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Stay connected with email, WHY DID • messaging and the Internet. YOU COME TO BOSTON? • Organize your entire world with If you came for a quick Calendar, Contacts, Tasks, Memos overview or a theme park and more. ride, then we’re probably not for you. If on the • Listen to MP3’s or use the built in other hand you came for a camera to capture life on the go. FUN FILLED tour to See the Best of Boston, • Connect with Bluetooth® wireless join us aboard the devices. Orange & Green Trolley. Edit Microsoft Word, Excel and • Boston’s most • comprehensive tour, Powerpoint files. fully narrated by our expert tour conductors • Built-in speaker phone and • Boston's most frequent conference calling service, with pick up and drop off at 16 convenient stops • Exclusive stops & * attraction discounts only $319.99 (after rebates) • Free reboarding free expedited delivery Kids Ride FREE* Ride 2nd Day for To take advantage of this special offer, please call us at: Only $10* “The Whites of their 617-338-2000 Eyes” Exhibit or Boston Harbor An exclusive offer from Panorama, The Official Guide to Boston. Cruise Included* 100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE in association with 617-269-7010 www.historictours.com * Certain restrictions apply. *Phone Price after $100 mail-in Rebate, offer subject to credit approval or deposit. Requires activation of a new line of service with a two year service agreement with the featured wireless provider. Activation and early termination America’s Most Trusted Sightseeing Company. fees apply. Not available in all areas, while supplies last, other terms and conditions apply, see on-line offer at Key West • St. Augustine • Savannah • San Diego • Boston • Washington DC www.specialpanoramaoffers.com for complete details. CONTENTS departments

12 currently in boston 12 18 24 shopping

30 maps of cambridge & boston 40 62 36 museums

FEATURES 40 cover story sightseeing What’s Hot in the 48 8 Boston Dining Scene restaurant guide We’ve got everything you need to know about the great dining city that is Boston—including the hottest restaurants, chefs, trends and more. boston in focus

46 P ANORAMA’S PICKS freedom trail Boston Black CURRENT EVENTS: 12 Food MUSEUMS: 36 Follow the red-brick path and wine events around town 14 exhibit at the Children’s Museum through 16 historic sights Human Rights Watch Film Festival SIGHTSEEING: 40 Old Town 22 Martin Luther King Jr. Day Trolley’s Boston Chocolate Tour events and the African-American DINING: 48 Boston’s Hot 59 Theatre Festival SHOPPING: Spots for Small Plates and the south end 24 Ralph Lauren’s new Rugby Cool Cocktails 49 HIGH 5s: The Hub’s hip arts and store on Newbury Street Winter Warmers dining destination

61 the north end A taste of Italy here in The Hub

ON THE COVER: 62 The Boston dining scene is hotter boston confidential than ever this winter, especially • The story behind the infamous with the abundance of eagerly Molasses Flood of 1919 anticipated food and wine events to help heat things up. 63 theatre district dining Great eating before or after the show

4 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 5 January 17–30, 2005

PANORAMA, Volume 54, Number 18 .omegawatches.com

Jerome Rosenfeld www Chairman Tim Montgomery President/Publisher

Christopher Wallenberg Editor Scott Roberto Art/Production Director Christine Celli Associate Editor Kristin K. Carr Design/Production Associate Elizabeth Bridleman Production Assistant Diana Aramburu Editorial Assistant

Jacolyn Ann Firestone Vice President, Advertising Dennis Lloyd Sales and Marketing Consultant Rita A. Fucillo Director of Marketing and Public Relations Patrick Manchon Senior Account Executive Jessica Barry, Tadd Rosenfeld Account Executives

Peter Ng Information Technology Manager George Ghareeb CINDY CRAWFORD. CHOICES. Technical Consultant Melissa J. O’Reilly Business Manager

PANORAMA is published bi-weekly by Jerome Press Publications Inc. Editorial and advertising offices at 332 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210. Telephone (617) 423-3400. Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission of the publisher. PANORAMA is a member of the Massachusetts Lodging Association, The Back Bay Association, The Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce, The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau, Cambridge Chamber of Commerce, the Greater Boston Concierge Association, the Harvard Square Business Association, the Newbury Street League and the Downtown Crossing Association. PANORAMA is audited by Business Publications Audit of Circulation, Inc., an independent audit bureau recognized by the American Association of Advertising Agencies.

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6 PANORAMA

Everything you need to know about the great dining city that is Boston—including the hottest restaurants, chefs, trends and more by Christine Celli and Christopher Wallenberg

uzz. It’s a hard thing to create and even harder to capture, particularly in our instant gratification, attention-deficit-disorder society. In Boston’s flour- Bishing dining scene, what’s hot and what’s not can change faster than J. Lo switches husbands. So to compile our Hot List, we’ve ferreted out those restau- rants, culinary artists and food trends that are on everyone’s lips—right now— but that have the staying power to endure beyond their buzz-worthy status.

HOT CUISINE: ITALIAN Once upon a time, if you wanted great Italian food, you went straight to the North End. But now there are celebrated Italian eateries all over town, from Via Matta in Park Square to Teatro in the Theater District, and two newcomers have further stoked this fire. Umbria (295 Franklin St., 617-338-1000), which opened with a splash in the Financial District last fall, focuses on the nuances of the oft-over- looked Umbria region of Italy. The impeccable team of Marisa Iocco and Rita D’Angelo execute the more robust, meat-centric Umbrian dishes for hungry diners. in On the other hand, La Morra (48 Boylston St., Brookline, 617-739-0007) reminds us that Tuscany is still a lovely place to be—except perhaps for Atkins dieters. Reunite with pasta made to perfection on a 1940s-era machine or savor the succu- lent roasted meats that have made this northern region of Italy a popular refer- ence for Italian-American chefs for decades.

HOT CONCEPTS: SIBLING RIVALRY and MERITAGE Beantown’s now got its own version of TV’s “The Iron Chef.” Brothers Bob and David Kinkead square off in a battle of recipes at Sibling Rivalry (525 Tremont St., 617-338-5338), a high-concept new eatery in the South End. What’s the hook? Each brother creates a dish based around a particular ingredient—be it beets, ginger, clams, cod or whatever else they decide. The results are tantalizing. While Bob uses duck confit to enliven a salad of red cabbage, endive, apple and Roquefort, David fashions an entree of laquered duck meat kissed with port and accompanied by chestnuts, sauteed quince and roasted vegetables. This is one familial food fight you won’t want to miss. Whether you’re an oenophile, a wine novice who wants to learn more or just a fan of the critically acclaimed, hit movie Sideways, you’re sure to love Meritage at the Boston Harbor Hotel (Rowes Wharf, 617-439-3995). Nationally renowned chef Daniel Bruce has created an ingenious wine and food pairing menu that helps illu- minate and enhance the flavors of both. Diners choose a wine category—sparklers, light whites, fruity reds, robust reds, etc.—then pick one of four corresponding dishes. Both small and large plates are available for each selection, so patrons can experience a number of combinations in one meal.

HOT FRENCH: PIERROT BISTROT In 2004, the Hub bid au revoir to two classics in French cuisine—the landmark restaurant Maison Robert, and the legendary chef who brought French cooking into our homes for decades, Julia Child. Fortunately, just when we feared the Eiffel

8 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 9 Sure, celebrity sightings in HOT CHEFS After nearly 20 ment for the mouth,” these small, delightful bites, Beantown are hardly HOT HEALTH FOOD: LUCY'S GABRIEL years honing his or mini-appetizers, are meant to whet the palate commonplace, but Fad diets come and go, but some nutri- FRASCA and kitchen skills before the meal begins or cleanse it between when they do happen, tional suggestions persevere. Keep it fresh, PINO MAFFEO under Boston’s courses. And the amuse bouche seems to be Noir (at the Charles keep it low fat. Which is why the varied top chefs— popping up everywhere these days. Of course, it’s Hotel, Cambridge, 617- menu at Lucy’s (242 Harvard St., from Gordon the whim of the chef that will determine what 661-8010) seems to be Brookline, 617-232-LUCY)—which Hammersley to Michael Schlow—Gabriel appears at your table. But Pino Maffeo at L (see the locale. We’re includes everything from pizza and french Frasca (pictured below) finally got his chance sidebar) seems to be having the most fun with guessing it’s the dark, fries to slow-cooked pork and an artisan to shine as executive chef of Spire (refer to the concept. Recent visits produced a shot of sultry atmosphere and cheese plate—gets our vote for the health- listing, page 53). Combining French, Italian tomato water topped with a swizzle stick of pro- HOT SPOT classically cool libations that conscious. By preparing its food without and Spanish influences, his enthusiasm for sciutto and cappuccino-flavored cotton candy. TO SPY A allow patrons to feel Hollywood butter or cream, Lucy’s lets patrons fulfill cooking bursts from his menu through creative CELEBRITY chic while keeping a low profile. all their cravings without feeling like dishes like the diminutive Spire clam bake—a HOT DESSERTS: NOIR The late-night menu created by they’re denying themselves a thing. first course that packs the punch of the full KIDDIE TREATS FOR GROWN-UPS chef Jody Adams of Rialto entree; Maine diver scallops served in a With the non-stop deluge of war, politics and doesn’t hurt either. President Bill HOT PRE/POST THEATER: clementine-almond milk with braised endive; natural disasters, Beantown’s chefs seem to be Clinton certainly appreciated Noir’s virtues when he TEATRO and B&G OYSTERS and the succulent, maple-brined pork chop. retreating from all the bad news and getting in hosted a Democratic National Convention party A few things are key when it comes to Best of all, Frasca rarely lets the menu speak touch with their inner child. Look no further and invited a who’s who of movie stars, including finding the best spot for dinner before for itself, making trips around his dining room than their playful, whimsical dessert ideas— Glenn Close, Ben Affleck and John Cusack. theater: location, convenience and cost. to field questions—all with the big grin of a with grown-up twists, of course. The aphro- But since no one likes to sacrifice quality proud new papa. disiac milkshake at Union Bar and Grill in the to satisfy those goals, we’re happy to report Meanwhile, L restaurant’s talented Pino South End (1357 Washington St., 617-423-0555) Tower would be the next to go, we spied the some restaurants embody all four qualities. If Maffeo has helped re-invigorate the former is a retro-concoction with a kick-start of Godiva retro-esque menu of this new eatery in Beacon you’re in the Theater District, look no further Café Louis, located inside the luxe clothing liqueur that you drink through a big, fat straw. Hill (272 Cambridge St., 617-725-8855), full of than Teatro (refer to listing, page 56). Heading boutique Louis Boston (refer to listing, page At Spire (see sidebar), the Manhattan float is dishes like coq au vin, chocolate mousse and to the new theaters in the South End? Try B&G 54). Both audacious and refined and trained awash in bourbon-flavored ice cream, home- duck a l’orange. Better still, the eatery is the Oysters (550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550). Both under the acclaimed Patricia Yeo, Maffeo has made bing cherry soda and vermouth whipped creation of Jacky Robert, scion of the Robert offer a variety of quick bites at reasonable crafted a menu that isn’t exactly fusion, but cream. Meanwhile, the tattooed, motorcycle-rid- family. Seems Julia is still shouting “bon prices as well as flavors you’ll savor well comes pretty darn close, melding a yen for ing chef Robert Fathman continues to push the appetit” from the heavens. through the first act. Asian and other Eastern ingredients and envelope at Anthem with the fried twinkie, an spices with a keen sense actual Hostess treat topped with berry coulis. HOT SUSHI: OSUSHI HOT PRE/POST CELTICS: ANTHEM of classic French and Boston may be known around the world for its Finally, jocks can combine date night with Italian techniques. HOT GENRE: STEAKHOUSES seafood restaurants, but when it comes to sushi, sports and still keep their pride thanks to the Witness the Kobe There seems to be no limit to Bostonians’ han- the Hub usually bows to our California counter- stand-out North Station-area eatery Anthem beef-wrapped potato kering for red meat these days. Exhibit #1: parts. So here’s hoping the arrival of this sleek (138 Portland St., 617-523-8383), which com- spring roll, surround- Anthony Ambrose, the city’s king of Asian-influ- little sushi bar marks the beginning of a raw bines the efficiency and fun of a sidewalk ed by small pools of enced fusion cuisine, closed the doors on his fish craze in our seafood-loving burg. Located in sausage vendor with some outstanding, upscale miso dipping sauce acclaimed Ambrosia on Huntington last year to the Westin Hotel across from Copley Place (refer cuisine. That means Dude Food like meatloaf and smoked open Blackfin Chophouse and Raw Bar (116 to listing, page 57) with a new location down- and beer-braised beef stew prepared in a way chipolte. Or Huntington Ave., 617-247-2400), a paean to town at 101 Arch Street, this cool eatery dishes that won’t induce heartburn. Better still, the order the surf and turf. Already bursting with enough up some of the freshest sushi around. But it’s menu includes smaller plates like a Cuban steak special chophouses to feed a small country, Boston the innovative maki rolls—creative combos like sandwich and a poached pear and brie salad for and you’ll recently welcomed another powerbrokers- crystal rainbow (eel, avocado, cucumber and those looking for a quick bite before tip-off. You enjoy one of haven, the Smith and Wollensky franchise, tobiko, topped with tuna, sake and white fish) can also head there after the game for innova- the most which moved into the historic Castle at and TNT (baked spicy salmon, lettuce, avocado tive cocktails in its classy, plush velvet lounge. robust, ten- Park Plaza (101 Arlington St., 617-423-1112). and cucumber, atop homemade hot sesame oil)— der pieces of Later this year, the country’s biggest steak- that will make you forget all about that great HOT TREND: AMUSE-BOUCHE beef you’ve house chain, Ruth’s Chris, takes over the for- sushi you had on your last visit out West. A French culinary tradition meaning “amuse- ever had. mer Maison Robert digs at Old City Hall.

10 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 11 CURRENTLY

WINING and Dining by Scott Roberto hat could be better during the cold New England winter than heading indoors to indulge Win some fine food and drink? If that’s your idea of the best way to keep warm, check out the 20th annual Anthony Spinazzola Foundation Gala Festival of Food & Wine at the World Trade Center Boston on January 28 at 7:30 p.m., which promises cuisine from more than 130 of the city’s best kitchens as well as vino from 90 international wine makers. Also on the menu at the World Trade Center is the Boston Wine Expo (above), the largest event of its kind in the U.S., hosting 440 wineries from 13 countries with tastings of thousands of vintages on January 29 & 30. Meanwhile, the Boston Harbor Hotel’s 16th annual Boston Wine Festival features the legendary wine and food pairing skills of chef Daniel Bruce, joined by wine experts from around the world in a series of tastings, lectures and dinners through April 8. Upcoming highlights include the “Best of the Best” feasts hosted by the Quarterly Review of Wines on January 19 & 20 and the Meritage Madness dinners January 24–27. Refer to listings, page 21.

I Classical Music 12 CLASSICAL Comedy 14 Boston Symphony Orchestra, Symphony Hall, 301 Mass. Ave., 617- 266-1200. Tickets: $27–95. Renowned throughout the world for its dis- Conventions & Expos 16 tinctive sound, impressive range and virtuosity, the Boston Symphony Dance 16 Orchestra, led by new music director James Levine, celebrates its 124th N year in a season that brings fresh perspectives to a well-known reper- Film 16 toire while offering insights into the future of classical music. Jan 19 at Galleries 17 7:30 p.m. (open rehearsal), Jan 20, 22 & 25 at 8 p.m., Jan 21 at 1:30 p.m.—Conductor James Conlon, who champions music of composers Kids Corner 18 oppressed by the Nazi regime in the mid-20th century, introduces Viktor D Live Music 18 Ullmann’s piano concerto to the BSO repertoire with American pianist Garrick Ohlsson as soloist; Jan 27 at 10:30 a.m. (open rehearsal), Jan Nightclubs 20 27–29 at 8 p.m.—Conductor David Zinman leads the BSO and guest Opera 20 pianist Richard Goode in a program of Gandolfi, Bartók and Mussorgsky. E Special Events 21 David Daniels and Martin Katz, Bank of America Celebrity Series, Sports 22 Jordan Hall, 617-482-6661. Jan 28 at 8 p.m. Tickets: $32–52. American countertenor David Daniels sings a program featuring Mozart, Theater 22 Faure and Handel with accompaniment from pianist Martin Katz.

Tickets 23 Emmanuel Music, Emmanuel Church, 15 Newbury St., 617-536-3356. X Transportation 23 Sun at 10 a.m. Admission: free will offering. Conductor Craig Smith leads the Orchestra and Chorus of Emmanuel Music in the Weekly Bach Cantata.

12 PANORAMA CURRENTLY MOVING Pictures by Scott Roberto hile the latest Hollywood entertainment Woffers an escape from reality, the fifth annu- al Human Rights Watch International Film Festival takes an unflinching look at the often harsh world in which we live. Screening at the Coolidge Corner Theatre and the Museum of Fine Arts from January 27–February 3, this mix of doc- umentaries and dramatic films illuminates the ever- relevant issues surrounding war, oppression and justice at home and abroad. One of the most mov- ing examples is the opening night film Born into Brothels, an acclaimed documentary relaying the tale of outcast children born to Calcutta prostitutes who are given cameras to chronicle their world. Other notables include the documentary Deadline, which explores the debate over the death penalty in the U.S., and the Pakistani film Silent Waters (2003) (pictured), which tells the story of a mother dealing aters with a son who joins a group of Islamic fundamen-

Silent W talists. The festival closes with David O. Russell’s 1999 film Three Kings. Refer to listing, page 16. still from

From the Top, Jordan Hall, New England Conservatory, 30 Paquito D’Rivera and the Assads, Bank of America Celebrity Gainsborough St., 617-536-2412. Jan 23 at 2 p.m. Tickets: $10–15. The Series, Sanders Theatre, 45 Quincy St., Cambridge, 617-482-6661. Boston-based hit public radio showcase features young classical musi- Jan 29 at 8 p.m. Tickets: $33–48. Sérgio and Odair Assad, the cians, hosted by renowned pianist Christopher O’Riley. A piano trio, string world’s most beloved guitar duo, team up with Cuban clarinet super- duo and what may be the first bagpipe soloist on Jordan Hall’s stage star and six-time Grammy Award winner Paquito D’Rivera for the highlight the weekend’s shows, which are recorded for WGBH radio. dazzling program Dances from the New World.

Handel and Haydn Society, Symphony Hall, 301 Mass. Ave., 617- Pro Arte Chamber Orchestra, Sanders Theatre, 45 Quincy St., 266-3605. Jan 21 at 8 p.m., Jan 23 at 3 p.m. Tickets: $26–60. Jazz Cambridge, 617-661-7067. Jan 23 at 3 p.m. Tickets: $9–42. One of duo Gary Burton and Makoto Ozone join the Handel and Haydn only four cooperative orchestras in the country, Pro Arte celebrates Society Orchestra for “Virtuosi Jazz,” a performance of works from the 60th birthday of conductor Isaiah Jackson with its Sounds of their Grammy-nominated CD, “Virtuosi.” Handel and Haydn music Peace concert featuring Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos 1–6. director Grant Llewellyn conducts the program which includes works by Scarlatti, Couperin, Ravel, Rachmaninov as well as a finale with Tokyo String Quartet, Bank of America Celebrity Series, Jordan both groups heating up the stage with Darius Milhaud’s 1923 jazz Hall, 617-482-6661. Jan 21 at 8 p.m. Tickets: $43–53. The Tokyo ballet The Creation of the World. String Quartet’s energetic and incisive style, its unerring musician- ship, its willingness to take artistic risks and its perfectly unified Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 280 The Fenway, 1-866- sound have earned the group its rightful standing as one of the 468-7619. Tickets: $10–20, children $5. Jan 23 at 1:30 p.m.— world’s leading chamber music ensembles. The group performs on Borromeo String Quartet performs the complete string quartets of “The Paganini Quartet,” a collection of renowned Stradivarius instru- Arnold Schoenberg, Part I; Jan 29 at 7 p.m., Jan 30 at 1:30 p.m.— ments named for legendary virtuoso Niccolò Paganini, who acquired Composer Portraits, the Music of John Zorn. and played them during the 19th century.

Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, Bank of America Celebrity Series, Jordan Hall, 617-482-6661. Jan 29 at 8 p.m. Tickets: $36–56. This COMEDY unique ensemble—recognized for its outstanding sound and its ded- ication to building a contemporary repertoire for the chamber orches- The Comedy Connection, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall Marketplace, tra—performs the music of Erkki-Sven Tuur, Mendelssohn as well as 617-248-9700. Cover and times may vary. Call for full schedule. the Boston premiere of Daniel Schnyder’s Concerto for Winds joined Named “The Best Comedy Club in the Country” (USA Today), this by 22-year-old pianist Jonathan Biss. venue has featured national and local stand-up acts such as Wendy

14 PANORAMA CURRENTLY Liebman, Chris Rock, Rosie O’Donnell and Dave Chappelle. Jan 17 & Dental Congress event, concert with Keith Lockhart and the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Avenue of the Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 24 at 8 p.m.—Amateur Showcase hosted by Kevin Knox, tickets: Pops Esplanade Orchestra. 617-267-9300. Screenings Thu–Sun, call for showtimes and com- $12; Jan 18 & 25 at 8 p.m.—Paul Nardizzi, tickets: $12; Jan 19 at 8 plete schedule. Tickets: $9; students & seniors $8. The Museum of p.m.—Tony V, tickets: $12; Jan 20 & 27 at 8:30 p.m.—Frank Santos Hynes Convention Center, 900 Boylston St., 617-954-2000. Fine Arts’ Film Program has grown to become one of the nation’s “The R-Rated Hypnotist,” tickets: $15; Jan 21 at 8 and 10:15 p.m., Jan 17—American Library Association; Jan 27–29—Yankee finest exhibitors of contemporary international cinema, restored clas- Jan 22 at 7, 9 and 11:15 p.m.—The “I’m Rich Biatch Tour” featuring Dental Congress. sics and premieres of American independent films. Now showing: Charlie Murphy, Bill Burr and Donnell Rawlings from the highly suc- Jan 19–30—Susan Sontag’s Favorite Japanese Films; Jan cessful “Chappelle’s Show” on Comedy Central, tickets: $24; Jan 28 20–23—Mercano the Martian; beginning Jan 28—Screenings for at 8 and 10:15 p.m., Jan 29 at 6, 8:15 and 10:30 p.m.—Kevin DANCE the Human Rights Watch International Film Festival. Nealon, tickets: $25; Jan 30 at 7 p.m.—Rich Ceisler, tickets: $12. Seán Curran Company, Tsai Performance Center, Boston Mugar Omni Theater, Museum of Science, 617-723-2500 or 617- The Comedy Studio at the Hong Kong, 1236 Mass. Ave., Harvard University, 685 Commonwealth Ave., 617-482-6661. Performances: 333-FILM. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: Square, Cambridge, 617-661-6507. Doors open at 7:30 p.m.; nightly Jan 22 at 7:30 p.m. & Jan 23 at 3 p.m. Tickets: $28. Known for his $7.50; seniors $5.50; children (3–11) $6.50. Discounted admission shows begin at 8 p.m. Call for complete schedule. Cover: $7–10.A wit, intelligence, ingenuity and uncanny physical humor, Boston for showtimes after 6 p.m. This IMAX theater presents larger-than- place where fresh talent is discovered and headliners experiment. native Seán Curran has brilliantly invigorated the world of modern life images on a domed screen five stories high. Now showing: dance, first making his mark as a principal with the Bill T. Forces of Nature; Roar: Lions of the Kalahari; Extreme. Dick Doherty’s Comedy Vault, Remington’s Restaurant, 124 Jones/Arnie Zane Dance Company. Now, as a choreographer and Boylston St., 617-482-0110, call for reservations and complete sched- artistic director, he constantly seeks to titillate, intrigue and entertain Simons IMAX Theater, New England Aquarium, Central Wharf, 1-866- ule. Showtimes: Thu–Sat at 9 p.m.; open mic Sun at 9 p.m. Cover: audiences with his richly poetic, purely original style. 815-4629. Open Sun–Thu 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Fri & Sat 10 a.m.–9:45 $10–25. Located in an actual bank vault downstairs in Remington’s p.m. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $8.95; seniors Eating and Drinking Exchange, this club features Boston’s top comics. & children (3–11) $6.95. This recent addition to the New England FILM Aquarium is the first large-format theater in Boston to have 3D viewing Improv Asylum, 216 Hanover St., 617-263-6887. www.improv capability. Now showing: Sharks; Aliens of the Deep; Into the Deep. asylum.com. Showtimes: Wed & Thu at 8 p.m.; Fri at 9 p.m.; Sat at 8 The Brattle Theatre, 40 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-876-6837. Call and 10 p.m. Tickets: $15–20, dinner packages available. Every Sat at for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $8.50; matinees Somerville Theatre, 55 Davis Square, Somerville, 617-354-4466 midnight—The Midnight Show promises to be quick-witted, contro- $7.50; seniors & children $5.50. Classic, cutting-edge and world cin- or 617-876-4275. Now showing: I Heart Huckabees, Ray, Garden versial and hilarious; Wed–Sat—Lies, 1/2 Truths and the American ema with a different double feature almost every day. Now showing: State, Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason. Special event: Jan 22 at 8 Way features a prison duet with Martha Stewart and Saddam through Jan 20—Donkey Skin (Peau d’Ane); Jan 21–27—Purple p.m.—Alfred Hitchcocks’s Blackmail features live music by the Alloy Hussein, obnoxious supermarket clerks who only want you to “Press Butterfly and Dr. Strangelove; Jan 28—Eraserhead; Jan 29— Orchestra, tickets: $17.50. OK” and a song about passing the blame around. Mulholland Drive; Jan 30—Blue Velvet and Wild at Heart.

ImprovBoston, Back Alley Theater, 1253 Cambridge St., Cambridge, Coolidge Corner Theatre, 290 Harvard Ave., Brookline, 617-734- GALLERIES 617-576-1253. www.improvboston.com. Showtimes: Wed at 8 p.m.; 2500. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $8.50; Thu & Fri at 8 and 10 p.m.; Sat at 6, 8 and 10 p.m.; Sun at 7 p.m. Cover: members $5.50; seniors & children $5.50. This independent movie Barbara Krakow Gallery, 10 Newbury St., 617-262-4490. $5–12. This comedy troupe features sketch comedy, games, original house screens recent indie films, as well as the classics. Special Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. The Barbara Krakow Gallery attracts top music and audience participation. Wed—The Hump; Thu—UnNatural events: Jan 24—WGBH and Facing History & Ourselves screens contemporary artists from around the world, showcasing work that Stage Selection and The Great & Secret Comedy Show; Fri—Carol Lombard Live! Auschwitz: Inside the Nazi State; beginning Jan 28—Screenings for focuses on minimalism and conceptualism. Special exhibit: Sets, and TheatreSports; Sat—ImprovBoston Family Show and ImprovBoston the Human Rights Watch International Film Festival. featuring Tara Donovan, Carroll Dunham, Donald Judd, William Mainstage; Sun—Sgt. Culpepper’s Improvisational Jamboree. Kentridge, Sol LeWitt, Brice Marden, Sarah Morris, Julian Opie, Human Rights Watch International Film Festival, Screenings at Robert Ryman, Fred Sandback, Richard Tuttle and Terry Winters. Spotlight Jimmy Tingle’s Off Broadway, 255 Elm St., Davis Square, the Coolidge Corner Theater and the Museum of Fine Arts. Call the- Somerville, 617-591-1616. www.jtoffbroadway.com. Founded by aters for showtimes, complete schedule and ticket prices. Jan Bromfield Art Gallery, 27 Thayer St., 617-451-305. Wed–Sat YOUR GUIDE TO NEW ENGLAND THEATRE comic, actor and writer Jimmy Tingle, this multi-use venue features 27–31. This festival returns to Boston for its fifth year, bringing a mix noon–5 p.m. Boston’s oldest artist-run gallery features shows by both established and aspiring performers. Jan 21 & 22 at 7:30 p.m.— of challenging and provocative documentary and dramatic films on members of the cooperative, while exhibitions by visiting artists are An intimate live performance from comedian Marc Maron, from Air human rights issues around the world. Question and answer ses- selected by current members. Special exhibits: Natalie Loveless, America Radio’s “Morning Sedition,” tickets: $20; Jan 28 & 29 at sions with visiting filmmakers provide deeper insight into the issues (Co)Operation and Christopher Gardner, Lobbies. HEELOCK AMILY HEATRE 7:30 p.m.—75 Laughs: An Evening with Jonathan Katz, tickets: $25. raised in such films as: Goodbye Hungaria; Juvies; The Kite; W F T Repatriation and others. Opening night: Jan 27 at 7:30 p.m. at the Childs Gallery, 169 Newbury St., 617-266-1108. Tue–Fri 9 a.m.–6 RODGERS AND HAMMERSTEIN’S BELOVED MUSICAL Nick’s Comedy Stop, 100 Warrenton St., 617-423-2900. Thu at Museum of Fine Arts—Born into Brothels, children born to Bombay’s p.m.; Mon & Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m. The longest-running of the commer- The Sound of Music 8:30 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 8:45 p.m. Cover: $10–15. Nick’s is the city’s brothel workers are given and taught to use cameras. While record- cial Newbury Street galleries, Childs has one of the largest inventories longest-running comedy club. Jan 20–22—Mike Donovan, Boston’s ing their surroundings, their own lives are transformed; Jan 30 at of oil paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and sculpture in the FEBRUARY 4–27, 2005 best sports comic; Jan 27–29—Rich Ceisler from Comedy Central. 12:30 and 6 p.m. at the Coolidge Corner Theatre—Deadline, United States. Special exhibits: begins Jan 17—Edward Page and 617-879-2300 • www.wheelock.edu/wft Northwestern University journalism students uncover evidence that His Circle; Leo Meissner Drawings; Lithographs of Gordon Grant. Located in the historic Fenway neighborhood many inmates on Death Row are actually innocent, prompting Illinois CONVENTIONS & EXPOS governor George Ryan to order special clemency hearings for all. Gallery NAGA, 67 Newbury St., 617-267-9060. Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 Refer to story, page 14. p.m. Gallery NAGA specializes in studio furniture and paintings by New Bayside Expo & Conference Center, 200 Mount Vernon St., 617- England artists, and also exhibits works by contemporary photographers, SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION. 474-6000. Through Jan 23—Northeast Camping & RV Show, tick- Loews Boston Common, corner of Tremont and Avery streets, printmakers and sculptors. Special exhibit through Jan 29: The eclectic ets: $8, children $4; Jan 28–30—Boston Home Show, tickets: $8; 617-423-3499 or 617-333-FILM. Call for showtimes, complete eye of Meredyth Hyatt Moses selects painting, glass, clay and more. TO ADVERTISE, CALL Jan 29 & 30—New England Motorcycle Extravaganza, tickets: $15. schedule and ticket prices. This state-of-the-art cineplex is the JESSICA BARRY AT 617-423-3400 largest downtown movie theater in New England, featuring Howard Yezerski Gallery, 14 Newbury St., 3rd Floor, 617-262-0550. Boston Convention & Exhibition Center, 415 Summer St., 617- 4,500 stadium seats and 19 oversized screens spanning 100,000 Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Features contemporary art, including photog- 954-2400. Jan 17—MLK Day Annual Breakfast; Jan 30—Yankee square feet. raphy, sculpture and prints. Special exhibit: Paul Shambroom: Meetings.

16 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 17

CURRENTLY International Poster Gallery, 205 Newbury St., 617-375-0076. specializes in American artists from the 18th, 19th and early 20th Dick’s Last Resort, 55 Huntington Ave., 617-267-8080, www.dicks $20; Jan 21 at 9 p.m.—Bob Schneider with Aslyn, tickets: $15; Jan www.internationalposter.com. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 centuries. Special exhibit: Sunlight and Shadow: American lastresort.com. No cover. Call for complete performance schedule. 22 at 9 p.m.—Sudden Ease with Parker House & Theory, Passenger p.m. This internationally recognized fine art poster gallery displays Impressionism in New England and Abroad. Live music daily from classic rock acts and cover bands, 74 kinds of and The Dij, tickets: $10; Jan 28 at 9 p.m.—Kristin Hersh with Ben original vintage posters from the 1890s through the post-World War II beer and dining options that include buckets of ribs, shrimp, lobster, Weaver, tickets: $12–14; Jan 29 at 9 p.m.—Apollo Sunshine with modern masters. Special exhibit: Naught and Nice, featuring posters crab cakes, chicken and crab legs. Lake Trout and Officer May, tickets: $10–12. depicting the pleasures of Paris from the Gay 1890s and London KIDS CORNER from the Roaring ’20s. The Middle East, 472 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-864-EAST. Regattabar, third floor of The Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St., Cambridge, Boston Public Library, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, 617-536- Doors open at 8 p.m., show starts at 9 p.m. unless otherwise noted. 617-661-5099. Call for complete schedule and ticket information. Jan L’Attitude Gallery, 218 Newbury St., 617-927-4400. Tue–Sat 10 5400. Refer to listing in Sightseeing section. The first publicly supported Call for complete schedule. Cover: $8–20. Whether Upstairs, 18 at 7:30 p.m.—Francisco Mela Latin Quartet; Jan 20 & 21 at 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun & Mon noon–5 p.m. Features contemporary sculp- municipal library in the world hosts many activities and special programs Downstairs or in the Corner, this entertainment club showcases the and 10 p.m.—Bill Charlap Trio; Jan 22 & 23 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.— ture, crafts and art for the home, garden and commercial environ- for children, including live performances, storytelling, interactive computer best alternative and indie rock bands in town. Jan 20—The Human Entrain; Jan 27 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.—Leo Nocentelli of The Meters and ments. The gallery also boasts an outdoor sculpture garden. Over 75 activities and films. Jan 21 & 28 at 10:15 a.m.—Reading Readiness, Marvels featuring The Enigma with special guest Katzen; Jan 22— Stanton Moore of Galactic; Jan 28 & 29 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.—Olu Dara. U.S. and international artists are represented in various mediums, with various educational activities from arts and crafts to story reading. M.I.C. presents “We Comin,’” a hip-hop showcase featuring Lyrical including glass, ceramics, wood, stone, mixed media and textiles. and Invasion; Jan 26—Lucia Lie; Jan 27—Secret Machines and Sanders Theatre, 45 Quincy St., Cambridge, 617-496-2222. Jan Special event: January Sale, entire collection reduced 10–50 percent. The Children’s Museum, Museum Wharf, 300 Congress St., 617- Moving Units; Jan 28 & 29—Steve Kimock Band, tickets: $25. 24 at 7 p.m.—Bright Eyes, performing songs from I’m Wide Awake, 426-8855. Refer to listing in Museums. Daily organized activities in the It’s Morning, with CocoRosie and Tilly and the Wall, tickets: $26.50. Nielsen Gallery, 179 Newbury St., 617-266-4835. Tue–Sat 10 Art Studio, Play Space and KidStage such as music and movement, Paradise Lounge, 969 Commonwealth Ave., 617-562-8814. Call a.m.–5:30 p.m. Renowned for its fine collection of contemporary finger puppet making and kitchen science. Special events: Jan 17 for complete schedule. The lounge is a vibrant bar and restaurant Somerville Theatre, 55 Davis Square, Somerville, 617-625-4088. paintings, drawings and sculptures. Special exhibits: through Jan from 10 a.m.–5 p.m.—Martin Luther King, Jr. Day Celebration; Jan 21 dedicated to the arts with a passion for music and all it encompass- Jan 22 at 8 p.m.—Alloy Orchestra performs live to Alfred 22—Jake Berthot, Survey Exhibition: 1968–Present; begins Jan & 28 from 3–5 p.m., Jan 22 & 23 and 29 & 30 from 2–4 p.m.— es. Sun—Static, Boston’s premiere local rock showcase; Mon— Hitchcock’s Blackmail, tickets: $17.50; Jan 29 at 8 p.m.—Habib 29—Laurel Hughes: New Work. Zoom Zone, activities inspired by and developed in creation with the open mic night; Thu—The Bubble Up, featuring DJs spinning reggae Koite, tickets: $24.50–29.50. popular PBS-TV show; Jan 29 from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. and Jan 30 from and dancehall; Sat—A night of Motown, jazz and hip-hop. Pepper Gallery, 38 Newbury St., 617-236-4495. Tue–Fri 10 1–4 p.m.—Weather Weekend. Scullers Jazz Club, DoubleTree Guest Suites Hotel, 400 Soldiers a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sat 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Committed to presenting con- Paradise Rock Club, 967 Commonwealth Ave., 617-562-8800. Call Field Road, 617-562-4111. Showtimes: Tue–Thu at 8 and 10 p.m.; temporary representational and abstract work by living artists, the Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. Refer to for complete schedule. Intimate setting with a big sound, Paradise is Fri & Sat at 8 and 10:30 p.m.; Sun at 7 and 9 p.m. unless otherwise gallery rotates its exhibitions every five weeks to represent different listing in Museums. The fine arts are not just for adults. Special activi- one of Boston’s favorite rock clubs. All shows 18+ unless otherwise noted. Tickets: $15–65. Combination tickets include dinner and members of the artistic community, both established and upcoming. ties: Mon–Fri at 3:30 p.m.—Children’s Room, free gallery and work- noted. Jan 18 at 8 p.m.—Jimmy Chamberlain Complex, tickets: show. Jan 18—Sai Ghose Trio, tickets: $15, $53 with dinner; Jan Special exhibit: Peter Smuts, All Fun and Games. shop program for children ages 6 to 12, offering active exploration of $10; Jan 19 at 8 p.m.—Sister Hazel with Graham Colton and Drew 20—Frank Morgan, tickets: $20, $58 with dinner; Jan 21 & 22— the MFA’s collection through art projects, drama, poetry and music; Tue Copeland, tickets: $16; Jan 20 at 9 p.m.—Super Diamond, tickets: Sherrie Maricle and the DIVA Jazz Orchestra featuring Marlena Shaw, Photographic Resource Center, Boston University, 832 Common- & Wed at 3:30 p.m.—Books Bring Art Alive, explores the MFA collec- wealth Ave., 617-353-0700. Tue, Wed, Fri from 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu tions using picture books, gallery activities, and adult/child art projects. from 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat & Sun from noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3. PRC exhibitions and educational programs are guided by a philosophi- Puppet Showplace Theatre, 32 Station St., Brookline, 617-731- cal inquiry into the intersection of photography with other aesthetic, 6400. The first puppetry center in New England presents the magical professional and critical discourses. Special exhibit through Jan 23— world of puppet theater to a broad community, enlightening audi- Contemporary Vernacular, a group show featuring contemporary ences of all ages. Tickets: $8.50. Jan 19 & 20 at 10:30 a.m.— responses to vernacular, or everyday photography, including family, Cinderella: A Woodland Fairy Princess; Jan 22 & 23 at 1 and 3 found, anonymous and domestic imagery and themes. p.m.—Peter and The Wolf; Jan 26 & 27 at 10:30 a.m.—The Singing Turtle; Jan 29 & 30 at 1 and 3 p.m.—Eeyore’s Birthday. Pucker Gallery, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Featuring works by Israeli, American and internationally known contemporary artists. Named by the Boston LIVE MUSIC Phoenix as one of the best art galleries in the city: “You can make a case for the Pucker Gallery as Boston’s best gallery—though it’s really Axis, 13 Landsdowne St., 617-262-2437. This popular nightclub more like a wonderful miniature museum.” Special exhibit: Phil hosts rock and pop musical acts prior to evening dance nights with Rogers: From Past to Future. DJs. Jan 27 at 6:30 p.m.—The Early November with Engine Down, Days Away and A Thorn For Every Heart, tickets: $13; Jan 28 at 7 Robert Klein Gallery, 38 Newbury St., 617-267-7997. Mon–Fri 11 p.m.—Frickin’ A, tickets: $12. a.m.–5 p.m. Devoted to fine art photography from the 19th century through the present day, the gallery has featured works by such well- Bob the Chef’s Restaurant and Jazz Cafe, 604 Columbus Ave., known artists as Ansel Adams, Diane Arbus and Sebastiao Salgado. 617-536-6204. Cover varies. Call for complete performance sched- Special exhibit: Beth Yarnelle Edwards. ule. Casual dining and live entertainment. Enjoy soul and jazz from local performers Thu–Sat at 7 or 7:30 p.m. Kick back with a leisurely Society of Arts and Crafts, 175 Newbury St., 617-266-1810. jazz brunch Sun 10 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest non-profit crafts organization in the country (more than 100 years old) special- Club Passim, 47 Palmer St., Cambridge, 617-492-7679. Call for full izes in contemporary American crafts. The jewelry, furniture, glass and schedule. Tickets: $12–14. This intimate coffeehouse in Harvard Square ceramics range from cutting edge to traditional and from functional to was a starting place for legendary folk icons such as Joan Baez and Bob sculptural. Special exhibit through Jan 23—Our Cups Runneth Over. Dylan. Jan 21 at 8 p.m.—Barbara Kessler and Tom Kimmel, tickets: $15; Jan 22 at 7 and 10 p.m., Jan 23 at 7 p.m.—Christopher Williams’ Vose Galleries, 238 Newbury St., 617-536-6176. Mon–Fri 8:30 CD Release with Justin Rosolino, tickets: $15; Jan 28 at 8 p.m.—Steve a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Established in 1841, Vose Forbert, tickets: $20; Jan 29 at 8 p.m.—Greg Greenway, tickets: $15; Galleries—the oldest family-owned art gallery in the United States— Jan 30 at 7:30 p.m.—Andrew Kerr and Paul & Storm, tickets: $12.

