STANDARD U.S. POSTAGE PAID PERMIT NO. 26 2020 Edition PAWLEYS ISLAND, S.C. 29585 BeachesThe Coastal Observer guide to the season on Waccamaw Neck A distant shore

A new day at the beach: Pawleys Island’s Wildlife: Behind the scenes at the S.C. renourishment project. Second Front Sea Turtle Center. Page 10

Essentials: The table wine of the South. Page 15

Traditions: A family Cycling: Beach cruis- retreat for six genera- ers go off the beaten tions. Page 18 path. Page 21 COASTAL OBSERVER 2 Beaches Summer 2020 SAFETY | Rules for beachgoers A few words to the wise

They take their own trash along with one item someone else left behind. Georgetown County also prohib- Photo | its glass containers on the beach. The beach rules for Georgetown County Beach fires. The town of and the town of Pawleys Island requires people who Pawleys Island differ, want to have beach fires to register at but they are posted by Town Hall (843-237-1698). The town also requires that fires be in a pit and the access points. that only charcoal be burned. “fireworks-free zones.” It is illegal to ers, swimmers, surfers and others in The rules are intended to reduce shoot fireworks from or over these the water.” the risk of fire on the island because zones. On Pawleys Island, it’s illegal to many homes are close together. The paper and plastic debris fish for sharks or do anything to at- left after the fireworks explode also tract them within a mile of the beach No driving on the beach. count as litter, which must be picked between May 1 and Sept. 30. Emergency services have regu- up. lar beach patrols using all-terrain Fireworks are banned on Paw- No nudity. Nuff said. vehicles. Otherwise, vehicles are leys Island and at Huntington Beach banned from the local beaches. This State Park. Beach furniture. Chairs, Both wheels off the pave- includes golf carts. umbrellas, coolers and other items ment. Parking at or near beach ac- Horses are allowed on the coun- Don’t be caught napping. brought to the beach must be taken cesses gets scarce on summer week- ty beaches, but only between Nov. 1 Actually, naps are fine, but sleeping in after dark. On Georgetown Coun- ends. To avoid a ticket, vehicles and the last day of February. on the beach after dark is prohibit- ty beaches, items left overnight are parked on the roadside should be Pawleys Island says nay to hors- ed. The town of Pawleys Island bans considered abandoned. The unwritten rule | right of the wide line or off the un- es. sleepers from sunset to sunrise. On Pawleys Island, beach um- Not covered by lo- marked pavement. Georgetown County lets them set brellas and shades are only allowed cal law, but no less No parking is allowed within 15 a wake-up call for midnight. They on the beach during the day. important, is the need feet of a fire hydrant. then have to sleep elsewhere until People who forget to take their for people to fill in sunrise. belongings off the beach are likely to any holes they dig on Keep off the dunes. There find them tagged by the volunteers are local, state and federal laws that Surf fishing. On the county who monitor turtle nests. The tags the beach. They are protect the sand dunes and plants beaches it is illegal to bait or fish “in let people know that their items can dangerous to humans, that grow on them from distur- such a manner that will create an disrupt sea turtles making their way particularly at night, bance. They are testimony to the unsafe condition or hazard to bath- to the dunes to lay eggs. and nesting sea turtles. importance of this fragile ecosystem in protecting the property behind them. Most public beach accesses have walkways over the dunes. The wind and waves during the summer help rebuild the sand that washes away from the dune face dur- ing hurricanes and winter storms. The beach grasses and sea oats help catch the sand and hold it in place.

No littering. It needs to be said. There are trash containers at the public walkways if you can’t haul Fireworks-free zones. While your trash home. fireworks are allowed on most coun- Many beachgoers follow the ty beaches, some areas, such as Li- “plus-one rule” used by boaters. tchfield by the Sea are marked as

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By Grace Wells aging caused by the sun. The rules COASTAL OBSERVER require that the statement be fol- lowed by an asterisk and direct cus- While enjoying the heat of the tomers to see a “Skin Cancer/Skin summer, it is imperative to remem- Aging Alert” elsewhere on the label. ber the best practices to stay pro- “The sun makes UV light which tected from the sun. With thou- goes into the skin,” said Dr. William sands of Americans dying per year Epperson, a family medicine phy- of melanoma cancer, it’s critical sician at Tidelands Health. “The that people have the right protec- light causes damage to the DNA tion. To find out what’s effective, and causes cancer. The sunscreen you have to read the label on the is organic chemicals … these chem- sunscreen. While this process can icals absorb UV light when it hits be tedious, it is the best way of iden- the skin.” tifying the guidelines that the FDA Not only is the FDA changing put in place to ensure that the right the cosmetics of sunscreen packag- stuff is in the products that every- ing, it is also researching the safe- Tanya Ackerman/Coastal Observer one needs to use. ty of individual ingredients that are In 2014, the Sunscreen Innova- used in sunscreen, starting with any PABA (aminobenzoic acid) and date. If the product does not expire, tion Act was introduced. This act ingredients that cause irritation, trolamine salicylate are not GRASE. like most sunscreens, they will be provides an alternative process for rashes or reactions when exposed Sunscreen sold in the U.S. does not maintained for three years after the review of safety and effective- to the sun. They are also checking contain these two ingredients. distribution of the last labeled in ness of over the counter (OTC), in- if any of the ingredients that are ab- “The three main types of skin reliance on that testing. gredients active in sunscreen. sorbed into the skin cause cancer or cancer are: melanoma, squamous, With so many ingredients still The act requires that the FDA reproductive harm. and basal cell,” Epperson said. “A untested, the FDA will not have produce a list of every ingredient Manufacturers must also con- little under 8,000 Americans die anything new or concrete for Amer- that is in a product. It also covers duct studies to test the final formu- per year from melanoma cancer, icans until September. Until then, the dosage, formulas and label- la of each OTC sunscreen product while over 15,000 Americans die By the numbers | A consumers can follow regular ing. Earlier this year, the FDA pro- for effectiveness even if it’s already from squamous cancer per year.” common misconcep- guidelines for proper skin care. marketed under the system. The FDA established SPF 30+ posed their new regulations for tion is that SPF relates Epperson’s advice: “Avoid the sunscreen. The proposed rule classifies ac- as the maximum labeled value for sun as much as possible.” The agency lays out the condi- tive ingredients and other condi- sunscreen monograph products to time of solar expo- Spray sunscreen is superior to tions needed for a drug to be con- tions into categories. Category I are and in 2011 proposed raising the sure. For example, say- regular sunscreen, he said, since it sidered “generally recognized as ingredients proposed to be GRASE value to SPF 50+. But with the new ing an SPF of 15 allows covers the body better. safe and effective” (GRASE). Once and not misbranded. Category II data, the FDA is proposing that the 15 hours of sun time “It’ll last all day if you don’t a drug is considered to be GRASE it ingredients are not GRASE or are SPF level be raised to 60+ but no without sunburn. SPF sweat it off. If you apply it in the does not need to undergo the new misbranded. Category III means higher because of the additional is not directly related morning around 10 a.m. and then that additional data is needed. benefits of a broad spectrum. drug application process. The sun- to time of solar expo- again around 2 p.m. you should be screen innovation act required that n SPF 15 used to be the best and fine,” Epperson said. the final draft be effective last No- Studies found that of the 16 highest amount years ago, but sure but to amount of When out, try seeking shade vember, but that was delayed until ingredients in sunscreen, only two higher values provide great sun- exposure. such as beach umbrellas or trees. later this year. were GRASE: titanium dioxide and burn protection. SPF values only Wear protective clothing such as The new rules require identify- zinc oxide. indicate a sunscreen’s UVB protec- tightly woven fabric, long sleeve ing the ingredients in the sunscreen There are 12 other ingredients tion. T-shirts or pants, darker colored and putting them in alphabetical that have insufficient safety data The FDA recommends that us- clothes and in the hotter months order followed by “sunscreen” and to make a positive GRASE determi- ing SPF 15 at the least will get the try a beach cover up. the dosage form. This information nation and are classified as Catego- most protection out of sunscreen. Sunglasses can help protect will help consumers compare prod- ry III. The FDA is seeking addition- In addition, the FDA is propos- your eyes from UV rays that can ucts. al information from industry and ing the requirement of records of cause long term damage. New label rules also require the third parties to address any mis- final formula testing of sunscreen For more information on the products to display that they help information for these ingredients, products to be maintained for a new guidelines visit the CDC web- prevent skin cancer or early skin such as absorption data. year after the product’s expiration site, cdc.gov.

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GETTING AROUND Award-Winning Fine Dining Rules of the road Ocean View from Every Seat By Charles Swenson cross highways or roads with higher COASTAL OBSERVER speed limits at an intersection. They Wine Wednesday can only be operated during the day- All bottles half price A Murrells Inlet woman who time. took her golf cart to the beach at The law limits golf carts to travel Upstairs at the Garden City last summer returned within 4 miles of the registered ad- home with $500 in fines and a bill of dress. For gated communities, that Litchfi eld Inn having the cart towed away. distance is measured from the main One Norris Drive, Here’s where she went wrong: entrance. • She drove the cart at night; The town of Pawleys Island re- Litchfi eld Beach • She drove it on a sidewalk; duced that distance to 2 miles, an • The cart wasn’t registered; option offered by the state law. In Please Call for Dinner Reservations: (843) 235-8700 • The cart wasn’t insured; addition, Pawleys Island requires an Photo | • She was more than 4 miles annual registration. There are from her home. The fee is $10 and requires proof about 300 Until two years ago, there was of state registration and acknowl- golf carts no penalty for violations of the state edgment that the owner under- registered law on golf carts. stands the state law. with the That was a source of frustration Georgetown County also pro- town of for law enforcement, who often re- hibits driving golf carts on the Bike ceive complaints about golf carts the Neck path, which includes the Pawleys during the summer. bike lanes in Murrells Inlet. (Carts Island. Violations of the law now come are also banned from Business 17, with a fine of up to $100. which is a primary road.) That also Golf carts have to be registered includes the sidewalk along Waverly with the state Department of Mo- Road which connects the Bike the tor Vehicles. That requires proof of Neck route with the North Causeway ownership and insurance and a $5 to Pawleys Island. fee. The permit is good for five years, There is one exception. The bike unless the ownership changes. path along Willbrook Boulevard Only licensed drivers 16 or older is open to golf carts. The path was can operate golf carts. They need to originally built by the Litchfield Co. have their license with them along to provide additional access to Li- with proof of registration and insur- tchfield by the Sea from its nearby ance, just like drivers of a motor ve- developments. hicle. It remains open to golf carts even Golf carts can only be operated though it connects with the county’s on secondary roads where the speed Bike the Neck path along Kings Riv- limit is 35 mph or less. They can er Road and Highway 17.

