Jules Hudson Travels the Severn Valley Railway, Winner of BBC

ALL ABOARD THE SEVERN WONDER Jules Hudson travels the Severn Valley Railway, winner of BBC Countryfile Magazine’s Heritage Site of the Year, for a trip back in time to the golden age of steam Photos: Oliver Edwards & Lewis Maddox

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No 4566, a Great Western Railway locomotive built in 1924, crosses Oldbury Viaduct at the head of a Severn Valley dining train, which runs most Sundays. RIGHT Jules Hudson at Arley station ABOVE INSET Volunteer Martin McKenzie blows the whistle at Kidderminster www.countryfile.com 97 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Highley station in Shropshire, where the Engine House is located; apprentice engineer Emma Harrison loves the hands-on experience; vintage leather travel trunks at Kidderminster; Jules enjoys the air streaming past

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rom its source in the Cambrian mountains around Plynlimon near Aberystwyth, to its end, 220 miles later, in the tidal reaches at Maisemore, the river Severn Ftraces a route through some of the most spectacular scenery in the British Isles. There are, of course, myriad ways in which to explore it, either on foot, by boat, or by bike, but few can rival the unique perspective of gently rolling through some 16 miles of its more inaccessible reaches by railway. Since it was completed back in 1862, the Severn Valley Railway has played an TOP LEFT No 5164 steams over the Severn Valley via the spectacular Victoria Bridge important role in the economic development of both Worcestershire and Shropshire. one of the great tales of 19th-century Originally designed to connect a 40-mile engineering and innovation. Its chief FIVE MORE stretch between Kidderminster and engineer, Brunel, has come to embody GREAT TRAIN Shrewsbury, today it survives as one of the that can-do approach that underlined the oldest, busiest and most comprehensive Great in Great Britain. British factories JOURNEYS heritage railways in the UK. exported the best locomotives in the world, Its connections to the rest of the mainline around the world, locomotives whose network have helped it to establish a designs were honed across thousands of commanding position as a vital hub in the miles of the home railway network. infrastructure that maintains many more of Getting me onto a steam train is like the nation’s historic railways. Specialist asking a five year old if they fancy some work engineering and repair facilities and a experience in Santa’s grotto. For the past growing apprentice scheme, along with five years or so, the SVR has, in effect, acres of workshops and become my local line SOUTH DEVON RAILWAY This journey is an exciting taster expert knowledge, have since moving to the 1 “ALMOST EVERY of the classic holiday county of preserved and revived borders and Devon. Shortly after Exeter, you’ll many old skills. These Herefordshire, and find the train line is hugging the elements have helped VIEW THE UK HAS over that time, either sea wall so closely that you can the SVR lead the way in through work or play, see the froth on individual waves. the business of creating TO OFFER IS I’ve been a regular while sandy beaches and brightly and curating an visitor. My several coloured boats dot the water. increasing number of ENCAPSULATED IN filming forays, including Of course, such a dramatic line is historic railways since for Countryfile, have prone to wear and tear from the preservation charity 16 MILES OF TRACK” often focused upon the weather, but £9million has been was formed back in 1965 specifics of an engine or invested towards maintaining the cliff faces, tunnels and sea wall. – which means, this year, it proudly the role of a department. Curiously, the one www.southdevonrailway.co.uk celebrates its 50th anniversary. thing I’ve not yet been able to do freely is simply to enjoy the ride and take in the WEST HIGHLAND LINE GOD’S WONDERFUL RAILWAY unique perspective the line’s route provides 2This five and a half hour trip Since I was a boy, I’ve made no apology for of this lovely part of the world, often from Glasgow to Mallaig runs being captivated by the age of steam and undisturbed by roads and pathways. through consistently jaw-dropping the great engines that continue to harness landscapes. Rushing from the its power and project its magic. The majesty PUFFING PAST RHINOS inner city into greenery, the line of a locomotive hauling its train across a Joined by Lewis Maddox, the SVR’s events passes towering hills, calm lochs, timeless landscape has helped give the SVR coordinator, I was in good company for my stunning glens, and welcoming an envious edge over its rivals in the trip. For Lewis, almost every view that the towns and villages. After Fort William rises the grand Glenfinnan business of railway revival. For much of its UK has to offer is encapsulated in the 16 miles Viaduct, known to many from the life it was run by the Great Western Railway, of track that the SVR has made its own. And, Harry Potter films. It’s then a short or GWR. Viewed by many of its advocates as he says, what better way to experience it stretch to Mallaig, with idyllic views both past and present as God’s Wonderful than with the soundtrack of a steam to the Isle of Skye (see page 20).