18 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 19 CURRENTLY tickets: $26, $64 with dinner; Jan 25—Julia & Zerounian Ensemble, Boston’s largest entertainment complexes, this fun and diverse club guardian who wants to marry her, but she has her eye on a serenading Wines: Best of the Best, culled from the magazine’s annual list, tickets: tickets: $18, $56 with dinner; Jan 26—Steve Oliver, tickets: $18, attracts over a million people a year. Features 50 pool tables, 200 student, who just happens to be a Count in disguise. Along comes the $210; Jan 24–26—Meritage Madness, a spectacular dinner with a $56 with dinner; Jan 27—Dominique Eade Quartet, tickets: $18, high-tech games, blackjack for fun, six full bars, Lucky Strike Lanes meddling Figaro, the town barber (and surgeon, wigmaker, gardener blind tasting of the best 2001 vintage Meritage wines, including Cain $56 with dinner; Jan 28 & 29—Larry Harlow & The Latin Jazz on the third floor and full-service dining and late-night dancing at and pharmacist), and suddenly you have all the ingredients for comic Five, Insignia and Dominus, tickets: $210. Refer to story, page 12. Encounter, tickets: $22, $60 with dinner. Tequila Rain on the first floor. Proper dress required. confusion and mayhem in this beloved Gioacchino Rossini opera. 10th Annual Celebrity Chefs Culinary Program, Fairmont Copley T.T. the Bear’s Place, 10 Brookline St., Cambridge, 617-492-BEAR. ManRay, 21 Brookline St., Cambridge, 617-864-0400. Wed–Sat La Boheme, Teatro Lirico d’Europa, Cutler Majestic Theatre at Plaza, 138 St. James Ave., 617-267-4430. Classes take place from 1–3 Shows start at 8:30 p.m. Call for complete schedule. Cover: $8–14. 10 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover varies. 19+. Home of New England’s under- Emerson College, 219 Tremont St., 1-800-233-3123. Performances p.m. and are $50 per person. Jan 22—Mary Ann Esposito, host of “Ciao Jan 20—Steve Wynn and The Miracle Three with The Silos; Jan ground/alternative scene. Wed—“Crypt/Mekanism,” industrial elec- Jan 21–23: Fri & Sat at 7:30 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $35–75. Italia” and author of Ciao Italia in Umbria and several other cookbooks. 21—Detroit Cobras and The Sights; Jan 22—Tarbox Ramblers and tronic; Thu—“Campus,” boy-pop and high-energy house; Fri— Giacomo Puccini’s classic—North America’s most-produced opera— Tom Leach; Jan 23—Colin Meloy of The Decemberists; Jan 26— “Fetish Friday,” goth/industrial fetish; Sat—“Transmission,” retro is a tender yet tragic drama appealing to a wide range of music Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Public Celebration, 617-635-3911. Death From Above 1979 and Read Yellow; Jan 28—Dear Leader new wave. Creative attire encouraged. lovers for its timeless story of young people struggling to follow their Jan 17 from noon–2 p.m. at Faneuil Hall. Free ticketed event. Boston and Mittens; Jan 29—Dear Leader and Bon Savants. dreams, become artists and find love. Mayor Thomas M. Menino and Target host a public celebration of the Milky Way Lounge & Lanes, 405 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617- life of Martin Luther King, Jr., with concerts, breakfasts and other Wally’s Cafe, 427 Massachusetts Ave., 617-424-1408. Mon–Sat from 524-3740. Open daily 6 p.m.–1 a.m. The Milky Way is a laid-back special events scheduled to take place around the city. The National 9 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun from noon–2 a.m. Bands play at 9 p.m. No cover. but stylish club and bowling alley with a mix of nightly entertainment. SPECIAL EVENTS Speakers program at Faneuil Hall showcases Anita Hill. Wally’s was established in 1947 by Joseph L. Walcot, the first African- DJ nights feature everything from reggae and salsa to house, but the American to own a nightclub in Boston. It played a large part in the Milky Way also keeps it real with local bands. Tue—Rev. Pete’s Boston Wine Expo, World Trade Center, 164 Northern Ave., 1-877- The Greater Boston Antiques Festival, Shriner’s Auditorium, exit 39 growth of jazz music in this country and continues to host live jazz daily. Rockstar Karaoke; Sat—Mango’s Latin Dance, free salsa lessons. 946-3976. www.wine-expos.com. Jan 29 & 30 from 1–5 p.m. off I-93, three exits north of the I-95 and I-93 interchange, Wilmington, Tickets: $60–92. The largest consumer wine event in the country 781-862-4039. Jan 22 & 23: Sat from 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sun from 10 The Modern, 36 Lansdowne St., 617-536-2100. Tue, Thu, Fri & Sat (with more than 16,000 wine-aware attendees) showcases 440 a.m.–4 p.m. Tickets: $7, $10 for early preview on Saturday at 9 a.m. NIGHTCLUBS 10:30 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover varies. Located behind Fenway Park, this chic wineries from 13 countries and offers a wide variety of wines to tan- Celebrating its seventh year, the Greater Boston Antiques Festival fea- lounge offers a laid-back alternative to the dance clubs that fill most of talize the palate. The Expo also features seminars for both novices tures 162 antiques dealers from 10 states and is considered the Aria, 246 Tremont St., 617-338-7080. Tue–Sun 11 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: the street. DJs perform nightly, specializing in international music. and connoisseurs, chef demonstrations from Boston’s most notable largest and most diverse antique show in metro Boston. This year’s $5–15. Call for age restrictions. Located in the basement of the Wilbur experts and special food and wine events. Refer to story, page 12. event includes guest appraisals by Paul Royka, a nationally recognized Theatre, this nightspot features a chic decor with plush red couches The Rack, 24 Clinton St., 617-725-1051. Open daily, 11:30 a.m.–2 expert, author and appraiser on the PBS series “Antiques Roadshow.” and dance music—from International to House. Dress to impress. a.m. No cover. This upscale billiards club, restaurant and bar is known Boston Wine Festival, Boston Harbor Hotel, 70 Rowes Wharf, for attracting celebrities, as well as Boston’s young professional crowd. 1-888-660-WINE. Call for ticket prices and full event schedule or 20th Annual Anthony Spinazzola Gala Festival of Food and Avalon, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. Thu–Sun 10 p.m.–2 Live music every night except Saturday; DJs nightly from 10 p.m.–2 a.m. visit www.bostonwinefestival.net. Jan 19 & 20—Quarterly Review of Wine, World Trade Center, 164 Northern Ave., 781-344-4413. Jan a.m. Cover: $10–20. 19+ on Thu & Fri; 21+ on Sat & Sun. One of Boston’s premier nightclubs featuring Euro and Top 40 dance nights. The Roxy, 279 Tremont St., 617-338-7699. Thu–Sat 10 p.m.–2 It’s also the city’s largest club venue for live music acts. Thu—Hip- a.m. Cover: $10–15. Thu—“The Latin Quarter”; Fri—R&B, hip-hop hop night; Fri—renowned DJs from around the world at “Avaland”; and reggae; Sat—High-energy house, techno and dance music. Sat—Total Request with DJ Tim Collins; Sun—Gay Night. Sophia’s, 1270 Boylston St., 617-351-7001. Cover varies. A roman- Axis, 13 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2437. Mon & Thu–Sun 10 p.m.–2 tic, upbeat favorite of those who like to salsa. Whether it’s on the out- a.m. Cover: $5–20, 19+. Mon—“Static,” gay night; Thu—“Spend” (no door upper deck or in the exposed-brick interior, guests keep movin’ cover); Fri—“Avaland,” hip-hop; Sat—“Lushlife,” alternative party hits. to Latin beats and live music. Wed–Sat—salsa lessons; Wed— “SalsaBoston.com”; Fri—“Sangria and Salsa”; Sat—DJ Edwin Matos. The Alley, One Boylston Place, 617-351-7000. Thu–Sat 10 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: $5–10. Located in the famous Boylston Street alleyway, this one- Venu, 100 Warrenton St., 617-338-8061. Thu–Sun 11 p.m.–2 a.m. stop nightspot includes the Big Easy Bar, Sugar Shack and Sweetwater Cover varies. You’ll find a highly fashionable Euro crowd at this Cafe. Party Mardi Gras-style on Boston’s version of Bourbon Street. Theater District club. DJs nightly.

Boston Billiard Club, 126 Brookline Ave., 617-536-POOL. Ranked Whiskey Park, Boston Park Plaza Hotel, 64 Arlington St., 617-542- Number One Billiard Club in the country by Billiards Digest, this 1482. Rande Gerber, husband to Cindy Crawford, opened the latest nightspot is perfect for pool aficionados and novices alike. Mon—free installment of his Whiskey franchise, a posh addition to the Boston lessons; Wed—Ladies’ Night: each lady gets 25 percent off table night scene. The 3,500 square-foot space contains two separate time. Four ladies per table play for free; Sun–Thu—League Night. bars—one more intimate, and the other a lively lounge.

Boston Rocks Nightclub, 245 Quincy Market (near Faneuil Hall), 617-726-1110. Thu–Sat 9 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover varies. 21+. Where OPERA Boston comes to rock. Fri—6one7 presents The Loft with R & B and hip-hop music; Sat—Shotgun Saturdays with VJ Johnnie Walker Alceste, Opera Boston and Boston Baroque, Cutler Majestic Theatre Black spinning Top 40. No hats allowed. at Emerson College, 219 Tremont St., 1-800-233-3123. Performances: Jan 28 at 7:30 p.m. and Jan 30 at 3 p.m. Tickets: Club Cafe, 209 Columbus Ave., 617-536-0966. Thu–Sat 9 p.m.– $30–90. Christoph Willibald Gluck’s exquisitely beautiful portrayal of 2 a.m. No cover. In the back of the 209 restaurant, you’ll find the love and self-sacrifice was called “a psychological drama of a subtle- Moonshine and Satellite lounges, voted “Best of Boston” by Boston mag- ty rarely matched in 18th century opera” by London’s Guardian. azine and The Improper Bostonian for best gay and lesbian nightspot. Il Barbiere di Siviglia, Teatro Lirico d’Europa, Cutler Majestic Theatre Jillian’s Boston, 145 Ipswich St. (behind Fenway Park), 617-437- at Emerson College, 219 Tremont St., 1-800-233-3123. Jan 20 at 7:30 0300. www.jilliansboston.com. Open daily 11 a.m.–2 a.m. One of p.m. Tickets: $35–75. A lovely young girl, Rosina, has a lecherous old

20 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 21 CURRENTLY The Glass Menagerie, Lyric Stage Company, 140 Clarendon St., The Rivals, Huntington Theatre Company, Boston University Theatre, The DREAM Lives On 617-437-7172. Performances: Wed & Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., 264 Huntington Ave., 617-266-0800. Performances: Tue–Thu at 7:30 by Diana Arumburu Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $19–41. This classic p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat 2 and 8 p.m., Sun 2 and 7 p.m. Tickets: Tennessee Williams play portrays the Wingfield family’s struggle to $14–69. Richard Sheridan perfected romantic comedy in this 18th hen Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. bellowed the survive in 1939 St. Louis. While family matriarch Amanda clings to century classic. The affluent Captain Jack Absolute disguises himself Wfamous words, “Free at last!,” from the her dignity, son Tom reluctantly serves as breadwinner and frail sister as a poor naval officer in order to woo the idealistic Lydia Languish, to steps of the Lincoln Memorial on August 28, 1963, Laura retreats from the world, seeking comfort in her collection of lit- whom wealth means nothing. Misconstrued circumstances and mis- tle glass animals. Will the arrival of a “gentleman caller” bring hope, conceptions of love set the stage for a hilarious satire of romantic he redefined the American dream. Appropriately, or shatter their fragile home? sentimentalism and sophisticated pretensions, starring legendary the- the Hub honors Dr. King’s memory by hosting a atre actress Mary Louise Wilson as the unforgettable Mrs. Malaprop. series of free events. Mayor Thomas Menino’s Leo Tolstoy’s The Kreutzer Sonata, Merrimack Repertory Theatre, 50 East Merrimack St., Lowell, 978-454-3926. Performances Seussical the Musical, Bay Colony Productions, The Orpheum Martin Luther King National Speaking through Jan 29: Thu & Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 8:30 p.m., Sun at 2 and Theatre, One School St., Foxboro, 978-369-2990. Performances Program kicks off the holiday on January 17 at 7 p.m. Tickets: $43, seniors $39, students $16. From the pen of one begin Jan 21: Fri at 7:30 p.m., Sat 2 and 7:30 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. noon with activist attorney Anita Hill at Faneuil of Russia’s greatest authors comes a penetrating look into the mind Tickets: $24, seniors $22, children $18. Based on the works of Dr. of a married man. Starring and adapted by Larry Pine, this one-man Seuss, this musical presents classic stories and colorful tales that are Hall. If lectures on voting rights aren’t your cup tour-de-force creates a darkly funny, mesmerizing performance that seamlessly brought together by Jojo, a young boy and “thinker of of tea, feel free to relax listening to Len Cabral’s floats on a musical landscape, as a man consumed with obsession strange and wonderful thinks.” As each story unfolds, audiences will storytelling at the Kennedy Library, tap your feet and jealousy reveals his deadly secret, leading the audience on an marvel at the relevance of Seuss’ subtle themes, making this a show along to traditional Cape Verdean music and extraordinary theatrical journey. for people of all ages. dance at the Museum of Fine Arts or enjoy The Lion King, The Opera House, 539 Washington St., 617-931- Shear Madness, Charles Playhouse Stage II, 74 Warrenton St., 617- gospel and classical music at the Museum of 2787. Performances: Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 426-5225. Performances: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 6:30 and 9:30 p.m., and 8 p.m., Sun at 1 and 6:30 p.m. Tickets: $27.50–132.50. Sun at 3 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $34–50. Boston’s hilarious whodunnit vice Afro-American History with the Greater Boston Christening the newly restored, historic Opera House, Disney’s block- where the audience takes a stab at catching the killer. Become an Youth Symphony Orchestra. Whatever you choose buster show based on the hit animated film won seven 1998 Tony armchair sleuth in the longest-running non-musical play in U.S. history. to do, you’ll be celebrating a man who stirred the Awards, including Best Musical and Best Director for avant-garde conscience of the American people and inspired a filmmaker Julie Taymor. Marvel at the breathtaking puppet-like cos- The Tempest, Boston Theatre Works, Cyclorama Building, Boston nation to fight for the civil rights of all citizens. tumes and bold, vibrant colors as the animals of the Serengeti plains Center for the Arts, 539 Tremont St., 617-728-4321. Performances: are vividly brought to life through Taymor’s incomparable, bold vision, Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sun at 7 p.m., no performances Jan Refer to listings, pages 21 and 37. enhanced by Elton John and Tim Rice’s Oscar-winning score. 20 or 29. Tickets: $24–30. Director Jason Slavick warms the winter

Abby Rowe/National Park Ser spirit with Shakespeare’s classic comedy about Prospero, a Duke Menopause the Musical, Stuart Street Playhouse, Radisson Hotel, banished to an abandoned island by his power-hungry brother. When 28 at 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $200. This is one of the biggest food and 29 at 7:30 p.m.—“Those That Came Before”; Jan 19, 25 & 28 at 200 Stuart St., 1-800-447-7400. Performances: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., he seizes opportunity for retribution with a mystical storm that ship- wine fetes of the year in Boston. More than 100 of the best restau- 7:30 p.m., Jan 23 at 3 p.m.—Ascension; Jan 20, 22, 26 & 29 at Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 and 5 p.m. Tickets: $42.50. This hilari- wrecks his brother and other nobles on the island, Prospero learns rants in New England come together with dozens of the most 7:30 p.m., Jan 30 at 3 p.m.—Spunk; Jan 22 & 29 at 2 p.m.— ous celebration of women and “the change” starts with four ladies at that he must surrender his power to regain his soul. extraordinary wineries in the world for an exciting evening of fun New works by various artists. Tickets: $20–38. This celebration of a Bloomingdale’s lingerie sale who bond over their menopausal ail- and frivolity to benefit the Anthony Spinazzola Foundation. Refer to works by African-Americans features Spunk, a trio of tales based on ments—memory loss, brain skips, hot flashes, night sweats, not Thrill Me: The Leopold & Loeb Story, Stoneham Theatre, 395 story, page 12. stories by Zora Neale Hurston; the world premiere of Cynthia’s enough sex, too much sex and more. The joyful musical parodies 28 Main St., Stoneham, 781-279-2200. Performances begin Jan 20: Robinson’s Ascension, a story of a love triangle among a slave classic Baby Boomer songs. Wed and Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri and Sat at 8 p.m. Tickets: $25, seniors master and two slaves; a selection of plays from the 1960s entitled $20, students $10. This chilling musical examines the lives of Nathan SPORTS “Those That Came Before;” and performances of new, short plays The Moonlight Room, SpeakEasy Stage Company, Roberts Leopold and Richard Loeb, who committed one of the most infamous written by New England playwrights, followed by discussions with Theatre, Calderwood Pavilion at the Boston Center for the Arts, 527 and heinous crimes of the 20th century. Set in 1924 Chicago, the AND 1 Street Ball Live, FleetCenter, Causeway St., 617-523-3030 the writers and actors. Tremont St., 617-933-8600. Performances begin Jan 28: Wed–Fri at play chronicles the events that lead Leopold and Loeb to commit an or 617-931-2000. Jan 29 at 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $17–75. Featuring 8 p.m., Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m.Tickets: $35–40, seniors unthinkable crime—the murder of a young boy. Stephen Dolginoff’s the world’s best playground basketball players and a combination of Blue Man Group, Charles Playhouse, 74 Warrenton St., 617-931- and students $30–35. This 2004 off-Broadway hit by Tristine Skyler, dark score propels the action and underscores the tension at the stars from the hit ESPN 2 television series “Street Ball.” See head-to- 2787 or 617-426-6912. Performances: Wed & Thu at 8 p.m., Fri at hailed by The New York Times as “One of the Best Plays of the Year,” center of the plot. head match-ups between fan favorites, including newly signed play- 7 and 10 p.m., Sat at 4, 7 and 10 p.m., Sun at 2 and 5 p.m.Tickets: is a tale of urban adolescence that takes place in the waiting room of ers Baby Shack and Spinmaster, as well as living legends Professor, $43–53. This giddily subversive off-Broadway hit features three a New York City hospital as two teenagers look for news on the fate Spyda, Helicopter, Main Event and Half Man-Half Amazing. muted, blue-painted performers who spoof both contemporary art of a friend. With relationships tested, families strained and blame TICKETS and modern technology through wry commentary and bemusing misplaced, the play follows a harrowing 24 hours where everything The Boston Celtics National Basketball Association antics. The show was recently updated to include new performance is put at stake. Bostix, Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Copley Square, 617-723-5181. FleetCenter, Causeway St., 617-523-3030 or 617-931-2000. pieces, new music and alterations to the sound and lighting design. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Faneuil Hall closed Mon); Sun 11 a.m.–4 Jan 19 at 7 p.m. vs. Chicago Bulls Quills, New Repertory Theatre, Newton Highlands Congregational p.m. Information and tickets, including half-price seats on day of event, Jan 26 at 7 p.m. vs. Indiana Pacers Foreign Aids, American Repertory Theatre, Zero Arrow Theatre, Zero Church, 54 Lincoln St., Newton Highlands, 617-332-1646. for the best performing arts around Boston. Subject to availability. Jan 28 at 7:30 p.m. vs. Phoenix Suns Arrow St., Cambridge, 617-547-8300. Performances through Jan Performances: Wed at 7 p.m., Thu & Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 4:30 and 23: Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri & Sat at 8 p.m., Sun at 2 and 7:30 8:30 p.m., Sun at 3 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $28–48. Pulitzer Prize- p.m. Tickets: $35–45. Foreign Aids is a performance piece by Pieter- and Tony Award-winning writer Doug Wright (I Am My Own Wife) TRANSPORTATION THEATER Dirk Uys that shatters the deadly official silence that still hangs over examines the nature and price of freedom through the final days of the South African AIDS crisis. A fabulously funny performer/satirist, the Marquis de Sade (played by stage and screen star Austin Boston Town Car, 617-782-4000. Downtown to Logan: $20; Back African American Theatre Festival, Our Place Theatre Project, Uys’ many incarnations include Nelson Mandela, P.W. Botha, and his Pendleton) as he is imprisoned in France’s Charenton Asylum at the Bay to Logan: $25. Lincoln Town Car executive sedans available at rea- Wimberly Theatre, Calderwood Pavilion at the Boston Center for the most outrageous creation—the glamorous Evita Bezuidenhout, “the turn of the 18th century. Wright adapted his play for the 2000 sonable rates. Professional, courteous drivers for tours, airport, getting Arts, 527 Tremont St., 617-933-8600. Performances: Jan 18, 21 & most famous white woman in South Africa.” Academy Award-nominated film. around town and long distance runs. All major credit cards accepted.

