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region’s production is white and apart from Limoux The blending of grape varieties and use of oak also ‘Picpoul de and Picpoul de Pinet, white-winemaking has always seems better handled. Above all there is greater A fresh look appeared a low-key activity. The Mediterranean knowledge of the different terroirs and those best Pinet is the climate generally favours full-bodied reds and suited to producing whites with freshness and rosés, with whites seemingly an afterthought. balance. The higher reaches of Minervois, Faugères largest white That train of thinking, though, belies historical and the foothills of the Cévennes come to mind, as at white precedence – Picpoul de Pinet has always been well as the basalt and limestone soils of Pézenas appellation uniquely white and La Clape was principally white and Pic-St-Loup lower down. From popular Picpoul de Pinet and Limoux sparklers to before turning to red wines. It also ignores the in the south existence of local white varieties, Bourboulenc, Change of style dynamic IGP producers, James Lawther MW gives Blanc, Clairette and Piquepoul Blanc, Tastings across the region conducted in February of France’ an overview of today’s star performers which have been steadily cultivated over the this year indicated that producers are moving away centuries due to their suitability to the climate. from overripeness and heavy extraction, towards a Factor in the successful integration of imports like more elegant expression of the fruit. Vintages seem mong the Gold medals and Trophies Blanc from Spain and and relatively uniform with a touch more freshness in awarded at the 2015 edition of the from the Rhône – as well as the 2013 and 2014, and a more rounded profile for Decanter World Wine Awards, there increasing skill of local winemakers – and the the warm, generous 2015. Thereafter, there is an ➢ were a couple of eye-catching foundations for white-winemaking appear solid. choices made by the Languedoc Technical skill has been acquired over the years Below: Limoux A panel. Two Languedoc whites were awarded by trial and error, as well as prescribed investment. produces some of the Trophies, while a Picpoul de Pinet and white La Practices such as harvesting at night or in the cool best-value sparkling Clape scooped Gold. Surprisingly perhaps, the of the early morning, temperature control and cold wines in France

Languedoc does produce dry and, as Deschamps/CIVL Gilles et Céline Photographs: settling have helped the quality of the wines. these awards show, quality is on an upward curve. If you’re still a little fuzzy about Languedoc whites, it is understandable. Only 10% of the

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intriguing diversity of styles depending on the ‘The stamp of the south is evident with grape variety or blend and winemaking influence, principally oaked or unoaked wines. The stamp of floral/herbal aromas, white and yellow the south, though, is evident with floral/herbal aromas, white and yellow fruit to the fore and, in the fruits to the fore, and freshness’ best examples, freshness without overriding acidity.

Picpoul de Pinet hand-picked and fermented and aged in oak As an easy-drinking, go-to wine, Picpoul de Pinet barrels. Domaines such as Baronarques approach fits the bill perfectly. It is made from a single grape a Burgundian weight and presence but generally variety, Piquepoul Blanc, vinified to preserve the speaking the acidity produces a zestier style with a fruit and bottled early (November to March after the pronounced pitch of fruit. Over-oaking used to be a The grapes for still vintage) in an easily identifiable, tall, embossed problem but has now abated. white Limoux wines bottle known as the Neptune. The later ripening One last area to keep an eye on for interesting are hand-picked Piquepoul provides a zesty, citrus-edged wine with Languedoc whites is among the region’s IGPs, good acidity, to drink within the year. Picpoul de formerly vins de pays. There’s a greater liberty in Pinet is the largest white wine appellation in the mind this is a wine that’s best enjoyed on the fruit Above: the vineyard at Mediterranean temperatures are moderated by the selection of grape varieties, so huge diversity, south of France, producing an average nine million within a year, but there are some oaked examples Château La Négly in La westerly air currents and elevation (200m to plus some talented producers, and terroirs that are bottles a year, just over half of which are exported. that possibly merit a little longer. Clape, where the local 450m), and rainfall is higher. It’s a more attractive suitable for white wine production. It’s one of the more visible Languedoc whites and The finest examples of white Languedoc – wines grape Bourboulenc climate for white wine production and both IGP Côtes de Thongue, to the west of Picpoul de one that already appeals to the British market as a with a little more complexity and substance that can provides the base sparkling and still wines are made, this time from Pinet, has a group of dynamic producers (domaines third of the production is consumed within the UK. age for five or six years – are often labelled AC for white blends Chardonnay, Mauzac and Chenin Blanc. Condamine L’Evêque, l’Arjolle, Montrose and In a similar vein La Clape – which received full Languedoc (or Coteaux de Languedoc until 2017). Monplézy, for example) but my bet, certainly for the communal appellation status in 2015 for red and They can come from a broad sweep of land but, as Limoux whites future, goes with IGP Cévennes and IGP Coteaux du white wines – uses a local variety, Bourboulenc mentioned, a higher terrain (200m to 350m above Historical records show sparkling wines have been Pont du Gard to the east in the Gard department. (minimum 40% in the vineyard) to provide the sea level) and/or calcareous-clay soils are often produced here since 1544. Today, Blanquette de The former can climb to 300m altitude and has an backbone for its whites. Again late ripening and favoured. Perfumed Roussanne with its herbal, Limoux and Crémant de Limoux, both made by interesting diurnal temperature range, with schist suited to warm, dry conditions, Bourboulenc floral notes and higher acidity is the mainstay of méthode traditionnelle – the former with 90% and calcareous soils. Mas Seren’s Etamin (see provides balance without marked acidity and a many blends, complemented by Grenache Blanc, appley Mauzac and the latter with a minimum 50% below) is a sign of the good things to come. low-key citrus perfume. It is usually blended with Marsanne and sometimes Viognier or . Chardonnay – provide some of the best-value The Languedoc’s whites may be in the minority James Lawther MW Roussanne and a little Grenache Blanc or Viognier Over in the far west of the Languedoc, Limoux sparkling wines in France. Still white Limoux is but they have an original taste profile, are keenly is a contributing editor so the aromatic nuance can vary and there is more appears as a stranger within the context of the made essentially from Chardonnay, sometimes with priced and increasingly worth seeking out. In the to Decanter, based in weight to the palate than Picpoul de Pinet. To my region. Green, rolling hills replace stony garrigue. a little Mauzac or Chenin Blanc. The grapes are main they are best with food. D southwest France

