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Monografia Patagonia TOPO Poniższe Opracowanie Topograficzne Opie- Kładnie

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Monografia Patagonia TOPO Poniższe Opracowanie Topograficzne Opie- Kładnie monografia Patagonia TOPO Poniższe opracowanie topograficzne opie- kładnie. Proponuję przyjąć, iż drogi na tych Pier Giorgio), których z braku dostępnego materia- ra się na wielu różnych materiałach, nierzadko zdjęciach mają przebieg przybliżony, a poniższa łu fotograficznego nie byłem w stanie przedstawić. sprzecznych i niedokładnych. Dołożyłem wszel- monografia stanowi punkt wyjścia dla zaintere- Poniższa monografia to próba objęcia masywu kich starań, by jak najwierniej oddać przebieg sowanych patagońskimi szczytami. Torres i Fitz Roya – z konieczności z pominięciem dróg poprowadzonych na patagońskich szczy- Oczywiście nie są to wszystkie drogi i wszyst- kilku mniejszych ścian i wierzchołków (np. Aguja tach w rejonie El Chalten. Jednakże nie jestem kie wierzchołki rejonu położonego nad El Chalten. Rafael, Desmochada, El Mocho itp.) oraz zachod- w stanie zagwarantować, iż na przedstawionych Nieco na północ znajduje się jeszcze kilka atrakcyj- niej wystawy masywu Torres. materiałach wszystko przedstawiono ultrado- nych ścian i szczytów (jak choćby Aguja Polone czy Opracowanie topo: Jakub Radziejowski fot. Marcin Wernik Marcin fot. fot. Jakub Radziejowski Jakub fot. 13 13 15 4 19 1 28 14 23 25 10 27 1 25 2 9 11 8 18 3 14 5 12 15 16 20 17 24 Masyw Torres od wschodu. Od lewej Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Heron i Aguja Standhardt Masyw Torres od południowego wschodu. Od lewej Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Heron i Aguja Stand- hardt. W prawym dolnym rogu północna ściana El Mocho MASYW TORRES (WI6, A4, 5.12), Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo, WI6, Mushroom Ice 6, 2200 m) Colin Haley, (nie wszystkie drogi znajdują się na topo) Francek Knez, Peter Podgornik, Pavel Ko- Rolando Garibotti, 21–24 I 2008; zjek, Slav Svetičič, styczeń 1986; Cerro Torre (3102 m) 3. Five Years to Paradise (5.10b A2 95°, 1000 m), Ściana zachodnia Ściana wschodnia Ermano Salvterra, Allesandro Beltrami, 6. Cristalli nell Viento, próba zach. ścianą do po- 1. Droga przez Kompresor – Maestriego (VI+, Giacomo Rosetti, listopad 2004; łączenia z drogą nr 5 (6b, A1, 90º, 1200 m,), A3, 1200 m), Cesare Maestri, Ezio Ali- 4. Próba Brytyjska 1981, Phil Burke i Tom Proctor Maurizio Giordani, Elio Orlandi Odoardo monta, Carlo Claus, bez wejścia na śnieżny 5. Maestri-Egger (1959) albo Arca de los Vientos Ravizza, 27 X–1 XI 1994; grzyb, grudzień 1970, I prz. zim. Andrea (5.11 A1, 90°), Alessandro Beltrami, Ermanno 7. Zachodnią ścianą, droga Ferrariego/Pająków Archi, Maurizio Giarolli, Paulo Caruso, Salvaterra i Rolando Garibotti, 11–13 XI 2005, (VI, A2, WI 6, 95º, 1200 m) Casmiro Fer- Ermanno Salvaterra, 3–7 VII 1985; ta sama linia została wykorzystana podczas rari, Mario Conti, Giuseppe Negri, Daniele 2. Diabelska Direttissima, Droga Słoweńska przejścia finalnego Trawersu Torres (5.11 A1, Chappa, szczyt osiągnięto 15 I 1974; 56 GÓRY kwiecień 2009 monografia Ściana południowa 8. A la Recherche du Tempe Perdu, próba kontynuacji zachodnią ścianą (ED+, 70º/90º, 700 m), Francois Marsigny, Andy Parkin, 23–24 II 1994; przejście całości do szczytu: Colin Haley i Kelly Cordes, 5–6 