“All the News That Fits on the Page”

VOL. III . . No. 2 REYKJAVÍK, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2005 YOUR FREE COPY SUPPORTS WAR IN IRAQ “16% is a lot, considering we are a small country” explains Prime Minister Ásgrímsson

In a foreign affairs move so bold and decisive make himself a part of the intimate alliance it got the attention of the entire nation, former between the two leaders graces. Ásgrímsson Foreign Minister (and current Prime Minister) says that the planned North Atlantic meeting, Halldór Ásgrímsson ingeniously streamlined when he will sail out in the naval vessel Týr to the foreign relations process by eliminating meet the president onboard the USS Nimitz, the tedious and often unsatisfactory step of will take place any day now. putting decisions before parliament first. In To further strengthen the Atlantic Alliance, addition, this move has shown great foresight: the Prime Minister has handed President Bush a full 16% of the country now backs the deci- a written statement promising full Icelandic sion to go to war with Iraq, and it only took support for the invasion of a country of his 20 months to convince them. This well-spring choice, the blank space to be filled out at the of support in such a short time has been very President’s discretion. encouraging for the ruling party. “You can’t say we don’t listen to the voice of the minority Khatami-Ásgrímsson summit meeting in anymore, can you?” said Ásgrímsson. Switzerland President Khatami of Iran, upon hearing that Atlantic Alliance strengthened Iceland would back a potential invasion of The Atlantic Alliance between Ásgrímsson is Iran, immediately requested an audience with reminiscent of the one between World War Icelandic Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson. Two leaders Churchill and Roosevelt. Then, A summit meeting is to be held in Switzerland the awkward third wheel was an infamous this month. “Our fate is in your hands,” he said communist known as Uncle Joe. This time, to Icelandic reporters before bordering the some guy named Tony is constantly trying to plane to Geneva. Fashion-conscious and combat ready Protest Cancelled The Grapevine platoon are gearing up to take part in military operations in Iraq but remain unwilling to settle for the drab, dreary and (let’s face it) MP’s give Robber asked Due to Lunch depressing olive green or beige that soldiers in the region often wear. For this Seem too reason, they’ve put together these prototypes of weapons they will be using themselves a to give some A group of protestors who had planned on as- in the field of combat. “This is a great day for fashion,” said one designer. sembling in front of parliament to voice oppo- ridiculous to be sition to Iceland’s support of the war in Iraq “Finally, we can show that we can combine sassy patterns and urban combat raise money back discovered at 11:30 this morning that it was maneuvers.” 11:30 in the morning. “Lacking any reasonable true? amount of time to prepare before noon,” said one would-be protestor, “we had no choice but The Icelandic parliament has recently passed An armed robber made away with a five thou- to postpone the demonstration and go to Ruby a law which states that they will now start sand krónur bill from a Shell gas station in Tuesday’s.” The group is still sorting out their Kim Il Jong Congratulates Iceland receiving their pensions on the day they get Garðabær, and attempted to make his escape schedules for the rest of the week amongst Kim Il Jong, the “Dear Leader” of North Korea, told a group of reporters at a statue unveiling in elected to parliament. This will be in addition by calling a taxi. He was arrested by police themselves, but they seem optimistic about his honour, “I also want to take this opportunity to congratulate the Prime Minister of Iceland for to their regular wages as MP’s. “This is done and sentenced to give half the money back, demonstrating sometime next Thursday, pro- demostrating what true leadership is. A true leader will demonstrate that he can make decisions in order to make it easier for parliament mem- which was later commuted to giving a quarter For the real story, vided that weather forecasts remain favour- by himself. A true leader also knows what is best for his country - in fact, he knows the people bers to leave politics. We’re sure the people of the money back. The taxi driver was fired as able. better than they know themselves, as my father used to say.” will support that,” an Alþingi spokesman said. a warning to others. see inside

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ISSUE TWO: FEBRUARY 11 - MARCH 10, 2005 Articles 06 Do debts encourage students to study? Politicians and candidates for rector state their positions on University fees 08 Kárahnjúkar: Colder than Portugal and a Long Way from China. nationalities are at work damming the highlands. How are they doing? 10 Living the Good Life on a Minimalist Budget Is it possible to dress cheaply in Reykjavík? COMPLETE WINTER LIGHTS FESTIVAL LISTINGS INSIDE 38 Watson the Victor Does terrorism in Iceland pay off Feature : The Price of Hesitation The Reykjavík Grapevine crew The Reykjavík Grapevine 13 Why are we at war with Iraq? Hafnarstræti 15, 2nd floor And why has it taken so long to ask? www.grapevine.is [email protected] 14 Making Sense of the Chaos Published by: Bazar ehf. An Icelandic nurse in Baghdad tries her best. Editors: 561-2323 / 845-2152 / [email protected] Metaphysics Advertising: 561-2300 / 869-7796 / [email protected] Distribution: 562-1213 / 898-9249 / [email protected] Production: 561-2329 / 849-5611 /[email protected] 16 Religion Without God Can there be? Listings: 562-1213 / 869-7796 / [email protected] Subscription: 561-2329 / 849-5611 /[email protected] Arts & Culture Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Valur Gunnarsson / [email protected] Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / 17 Echoes of the Past, Echoes of the Future Marketing director: Fashion to furniture, architecture to amulets [email protected] Production manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / 20 Voices in the Waterfalls [email protected] endangered waterfalls Creative director: Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] Staff Journalist: Paul Fontaine-Nikolov / [email protected] 31 More Money than You’ll Ever See Again Advertising sales: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / The best protected art exhibit in Iceland [email protected] Harpa Katrín Gísladóttir / [email protected] usic & ightlife Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / M N [email protected] Photographs: Hörður Sveinsson / [email protected] Sea Change 22 Guðmundur Freyr Vigfússon / [email protected] Curver’s album is not made for the trashcan Proofreader: Erika Wolfe 23 Teabags and Tunes Copy Editor: Bart Cameron Sigríður came to Iceland in 1949. She’s still making albums Distribution: Jóhann Páll Hreinsson

Cover Photo used: Ladies Weapons by Antonio Riello Outside Reykjavík Cover concept by: Bomban and Simon LeBon Thanks to: The nice people at the Times of New York for 30 The Westman Island’s inspiring us Puffins, Pirates and Killer Whales Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. On tour # of copies: 30.101 32 Barcelona We are always looking for articles. Great Scenery, Tragic History Send your submissions to : [email protected]

On your left is a declaration that was printed in The New York Times on the 21st of January 2005. Donations from the Icelandic public paid for its publication. It’s printed in real size here, so Icelanders and others can see for themselves how it looks. Feel free to pull it out of Grapevine and use as a poster. For further information go to www.thjodarhreyfingin.is LETTERS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money in new, unmarked bills, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Dear Mr. Gunnarsson, Paul knows you. Say hello to Paul. Paul, say hello go David. Paul: “Hello David.” And try the link again. It should be Greetings! My name is Amia Srinivasan, and I’m a working. second-year student at Yale University in the U.S., though I studied and continue to live in London. Over I will start by saying I am half-Icelandic and half- New Year’s I had the good fortune to spend some time in African American. I am glad to see that two children can Reykjavik with my family, and was really blown away by speak their mind, however uninformed and uneducated the natural beauty and unique culture of Iceland. While they sound. I am also appalled at how these two I’ve lived in and visited many countries in Asia, Europe, youngsters do not know that non–white people fought, the Middle East, and the Americas, Iceland really took bled and died so they would have the chance to be so my breath away. Outside of the modern art museum ignorant. I know that when they say “we” they refer to there, I chanced upon a copy of the Reykjavik Grapevine, a minority of “white” people that do not realize that and immediately read it cover to cover--I found it fresh, African people along with Asian people helped build sharp, and amusing, and was thoroughly impressed by the with hard slave labour (yes, the Asians your young venture. built railroads that connected the east to the west and the Africans farmed the lands that made the south so rich), All the best, and to simply say “we just do not want them around” is not good enough. Amia Srinivasan White America did that with the American Indian. Yale University The tribes that were not completely wiped out by this genocidal force were given an “area to stay “ “because Aye, forget Asia, Europe (the rest of it), the Middle East and they were born there” Mighty white of them! This the Americas. The Reykjavík Grapevine is all you need. separatist ideal did not work then and it will not work now. If this minority of separatists doesn’t think so, then Hi, maybe they should have their own reservations where I was reading my Grapevine and noticed the article about they can inbreed amongst themselves, revert into deep Nightmare Before Christmas/Martröð á jólanótt (page depression, rampant alcoholism and then we will see how 19). How do I get tickets to see this show? Where is it they feel about it in years to come. Lest I forget; they playing? I planned on trying to go to the 23.Jan show. already have a lot of those, they’re called trailer parks. Also, thanks to Paul Nikolov for the awesome politician quiz. I took the quiz and I was Steingrímur Sigfússon Frank Lárus Sullivan (no surprise). Thank you. James Barlow I think and hope most Icelanders are. Sandgerði Some belated response to Chris Shillock’s article in the Sorry man, it’s over now. Maybe they’ll make a film of it December issue, “Why the Bush regime will bomb Iraq someday. but never ban abortion.”

Hi, can you send me information about this jiu jitsu? Chris, Takk With all my heart I hope you are right about “the Birna dangerous game” they’re playing with Southern Fundamentalists and the backlash. On the other hand Take opponent, squeeze throat until head turns purple and he you would think that lying to the American people about starts singing “The Final Countdown” by Europe. Repeat. WMD and too many other things to mention would have caused a backlash as well. Watching Bush et al this Dear Editor: election I began to wonder, “What does this guy have to I was so moved by the ad in the New York Times I did DO to lose? Kick a dog? Rape a toddler on prime time?” not know what to do; the website listed had no contact Moore may be right about the baseball statistics but I address, and only the link to your publication had a don’t know...Anyway the piece was great, really enjoyed contact on it. it.

It is so nice to know that Icelanders enjoy living in a vital Chris, democracy and that one can be proud to be an Icelander. In the Grapevine piece the analogy between American I have only one question: How can I be one too? attitudes to the war and the psychology of an abused woman is worth mining a little further, and your Mickey Davis characterization “fascism lite” towards the end of the Professor of Law article reminds me of Arendt’s famous remark about the Cleveland State Univ. banality of evil. Again, I think you’ll find it useful to read the two books Come over, play a game of chess, leave wait 30 years, break of George Lakoff in order to get more insight into some international law, and you’re half there (or here). Look the two, usually competing, ‘frames’ of mind of many forward to seeing you around. Americans. Bush may be a charismatic imbecile but Karl Rove and Grover Norquist are highly intelligent A friend gave me this address, and I’d love to find borderline personalities (aka psychopaths) as insightful as out who in Iceland even knows me! I saw the issue Machiavelli. of Grapevine that had something about the ten or so Tom Shillock Americans who would be forgotten in ten years (or was it already forgotten - I don’t have the paper in front of me). It makes Brave New World and 1984 look like bedtime Anyway, this is from snow-bound Manhattan, hope stories, doesn’t it? Personally I think I am going to retreat to hear from someone there. Tried to check out www. into the mindless world of Porno for a while were I can’t grapevine.is but could not access it. see the world upset about tsunamis, as if millions haven’t been dying in Africa for a long time. Peace, Sharol David PS - For a little-known perspective on what we are doing in Iraq, take a look at this one: David McReynolds http://www.gene.ch/genet/2004/Oct/msg00040.html [email protected]

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com EDITORIAL 5 by Valur Gunnarsson BOMBING-STARVATION-BOMBING: Why don’t the Iraqis love the US?

When I first went to Saudi-Arabia The Cold War divided the Middle war. However, the US Army stopped so the Americans did not leave the the oil supplies they had previously in the summer of 1991, they hailed East, with the US and the USSR at the border of Iraq, only to resume Middle East. US soldiers in the sold willingly. And it is no longer me as liberator. Granted, they pouring arms into their client states. its offensive more than a decade neighbourhood of the holy cities of safe for Westerners to walk the mistook me for an American. These But, unlike previous “protectors,” later. Having encouraged the Iraqi Mecca and Medina, the starvation streets of Riyadh, as I once did. Back days, if Europeans are mistaken for the US did not keep a large standing people to rise up against the dictator, of Iraq and intermittent bombings, in 1991. But that was during another Americans in the Middle East, they army in the region. US support for the Americans now stood by as the the continuing occupation of era. tend to be shot on sight. This says Israel angered many Arabs, and US rebels were massacred by Saddam’s Palestine by US supported Israel; something about the results of US marines were killed in Beirut and forces. A historical parallel could all these factor combined to breed Grapevine will be back on the streets policy in the past decade and a half. even in Germany. Still, when the be the Red Army stopping on the resentment, then hatred. The hatred on March 11th. It’ll be the 20th issue After the end of World War US forces entered Kuwait 1991, it Vistula in 1944. As the population simmered, then exploded. so far, and the last Grapevine I’ll Two, when the European powers was seen, by most Arabs, as a good of Warsaw rose up to get rid of Now, the US keeps a large standing edit. For now. Until then... retreated from the Middle East, the thing. Why may explain why I was their oppressors, Stalin ordered his Army in the Middle East, guarding Americans did not waste time in met with feelings of friendship and troops to wait while Hitler’s forces taking their place. This was, by and gratitude on the streets of Riyadh. levelled the city and massacred large, seen as a good trade off by the the Poles. Only after the Nazis local populations. The Americans Taking a tip from Stalin? had re-established control did the weren’t obsessed with colouring the Sure, Kuwait was carved out of the Russians take the city. It has often map pink or blue, as were the British Ottoman Empire by the British for been supposed that Stalin made his and the French who had come oil reasons. And the Emir is not the decision to make the Poles more before. The belief that the US was world’s most democratic leader. But, pliant in the aftermath of the war, a new type of Great Power seemed the people of Kuwait were not doubt having been bled to death by Hitler. justified when, in 1956, The British better off without Saddam than Surely, the Americans would never and French, in a final bid to reassert under his control. And Saddam’s do such a thing in the Middle East. their dominance, invaded Egypt with invasion of Kuwait was a clear Israeli assistance. Not only did the example of one country attacking Memories from another era US not take part in the invasion, it another. The US attack on Iraq in But just as the Red Army did not forced their allies to withdraw. 1991 was, as these things go, a just abandon territories it had liberated,

Maurizio Us and them

By Sy the thinkers were thinking anymore. The thinkers didn’t even know what the hell they were thinking. Everybody Western Civilisation thinks in term of binary opposites. was quoting each other quoting each other. The poets There’s black and white, left and right, men and women, wrote about poetry rather than about the world. Nothing us and them, truth and lies. This was particularly made sense. The whole of Western civilisation was apparent during the Cold War. There was red and blue, disappearing into a bottomless pit of Post-Modernism. East and West, communists and, well, peace loving And then, September the 11th happened. We had an democrats. Us and them. Our truth, their lies. Then, in enemy again. There was a them again, and an us. A good 1989, it all collapsed. The wall came down. There was and an evil. But, somehow, the line between truth and no them anymore. So who was the Us? What was the lies are not that apparent any more. U.S.? Along with the Berlin Wall, Western thought virtually collapsed overnight. Nobody understood what 6 DO DEBTS ENCOURAGE STUDENTS TO STUDY? However, those who protest the measures will do to ensure the increase say that the ‘so-called competitiveness of our students and registration fee’ should be called by our country. University fees would its real name – admission fee. This definitely discourage students from increase in the registration fee looks studying.” like a sign that the government is trying rid itself of its commitment to Professor Kristín Ingólfsdóttir, providing free university education. deputy head of Faculty of Pharmacy, In the meantime the students suffer. LÍN does not lend money for registration nor do students get money from LÍN until they have received their first-term marks. Instead they rely on banks to tide them over.

What do the candidates have to say? Four hopeful candidates are currently

Gúndi running in an election for the rector’s position at the University of Iceland that takes place March 10th. So what opinions do they have on the issue of The Icelandic Parliament passed a bill last December that allows state universities to increase their student fees? annual registration fee by nearly 40% from the previous year. This marks a departure from the past, when the State encouraged students to pursue university education in two ways: Firstly by not charging Professor Ágúst Einarsson, head says: “I denounce the idea of an admission fee, and secondly by making student loans available to students through the Icelandic of the Faculty of Economics and charging students a fee for studying Student Loan Fund (LÍN). As the number of university students has increased by nearly 50% in only Business Administration at the university on the grounds that university education should six years, financial issues regarding the funding of universities have become more pressing. be affordable to all. Should it “It Encourages Them to Appreciate become necessary in the future Movement begs to differ. “All talk Relying on Banks rather than Books Their Studies More” to charge students, an agreement of fees encouraging the students to Ms. Hjartardóttir argues that the Government MP Drífa work harder suggests that students would have to be made with LÍN Hjartardóttir, who has long student loan fund will soften the to accommodate such changes. In are not taking their studies seriously blow for students. “The Iceland experience with administering at present. Our basic policy on any case, society would have to pick education at all levels in Iceland, is Student Loan Fund will continue to up some of the tab for university this issue is that the right of equal assist students in their educational of the opinion that: “students should educational opportunities should be education anyway as it also costs pay a greater proportion of the cost pursuit, and prevent students who society to extend affordable loans to guaranteed, regardless of students’ have limited financial capabilities of their own university education personal finances. Any increase in students.” Ingólfsdóttir would like than in the past. It is important from being denied university to see a fundamental change at the registration or admission fees at the education on the grounds of that students pay a reasonable part University of Iceland is contrary to university. “The government needs of their own education because it poverty.” to acknowledge the importance our policy.” Mr Gíslason says there It is true that the amount itself encourages them to appreciate their are no two ways about it; fees of of university education. Instead studies more, and to work harder.” that students need to pay for of bickering about the school any kind “discourage people from ‘registration’ or ‘admission’ is still not Opposition deputy MP Mr Atli studying at the university.” declined to comment. On his fees, we should be turning our Gíslason of the Left-Green high considering many countries. election campaign website, however, attention towards developing the he states that he is “against curriculum and expanding research.” charging undergraduates.” His Ingólfsdóttir is not just the only opinion is different when it comes female candidate, but in fact the first to graduates, as he states on his female candidate ever to run for this website: “A moderate fee may be position. suitable at certain departments at the University. The most pressing Professor Jón Torfi Jónasson from issue for the university is to get the Faculty of Social Sciences and a more funding from the government; scholar on education and educational similar to the financial support theory, universities in the Nordic countries receive. I was first to point this out in public some ten years ago.” That said, rector Páll Skúlason stated in an interview, published on the university’s website on October 26th 2003 that Professor Einarsson was instrumental in the move to adopt school fees at the graduate level at the university.

