nearly touches the surface. Snorkeller and diver traffic during peak season sometimes makes it difficult to fully appreciate the seascapes.
Some package tours include up to five opportunities to snorkel off the boat, but only one or two stops on dry land, typically at Ko Hin Ngam's mysterious smooth-rock beach and a white- sand beach on Ko Adang, Ko Rawi or Ko Dong for lunch. Other tours will stop at a couple of snorkelling sites while also allowing time for beach-lounging or hiking. Be sure to ask for specifics before booking to ensure that you get the right sort of experience for you.
Any package tour will include lunch, drinking water, snorkels, masks, fins and the national park fees if necessary, and the most popular run from around 09:00 to 16:00. Offered by many different tour companies and resorts, package tours can cost anywhere from 400 to over 1,000 baht per person for a full day. Snorkellers can also tag along with most of the day- diving boats for around 650 baht including lunch.
The other option, which we tend to prefer, is to charter a longtail boat privately. Expect to pay a minimum of 1,500 baht (for the boat, not per person) for a three-hour trip to do some snorkelling and make a stop at Ko Adang to climb Chadoe Cliff. Full-day private trips can cost anywhere from 1,700 to 4,000 baht or more, depending on how far you want to go and how much you're willing to haggle.
The furthest possible destination by longtail would be Ko Khai, a tiny undeveloped island with a natural stone arch perched over a stunning coral-sand beach. Another option that's not typically advertised is Kinnaree Waterfall, which cascades down a series of cliffs on Ko Adang's rocky east coast. We've been told it's possible to do some cliff jumping here.
Private longtail boats can be arranged directly with the boat drivers in front of the school on Sunrise Beach, at a boatmen's shack further down the same beach past Castaway Resort, and at the makeshift pier at the centre of Pattaya Beach. It's normal to walk up to a boatman anywhere on the island and see if he's up for a trip. Most resorts have a boat that they can arrange in advance if you request it, and the larger resorts will have several on payroll.
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While you won't be able to haggle for a lower price if booking through a resort, the advantage is that their boat drivers are more likely to be sane, sober and otherwise dependable. Some of the boatmen are heavy drinkers who start early in the morning and bring an iced tea bottle full of whiskey along for the trip, so do try to get a whiff of their breath before getting on board -- and don't be afraid to cite safety concerns if you decide to cancel at the last minute due to drunkenness. Private boat trips are always paid for at the end of the trip.
Some good snorkelling can also be done at several places off Lipe's shores. Unfortunately, many of the same reckless boatmen mentioned above steer their boats dangerously close to shore without adequately checking for snorkellers. They seem to think it's the snorkellers' job to watch out for boats, and not the other way around. Snorkels and masks can be rented at many resorts and travel offices for around 200 baht per day.
If you prefer to paddle a boat under your own steam, kayaks are readily available on all of the beaches and typically cost 200 baht per hour, or 400 to 500 for the day. Clear-bottomed glass kayaks are also popular but cost considerably more. Ko Adang can be reached by kayak if you've got some strength to spare, while those after a more leisurely paddle might head over to Ko Kra and Ko Usen, the tiny twin islets off the coast of Sunrise Beach.
Transport Bus
Many travellers book a combined Air minibus/ferry transfer to Ko Lipe from Krabi, Trang or Hat Yai, all of which can be reached The closest airports are in Hat Yai and Trang, by long-distance bus from Bangkok and both around 100 km from Pakbara. Hat Yai many other places in Thailand. Pakbara can services daily flights from Bangkok, Kuala only be reached by songthaew from the Lumpur and Singapore, while Trang can only nearby town of La-Ngu, which itself can be be reached from Bangkok courtesy of Air reached by hourly public minibuses and Asia and Nok Air. Both of these airlines offer regular buses from Trang, Hat Yai and Satun. all-in tickets via Hat Yai that include flight, minibus transfer and ferry to Ko Lipe. While At time of writing, there are no public boats this service is not offered via Trang, you can running between Ko Lipe and Satun's book a minibus/ferry transfer direct to Ko Tammalang pier, and transfers to Satun Lipe from one of the travel offices across could not be booked at Lipe travel offices. To from the train station, provided you get there reach Satun town, catch one of the orange before the 09:30 departure. (See the Trang La-Ngu bound songthaews (20 baht) that transport section for more info.) depart from the parking area in front of the pier in Pakbara. Once in La-Ngu, you can Train transfer to a minibus (50 baht) to Satun town, which depart every 30 minutes until The closest train stations are also located in 17:00. Tell the songthaew driver in Pakbara Hat Yai and Trang, both serviced by at least that you're headed to Satun and they'll drop two daily trains from Bangkok's you at the right place. Hualamphong Station. Hat Yai can also be reached by train from Malaysia. Ko Sukorn and Ko Libong can only be
46/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe reached from the mainland via a songthaew Langkawi in low season. and ferry from Trang. Otherwise you can book a private transfer from Pakbara for To/from Ko Adang and Ko Rawi around 2,000 baht, or first head to Ko Kradan Longtail boats to Ko Adang and Ko Rawi can and arrange an expensive private longtail be arranged directly with the boatmen on from there. any of Lipe's beaches. If headed to Adang, grab a boat from in front of the school on Ko Lao Liang can only be reached by an Sunrise Beach as these cost only 100 baht arranged pick up service in Trang (info at one-way, as opposed to 200 baht or more www.laoliangresort.com), or private longtail from elsewhere. A one-way trip to Ko Rawi from Ko Sukorn or the mainland. will cost around 500 baht. It's best to arrange for a pick up with the same boat driver if Boat you're only doing a day trip. Otherwise you'll have to ask the not-so-helpful national park Speedboats staff to call a boat, or try to jump in one During high season (November through that's already been arranged by other April), speedboats operated by various travellers. companies depart for Ko Lipe from Pakbara pier on the Thai mainland at 09:30, 11:30, Other islands 14:30 and 15:30, cost 650 baht, and take From November 1 through the end of April, around 90 minutes. It's possible to purchase Ko Lipe is connected to a handful of other tickets from offices operated by the boat islands by direct island-hopping speedboats. companies in Pakbara town, though this is These depart Lipe at 09:00, reaching Ko not cheaper than booking through a travel Bulon Lae at 10:00 for 600 baht; Ko Kradan agent. Boats return to Pakbara from Lipe at at 10:45 for 1,400 baht; Ko Muk at 11:00 for 09:30, 13:30, 14:30 and 16:00. 1,400 baht; Ko Ngai at 11:30 for 1,600 baht; and Ko Lanta at 12:00 for 1,900 baht. Ko Phi In low season, speedboats depart Pakbara for Phi and Phuket can be reached by Ko Lipe at 11:30, returning at 09:30 (weather transferring on Ko Lanta, or by taking the dependent). Tigerline ferry (more info below).