22 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 23 SHOPPING goods companies, Cartier is a symbol of prestige, glamour, innovation . . . Just a and quality. This premier jeweler offers a dazzling display of dia- Heartbeat monds, jewelry and accessories, including timepieces, silver, crystal, away! perfume, designer pens and leather accessories.

Chanel Boutique, 5 Newbury St., on the ground floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 617-859-0055. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Modeled after the famed Chanel Boutique in Paris, the Boston outpost of this storied franchise offers a range of Chanel products, including a line of clothing designed by Karl Lagerfeld, as well as shoes, accessories, handbags and fragrances.

Ermenegildo Zegna, 39 Newbury St., 617-424-9300. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Originally a small, family-run textile business transformed into a world leader in elegant men’s clothing, this Italian design house has focused passionately on quality since its

Elizabeth Bridleman founding in 1910. Today, Zegna is a fourth-generation, family-run enterprise that boasts a tradition of designing and producing the PREP Schooling by Christopher Wallenberg finest in menswear by utilizing exclusive fabric designs. Zegna is also known for its vast, first-rate necktie selection. ou take the good with the bad when you live in the biggest college town in America. Among Ythe bad—inebriated undergrads singing their way across Boston Common, rowdy keg par- John Fluevog, 302 Newbury St., 617-266-1079. Mon–Sat 11 ties spilling onto Comm Ave., and midriff-baring co-eds at Starbucks chattering about the hot a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun 1–6 p.m. This funky footwear retailer features guy in their English class. The good? Well, try the launch of Ralph Lauren’s new Rugby store at shoes created by the maverick designer. His highly original creations range from mind-bending platforms to the classic black boot and his At The Corner Mall you have the 342 Newbury Street (617-247-2801), catering to the Hub’s collegiate set and hoping to capital- tried-and-true “Angels,” placing him on the cutting edge of footwear best of Boston with boutiques and ize on the comeback of all things preppy. The first store of its kind in the world offers an exclu- design for both men and women. The Newbury Street locale is the an international food court offering something for every palate! sive line of apparel under Lauren’s Rugby label, with classic garments tailored to a younger, only place in Boston to find a wide range of his styles. At the Corner of Winter & Washington Streets edgier customer and at lower prices than traditional Polo gear. The store features everything John Lewis, Inc., 97 Newbury St., 617-266-6665. Tue–Sat 11 from cashmere blend cable-knit sweaters and corduroy pants emblazoned with little skulls and a.m.–6 p.m. John Lewis has been creating jewelry of imaginative crossbones to candy-colored, low-rise skirts and jeans. Who knew preppy could also be chic? design in Boston’s Back Bay for more than 30 years. Using only solid precious metals and natural stones, he makes the jewelry in his own workshop and signs it with the unique John Lewis trademark. His various shopping areas and provide a taste of Newbury Street 24 aim is “to make jewelry at a reasonable price, of excellent workman- I what they offer. ship and uncommon beauty.” Jewelry designed by John Lewis is Back Bay/Boylston Street 26 creative, professional and impressive—a statement of good taste N and a constant delight to the wearer. Charles Street 27 NEWBURY STREET D Downtown Crossing 27 A Knit and Needlepoint Store by Mary Jo Cole, 11 Newbury St. One of the most popular shopping areas in the city, (between Arlington and Berkeley streets), 617-536-9338; fax 617-536- Offering a Creative Menu Faneuil Hall Marketplace 28 Newbury Street is the home of exclusive designer bou- 9333. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun by chance. The fine art of hand- E Specializing in Fresh Cambridge/Harvard Square 28 tiques and high-end fashion shops, numerous art gal- painted needlepoint and gorgeous knitting yarns are showcased here. leries, interesting restaurants and cafes, beauty salons Individual instruction is available at a moment’s notice from the knowl- Seafood and Homemade X Arts & Antiques 29 and spas, and unusual gift and jewelry shops. edgeable staff and there is never a charge for lessons when the project Pasta. Visit the Hyatt is purchased here. Whatever your particular interest, Mary Jo Cole has a Harborside and Relax in Boston is a shopper’s paradise. You’ll Akris, 16 Newbury St., 617-536-6225. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. broad selection of patterns and materials from which to choose. Also Our Unique Atmosphere, Founded in Switzerland in 1922 by the Kriemler family, this design offering fine finishing. Visit the website at www.needlepoint-boston.com. Enjoy the Spectacular View discover stores ranging from heavy- house is the only true couture house outside of Paris and Milan that of the Boston Skyline and weights like Filene’s, Macy’s, Saks Fifth has distinguished itself for its creative, elegant and modern fashions. Louis Boston, 234 Berkeley St., 617-262-6100. Mon 11 a.m.–6 p.m.; Taste What Boston Is Avenue and Giorgio Armani to unique, Its designer collection for women is comprised of elegant, understated Tue & Wed 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 7 p.m. Housed in a historic Back suits, coats, dresses and a selection of evening wear. Bay building that was once the New England Museum of Natural History, Talking About. closet-sized boutiques. Whether your this Boston institution is one of the most unique and influential clothing tastes run to exclusive designer creations Allen-Edmonds, 36 Newbury St., 617-247-3363. Mon–Sat 9:30 stores in the world. It has maintained its cutting-edge allure by offering or the casual, country look, handmade a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Step out in luxurious style with Allen- upscale men’s fashions by a range of up-and-coming designers, as well Edmonds’ collections of wing tips, capped toes and slip-on kilties and as women’s fashions, bed and bath items, and home accessories. furniture or the latest electronic gadgetry, Hyatt Harborside tassles. This world-class men’s footwear retailer, famous for its 212-step 101 Harborside Drive antique jewelry or superbly crafted construction process, features shoes made of top-quality leather and all- MaxMara, 69 Newbury St., 617-267-9775. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Boston, MA 02128 leather goods, there’s a store to fulfill natural materials. Available in 164 different size and width combinations. Sun noon–6 p.m. Founded in 1951 and with more than 1,000 stores (617) 568-6060 every shopper’s dream. The best way to worldwide, MaxMara is Italy’s largest women’s ready-to-wear manu- www.boston.hyatt.com Cartier, 40 Newbury St., 617-262-3300. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. facturer. Its hallmarks are luxurious fabrics, stylish silhouettes and hand [email protected] grasp the city’s diversity is simply to If diamonds are forever, the House of Cartier is timeless. With more detailing. MaxMara embodies the principles of truly great Italian fash- explore. The following pages describe the than 150 years of experience as one of the world’s leading luxury ion—classic design and excellent quality.

24 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 25

S HOPPING Newbury Comics, 332 Newbury St., 617-236-4930. Mon–Thu 10 France, renowned for its beds, sofas and comfortable seating, and the customer service desk to purchase a PRUferred Card ($5) which a.m.–10:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Also: Alessi, Italy, famous for its stainless-steel teakettles and serving pieces. grants discounts to customers at more than 50 shops and restau- Government Center, 1 Washington Mall, 617-248-9992; 36 JFK St. rants. Mention Panorama and receive 50% off the card price. (in the Garage Mall), Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-491-0337; Crate & Barrel, 777 Boylston St., 617-262-8700. Mon–Sat 10 211 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-491-7711. You’ll have a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Also: Faneuil Hall Marketplace, a “wicked good time” at this upstart local chain of music stores, 617-742-6025; 48 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-876-6300. Call for CHARLES STREET which offers hands-down the cheapest CDs in town, including other location hours. This fun yet sophisticated home fashions store import, domestic, independent and major label releases. It also fea- features everything from kitchenware and furniture to flatware, Charles Street is the main commercial area of historic tures an array of T-shirts, comic books, jewelry and other pop cul- glassware and bath and body accessories. Beacon Hill. Brick sidewalks, gas-lit streetlamps, quaint ture kitsch items. stores, romantic restaurants and cozy cafes tucked Copley Place, Copley Square, 617-369-5000. The magnificent away on every level of the brownstones make this one Niketown, 200 Newbury St., 617-267-3400. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–7 Copley Place features more than 100 upscale stores, including of the most charming areas in the city. p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. An enormous temple to the Nike franchise, Neiman Marcus, Tiffany & Co., Gucci, BOSS Hugo Boss and Williams- this sporting goods retailer proffers all things Nike, including Sonoma. A variety of restaurants, including Legal Sea Foods, provide Black Ink, 101 Charles St., 617-723-3883; 5 Brattle St., Cambridge, footwear, apparel, equipment and accessories. The store features an shoppers with many dining options. To receive a free Ultimate 617-497-1221. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. Trendy homage to the Boston Marathon, seats from the old Boston Garden Shopping Excursions card, which offers savings at many Copley knick-knacks, from silk change purses to sensual candles to sushi- and autographed shoes from former Marathon champion Uta Pippig. Place shops as well as at a number of nearby tourist attractions, eating accessories, and nostalgic memorabilia such as tin lunch stop by one of the customer service kiosks. boxes can be found at this quirky, fun gift shop on Beacon Hill and Pucker Gallery, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat 10 in Harvard Square. a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Founded in 1967 as a showcase for the The Heritage on the Garden, 300 Boylston St., 617-426-9500. talents of Israeli artists, the gallery has displayed and sold a wide range Call for individual store hours. This residential/office/retail complex Helen’s Leather, 110 Charles St., 617-742-2077. Mon, Wed, Fri & of art across the United States, Canada and around the world, including located alongside the Public Garden features a handful of upscale Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Thu noon–8 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. Closed Tue. COWBOY BOOTS works by Chagall, Picasso and Hundertwasser. Recent special exhibits retailers, including St. John Boutique, Sonia Rykiel, Escada, Hermes, For over thirty years, Helen’s Leather has been supplying New MEN N WOMEN N CHILDREN include the distinctive work of Samuel Bak and Brother Thomas. Candela Spa and Anne Fontaine. Englanders with one of the area’s largest selections of quality Western Boots N Lucchese N Justin N Nocona Tony Lama N Dan Post N Frye N Liberty boots. Boot makers include Lucchese, Tony Lama, Justin, Nocona and STETSON HATS The Society of Arts and Crafts, 175 Newbury St., 617-266-1810. Lux Bond & Green, 416 Boylston St., 617-266-4747. Mon–Sat 10 Frye. Along with the boots, Helen’s also has a great selection of Shirts N Belts N Buckles N Bolo Ties Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest nonprofit a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m. Since 1898, Lux Bond & Green has pro- Western belts, buckles, shirts and Stetson hats, as well as a great HELEN’S LEATHER craft organization in the country, established in 1897. The Society vided its customers with diamonds, gold jewelry, watches and gift- selection of leather jackets, briefcases and bags. 110 Charles St., Boston, MA specializes in contemporary American crafts, jewelry, furniture, glass ware from around the world. The store offers a corporate gift division, 617.742.2077 and ceramics ranging from cutting edge to traditional, and from func- bridal and gift registry, a full-service repair department, gift certifi- Koo de Kir, 34 Charles St., 617-723-8111. Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–7 tional to sculptural. In addition to the retail crafts gallery, there is an cates and elegant gift-wrapping. p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. This sleek home goods exhibition gallery featuring four shows each year. store exudes warmth and irreverence with its selection of unique, Marshalls, 500 Boylston St., 617-262-6066. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–9 p.m.; fashionable home essentials, from serving trays and lamps to teapots Urban Outfitters, 361 Newbury St., 617-236-0088. Mon–Thu 10 Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; 350 Washington St., Downtown Crossing, 617- and coffee mugs. a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun noon–8 p.m. Also: 11 JFK 338-6205. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Its mantra St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-864-0070. Where urban hip- “Brand name clothing for less” has made this discount retailer a bar- Wish, 49 Charles St., 617-227-4441. Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Thu sters turn for a wide selection of funky men’s and women’s fashions, gain-hunter’s dream come true. From Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein, ’til 8 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. Proving you can find from cutting-edge independent designs to clothing staples. The store Marshalls features designer clothing for men, women and children. hip couture off Newbury Street, this fashion boutique is home to also features a wide array of housewares, shoes, accessories, gifts, designers like Nanette Lapore, Rebecca Taylor and Jean Yu. The chic books, cards and other bric-a-brac. Restoration Hardware, 711 Boylston St., 617-578-0088. Mon–Sat yet welcoming shop offers cashmere sweaters, pink chiffon dresses, 10 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. This unique hardware retailer fea- rhinestone-detailed turtlenecks and beaded purses—all perfect for a Virgin Megastore, 360 Newbury St., 617-896-0950. Daily 10 tures sleek, distinctive, high-quality items for the home—from clas- night on the town. a.m.–midnight. The British music retail heavyweight makes its New sic home furnishings to lighting and kitchen accessories to garden England debut with its 22nd North American location. Three levels supplies, tools, books, fixtures and other unique devices. Each prod- and more than 40,000 square feet of space feature thousands of uct is imbued with the store’s classic design, affordable pricing and DOWNTOWN CROSSING books, CDs, videos and DVDs, as well as interactive listening kiosks whimsical product information. and the Virgin Cafe on the top floor. Dynamic Downtown Crossing is jammed with stores Shreve, Crump & Low, 330 Boylston St., 617-267-9100. Mon–Sat and services of every conceivable nature. Streets are 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Serving Bostonians since 1796, this tried-and- bricked over to form a pedestrian walkway where cars BACK BAY/BOYLSTON STREET true Boston institution boasts of being the oldest continuously operat- are not permitted during business hours. The area ing luxury business in the country. Its landmark art deco store is filled offers outdoor benches, street vendors and fast-food In the area framed by the Hynes Convention Center with cases of glittering diamonds, fine jewelry and watches. The gal- eateries that create a convenient shopping district. at one end and the famed jewelers Shreve, Crump & leries also offer silver, china, crystal, porcelain, stationery, furniture, Low, the beautiful Public Garden and the bustling antiques, giftware and much more. The Corner Mall, corner of Winter and Washington streets. Open Theater District at the other, shoppers can find daily. One-stop shopping and eating in Downtown Crossing. Across many department stores, bookshops, florists, The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., 1-800-SHOP- from Filene’s Basement, you’ll find the latest styles at a variety of excit- jewelers and restaurants. PRU. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Located in the ing shops, from Discovery Imports and Bath & Body Works to Lids heart of Boston’s Back Bay, The Shops at Prudential Center features and Aldo Shoe. In addition, the Corner Mall features an international Adesso, 200 Boylston St., 617-451-2212. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; over 75 shops and restaurants including The Cheesecake Factory, food court offering eateries to please every palate, including Cafe La Sun noon–5 p.m. Adjoining Boston’s Four Seasons Hotel and across from Legal Sea Foods, Saks Fifth Avenue, Ann Taylor, J. Jill and Alpha Omega Brioche, Sakkio Japan, India Express and Bourbon Street Cafe. the Public Garden is one of America’s leading resources for beautifully Fine Jewelry and Watches. It is also home to the city’s best tourist des- designed furniture, lighting and accessories. Adesso imports and stocks a tinations, including Boston Duck Tours, Beantown Trolley and Boston’s Eddie Bauer, 500 Washington St., 617-423-4722. Mon–Sat 9:30 vast range of Europe’s finest designer products such as Ligne Roset, tallest skyscraper observatory, the Skywalk View and Exhibit. Stop by a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This local outlet of the renowned