Professor Einar Stefánsson, former dean of Faculty of Medicine,

expects society to pay for university education at undergraduate and graduate level – not individual students. “Society has agreed upon fostering university education,” he explains. “This agreement is now being challenged in some places. In my capacity as a rector, I would advocate the importance of university education for the reason says: “University students in most that university education is a vital countries do not pay for their catalyst for progress in today’s graduate studies. Further, I am of modern society.” Professor Jónasson the opinion that the state should feels it is acceptable to charge some allocate more money for university students. “Demand for education at education. Currently, the Nordic all levels has increased steadily and countries and the USA spend more the university should be allowed than double the amount of money to accept fees for certain types of in percentage of GDP than Iceland continuing education, as companies does.” Professor Stefánsson speaks can clearly gain from sending their of Iceland’s position in a European professionals to us for knowledge context. “Universities must adapt update for which they should be to progress. Our graduates are prepared to pay.” competing in a labour market of some 400 million people. No half by Stefán Helgi Valsson Miðhraun 11 Garðabæ - Glerárgata 32 Akureyri also availableKringlan in selectedReykjavík shops - Lækjargata around Iceland. 4 Reykjavík - Faxafen 12 Reykjavík It’s called“outside”. you absolutelymustwearclothesfrom66ºNorth. There isthisoneplaceinIcelandwhere Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

JÓNSSON & LE’MACKS • jl.is 8

KÁRAHNJÚKAR: Accommodation provided by �� Impregilo for its workers was ����� substandard for a long time. Two people shared a small room, there Halldór Not Worried was no communal area, and the Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson cafeteria was too small, both as far remains undaunted by the results as kitchen staff and Kárahnjúkar of a recent Fréttablaðið poll show- workers were concerned. Conditions ing that respondents consider him have now improved, but some the least trusted person in poli- of the new buildings are still tics, second only to Foreign Minis- prone to frost and leakage. Even the ter Davíð Oddsson. Oddly enough, new dining area, which was heralded Oddsson was also shown to be the at the time as a vast improvement, most trusted person in politics. Only was criticized at a recent site visit by 3.8% of respondents said the same Impregilo executives from Italy. about Prime Minister Ásgrímsson, While it was still in the planning who said that polls are always go- stage, in a time of increasing ing up and down “but this is some- unemployment, the authorities thing that we´ll sail through.” promised that dam construction would provide jobs for Icelanders. Copywriting “Iceland” And, although Impregilo said Reaching across party lines, Leftist- they would employ some of their Green party chairman Steingrímur previous employees who had J. Sigfússon and Progressive party experience of working on dam sites, member and acting Foreign Minis- the Icelandic government promised ter Geir H. Haarde both agreed that the Confederation of Icelandic the food market chain “Iceland” Labour that the ratio of Icelanders should not be allowed to copyright to foreigners would be approximately the word “Iceland” in European 80:20. Union countries. Steingrímur also pointed out that Baugur owns most A Long Way from China... of Iceland (the food market chain) This, however, is not the case. and recommended the government Colder Than Portugal Impregilo itself now employs only encourage Baugur to withdraw its about 100 Icelanders out of 1100 intentions to copyright “Iceland.” employees. Impregilo says that and a Long Way From China Icelanders do not want to work Sex With 287 there and the turnover is very high, A new American research report One Fatality So Far but one reason for this could be which studied the sex lives of Before construction started, Kárahnjúkar dam in the highlands One important issue revolves around that much higher salaries are paid young people found that the aver- of eastern Iceland was highly controversial. But the Environment safety issues in general and training for similar work elsewhere. Other age teenager has sex, indirectly, with 287 other people. The study Minister overturned the Planning Authority’s rejection of the qualifications of foreigners working European workers do not stay at the site. All long either, so concludes among other things environmental impact statement, and the project was put out workers at power KÁRAHNJÚKAR STATS Impregilo are that this points to a grave danger to tender. Three of the six companies who applied subsequently of the spread of sexually transmit- plant sites must (SUBJECT TO CHANGE): now resorting withdrew their offers, on the basis that the project was too risky. The work to a standard to bringing in ted diseases among young people. Infectious disease specialist Dr. Italian firm Impregilo tendered for a substantially lower amount agreement, part of Employees: 2585 persons workers from Haraldur Briem commented on the which states that outside the than the others; their offer was accepted, and work at the site began study, saying that using a condom the workers must Icelanders: 450 EU, primarily not long afterwards. But so far the project has been one disaster after have qualifications China, much to was “the only protection.” About 2000 Icelanders every year con- another. approved by Europeans (total): 1701 the anger of the the Icelandic Icelandic trade tract chlamidya. authorities. (Thereof) Portuguese: 193 union movement. Impregilo is Because they US Military to Compensate Icelanders unwilling to Non-Europeans: 434 receive a much comply with these higher salary than After hearing both sides of a case concerning a breach of a labour rules, instead (Thereof) Chinese: 237 they would do saying that most back in China, contract, the Reykjavík District Court ruled that the United States of their overseas 80 new work permits were and because they military must pay 20 to 30 Icelan- workers are highly given out last week for non-EC would have to pay dic employees of the NATO base experienced workers. the prohibitive cost and that long of a flight back to 120 to 130 thousand krónur each. experience makes China themselves Many Icelandic workers from the up for lack of formal qualifications. if they decided to leave before the NATO base have complained that And there was a fatal accident at end of the 5.5 month contract, different aspects of their contracts, Kárahnjúkar last March. Chinese workers are more likely to such as overtime, were not hon- stay. oured by the base. The case was Sleeping Rough held up for some time as questions ...And Somewhat Colder than arose over whether grievances Portugal should be filed with the base or the Approximately 150 Portuguese Foreign Ministry. employees also work on the site, recruited through an employment The Suðurnes Cat Plan agency in Portugal subcontracted Officials in Suðurnes have devised by Impregilo. These employees at a new way of managing stray cats. one point were stuffing newspaper Every cat owner will register their in their shoes because they had cats and receive a “permanent not been provided with adequate mark” that the cat must wear at all footwear. Allegations are now times, at a cost of 15,000 krónur. If afoot that the Portuguese receive a cat is caught and has a county-is- lower wages, as Impregilo has not sued tag, the cat is released. If the been deducting the full amount of cat doesn´t have a county-issued tax from their salaries because the permanent mark, the cat is kept Portuguese have to pay tax back in for up to a week before being put Portugal. down unless claimed by its owner. Landsvirkjun has also contracted The owner will then be charged out some of the work to a few other 1,400 krónur per day that the cat Icelandic companies, one of which, was held in addition to a flat 5,000 Arnarfell, employs virtually only krónur care fee. For more on why Icelanders while Fossverk employs this plain is wrong, go to 20 foreigners out of a total staff of http://www.grapevine.is/ 110. Neither Arnarfell nor Fossverk ?show=newsstory&id=133. have difficulty recruiting and keeping workers, which perhaps says something about Impregilo. by Lowana Veal * 15% discount for VISA cardholders.

Our sponsors are: 10 WONDERINGS LIVING THE GOOD LIFE ON A MINIMALIST BUDGET

“Grant me two coins, one to buy bread would also like to recommend two fairly and sate my hunger, the other to buy a new and exciting weekend flea markets. flower and enjoy the beauty of life.” As One is located in the backyard of the a student in the city I have sought out bar Sirkús. There, many of the Sirkús ways to live a luxurious life despite my regulars sell all kinds of stuff, but mostly meager income. Eating is a primary need their unique second-hand clothing. The so let’s begin with grocery shopping. other one is situated at the artists’ haven Bónus, Krónan and Europris are all and gallery Klink og Bank. There you supermarket chains that cut down the can find used and new clothing, garage cost of running their stores to a bare sales, T-shirts, live music and they have minimum and consequently are able to all kinds of happenings. Some artists sell offer comparatively low prices. These their products there and hairstylists even stores can be found all over the city. offer haircuts. The great thing about Drinking beer is no primary need, (It this market is that anyone is welcome to isn´t? Now they tell me –ed.) but I’m bring his or her own stuff to sell, free of adding it to the list anyway. Many bars charge. have special beer offers, but those are The Tiger stores at Laugavegur and hard to pinpoint because the landscape Kringlan sell stuff at only two prices: of cheap beer is an ever-changing one. 200kr. and 400kr. There you can buy Some places usually have low prices, all kinds of small stuff like stationery, for example Nelly’s Café and Kaffi Vín. toiletries, jewelry, lighters, candles, Gaukur á Stöng offers beer for 290kr. pottery, batteries, make up, underwear, for students all winter, and I have heard socks, etc. Góði hirðirinn at Fellsmúli of three beers for 1000kr. at Kaffi Kósý. sells used furniture and household items. The key to getting cheap beer is to keep All the profits go to charity. You can your eyes and ears open. get good furniture at very low prices Now on to other needs: I just love and some antique items. I once got a treasure hunting and clothes shopping beautiful cupboard there for free. at the flea markets. The biggest one in If you like gardens and museums, Reykjavík is Kolaportið at Tryggvagata. then The Botanical Garden of Reykjavík There you can find an all-Icelandic food is ideal for a calming stroll. The National section, used books, homemade Icelandic Gallery of Iceland offers free admission crafts, used and new CDs, videotapes, on Wednesdays. And last but not least clothing, garage sales, exotic products – my favourite – The Garden of Einar from all over the world and much more. Jónsson. Containing some beautiful Kolaportið is open on weekends. If you sculptures by Einar Jónsson, the garden want an all Icelandic knitted sheep’s wool is situated near Hallgrímskirkja with an sweater, then you just might find one at entrance from Freyjugata. It is always a reasonable price at Kolaportið or at the open and admission is free. There you used clothing shops run by the charities can just about feel that the best things in

Gúndi The Red Cross (Laugavegur) and life truly are free. The Salvation Army (Garðastræti). I

COLUMN THE TYRANNY OF DISTANCE As an islander at the edge of the inhabitable world, I have a natural need to explore other countries. I have wanderlust in my marrow. In order to know myself I need to be a nobody. That is impossible in Iceland, where it feels everyone knows everyone.

It used to be terribly expensive to get away from here. There were only flights available through one airline and a ferry that only sailed during the short summer to Denmark and Norway. This has all changed in the last few years and we as a nation don’t see ourselves as isolated as before, but the rest of the world does. I have lived in New Zealand, and that is at the end of the world as I know it, but Iceland is right between Europe and America. It is closer to New York than L.A. is. But we are still under the spell of the tyranny of distance. What I discovered on my journeys in cyberspace was that as much as we make fun of the ignorance of the North Americans, we are no better. We are simply ignorant in different areas. I see us as high tech aborigines, and we don’t know how to deal with how quickly we moved off the dirt floors to the techno houses. When I jumped on the wave into the interspace of the Internet, my life changed forever. I became part of a much greater world than I had imagined possible. I discovered a medium to travel without going anywhere. I learned to use the Internet to work with people from all over the world, to create something new, but most importantly, I have learned that I don’t know anything even if I am made to believe I do. I realized that I didn’t know much about world poetry except the few poems people had been inspired to translate to Icelandic. It totally blew my mind to see poets from Indonesia, Japan, Colombia or the States perform. Words fly through the air like samurai swords, shouts and laughter around the slam. The Internet is my muse. I am a part of a world of action poets and artists. These people have come into my life through the gateways of the Internet and inspired me to be me, all the way; a high-tech aboriginal Viking on rollerblades.

by Birgitta Jónsdóttir Learning Icelandic the Easy Way. Can It Be Done? in English as it did to start casual conjugation. So, my efforts to find the ultimate tutor continued.

The Terrifying Undergrowth Icelandic for Beginners is by Stanislaw Jan Bartoszek and Anh-Dao Tran (if two individuals with such apparently non-Nordic names can master the language well enough to teach it, then I should be able to manage more than a fractured “talar þú ensku?”). This book acknowledges from the outset that Icelandic has “a

Gúndi lot of grammar”, and does its best to lead you through the terrifying undergrowth of The very first phrase I learned in Icelandic was “the irregular verbs and possessive gramophone is on the table.” It’s not something I have pronouns. There’s an accompanying recording too, had much cause to say in Iceland, or indeed, anywhere. practice on the finer points of pronunciation. The reason I know this sentence is not because my lessons began thirty years ago or because I work in Modern and Proudly Ancient a retro hi-fi shop with an unusually large Icelandic Better still is Daisy L. Neijmann’s Colloquial Icelandic, a clientele; it’s down to the fact that I first dipped my toe much-respected book and CD package which does a fine into this vast linguistic ocean of declension, gender and job of untangling the rules and exceptions of this unique endings courtesy of Linguaphone. language, as modern as it is proudly ancient. Why ég tala but við tölum? This book explains the “U-shift” almost The company famed for teaching millions a new tongue poetically: “a’s in Icelandic are allergic to u’s, and break by asking them to “listen, repeat and understand” out into ö’s or u’s as soon as any u gets too close!” Armed first published its Icelandic course in 1965. That’s a with this charming metaphor, Icelandic peculiarities remarkable fact given that very few people chose to visit soon appear less strange than some of the oddities that the country back then, and even fewer sought to learn we don’t allow to trouble us in English; why “goose” and its language. Nonetheless, the books and tapes have “geese” but not “moose” and “meese”? been published ever since and have presumably sold in Going Native r increasing numbers; unfortunately (and despite my course egu sv fn ko having been reprinted in 1994), not much has really been Useful as Colloquial Icelandic is, it was somewhat al K updated since those early days when new speakers were eclipsed when I found a real life genuine Icelander of Arnar- asked to proudly locate their record players. my very own. At the hairdresser’s here in Edinburgh Lækjar- hóll torg Hverfisgata Ingólfsstræti one day, I found my locks being cut by someone with Bankastræti Can Casual Conjugation Lead to Anything More? an accent that I placed vaguely as Scandinavian. Upon Lækjargata The Linguaphone course, consisting of two course further investigation, I discovered that Áslaug was here books, fifty lessons and four cassettes (cassettes!) is as from Reykjavík for a couple of years, and yes, she would dense as it is thorough. For a native English speaker like be delighted to help me learn her language. She may be myself, technically untutored in the ways of grammatical Scotland’s only hairdressing linguist, and I am delighted terminology, being asked to determine the difference to report that she performs each role extremely well. between the nominative, genitive and accusative on more Takk fyrir, Áslaug! or less the first page is disheartening. Horrifyingly, it took nearly as long to determine what those terms meant by Darren Adam THE PRICE OF HESITATION

How Delayed Reactions Kept Iraq Off the Agenda for Over a Year

By PAUL F NIKOLOV

“In politics, an organized minority is a political majority.” - Jesse Jackson

On March 18, 2003, a decision was made that could have meant the end of the political careers of then Foreign Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson, then Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson and maybe even the end of the decades-long conservative majority in parliament. The decision in question regarded the then imminent invasion of Iraq.

Davið Oddsson said, in a statement quoted on the White House webpage (http://www.whitehouse.gov/infocus/iraq/news/20030326-7.html): “The United States now considers its security to be gravely endangered by the actions and attacks of terrorists and because of various threats from countries governed by dictators and tyrants. It believes that support from this small country makes a difference...The declaration issued by the Icelandic Government on the Iraq dispute says that we intend to maintain the close cooperation we have had with our powerful ally in the West. First of all, this involves flyover authorization for the Icelandic air control area. Secondly, the use of Keflavik Airport, if necessary. In third place, we will take part in the reconstruction of Iraq after the war ends. Fourthly, we expressed political support for Resolution 1441 being enforced after four months of delays.” A clear declaration of national support, to be sure. There was only one problem: the nation itself was never asked.

En route to Iraq

US military planes had been landing in and flying over Iceland on their way to Iraq as early as February 19, 2003 as part of a routine agreement with the UN. But how Iceland became a member of the “coalition of the willing” is a matter still being debated.

During meetings of the Foreign Affairs committee in the winter of 2002 to 2003, Iraq was only mentioned twice. On neither of these occasions was the possibility of supporting any military action against Iraq ever discussed. When member of parliament Þórunn Sveinbjarnardóttir asked Halldór Ásgrímsson on March 21, 2003 how Iceland ended up in the “coalition of the willing,” he responded by saying the decision was made after a meeting between officials in the Foreign Ministry and the Prime Minister’s office three days previous. In other words, the decision was made without consulting parliament. This should have been everyone’s “I don’t think anyone realised the significance until much later.” cue - the opposition in parliament, the press, the people themselves - President of Journalist’s Union Róbert Marshall - to jump up and demand answers. Instead, the issue was many times in the Foreign Affairs Iceland, although in the coalition, do would be to get Iceland out of quietly forgotten for over a year committee and in parliament in does not have an army. With no “The decision was made shortly the coalition. But in a televised and wouldn’t receive any serious the winter of 2002 to 2003.” Ásta Icelander in danger of being killed before the elections in parliament. roundtable discussion the night attention until January 5, 2005, when Möller, vice MP for Davíð Oddsson, in combat, any sacrifice made in Then came the elections, and all the before the elections, with members the results of an IMG Gallup poll reiterated this same position to supporting the war might not attention that the media bill received, of the press and leading politicians conducted the previous December Grapevine: have seemed so great. After all, all which might partly explain why no all talking and debating various revealed that 84% of those surveyed we were doing was letting planes one paid attention to the Iraq issue. matters, the subject of Iraq never did not want Iceland to be a part of “There had been discussion about land and take off here, as they do all But there had always been rumours came up once. We began to focus the coalition. Will the fervent, albeit Iceland supporting the coalition the time. going around. Things escalated when more on the Iraq issue after the very late, reaction now surfacing in forces before the invasion. Our part [MP in Ásgrímsson’s Progressive media bill controversy began to quiet parliament and in the media have was political support, and to allow party] Kristinn Gunnarsson spoke down in July. We had always been any effect, or is the point moot? No smoking gun military aircraft to land in and fly up, saying Iraq was never discussed discussing Iraq, but we didn’t want over Iceland on their way to Iraq. in parliament or in the Committee to split up our energy.” Morally supporting war President of the Journalist’s Union We are a part of NATO, but as we Róbert Marshall adds that the media of Foreign Affairs, then another don’t have any troops, ours was more bill brought before parliament in member spoke up, and the matter “Reactionary Ásgrímsson, among others, has said of a moral support.” May of 2004 was also a contributing began to rear its head.” that the Iraq question “was discussed commie losers” factor in keeping Iraq ignored: When asked why he felt the press didn’t react sooner, he said, “There On September 15, 2004, Oddsson Making Sense of the Chaos now. were protests, statements made and Ásgrímsson changed places; the “There were so many things I saw and former became Foreign Minister An Icelandic Nurse Recalls Her Time in Baghdad in newspapers, but I don’t think experienced which impacted me deeply while anyone realised the significance until and the latter Prime Minister. I was there, especially the children. When the much later. Now, when there are no Government policy remained Guðbjörg Sveinsdóttir, a psychiatric nurse, water system broke down in Baghdad, the streets weapons of mass destruction, it starts unchanged. Then came the news was invited to Baghdad in May 2003 by the were flodded with dirty water. Children were to look like something that it wasn’t on December 1, 2004 that the International Red Cross (IRC) to evaluate the outside bathing in it. I saw people standing in necessary to get involved in. It was Movement for Active Democracy condition of mental health care in Iraq. During her very long lines waiting all day for food and gas. something I’d been thinking about was raising money to buy a full page time, she also visited Kurdistan and Basra. Ms. One thing I remember very clearly was when I for a long time, but we couldn’t see in the New York Times for their Sveinsdóttir shares her experieces in Iraq with was in the city of Kerbala, a very beautiful city. how we would get into the story; declaration entitled, “The invasion of Grapevine: I talked to some of the American soldiers there. we didn’t know who would talk. Iraq – not in our name.” Suddenly, They were very young, very inexperienced and The Progressives started talking on the issue reared its head again. “Like everything else in the country, the state they didn’t have a clue about the culture. I spoke their own. If it wasn’t for them, we Davíð Oddsson, in an address to of mental health servies in Iraq was chaotic. to many, and they all seemed very unprepared to probably wouldn’t be talking about parliament, showed uncharacteristic Saddam Hussein had officially denied the be there. this now.” emotion when he said that the only existence of mental health problems in Iraq, people against Iceland’s support of so the level of care was not very developed, to “But I’ll also never forget the tremendous the US led invasion of Iraq were say the least. The IRC had one mental hospital strength a lot of Iraqi people showed. It was very Media bill or war “afturhaldskommatittir,” which in Baghdad staffed by a few local doctors. moving. While most thought things would not be loosely translates as “reactionary Hans Kristjánsson, chairman of the Resources were very limited and I don’t think getting better any time soon, they did believe commie losers.” Movement for Active Democracy they’ve improved. things would get better some day. They were just sick of being occupied, whether by Saddam or by - an organization formed in response In January of 2005, with the results to the media bill which bought a “The biggest mental health problems we were the Americans. of the Gallup Poll made public, full-page anti-war declaration in the facing were post traumatic stress disorder and ’s ad appearing in New York Times - agrees: depression. The war, the sanctions, the looting, “If the IRC ever returns to Iraq, I think I would the New York Times that week, the escalating violence – all these things probably go back. My experience there was very and more members of parliament “When Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir compounded made life pretty unbearable for many tense, but it was also very remarkable.” - particularly from the Social ran for Prime Minister in 2003, people. Of course, it wasn’t as bad then as it is Democratic and Leftist-Green she said the first thing she would parties - demanding answers.

