©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 246

Behind the Scenes

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daughters Ione and Remy, who held the fort at OUR READERS home while I reported in from sundry remote Many thanks to the travellers who used the islands with stories of coral reefs, sunsets and last edition and wrote to us with helpful cold beer. hints, useful advice and interesting anec- dotes: Chris Evans, Inano McMurchy, Iris Hüll, Tamara Sheward Jim Green, Judy Chappell, Kaori Hashimoto, Katherine Lynch, Logan McDaneld, Steve Fa’afetai tele to the wonderful folks of the erst- Waters. while Navigator Isles for all of their invaluable guidance and assistance while researching and travelling for this book. Among hundreds of AUTHOR THANKS others, garlands must go to Maria, Sophie, Jay and Killi in , and Fanua, Cita, Tom and Brett Atkinson Howard in American Samoa. Frangipanis and Meitaki ma’ata to all the friendly Cook Island- South Sea smooches to my two crazy coco- ers I met on my travels, especially Christian nuts, Dušan and Masha. Mani, Nane Teokotai Vainepoto Papa and Daniel Fisher at Cook Islands Tourism in Avarua. On ‘Atiu thanks to Mata Arai, Roger Malcolm, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS and Mareta Atetu, and to Tangata and Teata Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Ateriano on Ma’uke. Final thanks to Carol for Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated sharing this latest South Pacific adventure with World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate me – especially the mammoth tuna sandwiches, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System bush-bashing excitement and lazy sunset Sciences, 11, 163344. cocktails. Cover photograph: Humpback whale, Tonga. Charles Rawlings-Way Maria Teresa Lara/500px © Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig: it had been far too long since I’d experienced the South Pacific any closer than 39,000 feet above the waves. Thanks also to the all-star in-house LP production staff in London and Melbourne, and kudos to my island-addled crew of co-authors (dirty job, someone’s gotta do it, etc). Special praise and adoration as always to Meg and our 247 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Book Designer Wibowo Rusli the following: Assisting Editors Janet This 8th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Tasmin Austin, Katie Connolly, Andrea Planet’s Rarotonga, Samoa & Waby Dobbin Tonga guidebook was re- Coordinating Editor Sarah Cover Researcher Naomi searched and written by Brett Bailey Parker Atkinson, Charles Rawlings-­ Product Editors Grace Dobell, Thanks to Dan Corbett, Joel Way and Tamara Sheward. The Alison Ridgway Cotterell, Laura Crawford, previous edition was written by Diana David Hodges, Lauren Keith, Craig McLachlan, Brett Atkin- Senior Cartographers Von Holdt, Corey Hutchison Kirsten Rawlings, Sarah Reid son and Celeste Brash. This ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 248