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The fog may creep in on little cat feet, but at dusk the beach belongs to the dogs. Or so they think. Local leash laws allow dogs to be under voice command in the eve- ning and early morning. The town of Pawleys Island changed its leash law in 2018 to al- low dogs to be under voice control of their owners from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. from May through September. That brought the town into line with Georgetown County’s leash law, which allows dogs on the beach to be off the leash from 7 p.m. to 9 a.m. as long as they are under voice control. A dog owner was cited earlier this year when her unleashed dog attacked another dog that was being walked by its owners on Pawleys Is- land. Even though the woman’s dog was allowed to be off its leash, the woman didn’t have control over it, police said. The local laws are at odds with state law that prohibits owners from allowing dogs to run at large when off property they own or rent. The Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer state law doesn’t allow for voice con- trol; a dog is “at large” if not physi- and owners who don’t clean up pet cally restrained. waste because their dogs are on the Dogs must be on a leash at all move. times at Huntington Beach State The town ordinance requires Park. State law says the leash must owners to clean up any waste. When be no longer than 6 feet. dogs are on a leash, it must be no The conflict with state law led longer than 20 feet. Photo | Pawleys Island to do away with the There is a $50 minimum penalty While al- voice control option in 2009. Town for violations. lowed on n Council restored it after hearing the beach, from residents and property owners Along with a leash, owners who said the stricter leash law kept should bring plenty of fresh water dogs must them from playing with their dogs in when taking their dog to the beach be on the surf. for more than a walk. a leash The town had tried to balance Drinking salt water causes dehy- during the tradition with safety concerns and, dration and will lead to diarrhea and day. with the 2009 leash law, allowed vomiting. dogs to be off the leash in the surf Vets also recommend dogs with zone. light-colored or thin coats and those That was abolished because that have been shaved be kept in the people were just walking their dogs shade. Some people use sunscreen, along the water’s edge. but the dogs can lick that off. In relaxing the leash law, Town And remember that the hot sand Hours: Monday - Friday 9 - 6, Saturday 9 - 1 Council members acknowledged that burns your feet also burns the concerns, such as dogs jumping on sensitive skin on the pads of a dog’s 1061 North Fraser Street, Georgetown, SC or bothering people on the beach paws. in The Medicine Shoppe

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By Charles Swenson COASTAL OBSERVER

People usually want to know what it costs. Ben Marlow won’t say. Photos | Ben Marlow, “It’s best left a secret,” he said. left, upgraded to a bet- It’s enough to know that the fire- ter quality of fireworks works that dance across the night that also cut down on sky above Pawleys Creek on the debris. At right, over- Fourth of July are free for those who know where to look. the-counter fireworks This year, with no public displays explode over the beach in Murrells Inlet and Georgetown on at North Litchfield. July 4, there will be that many more eyes on the sky over Marlow’s dock. He said people should be able to see the display while maintaining their social distance. Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer What started with a couple of neighbors shooting off fireworks has paper added for retail store display The town of Pawleys Island grown over the last decade into the that winds up as trash. Nor are there bans fireworks because of the risk kind of pyrotechnic show that in- the plastic parts that come with of house fires. The last legal display spires people to make sure they’re over-the-counter fireworks thatwas on Dec. 31, 1999. Residents and in the area about 9:15 or 9:30 p.m. on wind up as litter on the beach after vacationers now look to the main- July 4. the Fourth. land, to the Marlow dock between “I’ll get texts saying, ‘are you Another difference is that Mar- the two causeways to the island, for shooting fireworks this year? What low can rely on the timing of the fire- a Fourth of July show. time?’” Marlow said. “Which is works he buys, which enables him to There have been few disappoint- good because you don’t have people create a uniform display. ments over the years. shooting a bunch of trash into the “One of the first years, with “Whenever I see something with creek.” smaller stuff, it went on about 30 the fireworks that doesn’t go in sync, He likes the fact that it has be- minutes,” he said. nobody else notices,” Marlow said. come a tradition. “Now that we’ve kind of got it Marlow, an investigator with the It was a former neighbor, the late down pat it’s 12 to 15 minutes.” Georgetown County Sheriff’s Office Bob Moran, who first lit the fuse. “He It helps that he can launch them and owner of Pawleys Kayaks, as- started shooting quality fireworks remotely. He used to light them by sembles the devices and fuses in the on the Fourth of July,” Marlow said. hand. launch racks with his youngest son The families eventually combined “The first year after we really got Wheeler. their efforts. into it, we did that with probably 40 “He’s sort of the apprentice,” “When we started getting a band or 50 different items. After it was Marlow said. is when it really took off,” he said. over, Molly said ‘what did you think On the day, friends arrive in the The evening became a private of the fireworks?’ And I said, ‘I didn’t afternoon to put the racks on the party for family and friends. see any of them,’” Marlow recalled. dock. The fireworks are consumer- “We were lighting and ducking, ba- Just before dark, he can count on grade, but Marlow has built racks to sically.” the wind dying down. No one is al- launch them from the metal roof of It takes him about two days to as- lowed on the dock during the show. his creek dock. semble the show. He keeps a list, but If all goes as planned, there will They are a step up from what’s many of the devices carry over from be a little less overlap between the sold in a fireworks store. year to year. displays. “In a store, you end up with “I was really happy with it last That will give the audience, quantity versus quality. What we do year,” Marlow said on the eve of last wherever they are, a better chance to now is, we’ve gone with a great deal summer’s display. “If we come close appreciate the effects. of quality – and added significantly to last year, I think it will be spot- “When I was a kid, I thought to the quantity,” Marlow said. on because we’ve got larger, differ- fireworks were a tremendous waste Buying the higher-end devices ent effects. It makes a difference for of money,” Marlow said. “But you means there is none of the excess Tanya Ackerman/Coastal Observer people on the island, too.” didn’t buy the good stuff.” Summer treasures

843-237-2948 The Hammock Shops 10880 Ocean Hwy., Pawleys Island whitmirefi nejewelry.com SINCE 1975 COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 Beaches 9 NIGHT LIFE | Brookgreen Gardens Exhibit rises as the sun sets

By Chris Sokoloski his eyes was really inspirational for COASTAL OBSERVER all is us.” “Fields of Light” fills the entire Brookgreen Gardens is currently Arboretum from near the Christ- lit up with thousands of lights, and mas tree from Nights of a Thou- it’s not even December. sand Candles to the road. More than “Southern Light,” an exhibit by 13,000 lights sway with the wind and Photos by Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer world-renowned light sculpture change colors, as do the fiber optic artist Bruce Munro, features seven strings along the ground. ing its American debut. multiple times will be asked to re- installations of varying sizes and An installation of 10 water tow- Kiniry said “Southern Light” is turn to the visitors center and enter shapes, connected by thousands of ers surrounds a pond near “The Vi- contemplative and spiritual. again. miles of fiber optic cables. sionaries” sculpture of Archer and “That seems like the right mes- “The nice thing about it being Page Kiniry, Brookgreen’s presi- Anna Hyatt Huntington. Each tower sage for right now,” she added. outside is that we can socially dis- dent, called the exhibit “phenom- is constructed of dozens of plastic Photos | Munro hopes the exhibit brings a tance because we have so much enal.” bottles similar to those you would The sun goes down little light and joy into people’s lives. space,” Kiniry said. “It’s a place to be “We’re really honored to be a part find filled with soda at a supermar- behind the “Pegasus” “Art is a great healer … It heals able to spread out. Not necessarily of this,” Kiniry said. “It enhances the ket. fountain, above, and the spirit,” he said. “We need to be socialize, but get out.” grounds in a way that will, like many When lit, the reflection in the the lights come up on easier on ourselves. There is going to “Southern Light” is a ticketed of the exhibits we try to do, intro- pond makes it look like there are 20 Munro’s “Time and be a positive future.” event, like Nights of a Thousand duce new people to Brookgreen and towers. “Southern Light” is the only Candles. However, tickets do not to the gardens and create a different Live Oak Alleé is filled with 600 Again.” Below, water Munro exhibit on the East Coast of have to be purchased for a specific way of connecting with nature.” fireflies, each made up of 25 fiber towers glow around the United States in 2020. It is on date. Munro visited Brookgreen while optic strings, emerging from the the sculpture “The display Wednesdays through Satur- Tickets are for $25 for adults and deciding whether it was the right ground under the trees. The fiber Visionaries,” a tribute to days until Sept. 12, from 8-11 p.m. $15 children 4-12. Members pay $20 place for an exhibit. optic cables connecting the fireflies Brookgreen’s founders. In order to maintain social dis- for adults and $12 for children. “I’ve never been in a place so in- also light up. tancing, Brookgreen is allowing Brookgreen is asking that visi- vested in the arts,” he said. “I always A half-moon shaped installa- ticket holders into the exhibit area tors purchase tickets in advance to get ideas walking around gardens tion of steel lilies called “Time and in small groups and has designated limit contact with volunteers at the and museums.” Again” sits between the “Fountain of some paths as one-way. Visitors who ticket booths. “Bruce selects you,” Kiniry said. the Muses” and “Pegasus.” It is mak- want to walk through the exhibit For tickets go to brookgreen.org. “He gets inspired by the location and he has to be inspired to come.” The exhibit includes two instal- lations that Munro created specifi- cally for Brookgreen. “Okonjima’s Choral Society” features 2,000 frogs and is situated behind the back wall of the gardens. The frogs are actually European road markers with lights that fade and flicker. Accompanying the in- stallation are the songs of frogs re- corded in Okonjima National Park in Namibia. “The Hive” features 1,458 lights inside the open brickwork of a bell tower. They are accompanied by the sound of buzzing bees. Munro called the bell tower a “hidden gem.” “My brain goes into overdrive when I find places like that,” Munro said. “He’s been amazing to work with,” Kiniry said. “Seeing it through add some sparkle to her life

843-237-2948 The Hammock Shops 10880 Ocean Hwy., Pawleys Island whitmirefi nejewelry.com SINCE 1975 COASTAL OBSERVER 10 Beaches Summer 2020 WILDLIFE | Sea turtles The doctor will see you now

Innovative design hind the glass for a “turtle talk” for the public. They discuss their work at S.C. Aquarium and their patients, and take ques- tions. also allows visitors “As much as we like working with the animals, we’re kind of behind to see doctors work the scenes a lot,” Ranly said. “That’s such a great way to engage with the public. You realize how much they By Chris Sokoloski don’t even know about what we do COASTAL OBSERVER here until you get to teach them all It started with a kiddie pool from of those things.” Kmart. There are always a lot of great Now, 20 years later, the South questions, she added. Carolina Aquarium’s sea turtle hos- “What we’re doing is important pital is a state-of-the-art facility with but if we’re not helping with the big a new name that is attracting repre- picture of educating people, saving sentatives from aquariums and zoos as many turtles as we do every year from around the world. can’t have as much of an impact,” “It’s been really, really rewarding Ranly said. and amazing,” said Melissa Ranly, The turtles brought to the care manager of the Sea Turtle Care Cen- center get a name. Recent years have ter in Charleston. “It’s awesome to featured characters from the Harry have a space that’s designed to fit Photos by Chris Sokoloski/Coastal Observer Potter books and “The Lion King.” your needs.” This year’s rescues are named after Whitney Daniel, a veterinary as- which factored into the design of the Charleston streets in honor of the sistant, remembers when the hos- care center. Ranly said it is part of a city’s 350th anniversary. pital was located in the aquarium’s global movement among aquariums Sometimes staff will deviate windowless basement and staff and zoos to turn walls into windows. from the naming theme. A turtle would treat turtles in the hallway “It’s something I love,” Ranly that arrived from Garden City on or a closet. Access to the area by said. “We’re just showing them the Halloween last year was named Mi- the public was limited to small tour amount of care that we provide.” chael Myers after the movie charac- groups. The care center’s operating and ter. It was bleeding profusely from “You kind of get used to it and CAT scan rooms both have windows its neck. that newness has worn off,” Daniel which allow visitors to watch turtles Since the aquarium began a tur- said. “But you still feel very grateful being treated. The windows are tint- tle hospital in 2000, nearly 300 of for it.” ed so staff are not distracted by the the creatures have been saved. How The $2.5 million care center people on the other side. Ranly will long a turtle stays in the care center opened in 2017 as an exhibit on the often have one of her staff stand out- we wouldn’t even dream of on these depends on how severe the injuries first floor of the aquarium. It features side the window to describe what is animals to understand how to better are when they are rescued. various sized tanks and two treat- going on and answer questions. treat them.” “It’s really rewarding,” Ranly ment rooms for the turtles behind “They’re there to interpret what’s The care center is also breaking said. “Long, hard hours and it’s sad glass panels, along with interactive happening,” Ranly said. new ground on the treatment of in- sometimes seeing the injuries and exhibits, life-sized turtle replicas The CAT scan has changed the jured turtles. dealing with it when you lose a pa- and animatronic turtles that chil- way the hospital does medicine, In the last few months, Shane Photos | tient, but it’s so rewarding to get dren can help diagnose and treat. Ranly added. Boylan, the aquarium’s veterinar- Sea turtles that re- those animals back out into the wild “Getting it so every person who “It’s something that people don’t ian, transplanted stem cells into two ceived treatment at and know that they can become enters our building can experience really ever get to see,” Ranly said. injured sea turtles. Without the ex- the aquarium recover part of the breeding population that it is huge,” Ranly said. “You can read “A lot of people don’t fathom that perimental surgery, it was unlikely keeps these animals around for our about it, or see stories about turtle sea turtles and fish and birds get CT either turtle would recover enough in specially-designed grandkids and their grandkids.” injuries, but actually seeing it up scans as well.” to be released into the wild. tanks. Visitors can n close and personal makes the big- The CAT scan has improved the Boylan has also done brain sur- track their progress in The aquarium overlooks the gest impact.” level of care the hospital can pro- gery and cataract surgery on injured person and online. Charleston Harbor on the east end The basement of the aquarium is vide, Daniel said. turtles. of Calhoun Street, 73 miles south of now used as an intensive care unit “Without seeing it, they don’t re- The care center is so state-of-the- Pawleys Island. Tickets must be or- for the most critical patients. It is no alize how much really goes into it,” art that the aquarium hosted the an- dered online. The cost is $29.95 for longer open to the public. Daniel said. “We’re a fully function- nual International Sea Turtle Sym- adults and $22.95 for children 3 to 12. Part of the mission of the aquar- ing hospital with equipment like posium in February 2019. For more information go to ium is to make areas more public, this. We’re doing diagnostics that Twice a day, the staff gathers be- scaquarium.org.