Top whites to try little Clairette and Viognier. Real purity of and a hint of buttery oak. Plenty of Roussanne and Viognier. Floral and fruit with peach, pear and floral notes. extract. Lovely minerally tension on the honeyed nose. Medium-bodied, Domaine Delmas, Cuvées tension provides a long, persistent finish. freshness and length on the finish. This Palate supple and seductive; lovely finish. Best with food. Drink 2016-2019 minerally and dry. Well-balanced. Clean, des Sacres, Crémant de Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% needs food. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% texture and intensity of fruit. Drinking Alc 13% fresh finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% Limoux AOC 2011 89 really well now. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14% N/A UK www.blanquette- Domaine d’Aupilhac, Les Cocalières, Mas Seren, Etamin, Cévennes Caves du Sieur d’Arques, Domaine Félines Jourdan, delmas-bio.com Languedoc AOC 2014 91 IGP 2014 90 Château La Négly, La Brise Toques et Clochers Haute Picpoul de Pinet AOC 2015 88 Chardonnay (60%), Pinot £17 (2011) Dulwich Vintners N/A UK www.mas-seren.fr Marine, La Clape AOC 2015 89 Vallée, Limoux AOC 2013 88 £8.50-£9.99 Carruthers & Kent, Noir, Chenin Blanc and A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Blend of Roussanne (80%) and £11.99-£12.95 (2014) Bancroft, £13.99-£14.35 (2012) Ellis Majestic, The Wine Society Mauzac from selected Grenache Blanc and Vermentino grown Grenache (20%). Aged on the Berry Bros & Rudd, H2Vin, James Wharton, Hay Wines, Joseph 100% Piquepoul. Floral, citrus parcels. Only the first press at an altitude of 350m. A subtle and lees but with no oak. Beautiful Nicholson, Uncorked Barnes aroma and flavour. Good depth (cuvée) used. Fine and complex nose with blossom and white texture and fruit. Peach aroma A blend of 70% Bourboulenc Made from 100% Chardonnay. of fruit. Round but crisp and persistent bead. Citrus and fruit notes. The palate is rich, round and with smoky, toasted notes. and 30% Roussanne. Fresh, Subtle, citrus-edged nose. fresh. Lip-smacking flavour. apple notes. Real purity of expression. supple with a caressing texture and Palate unctuous and aromatic; floral and fruity. The palate is Palate structured and fresh Drink 2016-2017 Alc 12.5% The palate is dry, long and refreshing. lingering finish. Will develop further. acacia and honeyed flavour. clean, juicy and well balanced. with well integrated oak. Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 12.5% Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Finishes with a bright, minerally Easily downed, this is a Bright acidity gives a long, Domaine des Lauriers, Prestige, tension. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% thirst-quenching wine with linear finish. Complete and harmonious Picpoul de Pinet AOC 2015 87 Château des Estanilles, L’Impertinent, Domaine Py, 3ème Cuvée, Corbières substance. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13% – not at all over-worked. Drink 2016-2018 £8.30 Tanners Faugères AOC 2015 91 AOC 2015 90 Prieuré St-Jean de Bébian, La Chapelle Alc 13% 100% Piquepoul. Touch more depth than £13.75 (2014) Yapp Bros £10.75 (2014) Yapp Bros de Bébian, Languedoc AOC 2014 90 Clos du Gravillas, L’Inattendu, the regular cuvée. Apple and pear notes. A blend of Marsanne and Roussanne with Blend of Grenache Blanc, Vermentino £11.46-£17.20 Georges Barbier, Terroir Minervois AOC 2014 89 Château-Bas d’Aumalas, Languedoc Fruity and fresh with a bone-dry finish. a touch of Viognier. Complex floral and and Roussanne. Rich but harmonious. Languedoc £22.99 Les Caves de Pyrène, Joseph Barnes AOC 2014 88 Drink 2016-2017 Alc 12.5% herbal aromatics and flavours. Palate is Expressive aroma and flavour with dried The domaine’s second wine. Principally A blend of Grenache Blanc and Macabeo. £16 (2013) The Sampler round, supple and balanced. Minerally fruit, pear and vanilla notes. Minerally Grenache Blanc and Roussanne with a Rich and full palate with confit fruit notes Majority Grenache Blanc blended with For full UK stockist details turn to p18

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