Index

A Apia 99-114, 106-7, 116 Alega Beach 151 boat travel 235, 236 accommodation 29-32, see accommodation 103-11 Aleipata 115 books 208, 212 also individual locations drinking & nightlife 112-13 Anaraura 82 Cook Islands 93, 224 activities 20-2, 33-8, see entertainment 113 ‘Ano Beach 193 Samoa 137, 213, 221, 227 also individual locations, food 111-12 Aro’a 58 Tonga 227 individual activities shopping 113-14 Circle-Island Road 82 budget 31-2 adventure tours 63, 190 walks 110, 110 Ha’atafu Beach 177 bus travel 113, 236 air travel 234-5, 235-6 Apolima 123 Hinakauea Beach 193 bushwalking, see hiking Aitutaki 70-7, 71 archaeological sites 12, 211 Houmale’eia Beach 181, 183 business hours 17, see also Aitutaki Lagoon 72 Ha’amonga ‘a Maui Kopupooki (Stomach individual locations alcohol 231 Trilithon 176, 13 Rock) Beach 82 Alofaaga Blowholes 132 Hihifo 182 115 American Samoa 42, 144-63, C House of Rock 131 Lano 126 cafes 231-2 145 Moso’s Footprint 131 Matareva 119 camping 32 accommodation 144, Mu’a 176 Muri 59, 60 161-2 cannibalism 222 Pulemelei Mound 132 Ofu Beach 14, 157, 14 arts 161 canoes 212-13, 228 Saua site 159 Oholei Beach 176 beaches 144 Cape Mulinu’u 13, 131, 13 Tia Seu Lupe 146 One’unga 82 climate 144 Cape Taputapu 147 To’aga site 158 O’otu Beach 72 culture 161, 220-1 car travel 236 architecture 227 Oravaru Beach 79 embassies & consulates American Samoa 163 Palagi Beach 147 162 area codes 17 Cook Islands 97 119 emergencies 162 ariki 214 insurance 236 Saleapaga Beach 118 environment 161 art galleries, see museums Samoa 142 & galleries Si’ufaga 126 festivals & events 162 Tonga 205 arts 226-9 Takauroa Beach 79 food 155 tours 63 Arutanga 71 Taunganui Harbour 79 highlights 145, 145 cargo ships 235, 236 ‘Atata Island 178 Taungaroro 79 history 159-61 cathedrals, see churches & ‘Atiu 77-82, 78 Teoneroa 82 internet access 162 cathedrals ATMs Tikioki 58 itineraries 24, 25, 147, caves American Samoa 162 Titikaveka 58 24, 25 ‘Anahulu Cave 176 Cook Islands 95 language 162 Tukume 82 Anatakitaki 12, 79, 12, 37 Samoa 140 maps 162 Tumai 79 Dwarf’s Cave 130 Tonga 203 money 162 Two Dollar Beach 151 Mariner’s Cave 195 Aunu’u 157 opening hours 162 Utulei 146 Motuanga 82 ’ava 232 telephone services 162 Vaiala Beach 100 Pe’ape’a Cave 129 travel seasons 144 Avarua 46-57, 52-3 Vaiula Beach 119 Piula Cave Pool 116 travel to/from 163 Avarua Landing 87 beer 81, 231 Rima Rau 12, 79 travel within 163 bicycle tours 59-60 Swallows’ Cave 194 bicycle travel, see cycling visas 162-3 B Te Ana O Rakanui 79 animal welfare 193 Bahá’í House of Worship 115 birdwatching 63, 80 Te Rua Rere 87 animals, see individual bark cloth 137, 200 Black Rock 58 Toru a Puru Cave 87 species bathrooms 204 blowholes 132, 176-7 Tuatini Cave 87 beaches 18 blue worms 121 Vai Tango 82 Aganoa Beach 133 boat tours 33 caving 36, 94 Map Pages 000 Aganoa Black Sand Cook Islands 63, 73 cell phones 16 Photo Pages 000 Beach 119 Tonga 169, 183, 189 249 cemeteries tourist information 96 embassies & consulates Samoa 105 Royal Tombs 167 tours 63-4, 97 American Samoa 162 Tonga 168 Shirley Baker Monument travel seasons 44 Cook Islands 94 & European Cemetery travel to/from 96-7 Samoa 140 182 H travel within 97 Tonga 202 Ha’ano 184 children, travel with 39-40 Cook, James 79, 87, 197, emergencies, see individual Ha’apai Group 180-5, 181 Cook Islands 57, 94 214, 215 locations INDEX health 238-9 Samoa 139-40 coral atolls 38 environmental hazards 239 heatstroke 239 Christianity 215-16, 217 coral ear 239 eosinophilic meningitis 238 Heilala Festival 21 churches & cathedrals costs 16-17 etiquette 