INSIDE: The Gardens of Ninfa 4 What to See and Do in Panzano 7 An Agriturismo in Piemonte 8 pacone93, flickr.com pacone93, PANZANO IN CHIANTI: dream of A Butcher ® & His Town

hen I first started going to W Chianti from my then-home in Florence I would visit many small villages (and tiny borghi — small groupings of homes, named Volume 9, Issue 2 www.dreamofitaly.com March 2010 like villages, in order to locate them on maps) before arriving in the main city of Greve, with its lovely loggia- Between and Naples: lined piazza and calling it a day. As I explored the area, I used my friend Exploring the Coast Faith Willinger’s fabulous guidebook, Eating in Italy, to discover some of the local artisan food producers. This is very now and then you hear and the remains of temples and villas. what led me to discover the town of E about a part of Italy that Given all that, perhaps the reason the Panzano in Chianti. American travelers— even those who area is “undiscovered” is that no one constantly dream of Italy and spend thing rises to the level of the best Italy Living in Italy and loving food turns time there — never mention. A lovely has to offer. Still, there is plenty of each day trip into a small treasure coastal area between charm, interest and beauty hunt. It took me a few trips to Rome and Naples is one for both beachgoers and Panzano to find the bounty I was of those places. You won’t travelers looking to expe- seeking. Most people drive right find its towns in guide- rience low-key Italian life. through Panzano on their way to books, magazines or Southern Lazio is an ideal Castellina or Radda, especially since newspaper travel sections, flirtation in a lifelong love Panzano doesn’t really have a piazza. although they make per- affair with Italy. At first glance it looks like the town is fect day trips from either home to two bars and not much else. Andrea Omizzolo, flickr.com Andrea Omizzolo, big city. It’s also worth a Italian tourism promotes But thanks to Faith’s book, I knew detour for a less expensive, less crowd- this stretch as “the Ulysses Riviera.” there was something more… ed Italian beach vacation — except in This designation grew out of the August when all the Italians arrive. Homeric legend that Ulysses visited Once I finally stopped and had the this land and was bewitched by Circe, correct address, I found the artisan The area between Sabaudia and who inebriated Ulysses and his sailors butcher, Dario Cecchini, whom Faith is a 40-mile stretch that is 60 miles with the aroma of wine made from the had so praised in her book. The south of Rome and 60 miles north of local Moscato grapes to capture and Macelleria Cecchini has been in the Naples. There are hill towns, a national control them. Maybe travelers who family for more than 250 years. Even park, gardens, churches and beaches, continued on page 2 continued on page 6 Lazio was once part of the Papal States. The Lazio Coast continued from page 1 “The ancient Romans who lived an aqueduct, villas,

give any of the following Romanesque bell tower; its roof com- places a try will be equally posed of colored ceramic tiles. At the captivated. base are slabs and parts of columns

il Quoquo, flickr.com il Quoquo, from ancient Roman structures. GAETA Behind Gaeta, on the top of Monte On a narrow peninsula fac- Orlando, there is a cylindrical tomb, ing a beautiful gulf, Gaeta said to be the best preserved of its has been a safe harbor and kind in Italy. This is the final resting Gaeta stronghold since the time of place of Lucius Munatius Plancus, a the Roman Empire — and to this day, Roman senator associated with with a NATO naval base as proof. Julius Caesar. A small ladder leads to pacone93, flickr.com pacone93, Homer and Virgil extolled its the top. Climb it if you dare; your virtues. The tiny town stands reward is a spectacular view. behind medieval walls, filled 3 with narrow alleys and Gaeta’s fine sand beach, Serapo, is pop- houses dating from the ular with wind- and kite-surfers. 11th to 13th centuries Covered with large white umbrellas and bordered by a and blue chairs all summer, it is close steep cliff. Piccolo to the modern part of Gaeta, conven- Alley, Gaeta’s ient to shopping and restaurants. longest street, is only THE LAZIO COAST March 2010 March about eight feet wide, SABAUDIA 2 paved with ancient stones. Thanks go to The immense Aragonese- for the beach town Angevine Castle is ROME of Sabaudia, built estimated to have been in 253 days. built in the 6th century Many tried to and added onto over the tame the malar- years. The Royal Chapel, ia-ridden