UN terms for cease-fire and February 2003: US military March 21 2003: Member January 2004: Discovery January 9 2005: Össur unclear. January 21 2005: Pétur Iceland is no longer on any list lead war effort in Iraq. Iceland UN sanctions are imposed. aircraft on their way to Iraq of parliament Þórunn of “mustard gas shells” by Skarphéðinsson, chairman Gunnarsson, the office of American allies of the war is even still listed on the Iraq: A Timeline: Official reports of Iraqi stop in Iceland Sveinbjarnardóttir asks then- joint Icelandic-Danish team of the Social Democratic January 13 2005: Halldór manager of the Progressive in Iraq. White House´s own webpage casualties are reported Foreign Minister Halldór in southern Iraq turns out to party, says that both Foreign Ásgrímsson says on an Party, offers his own concerning the nations in this between 20,000 and Feb 15: Day of global protest Ásgrímsson how Iceland be erroneous. Minister Davíð Oddsson interview on RÚV, “I am quite explanation as to how Iceland January 25 2005: Halldór coalition. 3000 BCE: The city of June 1979: Saddam Hussein 35,000. against war in Iraq, including ended up in the coalition and Prime Minister Halldor sure that Icelanders support ended up as one of the nations Ásgrímsson admits on Babylon arises in the region becomes Iraqi president hundreds of Icelanders, who of the willing. His response June 2004: Movement for Ásgrimmsson broke the law developing democracy in in the coalition that invaded television station Stöð 2 that Today: Over 100,000 Iraqi that is now Iraq. through a coup d’etat. 1991 – 2003: As a result of march on parliament. is that this happened in Active Democracy formed by signing Iceland into the Iraq, the elections there and Iraq, saying that Iceland was he allowed military aircraft on civilians, half of whom are sanctions and intermittent air a conversation between coalition without bringing the the reconstruction which lies added by the US as a “public their way to Iraq to stopover in women and children, have August 1920: British forces, August 1990: Iraq invades attacks, anywhere between March 18 2003: A statement officials in the Foreign October 2004: Movement for question before the public or ahead.” relations move.” Keflavík in February 2003. died as a result of the having already taken over Kuwait. Saddam Hussein half a million and a million of support for the US-lead Ministry and officials of the Active Democracy calls for members of parliament. invasion. Over 1600 coalition much of Iraq, struggle to would later say, in court, Iraqis die. invasion of Iraq from then President three days earlier. resignation of the ruling party January 20 2005: It comes January 22 2005: A full page January 26 2005: Jón Ásgeir forces have lost their lives. seize control over Fallujah. In that he did this to control the Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson April 2003 – May 2004: or vote of no confidence January 11 2005: IMG Gallup to light that Iraq was only statement from the Movement Sigurðsson of “Spegillinn” Aid workers continue to be the ensuing battle, over 1000 price of oil. September 2002: US appears on the White House Apart from several opinion announces after a meeting mentioned twice during for Active Democracy appears confirms on radio station Rás kidnapped and/or executed British and Indian troops and President George W Bush, in webpage. pieces debating the pros and January 5 2005: According yesterday that they stand by meetings of the Ministry of in the New York Times 1 that after speaking with on a weekly basis. around 10,000 Fallujans die. January 1991: UN Security an address to the UN, pushes cons of supporting the US- to a Gallup poll conducted the results of the poll. Halldór Foreign Affairs in the winter yesterday entitled “The officials for the US State Council passes Resolution for military action against March 20 2003: US-lead lead war effort in Iraq, the at the end of 2004, 84% Ásgrímsson, Davíð Oddsson of 2002 to 2003. At neither Invasion of Iraq – not in our Department, the White House, October 1932: Iraq becomes 678, approving military Iraq. military operations begin in media is largely silent on the of Icelanders do not want and Minister of Justice Björn one of these meetings was name”. and the National Security an independent state. action against Iraq. Iraq, with Iceland listed as a Issue Iceland to be in the “coalition Bjarnason each respond to the possibility of Iceland´s Advisor that Iceland is still member of “the coalition of of the willing.” the poll by saying that it support for the war effort in January 23 2005: Reuters in fact a part of the coalition March 1991: Iraq accepts the willing.” was vague and the questions Iraq ever discussed. erroneously reports that of nations supporting the US- From “Baghdad Burning,” spokesman this week ticked off the final markers of progress: Planning your own http://riverbendblog.blogspot.com/ 130 planeloads of voting materials had landed in Iraq, including incusion into the The United States has ended its physical search for weapons of 90,000 ballot boxes and 60 million ballots — a flurry of up to 15 mass destruction (WMD) in Iraq, which was cited by the first flights a day to Iraqi airfields.” - MSNBC.com, January 29, 2005 Middle East? administration of President George W Bush as the main reason Come on now - quit frontin’. for invading the country, the White House has said. There are about 25 million Iraqis, and about 15 million of them You know you want it. are elligible to vote (many are indeed boycotting it). What will But you best not go Why does this not surprise me? Does it surprise anyone? I always they be doing with the extra 45 million ballots?” unprepared. After all, how are had the feeling that the only people who actually believed this you gonna distinguish between peace-loving surrenderers and From “Dahr Jamail’s Iraq Dispatches,” terroristic cockblockers out to http://dahrjamailiraq.com/weblog burn you to death and hang Baghdad Blogs “Earlier today while I was in the al-Adhamiya district of Baghdad the US base there was mortared 8 times. We heard it just after your carcass from a bridge? An aid worker, three Iraqis, and finishing huge plates of kebabs at a sidewalk restaurant. After Take a tip from the Pentagon a US soldier on the Net finishing the meal an old woman came to our table and asked if and fly over your designated she could take our leftovers. ass-kickin’ zone with these He took two plastic bags and began dumping our half eaten flyers that the US military war was about weapons of mass destruction were either paranoid salads and extra bread into them. She thanked us and blessed dropped over Iraq before the Americans or deluded expatriate Iraqis- or a combination of both. us, then began to shuffle off…Abu Talat and I both quickly invasion. For more samples, go I wonder now, after hundreds and hundreds of Americans actually walked over to her and gave her a small wad of Iraqi Dinars. We to the link below. died on Iraqi soil and over a hundred-thousand Iraqis are dead, walked back to the car not saying a word about it.” how Americans view the current situation.” Clip and save! http://www.centcom.mil/galleries/ From “My War,” leaflets/showleaflets.asp From “Healing Iraq,” http://cbftw.blogspot.com/ http://healingiraq.blogspot.com “So my AG looks over at me and with a mischievous smile says, ”One problem [in the Iraq elections] was the special ink that “Watch this!” and then he starts chanting: “U-S-A! U-S-A! U-S-A!” voters have to dab their fingers with. Many Iraqis were concerned over and over again, next thing you know all these little kids, that insurgents would catch them on their way back to Baghdad 100’s of them, started chanting U-S-A!! Over and over again, and recognise people who had voted. each time a little louder. We were both laughing and thought this was all funny until I saw the reaction on the older people’s faces Some resourceful Iraqis had already devised several methods to on the side of the road. They didn’t look too thrilled about that, get rid of the stain. One of these is to paint your fingers with skin once I immediately noticed that, I said, “Dude, that’s not cool! lotion before you enter the polling station, wipe your finger clean Make them stop yelling that shit!” But it was too late, these kids immediately after voting and before the ink dries, on returning were having too much fun chanting U-S-A! Next thing you know I home dip your finger in boiling detergent and rub it repeatedly.” saw an older middle eastern lady wearing all black pick up a rock and throw it at us, which of course started a huge chain reaction of rock throwing at us. We got out of that neighborhood in a From “Free Iraq,” hurry after that. Lesson learned.” http://abutamam.blogspot.com/ “PS: “In the run-up to Iraq’s elections, the State Department’s

Minister of Justice Björn Bjarnason Progressive Party began to distance the end of this month. What will It’s difficult to say what will happen reacted by saying, “I don’t intend to themselves from the Prime Minister, this mean for Ásgrímsson and his - it appears that nothing will. But take part in this game that doesn’t including Vice Chairman Guðni party? Are the Progressives splitting if they don’t clear this matter up, make any difference.” Ágústsson and former Minister of in two? people will remember this in the the Environment Siv Friðleifsdóttir. long run. When you leave things The collapse of the Support for the Progressive party, “I think that the Prime Minister’s unclear for this long, you give your which was at 17.7% in the May control over the Progressive party opponents an opportunity.” Progressives 2003 elections, has plummeted is pretty secure,” says Marshall. “I to 8% as of February 1, according wouldn’t worry about him being Making a molehill out of a mountain As the controversy started to heat to a Fréttablaðið poll. The party’s ousted, but I do think he’s not Möller disagrees, saying, “There up, members of Ásgrímsson’s national convention will be held at having a very good time right now. already have been repercussions. I wouldn’t say that this matter is off “If we think of a subject as a hill or a mountain, this subject is going the table in Icelandic politics, but it’s downhill” - Ásta Möller, vice MP for Davíð Oddsson certainly off to the side. If we think of a subject as a hill or a mountain, this subject is going downhill. It’s past now, and I think the Iraqi elections took the heat out of this matter for the whole world. Now is the time for all parties to focus on the reconstruction of Iraq.”

So far, the only casualty of the Iraq controversy has been Marshall himself. After erroneously reporting that the decision for Iceland to support the US led invasion was made before March 18, 2003, Marshall resigned from his position as reporter for television station Stöð 2. Whether or not any resignations from politicians involved in this controversy are forthcoming remains to be seen.

If anything is to be learned from this, it could be that the chance for the press, members of parliament, and the people themselves to question the decisions made by elected officials should be taken quickly. This controversy could have been UN terms for cease-fire and February 2003: US military March 21 2003: Member January 2004: Discovery January 9 2005: Össur unclear. January 21 2005: Pétur Iceland is no longer on any list lead war effort in Iraq. Iceland investigated thoroughly from the UN sanctions are imposed. aircraft on their way to Iraq of parliament Þórunn of “mustard gas shells” by Skarphéðinsson, chairman Gunnarsson, the office of American allies of the war is even still listed on the very start - instead, over a year Official reports of Iraqi stop in Iceland Sveinbjarnardóttir asks then- joint Icelandic-Danish team of the Social Democratic January 13 2005: Halldór manager of the Progressive in Iraq. White House´s own webpage went by before anyone took the casualties are reported Foreign Minister Halldór in southern Iraq turns out to party, says that both Foreign Ásgrímsson says on an Party, offers his own concerning the nations in this matter seriously. Whether this issue between 20,000 and Feb 15: Day of global protest Ásgrímsson how Iceland be erroneous. Minister Davíð Oddsson interview on RÚV, “I am quite explanation as to how Iceland January 25 2005: Halldór coalition. 3000 BCE: The city of June 1979: Saddam Hussein 35,000. against war in Iraq, including ended up in the coalition and Prime Minister Halldor sure that Icelanders support ended up as one of the nations Ásgrímsson admits on will quietly disappear or result in Babylon arises in the region becomes Iraqi president hundreds of Icelanders, who of the willing. His response June 2004: Movement for Ásgrimmsson broke the law developing democracy in in the coalition that invaded television station Stöð 2 that Today: Over 100,000 Iraqi that is now Iraq. consequences for those involved is through a coup d’etat. 1991 – 2003: As a result of march on parliament. is that this happened in Active Democracy formed by signing Iceland into the Iraq, the elections there and Iraq, saying that Iceland was he allowed military aircraft on civilians, half of whom are anyone’s guess. However, as Róbert sanctions and intermittent air a conversation between coalition without bringing the the reconstruction which lies added by the US as a “public their way to Iraq to stopover in women and children, have August 1920: British forces, August 1990: Iraq invades attacks, anywhere between March 18 2003: A statement officials in the Foreign October 2004: Movement for question before the public or ahead.” relations move.” Keflavík in February 2003. died as a result of the Marshall told us, “I don’t think it’s having already taken over Kuwait. Saddam Hussein half a million and a million of support for the US-lead Ministry and officials of the Active Democracy calls for members of parliament. invasion. Over 1600 coalition ever too late for the news to have an much of Iraq, struggle to would later say, in court, Iraqis die. invasion of Iraq from then President three days earlier. resignation of the ruling party January 20 2005: It comes January 22 2005: A full page January 26 2005: Jón Ásgeir forces have lost their lives. seize control over Fallujah. In effect. Just look at Watergate. The that he did this to control the Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson April 2003 – May 2004: or vote of no confidence January 11 2005: IMG Gallup to light that Iraq was only statement from the Movement Sigurðsson of “Spegillinn” Aid workers continue to be the ensuing battle, over 1000 break-in happened in 1972. Nixon price of oil. September 2002: US appears on the White House Apart from several opinion announces after a meeting mentioned twice during for Active Democracy appears confirms on radio station Rás kidnapped and/or executed British and Indian troops and President George W Bush, in webpage. pieces debating the pros and January 5 2005: According yesterday that they stand by meetings of the Ministry of in the New York Times 1 that after speaking with on a weekly basis. was re-elected, and the Watergate around 10,000 Fallujans die. January 1991: UN Security an address to the UN, pushes cons of supporting the US- to a Gallup poll conducted the results of the poll. Halldór Foreign Affairs in the winter yesterday entitled “The officials for the US State story didn’t actually get him out of Council passes Resolution for military action against March 20 2003: US-lead lead war effort in Iraq, the at the end of 2004, 84% Ásgrímsson, Davíð Oddsson of 2002 to 2003. At neither Invasion of Iraq – not in our Department, the White House, October 1932: Iraq becomes office until August 1974. Things like 678, approving military Iraq. military operations begin in media is largely silent on the of Icelanders do not want and Minister of Justice Björn one of these meetings was name”. and the National Security an independent state. action against Iraq. Iraq, with Iceland listed as a Issue Iceland to be in the “coalition Bjarnason each respond to the possibility of Iceland´s Advisor that Iceland is still this can happen over time.” member of “the coalition of of the willing.” the poll by saying that it support for the war effort in January 23 2005: Reuters in fact a part of the coalition March 1991: Iraq accepts the willing.” was vague and the questions Iraq ever discussed. erroneously reports that of nations supporting the US- METAPHYSICS

Wondering what you’re looking at? Don’t be. If you flip the page back, you’ll see that these panels down here are the back sides of the flyers that you should clip out and drop over any ass-kickin’ zone that you plan to invade. Don’t be shy. I know you wanna. So much oil, so little time. Get dem scissors, bitch, and get ta clippin’! RELIGION WITHOUT GOD Gúndi

A fundamental mistake in the presentation of religions or spirituality is the presumption that a themselves, the sensations, our Supreme Being, better known as “God,” is essential. What this rather loaded term has generally implied feelings and the thoughts connected to those feelings, comes up, stays is a Person or Conscious Being that acts in the function of Creator, Judge or Final Arbiter of our actions, a little while and then fades away. is the repository of all that is Ultimate Good, and has a Final Resting Place for those who obey said This process of arising, temporarily Beings’ terms and conditions (sometimes known as rules or commandments) as a precondition to entry staying and passing can be said into His (generally, and unfortunately, it is a “he”) “Paradise/Heaven” to apply to all things, animate or inanimate. It is an infinite flux, This definition fits the descriptions answer might be contained in one what made this path “a Path” was a vibrant that of God as given by the three major of ’s most famous stories. its assurance that each of us can initially threatens our limited “self” monotheistic religions (Judaism, When asked by a local King if he was become enlightened too, if only but eventually offers us complete Christianity and Islam), along a God, since he was so revered and we learned to see things as-they- freedom. with their offshoots, and two beloved by all who came in contact really-are (yatham-bhutam). This of the other “world religions”: with him, the Buddha answered, “seeing”, this dynamic experience of In practical terms, we can actually Zoroastrianism and, with some “No.” Ultimate Reality is, in fact, Truth experience this intimately, loosening important reservations, Hinduism. “Are you a saint then?” itself. And that must be actualized our attachment to the habitual But Confucianism, Shintoism, “No.” by each person individually, through patterns that keep us tied into our Taoism and, the main subject of this “Are you a demon?” practices collectively known as own private little neuroses. We can article, Buddhism, do not fit into “No.” “meditation” but known in gradually free ourselves from the such a category and might be more “Then what are you?” asked the (the literary language of Buddhism process of solidifying around one accurately called “God-less paths.” King. and Hinduism) as , or, particular pattern we call “me” and “I am awake,” the Buddha simply “mental cultivation”. learn to actually change ourselves. Science of the Mind said. Buddhism, then, is all about We can experience the utmost Buddhism has survived for over waking up. Experiencing Complete Freedom freedom; a liberation sometimes 2500 years providing immeasurable In the most basic terms, Buddhist described as a “pure awareness.” comfort, support, wisdom and What Makes a Path a Path? meditation can be divided into Living always in this experience is compassion while never insisting But how is it possible that a “Godless calming (s’amatha) and insight Awakening, and we can all have upon belief in a God. It has been path” can become so widespread (vipas’yana). We cannot begin to glimpses of this if we want. And no variously described as being more and grant its “believers” spiritual understand the infinite complex of need for any mention of “God” to a “science of the Mind” or a “path comfort while speaking constantly of causes and conditions that make up begin... of Awakening” than a religion and “suffering”, denying the existence of who we are without first calming continues to confound those who a soul and asserting that everything down the constant babbling that Rev. José M. Tirado is a poet, writer insist directly or indirectly that a is connected to everything else takes place within us. Once this is and Green activist. He is also a Shin “religion” must contain a “God”. through a timeless, beginning-less achieved to a stable degree, we can Buddhist priest teaching in Iceland. and endless procession of causes and then move into careful observation www.thepathofmyexperience.com So what is Buddhism then, and how conditions? of the constant flow within us. How can it be approached? The simplest What made Buddhism spread, everything, starting with our bodies 17