210, 223, 231  C-I Cathedral of the Holy Henry, Albert 219  crafts 227-9 ’Eua 178-80 highlights 8-15 Family 146 Cross-Island Track 9, ‘Eua’iki 195 hiking 9, 18, 38, Centenary Chapel 167 61-2, 9 ‘Euakafa 195 9 American Samoa 147-51, Cook Islands Christian cruise ships 235 European exploration Church (Avarua) 46 158, 159 cultural centres 213-14 Cook Islands Christian Cook Islands 61-2 Highland Paradise events 20-2, see also Church (Ma’uke) 84 Cultural Centre 58 individual locations Samoa 105, 131, 139 Cook Islands Christian Samoa Cultural Village exchange rates 17 Tonga 179 Church (Mitiaro) 85 100 historic sites Immaculate Conception Te Vara Nui Cultural Abel Tasman Monument Cathedral 101 Village 59 F 177 LMS Church 128 Fafá Island 178 cultural tours 73-4, 169 Arai-Te-Tonga Marae 59 Matavera CICC 59 Fagamalo Cove 159 culture 4, 14, 212, 220-3, ‘Arorangi 58 Mormon Temple 102 232, 14, see also fakaleiti 199 Captain Cook landing St Joseph’s Cathedral individual locations fale 10, 139, 10 site 175-6 186 currency 16 Ruins 131 Highland Paradise CICCs, see churches & customs regulations 94, family life 222-3 Cultural Centre 58 cathedrals 202, 235 ferries 236 Marae Orongo 79 ciguatera 239 cycling 36-7, 236 festivals & events 20-2, Marae Puarakura 82 climate 16, 20-2, 16, Cook Islands 59-60 see also individual Marae Rangimanuka 82 see also individual cyclones 36 locations Marae Takero 85 locations Figiel, Sia 226 Marae Te Apiripiri 79 coffee tours 80 films 208, 214 Marae Vairakai 79 colonisation 216-17 D fish poisoning 239 Para O Tane Palace 46 cone shells 239 dance 226-7 fishing 34-5 Te Pare Fort 85 consulates, see embassies Cook Islands 92 American Samoa 151, Turtle & Shark site 146-7 & consulates Samoa 113 158 history 12, 19, 211-19 Cook Islands 41, 44-97, 47 Tonga 201 Cook Islands 60, 73, colonialism 216-17 accommodation 44, dangers, see safety 80, 87 European contact 213-14 89, 94 dengue fever 238 Samoa 139 independence 217-19 activities 94 diarrhoea 239 Tonga 168, 188 missionaries 214-16 arts 92-3 disabilities, travellers fishing pigs 176 Polynesian settlement climate 44 with 204 flying foxes 177 211-13 culture 14, 92, 14 diseases 238-9 Foa 183-4 hitching 236-7 embassies & diving 18, 34, 35, 239, see Foe’ata 194 also snorkelling holidays consulates 94 Fonuafo’ou 182 American Samoa 147 Cook Islands 96 emergencies 94 food 4, 230-2, see also Tonga 203 environment 93-4 Cook Islands 60-1, 72-3 individual locations hongi 223 festivals & events 95 Samoa 105, 129, 138 fruit 230 food 44, 79 Tonga 168, 179, 187-8, hostels 32 Hufangalupe Archway 176 highlights 47, 47 196 history 91-2 dogs 239 G Hunga 194 drinking water 239 galleries, see museums & internet access 95 galleries drinks 230-2 itineraries 46 gardens I driving, see car travel language 95 ‘Ene’io Botanical Garden independence 217-19 money 95 193 independent travel 32 opening hours 95 E gay travellers 203 insurance 203 postal services 96 earthquakes 135 golf courses car 236 public holidays 96 economy 209-10 American Samoa 152 health 238 telephone services 96 electricity 94 Cook Islands 63 International Date Line 237 250 international investment Manono 123 Tauese PF Sunia Ocean Ofu 14, 157-9, 158, 14 175 Manu’a Islands 156-9 Center 146 Oholei Beach & Hina Cave internet resources 17, 210 maps 140, 162 Vanya Taule’alo Gallery Feast & Show 176 air tickets 235 Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes 101 Old Harbour (Neiafu) 187 island nights 69 176-7 music 227 Olosega 157-9, 158 island time 220 marine parks & reserves, Samoa 137 opening hours 17, see also