www.dreamofitaly.com built in 1849, is in the Pontine dome of the tallest tower. Marshes, but This is a town full of Sabaudia Gaeta Mussolini made churches. The Sanctuary of it happen, begin- SS. Trinità was visited by ning in the 1920s. The St. Francis. Its Crucifix Chapel was The Cathedral of k town’s architecture is built in 1434 over a rock that fell off Assunta e Sant’Erasmo was erected Rationalist-Fascist style: simple and nearby cliffs. From the sanctuary, visit over a more ancient church, and conse- linear, maximizing land and construc- the Grotta del Turco, a grotto on the sea crated by Pope Paschal II in 1106. The tion materials. No rococo swirls here! where light and waves create an inter- main event is the esting show. Romanesque-style mar- Like Diamond Head on ble Paschal candelabra Waikiki, Monte Circeo The Church of Annunziata, built in 1320 from the late 13th centu- rises up and out of the and rebuilt at the beginning of the 17th ry. Decorated with 48 sea at the end of century, houses many works of art and reliefs in four vertical Sabaudia’s curved the Golden Grotto, a Renaissance room rows, it depicts the beach, a long stretch of where Pope Pius IX devised the dogma life of Jesus. One of the white sand and dunes Andrea Omizzolo, flickr.com Andrea Omizzolo, of Papal infallibility. town landmarks is the Sabaudia that consistently wins cathedral’s elegant late- environmental awards Read more about Lazio in DOI’s articles and summered here left plenty behind: bridges, roads and walls.” 3

and is popular with families. There is a Italy but there is always (Tempio di Giove). The two-hour trail to the summit of Monte some “spiaggia libera” impressive vaulted base Circeo, or drive up, and enjoy stunning (free beach), and there is with a dozen arches can views of the coast. plenty of space to stroll be seen for miles. There along the water’s edge is a small restaurant The ancient Romans who lived and free of charge. and bar on the top of summered here left plenty behind: an the hill, and it is a great aqueduct, villas, bridges, roads and The location of the sea- place to take photos, Giampaolo Macorig, flickr.com Giampaolo Macorig, walls. Inland a bit is a lush agricultural side home of Tiberius Terracina with a spectacular view area where the buffalo roam—and pro- (14-37A.D.) has been on its own or as a back- duce lots of fresh buffalo mozzarella. known since the 17th drop for human Sabaudia is at the edge of Circeo century but it wasn’t subjects. Below the tem- National Park, created when the marsh- until a road construction ple is a monument to es were being drained in 1934, to project in 1957 that the Roman engineering and preserve 21,000 acres of watery land- extensive complex was the will of Emperor scape, forests, wildlife and explored and excavated. Trajan (53-117 A.D.): a wildflowers. It has a museum, cycling Thousands of fragments hundred-foot slice out