Railway, the GWR and its role in opening up locomotive gently puffing its way across the www.scotrail.co.uk Alamy

much of the country to trade and travel is landscape. The Railway’s motto, “every Photo: www.countryfile.com 99 journey ends with a memory” is a just one, as mountains of mid-Wales, the aqueduct and I look forward to capturing a few of my own. “THE ENGINE the reservoirs that supply it still do what they Our journey starts in the industrial town were designed to do, bringing millions of of Kidderminster, which earned its past BELLOWS gallons of water to Birmingham every day. fortunes making carpets. Today the carpet Our carriages are packed with tourists factories have largely gone, but the ever- HUGE GASPS and enthusiasts. Without a doubt the jewel changing scenery is a trip into yesteryear, in the SVR’s crown is the Victoria Bridge. notwithstanding the Safari Park that greets OF STEAM AS Built in 1861, it’s a younger cousin of that in you as the train emerges from the tunnel Ironbridge. Designed by John Fowler, its that separates townscape from countryside. THE WHEELS 61m (200 feet) span was the longest in the What the rhinos – happily wandering about world when it was completed, and marks the a reconstruction of an Indian palace – make GENTLY DRIVE only place where the railway crosses the of the railway I don’t know, but it helps add river from which it takes its name. to the exoticism, and offers a gentle reminder US FORWARD” At Arley we pause again, just long enough that British-built trains opened up the to take in the vintage beauty of this small and farthest reaches of the Empire. pretty station. As our engine begins to draw out, it bellows huge deliberate gasps of steam VAULTING AMBITION as the wheels gently drive us forward. From Our first stop,Bewdley , is a Georgian gem, here on, the Severn Valley casts a its rooftops and spires clustering around a spell all its own as we cross the beautifully preserved station that border from Worcestershire to has appeared in many a period Shropshire. Few, if any, roads are drama. As we pull out northwards, visible from the windows, creating we enter the Severn Valley itself. the feeling that these are views Passing over the Élan Valley reserved just for us. At Highley, aqueduct, yet another reminder one of the main nodes on the line, of 19th-century engineering the SVR has positioned its Engine ambition reveals itself. Stretching House and museum. We stop long back some 80 miles to the enough to enjoy a station that

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FFESTINIOG RAILWAY 3This steam railway has a long, proud heritage. It’s over 150 years old and travels nearly 14 miles from Porthmadog harbour along the narrow gauge line and up into the heart of Snowdonia. It passes woodland and lakes and through tunnels to climb 213m (700 feet) from sea level. The slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog is your destination – the line was originally built so that the quarry’s slate could be quickly exported. www.festrail.co.uk CRAVEN ARMS 4TO LLANELLI Perhaps less well-known than some of its more famous cousins, CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Lush greenery frames the ride; the pressure gauge in the engine room; Jules on this charming little line deserves the footplate, shovelling coal into the firebox of No 43106 (‘The Flying Pig’); relaxing in a first class carriage its place here. Known as the Heart of Wales railway, the line passes through 43 remote stations among many may recognise from the opening Over the past five decades it has gone from beautiful, wild Welsh countryside. sequence of The Lion, the Witch and the strength to strength and its future looks The 90 miles between Craven Wardrobe, all adding to that otherworldliness assured. Today, the railway’s engineering Arms and Llanelli are travelled that the railway takes you into. In the past, workshops at Bridgnorth seem busier than in three hours, giving travellers Highley and the surrounding area prospered ever, the ranks of its team swelled by some plenty of time to soak in the thanks to numerous coal mines. They have seven apprentices, of whom Max Green and gorgeous views at a gentler pace. now gone, replaced and obscured by a Emma Harrison are but two. www.heart-of-wales.co.uk landscape that’s green and verdant, awash For Emma, a life in steam as a modern-day with the aroma of wild garlic and swathes of engineer represents a way of life she always deciduous trees. wanted to follow. Her blackened face surrounds a broad smile that says it all. DREAMS OF STEAM “I just love steam engines,” she beams, and At Hampton Lode, I joined volunteer driver it’s easy to see why. Thanks to the SVR and Steve Jones and fireman Carl Jones for the its determination and success in preserving last leg of my journey. Standing on the not just the machines but the skills that are SETTLE TO CARLISLE footplate, I was immersed in that wonderful needed to keep them alive, it’s clear that 5This beautiful line across the feeling of power and energy as our engine, this wonderful railway will keep on rolling Eden Valley and Yorkshire Dales affectionately known as the Flying Pig, long into the future. My latest visit over, runs through 14 tunnels and bumped and bucked its way along the line I have no doubt that its many advocates crosses 20 viaducts. It originally while I shovelled coal into the great firebox over the years are right, and while it may opened in 1876, and is so well loved that two attempts to close it that burnt all I could pour into it at have changed its name, its spirit remains failed due to public outcry. Millions temperatures up to 1500°C. true to its GWR origins. Perhaps it is God’s of pounds have now been spent Ten minutes later, we pulled into Wonderful Railway after all. CF on upgrading lines and stations Bridgnorth, the end of the line but for many over its 72 miles. There are several the unquestioned spiritual home of the SVR. › FOR MORE INFORMATION: Severn Valley Railway, charter steam train trips over the It was here, 50 years ago, that a handful of Kidderminster (01562 757900; www.svr.co.uk) summer, if you fancy travelling passionate enthusiasts launched the idea of this award-winning line in style.

preserving a railway on the brink of closure. Look out for Jules on Countryfile on BBC One www.settle-carlisle.co.uk Alamy

and Escape to the Country on BBC Two. Photos: www.countryfile.com 101 Highlights from the latest issue

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