I 2007; 9. Południową ścianą (5.11, A4), Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo, listopad 1987 – sty- czeń 1988, bez wejścia na szczyt, do połączenia z drogą nr 1; 10. Infinito Sud(5.11 A4, WI5), Ermanno Salvaterra, Roberto Manni, Piergior- gio Vidi., listopad 1995, bez wejścia na szczyt; 11. What’s Love Got to do with it (ABO, VIII-, A4, 90º, 800 m), Janez Jeglič, Marko Likic, Miha Praprotnik, 17–25 I 1994, do połączenia z drogą nr 1; El Mocho (jest więcej dróg, tu zaznaczono tylko jedną) 12. Back to the Front (5.10, A4, 540 m), Jay Smith, Steve Gerberding, styczeń 1992. Torre Egger (2673 m) Ściany południowa i wschodnia 13. Droga Amerykańska (5.9, A4, WI 5), John Bragg, Jim Donini i Jay Wilson, szczyt osiągnięto 22 II 1976, pierwsze wejście na szczyt; 14. Psycho Vertical (VII+, A3, WI6), Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo i Francek Knez, grudzień 1986; 15. Badlands (5.10, A3, WI 4+), Conrad Anker, Jay Smith, Steve Gerberding, szczyt osiągnięto 12 XII 1994; 16. Titanic (6b, A2, 90º), Maurizio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi, 3-5 XII 1987; 17. Droga Włoska (6a, A2, 90°, 1000 m), Giuliano Giongo, Bruno de Dona, szczyt osiągnięto 15 III 1980, podczas zejścia zdobyto też Punta Herron – pierwsze wejście na szczyt; 18. Kombinacja dróg 4, 5 i nowego terenu (5.10d, A2+, WI6), Timmy O’Neill, Natan Martin, 22–24 I 2002; Punta Herron (2750 m) Ściana wschodnia 19. Spigollo del Bimbi (VI+, 85°), Ermanno Salvaterra, Adrianno Cavallaro, Ferrucio Vidi, 26–29 X 1991, podczas próby przejścia Trawersu Torres; 20. Tobogan (M6, V+, A2, 700 m) Silvo Karo, Rolando Garibotti, 28 XI 1999; Ściana zachodnia 21. Gracias a la vida (6a, A3, 750 m), bez wejścia na szczyt, Andrea Sarchi, Odoardo Ravizza, Maurizio Giarolli, 8-9, 12 XI 1992; 22. Giaconda (ED2) bez wejścia na szczyt, Ermanno Salvaterra, Maurizio Giovannazzi, 4–8 XI 1998; Cerro Standhardt (2650 m) Ściana wschodnia 23. Hall-Whittle (VI, A2), Brian Hall, John Whittle, bez wejścia na szczyt, 9–10 II 1977; 24. Motivaciones mixtas (6b, A2, 85°) Teodoro Plaza, José Chaverri, 30-31 XII 1993; 25. Exocet (WI6, 5.10), Jim Bridwell, Greg Smith, Jay Smith, styczeń 1988, pierwsze wejście na szczyt; 26. Tomahawk (5.9, A2 WI4+), wariant startowy do drogi 23, Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding, 15 I 1995; 27. Próba Amerykańska, Jim Donini i inni, 1977; 28. Festreville (5.11, WI5, 550 m), Timmy O’Neill, Nathan Martin, luty 2000; 29. S.C.U.D (5.11, A1+, WI4, 400 m), wariant startowy do drogi 23, Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnot, 18 II 1998; Ściana zachodnia 30. Otra Vez (6a+, A1, 80°, 1120 m), Ermanno Salvaterra, Maurizio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi, 21–25 XII 1989; 31. Leonardo da Vinci (550 m, A2+), tylko do połączenia z drogą 28, David Autheman, Antoine Noury, XI–XII 1998. kwiecień 2009 GÓRY 57 monografia Fitz Roy (3405 m) 1. Droga Kalifornijska (5.11, 55°, 650 m + 300 m), Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dar- worth, Lito Tejada-Flores, Doug Tompkins, Chris Jones, 20 XII 1968, I prz. klas: Dean Potter, samotnie 5 II 2002, I prz. sam.: Thomas Budendorfer (1986); Fot. Jakub Radziejowski Jakub Fot. 2. Droga Kanadyjska (5.10 A1, 500 m + 300 m), Paul McScoreley, Jon Walsh, luty 2005, powtórzone w 7h w tym samym sezonie; 3. Droga im. Borisa Simončič (VI A2, 55°, 650 m + 300 m), Bogdan