and walking paths and boasts 250 of sculptures were flickr.com Massimo Palmieri, of solid rock allowed Tempio di Giove species of birds. found. These mytho- the Appian Way to go logical works of art have been both through instead of around a hill. SPERLONGA copied and reconstructed continued on page 4 3 (as much as possible). Both versions Of all the towns along this part of are on display in the bright, modern 2010 March Italy’s Tyrrhenian coast, Sperlonga has archaeological museum (Museo dream of 3 it all. It is charming and gorgeous, with Archeologico Nazionale). The most strik- ® clustered rustic whitewashed houses, a ing piece is Ulysses’ head, rich with long wide beach, white cliffs, a busy detail and expression. ITALY marina, lovely piazzas, striking tower, Kathleen A. McCabe interesting murals, inspiring church. TERRACINA Editor and Publisher All that and the archeological site of 3 Emperor Tiberius’ sum- A pleasant seaside Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Design: Leaird Designs mer villa. resort with a huge www.dreamofitaly.com www.leaird-designs.com picturesque port, In the 1960s, a road Terracina’s central loca- Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover- ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a built from Terracina tion makes it a good year. Delivery by mail is $99 in the U.S. and Canada and to Gaeta awakened spot for visitors who $109 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online travelers to this forgot- want to explore the access to over 70 back issues and regular e-mail updates. ten fishing village. entire area. It also has Three ways to subscribe: Today visitors wander flickr.com Chiel Zelf, the best shopping. 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, Sperlonga the narrow winding Along its wide tree- Washington, DC, 20016 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 alleyways, taking photos at every turn. lined boulevards, two great boutiques 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, among many are Colavolpe (Via Rom, Mastercard and American Express accepted) There are beaches to the north and 133) for contemporary silver jewelry Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] south of the town. The north is more and Sahara (Piazza Garibaldi, 29) for Advertising opportunities are available. civilized, but to the south, beyond the costume jewelry, accessories, and E-mail: [email protected] harbor, there is a stretch of beach with especially all things felt: hats, purses, Copyright © 2010 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights trees and greenery along the shore. pins, hair ornaments. Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- Most of the beach is taken up with mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, rented shaded lounge chairs. Paying You can’t miss Terracina’s “skyline,” Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that for space on the beach is common in the remains of the Temple of Jupiter may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com on Viterbo, Ponza and Lake Bracciano. Lazio continued from page 3 Don’t miss the walled garden at the foot of the old fortress where ducks and swans glide under a moat.

An amphitheater, baths, and other Today, this romantic English-style not the first, of early Gothic architec- ruins (there are discoveries as recent as garden has plants from the ture in Italy. Austere (unlike most 2006) are scattered around the upper Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas. Italian churches) and peaceful, it has and lower parts of town. In the Centro There are 300 varieties of roses alone. beautiful rose windows and pointed Storico, Piazza del Municipio contains They and other plants, flowers and arches, twisted columns and colon- paving stones from the Roman Forum, vines climb over the remains of nades and a a crumbling archway, cathedral and walls, archways and towers. faded fresco of the small archaeological museum. Pathways that once were the Madonna streets are lined with lavender and Child. The When you’re ready to break away from as far as the eye can see. The ’s light- the coast for some exploring, these two damp conditions keep it all colored unique destinations make fabulous day lush and blooming. limestone some- March 2010 March trips: times looks gray 4 3 Don’t miss the walled garden and sometimes GARDENS OF NINFA at the foot of the old fortress yellowed, where ducks and swans glide depending on This tranquil escape 26 miles from under a moat. Ninfa has the light. St. Sabaudia is a paradise of flowers, extremely limited opening plants, trees, and ruins. Known mostly times and requires visitors to became ill while to garden enthusi- go on guided tours visiting the asts, Il Giardino di and not all guides abbey in 1274

www.dreamofitaly.com Ninfa should not be speak English, so and died here. Sacred Destinations, flickr.com Sacred Destinations, such a well-kept call or have your The Abbey of Fossanova His remains secret. Who doesn’t hotel inquire ahead were moved to appreciate a clear of time to make arrange- , but his room at Fossanova was stream, the scent of ments (39-0773-695404 or turned into a chapel. roses, honeysuckle the World Wildlife Fund and jasmine? office in Rome: 39-06-8449- Today, (39-0773- Osteria79, flickr.com Osteria79, Gardens of Ninfa 7206). Also ask about 939061; www.fossanova.ofmconv.pl) is Once upon a time, summertime concerts. an active Franciscan and a Ninfa was a town set in swampy parish church. The film, The Name of the marshes so plagued with malaria THE ABBEY OF Rose, starring Sean Connery was shot during the Middle Ages that it was FOSSANOVA 3 here. Don’t miss the chocolate shop abandoned for centuries. Long owned and café across from the main by the aristocratic Caetani family, it Built in the 12th century and restored entrance. wasn’t until the 1920s when a Caetani over the years, some of the original descendant transformed 20 acres of walls of Abbazia di Fossanova are still —Ann Cochran

