In the world of caciocavallo A full immersion in ’s agropastoral culture

“I always feel a huge thrill when I find myself in front of a boiler full of milk, an essential food for mammals, and one that turns into something different, good, healthy, exceptional.” Michele Grassi, The Dairyman’s Manual

Cheese is an essential element on Italian tables and a real delicacy here in Molise, with excellent dairy products created with the milk of locally-reared cattle. Genuine , especially those made with raw milk from pasture-based cattle, are the protagonists of this short, yet intense tour. , treccia, , manteca, macchione and caciocavallo are excellent cheeses that one must savour with eyes closed and observe with eyes wide open during their production process.

With this tour we will spend four days immersed in nature, between farm experiences and tasting sessions of the best products of Molise, spanning from the mountains to the coast. It will be a journey back to the simplicity that makes everything prettier, tastier and even more precious.

PROGRAM

Day 1 Walking, riding and tasting life through cheese

It is not just poetry, it is an intimate and silent journey inside the true world of shepherding, to slowly witness the birth of a formidable cheese made with milk produced from natural grazing. It is about walking behind a herd of sheep to discover that they do not only feed on grass; it is about learning to hear the silence of the mountain recounting enticing stories with the wind; it is about crossing through – on horseback or by foot – the mythical Lucera-Castel di Sangro tratturo, a historical sheep and cattle track that has been traversed by shepherds, peasants and travellers alike for centuries. The immersion of oneself in a territory with a long mountain tradition, being absorbed by the surrounding natural environment and distancing from the frenetic rhythm of every day city life, is essential to rediscover il gusto della vita – the savoury taste of life. Where can you do this? In Castropignano, located in the Biferno valley. There you can find Mario and his family, a group of genuine and cordial who are ready to receive their guests with a bright smile and their indisputable originality. A day of tranquillity learning about an almost lost craft – composed of grazing walks, being in contact with animals, horseback riding, milking and observing milk processes – to later make and finally taste fresh curd cheese. Flavours and emotions that will be taken to the table and enjoyed together with new friends, along with fresh vegetables from the garden and other delicacies from this pleasant corner of Molise: sausage, bread, pizza, pasta, marmalade, pickled preserves, tomato sauce – and many other products – all rigorously made in the farm. Shepherd, craftsman, miller and cheese maker – our friend Mario never stops: he gets up at dawn and goes to sleep only when there is nothing else to do around the farm.

All year long he takes care of the production of artisanal cheese, meat preservation, and sheepherding with horses and hounds, while dedicating those few moments of relaxation to his beloved bagpipe – the zampogna – which he plays since he was a boy.

Let’s dive into this experience! Through movement, sympathy, and good taste we will live an almost magical journey between stories of old and the secrets of a territory where past and present harmoniously blend together.

Day 2 Stracciata, caciocavallo and bells chiming

Each of us will arrive independently to Colle d’Anchise, a little village located in the Biferno valley, at 649 metres above sea level, surrounded by greenery and a peaceful environment. This will be our base during the tour that starts in Capracotta. With an altitude of 1,421 meters above sea level, Capracotta, in the province of Isernia, is the second highest town in the Apennines after Rocca di Cambio. It’s a pretty village known for the copious snowfalls that attract ski enthusiasts during the winter… and sometimes force locals to get out of their homes through the windows! In the summer, the fascinating ski resort of Prato Gentile turns into a spectacular shimmering-green expanse, partly shaded by woods that invite visitors to take a pleasant stroll and get some fresh air. In Capracotta we will visit a small family-run business, whose exquisite cheeses (especially stracciata and caciocavallo) are produced exclusively with the high-quality milk of pasture-based cattle. Afterwards, we will reach an enchanting lodge for an inaugural aperitivo and a light tasting session of dairy products.

Our journey through the culinary delights of Molise will then continue at lunch, when we will feast on traditional local dishes with a contemporary and creative twist in a typical trattoria surrounded by sweeping views over the valley. In the afternoon we will reach Agnone, a lovely village that is home to one of the world’s oldest businesses, the ancient bell foundry Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli. Here we will visit another historic cheese factory and its adjoining Museum of Cheese and Transhumance. Come evening, we will return to the Biferno valley for a buffet dinner with typical local products and overnight.

Day 3 Trekking with the shepherd to discover his secrets

After a tasty and healthy breakfast, we will hit the road to Frosolone (IS), a charming medieval village surrounded by woods, where we’ll take part in a Shepherd’s Trekking with dairy technology expert and renowned food and wine critic Michele Grassi, who will revealed to us the most fascinating aspects of pastoral life, transhumance, milk and its transformation into cheese. When the clock strikes lunchtime, we will enjoy an authentic Shepherd’s Merenda with local products, followed by a -making workshop, always accompanied by Michele Grassi. By the way, do you know what a cheese tasting looks like? Well, we’ll find out in the afternoon, when we’ll learn more about the best pairings and great dairy treats that make for an epic cheese platter. We’ll then go back to the hotel to spend the evening together before some well-earned rest.

Day 4 Cacio cheese meets pizza and a young local beer

After a good breakfast, we head to an area closer to the sea, among the fruitful hills of Casacalenda, in a picturesque village rich in art, history and cultural initiatives. Here we’ll meet an expert technician that will guide us inside his cheese factory to learn about the magic formula of the caciocavallo cheese and snack on some honey, a cheese’s best friend. Taking part in a workshop about the best pairings of local cheese and honey varieties will increase our culinary culture while delighting our palate. We’ll also have lunch in the factory for a fully immersive experience!

Then, it will take only a few minutes to reach the new hotel, where we will spend the last night of the tour with pizza! Under the watchful eye of a captivating and cheerful chef, we will knead a wide range of pizzas, both leavened and unleavened, using flours from Molise, with the utmost regard for health and wellbeing. Pizza will be washed down with the fantastic craft beer produced by a young local brewery. The perfect ending to a truly unique experience!

Day 5 Time to go home :)

After breakfast it’s time to say goodbye and leave.

What’s included in the tour?

 4 nights in “albergo diffuso” formula

 Specialized assistance

 Meals, drinks included

 Shepherd’s trekkings

 Culinary experiences and tastings

 Parking

 Workshops with experts in the field of dairy technology

 Admission to the Museum of Cheese and Transhumance

 Activities/experiences as planned

 Pizza workshop with tasting of local craft beer

What’s not included?

 Extras and personal expenses

 Transfer

Rate

 Price per person starting from 498 €