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Future Echoes of the the Echoesof ofEchoes the Past Gúndi

by Anik Todd After the immensely successful ‘Transforme’ show at the Parisian ‘Via’ gallery in April of last year, Páll Hjaltason and Steinunn Sigurðardóttir have been invited to present an exhibition of product design in the National Museum of Iceland that echoes the spirit of their country. The aptly entitled ‘Ómur’ (echoes) spans the entire range from fashion to furniture, architecture to amulets, and a few pieces that drift comfortably in between; each and every one of them unmistakably seeped in national tradition. 18 GUIDE TO THE CITY CENTER This pullout has all the information one might need, so for a safer journey, pull it out and put it in your pocket. 4. Café Paris international championship in Trieste this year. Jónína made freestyle 30. Litli ljóti andarunginn CAFE´S champion, with her “Cup of Culture” mix, which includes orange and FAST FOOD Austurstræti 14 7. Svartakaffi 13. Kaffibarinn 19. Grand Rokk by Lækjargata 6B Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, white chocolate among other things. Have one. Named after the HC Andersen fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The Laugavegur 54 Bergstaðastræti 1 Smiðjustígur 6 1. Segafredo popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like Duckling is one of the very best places for a quiet night, when even on 41. Nonnabiti Read the newspaper, have a cup of coffee, have a philosophical conver- Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do By Lækjartorg the city it’s named after. Saturday nights you can hear what your partner is saying. They have Hafnarstræti 11 McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead sation with your cigarette and enjoy the specialty of the house, soup in a itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the covers. Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and recently expanded the place with additional room for seating, and have Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You bread. Aim high, it’s not on the ground floor. world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when BARS & BISTRO food at lunchtime. can smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world admission or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy the weather is nice. is Italian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega 8. Tíu Dropar famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur- starving artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hang- living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing 11. Sólon ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is out for chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might isn’t one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing Laugavegur 27 RESTAURANTS “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have how much things cost might ruin your vacation. 5. Mokka Bankastræti 7a the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently wander in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One lunchtime offers. A very nice “grandma” style café. It’s not that apparent from the street, Named after (in his own opinion, at least), Iceland´s greatest man, in the film. of the best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. Skólavörðustígur 3a being in on the bottom floor, but is actually bigger than it looks. They An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik Sólon is a pretty crowded nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights. It 31. La Primavera serve traditional treats such as hot chocolate and waffles, but grandma is 2. Ráðhúskaffi and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls seems to have more lives than one, however, since in the day it´s a fairly Austurstræti 9 42. Mama Taco´s also known to come up with new delicacies, such as the Snickers cake, 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 City Hall are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal artsy coffeehouse and in the evening (weeknights) they have a decent Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary restaurant Lækjargata 8 With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City and you can even try her latest work in progress. Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 One of those places that seem to be always open, and hence you find customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a menu. You can get a three course fish of the day meal for under 2000 that has its most notable influences from Northern Italian cooking but Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of yourself going to late on Saturday nights as consolation when it seems really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the krónur, or try the delicious fish and meat mixed sticks. using local Icelandic produce. The unique menu that results from this for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited inevitable you´ll be going home alone. And as consolations go, it´s café since its inception. 9. Kaffitár combination features homemade pastas, risotto, gnochi, polenta and welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come model of Iceland. Bankastræti 8 a wide variety of the freshest vegetables, fish, poultry, meat and game. not bad. Rather reasonable by local standards, and they have all the 12. Café 22 ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. tortillaish Mexican standards. The café has a different colour on every wall. It’s small but has good The menu, the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian 6. Feng Shui Laugavegur 22 or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with 3. Grái Kötturinn coffee and tasty side dishes. It’s one of these places that make you want wine list has made La Primavera a favorite among the locals. They Laugavegur 42b, by Frakkastígur Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper to sit down and watch daily life go by on one of downtown´s busiest 21. Café Victor laugh no more!! Hverfisgata 16a Inside the Feng Shui house is a café called “Teahouse of the August to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 43. Bernhöftsbakarí Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is streets, or simply just to read the newspaper. Hafnarstræti 1-3 moon”. The café just recently opened and they serve organic cakes, quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the Bergstaðastæti 13 very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place Spelt with a c rather than with the more traditional k in order to be A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has biscuits and the largest selection of tea in town. Try the waffle biscuits Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the 32. Tveir fiskar to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional 15. Nelly’s more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be working, as the bar has changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best and have a Kashmir tea latte. 10. Te og Kaffi wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who Geirsgötu 9 Þingholtsstræti 2 become something of a hangout for foreigners. The Viking ship sitting breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat Laugavegur 24 want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond: The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced on top of the house might also add to the appeal. The crowd is very pricey. Te og Kaffi actually manufacture the coffee for quite a few of the cafés warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after 01:30. lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too a snúður roll with chocolate milk. drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly mixed, both in origin and age, and so is the music. in Reykjavík apart from running their own cafés. Perhaps the most bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a noteworthy aspect of the place is its staff. Most of them have actually Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after 44. Bæjarins bestu served on the Icelandic coffeemaking team. Njáll came in 4th in the 22. Pravda midnight on weekends. Tryggvagata Austurstræti 22 33. Hornið They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product Not, sadly, a meeting place for the communist party but somewhere Hafnarstræti 15 lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog 16. Vegamót quite far from it. This location, which formerly housed Astró, has long Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw Vegamótastígur 4 been home to bleached blonde babes and hnakki’s. It is perhaps the bar the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better. Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress in Reykjavik that comes closest to a Nightclub type atmosphere. says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality ���� up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable 45. Hlölli there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. ones. Try the calzone. �� 23. Kaffi Kúltur By Ingólfstorg ������������ �� Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend brunch. Try the lobster pizza. Hverfisgötu 18 Where Nonni used to work before he went solo, due to creative dif- For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about 34. Caruso ferences no doubt. They have a somewhat larger selection of subs then �� town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its Nonni, and they also have smaller sizes for kids and weight watchers. Eimskip logo ������������ Þingholtsstræti 1 �� 17. Kaffibrennslan something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just Pizza and pasta are the specialities, although they also have a fish of the Brave souls might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rubber boat), which �� Pósthússtræti 9 across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and day. The seafood pasta has exceptionally fresh fish, as is to be expected. might seem like an oversized relative of the ever-present pulsa. �� � One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. The decor is nice for the mid-level price range, and they have a retro � few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a smoking lounge upstairs. after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget, place to learn as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor. 46. Eldsmiðjan they are generous with the refills. Bragagata 38a �� Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly �� 24. Prikið �� ����������� 35. 3 Frakkar more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection ������������� 18. Rósenberg Bankastræti 12 of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can Baldursgata 14 Lækjargötu 2 Used to be a traditional coffee house which has been around longer also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll If you stand outside Pósthússtræti 2 and look up, you’ll see a scary looking �� �� � This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with Perhaps the closest we have to a jazz club, and old instruments line the than any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy �� an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic symbol. Don’t worry, this is not, in fact, the headquarters of the Icelandic �� �� walls. People go there for conversation and listening to music rather crowd. A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. �� than dancing. The place tends to have jazz or blues type music. Regular also borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess. traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- ���������� Nazi party, but the former headquarters of the shipping company Eimskip, �� � players include Outsider legend Mike Pollock and Tom Waits cover ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re �� lucky, Chef Úlfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the 47. Vitabar founded in 1914, and hence predating Nazism. The is a Nordic �� band Misery Loves Company. 25. Rex ������������ clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Úlfar for Bergþórugata 21 sun symbol, probably originally descended from India. Nazism never really �� ����������� Austurstræti 9 dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries � A favourite hangout for Kate Winslet look-alikes. Rex is one of the forget to make a reservation! for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must caught on in Iceland, and the symbol was retained by the company, although posher hangouts, dress code is not insisted upon, but you’ll find yourself go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The �� out of place if you’re too casual. Also rumoured to be a haunt for gener- Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. in the postwar years they would cover it up when entering foreign ports. The ous middle aged ladies. 36. Pasta Basta � Klapparstíg 38 ���������������� �� building is currently under construction and will soo An affordable Italian place, the pasta is in generous portions and the 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) �� �� 26. Thorvaldsen salad with grilled chicken is a good light option. The garden is nice, Laugavegur 20b

������������� �� Austurstræti 8 with a glass ceiling protecting punters from the wind and the rain at all Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the �� Posh as the fifth circle of hell. That said, they make a mean Mojito. times of year. Upstairs, the Blue Bar offers a more bar type atmosphere. same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the �� DJ´s on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive before 12 if you want theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al- to avoid the queue Theme nights during the week, wine and cheese on 37. Tapas ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and Wednesdays, Finlandia nights on Fridays and Sunday roast on, well, wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, Vesturgata 3b Sundays. Civilian attire is looked down upon. slips slightly over in the evening. �� For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening is well spent at Tapas, where you can vile away the evening having course 27. Gaukur á Stöng after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Recommended is 49. Pizza Pronto Tryggvagata 22 the garlic fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. If you don’t feel like Vallarstræti 4 Iceland’s oldest bar is now in it’s early twenties. During the day it’s a getting up right away afterwards, there’s also a lounge to lounge in, and Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night. �� �� pool pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by a mix the paintings there are worth a look. A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t �� of mainstream and underground bands. On weekends there is usually want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of �� a lot of action with cover bands playing everything from Britney to the three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Beatles. Admission is sometimes between 500-1000 weekends, but 38. Jómfrúin �� usually its free. Lækjargata 4 ������������ In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company ������������� Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first Laugavegur 81 �� �� ����������� 28. Dillon rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- ����������� Laugavegur 30 from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the �� This far up Laugavegur, Dillon is definitely the place to be. With morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street. �������������������������� ���������� reinforcements from bass brute Þröstur (Johnny for short) from the 39. Shalimar � Rock band Mínus, now doing his time on the other side of the bar Austurstræti 4 tending it, an air of something about to go down permeates. The DJ Prides itself on being the northernmost Indian restaurant in the world. � is the grandmother of Icelandic rock Andrea Gylfadóttir, in residence How this affects the food, we don’t know as there are no comparisons on Saturdays. It used to be a nice, horse themed place for a quiet drink, in town. The daily special, comprised of two dishes on your plate, goes ����������� but no more. for roughly 1000kr. But we recommend the Chicken Tikka Masala, �� �� known to be highly addictive. And if the curry gets to you, they have a ��������������� � 29. Glaumbar self service ice cone machine. ��������������� Tryggvagötu 20 ������������ �� One of the few proper sport bars in Reykjavík, so you can go and watch 40. Við Tjörnina ��������� whatever game happens to be on the TV screens. The establishment is Templarasundi 3 �� basically based around the bar, so you won´t have to go a long way for a One of the best known fish restaurants in Iceland. The cook is Súkkat drink. Open until five, and has a reputation for late night partying member and Megas sidekick Gunni. It´s known for innovative fish �� dishes made from a variety of rare fish and shellfish and related raw materials. Their respect for the raw materials is a tribute to fish and shellfish, showing off their natural goodness without artificiality. ������������ 19 USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Useful for Emergencies Emergency phone 112 fire, police, ambulance Emergency Ward, City Hospital 24hrs. 525-1000 Doctor: 1770 4. Café Paris international championship in Trieste this year. Jónína made freestyle 30. Litli ljóti andarunginn Dentist: 575-0505 CAFE´S champion, with her “Cup of Culture” mix, which includes orange and FAST FOOD Austurstræti 14 7. Svartakaffi 13. Kaffibarinn 19. Grand Rokk by Lækjargata 6B Directory information 118 Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, white chocolate among other things. Have one. Named after the HC Andersen fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The Pharmacies find your closest or call 118 Laugavegur 54 Bergstaðastræti 1 Smiðjustígur 6 1. Segafredo popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like Duckling is one of the very best places for a quiet night, when even on 41. Nonnabiti Read the newspaper, have a cup of coffee, have a philosophical conver- Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do Internet Cafés By Lækjartorg the city it’s named after. Saturday nights you can hear what your partner is saying. They have Hafnarstræti 11 McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead sation with your cigarette and enjoy the specialty of the house, soup in a itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the covers. Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but Bleika dúfan, Laugavegi 21, 101 Rvk, 517-1980 In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and recently expanded the place with additional room for seating, and have Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You bread. Aim high, it’s not on the ground floor. world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík BSI, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, 101 Rvk. 591-1000 artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when BARS & BISTRO food at lunchtime. can smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world admission or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall, 101 Rvk. 563-2169 the weather is nice. is Italian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega 8. Tíu Dropar famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur- starving artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hang- living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing Netkaffi, Kringlan mall, 103 Rvk. 533-2424 11. Sólon ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is out for chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might Reykjavík Travel Service, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. 511-2442 isn’t one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing Laugavegur 27 RESTAURANTS “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have how much things cost might ruin your vacation. 5. Mokka Bankastræti 7a the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently wander in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One lunchtime offers. A very nice “grandma” style café. It’s not that apparent from the street, Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 4, 101 Rvk. 562-7776 Named after (in his own opinion, at least), Iceland´s greatest man, in the film. of the best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. Skólavörðustígur 3a being in on the bottom floor, but is actually bigger than it looks. They An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik Sólon is a pretty crowded nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights. It 31. La Primavera Useful Websites serve traditional treats such as hot chocolate and waffles, but grandma is 2. Ráðhúskaffi and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls seems to have more lives than one, however, since in the day it´s a fairly Austurstræti 9 42. Mama Taco´s www.icetourist.is also known to come up with new delicacies, such as the Snickers cake, 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 City Hall are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal artsy coffeehouse and in the evening (weeknights) they have a decent Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary restaurant Lækjargata 8 www.visitreykjavik.is With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City and you can even try her latest work in progress. Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 One of those places that seem to be always open, and hence you find customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a menu. You can get a three course fish of the day meal for under 2000 that has its most notable influences from Northern Italian cooking but www.grapevine.is Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of yourself going to late on Saturday nights as consolation when it seems really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the krónur, or try the delicious fish and meat mixed sticks. using local Icelandic produce. The unique menu that results from this for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited inevitable you´ll be going home alone. And as consolations go, it´s café since its inception. 9. Kaffitár combination features homemade pastas, risotto, gnochi, polenta and Other Useful Numbers welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come model of Iceland. Bankastræti 8 a wide variety of the freshest vegetables, fish, poultry, meat and game. not bad. Rather reasonable by local standards, and they have all the City bus info, 551-2700 12. Café 22 ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. tortillaish Mexican standards. The café has a different colour on every wall. It’s small but has good The menu, the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian BSÍ bus info, 591-1000 6. Feng Shui Laugavegur 22 or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with 3. Grái Kötturinn coffee and tasty side dishes. It’s one of these places that make you want wine list has made La Primavera a favorite among the locals. They Laugavegur 42b, by Frakkastígur Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper to sit down and watch daily life go by on one of downtown´s busiest 21. Café Victor laugh no more!! Post Offices Hverfisgata 16a Inside the Feng Shui house is a café called “Teahouse of the August to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 43. Bernhöftsbakarí Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is streets, or simply just to read the newspaper. Hafnarstræti 1-3 Central Post office, Pósthússtræti 5, 101 Rvk. 580-1000. moon”. The café just recently opened and they serve organic cakes, quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the Bergstaðastæti 13 very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place Spelt with a c rather than with the more traditional k in order to be A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has Post offices are easily found around Iceland biscuits and the largest selection of tea in town. Try the waffle biscuits Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the 32. Tveir fiskar to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional 15. Nelly’s more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be working, as the bar has changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best and have a Kashmir tea latte. 10. Te og Kaffi wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who Geirsgötu 9 Taxi services Þingholtsstræti 2 become something of a hangout for foreigners. The Viking ship sitting breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat Laugavegur 24 want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond: The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced on top of the house might also add to the appeal. The crowd is very Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir 588-5522 pricey. Te og Kaffi actually manufacture the coffee for quite a few of the cafés warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after 01:30. lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too a snúður roll with chocolate milk. drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly mixed, both in origin and age, and so is the music. Borgarbílastöðin 552-2440 in Reykjavík apart from running their own cafés. Perhaps the most bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a BSR 561-0000 noteworthy aspect of the place is its staff. Most of them have actually Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after 44. Bæjarins bestu Rent a bike served on the Icelandic coffeemaking team. Njáll came in 4th in the 22. Pravda Tryggvagata midnight on weekends. Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, 101 Rvk 551-5653 Austurstræti 22 They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product 33. Hornið Reykjavík travel service, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk, 511-2442 Not, sadly, a meeting place for the communist party but somewhere lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog Hafnarstræti 15 Reykjavík Youth Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, 105. Rvk. 16. Vegamót quite far from it. This location, which formerly housed Astró, has long Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw 533-8110 Vegamótastígur 4 been home to bleached blonde babes and hnakki’s. It is perhaps the bar the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better. Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress in Reykjavik that comes closest to a Nightclub type atmosphere. says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable 45. Hlölli there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. 23. Kaffi Kúltur ones. Try the calzone. Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend By Ingólfstorg brunch. Try the lobster pizza. Hverfisgötu 18 Where Nonni used to work before he went solo, due to creative dif- For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about 34. Caruso ferences no doubt. They have a somewhat larger selection of subs then town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its Þingholtsstræti 1 Nonni, and they also have smaller sizes for kids and weight watchers. 17. Kaffibrennslan something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just Pizza and pasta are the specialities, although they also have a fish of the Brave souls might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rubber boat), which Pósthússtræti 9 across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and day. The seafood pasta has exceptionally fresh fish, as is to be expected. might seem like an oversized relative of the ever-present pulsa. One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. The decor is nice for the mid-level price range, and they have a retro few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a smoking lounge upstairs. after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget, place to learn as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor. 46. Eldsmiðjan they are generous with the refills. Bragagata 38a Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly 24. Prikið 35. 3 Frakkar more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection 18. Rósenberg Bankastræti 12 of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can Baldursgata 14 Lækjargötu 2 Used to be a traditional coffee house which has been around longer also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with Perhaps the closest we have to a jazz club, and old instruments line the than any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic walls. People go there for conversation and listening to music rather crowd. A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. than dancing. The place tends to have jazz or blues type music. Regular also borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess. traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- players include Outsider legend Mike Pollock and Tom Waits cover ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re band Misery Loves Company. lucky, Chef Úlfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the 47. Vitabar 25. Rex clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Úlfar for Bergþórugata 21 Austurstræti 9 dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries A favourite hangout for Kate Winslet look-alikes. Rex is one of the forget to make a reservation! for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must posher hangouts, dress code is not insisted upon, but you’ll find yourself go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The out of place if you’re too casual. Also rumoured to be a haunt for gener- Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. ous middle aged ladies. 36. Pasta Basta Klapparstíg 38 An affordable Italian place, the pasta is in generous portions and the 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) 26. Thorvaldsen salad with grilled chicken is a good light option. The garden is nice, Laugavegur 20b Austurstræti 8 with a glass ceiling protecting punters from the wind and the rain at all Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the Posh as the fifth circle of hell. That said, they make a mean Mojito. times of year. Upstairs, the Blue Bar offers a more bar type atmosphere. same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the DJ´s on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive before 12 if you want theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al- to avoid the queue Theme nights during the week, wine and cheese on 37. Tapas ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and Wednesdays, Finlandia nights on Fridays and Sunday roast on, well, wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, Vesturgata 3b Sundays. Civilian attire is looked down upon. slips slightly over in the evening. �� For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening is well spent at Tapas, where you can vile away the evening having course 27. Gaukur á Stöng after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Recommended is 49. Pizza Pronto Tryggvagata 22 the garlic fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. If you don’t feel like Vallarstræti 4 Iceland’s oldest bar is now in it’s early twenties. During the day it’s a getting up right away afterwards, there’s also a lounge to lounge in, and Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night. �� �� pool pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by a mix the paintings there are worth a look. A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t �� of mainstream and underground bands. On weekends there is usually want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of �� a lot of action with cover bands playing everything from Britney to the three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Beatles. Admission is sometimes between 500-1000 weekends, but 38. Jómfrúin �� usually its free. Lækjargata 4 ������������ In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company ������������� Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first Laugavegur 81 �� �� ����������� 28. Dillon rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- ����������� Laugavegur 30 from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the �� This far up Laugavegur, Dillon is definitely the place to be. With morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street. �������������������������� ���������� reinforcements from bass brute Þröstur (Johnny for short) from the 39. Shalimar � Rock band Mínus, now doing his time on the other side of the bar Austurstræti 4 tending it, an air of something about to go down permeates. The DJ Prides itself on being the northernmost Indian restaurant in the world. � is the grandmother of Icelandic rock Andrea Gylfadóttir, in residence How this affects the food, we don’t know as there are no comparisons Opening night 11. February on Saturdays. It used to be a nice, horse themed place for a quiet drink, in town. The daily special, comprised of two dishes on your plate, goes Sun. 13. Feb. 19.00 • Fri. 18. Feb. 20.00 ����������� but no more. for roughly 1000kr. But we recommend the Chicken Tikka Masala, Sun. 20. Feb. 19.00 • Fri. 25. Feb. 20.00 �� known to be highly addictive. And if the curry gets to you, they have a �� Conductor: Kurt Kopecky • Director: Jamie Hayes ��������������� � self service ice cone machine. 29. Glaumbar Box office tel: +354 511 4200 ��������������� Tryggvagötu 20 The Icelandic Opera ������������ �� One of the few proper sport bars in Reykjavík, so you can go and watch 40. Við Tjörnina Ingólfsstræti ��������� whatever game happens to be on the TV screens. The establishment is Templarasundi 3 P.O. Box 1416 �� basically based around the bar, so you won´t have to go a long way for a One of the best known fish restaurants in Iceland. The cook is Súkkat 121 Reykjavík drink. Open until five, and has a reputation for late night partying member and Megas sidekick Gunni. It´s known for innovative fish [email protected] �� dishes made from a variety of rare fish and shellfish and related raw www.opera.is materials. Their respect for the raw materials is a tribute to fish and THE ICELANDIC OPERA shellfish, showing off their natural goodness without artificiality. ������������ OMUS D ESTHOU THEY DON’T GIVE CHANGE, REALLY GU SE Reykjavík has no trams, trains or subways, only buses. These yellow things can take you pretty much anywhere in the Reykjavík area. It’s a slow system and you might have to change buses a couple of times to get where you want to, though usually things run smoothly and on time. The price of a single fare is 220kr for an adult (60kr for children under 12). If you are in town for more than a few days, the nine ticket package for 1500kr would be a better deal. Bus cards valid for two weeks, a month or three months are also available. You have to pay as you step on board and it has to be the exact amount, unless you want to pay more for your ride. The driver cannot give you change. You can ask the driver for a free, time-limited transfer ticket if you need two buses to Hverfisgata 45 complete your journey. 101 Reykjavík The bus system is closed at night. You can catch your first bus between 6:40 and 7:00 in the morn- ing, and last call is around 24:00. The main bus stops in Reykjavík are Hlemmur and Lækjartorg, phone: 561-1200 where you’ll be able to get all the information you need. [email protected]