this land into a botanical garden. standing. This church complex is con- Ann Cochran wrote about Sicily in the September sidered one of the earliest examples, if 2009 issue of Dream of Italy. Ninfa has been called the most The Details WHERE TO STAY small, private pool on the terrace. ocean view; they all have bal- stuffed with any number of things, There’s a fitness center and spa conies. The hotel has a pool and but typical fillings include chopped All beach hotels include their with indoor pool and Turkish baths. beach bar, a garden, accessible calamari with parsley, garlic, oil, beach services (towels, a lounge chair, umbrella) in the room In the summer, they have a chil- rooms and shuttle bus service into hot pepper and tomato sauce; price. All hotels include dren’s program. the city center. escarole and baccalà (dried cod- breakfast as well. fish); egg and spinach or broccoli rabe, sausage or ham, and Gajeta Hotel Residence (Gaeta) Virgilio Grand Hotel (Sperlonga) Circeo Park Hotel cheeses, of course. The area Lungomare G.Caboto, 6 Viale Prima Romita (San Felice Circeo) boasts its own special olives, olive (39) 0771 45081 (39) 0771 557600 Lungomare Circe, 49 oil and wine, such as Moscato di www.gajeta.com www.virgiliograndhotel.it (39) 0773 548814 Rates: Like many summer vaca- www.circeopark.it Terracina. Rates: Early June to early July, tion hotels in Italy, this one has Rates: From 120€ per room, per Unlike the so-so reputation of prices per room start at 75€; a four pricing seasons. Room rates night during shoulder season and restaurants in city hotels, the week’s stay in a small apartment (there are 72 rooms) start at 110€ 180€ during high season. beach hotels in Lazio have excel- (for two) starts at 510€. per night for April and October; In San Felice Circeo, very close to lent food, given the availability of a shoulder season, from 140€; then Panoramic views are mesmerizing Terracina, this 46-room beachfront wide variety of fresh seafood. 190€ for a few select weeks in from every angle at the Gajeta, hotel is stylish and contemporary. Stand-alone places include

August. 2010 March which overlooks the gulf. There It has lovely terraces, two fresh Rifugio Olmata, in Terracina (Via are 30 rooms, suites and apart- Olmata, 88; 39-0773-700821; Not many Italian hotels tout their seawater swimming pools, a sepa- 5 ments with kitchenettes. On the handicap accessibility. This one rate children’s pool and play- closed Tuesday) which focuses on top floor there is a self-service does. It also offers a fitness center ground, a beach bar, disco and a meat, a nice change from having laundry facility. There is a lobby and spa with a steam grotto, two great restaurant, Stiva. It is sur- fish for lunch and dinner. bar but no restaurant in-house. No restaurants, solarium and a gor- rounded by lush Mediterranean Masaniello, in Gaeta (Piazza matter — the hotel is located at geous outdoor pool. It is not right vegetation. Commestibili, 6; 39-0771-462296; the entrance of the historic town. on the beach but at just little over closed Monday), is a very old It’s also within walking distance of 1/10th of a mile, it’s within walking restaurant with great pasta and — www.dreamofitaly.com the beach at Serapo. distance. WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT yes, fish. In Sperlonga, try Lido da Rocco (Via Spiaggia Angolo, 22; Southern Lazio is the land of moz- 39-0771-548493), which offers Oasi di Kufra (Sabaudia) Hotel Torre del Sole (Terracina) zarella di bufala, where restaurants pizza in addition to a marine Lungomare di Sabaudia km 29.8 Via Pontina km 106.5 serve delicious food with an menu. (39) 0773 5191 (39) 0773 764076 emphasis on a wide variety of www.oasidikufra.it www.torredelsole.com freshly caught seafood. Culinary Rates: From 106€ per person, per Rates: Per person, per night, begin delights include linguine alla night during high season (June 19 at 43€ in low season and 64€ in pescatora (with fish), fried calamari – end of August). If you stay earlier high season. and prawns, branzino (sea bass), in June, or in May, the rates start orate (seabream) and small sweet at 88€ or even 65€. This high-rise on the beach has 3 green peppers (friarielli). Inland, recently been renovated, so every- you might find chestnut soup on On the beach with a view of Monte thing is fresh and new. The restau- the menu, along with baby goat Circeo, there are 120 rooms rant is wonderful. Simply furnished, and lamb. Tiella, a kind of cross including some apartments with most of the 114 rooms have an between pizza and calzone, is kitchenettes. Six suites have a 1 € = $1.33 at press time romantic garden in the world. Panzano continued from page 1