INDEX INDEX islands 18, 28-32 see also national parks Tonga 201 individual locations & reserves itineraries 23-7, 23, 24, mythology 224-5 outdoor activities 33-8 25, 26, 27, see also Fagatele Bay National American Samoa 153 ‘Ovalau 195 Marine Sanctuary

I-P individual locations Samoa 132  12, 150 Palolo Deep Marine P  J Reserve 102 N package tours 32 jellyfish 239 Mariner, William 185, 197 Namu’a 118 Pago Pago 10, 145-6, Judds Crater 159 markets 232 national parks & reserves 150, 10 Fagatogo Market 146 209, see also marine Palmerston 77 parks & reserves palolo worms 121 K Fish Market 101 Flea Market 101 A’opo Conservation Pangaimotu Island 178 Kapa 194 Area 131 Maketi Fou 100-1 Papa Neke 86 kava 232 Falealupo Canopy parks & gardens kayaking 11, 35, 11, 35 Punanga Nui Market 15, Walk 131 51, ‘Ene’io Botanical Garden American Samoa 151 15 Lake Lanoto’o National 125 193 Samoa 139 Park 115 Talamahu Market 167 passports 234 Tonga 168, 182-3, 188 Lalomanu Crater 116 ‘Utukalongalu Market Penrhyn 90 King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV Mt Talau National Park 192 photography 204 198-9 187 Masefau 147 Piula Cave Pool 116 kitesurfing 35, 73 Mt Vaea National Massacre Bay 150-1 Reserve 114 planning, see also Matutu Brewery 59 National Park of individual locations L 128 American Samoa 149 accommodation 29-32 lakes Maui Potiki 225 O Le Pupu-Pu’e National activities 33-8 Lake Lanoto’o 115 Ma’uke 82-4, 83 Park 119-20 basics 16-17 Lake Te Roto 79 Maumaukura Lookout 87 Tafua Peninsula budgeting 16-17 Rainforest Preserve 133 Te Rotoiti 85-6 Maungapu 72 calendar of events 20-2 Takitumu Conservation Te Rotonui 85-6 measures 95 children 39-40 Area 63 languages 16, 210, 240-5 medical services 238 countries 41-2 Uafato Conservation Rarotongan 240-1 internet resources 17 Minerva Reefs 177 Area 116-17 Samoan 221, 241-3 missionaries 214-16 islands 28-32 Neiafu 15, 186-93, 191, 15 Tongan 243-4 itineraries 23-7, 23, 24, Mitiaro 84-6, 85 newspapers 95, 141 Lapita culture 212 25, 26, 27 mobile phones 16 Niua Group 195-6 legal matters 203 package tours 32 money 16 Niuafo’ou 196 legends 224-5 regions 41-2 motorcycle travel 58, 236 Niuatoputapu 196 Leone 147 travel seasons 16, 20-2 Mounu 195 Northern Group (Cook leptospirosis 238-9 weather 20-2 Mt Silisili 131 Islands) 89-91 lesbian travellers 203 politics 208-9 Mt Talau 187 Nuapapu 195 LGBT travellers 203 Polynesian culture 4 Mt Tumutumu 158 Nuku’alofa 15, 166-75, Lifuka 181-3 museums & galleries 170-1, 15 Polynesian settlement Lifuka Group 181-6 211-13 Ark Gallery Vava’u 193-4 accommodation 169-73 literature, see books population 209 BCA Art Gallery 46 activities 167-8 Port-au-Prince Massacre Cook Islands Library & drinking & nightlife 174 Monument 182 Museum Society 50 food 173-4 M postal services 96, 175 Mafana 195 Cook Islands Whale & shopping 174 postcolonialism 218 Mala 194 Wildlife Centre 58 sights 167 prepackaged travel 32 130 EFKS Museum 121 tourist information 174-5 Protestants 214-15 Mangaia 86-9, Falemata’aga 101 tours 169 88 public holidays, see Manihiki 90 Jean P Hayden Museum Nukunamo 184 146 holidays National Museum (Cook Pukapuka 90 Islands) 50 O Punanga Nui Market 15, Map Pages 000 Robert Louis Stevenson Oceania Sevens 22 51, 15 Photo Pages 000 Museum 19, 114, 19 ‘Ofu (Tonga) 195, 251 Q highlights 100, 100 time 4, 16, 220, 237, transport 234-7 see also individual Queen Salote 198 history 133-5 travel to/from Rarotonga, internet access 140 locations Samoa & Tonga 234-5 itineraries 101 Tin Can Island 198 travel within Rarotonga, R language 141, 221, 241-3 toilets 204 Samoa & Tonga 235-7 Rainmaker Mountain 147 maps 140 To Sua Ocean Trench 11, trekking, see hiking