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By Chris Sokoloski owned by The Nature Conservancy, COASTAL OBSERVER which leases it to the refuge to man- age the public use. More than 850 million acres in Sasser posts pictures of the trash the United States has been protect- on social media in the hopes of edu- ed from development in the last 117 cating people. years thanks to the country’s Na- Another project on the island tional Wildlife Refuge System. was building and installing bluebird There are eight refuges in boxes to keep the birds from South Carolina, including the nesting in the trees and tak- Waccamaw National Wildlife ing up space needed by the Refuge, which was estab- red-cockaded woodpeckers, lished in 1997 and is located which are an endangered in Georgetown, Horry and species. Marion counties. “It keeps the bluebirds The refuge has some of from competing with the Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer the most diverse wetlands on [woodpeckers] for cav- the East Coast, including tid- ity tress,” Sasser said. “The al emergent, forested and up- premise is, you can give them land forests. The freshwater another option.” Tips on turtles wetlands created by the Wac- The National Wildlife camaw and Great Pee Dee Refuge System was created The number of sea turtle nests Pick up trash | Plastics have rivers are some of the more to conserve, manage and recorded in South Carolina last year emerged as a new threat in recent unique in North America. in some cases, restore, fish, was the highest ever. There were 39 years. Turtles mistake bags for the Refuge habitats support more wildlife and plants and their nests on Pawleys Island. jellyfish that are a part of their diet. A than 400 species. The area habitats. Despite the record, only one loggerhead that stranded at Pawleys has the highest density of The first refuge, Pelican of every 1,000 sea turtle eggs that Island a few years ago had “an im- nesting swallow-tailed kites, Island National Wildlife Ref- hatch will survive into adulthood. pressively large amount of plastic” which the state has deemed uge in Florida, was created by Volunteers from S.C. United Turtle in its system, a biologist said. Don’t endangered. a presidential executive order Enthusiasts (SCUTE) help improve leave plastics behind on the beach. Two things that refuge in 1903. However, preserva- those odds by monitoring nests. Better yet, avoid single-use bags. manager Craig Sasser, his tion efforts go farther back. They recorded 357 nests last year, staff and volunteers are al- In 1864, the federal gov- up from 65 in 2018. Do not disturb | If you come ways battling are feral hogs ernment gave Yosemite Val- The group has been at work for upon a nesting turtle or a hatching and trash. ley to California, which later 30 years, which is about the time it nest, keep your distance. Don’t use Feral hogs know no gave it back. In 1869, Congress takes for female hatchlings to ma- flashlights to get a better view or boundaries when they’re Tanya Ackerman/Coastal Observer voted to protect the Pribilof ture and lay their eggs. take flash photos. The lights disori- searching for food. Island in Alaska. In 1872, Yellow- Here are some ways ent the turtles. It is a vi- “They just go in and blow the stone National Park was established to help ensure sea tur- olation of federal law to place up,” Sasser said. “It looks like a in Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. tles continue to thrive Where to harass or interfere with bombing range when they’re done.” The Waccamaw National Wild- on our beaches: watch | Volunteers sea turtles. One of the hogs that was caught life Refuge is located on Highway from SCUTE conduct last summer had only three legs. All Preserved | 701 near the Georgetown County/ Flip the switch | inventories of nests Fill in holes | Even of the hogs are donated to a man Waccamaw National Horry County border. The property Turn lights off near after they hatch. It’s a small holes dug on the with a processing plant in Johnson- Wildlife Refuge’s acqui- is open daily from sunrise to sun- the beach from May chance to learn more beach can trap hatch- ville. sition boundary is close set to visitors and has an education through October, and lings, causing them to Trash on Sandy Island has been center with maps, artifacts, histori- about sea turtles. to 55,000 acres. The die in the sun. Some close blinds and drapes Times are posted on an ongoing issue for decades. cal information and displays. The on windows that can be holes could trap an “Before the county provided refuge itself is nearly education center is open Monday seen from the beach. the group’s Facebook adult turtle. waste services [residents] just went 29,000 acres. Above, through Friday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Hatchlings emerge at page. out in the woods and left it,” Sasser a swallow-tailed kite Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. night and are attracted Don’t leave stuff | said. soars over the refuge. Although camping is prohibited, to the sea by the moon- Chairs, umbrellas and Some of the trash found in the visitors can boat, canoe, kayak, fish, light on the water. Studies show others items left overnight on the dunes near the beach on the south hike, picnic, or just take pictures. artificial light causes them to al- beach can deter adult turtles from end is discarded by mainland resi- For more information go to fsw. ter course and can keep them from nesting and impede hatchlings as dents who travel to the island to gov/refuge/waccamaw or call 843- reaching the water. they try to reach the sea. hang out and party. The beach is 527-8069.

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Achieve Fitness Disciplines Tanya Ackerman/Coastal Observer Into the wild | A boardwalk takes visitors into the salt marsh. Strength, Endurance, Flexibility, Balance, Physical Rehabilitation The New Wealth Is Health WILDLIFE | Huntington Beach State Park

amazing addition,” Magers said. Visitors will once again be able observe ★ Sport Specifi c Training Where history live animals and get close to them in the touch-tank. There will also be a bird ex- hibit. ★ Injury Rehabilitation meets nature Volunteers in the nature center can also provide a list of bird species for people who By Grace Wells would like to find them in their natural ★ Pilates COASTAL OBSERVER habitat around the park. “We’ll be doing family based programs A walk through Huntington Beach and nature based programs,” park manager ★ Strength/Weight Training State Park is a journey through nature and Brenda Magers said. “People can come and history. explore the environments, get in the ocean ★ The park, which comprises 2,500 acres ... [and take] classes with educational pro- Circuit of beach, marsh and forest, gives visitors grams.” an opportunity to explore wildlife, a castle Some programs have an additional fee ★ and a nature center full of educational dis- in addition to park admission. Gyrokinesis Yoga plays. Guests who want to cool off, work on Before it was a state park, the property their tan or take a walk can head to the ★ Barre Foundation was owned by Archer and Anna Hunting- park’s three-mile long beach. Hiking, bik- ton, the founders of Brookgreen Gardens. ing and picnicking are also options while The couple built Atalaya castle to live in visiting. ★ Small Classes and as a place for Anna, who suffered from Traveling in an RV? The state park has tuberculosis, to work on her sculptures. 173 campsites with hookups for water and The structure is still standing and gives electricity. Certifi ed Highly Qualifi ed Personal Training Center visitors a chance to see 30 rooms, two open Huntington Beach State Park is located inner courtyards, a horse stable, dog ken- on Highway 17 between Pawleys Island and Intimate Setting with Excellent Equipment nel, bear pen, a watch tower and Anna’s in- Murrells Inlet. It is open daily from 6 a.m. door and outdoor studios. to 10 p.m. Atalaya is open from 9 a.m. to 5 Competitive Hourly Rates without Membership Fees A 45-minute audio tour is also available p.m. for people interested in more in-depth in- Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for se- Undivided Attention formation. niors, $4 for ages 6-15 and free for ages 5 or The park is considered to be one of the younger. Atalaya admission is $2 per per- best places in South Carolina to go bird son ages 6 and up; free for children 5 and watching. There have been more than 300 under. different species spotted within the park. Discounted park passports can be One The best spots for seasonal bird watching bought online or at Georgetown County are along the causeway, the jetty and, of library branches for seniors (65 and up), course, the beach. residents who are legally blind or 100 per- on The nature center, a favorite for long- cent disabled, and active members of the time park guests, especially for young chil- S.C. National Guard. One dren, was destroyed by lightning in July Park admissions can be purchased on- 2016. line to reduce contact with park staff. Just 17-B Professional Lane Pawleys Island However, a new nature center is expect- bring the receipt to the entry gate. ed to open by the end of the summer. For more information, call 843-237- 843-235-3110 | Facebook: Winyah Fitness “The nature center is going to be an 4440 or visit huntingtonbeachsp.com. Alan Bremner 843-543-5660 | Steele Bremner 843-543-2160

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By Joshua Ford we were able to get them out.” FOR THE OBSERVER The takeaway from these events is the importance of knowing what One moment Thomas “T.C.” to do in rip current situations. Diggs and his three sons were stand- “You look for the change in that ing in shallow water on a sandbar texture in the ocean because you can north of Pawleys Pier. The next mo- just see how that rip sucks out the ment, they were swept into deep wa- sea,” Brown said. “It will be a differ- ter by a rip current. ent texture than maybe 25 yards over “It happened so quickly,” Diggs … so you steer clear of that. If you’re said. out there in it, first rule is to not A family afternoon on the beach panic and you should swim parallel turned into a nightmare. to the beach. He was trying to fight Midway Fire and Rescue handled it, but you can’t beat them, trust me. 12 calls for swimmers in distress last They’re going get you.” year, seven during the summer. Nugent said it is also important There were three drownings, accord- to keep an eye on kids when they ing to Fire Marshal Mark Nugent. are swimming in the ocean. “That Rip currents are the leading means an adult that’s in charge of cause of water rescues. The fast- watching children in the water,” he moving currents flow away from the said. “You’re not on the phone, not beach and can catch swimmers un- listening to music, reading, having aware. lunch, you are watching the kids.” The Diggs family was one of two He also advised people to know that were caught in a rip current on their location to help direct first re- a Sunday afternoon last summer. sponders if they need help. “It helps At North Litchfield, a man and his Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer us so much and it just saves more grandson were rescued by a father time than to say, ‘Oh I’m on Litch- and daughter who had gone to the field Beach,’” Nugent said. beach after church to surf. n Diggs was in water about chest- This summer, Midway will be deep. His sons were a little closer to able to deploy its new ladder truck shore. Breaking the grip for water rescues. The 137-foot lad- “The rip current sucked us out der has a thermal imaging camera at so that within a matter of seconds, I the top. was underneath the water, meaning Staying calm is the first step toward getting back to shore “If you get a rough water day my head was below the water, and it where we can’t even put a boat in, sucked the kids all the way out to me Huck Ihnat. child who then screamed for help. that thermal camera allows us to put where they couldn’t even touch the “Everybody out there was a surf- The Browns paddled out to them. that ladder up and get a heat signa- ground,” Diggs said. er and it wasn’t about staying calm “I’ve done some lifesaving work ture,” Nugent said. They are all swimmers, but only or thoughts about doing anything,” on the beach before in my life so I But nothing beats prevention. Diggs and his oldest son, T.J., 13, re- Benston said. “It was just second na- was able to get him up on my board, “The biggest thing that every- mained calm. ture.” but he couldn’t even hold on,” body has to realize is how exhaust- “I knew what to do in that situa- What to do | The group came back to shore, Brown said. ing the water can become so quickly. tion,” T.J. said. “I thought that I was You can spot a rip and estimate that from the time the His daughter grabbed the child, If you’re fighting it, you’re never go- going to be OK, but was scared for current by the change rip began, to Diggs and his boys be- who they later learned was 7. They ing to win. The key to everything is my brothers and dad.” of the texture in the ing brought back was about 10 min- swam parallel to the beach to get out relaxing,” Benston said. “That’s the He made it back to shore and got utes. of the current. key to it: you can’t fight the rip cur- help. water. If caught in a Only hours earlier, Harold “We were finally able to make rent, you just have to let it kind of Diggs stayed with Noah and rip current, first swim Brown, a psychotherapist, and his some progress and move inward,” take you and use your strength to Tristan, both 10, who were initially parallel to the beach to daughter Margaret Kennedy, 14, ar- Brown said. stay floating and relaxed.” panicked but able to tread water and calm water, then back rived at North Litchfield after a ser- They were able to get back to Surfers regularly make rescues then float on their backs until help to shore. Above, T.C. vice at Pawleys Island Community the beach where they saw the man’s on area beaches. This was Margaret arrived. It came from a group of surf- Diggs with his sons Church. Brown noticed an older daughter. The man collapsed upon Kennedy’s first rescue. She plans to ers. Tristan, left, and Noah. man and a child in the water about reaching shore. get certified in lifesaving. “We had been surfing all day and 75 yards away. “I was trying to get a pulse “It ended well,” Brown said. “I’m we realized that something wasn’t He knew something was wrong. and I couldn’t get one at first and I just grateful that we were there. quite right,” said Scott Benston, “I can recognize a rip when I thought I had to do CPR, but he was [Margaret] was telling me that night owner of Surf the Earth. “So every- see one,” Brown said. “There was a good,” Brown said. “We were all safe when we were going to bed, ‘You body in the group took off running change in color and texture of the and everybody was good. It was un- know dad, those people probably toward the ocean with our boards.” water.” fortunate because if we hadn’t been wouldn’t have made it if we weren’t With him were his son Cade Ben- They saw the man go under a there, surely he would’ve been lost. there surfing’ and I was like, ‘no kid- ston, Chad Jones, James Propps and couple of times, and yelled out to the The daughter was very grateful that ding.’ We were there for a reason.”