if Dario was not the character that he served family-style. It is almost as into a lunch spot. Patrons could order a is, that would be reason enough to stop good as being invited to Dario’s home tasting of the cooked products which by. to eat. are sold in the Macelleria or as a joke, he created the MacDario, a ½ pound After the first visit, I was hooked. This But that wasn’t enough, people wanted burger, served without a bun, Italian is more than just a butcher shop and to eat the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina style, but with a side of roasted pota- Dario, contagious with his passion for when they came to Panzano, and none toes and a side of onions and tomatoes. his profession and for life, is far more of the local restaurants were serving it. than just a butcher. So, in 2009, the Dario’s customers have made Panzano Music is always play- Officina della Bistecca a must for food lovers and created ing here. While you was born. Dario’s opportunity for more work in the small wait for your meat, original idea was for town. Years ago, Dario helped sponsor there’s food on the it to be a school to an artisan workshop in Panzano to table for tasting along understand the vari- help maintain the local arts and crafts with wine. ous cuts of the steak that were rapidly disappearing. From and teach people this class, Panzano gained Carlo Fagiani Dario has taken the Officina there is more than just a transport executive turned custom family butcher shop now and expand- a T-bone steak. Three different cuts that shoe-maker and leather worker. Carlo’s ed it to a small empire. In 2006, his Dario sells for steak, the Costata, the shop is now run in conjunction with dream grew and expanded into a Fiorentina and the Panzanese, are his girlfriend, Karina Wollinsky, selling restaurant, Solociccia. He had made a cooked right in front of you on a huge his leather creations and her custom name for himself selling huge T-bone open grill right in the restau- clothing designs. March 2010 March steaks, but since he buys the whole rant. 6 sides of beef, there are many more cuts Talent runs wild in of beef to be used. The shop was filled Now Dario was buying even Panzano. Dario’s sister with a myriad of Dario’s clever cre- more beef and needed another Marina, the quieter ations, many already cooked, to use way to use the non-steak cuts. member of the family, the rest of the meat. He was already selling lots of has long worked restor- ragu and meatloaf using ing antique furniture. Solociccia, which means “only meat” ground meat. The restaurants Recently she expanded was created to use the other cuts, were serving dinners only. He her business to include

www.dreamofitaly.com which in the past what the butchers took the open space outside of a small shop, Bonheur, family ate. The restaurant has large the Officina which led to the just a few doors away tables and you are seated together and back parking lot and turned it Marina Cecchini from Dario’s, with love- Dario’s Panzano