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ADDRESS BOOK ...continued from pg. 17 Museums Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3, p: 551-8666 ASÍ. Art Museum, Freyjugata 41, 511-5353 Vox Nordica Hotel, Suðurlandsbraut 2, p: 444-5050 A woollen raincoat cased in transparent plastic, ice cubes in the shape of Árbæjarsafn Folk Museum, Kistuhylur 4, p: 557-1111 Cafés Iceland, (Klakinn, as they call it), a sphere of lava as a mobile dwelling for Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, Sigtún, p: 553-2155 Bleika Dúfan, Laugavegur 21, p: 517-1980 hidden people. Each piece with one foot in heritage, the other gazing bravely Culture House, Hverfisgata 15, p: 545-1400 Café Paris, Austurstræti 14, p: 551-1020 towards its Internet-assisted future, whether figuratively or literally, and Einar Jónsson, Sculpture museum, Einarsgata, p: 551-3797 Café Roma, Laugavegi 118, p: 562-0020 Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery, Hamraborg 4, p:551-3797 Feng Shui, Laugavegur 42b, p: 551-8686 frequently with a healthy dose of dry, Nordic humour. Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfelsdalur, p: 586-8066 Grái Kötturinn, Hverfisgata 16a, p: 551-1544 The curators see it as an experiment in presenting the Icelandic people, the Hafnarborg Art Gallery, Srandgata 34 Hafnarfj, 555-0080 Kaffivagninn, Grandagarður 10, p: 551-5932 culture they come from and where they are heading; a pride and passion Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art museum, Tryggvagata 17, p: 590-1200 Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8, p: 588-0440 Icelandic Institute of Natural History, Hlemmur 5, p:590-0500 Mokka, Skólavörðustígur 3a, p: 552-1174 frequently mixed with a certain amount of discomfort, which the designers Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, Flókagata, p: 517-1290 Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall, p: 563-2169 have harnessed and turned to their advantage. Drying fish is not a sight Museum of Medical History, Neströð 170, p: 561-1016 Segafredo by Lækjartorg main square. that evokes the most pleasant of emotions in the average islander, (Valur, I National Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur 7, p: 515-9600 Te og Kaffi, Laugavegur 27, p: 533-6262 spelled it that way intentionally... how witty, huh?) [Very –ed], but when re- Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, p: 551-7030 Café, Bar and Bistro Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1750 interpreted as a lighting device, the outcome is remarkably beautiful. Ari í Ögri, Ingólfsstræti 3, p: 551-9660 Reykjavík Elestrivity Museum, Rafstöðvarvegur, p: 567-9009 Bar 11, Laugavegur 11, p: 511-1180 And while you’re there, the museum’s permanent collection is worth a look. Reykjavík Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1790 Café 22, Laugavegur 22, p: 511-5522 After decades of being shifted around various attics in Reykjavík, it has been Reykjavík Zoo & Family Park, Engjavegur, p: 575-7800 Café List, Laugavegur 20a, p: 511-1420 Saga Museum, Perlan Öskjuhlíð, p: 511-1517 housed since September in its recently refurbished location, documenting the Café Victor, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 561-9555 Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, Lauganestangi 70, p: 553-2906 entire history of the island’s settlement in various media and a vast array of Dubliner, Hafnarstræti 4, 511-3233 Galleries Gaukur á Stöng, Tryggvagata 22, p: 551-1556 impeccably preserved artefacts. 101 Gallery, Hverfisgata 18a Glaumbar, Tryggvagata 20, p: 552-6868 ‘Ómur’ is showing until May 1st in Þjóðminjasafn Íslands, Suðurgata 4. Entrance Gallery Kling og Bang, Laugavegi 23, p: 822-0402 Grand Rokk, Smiðjustígur 6, p: 551-5522 is ISK 600, or free on Wednesdays and for those under 18. Gallery Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14-16, p: 551-0400 Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20, p: 561-2240 Gallery Hnoss, Skólavörðustígur 16, p: 561-8485 Hverfisbar, Hverfisgata 20, p: 511-6700 Gallery i8, Klapparstígur 33, p: 551-3666 Jón Forseti, Aðalstræti 10, p: 551-0962 Gallery Meistari Jakob, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 552-7161 Kaffi Kúltur, Hverfisgötu 18, p: 530-9314 VOICES IN THE Gallery Skuggi, Hverfistaga 39, p: 511-1139 Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1, p: 551-1588 Gallery Smíðar og skart, Skólavörðustíg 16a, p: 561-4090 Kaffibrennslan, Pósthússtræti 9, p: 561-3600 Gallery Tukt, Pósthússtræti 3-5, p: 520-4600 Leikhúskjallarinn, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-6010 Handverk og Hönnun, Aðalstræti 12, p: 551-7595 Litli ljóti andarunginn, Lækjargata 6b, p: 552-9815 WATERFALLS Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgötu 4, p: 562-8990 Nasa, by Austurvöllur, p: 511-1313 Safn, Laugavegur 37, p: 561-8777 Nelly’s, Þingholtsstræti 2, p: 551-2477 The Icelandic Printmakers Association, Tryggvagata 17, p: 588-7576 Mojito, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7905 Other Pravda, Austurstræti 22, p: 552-9222 Klink og Bank, Brautarholt, p: 822-0402 Prikið, Bankastræti 12, p: 551-3366 Salurinn Concert Hall, Hamraborg 6, p: 570-0400 Póstbarinn, Pósthússtræti 13, 562-7830 Tónlistarþróunarmiðstöð (TÞM), Hólmaslóð 2, p: 824-3002 Rex bar club, Austurstræti 9, p: 552-55 Rósenberg, Lækjargötu 2, p: 551-8008 Theaters Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30 Icelandic Dance Company, Listabraut 4, p: 588-0900 Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, p: 562-3232 National Theatre of Iceland, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-1200 Thorvaldsen bar, Austurstræti 8, p: 511-1413 Reykjavík City Theatre, Listabraut 3, p: 568-5500 Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4, p: 511-3040 The Icelandic Opera, Ingólfsstræti, p: 511-6400 Fastfood Restaurants Bæjarins bestu, Tryggvagata, p: 894-4515 3 Frakkar, Baldursgata 14, p: 552-3939 Bernhöftsbakarí, Bergstaðastæti 13, p: 551-3083 Café Opera, Lækjargata 2, p: 552-9499 Eldsmiðjan, Bragagata 38a, p: 562-3838 Hornið, Hafnarstræti 15, p: 551-3340 First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum), Laugavegur 20b, p: 552-8410 Jómfrúin, Lækjargata 4, p: 551-0100 Hlölli, Ingólfstorgi, p: 511-3500 Maru, Aðalstræti 12, p: 511-4440 Mama Taco’s, Lækjargata 8, 551-5513 Pasta Basta, Klapparstígur 38, p: 511-2238 Nonnabiti, Hafnarstræti 11, p: 551-2312 Sjávarkjallarinn, Aðalstræti 2, p: 511-1212 Pizza 67, Tryggvagata 26, p: 561-9900 Tapas, Vesturgata 3b, p: 551-2344 Pizza Pronto, Vallarstræti 4, p: 517-5445 Tjarnarbakkinn, Vonarstræti 2, p: 562-9700 Reykjavík Bagel Company, Laugavegur 81, p: 511-4500 Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9, p: 511-3474 Vitabar, Bergþórugata 21, p: 551-7200 H.S

Rúrí represented Iceland at the “I have never experienced as much 50th Venice Biennale 2003 with the warmth and kindness at an opening multimedia installation Archive of my work before. It was as if the - endangered waters. The work is child within came bursting out in finally displayed in Reykjavík at the people when they got in touch with National Gallery of Iceland, and the artwork. People often feel joy will be until the 13th of March. around water, perhaps the sounds The work contains 52 waterfalls from the waterfalls opened a space that we have almost lost, have lost for that in them. or will lose through dam building. I have also heard that people in Rúrí has recorded the voice of each France cried at the exhibition when waterfall and when you pull out the they realized what the work was image from the archive the waterfall telling them, that most of these speaks to you. waterfalls will be no more.”

Blue Gold Decorating Vesuvius What was the inspiration for the show When asked what is ahead for her, Archive – endangered waters? she said, “I am preparing work that Retrospective “Nature without doubt. I respect will be a part of a new sculpture- "One of Iceland's most respected and versatile artists, a "renaissance man" in the true sense of the word." nature deeply, I connect with her. garden in the mountainsides of Whenever we do something to her, it Vesuvius, Italy. I am also working affects all of us. Each nation has the on two sculptures that I have been duty to treat their environment and commissioned to do for a museum in nature with full responsibility and Germany.” respect. This planet and its whole Some artists have a unique access to biosphere is our joint responsibility. the collective consciousness and their Hörður Ágústsson There is an extra dimension to work speaks to everyone because it Open daily 10 - 17 4. February - 24. April 2005 our planet that most Icelanders contains levels of truth and vision we Free entrance on Mondays are not aware of because of the all can relate to. Rúrí’s works have a abundance of water we have. It mythological sense to them. She is a is the fact that water has become modern mythmaker. the blue gold on our planet. Pure In works like The Gate, a memorial water is a very fragile aspect of the for missing persons, The Rainbow planet’s biosphere. If the mentality at the Leif Eriksson Air Terminal of power and greed is put aside then in Keflavík, the Glassrain and her it becomes clear what really matters; masterpiece Archive – endangered water and nourishment, not oil.” waters, she makes that quite clear. Listasafn Reykjavíkur / The Reykjavik Art Museum - KJARVALSSTAÐIR, Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík www.listasafnreykjavikur.is - [email protected] - simi (+354) 517 1290 - fax (+354) 590 1201 The Child within Comes Bursting Out What sort of reactions has the exhibition by Birgitta Jónsdóttir gotten? 21

dór Laxness (winner of the Nobel Prize for Litera- Mon-Thu 13:00-18:00, Fri 13:00 - 17:00 ture in 1955) and his family for more than half a Various exhibitions by young people between the A gallery with Icelandic design run by ten female century. It has now been opened to the public as ages of 16–25, run by the Youth Centre “Hitt artists. a museum, unchanged form when Laxness lived Húsið” there. In the reception building you can watch a Gallery Fold multimedia presentation dedicated to Laxness’s Gallery Hulduhólar Mon-Fri 13:30-18:00 Sat 11:00-17:00 Sun life and work. Sat 11:00-14:00 exhibition Sveinsson will reveal the latest devel- 14:00-18:00 Ceramic artwork from Steinunn Marteinsdóttir. opments of his urban visions inspired by nature. One of the largest Galleries in Iceland, works by Kling og Bang Gallery A solo exhibition “Do Not Let My Fragile Appear- many know artists. Thu-Sun 14:00-18:00 Teddi - Workshop ance Deceive You” works of the artist Bjargey Installation: “The sickness of Benedict” by 10:00-18:00 every day Ólafsdóttir. Bad Taste Gallery Magnús Árnason. The artist asks for assistance Open workshop of tree sculptures by the artist Bad Taste is the record label that launched The in solving the mystery of “the sickness of Bene- Teddi. LISTINGS Nordic House Sugercubes, Reptile, Ham, Maus, Bjork, Sigur dict,” a mystery that contains clues of smell, Mon-Fri 8:00-17:00, Sat&Sun 12:00-17:00 Rós, Minus and many more. The label has opened sound, adventure of youth and the nightmare of Tonje Strøm. a record store and a gallery in the city centre. aging. Magnús is considered to be the darkest FRIDAY In the gallery you can see the famous Lobster or hope of Icelandic art. Note; the exhibition is not National Gallery of Iceland Fame exhibition witch was in the Reykjavik Art suitable for sensitive people and children should FEBRUARY 11 Want to be seen in the listings? Send us 11:00-17:00 every day Museum - Harbour house last year and got great attend in a company of adults. Icelandic opera a mail to [email protected] and your Exhibition Archive – endangered waters by RÚRI. reviews and was very intersting. 20:00 Comprising 52 large photographs on film, it is Gerðuberg Cultural Center Puccini’s Tosca will be opening with Elín Ósk Ós- event will be announced in the next issue, also an archive documenting the waterfalls of Nýlistasafnið, The Living Art Museum Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. karsdóttir in the title role. and the best thing is that being in the Iceland’s highlands. Icelandic artworks from Two exhibitions: A group of 8 artist exhibit “Two Two exhibition:Photographs - sculptures - videos listings is free! 1930-1945, A retrospective of Icelandic art from dimension-dimension.” showing contemporary – drawings by Rosemarie Trockel. She is inter- the period when the landscape, narrative expres- Icelandic paintings. And Jean B. Koeman, well national known because of her complex and sionism and abstract were in the spotlight. known Belgian artist, makes a homage to Piero controversial work that addresses contemporary SATURDAY Manzoni´s work entitled ‘Socles de Monde’. concerns, especially of women. “Woman” and her Reykjavik Municipal Archives National Film Archive of Iceland FEBRUARY 12 Mon. to Fri. 10-16 place in society. Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery 8. & 12. Feb. Icelandic silent movies from 1919 Hafnarborg Art Gallery And Exhibition in Boginn by Sigríður from Vigur Documents from institutions and municipal Opening of two exhibition; The Press Photo Of – 1929 Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00 island. Works of art made from human hair are companies in Reykjavik are stored in the Mu- The Year 2004, The annual competition and ex- 15. & 19. Feb. Herr Arnes pengar, dir. Mauritz Bjarni Sigurbjörnsson and Haraldur Karlsson a rarity, and only a handful of Icelanders have nicipal Archives and make out the main part of hibition of the Icelandic Photojournalist Associa- Stiller exhibit paintings and video.The exhibition is an learned this old craft. Sigríður learned the art the archives. tion. Over 200 photographs have been selected 22. & 26.Feb. Der Letzte Mann, dir. F.W.Murnau installation, were paintings and moving images from her mother. Show starts 21st of Feb, ends 1. & 5. March. Nashville, dir. Robert Altman interact to form a visual totality, endeavouring from 1.800 submitted to the competition. Gallery Hnoss 13th of March. Ragnar Axelssons “Different World” photographs Mon-Fri 12:00-18:00 Sat 11:00-16:00 8. & 12. March. Picnic at Hanging Rock, dir. to create an exciting environment of thought, Peter Weir ancient and new. from different places such as Iceland, Siberia and Works by artists Auður Eysteinsdóttir and Hildur Culture House Hallsteinn Sigurðsson is the “Sculptor of the Lithuania. Margrétardóttir. 11:00-17:00 every day The National Museum of Iceland month” of February and Helgi Hjaltalín is the A few exhibitions: The National Museum – as it Gallery i8 New permanent exhibitions, giving a comprehen- “Sculptor of the month” of March..The project is was. Alabaster, horn, silver and driftwood. sive picture of Iceland’s cultural history through done in cooperation with The Reykjavik Associa- The Poet of the Month – Davíð Stefánsson: What SUNDAY Wed-Fri 11:00-17:00, 13:00-17:00 Sat. the ages to the present day. The exhibitions Exhibition by Finnur Arnar, he exhibits video tion of Sculptors. makes a poet the most beloved amongst the will cover 2000 m2 and be an exciting journey FEBRUARY 13 installations. Jónína Guðnadóttir exhibits sculptures starting nation? The Artist of the Month – Bragi Ásgeirs- Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum through time. March 4th. Further information at www.jonina.is. son: Over half a century, 1951-2004. Home Reykjavík Museum of Photography Rule 1904: Iceland steps into the modern world. 15:00 Hafnarfjörður Museum Lecture: Art historian and Director of Reykjavik Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat&Sun 13:00- Reykjavík Museum of Photography Icelandic Musical Heritage: Traditional Icelandic 13:00-17:00 every day Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat&Sun 13:00- Art Museum Eirikur Þorláksson gives a talk on 17:00. In the main exhibitions you can see the constant verse. The Library Room: Landmark books of Ice- Exhibition Hotspots by Bára photographer. 17:00. the art of Hörður Ágústsson. exhibition “Thus it was…” the history of Haf- landic cultural history. Meeting Rooms: Theme Exhibition titled “Hot Spots” by Bára K. Kristin- exhibits on historic figures and art. The chess Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum narfjörður and its neighbourhood from Vikings to sdóttir. The theme is greenhouses in an exotic our time. table from the 1972 world championship match 10:00-17:00 every day sense as a parallel to the garden of Eden. between Fisher and Spassky. THU-SUN Permanent exhibition: Works from the Kjarval Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery FEBRUARY 17-20 Collection. Winter: Guided tours scheduled on Mon- Klink og Bank Two exhibitions; Aim XI, a joint project by the Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00. 14:00-18:00 Around the downtown 101 Reykjavík days, Wednesdays and Fridays at 13:00. Two exhibition; The Press Photo Of The Year Winter Light Festival, see the pullout for further artists Helgi Hjaltalín Eyjólfsson and Pétur Örn Guided tours for groups by arrangement. Italian Architecture on show: From Futurism to a Friðriksson. The Aim activities have been called 2004, The annual competition and exhibition of information. Old buildings and artefacts depicting life in Reyk- Possible Future ‘Male Art’ where the main focus is man’s Game the Icelandic Photojournalist Association. Over javík through the centuries. A highly qualified scientific committee selected and meaning. And an exhibition by Hörður 200 photographs have been selected from 1.800 65 works designed by different architects from Ágústsson - Retrospective, Hörður Ágústsson is Volcano show: Red rock cinema submitted to the competition. Italy and recently built all over the world. The SUNDAY born 1922, is one of Iceland’s most respected 11:00-22:00 every day Ragnar Axelssons “Different World” photographs buildings are illustrated by photographs, original and versatile artists, a “renaissance man” in the If you don’t want to wait for the next volcanic from different places such as Iceland, Siberia and drawings and models. An historical section, with FEBRUARY 20 true sense of the word. eruption, then just go watch a video of the last, Lithuania. original drawings and written texts, remembers Nordic House 14:00 it’s less dangerous and much more reliable then Fugl - REYKJAVÍK PROJECT SPACE the masters, the critics and historians of the nature. 20th century. Children’s Films at the Nordic House: Tur och Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-16:00 retur (Swedish). Screenings are in the original Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00 Gallery Sævar Karl Exhibition “Art Nurses” by Anna Hallin & Ósk Gallery of the Icelandic printmakers as- language. Erró – Scapes: An exhibition of works from Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 Vilhjálmsdóttir. sociation Culture House private collections and from the Erró Collection. Exhibition by Hulda Vilhjálmsdóttir ends Febru- Safn Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 Influences: Exhibition by Brian Griffin photogra- ary 12 Karólína is the artist of the year 2005 at Print- 14:00 pher. This is the first retrospective exhibition of Wed-Fri 14:00-18:00. Sat&Sun 14:00-17:00 Programme on the theme of Icelandic Musical Stephan Stephensen exhibits photographs in makers Friends and Icelandic Printmakers As- the works of Brian Griffin. Gallery Kolbrún S. Kjarval Heritage. Two accomplished musicians and a new series titled AirCondition and Jóhann sociation. Urban Nature: The artist Þórður Ben Sveinsson Uniquely designed, hand-made ceramics. scholars give talks in relation to two recent CD Jóhannsson music installation is based on his was one of the original members of the so-called ASÍ museum publications with traditional chanting and sing- composition Honourable Presidents. SÚM group in Iceland in the 1960´s. At an ex- Gallery smíðar og skart Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 ing. Folk singers will perform relevant traditional Sun-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat: 10:00-16:00 hibition in Reykjavík in 1982 he introduced for Gljúfrasteinn - Laxness museum Two exhibition: Ólöf Nordal shows video-art and verse. the first time his vision of a new kind of urban Selection of fine art, both functional and sculp- sculptures and Ósk Vilhjálmsdóttir shows video- tural. Ceramics, paintings and graphics. Thu-Sun, 10:00-17:00 Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum environment and architecture in Iceland. In this Gljúfrasteinn was the home and workplace of Hall- art and installation. Kirsuberjatréð 15:00 Gallery Sævar Karl Belt Sanders Drag Racing – Open participation. Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 Contemporary art. Free admission. ends March 10 WEDNESDAY Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum MARCH 2 13:00-16:00 every day Hafnarborg Art Gallery The Man and Material. A retrospective exhibition 12:00 of works by Asmundur Sveinsson. Sesselja Kristjánsdóttir will sing at the Lunch Telecommunications Museum Concert accompanied by Antoníu Hevesi. The Tue,Thu&Sun 11:00-17:00 Lunch Concerts are always free. Pictures and items related to the history of tele- communications. SATURDAY Reykjavík Zoo and Family Park MARCH 5 10:00-18:00 every day Hafnarborg Art Gallery Icelandic domestic animals, local animals and birds, such as reindeers, seals and falcons. The 15:00 Opening of an exhibition titled “Adam & Eve and Park is part of it and offers various activities for “ Memory-Images from the Westman Islands” by the whole family. the US illustrator Barbara Westmann , she has es- Reykjavík Botanical Garden tablished a special place for herself in the history 10:00-22:00 every day of art with her personal style and subjects. Contains an extensive collection of native Icelan- dic flora, as well as thousands of imported plants Nordic House and trees. 17:00 Alexander Vaulin – piano concert. Edvard Grieg, Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum Louis Glass, Jean Sibelius and Wilhelm Stenham- Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00 mar. Works of Einar Jónsson, Iceland´s first sculptor. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum Sat and Sun 14:00-17:00 SUNDAY Acquisitions and Donations: The exhibition com- MARCH 6 prises 23 sculptures by Sigurjón Ólafsson from Nordic House different periods of his life, representing a broad 14:00 scale of styles and materials, ranging from doler- Children’s Films at the Nordic House: Rölli ja ite, wood and plaster to various types of metal. metsänhenki (Finnish).Screenings are in the origi- He is considered one of the pioneers of Icelandic nal language. Modernist artists. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum Numismatic Collection of the Central Bank 15:00 Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Closed 12:00-13:00. Lecture; Guðmundur Oddur Magnússon professor Icelandic coins and banknotes. at the Iceland Academy of Art gives a talk on Icelandic Institute of Natural History graphic design by Hörður Ágústsson. Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00 The scientific collections contain specimens of animals, plants, minerals, rocks and fossils. Saga Museum We were also 12:00-17:00 every day. The Sagamuseum intimately recreates key mo- ments in Icelandic history, moments that deter- gonna have picks mined the fate of our people and which give a compelling view into how Icelanders have lived and thought for more than a millennium. In this here, but there’s so vibrant, multidimensional museum, both Icelandic and foreign visitors are given an opportunity to learn about Icelandic history in a way that is both much stuff going educational and fun. Reykjavík Electricity Museum on this month we Sun 13:00-17:00 A historical survey of the uses of electricity in the city of Reykjavik, from the time of the first couldn’’t fit any hydroelectric station at Elliðaár, in operation from 1921 onwards. in. Guess you’ll Reykjavík City Library Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 Books and periodicals in Icelandic as well as Eng- just have to help lish, Scandinavian and other languages. It has a children books and a great comic book section in yourselves out! English, CD’s and video’s. Gallery Meistari Jakob Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-14:00 The gallery is run by eleven artists who work with ceramics, textiles, printmaking, paintings and you will always find one of them at the gallery. Gallery Tukt , Skynjun first album, aptly obviously blew a lot