To/from Ko Tarutao In the opposite direction, speedboats depart In high season, boats departing Lipe at 09:30 for Lipe from Ko Lanta at 10:30; Ko Ngai at and 13:30 stop at Ko Tarutao for 450 baht. 11:00; Ko Muk at 11:30; Ko Kradan at 11:45; One boat departs Ko Tarutao for Lipe at and Ko Bulon Lae at 12:30. We've found the 11:00. Ko Tarutao is not open in low Bundhaya speedboat to be more prompt season. than the Satun Pakbara speedboat (this is the company's name and not the To/from Langkawi destinations involved), though only the latter From November 16 to April 30, speedboats stops at Ko Kradan. depart Langkawi's Kuah Jetty in Malaysia for Ko Lipe at 09:30 and 14:30, cost 1,000 baht, Boat tickets can be purchased at virtually and take around 90 minutes. Thai any travel office or resort on Lipe and any of immigration will stamp you into the Kingdom the other islands serviced by the island- upon arrival at Pattaya Beach. Boats run to hopping speedboats. Tickets can also be Langkawi from Lipe at 11:00 and 16:00. purchased in advance through Boats do not run between Lipe and www.thaibeachtravellers.com at the same
47/48 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/ somtam2000's Travelfish guide to Ko Lipe fares as other travel agents, though it from most travel offices on Ko Lipe. Limited doesn't offer all available options. services will be available in low season. Do shop around as some travel agents try to The Tigerline ferry also runs to/from Ko charge a higher commission than others. Lipe during during high season, departing Expect a chaotic scene when you arrive in Phuket at 08:00 and Ko Phi Phi at 09:00 and Pakbara; keep your eyes and ears open for stopping at all of the islands served by the signs and people shouting the name of your other speedboat companies, plus Hat Yao destination. pier in Trang, before reaching Ko Lipe at 15:00 and continuing on to Langkawi. All options listed below involve a 09:30 Tigerline heads north from Ko Lipe at 10:00. departure from Lipe. Timeframes cover the Tigerline is a bit cheaper but also slower than boat ride, transfer time and minibus ride, and the Bundhaya and Satun Pakbara they assume minimal delays. speedboats. Regional travel agents often don't sell their tickets, which can be booked Bangkok: 1,400 baht, uses a regular-size directly at www.tigerlinetravel.com. air-con bus that terminates at Khao San Road. At time of writing, the arrivals/departures Hat Yai: Costs 700 baht to the city or 800 to situation at Ko Lipe was confusing. The the airport, takes around four hours. Bundhaya and Satun Pakbara island-hopping Krabi: Costs 900 baht, takes around six speedboats were departing and hours; passengers heading to Ao Nang, disembarking directly on the sand at Pattaya Phuket or Ko Lanta can transfer here. Beach, but Tigerline and other ferries from Surat Thani: 1,300 baht, requires a the mainland were docking at a floating transfer. platform off the coast of Sunset Beach, Trang: Costs 700 baht, takes around four requiring passengers to pay 50 baht per hours, drops passengers at the airport and person for a longtail boat transfer to/from then the train station. shore. Getting Around We were told that the floating platform had been recently moved from the water off Ko Lipe is no more than a few square km Pattaya Beach due to wind and will likely be wide and up until a few years ago the only moved back later in the season, in which ways to get around were walking, kayaking case you should also expect to pay the 50- and longtail boat. The roads have since been baht longtail transfer fee. The travel agent sealed and widened throughout the island, who you buy your ticket from on Lipe should and sidecar motorbike taxis are now tell you where and when to meet your boat. prevalent. Expect to pay a flat 50 baht fee if The 20 baht "entrance fee" that was you can't manage the five- to 15-minute walk collected from all arriving travellers in years between beaches. past was not being charged in late November '14. Rental bicycles have yet to catch on. Some of the resorts, including Phuritra and Time to Boat/minibus transfers Chill House, offer bicycles to guests for free During high season, tickets for combined and may rent them out to non-guests if there ferry and minibus transfers can be booked are enough to go around.
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