Macelleria Cecchini, Solociccia, Soloiciccia: Open Thursday, Friday Officina della Bistecca: Open MacDario: This is the new lunch spot Officina della Bistecca and and Saturday evenings, with seatings Tuesday, Friday and Saturday located outside on the patio in front of MacDario at 7:00 and 9:00 p.m. On Sunday, evenings at 8:00 p.m. and on Sunday the Officina (and inside in case of bad Via XX Luglio, 11/r (next to the post there’s a lunch seating at 1:00 p.m. at 1:00 p.m. The menu (50 € per per- weather). The specialty hamburger office) The cost is 30 € per person for a son) includes at least three varieties with fixings is 10€. Other dishes such (39) 055 852020 choice of six meat dishes with sea- of steak including the famous as “Chianti sushi” (steak tartar) are www.dariocecchini.com sonal vegetables, white beans with Bistecca all Fiorentina and the sides also available. Open every day except Reservations necessary for Solociccia olive oil, focaccia, bread, cake, coffee, mentioned above, including wine. Sunday. and Officina or to reserve a steak. a quarter liter of Dario’s wine and after-dinner liqueurs. You are also free to bring your own wine without a cork- age fee. The first designation of a wine area called called fabulous Belgianartist Around thecorneris and hiswife, wine barrun by door is right nearthepark.Next painter hasasmallstudio Carmine, destination untoitself. former drive-through villageisnowa Chianti withPanzanoasabase.This It iseasytospendafullweekin longer… drive homeafterwards orevenstay to comedinnerinthetownandnot be opening,perfectforthosethatwant new bedandbreakfast whichwillsoon dad leftthem.Marinahascreated a of property thatDarioandMarina’s the shop,andbuiltahomeonpiece er toPanzano,justupthestreet from Marina and bread forthetown. used bythevillagetobakeall year-old wood-burningoventhatwas garden patioandishometothe300- the night.Thehomefeatures alovely property availablefortheweek,orby by villageof family home( and recently retired. Hehasturnedhis Marina’s husbandisawood-worker creams madefrom oliveoil. She isalsocarriesalineofsoapsand Northern Italyinthebackofshop. the lovelyItaliancashmere from of thebestkeptsecrets attheshopis ly products forthehome.Probably one Enoteca Baldi, an incredible Mimmo and Arianna, Enoteca Baldi Marcello Lamole Arianna. Casa alPrato Mimmo Chianti into arental have movedclos- a Jan ) inthenear- Carmine Errichiello Sunday ofthemonthfor If youcan,visitPanzanoon thefirst vineyards. ered partsofChianti,pastvillasand fabulous route through theundiscov- As youwalkuptotheoldvillagewith ing. a large outdoorterracefor lovely restaurant, Across from Jan’sstudioisanother ture hisclayandbronze sculptures. Praet www.janpraet.com (39) 055852742 Piazza Bucciarelli,39 Jan Praet www.panzanopainting.com (39) 055852233 Piazza Bucciarelli,25 Studio Artemesia Art Carmine Errichiello Chianti, whichwillopenthisyear. ty aswellB&BCasaRosso Marina’s shopandrentalproper- See theWeb sitefordetailson www.marinacecchini.info Via XXLuglio,19 Bonheur Marina Cecchini was 1716. made in has openedanartstudiotofea- road leadsyouona you are driving,this the topofhill.If bar andrestaurant at butcher, baker, wine ceramic shops,another tower. You willpassby the castlewallsand Maria andyoucansee the church ofSanta Oltre ilGiardino, More inPanzano Aprilante, alfresco www.versoxverso.com (3) 055852239 Via G.daVerrazzano, 17/19 Karina Wollinksy www.annabucciarelli.it (39) 055852323 Via XXLuglio,17 Jewelery designer Anna Bucciarelli din- with the time toexplore eachone. Italy, suchasPanzano,andtakingthe digging deeperinthesmalltownsof This iswhatmemoriesare madeof, linens. antique dessertmolds,jewelryand some real treasures tobefoundsuchas and asmallfleamarket.There are and continuesupthehillwithcrafts The artisanmarketstartsinthepark ers congregate infront ofDario’sshop. artisan street market.Thefoodproduc- March toDecember. Open dailynoonto8p.m., www.enotecabaldipanzano. (39) 055852843 Piazza Bucciarelli,25 Enoteca Baldi Closed Monday www.ristoranteoltreilgiardino.it (39) 055852828 Piazza Bucciarelli,42 Oltre IlGiardino blogspot.com from MyTuscan Kitchen Tuscany for25years.She www.divinacucina.com is theauthorof American JudyWitts Francini haslivedin and canbefoundat —Judy Witts Francini Secrets