Fræbbblarnir are the latest in a line of major 90s

, a strange little creature growling Dót is unlikely to have a similar effect. Time Money & Patience. The duo has weren’t even blinks in their fathers’ eyes

Antlew/Maximum’s Igore

Electric Fungus Electric Chase the Bird “master” to the hand that feeds the same it time craving an while identity of its at own. The quartet also appears to be caught in two minds between the lure of commercial success and being true to their own vaguely artistic present even beliefs, though mostly through occasion. the for recruited musicians gifted the short falls approach Igore’s being time the For of out titled clearly put plenty of thought into their work and manage to produce such of inclusion the with record a conventional, solid, if slightly illustrious artists as Sage Francis adding extra weight. on featured stars guest of plenty also are There Hæsta hendin’s But maybe you’re into hip-hop and if that’s the that’s if and hip-hop into you’re maybe But case you could do a lot worse than checking Let’s just hope they don’t follow the path documenting a concert held at the end of last year. Instead of tinkering with the classic hits, quartet the minds, people’s into carved already (along with the 80 piece opts for some of its lesser-known material and orchestra) mostly out. way easy the taking not for credit deserves overly this or Nýdönsk of fan a been never I’ve pop bands to join forces with symphony the with Icelandic their new album, Nýdönsk album, any problems. of them away back in the late 70s but their new their but 70s late the in back away them of The band sticks to isn’t what a lot it actually, but enough knows, to cook which without down up goes that dish punk lightweight a So while Santiago seemingly make music for warhorses old the to up it’s maybe elders, their to satisfy the kids. Being Iceland’s first proper punk band Búdrýgindi FEBRUARY is another rock band but this

second album,

albums The four members of theatrical splicing of pop with classical music but the two outfits in question in outfits two the but music classical with pop of splicing theatrical It time. same the at fun having while possible as harmonious as probably are I’m so album the to listening those ultimately and audience the to out carries self-titled debut, namely some of Scandinavia’s of some namely debut, self-titled most prominent hip-hop artists. Erpur Eyvindarson Frontman was of course the genre’s poster-boy when his band, XXX Rottweiler, came bursting onto the scene a few years ago. Up until then, Icelandic hip-hop had mainly heading be to appears and underground stayed labelled being it of much after there down back “unprofitable” by the hardly bigwigs. encourages second This thoughts from the effort industry, but then again that may well be in the best interest of the many when Fræbbblarnir were at their peak, but still know a thing or two about producing good, catchy punk rock songs. Even if its success sparked envy from certain quarters, the band’s energetic debut, entertaining Kúbakóla, to say was the highly least and its two past successor, these over matured Juxtapós naturally They’ve territory. finds similar in sensations the teenage approach tongue-in-cheek Búdrýgindi’s in exuberance youthful the but years nine lives referred to in the album title. much in the Brain Police arsenal for you. fine hip-hop artists around the country. capable of so much more. is still there to be enjoyed. Brain Police Nýdönsk – Skynjun / Santiago – Chase the Antlew/Maximum Bird / Fungus Electric / – Police Brain / Fræbbblarnir Juxtapós – Búdrýgindi – Dót / – Time, Money & Patience / Hæsta hendin – Hæsta hendin / Líf Igore – 9 until slumber deep a in is industry record Icelandic the year, the of most For the bright and blinking Christmas lights send it into a list endless seemingly the of frenzy eight at look quick a in Here’s season. the of spirit the true the later stages of 2004: of albums released in ones will hardly be won over. sure the old fans will be happy although new Santiago’s of success in both categories with the band already down to the last of the time with a capital R. high They’ve been since riding recruiting singer and album second Jenni eponymous for their sees the band chasing decent melodies rather than birds. Unfortunately, they prove hard to get a hold of, leaving the band and listeners alike feeling confused. With hints of jazz and the during peaks its reaches album the country more sombre moments but the flirtation with contemporary adult music band a seems of age young relatively the given strange somewhat keeps the momentum going with the band’s mighty sound reaching a new level. by an immense Driven force (which the actual songs into you’re unless for), outlets as serve basically that all isn’t there thing, stoner-rock heavy this

Sex Division, an 80’s theme New Wave Ska band, Singapore Sling are still looking for a drummer after the 60’s guitar heroes The Shadows are rumoured to be coming to Presidential favourites Trabant are due with an album out are currently recording their debut album in their departure of Þórir. Their new bass player is a girl named Iceland to play a concert next summer. Meanwhile, Plaid will be at the end of March. The music has been described as Heard thru hometown of Keflavík. Another Keflavík band, Bíbí. Þórir will continue to sit in with the band, though, playing along with Addi Exos at Gaukurinn on 4th, and Converge “amoral, sodomic electro-pop.” Some are already betting on punkers Æla, are also in the studio. Is the cradle of which plans to make its return to the Reykjavik stage in are playing at the Cave on the 9th. They played Iðnó last year and this as the album of the year. the Grapevine Icelandic rock set to reclaim the throne as the music the middle of February. happen to be Alli the ad man’s favourite band. centre of Iceland? Árni Viðar

by SÆR 1991-1994 CURVER conscious nod to The Cure, Joy Division and conscious nod to The Cure, Joy Division and even Slint, to name a few. Obviously, a decade (or more in some cases) has passed since these songs originally saw the light of day but that only adds a bit of nostalgia to an already charismatic album that’s always worth a closer inspection, especially if you missed the first time. slightly naïve, teenager realizing his potential slightly naïve, teenager realizing his potential and searching for new ways to achieve it. Throughout the 17 songs featured on this album, Curver thrashes out some sonorous guitar riffs in the vein of My Bloody Valentine and Sonic Youth while his computer provides the beats and background noises. In fact, Curver isn’t simply a one-man band but a collaboration, if you like, between man and machine, as noted in the informative liner notes. Some of “the band’s” earlier work is especially noisy and almost brutal while the songs on Haf lean much further into a a dark, distant and more cold direction, with it’s the work of an ambitious and intrepid, if it’s the work of an ambitious and intrepid, if things like eating He’s turned everyday 22 Sea Change titled Sær 1991-1994, is complex and abrasive, even ear-piercing at times, but with elements of a certain pop-sensibility that seems to follow Curver around wherever he goes. Above all last year along with tracks from several compilations and one previously unreleased. Clocking in at 80 minutes, the resulting album, more as a multi-artist than a musician these more as a multi-artist than a musician these days. In celebration of Haf’s ten-year anniversary, the album was re-released at the end of before. Under his Curver moniker, he was very before. Under his Curver moniker, he was very has much at the forefront of this new wave and carried that momentum ever since, although very much a product of an era that saw the emergence of alternative acts such as Maus and Stilluppsteypa who, at the time, sounded like nothing heard in the local music scene hamburgers and tidying his room into a form hamburgers and tidying his room into a form of art, but it was through his not so everyday music that Birgir Örn Thoroddsen originally made his mark. His debut album, Haf, is 23 never given a concert, and insists she never will. Last December, her songs were being performed live by members of Múm, Slowblow and Kitchen Motors at a concert at the Opera. “It was MARvellous, wasn’t it!” She shines a big happy smile and gets so excited she becomes hyperactive, meddling around in her kitchen. In rapid succession she mentions her family, dwarfs, Hitler and Bush and how peaceful the earth would be if everyone had relatives in other countries. She herself finds peace and a purpose in her music. “I am very much alone, but I am never lonesome, because I can play music whenever I want.” Making up a tune usually takes her four or five hours, but the real difficulty is finding a title for it. Sometimes she thinks about it night and day.

Never Marry Anyone You Don’t Really Love At the moment she is working on her fourtieth album. As she plays it to me, she makes up a little love story that connects the tunes. “A boy is on his way to a date – can you hear how light his steps are? I think he is dancing on the streets...” she says as

H.S she imitates his walk. Her new Casio is the playground of her dreams. Though she creates a lot of sound In fact, some of the lyrics to her attracted the interest of the manager effects by herself, it provides a good songs date back to her childhood in who persuaded Sigriður to release deal of inspiration. “A lot of the TEABAGS & TUNES Denmark, when at the age of eight her songs on CD and sell them. sounds on the Casio are interesting, or nine, Sigríður started writing By that time she had gathered 240 but have the wrong name. This “ When I play music, I am playing around like a child,” says rhymes as gifts for her family. In melodies. one, for example, is definitely not Sigríður Níelsdóttir as she lifts her legs and pretends to play the 1949 she came to Iceland to work a bagpipe!” It does, in fact, rather as a housemaid for a year, “but Family, Dwarfs, Hitler and Bush resemble a piano. Before I leave she Casio with her feet. She selects the flavour of her tea by closing somehow I’m still here,” she says. “Famous? Perhaps I am. I never gives me one final piece of advice: her eyes and picking a teabag from a little wooden box. She is the As soon as her daughters had grown tried to be,” she says. Although her “Never marry anyone you don’t really kind of old lady who has the wisdom of age but is still young at up, she began recording music in her CDs are being sold as far away as love,” she says as I walk out the door. heart. Within three hours she has told me more about the history flat, playing the Casio and singing. Japan, and Slowblow invited her of Germany than my German grandparents have in their entire The huge amount of cassettes she to contribute two songs to the Nói bought at the record store Japis soon Albínói soundtrack, Sigríður has lifetimes. by Julika Huether 24

From the get-go you might have to dig deep to find a reason to buy this CD. It isn’t until track 6 on “It’s Only Rock n Roll” that the band really comes to life and starts shootin’ from the hip. It becomes obvious that a little more objectivity and ambition is needed in the Stones camp regarding live releases. I have bootlegs that, as usual, blow the official live CDs out of the water.

Charlie’s Good Tonight Mick, where the hell is the fantastic Charlie is brilliant and right on Chicago Blues Harp I know damn the button as usual. Track one well you can play!? Now Keith, he’s on CD2 is the hottest version of doin’ some tasty guitar work and “ NEIGHBOURS” I have ever the rest of the band is cookin’ pretty heard! Now this one makes this trip good, but then Ron Wood comes worthwhile, fantastic drum work, full in with some shit (awful tone & throttle Chuck-Berryish guitars and tasteless solo) that’s definitely killin’ bass like stampeding rhinos. Then my dick. Muddy Waters used to stop BAM they fall on their face with a his band if somebody hit a bum note lame ass version of the great rock and tell the guilty party to stop it song off Exile on Mainstreet “Rocks because it was hurting his dick!;) Off.” Next up is “Can’t Ya Hear Me Not to Be Messed With Knockin.” The intro to this song A great reggae song with Keith by Keith Richards on the original on vocals is “You Don’t Have To version is one of the best guitar licks/ Mean It” that I’m sure I’d be raving intros in rock n roll history. When about if I smoked a couple of his you hear it you can imagine flames Jamaican brand cigarettes. Last but shootin’ out of his ass, but all we get not least by a long shot is a shit hot on this version is a little smoke. version of “EVERYBODY NEEDS SOMEBODY TO LOVE” with Where’s Rubin When You Need the Great Solomon Burke as guest Him? singer; the whole band is kickin’ ass Track 9 brings us to “Rock Me and I can just see in my mind the Baby.” I still say I would love to see party really gettin’ out of hand now, the Stones get down to the basics tables & chairs flyin’ everywhere, and hire Rick Rubin or Jack White snacks whipped around the room and make the kinda cut-the- crap- like confetti and one gal dancin’ back-to-the-roots CD I know they with her panties on her head as Live are capable of. I have heard enough Licks comes to an end. Completists/ studio bootlegs to know that the Collectors will buy this, people Stones are still a badass blues band, who went to see The Stones on the HURTING MY DICK: but this version of “Rock Me” just Live Licks Tour will want this for a ain’t giving me a hard on and if you memo, but hardcore fans won’t mess gonna mess with this blues classic with it at all. on an official live CD you better A Review of the Rolling Stones dig up somethin better than this! by Mike Pollock