Biscak, Rado Fadjan, Matevz Lenarcic, szczyt osiągnięto 22 XII 1985; 4. Droga Angielsko-Amerykańska (VI A3, 55°, 650 m+ 300 m), Julian Mo An- thoine, Eddie Birch, Larry Derby, Guy Lee, Dave Nicol, Ian Wade, szczyt osiągnięto 20 grudnia 1972; 6 5. Droga Francuska (5.9 A3, 55°, 650 m + 300 m), Guido Magnone, Lionel Ter- ray, szczyt osiągnięto 2 II 1952; pierwsze wejście na szczyt; 6. Franco-Argentina, argentyński wariant prostujący do drogi pierwszych zdo- 5 bywców (6c, 55°, 650 m + 300 m), A.Bendinger, E.Brenner, M.Couch, 13b P.Friedrich, 9–10 III 1984, I prz. klas. (?), I prz. sam.: Miyazaki Motohito; 7. Droga Hiszpańska (5.9 A4, 80˚, 1100 m), Miguel Angel Gallego, Jose Luis Garcia Gallego, wspinaczka rozłożona na lata 1982 i 1984, szczyt osiągnięto 20 III 1984; 8. Droga Włoska, pd.-wsch. filarem (VI A3, 1200 m),Casmiro Ferrari, Vittorio Meles, szczyt osiągnięto 23 III 1976; 13 9. Royal Flush (7b A1, 950 m), Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Jörg Gerschel, Lutz Richtel, styczeń–luty 1995 (bez wejścia na szczyt). I prz. do szczytu 7 1-2 luty 1998 G.Gäbel, M.Schafroth, R.Treppte; 10. El Corazon (5.11 A4, 1200 m), Kaspar Oschner, Michal Pitelka, szczyt osiągnięto 20 9 II 1992, po dwóch miesiącach akcji i zaporęczowaniu 1000m, bez powtórzenia; 10 11 12 11. Linea di Eleganza (5.11b, A3, 90°, M7, 1250 m), Horacio Codò, Lucas Fava, Elio 8 13a Orlandi, szczyt osiągnięto 7 II 2004 po dwóch miesiącach akcji i 8 dniach w ścianie, I prz. klas. (5.12+, M8): Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue, 22–24 II 2006; 12. Devil’s Dihedral,(VII A2, 60°), Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo, Francek Knez, szczyt osiągnięto 8 XII 1983; 13. Droga Casarotto – Północnym Filarem Goretty (5.10 A1, 60°), Renato Casa- rotto, samotnie, szczyt osiągnięto 19 I 1979, po 40 dniach akcji; I prz. klas. Wschodnia ściana Fitz Roya. całości (5.11+) Josh Wharton i Bean Bowers w lutym 2006; 13a. Diedro Directo (5.10 A3, 60°), Ben Gilmore, Brady Robinson, 2000, Zachodnia sciana Fitz Roya. wariant do Drogi Casarotto; 13b. Wariant Kearney-Knight (5.11 A0, 60°), Alan Kearney, Robert Knight, szczyt osiągnięto 24 XII 1984, popularny wariant do Drogi Casarotto; 13c. Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas (5.11, 60°, 450 m), Kurt Locher, Marco Pe- drini, 29 XII 1985, bez wejścia na szczyt, wariant do Drogi Casarotto; I prz. do szczytu Athol Whimp, Andrew Lindblade w roku 1993; 13d. Wariant w górnej części pn. filara, Jesse Huey i Toby Grohne, 18–20 I 2008; 14. Droga Polska (VI, A2, 900 m + 300 m), Wiesław Burzyński, Mirosław Fal- co-Dąsal, Michał Kochańczyk, Jacek Kozaczkiewicz, Piotr Lutyński, szczyt osiągnięto 24 XII 1984 po miesiącu akcji, bez powtórzenia; 1 15. Mate, Porro, y todo Lo de Mas – zach. ściana pn. filara (5.11, A1, 850 m tylko do szczytu pn. filara), 12h w styczniu 2008, Bean Bowers, Rolando Garibotti; 16. Mur Nord-Ouest (Droga Francuska pn. ścianą) 5.9, A2 1200 m, szczyt osią- gnięto 22 I 2002 po zaporęczowaniu 800 metrów, Jérôme Arpin, Lionel Po- uzadoux, Sylvain Empereur i Yannick Ponson; 17. Tehuelche (5.11, A1, 1200 m) Carlo Barbolini, Massimo Vonsi, Mauro Petronio, fot. Marcin Wernik Marcin fot. Angelo Pozzi, Mauro Rontini, Marco Sterni, bez wejścia na szczyt, 17 I 1985; 24 I prz. do szczytu Doug Byerly, Rolando Garibotti, 9 XII 1996 (33h akcji); 18.
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