8 H&H Series, Thursday August 7, 2014

wine Liz Sagues restaurant of the week Raise a glass to Gascony Chewing the fat The French region’s white wines offer good value at all price levels about greasy ne entirely non- alcoholic pleasure of wine is how Oit connects with pole’s climbers place – and if you’ve been to that place, each glassful is special, wherever you Author Tom Bower’s conversation doesn’t drink it later. That’s why I’m always delighted to pour a Gascon wine, as I’ve spent many happy disappoint our reviewer but the pork does holidays in that region of gently sloping hills where vines grow alongside corn and sunflowers and the towns and villages evoke at is back! Fat is be declared in fact to be bad for the Three Musketeers’ escapades. good! Fat is the new you. Similarly, it is pointless to A very large share of the fat-free: fat, quite avoid the things you love because Young vines in the Plaimont conservertoire Gascon wine that reaches Ffrankly, is now the within them you have been told UK drinkers comes from the varieties of southwestern France, has always been on reds. But way forward. Not there lurks a terrible danger exemplary Plaimont Producteurs and there are more serious, the whites are fighting for new actually to be a fat person, of … because after not really very co-operative, whose former complex and ageworthy but still attention, and they deserve it. course (that is still uncool) but long at all they will be joyously director, André Dubosc, saw – deliciously drinkable wines. They’re sauvignon blanc-based, simply shovelling the stuff down proclaimed to be a wonder-food. and achieved – an alternative, L’Empreinte de Saint-Mont and careful work in vineyard and you – because after decades of In many new restaurants in brighter future for the juice of (which come in a tempting red cellar is resulting in wines with vilification, fatty foods and full- , they are literally serving the local white grapes as wine version, too) is a fine example. a freshness and depth of fruit fat milk have become the grub fat, in the form of lardo: cured, rather than in Armagnac, a fine The current 2010 vintage is sold which can rival – though with of choice. It doesn’t clog up the and sometimes whipped, pig fat, but under-appreciated spirit. by The Wine Society (£11.50) restraint – the market-dominating arteries, is what we’re now being spread on toast, crostini and even Plaimont spans the spectrum and Adnams (£13.40). Adnams, New Zealand sauvignons. told – and nor does it pile on the pizzas. The good stuff is worth from £5 supermarket wine to fine with a branch in Store Street, Both these, both 2013, are pounds like the absolute arch- it … the bad version, simply château bottles with style and Bloomsbury, offers an excellent good examples: Dourthe Grande villain, sugar. Well who knew? disgusting. consistency. The happy, excellent Plaimont selection – try Les Reserve (Waitrose, £9.30), with But this is not the reason you value, easy-to-enjoy introductory Bastions (£7) or the very smart Le concentrated, zingy green should now be up to your nose Old-fashioned whites are perfect for summer Faite (£19), blended each year by character, and Château Haut in fatty gourmet delectables, So I thought a traditional old- drinking. Most often from the different top names in the wine Rian (Nicolas/Spirited Wines, however – you should be eating it fashioned French restaurant colombard and ugni blanc grape world. Corney & Barrow, too, is a £9.05), actually more semillon because you like to eat it. It’s the might be the place to wallow: varieties, they are fragrant, good source of Plaimont whites. than sauvignon, but still grassy, only way. Anything you consume rich creamy sauces, and heavy citrussy-fresh and generally citrussy and tangy. because it’s “good for you” will on the meat. I had spotted Otto’s restrained in alcohol level, Freshness Perversely, this white column is not only disappoint, but – as a few weeks earlier: it seemed though as you mount the price The co-operative’s members also going to end with a red – but one with any duty – you will come to incongruous in this patch of scale the complexity increases. make fine sweet wines – again which is a splendid summer wine. resent it, and it soon will anyway Holborn – amid a cluster of All these are recommended (all from the two mansengs, gros and Alsace sticks in my memory for 2013 vintage – these are wines to petit – where unctuous richness its geranium-decked buildings, drink young): Gers White, M&S, is always countered by a lovely but geranium isn’t a smell I’d £5.30; Pujalet White, Waitrose, freshness. Pacherenc or Jurançon look for in my glass. Instead, £5.50; Gascogne Cuvée Speciale, are the words to look for (though Rolly Gassman Pinot Noir de A curious note is struck by Marilyn Monroe: M&S, £7; and – my favourite, both can also be dry, and equally Rodern 2011 (The Wine Society, with denser flavours and greater well worth pouring). £24) has a discreet but classic scattered all over the red velvet banquettes length – Grand Héron, Majestic, If D’Artagnan was a red wine forest floor and red fruit scent £8 (£6.80 if you buy two or more). drinker, he was missing a lot! and develops great aromatics on are many cushions bearing her wonderful and Move up, where the Who’s the wine writer who the palate. It’s smooth, elegant, predominant grape is often hasn’t been to Bordeaux? Not me restrained and complex, and all distractingly erotic visage. I had bagged a classic manseng, a particular treasure certainly, though like most of my the pleasures linger on and on: a among the many indigenous colleagues the emphasis there treat worth the indulgent price. Warhol, but there were plenty more variations