thehottest

placein Iceland´s coolest city find out what’s going on at www.pravda.is 25 Hressó: Duet Tube, then DJ Heiðar Austmann Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 Gaukur á Stöng: Retro rockers Jet Black Joe Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & Nasa: Reykjavík winter festival, see festival dance music LISTINGS guide pullout in this issue of Grapevine Amsterdam: Live band, mostly rock covers Grand Rokk: The Akureyri invasion: Bands: Skyt- Ari í Ögri: Troubadour duet Acoustics turnar, Hvannadalsbræður, Helgi & Hljóðfæralei- Hressó: Troubadour Þór Óskar, then DJ Valdi kararnir, Stjáni P & Co, to name a few. Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour Music and nightlife events usually Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Sváfnir Sig. Downstairs: Live coverband Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Halli & Kalli start around 21:00, unless otherwise Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour stated. Pubs close at 01.00 on Downstairs: Live coverband WEDNESDAY weekdays and much, much later on MARCH 2 weekends. For those just wanting TUESDAY Kaffibarinn: DJ Árni Sveins to party, the pubs and clubs don´t Sirkus: Guest DJ get crowded until after midnight on FEBRUARY 22 Café Cultura: Tango Night Kaffibarinn: Don Balli Funk weekends, although Thursday is a Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Svafar semi-official night out. WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FEBRUARY 23 MARCH 3 Sirkus: Guest DJ Kaffibarinn: DJ Lazer Prikið: Live music with Friskó, then DJ Rósa Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- FRIDAY Café Cultura: Tango Night gamix FEBRUARY 11 Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Svafar Café Rósenberg: Elías plays songs from his new Nasa: Bands Hjálmar and Jagúar, two of the Nasa, February 11th album “N ekki hvað” more popular bands in Iceland play tonight. Ad- THURSDAY Sólon: Greenroom session: DJ’s Tommi White & mission only 500ISK HJÁLMAR AND JAGÚAR Andrés upstairs and troubadours downstairs Café Cultura: Carnival Party FEBRUARY 24 Café Victor: Kronenbourg Night: DJ’s / Live Kaffibarinn: DJ Árni Sveins I gotta be honest. When I first heard that there was an Icelandic funk outfit, Hressó: Band Vax plays covers music Hverfisbar: DJ Bigfoot Gaukur á Stöng: Bands: Days of our Lives, Ske Hressó: Troubadours Dadd & Aron I was really suspicious. When did The Funk come to Iceland? Who dares and Brúðarbandið Bar 11: DJ Haffi Hverfisbar: Troubadours Sjonni & Gunni Óla to say they can bring The Funk to the people? Jagúar does, and then some. Kaffibarinn: DJ Árni E De Boomkikker: DJ Heavy Metal Sirkus: DJ Chuck Sirkus: DJ Lazer Never mind the virtuosity of the musicians. The real secret to their success is Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- FRIDAY Prikið: DJ Maggi Legó their live act. Anyone not dancing at this show, which also features award- gamix MARCH 4 Amsterdam: DJ Steini winning reggae sensation Hjálmar, should be checked for a pulse Prikið: DJ’s Erna & Ellen Hressó: Band Vax plays covers, then DJ Heiðar Café Victor: DJ Uncle Heisi Sólon: Greenroom session: DJ’s Tommi White & Austmann Pravda Club: DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour Hressó: Troubadours Daddi & Aron Andrés upstairs and troubadours downstairs De Boomkikker: DJ Heavy Metal Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- Downstairs: Live coverband Hverfisbar: Troubadours Sjonni & Gunni Óla Café Victor: Kronenbourg Night: DJ’s / Live Amsterdam: DJ Master gamix Gaukur á Stöng: XFM night: Bands: Mínus, Grand Rokk: Young troubadour Lára from Kefla- music Café Victor: DJ Mr. Metro: Dance & RnB music Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 Brain Police, Botnleðja, Killin Pablo (UK), Vinyl, vík plays tonight Ömmukaffi: Live Music tonight: First Gerald Gad- Pravda Club: DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & Solid I.V. and Hoffman. Admission only 1000ISK, wa (US) performs an acoustic set, and then jazz Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- dance music if you like rock, you’re a fat looser if you miss gamix this gig. Kaffibarinn: DJ’s Ellen & Eva Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 SATURDAY Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & dance music FEBRUARY 12 Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Helgi Valur Grand Rokk: Band Hjálmar just received the Icelandic music award for best rock album, also Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Halli & Kalli playing tonight is troubadour KK. Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour Downstairs: Live coverband Bar 11: Band Úlpa plays, opening for them is Troubadour Rúnar Gaukur á Stöng: Coverband Bermuda SATURDAY Nasa: Coverband Í svörtum fötum. Admission 1500ISK MARCH 5 Hverfisbar: DJ Bigfoot Prikið: DJ Jói & drummer Addi (yes, DJ&Drummer) Sirkus: DJ KGB Café Cultura: DJ Silja Café Victor: DJ Uncle Heisi Pravda Club: DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- gamix Kaffibarinn: DJ’s Edda & Adda Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & dance music Ari í Ögri: Troubadour duet Acoustics Gaukur á Stöng, February 18th Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Helgi Valur Hressó: Troubadours Böddi & Danni, DJ Heiðar BACON Austmann Gaukur á Stöng on February 25th It’s not just for breakfast anymore. I Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour Downstairs: Live coverband first saw this band at Klink og Bank, THE SHOW THAT YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST expecting the worst with a name like SEE OR ELSE COMMIT SEPUKKU “Bacon,” and was mindblowingly WEDNESDAY Every issue of Grapevine will now pick one show out of our listings to rec- proven wrong. I said it then and I’ll FEBRUARY 16 ommend above all others. If you don’t see at least that show, then nothing say it now: Bacon are the Icelandic Kaffibarinn: DJ Lazer Prikið: DJ Rósa short of killing yourself will ever erase your shame. In this issue, the show to Butthole Surfers (pre-1990), and by Ömmukaffi February 24th Sirkus: Guest DJ see features punk veterans Fræbbblarnir, old school rap clowns Dáðadrengir that I mean innovative, surprising, Café Cultura: Tango Night and lysergic rockers Bacon. Three bands, three genres of music, one fantas- UHU flashback-inducing compositions. tic fucking show. See them all at Gaukur á Stöng on February 25, or start Jazz band UHU played on the Sharing the stage with Bacon will THURSDAY sharpening your Hanto knife now. Grapevine boat for our first party of be Limill, Hoffmann, Ensími and FEBRUARY 17 Café Rósenberg: Blues night: Andrea Jóns, Eddi the summer of 2004. I have pretty Brain Police. Leave the blotter acid Geir and guitarhero Gummi P band UHU takes the stage. Admission 500ISK high standards when it comes to Prikið: DJ Jón Mýrdal FRIDAY Café Rósenberg: Þórunn Pálína Jónsdóttir at home and see them all at Gaukur makes her debut as a Jazz vocalist tonight with a jazz, and have been known to throw Sirkus: DJ’s Árni & Reynir FEBRUARY 18 á Stöng. DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- band of skilled musicians. Thorvaldsen: Amsterdam: Band Buff plays covers bottles if I need to. Well, trust me gamix Grand Rokk: Shadow Parade and Kalli from band Nasa: Band D.C.S. From India with Icelandic Tenderfoot – there was no bottle-throwing Grand Rokk: Tonight: Megasukk, Iceland’s Kaffibarinn: DJ’s Ellen & Erna bands Bermuda and Súkkat. No admission fee Heineken Greenroom session: DJ’s Tommi Troubadours Sjonni & Gunni Óla done at UHU. We were all too busy favorite wordsmith Megas with friends in band Sólon: Bar 11: Band Days of our Lives plays, + DJ Bjössi Hverfisbar: Súkkat White & Andrés upstairs and troubadours down- enjoying them. Opening for them stairs Gaukur á Stöng: Bands: Lirmill, Hoffman, En- Ari í Ögri: Troubadour duet Acoustics sími, Brain Police and Bacon Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Helgi Valur Café Victor: Kronenbourg Night: DJ’s / Live FRIDAY will be Gerald Gadwa, a musician music Hverfisbar: DJ Bigfoot Hressó: Troubadour Þór Óskar & DJ Heiðar Sirkus: DJ Gísli Galdur FEBRUARY 25 that the Marketting Director himself Austmann Nasa: Reykjavík winter festival, see festival Gaukur á Stöng: Bands: Fræbbblarnir, guide pullout in this issue of Grapevine Café Victor: DJ Gunni: Dance & R&B music Dáðadrengir and Bacon invited to come to Iceland. If that DJ Heavy Metal De Boomkikker: Grand Rokk: Bands: Plat, Skum, Prins Valium, ain’t an endorsement, I don’t know Café Cultura: DJ Katrín Skurken and Pornopop what is. February 24 at Ömmukaffi, Kaffibarinn: DJ Thor (rækjusalat & harðfiskur) Prikið: Country theme: DJ Jói and Drummer (yes Pravda Club: DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop again; DJ&Drums) admission 500kr. Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- Kaffibarinn: DJ Benni gamix Hverfisbar: DJ Brynjar Már Coverband Í svörtum Fötum Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 De Boomkikker: DJ Heavy Metal Gaukur á Stöng: Coverband Smack Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & Sirkus: DJ KGB Amsterdam: dance music DJ Kári Amsterdam: Dj Master Kaffibarinn: Pimp’s & Ho’s night: DJ’s Gullfoss & DJ Mr. Metro: Dance & RnB music Prikið: Bar 11: DJ Matti X Café Victor: Geysir DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop Café Victor: DJ Mr. Metro: Dance & RnB music Pravda Club: Nasa: Reykjavík winter festival, see festival DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- Pravda Club: DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop Thorvaldsen: guide pullout in this issue of Grapevine gamix DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- Grand Rokk: Rock in Reykjavík revival; Bands: Thorvaldsen: gamix Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & Vonbrigði, Fræbbblarnir & Taugadeildin dance music Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Sváfnir Sig. Nasa: Icelandic band Papar play trad. Irish mu- DJ’s Silja & Steinunn Hressó: Troubadours Böddi & Danni, then DJ Café Cultura: sic. Lots of dancing going on. Admission 1500ISK DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & Heiðar Austmann Sólon: Café Rósenberg: Troubadour Helgi Valur dance music Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Halli & Kalli Hressó: Troubadours Ari & Gunni, then DJ Heiðar Troubadour duet Acoustics Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour Ari í Ögri: Austmann Troubadours Ari & Gunni, then DJ Valdi Downstairs: Live coverband Hressó: Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Halli & Kalli Celtic Cross: Upstairs: Troubadour SATURDAY Downstairs: Live coverband WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 19 SATURDAY MARCH 9 Amsterdam: Band Buff plays covers FEBRUARY 26 Café Cultura: Tango Night Nasa: Band Spaðar plays trad. Icelandic music The Beatles of hardcore, Converge rock Nasa: Band: No Jazz plays TÞM: Grand Rokk, February 18th tonight. Admission 1000ISK Iceland. They were here last year, end played a Sirkus: DJ Árni Sveins Grand Rokk: Bands: Sólstafir, Drep and Mo- full house at Iðnó theatre. mentum ROKK Í REYKJAVÍK REVIVAL Kaffibarinn: DJ Balli Basic Coverband Á móti Sól Hverfisbar: DJ Bigfoot Gaukur á Stöng: Do you remember the days when punk stood for individuality, class struggle DJ Brynjar Már Café Victor: DJ Gunni: Dance & R&B music Hverfisbar: THURSDAY DJ Heavy Metal and the DIY ethic, before it became swallowed up by corporate music and De Boomkikker: DJ Heavy Metal De Boomkikker: MARCH 10 Café Cultura: DJ Kristín marketted as another cheap fashion product? I barely do, but if you’re curious Bar 11: DJ Pink & Floyd Sólon: Greenroom session: DJ’s Tommi White & DJ Maggi Legó Pravda Club: DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop Sirkus: Andrés upstairs and troubadours downstairs to know (or be reminded) what it was like, then you’re best bet is to check out DJ Mr. Metro: Dance & RnB music Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- Café Victor: Café Victor: Kronenbourg Night: DJ’s / Live a few of the bands who were a part of punk’s original movement. Icelandic gamix Bar 11: DJ Palli Maus music Nelly´s: DJ’s Gummi Gonzalez & Nonni 900 Kaffibarinn: DJ Thor (go back to germany you Café Rósenberg: Punk rocker Mike Pollock punk legends Vonbrigði, Fræbbblarnir and Taugadeildin will destroy all **** backpacker) plays guitar and sings Café Cultura: DJ’s Silja & Steinunn DJ’s Áki Pain & Atli partycop The invasion from South Iceland: Good Charlotte fans (only in the musical sense, unfortunately) February 18 at Sólon: DJ’s Svali & Þröstur 3000 with R&B & Pravda Club: Grand Rokk: Grand Rokk. dance music Thorvaldsen: DJ’s Daddi Disco & Hlynur Me- Band Nilfisk to name a few. gamix 26 FOOD RUNNING A CAFÉ Elwis Has Left THE NON-CAPITALIST WAY the Building Our first encounter with Café Victor was a traumatic experience. We entered the place late one Monday evening in December 2002, after having attended the first of Nick Cave’s two excellent concerts in Reykjavík. We decided against having a beer when we saw a large sign over the bar advertising their “Christmas special”: gingersnap cookies and the traditional Icelandic “blanda”, which consists of Egils orangeade and the classic Icelandic drink “Malt”, a sweet malt extract, also from Egils. When we tasted our beverages, we instantly knew that something was not right. A chat with the bartender revealed that our “blanda” did not, in fact, contain any Malt at all, but something called “Black Elwis”: a German drink that is, as the bottle label claimed, the first bottled beverage to combine alcohol-free beer and cola and tastes even worse than it sounds. “Does the German propensity for evil know no bounds?” we thought, as we staggered out, dazed and confused. Gúndi H.S

“We were tired of being neutral, tired of pointing out the failures in the society. We wanted to get inside and do things our way,” says Ásgeir, one of the owners of Hljómalind. The name of the café comes from the legendary record shop that used to be in the same house. It’s co-operated by seven people, who all own equal shares. They work by the guidelines of fair trade, which means that everyone gets paid a reasonable amount of money that will enable them to support their families and live a decent life. Any surplus income goes to charity. “Why Not Sell Coffee?” Ásgeir and Helena tell me. They to “show people that there are other Helena, another of the owners, had Dada Maheshvarananda, a ways, other than the capitalist way, informs me that the original idea was professor of freedom studies, over to run a place like this.” Hljómalind to open up a culture/art-centre where from America to talk about free trade café is unique in our city. It’s all kinds of art could blossom. “But a and explain the philosophy behind organic, it’s non-smoking and it has centre like that needs a cash flow to the concept. Ásgeir says that one of a manifesto. keep it going so we thought, “Why the purposes for opening a café is by Ilmur Dögg Gísladóttir not sell coffee?” The place is covered in artwork. On one wall is a piece made by a was casual and friendly, although graphic designer, all the tables have Desperate Middle-Aged People we sensed that our muscular and some kind of doodles on them, and Large Tuxedo-Clad Birds shaven-headed waiter wouldn’t and the windows are painted by So it was with some trepidation hesitate to snap us like twigs if we an artist. Every Wednesday night that Grapevine’s correspondents stepped out of line. Therefore we conservationist group Náttúruvaktin entered Café Victor, situated close didn’t dare to make a fuss when is going to have an open discussion to Ingólfstorg square in downtown we had to wait for a considerable about their agenda. Thursday nights Reykjavík, one stormy night in amount of time before ordering the are movie nights where arty and January 2005. But we were soon main courses. documentary films will be shown and put at ease by the relaxed and Saturday nights are concert nights. unpretentious surroundings and by the fact that Black Elwis was Black Elwis Comeback Special? A Coffee Shop with a Manifesto nowhere to be seen. Café Victor is The fish of the day was well worth the wait: monkfish (a particular “Last week we had a panel discussion a casual and modest place, known favourite of ours), pan-fried, served every day during lunch break and at for its hamburgers and sandwiches, Gúndi on risotto, with snap beans, feta the end of the week it was crowded,” which turns into a hunting ground for desperate middle-aged people by cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. The night. We sat down by an impressive fish was juicy and not overcooked painting of a large, tuxedo-clad bird and the risotto had a very pleasant whose accusing stare dissuaded us white wine flavour. Feta cheese is from ordering any of the chicken an overused accompaniment, but dishes on the menu. did little to distract from the overall effect. The spaghetti carbonara with Muscular, Shaven-Headed bacon, garlic and parmesan cheese Waiters was tasty, if a little dry, and the First up was Café Victor’s creamy grilled lamb with potato wedges, seafood soup: an incredibly tasty fried vegetables and wild mushroom and rich tomato-based soup with sauce was excellent. The meat was an assortment of delicious fresh tender and juicy and the sauce was seafood that outclasses many of the so good that we only wished that seafood soups we have tasted in there was more of it. All in all, a very much more expensive restaurants. enjoyable gastronomic experience, A very pleasant surprise and highly made all the more pleasant by the recommended. The deep-fried fact that it was so unexpected. Let’s mozzarella sticks, served with basil just hope that Black Elwis won’t aioli, were pleasant but probably make any comeback specials in the work best as a beer snack rather than near future. a part of a full meal. The service by Ölvir Gíslason and Kjartan Guðmundsson

28 H.S Ray Opens Friday 18th February AMERICAN DIPLOMACY AND Heroin Addict, THE DECLINE OF DEMOCRACY Womanizer, he entire Icelandic government gets killed off in some who most recently played legendary T bishop Jón Arason in the National inexplicable terrorist act. The only man left standing is the Theatre’s Öxin og jörðin, and his Musical Genius agricultural minister, who assumes the reins of power. The US mother is Þórhildur Þorleifsdóttir, Before the Beatles, there was Ray Charles. Staring Jamie Foxx, straight Army is about to leave the country. But as a war is impending who recently directed the City off his excellent performance in Collateral, as the man himself, with Kerry somewhere far away, the new Prime Minister tries to negotiate Theater’s Hýbýli vindanna. But he Washington as his wife, and Aunjanue Ellis and Regina King as his back-up support for the war in exchange for keeping the Army here. grew up around politics as well as singers/mistresses. Ray spans the start of Ray Charles’ career in the fifties the arts. until the mid-seventies, with plenty of reflection on his childhood, how he A nightmare scenario? Well, yes, get them in the right mood, left no “My father was arrested once in went blind, his childhood poverty, and rise to fame. and also the subject of a new play, one who saw in unmoved. And he 1962 for writing socialist slogans on American Diplomacy, written also directed the play Pentagon, a a NATO ship. He was locked up At just over two and half hours Ray is a reel too long and you notice. The and directed by aspiring young collection of 5 mini plays, four of during the day, but the jailer let him film feels episodic, as it flashes back and forth from Ray’s childhood to playwright Þorleifur Arnarsson. Give which were by aspiring young writers go during the evening as he had to adulthood. At times I was able to pre-empt its continual use of fade-to-white or take the terrorist act, the situation such as Eiríkur Norðdal and Haukur attend a theatre rehearsal that night.” or fade-to-black approach, giving it look and feel of a made-for-TV movie. is actually more plausible than you Már Helgason, and the fifth was by Ray had me bopping in my seat with the original music recordings and might think. When Grapevine Australian Vanessa Badham. Bloggers in jail performances. Jamie Foxx does a brilliant job lip-synching and creating the tried to find out last summer who “Most of the segments were very But Þorleifur is set to make it in the character that is Ray Charles: heroin addict, womanizer and musical genius. was responsible for governing the political. Haukur Már’s piece was theatre in his own right. And his The script by Taylor Hackford and James L. White tries to reflect the good country when the Foreign Minister about a couple of philosophers who opinions are all his own too. and the bad of Ray Charles’ life, but is sugarcoated and refuses to delve was away and the Prime Minister kidnap a Prime Minister and torture “What we are witnessing now is the deeper into his psyche. The tribute and tacked-on ending feels rushed and was in hospital, it turned out it was him while discussing Socrates’ decline of democracy, as the major left me somewhat disappointed. none other than agricultural minister theories on violence.” corporations assume more control of Guðni Ágústson, number three in the individual. As we speak, the first by Cara Harvey line as head of government. Missing Australians blogger is being sued by Apple corp Vanessa Badham also figures in the in the United States, even though Hedging your bets Torturing Prime Ministers current play, although more by her the constitution there is supposed to “It’s a political tragicomedy,” says absence. be protecting his right to free speech. Þorleifur. “We are lucky enough “I flew to Australia to meet her. It’s this decline of democracy that on Bonaparte to have in the leading role the She was going to write a play that I’m afraid we’re seeing the beginning actor Hjálmar Hjálmarsson, who I was to direct called American of here.” used to do spoof news on radio for Diplomacy. Then one mishap And yet Þorleifur still sees cause for seven years, so he has the necessary followed another and she was unable optimism: “Despite everything, we experience. Every morning we go to do it. I was left with a grant from did see some progress in the 20th over the latest news and see what we the Ministry of Culture and a play, Century. Oppression of women can work into the play.” so there was nothing for it but to or minority groups is no longer This may very well be the most write the damn thing myself.” tolerated to the extent that it was political play to make its way onto an The art of directing theatre is 50 years ago. So some things can Icelandic stage in quite some time, not, contrary to popular belief, an actually change for the better.” but Þorleifur has directed political inherited craft but an acquired one. stuff before. His dramatisation of But even if it were, Þorleifur would American Diplomacy is premiered at Orwell’s 1984, where he locked up have the right pedigree. His father Borgarleikhúsið on February 24th. the actors in a cell for the night to is renowned actor Arnar Jónsson, by Valur Gunnarsson Gúndi Come and try Rome, June 1800. Napoleon has just TOSCA our real Italian invaded Italy. During the action the premiers on Fri. 11. Feb. 20.00 Austrian General Melas is reported pasta and pizza’s to have defeated Napoleon and the consequent celebrations are likely Other performances: to be attended by Queen Marie Sun. 13. Feb. 19.00 Caroline, wife of the Neapolitan king, Fri. 18. Feb. 20.00 daughter to the Empress of Austria Sun. 20. Feb. 19.00 Italian Garden Restaurant and sister to Marie Antoinette, the Fri. 25. Feb. 20.00 beheaded queen of France. This is the Sun. 27. Feb. 19.00 backdrop to Puccini’s Tosca. Baron Fri. 4. Mar. 20.00 Scarpia, the much-feared Chief of Sun. 6. Mar. 19.00 Police, is based on a real-life Sicilian Sat. 12. Mar. 19.00 figure, and Cavaradossi and Angelotti are supporters of the liberal group hoping for Napoleon’s victory. Tosca is among Puccini’s most popular operas. The music is complex and catching. There is poetic beauty in the lover’s duets between Tosca the singer and Cavaradossi the painter. That beauty is contrasted by the roughness of the police officer Scarpia, who tries to deceive Tosca in order to win her love. The leading role of Tosca is performed by Elín Ósk Óskarsdóttir and chorus of 36 people participates in the performance.

PRENTSNIÐ Klapparstíg 38 | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 551 7760 by Birgitta Jónsdóttir ��������������������������������������������� ��������������������������������������������� ���������������������������������������������������� �������������������� ������������������������� �������������� ���������������������� �������������� ������������������������������������������� ����������� ��������������������������������������������������� ������������������������������������������������ ���������������������������������������� ��������� ��������� �����������������

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The Westman Islands are Iceland’s frontier to the south. The island of Heimaey is the largest populated island off the coast of Iceland, and has a thriving community of almost 5000 people. This manages to support two local papers and even a TV station. It takes half an hour by plane to get there from Reykjavík, or almost three hours with the ferry Herjólfur from Þorlákshöfn on the southern coast. A tunnel is planned to finally end their relative isolation, although a group of enterprising university students suggested a zeppelin might be more economical.

