FRANS BLOM, 1893-1963

DOUGLAS S. BYERS

HE DEATH of Frans Blom on June 23, pedition. The itinerary of this trip was based T 1963, brought to an end the career of a on reports that Blom had heard during his stay man who was probably the last of the great in or on tantalizing accounts that he had explorers in the Stevens manner. read. Blom was born in Copenhagen, August 9, Their route took them by train from Mexico 1893, the son of well-to-do parents. At home to Vera Cruz and then toward the Tuxtla all members of the family spoke English, Ger­ Mountains. Their account of a reconnaissance man, or French, each for two days in the week, of this area on horseback includes references to and their native Danish only on Sundays. This great stone heads at Tres Zapotes, Indians hunt­ early training gave Frans an idiomatic command ing with bow and arrow, a word list, ethnologi­ of all three languages, which stood him in good cal observations, and notes on a number of stead. A gentleman's training in the Fine Arts archaeological sites. A': Puerto Mexico they at the Museum of Applied Art in Copenhagen chartered a sloop — hon as had been taken by offered Frans a golden opportunity to paint the the De la Huerta revolution — and from it they town red. To this day a Dane will speak with discovered La Venta, probably the only water- some awe and respect to one who knew Blom. borne expedition to discover a ruin in Middle His escapades were the cause for a somewhat America in the last century. Next they came on forced departure from Copenhagen. Equipped Comalcalco, with its tomb where eloquent with enough money to pay his passage home if stucco figures mourned the departed. At Macu- he could not find work, Frans was urged to find spana, Lazaro Hernandez joined the party, and his place in the New World. there they once again picked up animals. Lazaro Accounts of his early years in Mexico vary became their guide, guardian, hostler, inform­ somewhat, but all agree that he worked for ant, and envoy plenipotentiary who opened the Compania Petrolera El Aguila in and gates of many an Indian town along a road that Tabasco. He soon took advantage of the oppor­ took them through the big forest to , tunity to visit ruins, including Palenque, El and then to Encanto, Bachajon, Ococingo, San Encanto, and others. Thanks to his training in Cristobal Las Casas, Comitan, and across the art, his drawings were excellent. Eventually he border into at Gracias a Dios. At sent a drawing of Stela 1 at El Tortuguero, to­ every opportunity the party collected a word gether with notes on the site, to Sylvanus Mor- list and information from the best available ley, who was able to read the inscription. This informants, so that Tribes and Temples con­ drew great praise from Morley, and his subse­ tains much ethnologically important material. quent correspondence with Blom drew Blom in­ A chance word dropped at Comitan led La evitably into the field of archaeology. He worked Farge to ask in Jacaltenango for the Jacalteca for the Mexican government at Palenque, word for "year-bearer." In astonishment at La under Gamio's aegis, and for the Carnegie Insti­ Farge's knowledge, the man spilled the informa­ tution at and other sites. Realizing tion that was the key to La Farge's work there his need for more training, he went to Harvard two years later. to study under Tozzer. During his days in Cam­ Their road led them ever higher, through bridge he cut a wide swath and made many Todos Santos and the pass which Stevens had friends, among whom was a quiet student found every bit as cold and windy nearly three- named La Farge. quarters of a century before, and down the pre­ In 1924, Frans Blom joined the Department cipitous drop to Chiantla and Huehuetenango, of Middle American Research, then under the 1200 miles of trail behind them. After the party leadership of William Gates, and set about mak­ returned to New Orleans, Blom was made head ing plans to return to Mexico to continue ex­ of the Department of Middle American Re­ plorations. Just as soon as La Farge could com­ search, following the resignation of William plete his first half-year of graduate school at Gates. Harvard, Blom brought him to Tulane to be If the First Tulane Expedition staggers the ethnologist on the First Tulane University Ex­ present-day archaeologist, the John Geddings 406 BYERS ] FRANS BLOM 407

Gray Memorial Expedition, in 1928, is an even neglected the Middle American Research Insti­ more impressive accomplishment. Blom started tute, and then resigned. He had lost his job, from Tapachula on the Pacific Coast and led his apartment, his furniture, and most of his his party to Chichen Itza by way of Comitan, friends. He went to Mexico and what became the Lacandon country, Yaxchilan, Altar de Sac- of him for a time is not known. rificios, Tikal, El Cayo, La Hondradez and Baca- There he met Gertrude Duby, a Swiss anthro­ lar, and thence to Chichen Itza — nearly 1500 pologist. She started him on the road to self- miles across almost unknown trails without respect, and by their marriage kept him there. serious difficulty or delay. And to cap it all, With support from various sources, including Blom sold his mules for more than they cost the government of the State of Chiapas, the him in Tapachula! Secretary of Health, the Instituto Nacional de Traveling with Blom was an experience. He Antropologia e Historia, La Compafiia Euskadi, was meticulous in his attention to every detail. and the Viking Fund, Blom continued his work Notes were always made with indelible ink on in Chiapas and among the Lacandones. In 1950, Lefax notebooks with a carbon that was mailed Frans and Trudy moved to San Cristobal Las home from the first town with a post office. His Casas, a town with which he had fallen in love pack outfit was the acme of efficiency, allowing when he first saw it in 1925. An abandoned room for only a few supplies, for his parties lived seminary in which they took up residence was off the land. His hammocks were slung with gradually transformed into a very beautiful hammock hitches of the Danish Navy, and he home. It was called "Na Bolom," and its in- ran his parties with a certain amount of naval signe, an ocelot; a neat play on mayance balam. discipline. As leader, he demanded the liver of Frans conceived the idea of turning their home every chicken, whether young or old! into a center for research. There he built up a He spent the 1930 season at , working library and provided facilities for students who on a reproduction of the Monjas for the Century soon came. His great interest in the Lacandones of Progress Exposition in Chicago. During the and the Indians of Chiapas made this a true course of this work, he discovered approximately center for research on linguistics and ethnologi­ 20 new stelae and demonstrated the great super­ cal matters. iority of night photography for capturing bas- On occasions they took in paying guests, es­ relief. pecially people who wanted a trip to a place In 1932, he married an heiress who shared that was not tourist-ridden. They enjoyed "Na none of his enthusiasms but was determined Bolom." They enjoyed the Indians. They en­ to bring him into her world. This marriage joyed the charming company of Trudy and ended disastrously. It is likely that Frans then Frans. fell victim of the stockmarket collapse, for he Frans became a citizen of Chiapas, known and was no longer able to raise funds to support his loved by the Indians and those of Spanish an­ grandiose plans for the Middle American Re­ cestry. He was awarded the Chiapas Prize in search Institute. Maya Research, published 1954. At his funeral was a throng of mourners, with the support of the Alma Eagan Hyatt from the Governor of Chiapas to Indians come Foundation, lived a short but useful life from down from the hills to pay their respects. A 1934 to 1937 and then collapsed for want of mountain of flowers covered his grave, tribute financial support. Frans had a sharp tongue from the humble people whom he loved. and a temper, both of which were well con­ trolled and concealed behind his very charming Eric Thompson has paid him touching tribute exterior. When things began to fall apart in Estudios de Cultura Maya (Volume III, Mexi­ around him, he sought comfort in rum, and on co, 1963). I have relied on this to refresh my some occasions his charm fell away and his memory. Thompson has compiled an exhaus­ rapierlike tongue hit home. He began to lose tive bibliography, to which I refer the reader. friends and to make enemies. Ultimately he sank deeper into the clutches of the demon rum, Andover, Massachusetts April, 1965