Rakahanga 90 115-16, INDEX money 140 11 Triple-headed Coconut Rangimotia 87 Tonga 42, 164-205, Tree 177 opening hours 140 165 accommodation 164, tsunamis 135 Rarotonga 45-70, 48-9 sports 136 202 127 accommodation 50-1, surfing 122, 133  Q-W 64-6 arts 200-1 tumunu 81 telephone services 140  , ,basics 16-17 basics 16-17 turtles 138, 161, 201 tourist information 141 2 12 climate 44 climate 164 Tutuila 145-56, tours 102-3 148 drinking & nightlife culture 199-200 accommodation 152-3 travel seasons 98 55-6, 69 disabilities, travellers drinking & nightlife travel to/from 141-2 entertainment 69 with 204 153-5 travel within 142-3 food 51-4, 66-9 diving 187-8 entertainment 155 visas 141 itineraries 56 embassies & consulates food 153-5 Samoan language 221, shopping 56-7, 69-70 202 shopping 155 241-3 travel seasons 44 emergencies 202 travel to/from 156 Savai’i 123-33, 124-5, 128 travel to/from 45 environment 201 travel within 156 sea kayaking 11, 35, , , travel within 45-6 11 35 festivals & events 190 see also kayaking Rarotongan language 240-1 food 164, 192, 202 sea snakes 239 religion 209, 220-3 highlights 165, 165 U seafood 230 ‘Uiha 185 reserves, see marine parks history 197-9 sharks 239 Uoleva 184-5 & reserves, national insurance 203 siapo 228 parks & reserves internet access 203 99-122, 102-3, 116 resorts 29-30 snorkelling 18, 36, 37, see itineraries 167 also diving restaurants 231-2 language 204, 243-4 American Samoa 151 V Royal Palace 167, 15 legal matters 203 va’a 212 Cook Islands 60-1 Royal Residences 175 money 203 vacations, see holidays sports 136, 210 Royal Tombs 167 opening hours 203 vaccinations 238 staph infection 239 public holidays 203 Vai Marere 84 star mounds 151 religion 199-200 Vai Nauri 84 S Stevenson, Robert Louis safety 139 114, 117 safe travel 203 vaka 212-13, 2 sailing 187 Vaka Eiva 22 Cook Islands 94 surfing 9, 36, 8-9 telephone services diving 35 Samoa 105, 122, 133, 139 Valley of Giants 159 203-4 food 231 Tonga 168, 169 Vava’u Group 185-95, toilets 204 hitching 236-7 Suwarrow 91 188-9 tourist information 204 vegetables 230 Tonga 203 swimming 36 tours 189-90 Sa’ilele 147 vegetarian travellers 232 travel seasons 164 sailing 19, 35 visas 16, see also individual travel to/from 204-5 locations Cook Islands 62 T Tafahi 196 travel within 205 volcanoes Tonga 187 Tangaroa 224-5 visas 204 Kao 187 Saleapaga 118-19 tap water 239 volunteering 204 Mt Matavanu Crater Salelologa 125-8 tapa 228 women travellers 204 128-9 Samoa 42, 98-143, 100, 5 Tapuaeta’i 72, 31 work 204 Tofua 187 accommodation 98, 138 tattoos 137, 154, 228 Tongan language 243-4 volunteering 204 activities 105, 138-9 Ta’u 159, 160, 19 Tongatapu 166-78, arts 136-7 168-9 taxis 237 tourist information 96, basics 16-17 W Te Maeva Nui 21 141, 204 climate 98 walking, see hiking Te Pa’ata Lookout 87 tours 235, see also culture 135-6 walking tours 110, 110 telephone services 16, individual tours embassies & consulates water slides (natural) see also individual American Samoa 152 140 Papase’ea Sliding Rocks locations Cook Islands 63-4, 80, emergencies 140 114-15 Te-Toa-A-Morenga 82-3, 86, 87 water sports environment 137-8 Lookout 87 Samoa 102-3 Cook Islands 62, 94 festivals & events 140 Teuila Festival 22 Tonga 169, 189 Tonga 188 food 98, 140 traditions 220-3 252 waterfalls weather 16, 20-2, 16, women travellers 204 Afu-A-Au Falls 133 see also individual woodcarving 229 Nu’uuli Falls 146 locations work 204 Papapapai-tai Falls 115 weaving 228-9 WWI 217 Papase’ea Sliding Rocks websites, see internet WWII 200, 217-18 114-15 resources

INDEX INDEX Sopo’aga Falls 117 weddings 66 Togitogiga Waterfalls 120 weights 95 Y Wigmore’s Waterfall 58 Weil’s disease 238-9 whales 36, 189, 193 yachts 235 W-Y  

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 253 NOTES

NOTES 254 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Brett Atkinson From his home in Auckland, Brett has travelled to many of the islands in his South Pacific backyard. For this extended research trip to the Cook Islands, he snorkelled and scootered around Aitutaki, drank bush beer and organic coffee on ‘Atiu, and explored Rarotonga on two and four wheels with his wife, Carol. Brett has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels.

Charles Rawlings-Way As a likely lad, Charles suffered in school shorts through Tasmanian winters: ice on the Hobart puddles, snow on Mt Wellington… He dreamed of one day exploring tropical isles with a more humane climate. After dropping a windsurfer mast on a Texan tourist’s head in Fiji in 1985 and chasing rats around an Aitut- atki guesthouse in 2005, a trip to see what Tonga had to offer was well overdue. Charles has penned 30-something Lonely Planet guidebooks, and remains pathologically fixated on the virtues and vices of travel.

Tamara Sheward Despite a hearty dislike of heat and humidity – not to mention that pesky mango allergy – Tamara not only lives in the tropics, but enjoys travelling them exten- sively. While researching the South Pacific, she rode in 50-plus boats, 14 aero- planes, umpteen rattly open-air buses and one submarine; alas, no similar tally was kept on kava and coconut consumption. In addition to the islands in this book, Tamara has covered an incongruous miscellany of countries for Lonely Planet, including Serbia, northern Australia, Bulgaria and Russia.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – December 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 217 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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