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Blogs Your 72-page guide to the most exclusive property in North London Area guides Properties of the week .co.uk your trusted local directory ÝÝݱ†?”†‰~†±W±Ö Thursday August 7, 2014, H&H Series 9 Joseph Connolly at Otto’s

lemon, capers, parsley and start. People who have climbed sautéed wild mushrooms. I the greasy pole, are rich and ordered (from the set menu) a powerful, and rewrite their own ballotine of foie gras and duck history.” Until, that is, Tom comes with Cox’s apple and rhubarb along. “Branson,” he says, “is a compote. This was very good bad man. And terrible company. indeed – silky and flavoursome, His rocket will be his downfall. and served with a soft warm The engine doesn’t work, you see. brioche. Tom’s brains were as He’ll never fly people into space – big as his own (what a clever calf, although he has taken $80 million then) and were, he said, “superb. in advance fares. He’s not nearly Really excellent. I love this – as rich as everyone thinks. He marvellous flavour.” He wasn’t rents out Necker Island – what drinking because the night before other billionaire rents out his he had been to a dinner where his home…? I like Ecclestone and legendarily generous host, known Cowell … though they didn’t at to us both, had served a great deal all like what I wrote about them. of Latour ’71. I contented myself loathes me, of with a modest glass of Côtes du course…” Rhône… And, as we shared a perfect crème brulée, he told me that Energising he is currently working on Tom is a local lad, having – in …! His subjects are his own words – worked himself aware, of course, that a Bower up from Gospel Oak, where biography is in one way the he was born, to a very smart ultimate accolade … but I think street in Hampstead Village, by it’s one that Blair could maybe way of Gayton Road (where his do without. “So many people house had cost him £9,500) and have said to me, ‘Why don’t you Flask Walk. He lives with his do Blair – I can’t stand him’. wife Veronica Wadley – a very He used to have 93 per cent busy and energising lady who public approval … and now he is used to be editor of the Evening utterly toxic.” Well that’s where Standard, and now is special megalomania gets you, chaps. adviser to Boris, in his role as As Tom says: “The cemeteries mayor, as well as chairing the are full of indispensable people.” Joseph at Otto’s with author Tom Bower, whose specialises in biographies of the rich and famous Arts Council and holding quite a Apart from my lunch, it was sandwich bars and coffee places, place. And in the Gents. There Ecclestone and . few directorships. all good, being here with Tom: here stands the sort of place you are token appearances from It seems to me that his subjects’ Tom enjoyed his main of chewing the fat. would have seen in 1950s Soho: a another couple of blondes – common denominator is that medallions of monkfish, lobster half curtain across the window, Bardot and Deneuve – and the they all are rampant egomaniacs bisque, crushed potatoes, confit Joseph Connolly’s latest novel, and a row of dusty dead wine clang of discordancy with the who have made vast fortunes, of tomato and shaved fennel. Boys and Girls, is published by bottles – all the greats, of course: sole representation of Audrey and want everyone in the world It was attractively presented, Quercus. All previous restaurant Yquem, Lafite, you know the Hepburn, who is about as to love them, whatever the cost but eventually he pronounced reviews may be viewed on the names. The interior continues sexually alluring as a lamppost. to honesty and integrity. Well it “expressionless – the texture website www.josephconnolly.co.uk the theme: buttoned red velvet maybe, yes … but how about some was good, but a bit bland”. As banquettes, generous tables Maverick French food, then…? to my tenderloin of pork with a with proper white cloths and Anyhoo … into this Gallic There is a set two-course peppercorn and mustard crust FACTFILE napkins, fluted glass pendants throwback, with a soupcon of lunch for £24 (£28 for three) and and wilted spinach … had we not and Willow Pattern china (can’t Hollywood, stepped my guest, the a colossal carte listing pretty been chatting so energetically, OTTO’S remember the last time I saw that esteemed journalist and maverick much all the classic greatest hits and were I not aware of a looming 182 Gray’s Inn Road WC1. in a restaurant). A curious note, tormentor of the obscenely rich … including (if you have pre- interview that Tom was later Tel: 020 7713 0107 however, is resoundingly struck and famous, Tom Bower. Tom ordered it) pressed duck. This conducting, I would actually have Open Monday-Friday, noon by Marilyn Monroe: scattered all was briefly a barrister before is a rarity these days, involving sent it back (because it always to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm; Saturday over said red velvet banquettes joining the BBC as a reporter a great silver press like a titan’s takes time, that). The woefully 6pm to 10pm. Sunday closed. are many cushions bearing her on Panorama, and since then thumbscrew: blood and bones are overcooked meat was hard and Food: wonderful and distractingly has published about 20 books, pulverised … but the whole thing crunchy, the crust bitter, having Service: erotic visage. I had bagged a most notably his piercing and eventually turns out quite nicely caught: I struggled through half The Feeling: classic Warhol, but there were merciless biographies of such – as, at £140, it ought. Tom was of it, with no pleasure at all. How, Cost: Set two-course lunch plenty more variations. And in giants (or ogres) as Richard starting with something similarly I wondered, would Tom define £24, three course £28. The carte the downstairs bar and eating Branson, , Conrad alarming from the carte: pan his biographical victims…? is pricey. space, she’s simply all over the Black, , Bernie fried fresh calves’ brains with “They have to be living, for a Les Associes Les Associes is a traditional French restaurant offering a 3 course set menu £18 per person and a la carte menu Tuesday to Friday night Outdoor seating for al fresco dining Wide range of French wines Friendly staff, speaking both English and French, and your knowledgeable host with 25 years experience as a restaurateur, are available to help guide you through the menu if you wish THINKING OF BUYING? Party bookings of up to 40 people FIND OVER 190,000 HOMES FOR SALE OR RENT Just the right place for a celebration, a birthday or other special event IN LONDON TODAY ON HOMES24.CO.UK

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