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LANDMARKS | Old Town Hall Rising above it all

Then and now | The building as it looked in 1987, above. The interior, below, ready for the opening exhibit by local artists.

Photos by Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer

By Charles Swenson tee member. town offices into a portable build- Hall with the carpenters earlier this COASTAL OBSERVER There is new landscaping around ing. Concern that repairs to Town spring. the building, designed by Toni Rick- Hall would require that the building “There was some concern. Could Pawleys Island’s old Town Hall er, an island resident and gardener be raised to meet federal flood regu- art be hung in here?” Miller said. has seen its share of disasters since at Brookgreen Gardens who served lations prompted the Town Coun- “Artists are very resourceful.” it was created out of a vacant beach on the committee. On the April cil to build a new facility. It opened By limiting the exhibit to smaller rental office in 1988, the year before weekend that should have seen art- in January 2019 across the North works, Miller estimated each of the Hurricane Hugo struck. ists gathering for the show, she was Causeway from the old Town Hall. 60 alliance members could hang two Plans to reopen the building this cutting back the flowering plants in The committee considered a pieces. spring fell victim to the coronavi- the hanging baskets along the porch. range of uses for the building. It fo- “We think it’s a very historic mo- rus outbreak. That was after a fall “It’s been a labor of love for all of cused on history and environmental ment. We’re glad to be part of it,” opening was delayed by Hurricane us,” Ricker said. education. But the group also want- Miller said. Dorian, which damaged repairs to The plants, which include dwarf ed to find a way to make the building The town doesn’t allow retail the interior completed after Hurri- red tips, lantana, cordgrass and day self-sustaining. It estimated the an- sales, but the arts alliance plans cane Matthew in 2016. lilies, are all salt tolerant, she said. nual cost of maintaining the build- to give the Town Hall committee a “It completely ruined our interi- They are also low maintenance. ing between $5,000 and $8,000. commission on any works from the or,” said George Raftelis, who led an “Nothing is ever zero mainte- The town got $16,000 from insur- exhibit that are sold to help main- ad hoc committee to find a new life nance,” Ricker added. ance after Dorian. After making re- tain the building. Sales will be made for the old Town Hall. Cedars on the south side of the pairs, it had $8,745 left, which Town online. Aside from that, the building has building were trimmed and new Council gave to the committee. “We want to do our part as well,” never looked better. It is now ready benches were installed facing the “Our intention is to get dona- Miller said. “They’ve given us this to host an exhibit by the Waccamaw creek. tions in the future,” Raftelis said. opportunity.” Neck Arts Alliance that will run Ricker happened to have an extra “This is a work in progress.” After the inaugural exhibit, the through the summer. live oak sapling, which she added to The interior was cleaned up. Al- committee will get input from the The outside has a new coat of the landscape. “Some people might though the insulation and drywall participants on future events, Rafte- paint on three sides. The south wall take umbrage, but that won’t be an was removed, the framing and the lis said. features a mural by April Bensch. issue for 20 or 40 years,” she said. exposed siding were repainted. Elec- The committee talked about dis- The creek scene appears to meander The Town Hall was the idea of trical outlets were raised in anticipa- plays on island history and natural into the marsh along Pawleys Creek, Jack Bland, who thought the 3-year- tion of future storms. history, such as sea turtles. which comes up to the edge of the old municipality needed a space of Raftelis said he was assured that But like other things on Pawleys lot. its own. With a couple of additions “artists like the rustic look.” Island, the old Town Hall will re- “We’ve had a lot of positive com- over the years, the building has Vida Miller, the owner of the main low key. ments,” said Betsy Altman, owner of about 600 square feet. Gray Man Gallery and founder of the “I think it will be a very casual Pawleys Island Realty and a commit- Hurricane Matthew forced the arts alliance, was in the old Town meeting spot,” Altman said. COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 Beaches 15 ESSENTIALS | Iced tea How sweet it is

By Margaret Lamb makes a distinction: “My for ‘light ice.’ ” sweet tea in the morning with break- FOR THE OBSERVER mother brewed tea, just Wilson, who always fast food. not Southern sweet tea. fills her glass to the “It’s sort of like wine,” Quigley No Southern hostess would dare Where I come from, brim with ice and then said. “Whether you like red or white, entertain guests without a pitcher of sweet tea wouldn’t be pours the tea over the you drink one regardless of what’s sweet tea on the sideboard, the front considered sweet tea ice, said serving sweet on your plate, and the same goes for porch or the kitchen table. And nei- in the South,” said tea is just part of be- tea.” ther would a Southern eatery. Austin, who drinks ing Southern. “You Tea consumption definitely ta- The Southern nectar has washed tea and prefers Earl have to offer sweet pers off at night at both restaurants. down many a ham biscuit and fried Grey, sweetened with tea. It’s truly part of “We do way more business at chicken liver, serving as a sweet al- a simple syrup and the South. People lunch than in the evening,” Quigley ternative for mourners and cele- flavored with mint. love it. You just can’t said. “A lot of people don’t drink it at brants alike when a stiff drink wasn’t Down the road get good sweet tea up night because of caffeine, and peo- available. at Rustic Table and there.” ple also switch to beer or wine.” Sweet tea – a concoction of wa- Bistro 217, co-owner Josh Quigley, Quigley grew up in Texas, where ter, tea and lots of sugar – is defi- Anne Hardee and her owner of Quigley’s his family drank unsweetened tea. nitely a Southern thing, and disap- longtime server Anita Pint and Plate in Li- “Oddly enough, they don’t pointment can brew when sweet tea Wilson said their clien- tchfield and Bisqit at sweeten it,” he said. “My mom would doesn’t meet expectations. Order tele is divided. the Hammock Shops, make sun tea by putting tea bags in sweet tea in some restaurants above “Half and half is defi- and a self-described odd a jar and warming the liquid in the the Mason Dixon line, and it’s likely nitely the tea of choice at ball because he drinks un- sun. I wasn’t super aware of tea un- to be served in a can. In turn, our Bistro 217, while Rustic Table sweetened tea, said his res- til I moved to the South. Here it also neighbors to the north turn up their diners prefer sweet tea because taurants definitely sell more seems to double as a soda substi- noses at the Southern version, gar- of the menu, Hardee said. sweet tea. tute.” nished with lemon and sweetened “Sweet tea definitely goes with “A lot of people do half and half, Quigley has a theory. with sugar to a fare thee well. the Rustic Table menu, which serves and the weird thing is a lot of people “The whole sweet tea thing is Hence the great compromise: more comfort food,” Hardee said. order unsweetened tea and then similar to fried food,” he said. “Fry- sweet and unsweetened tea on Hardee, who is from Mount put in their own amount of sugar,” ing food at home is hard and kind of menus and often poured at the table Pleasant and does not drink tea, said he said. “We brew it every morning, messy. It could be a similar dynamic to make “half and half.” Still, the both restaurants brew their tea fresh and serve it in a pint glass. We have with sweet tea. It’s not messy, but pitcher usually tips more toward daily and “always make sure we put no complaints from our customers.” it’s just something special to order sweet tea, area restaurateurs say. sugar in it when it’s still hot.” In fact, at Bisqit, diners drink when you’re out.” Annette Austin, owner of Ocean After all, any devoted sweet tea One and Cabana Cafe at the Litch- drinker knows that adding sugar to field Inn, said sweet tea is the more cold tea is a lost cause. popular, followed by half and half. “You just can’t sweeten tea with Guests who are undecided have a sugar when it’s cold; the sugar just The table wine of the South third option: flavored tea. won’t dissolve,” said Wilson, a Geor- “We’re selling a lot more flavored gia native who grew up drinking The food historian John Egerton says bring tea,” Austin said. “Mango and peach sweet tea. the water to a rolling boil. The women of Prince are both popular. The fruit flavor Some customers even George Winyah Episcopal Church say barely adds a touch of sweetness, but with- specify the amount of boiling. out all the sugar. It’s a nice alterna- ice they want. Egerton uses a saucepan. The church wom- tive.” “I have a reg- en, in “Plantation Tours and Tastes,” recom- Austin uses a peach syrup and ular customer mend a microwave. “The making of sweet tea fresh mangoes for the flavored teas who orders cannot be taken lightly,” they advise. and said she expects to sell more sweet tea But here’s where they agree: Tea should be flavored tea at her newly-opened with seven brewed, not stewed. A teaspoon of tea – equal to Harvest Restaurant at Brookgreen cubes of ice – one bag – for every cup of water. Brew for five Gardens. no more, no minutes. As a child growing up on Long Is- less,” she said. Another point of agreement: add sugar to land, Austin drank sweet tea, but she “Other will ask taste.

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Pawleys Island | Murrells Inlet | Litchfield Beach Garden City | Georgetown | Andrews

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HammockCoastSC.com INSIDE THIS SECTION Traditions: A family retreat for six generations ...... Page 18 Weather: Hurricanes we have known ...... Page 23 Books: Remembering Pawleys as it was ...... Page 28 BeachesSummer 2020

PAWLEYS ISLAND | Rebuilding the beach A longer walk to the ocean

By Charles Swenson COASTAL OBSERVER

The beach at the best of times is a place of calm. Yet it is also a dynamic system. One result is the beach ero- sion that left houses on the south end of Pawleys Island vulnerable to storms as the dunes disappeared. Another is that when sand is pumped to the beach from 3 miles offshore, the dark mud in the slurry washes out and the sand bleaches clean in the sun. The coarse shell mixes with the fine sand. The steep edge of the man-made beach finds its own gentle contour. The town of Pawleys Island com- pleted a project this winter that placed 1.1 million cubic yards of offshore sand on about 3 miles of beach, starting at the south end and ending north of Paw- leys Pier. It was the result of 20 years of planning and searching for funds. Although planning began with the Army Corps of Engineers, the town ultimately decided to undertake the Continued on Page 24

Up and over | Sand fence marks the route to the beach over a new dune on the south end of Pawleys Island.

Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 18 Beaches TRADITIONS | The Gibbes Cottage Family affair

After six generations, a family’s endless summer is nearing an end

By Margaret Lamb FOR THE OBSERVER

The house sits high on a dune in the heart of Pawleys Island, presid- ing over the Atlantic Ocean like a su- premely confident dowager who has withstood everything that life has hurled her way. The sturdy, 82-year-old cottage has been stingy in the face of na- ture’s fury, surrendering only a few shingles and a couple of shutters to Hurricane Hazel in 1954, Hugo in 1989 and the relentless onslaught of storms in the 21st century. Photos by Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer Built by Caroline “Lina” LeConte Gibbes of Columbia, the Gibbes Cot- have such a job in the challenging they had planned to use.” tage, as it is known, has been the era of Reconstruction,” Ellerbe said. Like many old houses, Gibbes seaside retreat for six generations of From the time his great-grand- Cottage is the subject of stories her descendants – the Ellerbes, the mother built Gibbes Cottage until and memories and is full of special Reads, the Boyds, the Pringles and quite late in her life, she ran the cot- places and possessions: the cov- the Gibbes. tage’s weekly schedule during the ered porch where friends and fam- The house is owned by six of cottage in 1939. The house straddles Generations | season (May-September). Occasion- ily ate “millions of boiled peanuts” her grandchildren and great-grand- two of the lots and is buffered on the Mason Ellerbe, above, ally it required some wheeling and and where babies were rocked at children. And, reluctantly, they’ve south by the third. sits on the porch dealing and a little patience on the sunrise; the door of the linen clos- agreed it’s time to sell the five-bed- Gibbes, who died in 1977 at the where he and his part of the expanding family, whose et, with the names and the height room, four-bath cottage that has age of 96, was “strong but very sweet brother were photo- members participated in an annual measurements of five generations seen its share of “raucous house par- and caring and came by her strength graphed as children drawing for their week at the beach. of children; and old black-and-white ties,” and become an intergenera- naturally,” Ellerbe said. Widowed with their grand- “The house has rarely been a photographs that capture the care- tional connection through births, at an early age and left to raise four mother Lina Gibbs. His rental,” Ellerbe said. “Lina always free times and innocence of buoyant marriages, losses, wars and quaran- young children, she followed the ex- wanted to share the house with young men and women. tine. Its owners’ hospitality even in- ample set by her own mother, Caro- mother, Line Ellerbe, friends and family, and nothing Ellerbe’s mother, Caroline spired a “thank you” poem that rests line LeConte, who also was widowed was photographed on gave her greater pleasure than giv- “Line” Robinson Ellerbe, 85, of on the living room mantle. and left to raise four children under the beach at Pawleys ing a week at the house to family Columbia, spent summers at her Mason Ellerbe, 59, of Charlotte, the age of 6. as a child, left. and friends who ‘needed a break’ grandmother’s cottage. and a great-grandson of Caroline Gibbes was around 2 at the time or otherwise would enjoy a week at “During the war, we stayed here “Lina” Gibbes, said she loved Paw- of her father’s death in the early the beach. Her generosity was well during the summers,” she said. leys Island and spent many sum- 1880s, and her mother, who was known in the family, and we all “Everyone was worried about polio mers on the island before buying fondly known as “Old Lady,” was learned that at times we might have back then. We practically quaran- three Myrtle Avenue lots for $1,200 South Carolina’s state librarian. to adjust our plans if Lina chose to tined here, but it was a great place to apiece in 1938 and completing the “That was rare for a woman to give away a week at Pawleys that Continued on Page 20

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Georgetown County’s Museum The of History and Art Rice Museum 633 Front Street • Downtown Georgetown Monday - Saturday 10 am - 4:30 pm 843-546-7423 COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 Beaches 19 TRADITIONS | Murrells Inlet A century on the creek

By Chris Sokoloski time. COASTAL OBSERVER “They retired and did some re- modeling and got some decent heat A lot of things have changed in and air conditioning in here,” Sted- Murrells Inlet in the last 100 years. man said. But at least four things have not: Stedman and his wife, Beth, descendants of the families that moved into the house about 15 years owned property along the creek near ago. They are the only full-time resi- Belin Memorial United Methodist dents among the four families.

Church still own that property. Leon and Jan Rice own Marsh- Tanya Ackerman/Coastal Observer The Byars and Stedmans; the mere, which was built in 1915 as Rices; the Tillers, Martins and Kella- a three-room fishing cabin with Marshmere has remained a va- the 1930s and became the main road, hans; and the Kings all have roots in screens instead of windows. cation home that the Rices rent out. there was a dirt road that ran along the area going back a century. In 1919, the property was bought No one has ever lived in it full-time. the creek in back of the houses. Once The Byars family started renting for $800 by Eunice Ford Stackhouse Through the years, the house was a hurricane destroyed a bridge along property in Murrells Inlet in 1889. In of Marion, the dean of Limestone expanded and updated. Porches the road, people stopped using it. 1910, Luther Byars bought one acre College. In 1921, Stackhouse sold it were enclosed and heating and air Several houses south of the Sted- on the creek. His grandson, Warren to her sister Ethel, who was Leon’s conditioning were added, along man property still have a dirt road Stedman, lives on that land today. grandmother. with more bedrooms and bathrooms running through the properties. “My grandfather loved to Ethel’s children – Fordie, A.C. and a kitchen. All four of the houses survived fish,” Stedman said. “That’s the and Josephine – were the next own- There are enough beds to sleep Hurricane Hugo in 1989, although reason he bought the place and ers. Fordie did 19 people, plus their docks didn’t. came here. … He loved it down here. not like look- a few couches. “This strip right here was really He liked to hunt too, but fishing was ing over into “One of lucky,” Jan said. Photos | his passion.” her neighbor’s the children “They’re well-built, that’s a lot The same Two houses were built on the house so she of the renters of it,” Stedman said. “They’re low families property in 1914 and called Cozy had the house said, ‘oh I love to the ground. They’ve withstood have been Oak. One had a porch wrapped moved 25 feet the house with time and they’ve withstood a lot of around a large oak tree. Both were closer to the the crooked storms.” celebrat- two stories and had no glass win- creek. floors,’” Jan Leon said some people who lost ing the dows, just screens and shutters. Leon was said. “It has houses to hurricanes couldn’t afford Fourth of “Mama told me when it rained, born in 1943 personality.” to rebuild so they sold the land. Jan July on she would have to close the shutters and started The Rices said there was some luck involved the creek because the rain would come in,” spending his live nearby and in the properties staying within the at Marsh- Stedman said. “They were very basic summers in are at Marsh- same families. mere for houses.” Murrells Inlet. mere every day “The families managed to stay Byars had a chance to buy the Since the three to fix something together,” she added. “They loved it 100 years. property across the creek which is siblings shared ownership, each or to take one of their boats out. so much.” now Garden City Point. family spent one month of the sum- “When something’s biting, [Leon About 16 years ago, the group of “He said nobody is ever going to mer there. is] here,” Jan said. neighbors got together and had their live on that sandbar,” Stedman said. “We didn’t have air condition- Daisy and Frank Martin, bought land rezoned from general residen- After Byars daughter, Lurline, ing, we didn’t have TV,” Leon said. the property between the Stedmans tial, which would have allowed for 16 married John Stedman of Marion, “To use the phone we had to go to and the Rices in the early 1900s. units on each property, to residen- the couple tore down the two houses Oliver’s and call long distance.” It eventually passed to their great- tial one-half, which only allows two and built a new one in 1955. Some of “You lived by the tide,” Jan said. nephew, Ralph Tiller of Mullins. His houses on each plot. the wood from the original houses “If it was low tide, you were out three daughters now own it. “It was a little bit of self-help,” was salvaged and used in the new shrimping and crabbing and oyster- “It was not an option to get rid of Leon said. “We’re protected.” one. Like his mother, Stedman spent ing. In the good old days, you could it,” said Emmy Lou Kellahan, one of “I don’t want to give it up. I love his summers on the inlet property. drag one of these creeks right over Tiller’s daughters. “I don’t think it’s this place,” Stedman said. “I hope In the late 1980s, Stedman’s par- here three times and get 10 pounds going anywhere outside the family.” my children continue to own it one ents started living in the house full- of shrimp.” Before Business 17 was built in day. It’s very unique here.”

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All Saints Church L ITCHFIELD M OUNT P LEASANT 3560 Kings River Rd, Pawleys Island 221 Willbrook Blvd. k 1100 Bowman Rd. Suite 100 843-237-4223 • AllSaintsPawleys.org 843.235.8560 843.284.8847 • Cakes • Jams • Salad • Chutneys • Jellies Dressings • Marinades • • Wine • Fresh Baked Bread • Pastries • Cookies • COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 20 Beaches LEGENDS | The Gray Man ers who stayed at the inn. The late Charles Joyner, a profes- sor of Southern history and culture at Coastal Carolina University, did extensive research on another lo- Guiding spirit cal ghost, Alice Flagg. He found the Gray Man legend appeared to have originated in print in the 1940s with Businesses have been named but theirs were left standing,” Car- the publication of a book of ghost in his honor and he’s the subject of michael wrote. stories by Julian Bollick. It doesn’t artwork, books and even a movie. There are a number of variations seem to have been widely told be- He may be South Carolina’s most fa- on the legend, but most of the tales fore that. mous ghost. seem to lead back to three or four Joyner tried to find the names As a harbinger of dangerous main versions. of people who have seen the Gray storms, the Gray Man has been busi- Most say the Gray Man was first Man, but didn’t have any luck. There er than ever in recent years. seen in 1822, before there were hous- seems to be a new flurry of stories “There are more rumors and sto- es built on Pawleys Island. He is said every year when hurricane season ries about the Gray Man than any- to have last been sighted in 1989, just starts, he said. thing in South Carolina,” said Sher- before Hurricane Hugo. The Gray Man got national at- man Carmichael, author of “Legends One of the main tales says the tention after Hurricane Hugo when and Lore of South Carolina.” It fea- Gray Man is the ghost of a young a couple of island residents were in- tures two versions of the Gray Man man who was caught in quick sand terviewed on “Unsolved Mysteries.” story. “You can pick up 10 books on while traveling from Charleston to They had seen the Gray Man during South Carolina legends and prob- see the girl he loved. The unfortu- an afternoon walk before the storm. ably eight or nine have something nate young man and his horse died The husband raised his hand to say about the Gray Man.” before help could arrive and his spir- hello, and the man disappeared. The traditional Gray Man is be- it has haunted the shore ever since, Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer The houses around theirs were de- nevolent, showing up before a major looking for the woman he loved. stroyed by the storm, but they re- storm as a warning to the living and Stories have claimed the Gray Rare sightings | While it is rare turned home after the storm to find an omen of safety for those who see Man is everything from the spirit of to find someone who has actually things just as they left them. him. the island’s namesake, George Paw- seen the Gray Man, there are many “When he appears to you, you’re “Everyone that has come in con- ley, to that of Edward Teach, better people who swear they know some- very blessed and fortunate. Your tact with him says he warns them to known as Black Beard. Some sources house will be saved,” the late au- leave the island, that danger is ap- claim the Gray Man to be the ghost one who has seen the spirit. thor Genevieve “Sister” Peterkin of proaching. Those that heeded the of Plowden C.J. Weston or a member Murrells Inlet said. She recounted a warning of this helpful spirit and of his family. Weston was the origi- story about one house that not only left the island have returned after nal owner of the home on Pawleys survived a hurricane after the own- the hurricane to find their homes Island that is now the Pelican Inn. ers saw the Gray Man, but the beach undamaged. Homes on both sides, Locals say a former owner claimed towels left on the porch hadn’t even front and back have been destroyed, to have seen him there, as have oth- blown away.

TRADITIONS | The Gibbes Cottage

From Page 18 girlfriends and I came to the cot- son said. Ellerbe, at sunrise. be quarantined.” tage many, many times over the next He should know. “I told my son Mason that I had Line Ellerbe said they weren’t several decades,” she said. “When “When I was a boy, my uncle was to do this. I gave her a bottle and allowed to drink the water from the we were young we always stayed up- working on a Boy Scout merit badge rocked her in that same old chair,” Changing times | spigot. Just about every day, she and stairs in the ‘bull pen,’” a large room and had to track the distance from he said. “It was so special.” Caroline LeConte her cousin Johnny Pringle had to on the second floor of the house. the house to each end of the island Mason hopes the old Gibbes Cot- Gibbs bought three walk to a nearby artesian well at the After the high tides of 1952, the and then hike 10 miles,” he said. “It tage, with its primitive furnishings, 60-foot-wide lots from South Causeway and fill the buckets. house was moved back 75 feet be- was 1.5 miles to the north end and 1.6 and un-air-conditioned and unheat- “Johnny and I would carry those hind a dune. miles to the south.” ed rooms, is not part of a vanishing the Atlantic Coast buckets back to the house,” Line “Fortunately, it was completed For Ellerbe, who has vacationed way of life. Lumber Co. for $1,200 said. “Nobody would remember that just before Hazel,” Mason said. “The at the cottage every year, the big “I hope it’s only evolving and each in 1938. Her except the kids who had to carry the house lost only a few shingles to the porch is his special place. that traditions of family will not be house was completed water,” she said. storm, but houses that the cottage “I’m an early riser, and when my lost,” he said, “I cherish them and I the following year. It Every couple of days, the ice man had been parallel to before the move three children, who are grown, were know my many cousins do as well. cost $11,000. would deliver a block of ice that was were destroyed.” babies, I’d let my wife sleep and rock We’ll continue to return to the island kept in a box in the front hall. The 1.3 acres of high dunes and them on the porch while I watched for family vacations. My children For Line, the summers spent healthy vegetation with 180 feet of the sun rise,” he said. love Pawleys and we cherish all the with her lifelong high school friends frontage is likely the largest private- Earlier this spring, Ellerbe con- traditions. I think my kids will seek are her favorite memories. ly held tract on Pawleys and is in the tinued that tradition, rocking his to retain them.” “From high school onward, my geographic center of the Island, Ma- first grandchild, 3-month-old Eva

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Oceanfront Dining

Photos by Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer CYCLING | The beach cruiser Off the beaten path

