Culinary journeys around Japan

Despite its limited land area, the Japanese archipelago stretches across climate zones from the cool temperate to the subtropical. That diversity gives rise to a vast array of foods, seasonings, and cooking styles from region to region—a real boon for travelers and food lovers alike.

Bento lunch boxes Whole histories of style and regional flair

ento boxed lunches have gained a flasks and cups evolved, later flourish- was named after the early Edo-period Bfast following overseas, especially ing during the (1603– painter, priest, and tea master Shokado in France. Prompted by the limitless 1867), when it spawned many new Shojo (1584−1639), who had appropri- array of accessories in designs ranging styles. Around the late 1600s, ated just such a box, commonly used by from the cute to the refined, more and theatergoers packed their own bento farmers to store seeds, as his paint kit. more people are taking on to this cre- to have at kabuki performances; by the In its four compartments the Sho- ative way of styling a movable meal. mid-1800s, the theaters themselves be- kado bento neatly holds such basic cat- An invention of convenience, the gan selling bento for their egories of washoku as rice, , a boxed lunch originated in Song-dynasty patrons to enjoy at intervals between dish of vinegar-dressed fish (960–1279) China and arrived in Kyo- the plays. and , a simmered dish like to in the late 1300s. It soon spread With the arrival of steam engines takiawase, a yakimono grilled item, or throughout Japan; today, every corner in the Meiji era (1868–1912), eki-ben an aemono cooked salad—all of which of the country boasts its own bento boxed meals started selling at station can be prepared to taste good when made with local fare. platforms. Today there are innumera- cool or at room temperature. The Initially, three-tiered jikiro baskets ble varieties of such takeaway lunches freshest in-season ingredients are ar- of woven bamboo were used by the throughout Japan, and travelers from ranged with care to achieve a balance Japanese for spring blossom-viewing near and far seek them out for the tasty of harmony using the five colors red, picnics and autumn excursions to en- local specialties they feature. In 1937, a yellow, green, white, and black in this joy the foliage or gather mushrooms. high-end Japanese restaurant in Osaka quintessentially Japanese culinary art Toward the late 1500s, the sageju set of launched the famous Shokado bento. form, one that food lovers everywhere wooden boxes, serving plates, and Presented in a quartered square box, it now claim as their own.

34 Hassun

Milt dressed with vinegar, komatsuna mustard spinach, salmon roe, rolled omelet, prawn, beef tongue simmered in sweetened , and others.

Sashimi Sea bream, iwatake Takiawase lichen with gold A simmered leaf, squid, Chinese medley of yam, mizuna pot­- bamboo shoots, herb mustard, butterbur stalks, pumpkin, and broad beans, . wakame seaweed, and young sansho pepper leaves.

Rice

Shokado bento by Kyoto Kitcho Steamed white rice sprinkled with white sesame seeds.

The Edo-style makunouchi bento began as a meal Wrapped in fragrant bamboo leaves, pressed Arranged on a bed of rice, shredded scrambled to have between kabuki plays, but has since be- masu-zushi trout from Toyama prefecture is eggs and soboro minced chicken cooked in sweet- come a standard type for any occasion. a classic eki-ben meal from that locale. ened soy sauce are a colorful and filling duo.

35 Local fare

Across the country, a wealth of flavors on the daily table

ying in the Pacific Ocean off the remarkable range of fish caught in dif- Locally harvested pickled vegetables Lnortheastern coast of Eurasia, the ferent areas and available at different are also favored. Japanese archipelago stretches from times throughout the year make it Simmered nimono, the mainstay the cool temperate zone in the north one that’s hard to tire of. of side dishes, are cooked in to the subtropical in the south. A Sushi is another favorite dish stock made from dried foods unique feature of this arc of islands is made in homes throughout Japan to that are rich in savoriness— the collision of warm and cold cur- mark such special occasions as the cured bonito shavings, dried rents swirling off its long eastern New Year holiday, spring Girls’ Festi- kelp, or dried anchovies, for exam- seaboard. val, and autumn harvest celebrations. ple—and are seasoned with such fla- Thanks to that geographical place- Its forms vary widely from region to vorings as soy sauce, , , and ment as well as its mountainous ter- region: one finds tossed chirashi-zushi, sugar. Root and sea vegetables feature rain, Japan is blessed with four dis- rolled maki-zushi, pressed oshi-zushi, prominently in most regional recipes. tinct seasons, and its different regions layered kiri-zushi, fermented nare-zushi, Hotpots are a popular dish cooked boast diverse climates. Its ocean waters tsutsumi-zushi wrapped in persimmon in all parts of Japan in the colder are in turn nurtured by the soil of nat- or bamboo leaves, and inro-zushi months. Typically seasoned with miso ural woodlands that cover 67 percent stuffed in fried , konnyaku jelly, or or soy sauce, they are a particularly of the country’s land mass. These fac- bamboo shoots. As these many exam- well-balanced and nutritious way to tors support a wealth of edible plant ples suggest, sushi is the unquestion- enjoy local produce, and the experi- and animal life from sea and land; able star of regional fare. ence of gathering with others around within that rich setting, each region Rice steamed together with other a simmering pot to share not only the has its locally grown foods and styles ingredients to make , meal but good conversation as well of cooking that have evolved apace. or, as it is called in some areas, ajimeshi, makes this style of food all the more As varied as their tastes and cook- is another dish that lends itself well to inviting. ing styles are, all regions of this island distinct local styles. Most often it is Some regions have traditionally country share one dish in common seasoned with soy sauce. eaten noodles as their staple rather that appears without fail in celebra- Another shared feature of Japan’s than rice. Types and cooking methods tory menus for festivals and other aus- regional cuisines is balance. Again, vary from place to place, but represen- picious occasions: sashimi. For such a ichiju sansai is the rule of thumb for a tative are wheat-flour noodles such as prevalent dish, the body of collective well-composed meal: rice is accompa- kenchin , flat hoto, and the wider wisdom on proper handling for fresh- nied by a bowl of soup and a number okirikomi, all of which are cooked in ness is, naturally, extensive. Only the of sides, also called okazu. These might flavored soups with vegetables; and finest catch is filleted, expertly sliced, be fish; nimono simmered dishes kate- buckwheat noodles, cooked and aesthetically arranged for eating. made with leafy and root vegetables, with vegetables and served cold with a A well-established system of distribu- dried foods, and soybean products dipping sauce. tion ensures that fish gets to market, like deep-fried and freeze-dried tofu; Such mineral-rich, nutritionally and to each home or restaurant table, and aemono cooked salads featuring balanced foods and the “slow” ap- in the best condition. While sashimi vegetables or seaweeds dressed in ses­ proach to preparing and enjoying is the simplest dish imaginable, the ame, walnuts, tofu, miso, or vinegar. them are the very heart of washoku.