26 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 27 S HOPPING Seattle-based chain offers seasonal collections of fine-quality, casual Bill Rodgers Running Center, 353 North Market Place, Faneuil Hall apparel, footwear, travel gear and accessories for men and women, Marketplace, 617-723-5612. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– 8:45 p.m.; Sun all at steep discounts from the regular retail prices. noon–6 p.m. Owned by four-time Boston Marathon winner and legend A RTS & A NTIQUES Bill Rodgers, this footwear retailer is committed to helping runners of Filene’s, 426 Washington St., 617-357-2100. Mon–Sat 9:30 a.m.– all levels choose the most suitable shoes, not just the bestselling or 8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Founded in Boston in 1851, Filene’s is most expensive. Features include a vast selection of shoes, apparel INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY New England’s premier department store, offering six floors of appar- and accessories along with an experienced, knowledgeable staff. el and accessories for the entire family. Discover the latest collections World Leading Collection of Original Vintage Posters from renowned designers such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph Marketplace Center, located between Faneuil Hall and the Internationally renowned collection of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Avant- Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger as well as cosmetics and fragrances from Waterfront. Twenty-four distinctive shops surround an open court Garde posters from Italy, Switzerland, France, Holland, the Soviet Union and Chanel and Lancôme and bed and bath products by Laura Ashley known as the Exedra, where you will always find a wide range of more. Dating from 1890 to the present; subjects range from food and and Croscill. Filene’s complimentary personal shopping service unusual pushcarts and entertainment events unique to this wonderful beverages, fashion and travel to war and propaganda. Special exhibitions assists all your shopping needs. Call 617-357-2100, ext. 2611. area. Within walking distance are literally hundreds of other shops, throughout the year. Visit the gallery online at www.internationalposter.com. restaurants, pubs and nightspots. SEE LOCATOR #7 ON CENTER MAP. Filene’s Basement, 426 Washington St., 617-542-2011. Mon–Fri 205 Newbury Street 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sat 9 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. There are (between Exeter and Fairfield streets) — 617-375-0076 certain “musts” for visitors to Boston: a ride on the Swan Boats, a tour CAMBRIDGE/HARVARD SQUARE Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. of the Freedom Trail and a shopping trip to Filene’s Basement. For more than 90 years, the Basement has provided Boston shoppers with terrific Home of Harvard’s hallowed halls, this eclectic neigh- bargains. The store’s automatic markdown system guarantees that the borhood is the heart of Cambridge. This mecca of longer the item remains on the selling floor, the greater the discount. stores includes an array of small bookshops, clothing stores, quaint coffee houses and restaurants. H & M, 350 Washington St., 617-482-7081. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– 8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This youthful, cutting-edge European Alpha Omega, 1380 Mass. Ave., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617- department store opened its Boston outpost in 2001. Its mantra of 864-1227. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m.; Sun noon–6 “fashion and quality at the best price” translates to inexpensive, trendy p.m. Also: The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., 617- clothes for men and women. H & M scours the globe in search for the 494-9030. Dedicated to the art of timekeeping, Alpha Omega is an MASSACHUSETTS freshest, most up-to-date fashion trends in color, material and style. authorized agent for more than 20 prestigious watch brands includ- ing Akteo, Bertolucci, Breitling, Georg Jensen, Movado, Omega, Rado, ANTIQUES COOPERATIVE Macy’s, 450 Washington St., 617-357-3195. Mon–Sat 9:30 a.m.– Seiko, Alain Silberstein, TAG Heuer and Raymond Weil. Don’t miss the More than 125 dealers of quality antiques and collectibles. “A 8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This famous New York-based depart- exceptional collection of jewels, gold and platinum treasures or the don’t-miss for lovers of antiques... everything you can think of ment giant features floor after floor of the latest culinary tools, bed new and vintage Swatch collection. under one roof.” (Where magazine) “The best of the suburban and bath items, incredible gifts and the hottest fashions. Choose from lot!” (Yankee Magazine & Newsletter) “Browsers will find your favorite designers—Polo, Liz Claiborne, Nautica, Jones New CambridgeSide Galleria, 100 CambridgeSide Place, Cambridge, York and DKNY—or Macy’s exclusive labels. 617-621-8666. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. everything... [Shopping here is] like exploring a wonderful, Conveniently located at the Lechmere stop on the Green Line, this cluttered attic...” (The Boston Globe Magazine). Old South Meeting House Museum Shop, 310 Washington St., three-level mall features department stores such as Filene’s, Sears www.massantiques.com. Only 8 miles from Boston: Mass Pike (90) W; 617-482-6439. Open daily from 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. The Museum and Best Buy, as well as more than 100 other stores and specialty 128 N to Exit 26 (Rt. 20 E); right on Moody Street; 100 Felton Street, Waltham — 781-893-8893 right at Felton (first light). Shop offers historical books, puzzles, maps, jewelry, handcrafted shops including the largest Gap in Boston, Abercrombie & Fitch, J. 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Thu ’til 8 p.m.; closed Tue ceramics and pottery. As the historic site that launched the Boston Crew, Old Navy, Borders, Victoria’s Secret and more. Tea Party, the Meeting House sells “Boston Harbour Tea,” which is, of course, tax-free! The children’s section of the store has a variety of The Coop at Harvard Square, 1400 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617- whimsical and educational toys and books, which includes “hurdy- 499-2000. Harvard Book Building: Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sun 10 gurdys,” wooden tops, historical paper dolls and much more. a.m.–9 p.m. Brattle/Palmer Building: Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sun www.oldsouthmeetinghouse.org noon–7 p.m. Founded by Harvard students more than 100 years ago, this behemoth Harvard Square landmark offers a massive THE SOCIETY OF ARTS AND CRAFTS T.J. Maxx, 350 Washington St., 617-695-2424. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.– selection of books, reference materials and periodicals, as well as the Contemporary American Craft 7:30 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This discount retailer offers brand finest collection of Harvard insignia merchandise. Ranging from functional to sculptural, SAC’s first floor gallery represents name and designer fashions for men, women, teens and kids, as well as accessories, fine jewelry and items for the home. Prices are The Garment District, 200 Broadway, Cambridge, 617-876-5230. over 250 artists working in clay, glass, metal, wood and fiber from across slashed 20 to 60 percent off most department store rates. T.J. Maxx Sun–Tue 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Wed–Fri ’til 8 p.m.; Sat 9 a.m.–7 p.m. A the United States. The second floor exhibition gallery features four curated offers current trends of the highest quality. vintage clothing-lover’s paradise, this two-level thrift warehouse is a shows each year. www.societyofcrafts.org. local institution. The offerings include an array of corduroys, painter 175 Newbury Street pants and vintage Levi’s; knock-off designer dresses; ironic old-school (between Dartmouth & Exeter Streets) — 617-266-1810 FANEUIL HALL MARKETPLACE T-shirts; ’70s go-go boots; and more polyester than at a convention of used-car salesmen. The ambitious (or desperate) among you can sift Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Quincy Market, the centerpiece of Faneuil Hall through the mounds of clothing at the downstairs Dollar-A-Pound. Marketplace, was an early American marketplace filled with food and produce vendors. Now it houses count- Tower Records, 95 Mt. Auburn St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, less stores, restaurants and snack counters. The North 617-876-3377. Sun–Thu 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til midnight. This and South Markets are home to more than 125 stores music superstore features everything from CDs, tapes and records to Kimberly Keyworth silver, gold and enamel pendant where shoppers indulge in everything from jewelry and videos, books and periodicals. Its music selection runs the gamut from clothes to flowers and art. classical to country to current pop, rock and soul sounds.

28 PANORAMA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 1 •2 • 3• 4•5 1 D • LEGEND • Charles River Basin FENWAY/ Pedestrian Bridges 2 KENMORE SQUARE MBTA Subway Stops T Red Line T Orange Line E T Blue Line T Green Line • •

see opposite page for CAMBRIDGE 3 detail F

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4 G

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H 5

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J 6 & SOMER

CAMBRIDGE • •

T K R Red Line 7 MBT A Subw Public Restrooms Pedestrian Bridges Charles River Basin LEGEND

VILLE • T ay Stops Or • ange Line

L D C B A 8 E • • • • • 5 • 6 • 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 • 12 • 13 • 14 • 15 CHARLESTOWN (see following page) LEGEND D Freedom Trail & Sites D * Black Heritage Trail Pedestrian Area W City Water Taxi Stops • Charles River Basin • Pedestrian Bridges R Public Restrooms

E MBTA Subway Stops E T Red Line T Orange Line T Blue Line T Green Line • •

see page 30 for CAMBRIDGE detail F F FENWAY/KENMORE SQUARE (see previous page) • •

G G

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L L AP INDEX A A M CHARLESTOWN POINTS OF INTEREST Northeastern University K4 142 ADVERTISER INDEX African Meeting House F9 100 Old City Hall G10 143 Chart House G13 1 Arlington Street Church G8 Old Corner Bookstore G10 144 Back Bay Station J7 Old North Church E11 145 Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse H8 2 Berklee College of Music H5 102 Old South Meeting House G10 146 Florentine Café F12 3 • • Berklee Performance Center H5 Old State House G11 147 Black Falcon Cruise Port L15 The Opera House H9 148 The Hungry i F8 4 Black Heritage Trail – – – F9 103 Park Street Church G10 149 Boston Center for the Arts J8 104 Park Street Station G9 150 Jimmy’s Harborside K14 5 Boston City Hall F10 Paul Revere House E11 151 Lucca Restaurant F11 6 B B Boston Common G9 Paul Revere Mall E12 152 Boston Convention & Exhibition Ctr. K13 Post Office Square G11 153 Marketplace Center G12 7 Boston Design Center K15 Prudential Center H6 #120 Skywalk Observatory at the Boston Massacre Site G11 The Public Garden (Swan Boats) G8 Prudential Center G6 8 Boston Public Library H6 Quincy Market G11 154 • • Boston Tea Party Ship & Museum J12 105 Robert Gould Shaw Memorial G9 155 Jasper White’s Summer Shack H5 9 LEGEND Boston University G2 Rowes Wharf H13 Freedom Trail & Sites Bunker Hill Monument B9 Shubert Theatre J9 Advertiser map locator *W City Water Taxi Stops Bunker Hill Pavilion (Charlestown map) C10 Sightseeing boats G13 Central Burying Ground H9 Simmons College K3 156 C Charles River Basin C Charles Playhouse J9 South Station Information Center J11 157 Eliot Suite Hotel H4 Pedestrian Bridges Charlestown Navy Yard (Charlestown map) C11 State House G9 Embassy Suites Boston Logan Airport E15 R Public Restrooms Cheers Bar G8 Suffolk University F9 158 The Fairmont Copley Plaza H7 Hwy. Entrances & Exits Children’s Museum J12 106 Symphony Hall J5 159 Fifteen Beacon Street G9 21 Christian Science Center J5 107 Tip O’Neill Building E9 160 Four Seasons Hotel H8 Christopher Columbus Park F12 Transportation Building H9 Hampton Inn, Crosstown Center L7 • MBTA Subway Stops • Citgo sign G3 Trinity Church G7 161 The Harborside Inn G12 T Green Line T Orange Line Colonial Theatre H9 USS Constitution (Charlestown map) D10 Hilton Boston Back Bay H5 Conference Center at Harvard Medical J2 108 USS Constitution Museum D10 Hilton Boston Logan Airport F16 Copley Place J7 109 Wang Center for the Performing Arts J9 162 Holiday Inn Express L9 Copley Square H7 Wheelock College J2 163 Holiday Inn/Logan Airport D16 D D Copley Theatre H7 Wilbur Theatre J9 Holiday Inn/Brookline H1 Copps Hill Burial Ground E11 110 World Trade Center J14 Holiday Inn Select/Government Center F9 Custom House Tower G12 111 Zoo New England/Franklin Park Zoo L6 164 Holiday Inn/Somerville A6 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 Cutlter Majestic Theatre H9 Hotel Buckminster G3 Downtown Crossing H10 CAMBRIDGE MAP Hotel Commonwealth G4 Emerald Necklace J1-J11 Cambridge City Hall C4 Howard Johnson Lodge H3 Emerson College H9 112 CambridgeSide Galleria D7 Hyatt Harborside Hotel H15 Emmanuel College J2 113 Harvard Art Museums-Fogg/Sackler B3 165 Hyatt Regency Boston, Financial District H10 Exchange Conference Ctr. J15 114 Harvard Museum of Natural History A3 166 John Hancock Conference Center H7 MBTA SUBWAY MAP Faneuil Hall G11 Harvard Square B2 Jurys Boston H8 Fenway Park H3 Harvard University B2 Langham Hotel, Boston G11 FleetBoston Pavilion K14 115 MIT E5 Lenox Hotel H6 FleetCenter E10 116 Marriott Courtyard H7 Freedom Trail • • • • • G9 117 HEALTHCARE Marriott’s Custom House G12 Government Center G10 Beth Israel Deaconess Med. Ctr. J2 180 Marriott Quincy L9 Granary Burial Ground G10 118 Boston Medical Center L8 181 The Midtown Hotel J6 Hatch Memorial Shell F7 Brigham & Women’s Hosp. K1 182 Millennium Bostonian Hotel F11 Haymarket (Open-air market) F11 Children’s Hospital K2 183 Milner Hotel H9 Horticultural Hall J5 119 Dana Farber Cancer Institute K1 184 NINE ZERO Hotel G10 Huntington Theatre Co./BU Theatre K5 Harvard School of Public Health L2 185 Omni Parker House G10 Hynes Convention Center H5 Joslin Diabetes Center K1 184 Onyx Hotel E10 Information Centers: Longwood Medical area K2 Radisson Hotel H8 Boston Common G9 117 Mass. Eye & Ear Infirmary E8 186 Ramada Inn Boston L9 Prudential Center H6 120 Mass. General Hospital E8 187 Residence Inn by Marriott on Tudor Wharf D10 National Park Service G11 121 New England Baptist Hosp. L1 188 Ritz Carlton Boston Common H10 Logan Airport (Terminals A & E) F16,G16 122 New England Med. Ctr. J9 189 Ritz Carlton Hotel G8 Institute of Contemporary Art H5 123 Spaulding Rehabilitation Hosp. D9 190 Seaport Hotel K14 International Place H12 124 Sheraton Boston H6 Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum K3 125 BOSTON LODGING Tage Inn Boston/Somerville A7 JFK Federal Building F10 126 Best Western Boston K1 Tremont House J9 JFK Library L10 127 Best Western Roadhouse Suites L8 Westin Hotel/Copley Plaza J7 John Hancock Tower H7 128 Best Western Terrace Inn G1 Wyndham Boston Hotel G12 Jordan Hall K5 Boston Harbor Hotel G12 Wyndham Chelsea A12 Jorge Hernandez Cultural Center K7 129 Boston Marriot/Copley Place J7 Joseph Moakley Courthouse J13 Boston Marriot/ Long Wharf F12 CAMBRIDGE LODGING Kenmore Square G3 Boston Park Plaza H8 Charles Hotel B1 Kings Chapel & Burial Gr. G10 130 Brookline Courtyard by Marriott H1 Hampton Inn/Cambridge C7 Lansdowne Street H4 135 The Bulfinch Clarion Hotel E9 Harvard Square Hotel B1 Louisburg Square F8 136 Charlesmark Hotel H7 Hotel Marlowe D7 Mass. College of Art K3 137 Club Quarters G11 Hotel at MIT D4 Museum of Afro-American History F9 100 The Colonnade J6 Hyatt Regency/Cambridge E3 Museum of Fine Arts K4 138 Comfort Inn & Suites Boston/Airport D16 Inn at Harvard B2 Museum of Science D8 139 Copley Square Hotel H7 Marriott/Cambridge Center E6 New England Aquarium G13 Days Inn Boston B1 Radisson Hotel/Cambridge D2 New England Conservatory of Music K5 140 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Bayside L9 Residence Inn by Marriott/Cambridge D6 New Old South Church G6 141 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Downtown J9 Royal Sonesta D7 North Station D9 Doubletree Guests Suites E1 Sheraton Commander A1

34 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 35 MUSEUMS graph of Louise Bourgeois, Deborah Kass’ silkscreen of Cindy a.m.–4 p.m.; Sat noon–5 p.m. Free admission. This museum is Local CONNECTIONS Sherman as Liza Minnelli, Elizabeth Peyton’s painting of David lauded for presenting interdisciplinary exhibits that spark new by Scott Roberto Hockney, Felix Gonzales-Torres’s textual portrait of Julie Ault and questions and is renowned for its European, Asian and American oston may sometimes get pegged as a Tacita Dean’s film Mario Merz; Momentum 3: Kanishka Raja, the collections. Gallery tours held every Fri at 12:30 p.m. Special Calcutta-born, Boston-based artist creates large-scale paintings of exhibit: Accommodations of Desire: Surrealist Works on Paper Bstodgy Brahmin outpost, but those who live strange, disorienting interior spaces that play with texture, pattern Collected by Julien Levy. here know the reality died out with Longfellow. and perspective. Special events: Jan 20 at 6:30 p.m.—Kanishka Immigration has changed the face of the city, while Raja shares her perspective on her latest work; Jan 26 at 5:30 The Museum of Afro-American History, African Meeting p.m.—The Three-Way Gaze explores aspects of how the three- House, 46 Joy St. (corner of Smith Court), Beacon Hill, 617-725- a quick trip down the Black Heritage Trail reveals way dialogue between artist, sitter and viewer has evolved, with 0022. www.afroammuseum.org. Open Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m. that African-Americans have been an important lecturer Anna Sparks. Free admission; donations welcome. Explore the history of part of the Hub since its earliest days. Diversity is Boston’s 19th-century African-American community at the African not just a buzz word in Beantown. To celebrate this, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 280 The Fenway, 617- Meeting House, the oldest African-American church still standing 566-1401. Open Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $10; week- in the United States. In addition, there are tour maps available for the Children’s Museum presents the new, per- ends $11; seniors $7; students with I.D. $5; children (under 18) the Black Heritage Trail. Special exhibit: Threads of Faith, recent manent exhibit Boston Black: A City Connects, free. Visitors named Isabella are admitted free. Commissioned by works from the Women of Color Quilters Network. allowing kids and their parents a chance to Boston aristocrat Isabella Stewart Gardner and modeled after a 15th-century Venetian palace, the museum exhibits 2,500 objects, Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. explore the multitude of Boston’s black cultures, including the works of Rembrandt, Botticelli, Raphael, Titian and Open Sat–Tue 10 a.m.–4:45 p.m.; Wed–Fri 10 a.m.–9:45 p.m. new and old, through interactive displays. Afro- Matisse. Special events: Jan 19 at noon—Images of Power: (Thu & Fri after 5 p.m., west wing only). Admission (includes two Caribbean culture is represented by an area where Paintings and Sculpture in the Titian Room, a discussion with visits in a 10-day period): $15; college students & seniors $13; museum educator Judy Murray, free with admission; Jan 22 at Thu & Fri after 5 p.m., $2 discount; Wed after 4 p.m., pay as you visitors can help decorate a Carnival parade float, 1:30 p.m.—Eye of the Beholder Lecture: Gardens and the Mind’s wish; children (under 18) $6.50 on weekdays before 3 p.m., free while the Colomado, a replica of a black Latino Eye with Patrick Chassé, landscape architect and curator of land- at all other times. Separate ticketing for Gund Gallery exhibit. The supermarket, offers a place to shop or linger to play scape for the museum, tickets (includes museum admission): $15, museum houses an outstanding collection of paintings, prints, dominoes. The little ones can even try different hair- seniors $11, students free. sculptures, furnishings and other artwork from ancient times through the present, and boasts the most comprehensive collec- styles at the African Queen Beauty Salon or sit in a John F. Kennedy Library and Museum, off Morrissey tion of Asiatic art in the world. Special exhibits: begins Jan 19— barber’s chair at the John Smith Barbershop. Leave Boulevard, next to UMass Boston, Dorchester, 1-877-616-4599. Sets, Series, and Suites: Contemporary Prints; begins Jan 24— it to the Children’s Museum to remind us just how www.jfklibrary.org. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $10; Damien Hirst; High Style and Hoopskirts: The 1850s; through students & seniors $8; children (13–17) $7; children (under 12) Jan 30—Cerith Wyn Evans; Josef Sudek: Poet with a Camera. colorful our fair city really is. Refer to listing, below. free. This museum portrays Kennedy’s life, leadership and legacy in 21 exhibits, three theaters, 20 video presentations and more. The Museum of the National Center of Afro-American Special exhibits: Presents for a President and First Lady, a dis- Artists, 300 Walnut Ave., Roxbury, 617-442-8614. Open educational and entertaining activities for children, including inter- play of 65 state gifts given to President and Mrs. Kennedy by Tue–Sun 1–5 p.m.; by appointment for groups. Admission: $4; I Boston 36 active exhibits such as Grandparent’s Attic, Construction Zone and foreign leaders from around the globe; through Jan 20— students & seniors $3. Housed in the former Oak Bend Mansion, N Science Playground that allow children to learn about science, his- Campaign!, an expanded look at Kennedy’s 1960 run for the a neo-Gothic structure built in the early 1870s, this museum tory and culture through hands-on experience. Special exhibits: White House, providing a unique glimpse into the day-to-day holds a slide archive and an extensive collection of African arti- D Cambridge 38 begins Jan 30—Think Tank, find new ways to solve old problems workings of a presidential campaign. Special events: Jan 17 at facts, prints and drawings; it also hosts national and international and exercise creative thinking through activities including puzzles, 10:30 a.m.—Celebrate!, nationally acclaimed storyteller and traveling exhibits. Special exhibit: What We Collect: Works from E mirror magic, optical illusions and more; Boston Black: A City author Len Cabral uses poetry, song, mime and humor to tell folk the Permanent Collection. X Beyond Boston 39 Connects celebrates Boston’s many black cultures, refer to story, tales that honor the legacy of Dr. Martin Luther King; at 12:30 above; Airplay, illustrates the amazing powers of air; access/ p.m.—Acclaimed soloist Wannetta Jackson performs a capella Museum of Science, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Open daily ABILITY, educates people about living with disabilities. Refer to songs in honor of Dr. King; at 2 p.m.—Eyes on the Prize from 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til 9 p.m. Admission: $14; seniors $12; BOSTON Kids Corner in Currently for special events. Revisited, Callie Crossley, Judy Richardson and Judith Vecchione, children (3–11) $11; children (under 3) free. Planetarium, laser producers of the award-winning documentary, screen segments show and Omni theater tickets: $8.50; seniors $7.50; children Boston CityPass, www.citypass.com. Visit six of Boston’s Commonwealth Museum, Massachusetts Archives Building, of the series and discuss its creation. (3–11) $6.50. Combination ticket prices and evening discounts best attractions for one low price. Save 50 percent and 220 Morrissey Blvd., 617-727-9268. Mon–Fri from 9 a.m.–5 p.m., available. Interactive exhibits covering all the sciences, plus avoid ticket lines. Booklets: $36.75; youth (3–17) $25.50. second and fourth Sat of the month ’til 3 p.m. (except holiday Larz Anderson Auto Museum, Larz Anderson Park, 15 Newton laser and astronomy shows in the Charles Hayden Planetarium Ticket booklets are available at the first attraction visited weekends). Free admission. Across from the JFK Library, this St., Brookline, 617-522-6547. Open Tue–Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. and films in the Mugar Omni Theater. Special exhibit: begins and are good for nine days. The CityPass ticket booklet museum houses the collection of the Massachusetts Archives and Admission: $5; students, seniors and children (6–18) $3; children Jan 22—Playing With Time, a unique look at events that hap- includes admission to six major attractions: the John F. is ideal for fans of history or genealogy. Special exhibits: John (5 and under) free. Admission to the Lawn Events: $7; children $5. pen too quickly or too slowly for humans to perceive. At the Kennedy Library and Museum, New England Aquarium, Adams: Atlas of American Independence; Archaeology of the Fee includes admission to all museum exhibits. The oldest collec- Mugar Omni Theater: Extreme; Forces of Nature; Roar: Lions of Museum of Fine Arts, Museum of Science, Skywalk Central Artery Project: Highway to the Past. tion of historic automobiles in the nation is displayed in the the Kalahari. Refer to Currently section under Film for complete Observatory at the Prudential Center and Harvard Museum owner’s original home. Special exhibit: L’automobile—A Century of Mugar Omni Theater listings. Showing at the Planetarium: of Natural History. Institute of Contemporary Art, 955 Boylston St., 617-266- Innovation and Style celebrates the French automobile industry. Mission to Saturn; The Sky Tonight. Special event: Jan 21–23— 5152. Open Tue, Wed & Fri noon–5 p.m., Thu ’til 9 p.m.; Sat & Sun Special event: Jan 18 at 7 p.m.—A presentation on the Corbin- Weekend of Flight, fun-filled, flight-related programming The Children’s Museum, Museum Wharf, 300 Congress 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $7; students & seniors $5; children Norton House of Oak Bluffs by architect Christopher Dallmus of includes a paper airplane-making contest hosted by Ken St., 617-426-8855. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til 9 (under 12) free; Thu 5–9 p.m. free. Installations, featuring Design Associates, tickets: $9. Blackburn, world record-holder for time aloft for a paper air- p.m. Admission: $9; children (2–15) & seniors $7; children contemporary paintings, sculptures and photographs, change reg- plane; screenings of the Omni film Skydance; and special per- (one-year-olds only) $2; children (under 1) free; Fri 5–9 ularly. Special exhibits: begins Jan 19—Likeness: Portraits of McMullen Museum of Art, Boston College, 140 Common- formances from the Boston Lyric Opera. Call for a schedule of p.m. (Family Night) $1. The museum features a variety of Artists by Other Artists, including Robert Mapplethorpe’s photo- wealth Ave., Chestnut Hill, 617-552-8100. Open Mon–Fri 11 events and ticket information.