While visiting Pawleys Island, brakes (the kind operated by push- you’ve probably seen a pack of cy- ing back on the pedals). clists racing down Kings River Road, Beach bikes can be ridden on or a family meandering on two the road, of course, but are designed wheels along the Bike Path. specially to be able to function in the But you’re also likely to see peo- sand, something multi-geared bikes Smooth ple riding bicycles called “cruisers” can’t do. The sand gets in the gears rides | on the beach. of ordinary bikes and the saltwater Packed Enthusiasts say these beach causes rust and ruin to the metal sand bikes are a way of life and a reflec- frame in no time. tion of the Pawleys Island culture: Cruisers, however, are generally below laid-back and easy. made of aluminum and alloy, which the high What sets a cruiser apart is that is rust resistant and lightweight. tide line, it’s designed for riding in comfort Wider ballooned tires also help above, and style over performance. The with navigating sand. provides handlebars are straight or curved On the Waccamaw Neck, you can an unin- back, facilitating an upright riding rent or purchase bicycles from Paw- Seafood, Salads terrupted position and the bikes have large, leys Island Beach Service, 843-237- padded unisex saddles. They don’t 4666; Cyclopedia, 843-235-6500; Sandwiches route from have fenders, have only one gear and and Inlet Bike Rentals, 843-357-1222. Midway are equipped with classic coaster Inlet to Burgers, Steaks Murrells Inlet. Kids Menu A mile away, the Delicious Daquiris Bike the Neck trail, Margaritas & Coladas right, also connects Litchfield OPEN 11:00 am Lunch & Dinner 7 Days a Week and Mur- rells Inlet. 1870 N. Waccamaw Dr.•Garden City (843) 651-6556 1.5 mi. North of Garden City Pier MENU: www.conchcafe.net

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10729 Ocean Hwy Unit A, Pawleys Island - Next To Bistro 217 843-237-2578 • [email protected] COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 22 Beaches OUTDOORS | Disc golf

Different strokes By Chris Sokoloski pars, birdies and bogeys. Players COASTAL OBSERVER try to get from the tee to the green in as few strokes as possible. But Pawleys Island has always been instead of trying to sink a ball into a mecca for golfers. But for the last a small hole in the ground, players three years, its also been a destina- try to toss a disc into a 22-inch bas- Did you tion for disc golfers. ket made up of plastic or metal and know? | Stables Park is home to Warrior’s chains. Warrior’s Run, a nine-hole disc golf course Disc golf courses generally Run at designed by Jonathan Poole, one of have less grass than standard golf the co-founders of the U.S. Disc Golf courses. They are usually built in a Stables Championship. natural setting, with players having Park is “I think Stables Park is an abso- to navigate around trees, across wa- 2,447 feet lute gem,” said Dan Newquist, an ter hazards like streams and up and in length. avid disc golf player who has orga- over hills. You need nized tournaments at the course. “You’re not having wide-open to finish in “[It] is highlighted by live oak trees fairways,” Newquist said. 30 shots and water. We even have wildlife And, like golf courses, disc here and there on the course.” courses are a variety of layouts and to make Disc golf is not new to the Wac- lengths. par. camaw Neck. There was a course at The course at Stables is 2,447 Huntington Beach State Park until feet. Three of the holes are par 4s it was destroyed by Hurricane Hugo and six are par 3s. A player would in 1989. have to card a 30 to shoot par. The Nearly 20 years later the county longest hole is No. 1 and plays at 408 installed a course at East Bay Park feet. The shortest is No. 8 and plays in Georgetown in 2008. at 170 feet. Like golfers, disc golf play- “Most of the holes are relatively ers carry an array of discs to use short,” Newquist said. on different shots, depending on Three holes at Stables have wa- distance. Discs vary in the type of ter hazards. plastic they are made from and how “I anticipate some players losing much they weigh. [discs],” Newquist said. “Not to wish “For a competitive round, I car- that on anybody but that is an ele- ry roughly 25 discs,” Newquist said. ment of the course. You may lose a “Hopefully I won’t end up using disc during the round and have to each of those discs. … If my game take a penalty.” plan holds true, I probably will A competitive 18-hole round of end up throwing about 10 of those disc golf with more than one player discs.” can usually be completed in around Disc golf scoring and terminol- two hours. One person can play 18 ogy is the same as regular golf with holes in less than an hour. 9160 Ocean Highway Pawleys Island (843) 235-3007

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SalesSales • RentaRentalsls • Property Management Rentals: 843-237-2000 Sales: 843-237-2431843-237-2431 www.pawleysislandrealty.comwww.pawleysislandrealty.com COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 Beaches 23 WEATHER | Hurricane season Storm Photo | Hurricane Hugo in 1989 cut the south warning end of Pawleys Island in By Margaret Lamb half. FOR THE OBSERVER

If hurricane fatigue had its own Saffir-Simpson scale, coastal resi- dents might now be a Category 5, the result of the 24-hour news cycle and Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer sophisticated technology that can track a hurricane for days on end, newspaper published one day before that the high water of October 13-14 Hugo. It perhaps killed up to 300 but can’t pinpoint its arrival time the storm, forecast “northeasterly exceeded that of September, 1822, people and may have been the worst and destination. winds with rain on the coast, pos- and also that of August 28, 1881, by in history in the Georgetown area.” The downside is stress, frayed sibly increasing to gales Saturday nearly 3 feet. It exceeded that of Au- In addition to Hugo in 1989 and nerves and, in many cases, unneces- night; preceding a hurricane centre gust 27, 1893, by at least 2 feet 4 inch- the Great Sea Island hurricane, the sary expense, time and energy spent moving north.” es. I have had a level taken from the deadliest hurricanes in the mod- preparing and evacuating to a safer Relief efforts were stalled by inside of the North Island lighthouse ern era were Hazel in 1954, Gracie location. the second major hurricane, which tower, where the water mark is least in 1959 and an unnamed hurricane The flipside is being unprepared, struck Magnolia Beach on Friday, likely to be obscured by wave action, near Beaufort in 1940 that packed and a look back at hurricane his- Oct. 13. That area is now known as and the level reached was 11.3 feet.” winds of 105 mph and killed 34. tory and records shows the havoc Litchfield Beach. In that same letter, Alexander Hazel made landfall near the wrought by no warnings or late Known as “the Flagg flood” be- wrote, “The popular report is that South Carolina-North Carolina bor- warnings in an era before weather Name game | cause the waters swept away mem- the water rose on Magnolia Beach, der, bringing 106 mph winds and a forecasting. The 2020 hurricane bers of the prominent Flagg family, a sandy peninsula about 25 miles 17-foot storm surge to Myrtle Beach Four storms struck South Caroli- season saw tropical who were summering in their homes northeast of Georgetown, 6 feet and leveling oceanfront property na in 1893. “Two of those were major storms Arthur, Bertha on Magnolia Beach, the storm was above the August gale, but this from Pawleys Island to the state line. hurricanes, the only year we know also a Category 3. needs to be verified by an expert. Georgetown got 8.8 inches of that has happened in South Caroli- and Cristobal develop Their graves are in the All Saints What between the two gales, August rain in 24 hours. na’s history,” said Cary Mock, a Uni- before mid June. Next Church cemetery. and October, and one or two freshets Gracie, which was the strongest versity of South Carolina geography on the list are: Dolly, Dr. Arthur Belin Flagg, his wife, in the river, the average production storm in 1959, came ashore near professor who specializes in the his- Edouard, Fay, Gon- Georgianna, sons Arthur and Ward, of rice in all this region will hardly Beaufort with winds of 140 mph. tory of hurricanes. zalo, Hanna, Isais, and several cousins were in one of exceed one-sixth or one-seventh of Mock said the popular Saffir- The Great Sea Island Hurricane, Josephine, Kyle, Laura, the houses. the estimated crop. The total loss Simpson hurricane category scale is which came ashore south of Beau- Marco, Nana, Omar, Dr. Arthur Flagg Jr., his wife, of life in this vicinity in the October based only on sustained wind speed, fort on Aug. 28, 1893, is considered Mattie, five of their six children, two storm is 22 and the loss of property a measure that can lead residents to one of the deadliest in the state’s Paulette, Rene, Sally, of Mattie’s sisters and three servants at least $250,000.” underestimate potential damage. history, Mock said. Teddy, Vicky and were in another house. Mock has spent years scouring “There is discussion about hav- “Up to 3,000 people, mostly Af- Wilfred. The season Dr. Joshua John Ward Flagg, newspapers, diaries and shipping ing three ratings for hurricanes: rican Americans who lived on the ends Nov. 30 known as “Ward,” was in another. logs all over the United States and wind speed, moisture and storm sea islands, drowned from the storm According to news accounts, England for data on hurricanes go- surge,” he said. “Florence was a surge, which some estimate reached only three people survived. No hous- ing back 300 years. weak Category 1 when it made land- as high as 16 feet,” he said. es remained on Magnolia Beach. Mock said the other strong hur- fall in North Carolina, but more like What would now be classified as Edward Porter Alexander, a for- ricanes in the Georgetown area oc- a 5 for moisture. Matthew in 2016 a Category 3 hurricane, the storm mer Civil War general who was on curred in 1820, 1822, 1827, 1829, 1830, was a Category 1 at 80 mph, but had left around 20,000 people homeless South Island at the time, document- 1834, 1837 and twice in 1838. a big storm surge and brought flood- and nearly every building along the ed winds of 90 mph at 9:30 a.m. “The 1830s were very active on ing rains.” barrier islands beyond repair. Porter wrote the following ac- the East Coast. The 1834 hurricane Although he studies the past, The aftermath took more than count in a letter: “Records of high killed 34 people in South Carolina,” Mock still keeps an eye on the fu- 10 months to clean up, according to water in previous gales have been Mock said. “The 1822 hurricane that ture. “The big hurricanes are getting news accounts. preserved by means of notches on Porter refers to was a Category 3 or stronger and potentially going to get A weather brief in The State trees, and by comparison it appears 4 with a similar track as Hurricane worse,” he said.

From PILBA & Our Business Partners Our mission is to ensure the Pawleys Island - Litchfield Community continues to be one of the premier destinations on the South Carolina coast to live, work and visit. We invite you to visit and patronize our business partners who have helped make our area what it is today. And please always consider shopping local.

PLATINUM PARTNERS GOLD PARTNERS INDIVIDUAL/CONSULTANT PARTNERS Bellamy Law Firm Coastal Carolina Home Watch Linda Ketron, Class at Pawleys / Artworks Coastal Observer Chapman Construction Dr. Congdon, Coastal Urgent Care Detail Technology ETS Engineers Darissa Thompson Real Estate Inc. Dunes Realty Matt Sedota, Easy & Talk 94.5 First Citizens Bank COMPANY PARTNERS Tim Boyle, Edward Jones Investments Founders National Golf LLC Ad Art Signs By The Sea ChrisThomas, Fox Marketing, Inc. Franks & Franks Outback Artworks / Class at Pawleys Harmon and Felts, PA Ellis O'Tuel, Hammock Wealth Management C2G2, LLC John Henry Whitmire Hopkins Law Firm Carolina Dry Cleaners Lachicotte Company Christopher's Jewelry Lisa Prior, Sellstate Group Realty Lakes at Litchfield Coastal Carolina Association of Realtors Sherron Lane, Realtor, The Litchfield Company Litchfield Books Coastal Chevrolet Cadillac Nissan Troi Kaz, Realtor, Keller Williams Pawleys Island Realty Conway National Bank Ron Stalvey, Waccamaw Broadcasting, LLC Servpro First Trust Mortgage PAWLEYS ISLAND SGA / Narmour Wright Design Get Carried Away LITCHFIELD Smith Sapp Gray Man Gallery NON-PROFIT PARTNERS South Atlantic Bank Hurd Insurance Agency Brookgreen Gardens The Citizens Bank Island Art Gallery Frances P. Bunnelle Foundation Tidelands Health Good Friends B Litchfield Real Estate ILB Total Tree & Lake Care Inc PIL A PBUSINESS A My Sister's Books Wells Fargo Advisors Palmetto Ace Hardware ASSOCIATION UPS Store Pawleys Island Pharmacy The Brandon Agency The Dieter Company United Community Bank Waccamaw Law LLC For more information about PILBA, or TO JOIN: www.JoinPILBA.com • [email protected] • PO Box 1647, Pawleys Island, SC 29585 COASTAL OBSERVER COASTAL OBSERVER 24 Summer 2020 Summer 2020 Beaches Beaches 25 A longer walk to the ocean

