Holidays 9

AMORE FOR LESS ROMANTIC All gold... the sun sets ..ON A BUDGET over the River and St Peter’s Basilica In for a penny... throw a coin in the GETTY Picture: By FRANCESCA COOKNEY creep across its surface... “Right, “SO let me get this straight. We’ve that’s that done. Now what?” asks been to three of Rome’s ‘must-see’ Rob. So much for romance! tourist spots and we haven’t spent The next day we visit the Vatican. a single euro?” Entry to St Peter’s Basilica is free My boyfriend Rob is looking and if you go down on a Wednesday impressed. I’ve whisked him away morning, as we did, you’ll catch for a romantic break in the Eternal Pope Benedict XVI giving his City with just one catch... we’re on weekly address to the crowds of a serious austerity budget. pilgrims in the square. But so far we’ve seen the Trevi We skip the (and Fountain, the Pantheon and Largo its €15 (£12.50) entry fee) in favour di Torre Argentina – the spot where of a walk in the park. The vast Julius Caesar was killed – all landscaped gardens of the Villa without opening our wallets. It’s Borghese make it perfect for a shady safe to say I feel fairly smug. stroll and a break from the crowds. has never been known for By now it’s nearly time for one of being cheap. But luckily, as a former my favourite Italian customs – resident of the capital city I reckon aperitivo. Between 5pm and I know how to show us both a good 7pm, bars offer free nibbles time without needing our own when you buy a drink. financial bail-out. And given my Wish you were via... What’s The laid-back Freni e Frizioni expert tour-guiding, I think it’s time shop or (right) show in Trastevere, where “nibbles” for Rob to buy me a gelato. your love with a lock the deal? means a huge buffet of crisps, dips, and Campo de’ pasta salad and couscous, is a fine example. Fiori, in the historic city centre, are M A THREE-NIGHT bed great for a drink or an ice cream. But the ancient Pyramid d and breakfast stay at the Having sampled the free food we come dinner time, head over the of Cestius are home too three-star plus Columbia head up the Janiculum Hill to watch river to Trastevere. Its narrow cobbled the graves of Romanticc Hotel in Rome costs the sunset. A bus from the bottom streets are buzzing but here you’ll poets Keats and Shelley.y. from £272pp including (included in the travel card) takes you find the locals-to-tourists ratio evened Entry is free. easyJet flights from up to a view far better than any roof out and prices lowered accordingly. Nearby is Pizzeria a da Francesca Gatwick. Book at www. terrace could offer. Rome is often called the Open-Air Remo, widely celebratedated as and Rob crestaholidays.co.uk or We pop into a supermarket first to Museum – and deservedly so. You can the best pizza house in Rome. Happily call 0844 879 8014. pick up a bottle of inexpensive barely turn a corner without stumbling it is also one of the cheapest and its cornerner toto thethe .Colosseum TicketsTickets areare lamp-lamp- – the regional wine – but there’s also upon an ancient ruin or relic. Most location in leafy Piazza di Santa €15.50 (£13) but include entry to the post as a a hilltop refreshment kiosk. are free to visit but it is worth buying Maria Liberatrice makes it a great spot impressive ruins. sign of their love before throwing the On the way back to the hotel we a travel card which covers all bus, for couples or families. That evening I take Rob to the key into the river Tiber. take one last look at the Trevi Fountain. metro and tram journeys. A three-day In the afternoon we head to the , just north of the city We add our own small padlock to According to tradition, if you throw pass costs €11 (about £9). heart of , taking in the centre. The bridge was made famous the clusters of rusting metal. Then we a penny into the water you’re We start our second day at the (free) – a great oval by Italian author Federico Moccia’s count to three and toss the key into guaranteed to return to Rome. Protestant cemetery in Testaccio. The track that hosted chariot races (think book and film I Want You, in which the water. The river flows calmly on, Thanks to our thrifty trip, I think beautiful gardens which back on to Ben Hur) – before walking around the characters fixed a padlock to the evening shadows just beginning to we can spare one...

2 THE FOX AND ANCHOR, shops, bars and clubs of bacon, sausage, from the fabulous St John to Masterchef CLERKENWELL, LONDON of Farringdon and BETWEEN eggs, white and black judge John Torode’s Smiths. The bustling ¨ Where and why: Six delightfully Clerkenwell are on pudding, hash browns, market is entertaining and the nightclubs chichi rooms above a Victorian pub in your doorstep. THE SHEETS steak, kidneys, liver, are as lively as any this side of Ibiza. For the heart of Smithfield, London’s ¨ On the menu: baked beans, mush- culture Tate Modern, Charterhouse legendary meat market. The great big The Fox offers simple rooms, fried bread Square and St Paul’s are a jaunty stroll but expert British Inside our hotel of the week AND a pint of stout. I away. St Bartholomew-the-Great church, clawfoot baths are magnificent and the The Fox and Anchor plush, purplish decor has all been done cuisine in generous have never before felt location for the fourth wedding in Four with a keen eye – and gentle humour. portions. Bar snacks range from generous mains (roasts, pies, burgers, almost virtuous tucking into an £8.95 Weddings and a Funeral, is nearby, too. Instead of a Clean My Room/Do Not outrageously good homemade pork with excellent chips). Breakfasts are (less) full English with double espresso. ¨ WAKE-UP CALL: Rooms from £115 Disturb sign for your door there is Gone scratchings with a pot of mustard on the impressive if a little frightening. The ¨ WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Clerkenwell’s a night. See www.foxandanchor.com or To The Pub/Nursing Hangover. The side, pickled eggs and cockles to £16.95 City Boy Breakfast is a dustbin lid bars and restaurants are second to none: call 0121 616 3614. ADAM LEE-POTTER