36 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 37

MUSEUMS Sports Museum of New England, 5th and 6th floor premium Busch-Reisinger Museum, Werner Otto Hall, 32 Quincy St. Special exhibit through Jan 30—Media Test Wall: The Late Night operating museum boasts a brand-new wing with a 190-seat seating levels, FleetCenter, Causeway Street, 617-624-1234. (enter through the Fogg Art Museum), 617-495-9400. Open Triad by Jason Salavon. auditorium and a glass-covered atrium. The collection showcases Open Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission on Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Tours: Mon–Fri at 1 African, Asian, Pacific Island and American folk and decorative art; the hour only, until 3 p.m. Hours subject to change due to p.m. Admission: $6.50; seniors & college students $5; children The MIT Museum, 265 Mass. Ave., 617-253-4444. Tue–Fri 10 a maritime collection dating back to the museum’s earliest days; FleetCenter events, call ahead. Admission: $6; seniors & chil- (under 18) free; free Sat 10 a.m.–noon. A museum devoted to a.m.–5 p.m.; Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students, and the first collection of Native American art in the hemisphere. dren (6–17) $4; children (under 6) free. The Sports Museum promoting the enjoyment and critical understanding of Central seniors & youth (5–18) $2. Exhibits interpret themes and ideas Special exhibits: through Jan 9—Havana: Photographs by Robert showcases the rich sports heritage of New England through an and Northern European artists, with an emphasis on German- related to MIT research and activities. Special exhibits: The Polidori; Our Land: Contemporary Art from the Arctic; In Nature’s unparalleled collection of artifacts, multimedia and works of art. speaking countries. Clipper Ship Era; Visualizing Physics: Transforming Science Company; The Art of Shopping in China; Carved By Nature: Exhibits include the Boston Bruins Hall of Fame portraits, the Learning at MIT. Untamed Traditions in Chinese Decorative Art; Yin Yu Tang, the Boston Garden Penalty Box, New England’s Olympic Heroes and Fogg Art Museum, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495- stately 16-bedroom home of a prosperous Chinese merchant of much more. 9400. Tours: Mon–Fri at 11 a.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum Sackler Museum, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495-9400. the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), ticketed separately: $4. for hours and admission fees. The museum displays European and Tours: Mon–Fri at 2 p.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum for hours U.S.S. Constitution Museum, Charlestown Navy Yard, American masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the present and and admission fees. Designed by James Stirling, Britain’s famous The Rose Art Museum, Brandeis University, 415 South St., Charlestown, 617-426-1812. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Free hosts concerts and guided tours. Special exhibit through Jan post-modernist architect, the museum houses ancient Oriental Waltham, 781-736-3434. Tue–Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3; admission. The museum preserves the treasures of “Old 30—Prints: System, Style and Subject. and Islamic collections. Its lecture hall hosts concerts, lectures and museum members and children (under 16) free. The Rose houses Ironsides,” the U.S. Navy’s flagship and the world’s oldest films. Special exhibits begins Jan 22—The Sport of Kings: Art of Brandeis’ collection of modern and contemporary art, widely rec- remaining commissioned warship. Includes weapons, docu- Harvard Museum of Natural History, 26 Oxford St., 617-495- the Hunt in Iran and India; Marks of Enlightenment, Traces of ognized as the finest collection of its kind in the area, with pieces ments, journals and more. Interactive exhibits allow visitors to 3045. Daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $7.50; college students & Devotion: Japanese Calligraphy and Painting from the Sylvan by artists including de Kooning, Johns, Rauschenberg and Warhol. load and fire a cannon, try out a sailor’s sleeping quarters and seniors $6; children (3–18) $5; free Sun 9 a.m.–noon. Among the Barnet and William Burto Collection; A Compelling Legacy: Special exhibit begins Jan 27—DreamingNow, features the virtually command the Constitution in battle. museum’s 17 galleries is the internationally acclaimed Ware Masterworks of East Asian Painting. works of nine artists from around the globe that depict the world Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, a unique collection of dreams through mixed mediums. of over 3,000 glass flower models created between 1886 and 1 CAMBRIDGE 1936. Special exhibit: Origins: Life’s First 3 Billion Years. BEYOND BOSTON Salem Witch Museum, 19 /2 Washington Square North, Salem, 978-744-1692. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $6.50; seniors Due to limited parking, it’s best to take the Red MIT List Visual Arts Center, 20 Ames St., 617-253-4680. Concord Museum, 200 Lexington Road, Concord, 978-369- $6; children (6–14) $4.50; group rates available. Life-size stage Line when traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall Tue–Sun noon–6 p.m.; Fri ’til 8 p.m. Free admission. One of 9763. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–4 p.m., Sun 1–4 p.m. Admission: $8; settings and historically accurate narration recreate the hysteria squares. The Cambridge Discovery Booth located Boston’s premier showcases for contemporary art, the List Center seniors & students with I.D. $7; children (6–17) $5; family rates of the infamous Salem Witch Trials and executions of 1692. at the Harvard Square “T” entrance provides addi- reflects MIT’s position as a cutting-edge research institution by available. Ample free parking on Cambridge Turnpike. Re-live Translations available in Japanese, French, German, Italian and tional information. presenting works from the world’s leading contemporary artists. Concord’s history, from Native American habitation and Spanish. Special exhibit: Witches: Evolving Perceptions. European settlement to the days of Emerson, Thoreau, the Alcotts and Hawthorne. Special exhibit begins Jan 29— Connecticut Valley Furniture.

DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park, 51 Sandy Pond Road, Lincoln, 781-259-8355. Museum: Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $9; seniors, students & children (6–12) $6. Sculpture Park: open sunrise to sunset, free admission. Tour one of the largest contemporary art museums and the only permanent public sculpture park in New England. Special exhibits: Pretty Sweet: The Sentimental Image in Contemporary Art; Abstract Elements: The fresh & honest Dr. Beatrice H. Barrett Collection of Art.

Museum of Bad Art, Dedham Community Theater, 580 High St., Dedham, 617-325-8224. Mon–Fri 6–10 p.m.; Sat, Sun & holidays 1–10 p.m. Free admission. The world’s only institution dedicated to preserving, exhibiting and celebrating bad art in all its forms and all its glory. This irreverent, hilarious exhibit would make even your upbeat grade-school art teacher cringe with horror. serving breakfast, lunch, National Heritage Museum, 33 Marrett Road, Lexington, 781- supper and brunch 861-6559. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Free admission. Dedicated to presenting exhibitions on a wide variety of topics in American history and popular culture in an effort to preserve our national heritage. Special exhibits: begins Jan 29— Revere’s Ride and Longfellow’s Legend; Deep Inside the Blues: Photographs by Margo Cooper; The Western Pursuit of the American Dream: Selections from the Collection of Kenneth W. Rendell; Satisfaction Guaranteed: Mail-Order Catalogs in the 617.661.5005 United States. at the charles hotel

Peabody Essex Museum, East India Square, Salem, 1-866-745- harvard square 1876. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $13; seniors $11; students www.charleshotel.com $9; children (16 and under) free. The nation’s oldest continually

38 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 39

SIGHTSEEING SWEET Tooth AIRPORT SPECIAL by Christine Celli DOWNTOWN TO LOGAN: $20 BACK BAY TO LOGAN: $25 emember watching in envy as Charlie, gold- Ren ticket in hand, got to tour Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory? Unfortunately, the flying glass elevator and Oompa Loompas exist only in the world of fiction. But if you fancy yourself a sugar “The Best Ride fanatic, you can get a taste of chocolate para- dise right here in Boston. Every Saturday and in Town” Sunday at 11:30 a.m. and 12:45 p.m., the Old Town Trolley stops at the corner of South Charles and Boylston streets and gathers up guests for a three hour tour of the best sweet spots in the city. The Boston Chocolate Tour starts at the top—as in the Top of the Hub— where you’ll sample new divine dessert cre- ations each week. Then it’s on to more treats at the birthplace of Boston cream pie, the Omni Parker House hotel. The journey concludes at the Langham Hotel’s decadent Chocolate Bar Your own Private Limousine and Chauffeur Buffet, featuring more than 25 exquisite delica- cies. You may not need a golden ticket, but from your downtown hotel to Logan Airport... bring a big appetite. Refer to listing, page 43. N Luxurious Lincoln Town Car Fleet Hub. The following is a summary of some of Greater I Neighborhoods 40 Boston’s most prominent areas. N Courteous, Reliable Service N Sights of Interest 42 Back Bay. Once a low-lying harbor basin flooded at high tide, the Back Bay was transformed by the massive landfill projects of the Tours and Trails 43 19th century. The project took some 50 years to complete, but the N Transportation to Theatres, Restaurants and D result was one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the world. the Casinos Cambridge 44 Marked by its regal brownstones, tree-lined thoroughfares and E alphabetically arranged street names, the Back Bay is home to Wildlife 45 Newbury Street (“the East Coast’s own Rodeo Drive”), Copley N Shopping and Sightseeing Tours Square and the Boston Public Library. X Ice Skating 45 Tours include Cambridge, Concord and Lexington, Beacon Hill. The Hub’s reputation as one of the most European of Salem, Plymouth, Newport,Cape Cod and Cape Ann American cities is most likely earned by the neighborhood of Beacon Hill. Louisburg Square takes you back to London circa 1600, NEIGHBORHOODS and the area’s narrow cobblestone streets, brownstones and gas-lit Equally attractive rates from hotels outside of streetlamps all add to its “old world” charm. Beacon Hill boasts the Boston Proper, the area visitors frequent the quaint shops of Charles Street, the nearby Boston Common and the Boston to the Logan airport. All Major Credit Cards Accepted most, is defined by seven adjoining communi- Massachusetts State House with its eye-catching golden dome. ties, many of which were created out of the landfill projects of the 1800s: Back Bay, Beacon Brookline. The birthplace of former President John F. Kennedy, this Hill, Chinatown, the Fenway, the Financial Green Line-accessible borough, which is practically part of Boston, District, the North End and the South End. But has also spawned such prominent personalities as Mike Wallace of the city’s limits stretch out to include several “60 Minutes” fame and late night talk show kingpin Conan O’Brien. more residential neighborhoods with unique cul- It is also home to the art-house movie palace Coolidge Corner tures and personalities of their own. And just Theatre, a multitude of diverse dining options and bucolic Larz Boston Town Car north of the Charles River, “T”-accessible from Anderson Park, which contains an auto museum. Boston, are the cities of Cambridge and For Reservations, call (617) 782-4000 Somerville, which teem with academia, culture Cambridge. This city on the other side of the Charles River is home and entertainment options that rival those of the to two world-renowned institutions of higher learning: Harvard [email protected] Toll Free (888) 765-LIMO 40 PANORAMA SIGHTSEEING University, the oldest college in the country, and the Massachusetts Activity focuses around two commercial centers, Union and Davis Check out “Whites of Their Eyes,” a dramatic multimedia presenta- many to be one of the most beautiful skyscrapers in the world. The Institute of Technology. A bastion of American liberalism, Cambridge squares, which feature a wide array of ethnic restaurants, cafes, tion of the Battle of Bunker Hill, one of the first major battles of the building houses the headquarters of its namesake, insurance giant is also known for its diverse squares—Harvard, Central, Kendall, galleries and shops. Revolution. Or climb the nearby Bunker Hill Monument, a 221-foot John Hancock Financial. Unfortunately, the observatory on the 60th Porter and Inman—which boast a flock of cultural, historic, shop- granite obelisk. floor was closed after September 11, 2001. ping and dining attractions. South End. Every city has a neighborhood that is a locus for cut- ting-edge art and culture. In New York, it’s SoHo. In San Francisco, Charles River Esplanade, 617-635-4305. This tree-lined park The Mary Baker Eddy Library, 200 Mass. Ave., 617-450-7000. Charlestown. This neighborhood’s legacy dates back to the it’s the Haight. In Boston, it’s the South End. Brimming with art gal- along the Charles River basin is a popular spot for leisurely strolls Open Tue–Sun from 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Thu & Fri ’til 9 p.m. Revolutionary War, when it was the site of the Battle of Bunker Hill. leries, unique shops, bookstores and some of the hottest restau- and picnics as well as recreational activities. Sports enthusiasts are Admission: $5; seniors, students with ID and youth (6–17) $3; chil- The battle is memorialized by the Bunker Hill Monument, a tower- rants in the city, the South End is definitely where it’s at. drawn to the 17-mile biking, jogging and walking path between the dren (under 6) and members free. Home to the world-famous ing white obelisk overlooking the harbor. Charlestown also hosts Museum of Science and Watertown, while others flock to the water Mapparium, a three-story stained-glass globe depicting the world the U.S.S. Constitution, which is docked at the Boston National to sail, windsurf, canoe or kayak. The nearby DCR Hatch Shell fre- as it existed in 1934, which guests can walk through. Visitors to the Historical Park. Long considered an insular Irish community, SIGHTS OF INTEREST quently hosts concerts and films, as well as the famous Boston library can follow Mary Baker Eddy’s quest for insight and embark Charlestown has grown more diverse thanks to real estate devel- Pops concerts. on one of their own through interactive exhibits in the Quest opers and the opening of several popular bars and restaurants, Adams National Historical Park, 1250 Hancock St., Quincy, Gallery, or try out a “desk job” at the Pulitzer Prize-winning such as Todd English’s landmark eatery, Olives. eight miles south of Boston, 617-770-1175. Take the “T” to the Custom House Tower, 3 McKinley Square, 617-310-6300. Free Christian Science Monitor. Quincy Center stop on the Red Line. Visitor Center is open, Tue–Fri historical tours daily at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. (no 10 a.m. tour on Sat). Chinatown. Once regarded as a pale version of the Chinatowns in from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Trolley tours and sites closed ’til spring. Boston’s first skyscraper, the Custom House stands high over New England Holocaust Memorial, Congress Street near New York and San Francisco, Boston’s focal point for Asian and Tickets: $3; children (under 16) free. This oft-overlooked historical Boston Harbor as one of the city’s most impressive landmarks. Faneuil Hall. This haunting memorial features six luminous glass Asian-American culture contains a wealth of shops selling Asian gem offers insight into the lives of U.S. presidents John Adams and Crowned by its distinctive clock tower and restored with modern towers etched with the six million prisoner numbers of those who imports and groceries, as well as countless eateries offering son John Quincy Adams. Tours stop at the birthplaces of both presi- luxuries, the building epitomizes the preservation of Boston’s his- perished in the Holocaust. Visitors can walk under the towers and regional cuisine and late hours, making it one of the best places to dents, as well as “The Old House,” which was home to five genera- toric architecture. Today, the Marriott Corporation operates this read the dramatic stories of the victims and heroes of this tremen- go for an after-midnight meal. tions of the Adams family. Stop by the Visitor Center to register and landmark. dous human tragedy. purchase tickets. Downtown/Financial District. One of Boston’s most active urban Emerald Necklace, parks throughout Boston, 617-635-7487. Free The Skywalk Observatory at the Prudential Center, 617-859- centers, this area encompasses Government Center, the Financial Arnold Arboretum, 125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain, 617-524-1718. guided tours by appointment only. This world-famous string of parks 0648. Open daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Skywalk kiosk closes at 6 p.m. District, Downtown Crossing and the newly dubbed Ladder District, Grounds open year-round, sunrise to sunset. Free admission. Visitor that runs through the city was the brainchild of renowned landscape Admission (including a headset audio tour of points of interest): an area known for its wide array of bars and restaurants that cater Center open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sun architect Frederick Law Olmsted, and took almost 20 years to com- $9.50; seniors $7; children (under 12) $6.50. From the 50th floor of to the after-work and pre-theater crowds. Downtown Crossing is a noon–4 p.m. This 265-acre tree sanctuary designed by Emerald plete. The six green spaces—Back Bay Fens, Riverway, Olmsted the Prudential Tower, you can look down on the best of Boston: the blend of commerce and culture, with street vendors and shopping Necklace architect Frederick Law Olmsted opened in 1872. Now a Park, Jamaica Pond, Arnold Arboretum and Franklin Park—stretch historic Back Bay, Boston Harbor and the Charles River. It’s the only at department stores like Macy’s and the world-famous Filene’s National Historic Landmark, the arboretum and its gardens contain five miles from the Charles River to Dorchester and make up over place in Boston offering a 360-degree view. On a clear day, you Basement standing alongside historical sites such as the Old South more than 7,000 varieties of trees, shrubs and flowers, all labeled 1,000 acres of parkland. The necklace is listed on the National can see all the way to New Hampshire and Vermont. SEE LOCATOR Meeting House and Old City Hall. Government Center, home to the for your perusal. Register of Historic Places. Although not officially part of the Emerald #9 ON CENTER MAP. current City Hall and its surrounding Plaza, lies adjacent to historic Necklace, Boston Common and the Public Garden are sometimes 1 Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Boston Athenaeum, 10 ⁄2 Beacon St., 617-227-0270. Public considered the starting points, and are connected to the Necklace Trinity Church, Copley Square, 617-536-0944. Open daily from 9 tours: Tue & Thu at 3 p.m. Reservations required. One of the oldest by the Commonwealth Avenue Mall. a.m.–6 p.m.; tours available. Built in 1877, this house of worship, a The Fenway. Named for the Fens, the green parkland that winds and most distinguished private libraries in the United States, the combination of Victorian, Gothic and French Romanesque styles, is its way through the neighborhood, the Fenway is home to Fenway Athenaeum was founded in 1807. For nearly half a century, it was The First Church of Christ Scientist, 175 Huntington Ave., 617- one of the great masterpieces of American church architecture. The Park, the legendary ballpark that hosts Beantown’s beloved Red the unchallenged center of intellectual life in Boston, and by 1851 it 450-3790. Services: Sun at 10 a.m. The original Mother Church building is located in Copley Square adjacent to the I.M. Pei- Sox. It is also a mecca of clubs (on Lansdowne Street), sports bars had become one of the five largest libraries in the country. built in 1894 is at the heart of the Christian Science Center, situat- designed John Hancock Tower, itself a contemporary architectural and restaurants. Several of the city’s prominent cultural institutions, ed on 14 acres in the Back Bay. The Romanesque structure is masterpiece. The church is currently in the midst of a $53 million including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Boston Public Garden, bordered by Arlington, Charles, Beacon made from New Hampshire granite with stained glass windows preservation initiative. Museum and Symphony Hall, are located nearby. and Boylston streets. Open daily dawn to dusk. Established in illustrating Biblical events. Also see listing for the Mary Baker Eddy 1837, the Public Garden is the nation’s first public botanical gar- Library. Jamaica Plain. One of the city’s most diverse areas, “J.P.” con- den. Its 24 acres are filled with scenic and diverse greenery, as TOURS AND TRAILS tains thriving Latin-American, African-American, Irish and gay com- well as sculptures, including one that commemorates the popular Forest Hills Cemetery, 95 Forest Hills Ave., 617-524-0128. Open munities and is home to Jamaica Pond and Arnold Arboretum, two children’s book Make Way for Ducklings. Other fixtures include the daily from 8:30 a.m. to dusk. Created in 1848, this cemetery serves Boston Art Tours, 617-732-3920. Call for full tour schedule. of the city’s finest green spaces. Once a “country resort” area for Lagoon, home to the famed Swan Boats from April through Labor as the final resting place of Eugene O’Neill, Anne Sexton, e.e. Boston Art Tours offers various excursions to area museums and Boston Brahmins, the neighborhood boasts striking 19th-century Day, and a suspension bridge designed as a miniature replica of cummings, William Lloyd Garrison and former Boston Celtic Reggie galleries that highlight different historical time periods. Families mansions on the streets closest to the Pond and eclectic shops and the Brooklyn Bridge. Lewis. The 275 acres of twisting paths also contain sculptural may choose from age-appropriate tours offering lively descriptions restaurants along Centre Street. treasures, an arboretum, a “library” of life stories and an open-air of works to help further the understanding of art. Boston Public Library, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, 617- museum. North End. Boston’s own “Little Italy,” the North End’s uniquely 536-5400. Mon–Thu 9 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri & Sat ’til 5 p.m.; Sun 1–5 Boston Chocolate Tour, 617-269-3626. Every Sat & Sun at European character is exemplified by narrow streets, cobblestone p.m. Free admission. Art & Architecture tours offered Mon at 2:30 Harrison Gray Otis House, 141 Cambridge St., 617-227-3956. 11:30 a.m. and 12:45 p.m. Tickets: $60. Departs from the Trolley sidewalks and brick rowhouses. Although gentrification has p.m.; Tue & Thu at 6 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 11 a.m. The first publicly Tours: Wed–Sun 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m. every 30 minutes. Admission: Stop Store at the corner of Boylston and South Charles Streets. changed the face of the neighborhood, the North End is still home supported municipal library in the world hosts one million visitors a $8; seniors $4; students $2.50; free to kids, Historic New England This three-hour, fully-guided tour stops at various restaurants and to the best Italian dining in the city. The Old North Church, the Paul year who come to view this architectural masterpiece and its col- members and Boston residents. Built in 1796 for Harrison Gray Otis confectioners city-wide, sharing fun facts and decadent desserts Revere House and Copp’s Hill Burial Ground—all of which are lection of more than five million books. Film festivals, exhibits and and his wife, Sally, this grand mansion is a brilliant example of with guests. The grand finale is provided by the Langham Hotel’s stops on the Freedom Trail—are located here. children’s programs run throughout the year. high-style Federal elegance. Tours offer insight into the social, busi- Chocolate Bar Buffet, offering more than 25 enticing, all-you-can- ness and family life of the post-Revolution American elite. eat delicacies. Refer to story, page 40. Somerville. Just northeast of Cambridge, the city of Somerville Bunker Hill Pavilion, Boston National Historical Park Visitors has long attracted students, artists and musicians with its low Center, Charlestown, 617-242-5601. Located yards from the U.S.S. John Hancock Tower, 200 Clarendon St., 617-572-6429. Rising Black Heritage Trail, 617-742-5415. Tours: Mon–Sat at 10 a.m., rents, proximity to Tufts and Harvard universities and easy access Constitution. Visitor center and bookstore open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 62 stories into the sky, this I.M. Pei-designed, sliver-of-glass sky- noon and 2 p.m. Call at least 24 hours in advance for reservations. to the T, adding a creative flair to this traditionally blue-collar area. Monument open daily from 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Free admission. scraper is New England’s tallest building and is considered by A guided tour through the north side of Beacon Hill, including the