From Second Front itself at a cost of $14.3 million. That included a state grant and a loan. Marinex Construction of Charleston start- ed work in October in the wake of Hurricane Dorian. A dredge anchored over a borrow site off the south end of Pawleys Island. The sand that first emerged from the pipe was mixed with mud, sending up a dark fountain of water. As the dredge cut through the top layer, the wa- ter cleared. Bulldozers pushed up a berm to hold the slurry of sand and water on the beach. As the water settled, the machines graded the sand into the profile designed by Coastal Science and Engineering. Work continued around the clock – with the occasional break for maintenance and bad weather – until early March. The sand, equal to about 80,000 dump truck loads, covered all of the 23 rock and timber groins that have been a feature of the Pawleys Island beachfront for over 60 years. They are expected to remain mostly buried by the new sand for a couple of years. The town has put up signs to mark their location. The groins were built to trap sand that moves in the current along the beachfront. A study commissioned by the town in 2014, found that the beach was mostly stable, but that there Photos by Trevor Swenson (above) and Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer wasn’t much sand in the system to buffer the is- Building the beach: Clockwise from above, the beach grows wider on the south end; beachgoers trek across the new beach; a plume of dredge slurry emerges from the pipe; Hal Droter with beach plants in front of the south end parking lot; former land from storms. Mayor Bill Otis, who shepherded the renourishment for 20 years, watches progress in front of his house; dredge pipe heads north toward Pawleys Pier. The town pushed up sand from the beach to rebuild dunes lost in a series of hurricanes, be- ginning in 2015. But by the time Dorian arrived, there wasn’t any more sand to scrape. The renourishment was designed to place more sand on the beach than required, said Ste- ven Traynum, the project manager for Coastal Science. It is expected to shift with the current and with storms. But there is now over 100 feet of dry sand beach at high tide on the island’s south end where a year ago the water lapped at the foot of the walkways. There is something else on the south end: a dune. Part of the project included installing sand fence and planting beach grass to help build up the dunes along the island. More will be add- ed on the south end this fall as the result of a partnership between the town and the Corps of Engineers that will also help finance future re- nourishment projects. The town has already started planning for the next round of renourishment, although it hopes that won’t be required anytime soon. But it’s a dynamic system.

PEACE VACATIONS

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From Second Front itself at a cost of $14.3 million. That included a state grant and a loan. Marinex Construction of Charleston start- ed work in October in the wake of Hurricane Dorian. A dredge anchored over a borrow site off the south end of Pawleys Island. The sand that first emerged from the pipe was mixed with mud, sending up a dark fountain of water. As the dredge cut through the top layer, the wa- ter cleared. Bulldozers pushed up a berm to hold the slurry of sand and water on the beach. As the water settled, the machines graded the sand into the profile designed by Coastal Science and Engineering. Work continued around the clock – with the occasional break for maintenance and bad weather – until early March. The sand, equal to about 80,000 dump truck loads, covered all of the 23 rock and timber groins that have been a feature of the Pawleys Island beachfront for over 60 years. They are expected to remain mostly buried by the new sand for a couple of years. The town has put up signs to mark their location. The groins were built to trap sand that moves in the current along the beachfront. A study commissioned by the town in 2014, found that the beach was mostly stable, but that there Photos by Trevor Swenson (above) and Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer wasn’t much sand in the system to buffer the is- Building the beach: Clockwise from above, the beach grows wider on the south end; beachgoers trek across the new beach; a plume of dredge slurry emerges from the pipe; Hal Droter with beach plants in front of the south end parking lot; former land from storms. Mayor Bill Otis, who shepherded the renourishment for 20 years, watches progress in front of his house; dredge pipe heads north toward Pawleys Pier. The town pushed up sand from the beach to rebuild dunes lost in a series of hurricanes, be- ginning in 2015. But by the time Dorian arrived, there wasn’t any more sand to scrape. The renourishment was designed to place more sand on the beach than required, said Ste- ven Traynum, the project manager for Coastal Science. It is expected to shift with the current and with storms. But there is now over 100 feet of dry sand beach at high tide on the island’s south end where a year ago the water lapped at the foot of the walkways. There is something else on the south end: a dune. Part of the project included installing sand fence and planting beach grass to help build up the dunes along the island. More will be add- ed on the south end this fall as the result of a partnership between the town and the Corps of Engineers that will also help finance future re- nourishment projects. The town has already started planning for the next round of renourishment, although it hopes that won’t be required anytime soon. But it’s a dynamic system.

PEACE VACATIONS

From Beach to Creek, Discover Peace along the Waccamaw Neck…

843.979.2700 | Peace-Vacations.com | [email protected] 35 Capers Way, Suite B, Pawleys Island, SC 29585

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By Chris Sokoloski For more information go to scmari- COASTAL OBSERVER timemuseum.org.

Georgetown, the third oldest city in The Georgetown County Museum South Carolina, has the area’s history on is located in the History Center, which is display at five downtown museums. filled with artifacts, displays and exhibits. Three of the museums are located in a Visitors can take a guided tour or ex- five-block area along Front Street. Two are plore the located just off Front Street. museum on their own to The Rice Museum occupies the Old learn about Market and Kaminski Hardware buildings the history beneath the Town Clock. The Old Market of the city, Building was the first building in the city the county, to be added to the National Register of His- the people, at toric Places. the indus- Savings on Your Favorite Brands Everyday! The museum offers guided tours or lets tries, and ar- visitors explore on their own to learn about ea’s ups and the history of rice cultivation in George- downs. The town County. The is also a display on the museum Browns Ferry Vessel, the oldest craft of co- often hosts lonial manufacture found in the U.S. lectures and The Rice Museum is also home to the traveling ex- Prevost Art Gallery, which features works hibits. of local artists. The Georgetown County Museum, lo- Walter’s Produce Baker The museum, located at 633 Front St. at cated at 120 Broad St., is open Tuesdays the beginning of the city’s Harborwalk, is through Saturdays. open Mondays through Saturdays. For more information go to george- Walter’sSeafood Produce GreatDeli •Gourmet Bakery For more information go to ricemuse- towncountymuseum.org. um.org. The Gullah Museum explores the FreshSeafood Dairy FrozenGreat Gourmet Foods role African-Americans played in the de- velopment of Georgetown County and the Lowcountry. It was founded by Andrew Meat Household Items Rodrigues and his late wife, Bunny, who Fresh Dairy Frozen Foods was a renowned quilter whose work is in the Smithsonian Institute. Her story quilts are among the items on VineyardMeat Favorites HouseholdHealth Items display along with other art and artifacts. The museum, located at 123-7 King St. Senior Bonus Day behind Wells Fargo bank, is open Mondays VineyardDeli Favorites Health through Saturdays. Wednesdays 5% off Buy Any 4 Bottles Senior Bonus Day The S.C. Maritime Museum cele- The Kaminski House was built in the brates the maritime history of Georgetown mid-1700s by Paul Trapier, one of South of Wine Get 10% off Wednesdays 5% off County and the state. Carolina’s leading merchants and is listed Visitors will find the Fresnel lens on the National Register of Historic Places. from the Georgetown lighthouse, a The house sits among live oaks over- 22,000-pound propeller and models of old looking the Sampit River. It is filled with Savings on Your Favorite Brands Everyday! sailing ships along with photographs, doc- of furniture, household goods, clothing, uments, artifacts and interactive exhibits. antiques and furnishings from the last 300 During the summer, the museum hosts years. Bi-Lo Shopping Center youth sailing camps. Students get class- The museum, located at 1003 Front St., room instruction and hands-on experience is open Mondays through Saturdays. Visi- BiLo115 Shopping Willbrook Center • 14427Blvd. Ocean Pawleys Highway, Island Litchfi eld in small boats in the Sampit River, just be- tors must purchase a ticket for a guided (843) 237-8456 hind the museum. tour to be admitted. (843) 235-9434 The museum, located at 729 Front St., is For more information go to kaminski- open Mondays through Saturdays. museum.org.

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CALEDONIA GOLF & FISH CLUB TRUE BLUE GOLF CLUB 369 Caledonia Drive • Pawleys Island, SC 29585 900 Blue Stem Drive • Pawleys Island, SC 29585 843.237.3675 843.235.0900 truebluegolf.com Dining rooms open to the public daily. COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 28 Beaches BOOKS | ‘Pawleys Island: An Old Man’s Love Story’ + 60 years

Generations of Family Vacations

Georgetown County Digital Library (above), Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer (below) Memories of a lifetime

By Chris Sokoloski the surf, walk on the beach, ride the COASTAL OBSERVER waves, and dig holes in the sand,” When the last pavilion was built McAlister writes in the book. on Pawleys Island in 1960, there was McAlister spent his first full a dispute about whether to call it La- summer on Pawleys Island in 1954. fayette Pavilion 2 or something else. He had just finished his sophomore Robert “Mac” McAlister, who year at Georgia Institute of Tech- designed the building, took it upon nology and got a summer job at the himself to settle the matter. International Paper mill in George- “My last contribution to con- town. struction was to letter with black “Whenever I crossed the South paint ‘Pawley Pavilion’ over the en- Causeway and turned onto the • Family-Grown, Locally Owned trance, in two- ocean road, I felt I was in a differ- foot high let- ent world, and I relaxed,” McAlister ters in German writes in the book. • Courteous Service script,” McAli- McAlister rented a room in the ster writes in back of Island Drug, which was next • Long-Term Relationships his latest book, to the bowling alley on Myrtle Av- “Pawleys Island: enue. It cost him $50 for the whole • Treasured Traditions An Old Man’s summer. Love Story.” “I had no responsibilities in those • Family Focused for Generations Now 85, days,” McAlister said. “In those days McAlister wrote you could get away with doing that.” the book because Six years later in 1960, after grad- • Private, Clean Cottages & Condos he said there’s uating from Georgia Tech and serv- not many people ing in the Navy, McAlister took a full- • Oceanfront, Dog Friendly, Pool & More still alive who re- time job with IP and rented a small Mac- member Pawleys Island as far back pink house called the HMS Pinafore McAlister as he does, to 1950. on the south end of the island. He Sales, Rentals & Along with “I thought that I needed to tell joined the Pawleys Island Episcopal designing the story of early Pawleys Island Men’s Club Poker Playing Society living when the old Pavilion was in with Arthur “Doc” Lachicotte, and Property Management the last operation,” McAlister said. “I didn’t designed a new pavilion to replace pavilion, think anybody had told that story. one that had been destroyed by fire. above, There’s not many people left who That same year McAlister was in- Since 1959 has can tell it.” troduced to the love of his life, Mary written McAlister was 16 the first time he Shower. They met in June, were books on visited the island with his family in married in December and stayed www.LitchfieldRealEstate.com maritime 1950. married until her death in 2018. “I didn’t know anybody on Paw- In 1963 the couple purchased two Our mobile website makes searching easy! history. leys Island, but that didn’t matter lots on Pawleys Creek on the north because all I wanted to do was fish in Continued on Page 29 (843) 237-4241 12980 Ocean Highway • Litchfield Beach, South Carolina 29585