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1. Tossed chirashi-zushi, a favorite home-style celebratory dish. 2. Chikuzenni braised chicken and vegetables. 3. Kiritanpo toasted rice dumplings. 4. Saba-zushi vinegar- cured mackerel on rice. 5. Flat hoto noodles. 6. Mushrooms grilled hoba-miso style on a magnolia leaf.

1. Plate and rice scoop courtesy of Kurashi no Utsuwa Hanada 2. Bowl courtesy of Kurashi no Utsuwa Hanada 3. Earthen pot courtesy of Kurashi no Utsuwa Hanada 5 6 4. Saba-zushi made by Izuu of Kyoto 5. Bowl courtesy of Kurashi no Utsuwa Hanada

37 Dashi stock

The savory base of washoku, rich in glutamates

he defining flavor element in long artisanal process of many weeks is to make, requiring nothing but these Twashoku, dashi stock is made involved in its creation: the fish is fil- dried ingredients, water, and a few from such dried foods as kombu kelp, leted, simmered, deboned, dry-smoked, minutes of time. cured bonito, and cured with mold spores, and sun-dried The key to making a proper full- mushrooms. Dashi is indispensable to to yield its rock-hard form and com- bodied dashi is temperature control. all soups, simmered or braised dishes, plex umami taste. To draw a pure-tasting stock without and noodles; it even flavors aemono Anchovies, kombu, and shiitake bitter off-flavors,ou y should begin cooked salads. Its distinct savoriness is mushrooms in their dried forms are with cold water and slowly heat the in- called umami, well known in culinary other ingredients commonly used to gredients to no higher than 80°C, or circles abroad and widely considered make dashi. These may be used singly barely boiling. the sixth taste after sweet, sour, bitter, or in combination, depending on the The water-soluble glutamates in a spicy, and salty. dish. Regional traditions and family well-made dashi stock have an intense Umami derives from certain ami- preferences also come into play in de- umami and a tantalizing aroma that no acids and nucleotides naturally con- termining how dashi is made. Animal- are enhanced by such principal wa- tained in marine and agricultural based and plant-based ingredients shoku seasonings as soy sauce and products. When these raw materials work well together, enhancing the miso. The fact that such flavor can be are dry-cured, umami becomes con- other’s flavors and yielding depth— extracted in a flash in any home kitch- densed. Katsuobushi has the most con- this synergistic effect is why cured bo- en, even by a novice cook, is owed to centrated umami savoriness, and is nito and kombu are often combined. the labor-intensive steps involved in probably the most frequently used In contrast to the vaunted fonds of each ingredient’s production, whether dashi ingredient. Not surprisingly, a French cooking, dashi is fast and easy curing or sun-drying or both.

Place pieces of kombu in a saucepan of cold wa- A special tool not unlike a carpenter’s plane is ter, allowing them to soak for 30 minutes. On used to shave a block of katsuobushi. With its wa- medium heat bring to about 80°C, when tiny ter content greatly reduced over the long curing bubbles form just before the boiling point. Add process, katsuobushi is rock-hard and difficult to bonito shavings to the pan, let sit for a minute, shave, but the intense flavor released when those and then strain through a cloth or paper filter. shavings meet hot water is well worth the effort.

38 Dried kombu kelp Thick dried kombu makes a clean and understated dashi. It is often combined with Dried shiitake cured bonito shavings for a classic washoku With a rich aroma stock. Soak the fronds that tickles the nose, in plenty of water for shiitake dashi is half an hour and cook indispensable to shojin at 80°C for a minute. cuisine, the vegetarian cooking of Buddhist temples. Soak dried shiitake mushrooms overnight to rehydrate.

Katsuobushi cured bonito shavings A central ingredient of dashi, shaved bonito can be used alone or in tandem. For the best flavor, shave just before using.

Niboshi Dried anchovies produce an aromatic dashi rich in taste. Remove the heads and guts, and soak in plenty of water for 3 hours.

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