42 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 43 SIGHTSEEING homes of politicians and entrepreneurs; the African Meeting House, and culture, hosts award-winning culinary walking tours through Isabella Stewart Gardner and Winslow Homer. The cemetery is also in the Boston area. Refer to Film in Currently for complete IMAX built in 1806; the oldest standing house built by an African- one of the nation’s oldest Italian-American communities. an arboretum, sculpture garden and wildlife sanctuary. theater listings and Kids Corner for special events. American (1797); and the home of Lewis and Harriet Hayden, who harbored runaway slaves. Maps are available at the Museum of Old Town Trolley Tour of Boston, 617-269-7010. Departs every Tory Row (Brattle Street). One of the nation’s most beautiful res- Afro-American History. 15–20 minutes daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: $26; seniors & idential streets, Tory Row is the site of Loyalist mansions and their ICE SKATING students $24; children (under 12) free. With 16 stops throughout elegant neighbors from every period of American architecture. Boston Irish Heritage Trail, various sites Downtown and in the the city, including the New England Aquarium, U.S.S. Constitution Charles Hotel Ice Skating Rink, 1 Bennett St., Cambridge, 617- Back Bay, 617-696-9880. Maps available at Boston Common and Museum, the Trolley Stop Store on the corner of South Charles and 864-1200. Daily from 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Fees: $5; children (under 12) Prudential Visitor Information Centers. www.irishheritagetrail.com. A Boylston streets, and most major hotels (see your concierge), WILDLIFE $3; rental skates $5. This 2,900-square-foot, illuminated outdoor self-guided, three-mile walking tour that covers 300 years of histo- patrons can enjoy a 100-minute, fully narrated sightseeing tour of ice skating rink marks its first season and boasts rink-side refresh- ry as it takes you through Boston’s downtown, North End, Beacon more than 100 points of interest aboard the orange-and-green, all- Franklin Park Zoo, One Franklin Park Road, Franklin Park, 617- ments from the New England-influenced restaurant Henrietta’s Hill and Back Bay neighborhoods. Learn about famous politicians, weather trolley. 541-LION. Open daily from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission: $9.50; sen- Table, including hot toddies and vanilla-infused hot chocolate. artists and war heroes and the rich tradition of rebellion, leadership iors $8; children (2–15) $5; children (under 2) free. Home to more and triumph that personifies the Boston Irish. Photo Walks, 617-851-2273. Tours: daily at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. than 210 species, including many endangered animals. Roam the Frog Pond Ice Skating Rink, 617-635-4505. Mon 10 a.m.–5 Call for reservations and departure locations. Tickets: $25; children Australian Outback Trail with wallabies and kangaroos; explore the p.m.; Tue–Thu and Sun 10 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri & Sat 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Fenway Park Tours, 4 Yawkey Way, 617-226-6666. Tours daily (under 12) $10. Explore Boston on a photographic journey that Tropical Forest and see the gorillas; marvel at the lions at Kalahari Fees: $3; children (under 13) free; rental skates $5; skate sharpen- each hour from 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Tickets: $10; seniors $9; children reveals the scenic treasures of Beacon Hill, the Freedom Trail and Kingdom; and visit zebras, ostriches, ibex and wildebeests at ing $5; lockers $1. Ice skating on Boston Common’s Frog Pond has (under 14) $8. Tours originate at the Souvenir Store located on the waterfront. Each walking tour provides fascinating historical Serengeti Crossing. become a staple of wintertime in Boston. The heated skate house Yawkey Way across from Service Gate D, rain or shine. Have you information and simple, creative tips on composing artistic photo- offers hot chocolate, snacks and music. dreamt of walking across the field where Red Sox legends spent graphs of area attractions. New England Aquarium, Central Wharf, 617-973-5200. Open their glory days? This tour offers a behind-the-scenes look at Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sat & Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Admission: Larz Anderson Skating Rink, 25 Newton St., Brookline, 617- America’s oldest active Major League ballpark, including a glimpse Samuel Adams Brewery Tour: Drink in a Little History, 30 $15.95; seniors $13.95; children (3–11) $8.95; children (under 3) 739-7518. Thu from 10 a.m.–noon; Fri 7:30–9:30 p.m.; Sat & Sun behind the famed “Green Monster.” Germania St., Jamaica Plain, 617-368-5080. Tours: Wed at 2 p.m.; free. Refer to Currently section under Film for IMAX theater listings. noon–5 p.m. Fees: $5; rental skates $4.50. Named one of the most Thu at 2 p.m.; Fri at 2 and 5:30 p.m.; Sat at noon, 1 and 2 p.m.; Combination ticket prices available. Dedicated to advancing knowl- romantic destinations in the Hub by Boston magazine, Larz The Freedom Trail Foundation’s Freedom Trail Players, one-hour tours include samples (ID required). Tickets: $2; donation edge of the world of water, this outstanding aquatic zoo features a Anderson Park was the former residence of the Anderson family departing from the Visitor Center on Boston Common, 617-357- given to a local charity. Learn about the art of brewing beer and 187,000-gallon Giant Ocean Tank containing a Caribbean coral reef and is now a 64-acre public park that is home to the Museum of 8300. Call or visit www.thefreedomtrail.org for tour schedule. taste the rich malts and spicy hops on this tour of the original with sharks, sea turtles, moray eels and other aquatic life. Be sure Transportation, several themed gardens and historical artifacts. The Tickets: $12; children (12 and under) $6. Explore the Freedom Trail Samuel Adams brewery. to visit the popular penguin habitat. Special exhibit: Amazing Jellies. skating pavilion sits atop a wooded hill in the middle of what was with costumed actors portraying famous patriots such as James The adjacent Simons 3D IMAX Theater is the first theater of its kind once an Italian garden designed by Charles A. Platt in 1901. Otis, Abigail Adams and William Dawes in this 90-minute tour. Stops include the Park Street Church, the Boston Massacre Site, CAMBRIDGE the Old State House and Faneuil Hall. Due to limited parking, it is best to take the Red Line Harpoon Brewery Tour, 306 Northern Ave., 1-888-HARPOON ext. when traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall squares. 522. Tours: Tue–Sat at 3 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 1 and 3 p.m. Free The Cambridge Discovery Booth located at the Harvard admission. This waterfront institution is one of Boston’s only micro- Square “T” entrance provides additional information. breweries. Visitors gather at the Tap Room, which overlooks the brewery, for 30- to 45-minute tours of the plant. Cambridge Common/Old Burying Ground. A grazing pasture and cemetery for Puritan Newtowne, as well as a favorite meeting The Innovation Odyssey, departing from 28 State St. (at 2 p.m.), spot for public figures and a tent site for the Continental Army. Early free shuttle from Museum of Science (at 1:45 p.m.), 617-350- college presidents and town residents were buried in “God’s Acre” 0358. Tours: 2nd Sat of every month at 2 p.m. Tickets: $25; stu- across from the Common. dents (with ID) $15; children (under 10) $10; family rate $50. This two-hour journey showcases Boston as the birthplace of such Christ Church. This 1761 Tory house of worship was utilized as a innovations as the telephone, the Internet and modern surgery. Colonial barracks during the American Revolution. Board a luxury motorcoach to visit Boston’s hidden historical treas- ures, including the MIT Museum, Harvard Medical School and the First Church Unitarian/Universalist. Harvard College provided Ether Dome at Mass General Hospital. DVD program included. the pews for its students in this 1833 building erected for the then- newly founded Unitarian Church. The Literary Trail, departing from the Omni Parker House, 60 School St., 617-350-0358. Guided tours: 2nd Sat of every month at Harvard and Radcliffe Yards. The centers of two institutions 9 a.m., rain or shine. Tickets: $30; children (under 12) $26. Group that have played major educational roles since Harvard’s founding tours also available. Tickets include entrance to all museums on the in 1636. trail. This 20-mile tour includes stops at the Boston Athenaeum; the Omni Parker House; Cambridge’s Longfellow House; the Concord Harvard Square/Old Cambridge. The center of Cambridge activi- Museum, which houses Ralph Waldo Emerson’s study; and famed ty since the 17th century, the Square is home to Harvard University, Walden Pond. historic buildings, bookstores, cafes, restaurants and shops.

North End Market Tour, 64 Cross St., take the T to Haymarket, Mount Auburn Cemetery, 580 Mount Auburn St., Cambridge, 617-523-6032. www.northendmarkettours.com. Wed & Sat 10 617-547-7105. Open daily from 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Founded in a.m.–1 p.m. and 2–5 p.m.; Fri 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3–6 p.m. 1831 by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, Mount Auburn Reservations required. Custom tours for groups available. Tickets: was the first landscaped cemetery in the country. Many prominent $47.25 per person. Michele Topor, an authority on Italian cuisine Americans are buried here, including Henry Wadsworth Longfellow,

44 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 45

FREEDOM TRAIL church was described by Henry James as “the most inter- THE REDCOATS ARE THE COMING—Men costumed esting mass of brick and mortar in America.” as British loyalists march in formation along the Freedom Old Granary Burying Ground (4). Tremont Street next to FREEDOM Trail near Faneuil Hall. Park Street Church, 617-635-4505. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. This historic cemetery, formerly the town granary, is TRAIL the final resting place of John Hancock, Paul Revere, Robert The Freedom Trail begins Treat Paine, Samuel Adams, Peter Faneuil, James Otis and at the Boston Common the victims of the Boston Massacre. A stone inscribed Information Kiosk where you “Mary Goose” (a.k.a. Elizabeth Goose) allegedly marks the can obtain a free guide or rent grave of Mother Goose. a handheld self-guided audio tour complete with sound King’s Chapel and Burying Ground (5). Tremont and effects and anecdotes for $15, School streets, 617-227-2155. Open daily 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; $12 for each additional adult closed Mon. Services: Sun at 11 a.m., Wed at 12:15 p.m. and $10 for children. Free 90- Burying Ground open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Tours: Mon and minute, park ranger-guided Thu–Sat 9:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.; Tue and Wed 1–4 p.m. Visitors tours wil resume in the spring are reminded that King’s Chapel is a house of worship. The from the Boston National chapel was established in 1687 as the first Anglican congre- Historical Park Visitors Center gation in Boston. The second chapel, built in 1754, became at the corner of State and the first Unitarian church in America after the Revolution. Devonshire streets. First come, first serve. Arrive 30 Site of the first public school and Ben Franklin’s statue minutes prior to tour. Call 617- (6). On School Street, marked by a column and commemora- 242-5642 for more informa- tive plaque. On April 13, 1635 the town voted to establish the tion. The number accompany- first public school in the country (the forerunner of the Boston ing each site listed below Latin School). Nearby is Benjamin Franklin’s statue, built in refers to the site’s location as 1856, the first portrait-statue erected in the United States. shown on Panorama’s map (see facing page). Site of the Old Corner Bookstore (7). School and Washington streets, 617-367-4000. Constructed as an Boston Common (1). Set aside in apothecary in 1718, the ground floor was later used as a 1634 as a military training field and bookstore that became the center of literary Boston and the grazing pasture, the Common is the meeting place of such notables as Emerson, Hawthorne, rail Foundation oldest public park in America. The Longfellow and Thoreau. Paul Revere House (12). 19 North Square, Hanover Street, park served as quarters for British 617-523-2338. Open daily 9:30 a.m.–4:15 p.m. Admission: $2.50; as well as Colonial troops, and Old South Meeting House (8). 310 Washington St., 617- students & seniors with I.D. $2; children (5–17) $1; (under 5) free. housed Civil War regiments. The 482-6439. Open Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sat & Sun ’til 5 p.m. The oldest home in Boston, built about 1680, was occupied by

© The Freedom T British Army set out for the start of Admission: $5; students & seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; children Paul Revere from 1770 to 1800. the Revolutionary War from what is (under 6) free. This building housed many town meetings, the most Boston’s own “yellow brick road” is actually a red brick line now Park Square. famous of which triggered the Boston Tea Party. Permanent exhibit: Old North Church (13). 193 Salem St., 617-523-6676. Open weaving through the city and connecting 16 key historic sites. Voices of Protest. daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Sun services at 9 a.m. & 4 p.m. Known as Each one tells a piece of the dramatic story of America’s The State House (2). Beacon Christ Church and erected in 1723, this is Boston’s oldest standing Street, top of Beacon Hill facing Old State House (9). Corner of Washington and State streets, church, where two lanterns were hung on April 18, 1775, signaling birth. These sites are not amusement park replicas; they are Boston Common, 617-727-3676. 617-720-1713. Open daily 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $5; stu- the Redcoats’ departure by sea for Lexington and Concord. the actual places where Revolutionary War-era patriots like Open Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–4 p.m., dents & seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; children (under 6) free. Paul Revere and John Adams once gathered. The Hub’s most except holidays. Guided tours Built in 1713, this seat of colonial government was the center of Copp’s Hill Burial Ground (14). Hull Street. Set out in 1660, Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–3:30 p.m. The activity for such patriots as John Hancock, and Samuel and John Copp’s Hill was Boston’s second cemetery. Many remarkable peo- famous attraction, the Freedom Trail is walked by some three famous golden dome of the State Adams. It was from the east balcony that the Declaration of ple are interred here, including Increase Mather, his son Cotton, million visitors every year. The two-and-a-half-mile red brick House marks the government seat Independence was first read in Boston. Cotton’s son Samuel Mather and Edmund Hartt, builder of the pathway unites historic markers from the State House, with of the Commonwealth of U.S.S. Constitution. Massachusetts. The cornerstone Boston Massacre Site (10). State Street in front of the Old State its brilliant gold dome, to the 204-year-old U.S.S. was laid by Samuel Adams, and the House. At the next intersection below the State House, a ring of Bunker Hill Monument (15). Breed’s Hill, Charlestown, 617- Constitution, a.k.a. “Old Ironsides.” In between, there’s the building stands on land bought from cobblestones marks the site of the clash between a jeering Boston 242-5641. Climb the monument from 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Lodge Old Granary Burying Ground, the final resting place for John Hancock. The red brick portion crowd and a British guard of nine soldiers on March 5,1770. and museum open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. The site of the historic American patriots like John Hancock, Paul Revere and James was designed by the legendary battle of June 1775. architect Charles Bulfinch. Faneuil Hall (11). Merchants Row and Faneuil Hall Square, 617- Otis; the Old South Meeting House and Faneuil Hall, where 523-1300. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Historical talks given daily U.S.S. Constitution (16). Charlestown Navy Yard, Charlestown, some of the most fiery debates of the Revolution took place; Park Street Church (3). Corner of every half hour 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Military museum open 617-242-5670. Free guided tours Thu–Sun from 9:30 a.m.–3:50 and the Old North Church, where two lanterns were hung to Park and Tremont streets, 617-523- Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–3:30 p.m. “The Cradle of Liberty” combines in p.m. This 44-gun frigate is the oldest commissioned warship in 3383. Sunday services at 8:30 & 11 one building a free enterprise market on the first floor with a free the world. The U.S.S. Constitution Museum, located adjacent to the signal Paul Revere during his famous midnight ride. a.m. and 5 p.m. Built in 1809, this marketplace for the exchange of ideas upstairs. ship, is open daily from 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Call 617-426-1812.