Community Learning About Special Subjects 843.235.9600 ClassAtPawleys.com

ART WORKS & CLASS CELEBRATE CLASS LEARNING DIVISION WINTER DOWN UNDER SIGN UP FOR NEW FALL CLASSES MANTRA/METTA MONDAY ZOOMS WITH LISA ROSOF Saturday, July 25, 10 AM-5 PM Turning pain into song – Sacred healing chants for seamless integration Artist & Author Fair, Music, Refreshments & Raffle Baskets 11am-Noon, 9/14-10/19 & 10/26-12/7 (x11/23), $100/6wks featuring TUESDAY STAINED GLASS WITH SHARON KNOST Beg/Int, 9:30am-12:30pm, 9/1-10/6 (x9/8), $100+m/5wks RT ORKS RTISTS Int/Adv, 1-4pm, 9/1-10/6 (x9/8), $100+m/5wks Fine, folk & functionalA artwork W by local artists, A including paintings, fabric art, Beg/Int, 9:30am-12:30pm, 10/13-11/17, $120+m/6wks stained & fused glass, turned wood, pine straw & clay creations by Int/Adv, 1-4pm, 10/13-11/17, $120+m/6wks Terry Belanger, Nancy Bracken, Patricia Candal, Roger Cleveland, WEDNESDAY STAINED GLASS WITH KATHY WELDE Millie Doud, Lisa Elvington, Terry Graham, Zenobia Harper, Rachel Held, Int/Adv, 9:30am-12:30pm, 9/2-10/7 & 10/14-11/18, $120+m/6wks Martha Hollenhorst, Brenda Kathman, Barbara Kee, Pris Keefer, Beg/Int, 1-4pm, 9/2-10/7 & 10/14-11/18, $120+m/6wks Sharon Knost, Barbara Linderman, Danny McLaughlin, Suz Mole, Paul Moyer, THURSDAY WORKSHOPS WITH SUZ! MOLE Fused Glass Ornaments, 1-4pm, 7/30-8/6, $120+m Barnie Slice, Sharon Sorrels, MP Swenson, Christy Weaver, Kathy Welde Fused Glass Fall Serving Dish, 1-4pm, 8/13-20, $120+m Beg Alcohol Inks, 12:30-4:30pm, 9/17, $60+m Int Alcohol Inks, 12:30-4:30pm, 9/24, $60+m CLASS PUBLISHING AUTHORS Encaustics/Alcohol Inks/Resin, 1-4pm, 10/1-8, $100+m Books by local authors, poets, illustrators & photographers Fused Glass Fall Serving Dish, 1-4pm, 10/15-22, $120+m Tracy S. Bailey, Ron Daise with Brookgreen authors & artists, SATURDAY PAINT-INS WITH DANNY MCLAUGHLIN R. Marc Davison, Millie Doud, Bryan England, 10am-5pm, 7/11 & 7/25, 8/8 & 8/22, 9/12 & 9/26, Liz Gallo & Carolyn Pais, Bud Hill & Billy Baldwin, 10/10 & 10/24, 11/7 & 11/21, $50/wk John Mathis, Robert “Mac” McAlister, Ernie Merchant Plus advanced sales for HE OVEABLE EAST Pawleys Island: Seasons of Light by Tanya Ackerman T M F Our Vanishing Americana: SC Portrait by Mike Lassiter MOSTLY FRIDAYS, 11 AM TO 1 PM Sandy Island … forever by OSTLY Linda Ketron, Anne Malarich, Susan McMillan, Robin Salmon, After 22 years of literary luncheonsM with exciting $30 authors at area restaurants, Vennie Deas Moore, Virginia & Dana Beach, Maura Kenny COVID-19 stopped us in our tracks. We will resume when authors are traveling, restaurants are open for group luncheons & you are ready to mingle.

THE LITCHFIELD EXCHANGE Check our website for updates at www.ClassAtPawleys.com

Art Works, CLASS & The Moveable Feast in the Litchfield Exchange 14363 Ocean Hwy Monday-Saturday, 10 am-2 pm COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 Beaches 29 The Freshest Seafood At The Beach!

Fresh Local Shrimp Live #1 Blue Crabs Mac McAlister (above), Charles Swenson/Coastal Observer (below) Live Maine Lobster Then and now | The view along Myrtle Avenue on Pawleys Island has changed since 1962, above. A common feature is the building that once housed Bill’s Boats. New Bedford Dry Scallops Fresh Clams & Oysters Homemade Gourmet Items, Sauces, Spices & More!

We Feature the Largest Display of Fresh Seafood in South Carolina Th e Very Best Homemade Crab Cakes, Fritters, Lobster Cakes and Spring Rolls From Page 28 Condominiums, a few miles south end of the island for $1,250 and built of Georgetown, in 1973. After leaving Daily Hot Soup Bar with our Award a 900-square-foot, one-bedroom the project, the McAlisters bought prefabricated house themselves. a boat and spent months living on Winning, ‘from scratch’ Chowders, Mary named it Marshmellow. it with their three sons and sailing “As far as I know, it was the first across the Atlantic. Bisques, Gumbos and More prefabricated house built on Paw- After years away, the McAlisters leys Island since before the Civil moved back to Belle Isle for good in War, when rice planters prefabri- 1998. cated summer homes on their plan- McAlister has seen a lot of tations before disassembling them changes to Pawleys Island in the last and shipping them to Pawleys is- 70 years. Let Us Bring Th e land,” McAlister writes in the book. “To me it’s not like it was then, The McAlisters lived in North I like it more then than I do now,” Carolina and Massachusetts for sev- McAlister said. “It’s gotten more eral years before returning to South crowded. People have built more Restaurant To You! Carolina in 1969. They eventually houses on both sides of Highway 17 sold Marshmellow and rented a and more commercial activities that We are also the Grand Strand’s #1 Caterer! house on the south end of the island have brought people and they still while McAlister worked on the Paw- have to crowd onto the same island. leys Pier Village project. So it’s more crowded than it used to “The architect’s design for Paw- be.” leys Pier Village looked like nothing Despite the changes, McAlister Lowcountry Boils else on Pawleys,” McAlister writes in still has a deep love for Pawleys Is- the book. “It was as if he had never land. Oyster Roasts been there.” “I’m glad that’s it been protected When the condos hit the market and that there are things going on Cocktail Parties they were listed for between $54,000 that will keep it as much the same as and $84,000. The least expensive possible,” McAlister said. Crab Feasts one on the market today is selling To order “Pawleys Island: An Old for $639,000. Man’s Love Story,” send an email to Clam Bakes McAlister’s next big local project [email protected] or call was the development of Belle Isle 843-235-9600. Lobster Parties Sushi Parties or 6 Course Fine Dining

Locals KNOW we are the BEST! For 6 Years In A Row Murrells Inlet Seafood 4886 Highway 17 Business • Murrells Inlet, SC 29576 843.651.9309 • Fax: 843.651.2027 “Our Seafood Was Swimming Yesterday” or MurrellsInletSeafood.net & MurrellsInletSeafood.com COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 30 Beaches BOOKS | ‘Sunset Lodge in Georgetown’ Waccamaw Neck Arts Alliance The whole town’s talking Local Artists

By Charles Swenson him to buy the Boston Red Sox at age Summer Art Show COASTAL OBSERVER 30. Hodges surmises that the con- nection between Yawkey and Weisse Old Town Hall December marked the 50th an- was the brothel in Florence. She set niversary of the closing of Sunset up shop just months before Inter- 321 Myrtle Avenue, Pawleys Island Lodge, a brothel that operated out- national Paper announced plans to side Georgetown near what is now build a mill in Georgetown. Check website for details a county industrial park. Over 33 Hodges discounts stories that years it gained world-wide renown Weisse was recruited to provide a www.scwnaa.org for a port city that projected a glow distraction for construction crews of Southern gentility from beneath building the mill. Nevertheless, the live oaks that shaded its quiet Yawkey told an employee that streets. Weisse repaid her loan quickly. The Presenting the Award Winning Artwork The paradox is at the heart of tie to one of America’s wealthiest “Sunset Lodge in Georgetown: The men accounts for the ability of Sun- of M.P. “Squeaky” Swenson Story of a Madam,” published last set Lodge to flout the law while oth- year. The author, David Hodges, er brothels were closed down, but has put into print a story that has Hodges also credits Weisse’s busi- been talked about – sometimes only ness acumen for her longevity. whispered about – in Georgetown Prostitution was a cash business, County for generations. Beyond Hodge notes, and Georgetown in pulling together individual recollec- the depths of the Great Depression tions that have only become more was cash-poor. He cites census data precious with the passage of time, that put the income from Weisse’s he has given valuable perspective to “boardinghouse” at $3,033 in 1940. David the peculiar institution that was the That’s the equivalent of more than Sunset Lodge. $55,000 today. Hodges also points Hodges | Hodges, an insurance agent and out that was only the revenue she His book rare book collector in Columbia, declared. about seems an unlikely author for such n Sunset a history. “I have been asked many Sunset Lodge was a boon to Lodge times what interested me in this the local economy from the bank began subject, which is a back-handed way where Weisse and her “sporting la- with a talk of asking why a conservative man, dies” deposited their money to the he gave to married 43 years with four children shops on Front Street where they and nine grandchildren, who is an spent it to the cab drivers who took a club. elder at his conservative Presbyte- their customers to the brothel so rian church, would do such a thing,” that the men’s cars wouldn’t be seen. he writes. Weisse was also a generous donor to The answer is: what started the local charities and to state legis- out as a talk for a club 15 years ago lators whom she hosted for a week turned into a storytelling project each spring. then a book. Hodges dug into pub- “Sunset Lodge” provides what lic records to trace the life of Hazel Hodges calls a mosaic of the brothel Weisse from her birth in a small that he distilled from years collect- town in southern Indiana to Chicago ing stories. Every time he gave a talk to a brothel she opened in Florence on the subject, people would come in 1928. When a new mayor cracked forward with stories. Some were down on the brothels in that thriv- first-hand accounts, others had been ing railroad town, Weisse bought the passed along with changing details. house outside Georgetown with a Hodges breaks these into vignettes $2,700 loan from Tom Yawkey. of narrative nonfiction. Yawkey inherited a fortune when In trying to separate fact from fic- he was still a teenager. Another in- tion, he discovered that some mem- heritance included a hunt club on ories of Sunset Lodge were rooted South Island that is now a wildlife in the novel “Keeper of the House” Gray Man Gallery refuge and enough money to allow Continued on Page 31 Preserving Memories Since 1980 10707B Ocean Hwy, Pawleys Island - Next To Bistro 217 843-237-2578 • [email protected] COASTAL OBSERVER Summer 2020 Beaches 31 BOOKS | ‘Beach House Card Tricks’ Sleight of hand

By Chris Sokoloski the first book. He tried every trick he COASTAL OBSERVER was thinking of using to make sure they could be done. For Marc Davison of Litchfield, “I could easily tell pretty quickly playing cards and beach vacations whether or not it was going to fit my go hand-in-hand. criteria,” he said. “My dad was a big card player so Davison re-wrote a lot of the old- we were always playing cards,” Davi- er tricks to make them more mod- son said. ern. “I tried to focus on just the me- When Davison and chanics and boil them down to what his brothers were grow- you really need in order to know it,” ing up in Burlington, he said. N.C., they also liked do- Before Davison’s first book was ing card tricks. released last Christmas, he was al- “We would have a lot ready working on volume two, which of fun doing that,” he was published in May. said. He tested 2,800 tricks to find the After retiring from 103 tricks for the second book. International Paper Co. “It’s got a lot more contempo- six years ago, Davison rary stuff in it. The newer kind of decided to write “Beach tricks from the newer guys and the House Card Tricks” and newer style,” Davison said. “I kind of In the “More Beach House Card Tricks.” raised the bar with the second one. I cards | Davison started by studying card wanted the effects to be even stron- “Anyone tricks from the turn of the century to ger. … They’re both really good, but can do a modern day. the second one has some really cool card trick, “I kind of researched as much as stuff in it.” but it takes I could get my hands on,” Davison Davison’s books also contain some said. “I was looking for tricks that photos of the tricks, a brief history would be perfect for a family and of playing cards and tips on how to practice people who aren’t magicians and perform the tricks better. to perform that can give some really cool effects To order Davison’s card trick a trick,” without a lot of effort.” books, send an email to linda@cl- Davison Davison went through about assatpawleys.com or call 843-235- LEARN TO SURF. says. 2,500 card tricks to find the 105 in 9600. SURF LESSONS

BOOKS | ‘Sunset Lodge in Georgetown’

From Page 30 He made two attempts. there are moral questions by Becky Godwin. It was He met only silence. that need to be raised in any published in 1994 and tells Weisse died in 1974 at discussion of prostitution. the story of “Hazelhedge” age 74. She gave birth to a But in many of the stories through the eyes of a black son at 19 out of wedlock. he recounts, those are ob- maid. Godwin, a former While Hodges was able to scured by a wry humor. PADDLEBOARDS. Pawleys Island resident, trace her family, he doesn’t “One story everyone drew on local sources, but name names. In fact, there knew: the hearse,” he said. SURFBOARDS. used it as a background for are few names used in the In one form or another, a compelling story of social book. Some of his sources it involves a suspicious wife change. were adamant that they who staked out the Sun- KAYAKS. Yet the novel may re- didn’t want their names set Lodge one night after main the best, even if used, he said in an inter- her husband had gone out. imaginary, look inside the view. Others, particularly She didn’t see her husband EQUIPMENT RENTAL brothel. The gap in Hodges’ those who were older, of- leave, but she did see a body book, which he admits up fered no objections. carried out on a stretcher front, is that he was never He opted for discretion. and placed in a hearse. able to contact any of the “It would have been quick- Her husband was home women who worked at Sun- sand,” Hodges said. when she returned; he set Lodge. Hodges acknowledges asked where she had been.

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