www.dreamofitaly.com March 2010 7 The Warmth and Charm of Ca’ Villa

In their new book, The Italian Farmer’s farm’s original cantina—are set against farmhouse, and a top-notch chef, Ca’ Table: Authentic Recipes and Local a backdrop of sleek lines, abstract Villa opened its doors for business. Lore from Northern Italy (Globe Pequot, paintings, and modern amenities $19.95), Matthew Scialabba and including a large pool, a For Marco, finding a chef who shared a Melissa Pellegrino uncover the red-clay tennis court, similar vision for the agrituris- Ca’ Villa area’s best agriturismi offering and an open patio mo was vital. When long-time Via Stefano, 19 true regional cuisine. Here is an with huge white friend Franco Piumatti, a native Gabiano excerpt on Ca’ Villa in umbrellas overlook- of the Langhe, closed his (39) 0142 945126 Piemonte: ing rolling hills. restaurant in nearby Alba, www.ca-villa.it Marco’s agriturismo Marco knew he was a perfect Rates: For half board in Marco Villa’s agriturismo in offers a haven for fit for the type of cuisine he a double room, prices the Monferrato region of Piemonte tourists seeking a more active aspired to serve in his restau- start at 80€ per person, makes trendy boutique hotels in many holiday, and Ca’ Villa’s city- rant. With a deep respect for per night. Dinner only is international cities look out of style. An chic feel in the bucolic the traditional classics of his 30€ per person. architect for a German firm, Marco has Piemontese countryside creates region and an intense passion a keen eye for detail, and his design for an idyllic setting of comfort and relax- for innovation, Franco has a unique Ca’ Villa makes obvious the amount of ation. approach to cooking. In his updated, time spent restoring the farmhouse and modernized kitchen, Franco shines, his desire to cater to a sophisticated Marco bought the abandoned building using cutting-edge appliances to pre- international crowd. in 1999 and immediately planted pare time-honored dishes. hazelnut trees, hoping to restore the Rustic elements from the 1726 struc- villa into an agriturismo one day. Six While Franco incorporates as much of March 2010 March ture—brick vaulted ceilings, exposed years later, with a bountiful hazelnut the farm’s own honey, hazelnuts, fruit, 8 knotty hand-hewn beams, and the production, a completely renovated and vegetables as he can into his cre- ations, he fiercely insists on sourcing only the absolute best ingredients from Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Grape Sauce his native region. Rather than braising (Filetto di Maiale con Sugo d’Uva) meats slowly in a covered pot on the stove, Franco puts his fancy technolog- In a large ovenproof sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons Piemontese grapes ical oven to work, sealing meats in a of butter with 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high tend to go toward vacuum sealer and then placing them making one thing: heat. Season the pork tenderloins with salt and www.dreamofitaly.com in an extremely low oven for hours, pepper. Sear the pork on one side until golden wine. But here the resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth brown, about 5 minutes, then flip over. Place a few sweet, delicate fla- texture packed with flavor. vors of the grapes pats of butter on top of pork and finish cooking in the oven, 25 to 30 minutes or until a thermometer pair perfectly with Current with food trends from all over reads 140°F (60°C). Remove the pork from the the tenderness of the pork. Just don’t forget the world, Franco makes a Moscato oven and place on a cutting board. Let the meat to pair it with a crisp white wine. wine gelée, which he uses to garnish a rest for 15 minutes. (Serves 4-6) caramelized red-onion risotto. His sin- Meanwhile, make the sauce: place a sauté pan, gle large raviolo with a runny egg yolk 4 tablespoons unsalted butter with the juice from the pork, back over the medium tucked into a spinach and ricotta filling 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil heat. Add the grapes, and a pinch of salt, and sauté exemplifies his pasta-making skills and 2 pork tenderloins, 1 – 1 ¼ pounds each until they release their juices, 3 to 5 minutes. always receives rave reviews from the Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper dining room. 1 cup red or green grapes (or a mixture) Add the mustard, warm water, and thyme to the cut into quarters pan and cook 1 minute. Season to taste with salt Marco and Franco’s forward-thinking 1 tablespoon honey mustard and pepper. approach and inventive ways keep Ca’ 1 tablespoon warm water Cut the pork into medallions, and spoon the grape Villa at the forefront of progressive 1 tablespoon chopped thyme sauce over the pork. Serve immediately. trends, yet their respect for the historic past and the roots of their culture Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C) ensures the farm’s warmth and charm. Piemonte produces more rice than any other Italian region.