The Westman Islands often seem far away from mainland Iceland, and while Iceland was for most of its history peaceful if poor, the Westmans have another story to tell. remained in port the night before in Herjólfsdalur valley was later built rockers from all over Iceland and the due to bad weather, and all but one Death and Religion in their honour. Faroe Islands compete. This year, it English and Turk Invaders of the inhabitants, who decided Perhaps it is history that leads to More recently, in the 1990s the was won by a group called Armæða, The islands first appear in written to break into the pharmacy rather the close relationship the islanders Christian group Betel gained although two girl bands, one from history when the first settler of than flee, managed to escape to the seem to have with death, or perhaps notoriety throughout Iceland for Kópavogur, and the other a local Iceland, Ingólfur Arnarson, chased mainland. When the lava cooled it it’s just the fact that death is an its burning of rock CDs, but not group called “Sigyn” (named after runaway slaves there. The rebellious had increased the island in size by inherent part of any seafaring everyone was convinced of the Norse demon Loki’s wife), also put slaves had killed his blood-brother more than 2 square kilometres, and community. The Westman islanders group’s merits, and their leader in a strong showing. Hjörleifur, and Ingólfur slaughtered the town was quickly rebuilt. The still account for about 15% of emigrated north. The day after a good night out on them to a man. As the slaves came remains of the ruined houses are the fishing of most of the major the island, you can go for some hair from Ireland in the west, they were borne witness by the odd chimney species found in the waters around And Finally, A Good Party of the dog and a pizza at local chain called Westmen, and the islands still sticking out of the lava hills here Iceland. On the day that I was there But the islanders also know how to Pizza 67, Thai at Prófasturinn or bear their name. and there. In some places the lava is this January, an exhibition about party. In 1874, they were unable, Balkan at Lanterna. Or you can The islands are also the only part still warm enough to bake bread on, funerals, presented by the town due to bad weather, to attend the punish yourself some more with a of Iceland to have endured violent and this is occasionally done for the priest, was opening in the Landlyst celebration held at Þingvellir when “djúpsteiktur Akureyringur”, a deep foreign invasion. In the 15th century, benefit of visitors. museum. Afterwards, the attendants Iceland received its first constitution. fried hot dog and fries with cheese the English came to Iceland to An earlier ocean bed eruption in retreated to the church to watch Instead, they held their own shindig, on top, all served in a bun. As you trade and occasionally to raid. They 1963 created the island of Surtsey, a documentary on photographing which has been reprised every year wander about town, you’ll see all kidnapped one governor of Iceland the world’s youngest island, just off corpses. The church in question is since and has become the country’s the friendly faces you saw the night and killed another, and bought local the coast of Heimaey. Few human a replica of a Norwegian wooden biggest outdoor festival, attracting before, most of them seemingly in children, which gave rise to the beings are allowed there as geologists church, presented by the people of thousands of people from all over the same state as yourself. And you’ll contemporary legend that Icelanders are studying its development for Norway in 2000, celebrating the Iceland and the country’s biggest feel a part of these fair islands. gave away their children but sold clues to the origin of life on earth. Its 1000th anniversary of Christianity in live acts the first weekend of every their dogs dearly. Their headquarters first permanent settlers were spiders Iceland. August. were on Heimaey, where they built who apparently glided to the island Religion has long been a big part of At the opposite end of the year, the fortress Skansinn which still on their cobweb parachutes. island life. Mormonism caught on in January, a smaller festival called remains. But after a war with the here in the late 19th century, and “Allra veðra von” (“Expect Any Kind Danes and the Hanseatic League in Puffins and Celebrity Killer Whales around 200 Mormons eventually of Weather”), is held indoors. It is a by Valur Gunnarsson 1468-73, the English withdrew. The most famous animals to inhabit immigrated to Utah. A monument battle of the bands in which aspiring A more violent invasion was the Westman Islands, however, are the “The Turkish Raid” in 1627. the puffins, which migrate to the Actually, this was launched by islands every spring to breed. They Algerians, Moroccan-converted are considered a delicacy and are Europeans and commanded by hunted by brave cliff-hangers, whose a Dutchman. But as the captives tiny summer cabins are visible on were taken to Algeria, then a the cliffs. But the puffins are dear suzerainty of the Ottoman Sultan to the heart as well as the belly of in Constantinople, the raid was islanders. Pufflings who get lost blamed on the Turks. It was not as they try to migrate south in the until the 1970s that a contemporary autumn are helped in finding their law stating that any Turk found in way, and the Aquarium also doubles Iceland should be killed on sight as a puffin hospital in the summer. was withdrawn. Thankfully, this was The aquarium itself is small but well never enforced. worth a visit. The Turks killed and captured But all other attractions were briefly some 400 people, most of these overshadowed by the appearance from Heimaey, and burned down of Keiko the killer whale, star of the church and the warehouse. Ten the Free Willy movies. Originally years later, 27 of the captives were born in these waters before he went ransomed back to Iceland. The place off to Hollywood and stardom, where the Turks came ashore is still he was escorted back home in a called “Ræningjatangi”, or robber’s USAF Hercules upon retiring peninsula. from the movie industry. After scientists had spent considerable Volcanoes and Flying Spiders time trying to teach him to hunt The next tragedy to befall the fish, he was released into the wild island was in 1973, when a sudden and immediately headed for Norway, earthquake devastated the town. where he died, as so many stars do, Fortunately, the fishing fleet had at the age of 27. OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK 31

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More Money than You’ll Ever See Again

I am standing outside the Art Museum of Akureyri along with the curator. The northern wind is blowing gently but, being the northern wind and this being just below the Artic Circle, even a gentle breeze makes its presence felt. The curator rings the doorbell, but no one seems to answer. The museum security, due to arrive at 12, is not here yet, so we withdraw to the warm locales of Cafe Karólína and wait for their arrival.

The reason for the curator being he’s ever run. In fact, most banks addicted,” Sigurður explains, “it was stripped of her powers to open don’t have as much money in their all regulated by doctors.” museum doors is not due to a vaults as there is here. As he points demotion on her part, but rather to out, with all the plastic going round Who is to judge? the fact that inside are considerable these days, it’s rare for huge sums There is one more room, hidden valuables. The valuables are neither of cash money to be kept in any behind curtains, and easily missed portraits of halfsmiling Italian one place at any one time. Some of by guests not enjoying the expert chicks, screaming Norwegians or it was lent by the Central Bank of guidance of Sigurður. Inside is a row marble statues of Michael Jackson Iceland, but not all of it. As yet, they of hospital beds. “No matter how and Bubbles, but 100 hundred haven’t disclosed where the rest of much money we have, some things million krónur in cold, hard cash. the dough came from. Some of it is are unavoidable for everyone, such freshly printed, but quite a few of the as death,” Sigurður says. In a small Warriors of the Wallet batches are in unmarked bills. This, room leading in from the beds is The cash is part of an exhibition surely, makes the temptation all the another, with a wheelchair and a called Warriors of the Heart by greater. television showing a program about Iranian-born American artist Ashkan how to paint. Money withers, life Sahih, and bears the subtitle “100 Money is more tempting than art withers, perhaps art is the only thing Million in Ready Cash and Tibetan “It is more tempting to steal piles that’s truly eternal. Chanting.” If nothing else, it lives up of money than works of art which All the works in the exhibition to its name. The cash is kept in glass it would be hard to resell,” says are for sale. The price for a batch display cases in various amounts, in Sigurður, “but Akureyri is one of the of money is the displayed amount total adding up to the titular round few places where you could have an plus 25%. The case is included. figure. The chanting is a playback exhibition like this. Everyone knows But is money on display a work of tape, and there is also plate with everyone, and it’s hard to disappear art? Is it a satirical comment on our incense on the floor. into the crowd. Down south, they obsessions, a postmodern take on the But that is not all there is to it. As have more people, and more drug real values in the art world or simply the curator goes off to curate, I am problems.” Down south is what a shortcut to selling out? “Whether left alone in one of the two rooms Akureyrians tend to call Reykvikians. this is art or not is not for us to constituting the exhibition. But not Drugs are in fact another part decide,” says Sigurður. We leave for long. Sigurður, one of the two of the exhibition. On the wall, that, dear reader, to you. security guards, comes in unarmed, pictures of persons in various states but with a disarming smile, and of intoxication stare with varying offers me a guided tour. Who am I degrees of lucidity at the loot. These to refuse? are not your usual collection of He tells me that he has guarded creatures of the night, but normal both banks and museums before, but people (whatever that means) on this is one of the tightest operations their first high. “None of them got by Valur Gunnarsson on tour BARCELONA Spain

by John Boyce

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Easy Jet Tucked between the Spanish central plain and the south of France, STANSTED-BARCELONA: 2.457 ISK with Andorra for a pillow, Catalonia is the wealthiest and most powerful BARCELONA-STANSTED: 2.457 ISK autonomous region in the Iberian Peninsula. Book a month in advance for lowest prices. But it wasn’t always thus for the province and it dominant capital, Barcelona. After declaring itself independent of the Frankish empire in the BARCELONA: Grapevine consumer service note: 11th century, Catalonian monarchs arranged a political marriage with the Do not drink and cycle! neighbouring kings of Aragón, and Barcelona became the metropolis for an Don´t cross the street at a red light empire that stretched across the Mediterranean, kicking off what became , there may be no known as the Catalan golden age. And that’s when it all started to go Great Scenery, cars but the fine is huge. terribly wrong.

War and Black Death Tragic History A serious bout of Black Death decimated the city in the 1300s and the region had barely recovered when the Kings of Aragón had the temerity to A Sophisticated European sympathetic hearing from the working class barrio separated from switch political horses, cozying up to their other regional neighbour Castilla, Metropolis current socialist government. For more famous neighbourhoods, such leaving Catalonia firmly out in the cold. A part of modern Barcelona’s the opposition, Aznar’s centralist as Barri Gothic, by La Rambla. Colonial cutthroat Christopher Columbus, blundering into the Americas, allure is its multiple identities, the Partido Popular, this amounts to In recent years the area delivered the next near fatal blow, drawing trade from the Mediterranean to second city of Spain, the capital of nothing less than creeping secession has become a glorious ethnic the Pacific, almost bankrupting Barcelona in the process. Just when they Catalonia, the economic powerhouse and has fuelled their fears that in the hodgepodge with the Arab thought things couldn’t get any worse, France pilfered another chunk of of the peninsula and a sophisticated fullness of time Barcelona will add population increasingly dominant. Catalonia in the continent wide 30 Years War (1618-48, although the war multicultural European metropolis. yet another personality to it already Wander in on a Sunday afternoon between France and Spain didn’t end until 1657). Barcelona then proceeded Through the vicissitudes of history multiple identity, the capital of an to check out the unlicensed market to back the wrong nag in the Spanish War of Succession (1700-1714). The and the repeated suppression of independent European state. and the good-natured game of tag eventual victor, the Bourbon king Felipe, duly took his revenge, abolishing Catalan, Barcelona has acquired a between the marketing miscreants regional autonomy and banning the writing and teaching of Catalan. random bilingualism that largely Rambling Raval and any one of Barcelona’s three remains thirty years after Franco’s If you should go astray one day on la different police forces. Or enjoy the Anarchist and Fascist death, the undoubted resurgence Rambla, Barcelona’s principal tourist bizarre spectacle of 37 traditionally The province and its capital finally caught a break in the 19th century when in Catalan tempered by huge thoroughfare, and land at the feet dressed Arabs playing improvised a ban was lifted on its trade with the Americas and Greater Barcelona immigration from South America of a midget sitting on a shiny steel volleyball amid the sirens and the launched one of the earliest industrial revolutions in Europe. Barcelona grew and other parts of Spain. bucket who offers you, for a price, catcalls. rapidly, was forced to demolish its medieval walls in the 1850s and had Home to over seven million naturally, your hallucinogenic heart’s But hurry while it’s still there! A doubled in size by the1920s. people, with a huge industrial base desire, then you have probably combination of a central location, This decade saw a resurgence of a phenomenon almost unique to Barcelona and a massive Barcelona-based wandered into Raval. cheap property prices and abandoned in the 20th century, , in the form of the radical trade union the tourist trade, Catalonia subsidizes Diplomatically described by lots have those pesky developers C.N.T. After a wave of successful strikes, employers hired assassins to the rest of the country with one guidebook as “a little rough sniffing round and it may not eliminate hundreds of union leaders. millions of euro each year. Though around the edges”, Raval is home be long before radical chic Raval Civil war and the Franco dictatorship returned Barcelona to smothering Catalonian nationalism has no to the bohemian set, all manner of becomes as overpriced and over- isolation, with Catalan and even the notion of Catalonia ruthlessly militant equivalent of the Basque victimless crime and is possibly the hyped as its more fashionable guide repressed. Country’s E.T.A., Catalans are, most police-patrolled part of the city book neighbours. The death of Franco in1975 and the reestablishment of regional understandably, pressing for ever centre. government in the seventies finally reintroduced Barcelona to the world and more autonomy from Madrid, a In times past the Chinatown it quickly set about establishing itself as the cultural and tourist capital of demand that has received a generally of Barcelona, Raval is a sprawling by John Boyce Mediterranean Europe. 33

BARCELONA Picks Compiled by John Boyce

DIETRICH: C/ DEL CONCELL DE CENT, METRO Universitat If high class drag’s your bag, Dietrich revives the lost art of café theatre seven days a week in glam surroundings. Admission free.

ENCANTES MARKET: METRO Glories Desperate for an exhaust pipe for your second-hand Ford Capri or some black and white Slovakian pornography, then look no further than Barcelona’s oldest open-air flea market, open Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday till two. Bring a wheelbarrow.

EUSKAL ETXEA. PLACETA MONCADA, METRO Jaume The unpronounceable name tells you Basque cuisine is on the menu, in an eerie cavern-like atmosphere. Specializes in fish and calves, a stones throw from the Picasso museum.

BARCELONA PIPA CLUB, PLACA REIAL, METRO Liceu Perhaps the only authentic smoking club in the city. During the day you can get your fill of politically incorrect pipe smoke. Late in the evening it transforms itself into one of the city’s most laid back all-night boozing joints.

LA PALOMA, C/ DE TIGRE, METRO Universitat An institution in Barcelona for over a hundred years, La Paloma kicks off with the cha-cha-cha and the can-can before moving on the tango around midnight, and if you are up for it there is the frenetic bongo lounge till . Admission 5 euro. 34 INTERVIEW THE BIG PICTURE: A Controversial Documentary Festival Gúndi WATSON THE VICTOR Does terrorism pay off in Iceland? being held for questioning. Captain Paul Watson, self-proclaimed “Ocean Warrior” and founder of Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, used to be Iceland’s Mr. Ocean Warrior Public Enemy #1. His agents attacked Iceland’s fishing industry What’s more, once Mr. Ocean Did Lee Harvey Oswald kill Kennedy? Did we really go to the moon? Is Warrior (starving for media in an unprecedented terrorist attack in October 1986, when they there a cover-up regarding UFOs? Did the US government carry out the 9-11 attention) had verified that Iceland terrorist attacks? Are western governments involved in the global drug trade sabotaged a whaling station and sank two ships; half our whaling did not intend to prosecute him, he and money laundering? Did George W. Bush become president through fleet. The damages were conservatively estimated at $8 million at offered to call on the ones who did massive election fraud? Are we constantly being lied to by our governments the time. The Prime Minister vowed in public that “all efforts will in fact do the dirty work and have and mass media? What is the nature of reality? How important is the truth? them come over to face trial. Motion Do we avoid it because it may disturb us? Is it perhaps more important to be made to get the people who are responsible prosecuted for this denied. The prosecutor’s attitude inhuman act”, but the government of Iceland – always “willing” to conserve the established world view? Are certain illusions necessary to justify being something like, “No, Mr our way of life? What if the information flow is really under elite control? combat terrorism in distant continents – has yet to press charges. Watson, you don’t tell us what to do; Perhaps the public has been allowing the establishment to manifest their just get the hell out of the country When Paul ventured to Iceland distortions as historical truths that few would challenge without facing public perpetrator; the active agent involved and don’t come back for at least five in 1988, offering himself up for outrage and ridicule. in the attack? “No,” he responded, years, please.” Justice served. trial, the State was suddenly keen From February 19th to 27th a documentary festival will be held at Snarrót, “but I am responsible for all activities to dismiss the matter and simply the radical centre at Garðastræti 2. About 30 hard hitting documentaries undertaken in the name of Sea The government of Iceland didn’t deported the defiant Ahab as quickly will challenge the world view of all those who dare to attend. The aim of the Shepherd Conservation Society. dare prosecute, for it would have as possible. Yet he admitted to festival is to give people an opportunity to access controversial information I give the orders.” The prosecutor brought international media and took full responsibility for the that receives little or no attention by the mainstream media. The program can then asked him, “Did you give the attention to whaling, an unpopular sabotage in front of a prosecutor. be found at www.gagnauga.is. orders to sink the ships?” and the industry at the time. This would Watson left Iceland laughing his suspect confessed, “I did.” As if all have hurt the nation’s fish exports. by Þórarinn Einarsson “The State’s major action against the leader of an organization that had declared itself at war with Iceland seems to have been trying to serve him whale meat.” silly marine-pants off. What’s worse: this wasn’t enough, Watson claims Soon after Watson’s visit, Iceland the bastard wrote a book in which to have threatened the prosecutor admitted defeat and abandoned Icelanders are perhaps accurately that “we intend to sink the two whale hunting. But when it came to portrayed as slow-witted, timid and other ships at the first opportunity.” invading Afghanistan and destroying gullible. Yet nothing was done; the State’s Iraq, the government was steadfast, major action against the leader of loyal and true. That does not appear Slaughter on the High Seas? an organization that had declared to be the case on home ground. His book: Ocean Warrior: My itself at war with Iceland seems to [email protected] Battle to End the Illegal Slaughter have been trying to serve him whale on the High Seas, describes how meat in the cafeteria of a “most by Klemens Ólafur Watson was interrogated in Iceland. comfortable jail”, in which he was He was asked if he himself was the MOVIES : LISTINGS : february 11 - march 10

Hagatorg Álfabakka 8 Hverfisgata 54 Phone: 530-1919 Phone: 587-8900 Phone: 551-9000 Laugarás www.haskolabio.is Smáralind www.sambio.is Phone: 553-2075 PREMIERS: www.regnboginn.is Phone: 564-0000 PREMIERS: www.laugarasbio.is 18 feb. Ray PREMIERS: www.smarabio.is 11. feb White Noise 11. feb. Flight of the Phoenix / PREMIERS: 25. feb Les choristes/Kórinn PREMIERS: Phantom of the Opera 25. feb Constantine Being Julia 25. feb. Son of the Mask 4. mar 11. feb. Flight of the Phoenix / 4. mar Phantom of the Opera 18. feb. Closer 18. feb. Ray Being Julia 25. feb. Son of the Mask 3. mar Hithc Still running: 18. feb. Closer 4. mar Hitch Meet the Fockers, Million Dollar Still running: 25. feb. Son of the Mask Baby, The Aviator, Alexander Meet the Fockers, Alexander Still running: 4. mar Hitch Un long dimanche de fiançailles (A Team America: World Polic... Still running: Meet The Fockers, The Aviator Still running: very long engagement) National Treasure Finding Neverland, Sideways Sjóræningjar á Saltkráku (dubbed) Finding Neverland, Sideways Ocean’s Twelve, Tais toi/Ruby & Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Un- Assault on Precinct 13 , Sea Inside Búi og Símon (dubbed) Assault on Precinct 13 , Sea Inside Quentin (Grjóthaltu kjafti) fortunate Events, The Incredibles

grapevine.is REYKJAVÍK´S YOUR ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER FREE ISSUE TWO: FEBRUARY 11 - MARCH 10, 2005 COPY COMPLETE WINTER LIGHTS FESTIVAL LISTINGS INSIDE

Stuffed with stuff

“It is important that students pay a reasonable part of their own education because it encourages them to appreciate their studies more.”

Drífa Hjartardóttir, MP. , PAGE 6

“I do not think he (The Prime Minister) is having a very good time right now.”

Róbert Marshall, former Channel 2 reporter, PAGE 14

“If we think of a subject as a hill or a mountain, this subject is going downhill,”

Ásta Möller, vice MP for Davíð Oddsson, PAGE 15

“Some things can actually change for the better.” Planned day tours:

Þorleifur Arnarsson, theatre director, Landmanna- The Golden Volcano Iceland Glacier PAGE 28 laugar Hekla Circle in a Nutshell Mýrdalsjökull Volcano Hekla Explosion crater A real 4x4 safari Glacier • Geological wonders Extraordinary landscape Hot natural bath Colors and craters • Geologival adventure Snowmobile ride Glaciers • Hot springs • Lava caves Unique combination of fire and ice