46 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 47 ESTAURANT GUIDE R HIGH WINTER I American 49 : Chinese 51 5s WARMERS Eastern Mediterranean 51 If Jack Frost won’t stop nipping at French/French-American 51 your nose, a warm drink in a cozy N French Country 53 locale is just the thing to help Indian 53 you nip back. From sinfully rich International 53 hot cocoa, to grown-up treats Irish 54 like hot cider and mulled wine, countless Boston-area haunts Italian 55 D have just the thing to warm the cockles Japanese/Sushi 56 of your heart. Here are five of our favorites. Mediterranean 57 Museum Dining 57 HENRIETTA’S TABLE, 1 Bennett St., E New England 57 1Cambridge, 617-661-5005. With its new ice Seafood 58 skating rink now open, this New England- inspired eatery is in full-swing, offering rink- Southwestern 60 side refreshments including the barn burner: Steakhouses 60 hot apple cider with Southern Comfort, lemon X 60 Vietnamese rind and a cinnamon stick. NIGHTLIFE Noshing by Christine Celli any of us may entertain the fantasy of a night on the town, Sinatra-style, complete with OAK ROOM, Fairmont Copley Plaza, 138 Mswing dancing and a four-course meal, but let’s face it: the whole dinner and dancing thing AMERICAN 2St. James Ave., 617-267-3500. With plush is the nightlife of our grandparents. Yet thanks to the development of eateries that combine leather couches, dark wood accents and Apropos, Sheraton Boston, 39 Dalton St., 617-375-6500. Drawing gourmet dining, exquisite cocktails and sultry dance beats, we can still spend an evening out its influences from American regional cuisine with a strong New candlelight throughout, the Oak Room is the with the same sort of multi-faceted class. Some in town have nicknamed such destinations England flair, the menu at Apropos offers hearty, satisfying dishes perfect place to cozy up with a hot toddy on “niteries”—part nightclub, part eatery. Whatever you want to call them, the combination has ranging from pan-roasted Chilean sea bass to grilled New York sirloin a cool winter’s night. and herbed roasted chicken. The menu, created by executive chef become a model for success, with new versions popping up everywhere. Saint (refer to listing, Joseph Nartowicz, exudes the flavors of Boston. B, L, D, SB. $$$ page 54) set the bar high with its tapas-style menu of Euro-Asian delights prepared by culinary L.A. BURDICK CAFE, 52-D Brattle St., darling Rene Michelena and glitzy events with celebrity guest DJs. But those who have followed Aura, Seaport Hotel, One Seaport Lane, 617-385-4300. Aura’s sea- 3Cambridge, 617-491-4340. The hot chocolate the same path have managed to carve their own niches. The Enormous Room (567 Mass sonal menus showcase chef John Merrill’s passion for using fresh, at Burdick’s is a legendary blend of rich, dark local ingredients in his recipes. Chef Merrill partners with local farm- chocolate imported from France and steamed Ave., Cambridge, 617-491-5599) serves appetizer-style dishes, including the enormous platter ers and fishermen to select freshly harvested vegetables, seafood at $14 per person—loaded with Mediterranean-inspired treats like Moroccan-spiced beef skew- that is just off the boat and specially aged meats and cheeses to cre- milk—as delectable as their world famous ers and baba ganoush. The finger food is best enjoyed while lounging on pillows, at low tables, ate his award-winning meals. B, L, D, SB. $$$ chocolates, only melted in a cup. listening to DJs spin everything from jazz to reggae. The latest of the bunch, Middlesex (pic- *Avenue One, Hyatt Regency, Financial District, 1 Ave. de Lafayette, TEALUXE, 108 Newbury St., 617-927-0400, tured above, 567 Mass Ave., Cambridge, 617-491-5599), adds a modern, urban flair to the 617-422-5579. Enjoy Boston’s most extensive fondue menu in a 0 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-441-0077. The lounge act by allowing guests to create their own space thanks to rolling furniture. The food relaxed atmosphere. Live jazz every Thu. B, L, D, C. $$ 4 perfect place to enjoy a pot of tea, both for harks back to one’s college years, including 10 tiny tacos and the chips with two green dips, *Bob the Chef’s, 604 Columbus Ave., 617-536-6204. Boston’s pre- Tealuxe’s precision brewing technique and the but with cocktail in hand you’ll feel all grown up and cooler than Old Blue Eyes. mier soul food restaurant features a wide array of talented local jazz coziness of the shops, adorned with copper musicians as well as a delightful assortment of southern and Cajun cuisines to satisfy any palate. One of the key attractions at Bob the ceilings and walls filled with tea boxes. Chef’s is the Sunday brunch with live jazz from 11 a.m.–3 p.m. $$ B = Breakfast AVERAGE PRICE OF DINNER ENTREES GRENDEL’S DEN, 89 Winthrop St., L = Lunch $— Most entrees less than $12 *Cheers, 84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605. Also: Faneuil Hall 5Cambridge, 617-491-1160. Tucked away in a D = Dinner Marketplace, 617-227-0150. Both the original Beacon Hill and $$ — Most entrees $12–18 basement in the heart of Harvard Square, this BR = Brunch $$$ — Most entrees $19–25 Faneuil Hall locations offer a mouthwatering selection of traditional SB = Sunday Brunch $$$$ — Most entrees more than $25 fare and an abundant beverage selection, including their award-win- venerable Harvard haunt may have a fake fire- C=Cocktails Many restaurants offer a wide range of entrees and prices; ning Bloody Mary and a variety of draft beers. Pick up officially place, but it will still melt your heart thanks to LS = Late Supper therefore, the classifications are only approximations. licensed Cheers merchandise at the gift shop. L, D, C, LS. $ its spicy mulled wine, a half-priced happy hour VP = Valet Parking Restaurants listed accept major credit cards unless *Dick’s Last Resort, Prudential Center, 55 Huntington Ave., 617- food menu and even cheese fondue. * = Entertainment otherwise specified. 267-8080. This is the joint your mama warned you about. Dick’s —Christine Celli

48 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 49 RESTAURANT GUIDE serves buckets of barbecue pork ribs and chicken, as well as lobster, contemporary flair. The stately dining room reflects the rich culinary delectable wood-grilled pizzas to pan-seard scallops and steak frites, P.F. Chang’s, 8 Park Plaza, Theatre District, 617-573-0821. shrimp and crab legs, steak and salads. There are also 74 kinds of heritage that lives on at the birthplace of Boston cream pie and the this downtown dining destination has created a buzz among Hub Traditional Chinese cuisine and American hospitality combine in this beer. Dick’s has SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m., which includes Belgian waffles, Parker House roll. B, L, D. $$$$ vino aficionados and diners alike. Not to be missed are the monthly upbeat bistro. Specialties include Chang’s chicken in soothing let- omelets, crab cake Benedict, breakfast burritos, fresh fruit and a wine pairing dinners and the weekly wine tastings. L, D, C. $$$ tuce wraps, Dan Dan noodles and orange peel shrimp. An array of make-your-own Bloody Mary bar. Live music, no cover, no dress Perdix, 560 Tremont St., 617-338-8070. A New American bistro in vegetarian dishes such as Sichuan-style long beans and stir-fried code and definitely no class. Open daily, Dick’s Last Resort is billed the South End run with flair by chef Tim Partridge and his wife Nini spicy eggplant are also available. Enjoy an impressive list of over 50 as “The Shame of Boston.” L 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m.; D Sun–Thu 4 Diana. Elegant and charming, this welcome newcomer has been CHINESE wines. Reservations accepted but not required. L & D Sun–Wed p.m.–midnight, Fri & Sat ’til 1 a.m. www.dickslastresort.com $$ acclaimed for such whimsical signature dishes as “Today’s steak 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til midnight. C, LS. $$ with whatever Tim wants” and the dessert staple, “Really freakin’ Chau Chow City, 83 Essex St., Chinatown, 617-338-8158; 52 Excelsior, The Heritage on the Garden, 272 Boylston St., 617-426- good chocolate torte.” D. $$$ Beach St., Chinatown, 617-426-6266. This flagship of the Chau 7878. Lydia Shire’s newest culinary masterpiece delivers bold and Chow chain features authentic Swatowese seafood dishes, such as EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN contemporary American cuisine at this stunning Back Bay location. Speeder & Earl’s, Copley Square Hotel, 47 Huntington Ave., 617- clams in black bean sauce, lobster or crab with ginger and scallion, An impressive collection of 500 wines, representing all regions of the 536-9000. Boston’s “quirkiest” breakfast and coffee bar, serving and spicy fried calamari. The service is superb, and the daily dim Lala Rokh, 97 Mt. Vernon St., 617-720-5511. Lala Rokh, the leg- world, is displayed in Boston’s only climate-controlled glass wine traditional and innovative favorites such as eggs Benedict and malt- sum attracts those with adventurous palates. Also a great place for endary princess immortalized in the 19th-century tale by Irish poet tower. Pre- and post-theater dining available. D, C, LS. $$$$ ed waffles. Boston’s best pastries and premium blends of gourmet an after-midnight meal. L, D, LS. $$ Thomas Moore, is honored by brother/sister team Babak and Azita coffee from Speeder & Earl’s of Vermont and are also featured. B, L, Bina. Using their mother’s home-style Persian recipes and unusual The Federalist, Fifteen Beacon Hotel, 15 Beacon St., 617-670- Sat & SB, D. $ New Shanghai Restaurant, 21 Hudson St., Chinatown, 617-338- imported spices, they’ve created a unique dining experience in the only 2515. The menu at this powerbrokers’ haven offers artistic imagina- 6688. Specializing in Shanghai and Cantonese cuisine, this much- restaurant of its kind in New England. Elegant and affordable, it’s a tion in the preparation of dishes ranging from Colorado rack of lamb The Spinnaker, atop the Hyatt Regency, 575 Memorial Dr., lauded Chinatown destination features a menu chock full of Chinese highlight of historic Beacon Hill. L Mon–Fri noon–3 p.m.; D nightly to skillet-roasted French Dover sole, in an atmosphere that evokes Cambridge, 617-492-1234. Enjoy a panoramic view of the Boston favorites, such as General Gau’s chicken and Peking duck, as well as 5:30–10 p.m. Reservations recommended. VP.www.lalarokh.com $$ the stately traditions of the world’s most private clubs. A rooftop herb skyline and Charles River while dining in Boston’s only revolving delectable seafood dishes, like the crispy whole fish and scallops garden and in-kitchen fish tanks help to ensure culinary perfection. rooftop restaurant and lounge. Spinnaker features American cuisine for with black peppercorn glaze. L, D, LS. $$ B, D, Sat & SB, C, LS. $$$$ dinner and Sunday Brunch. Savor a cocktail or dance under the stars FRENCH/FRENCH-AMERICAN on Fri & Sat evenings. D, LS, SB. Reservations recommended. $$$ Peking Tom’s Longtang Lounge, 25 Kingston St., 617-482-6282. Finale, One Columbus Ave., behind the Four Seasons Hotel, 617- This hip, funky downtown eatery specializes in gourmet makeovers Aujourd’hui, Four Seasons Hotel Boston, 200 Boylston St., 617- 423-3184; 30 Dunster St., Harvard Sq., Cambridge, 617-441-9797. Stephanie’s on Newbury, 190 Newbury St., 617-236-0990. of traditional Cantonese and Polynesian dishes such as kung pao 351-2037. Featuring an ambiance of contemporary elegance with One of the only dessert restaurants in America, Finale features items Recommended by The New York Times, chef/owner Stephanie chicken and the ubiquitous pu pu platter, as well as potent, colorful the Public Garden as a backdrop, this eatery is one of only two like the caramel carnivale and its signature “molten chocolate cake.” Sidell’s eatery showcases sophisticated American cooking, including cocktails like the scorpion bowl and the innovative kumquat mojito. restaurants in the state to receive the AAA Five Diamond Award. With Chef Nicole Coady’s menu is complemented by its luscious drink salads, grilled fish chicken and comfort food, such as meatloaf. L, D, C, LS. $$ its recent re-opening and new look, Aujourd’hui welcomes chef de menu of ports, champagnes, cordials and its well-known “Finale Casual elegance at its best with sidewalk cafe, club-like bar and Favorites.” A light dinner menu is available. L & D. $$ skylit dining space. Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–10 p.m. L, D, SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m., C, VP Tue–Sat evenings. $$$ *Hard Rock Cafe, 131 Clarendon St., two blocks from Boylston St., 617-424-ROCK (7625). HRC Boston serves up the best down-home *Sweetwater Cafe, 3 Boylston Place, 617-351-2515. This casual American food possible, seasoned with a healthy dose of rock ’n’ roll. pub offers classic American comfort food, including steak tips, burg- Try the infamous “Pig” sandwich, excellent burgers and chicken ers and sandwiches, in a relaxed atmosphere. Sweetwater also sandwiches. Memorabilia highlights include “The Aerosmithsonian,” boasts a large beer selection, patio dining, food ’til 1 a.m. and live the “Boston Wall of Fame,” Phish’s vacuum, Jim Morrison’s leather music Thu–Sat. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. $ pants and Madonna’s bustier. L, D, C, LS. $ Theatre Cafe, Radisson Hotel, 200 Stuart St., 617-574-2752. Located Jer-Ne Restaurant & Bar, The Ritz-Carlton Boston Common, 12 in the heart of the theater district, this restaurant features traditional Avery St., 617-574-7176. Chef Ulrich Koberstein sets an uncharted American fare in a comfortable atmosphere and is a great location for course of adventure in contemporary cuisine, featuring American pre- and post-theater dining. Seasonal outdoor dining and discounted favorites, seafood and steaks, all artistically presented. The artful parking at on-site garage is available. Open daily for B, L, D. $$ menu is created from a palette of lush local flavors. The restaurant also boasts an exhibition kitchen. B, L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$$ *Top of the Hub, 800 Boylston St., Prudential Center, 617-536-1775. There is nothing like sitting 52 stories above Boston for dining and a Locke-Ober, 3 Winter Place, 617-542-1340. Helmed by local culi- spectacular view of the city.The magnificent cuisine complements the nary innovator Lydia Shire (Biba, Excelsior), this downtown landmark breathtaking views. L, D, LS, C. Live jazz seven nights a week. $$$$ has been refurbished and restored to its former glory. The menu of this Boston Brahmin bastion has been updated, but Shire has kept Union Bar and Grille, 1357 Washington St., 617-423-0555. This many of its classics, including the steak tartar and the legendary lob- sleek, upscale American bistro in the up-and-coming SoWa District, ster Savannah. L, D, LS. $$$$ features everything from gourmet comfort food like the Reuben sandwich and a beef-and-sausage burger to the award-winning Meritage, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-439-3995. $10K tuna in a roasted tomato vinaigrette. D, C, LS, SB. $$$ Fresh, seasonal cuisine is carefully matched to an appropriate vin- tage from the 12,000-bottle wine collection. The restaurant’s interior UpStairs on the Square, 91 Winthrop St., Cambridge, 617-864- combines slate, marble, exotic wood and leather, creating a luxurious 1933. Boasting an eclectic decor, this lush urban oasis features atmosphere to accompany a hearty meal. All menu items come in everything from gourmet pizza to Colorado rack of lamb, created by appetizer and entree sizes. D, LS. $$$$ renowned chefs Amanda Lydon and Susan Regis. L, D, C, LS. $$$$

Parker’s Restaurant, Omni Parker House, 60 School St., 617-725- Vinalia, 101 Arch St., Downtown Crossing, 617-737-1777. Boasting 1600. Executive chef Jerry Tice celebrates nostalgic cuisine with a more than 40 wines by the glass and menu items ranging from

50 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 51 RESTAURANT GUIDE cuisine Jerome Legras, whose debut menu of modern French cuisine Hamersley’s Bistro, 533 Tremont St., 617-423-2700. This pioneer- Radius, 8 High St., 617-426-1234. James Beard Award-winning chef uses the freshest regional ingredients. To complement the flavors, ing French-American classic, helmed by the husband and wife team Michael Schlow churns out impeccably prepared nouveau French fare sommelier Ted Davidson offers an award-winning selection of wine of Gordon and Fiona Hamersley, first put the South End dining scene such as foie gras-suffused Vermont pheasant and New Zealand loin of from an 1,800-bottle library. Reservations recommended. D Mon–Sat on the map. Try the duck confit or the roast chicken with garlic, lemon venison in an ultra-modern, minimalist setting. Pastry chef Paul 5:30–10:30 p.m., Sun 6–10 p.m.; SB 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. $$$$ and parsley. Long regarded as one of the city’s top tables. D. $$$$ Connors creates rapturously delectable desserts. The ambiance is powerbroker chic, and the service is top-notch. L, D, C, LS. $$$$ Brasserie Jo, The Colonnade Hotel, 120 Huntington Ave., 617-425- *Julien, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451-1900. 3240. Regional French cooking in the classic brasserie style. The The award-winning Julien offers creative contemporary French cui- Spire, Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., 617-772-0202. Alluringly “sister” of chef Jean Joho’s award-winning Chicago restaurant com- sine in a formal dining room of unparalleled elegance and intimacy. ensconced in Boston’s most fashionable luxury boutique hotel, Spire bines traditional favorites (coq au vin and steak frites) with unique An ideal setting for pre-theatre dining, a private business dinner or a features a striking interior and chef Gabriel Frasca’s cuisine, which specialties (Uncle Hansi’s onion tart). Home-brewed beer, a wine list romantic celebration. D Mon–Sat 6–10 p.m. Tapas menu available at combines flavors from France, Italy, Spain and Portugal with seasonal and desserts in the French tradition complete this Gallic experience. bar Mon–Fri 4–7 p.m. $$$$ New England ingredients. Named one of “America's 50 Best Hotel Seasonal outdoor patio. B, L, D. $$ Restaurants” by Food and Wine. B, L, D LS, VP. $$$$ L’Espalier, 30 Gloucester St., 617-262-3023. Situated in a historic *Café Fleuri, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451- Back Bay townhouse, this sophisticated French classic helmed by 1900. Feast under the stars in Mediterranean ambiance. Enjoy what top chef Frank McClelland is a favorite of both power brokers and FRENCH COUNTRY Boston magazine hails as “the best Sunday brunch in Boston” or couples on a romantic night out. D. $$$$ 1 partake in a wonderful à la carte menu featuring Mediterranean fare, Hungry i, 71 /2 Charles St., 617-227-3524. This restored two-story regional American specialties, and authentic French pastries and No. 9 Park, 9 Park St., 617-742-9991. Nationally acclaimed chef Beacon Hill townhouse features three working fireplaces and a desserts—all within a beautiful sunlit garden atrium. B Mon–Fri Barbara Lynch serves up French and Italian style dishes in a sophisti- charming outdoor patio. Chef Peter Ballarin celebrates over 20 years 6:30–11:30 a.m., Sat 7:30–11 a.m.; L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D cated bistro atmosphere atop Beacon Hill. Chef Lynch has a subtle of romancing patrons with French country cuisine and his flair for Mon–Sat 6–10 p.m., Sun 4–10 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m. $$ hand in the kitchen, turning out inventive renditions of classic Italian creative desserts. Signature dishes include venison au poivre, braised and French fare such as fresh pasta and foie gras. L, D, LS. $$$$ rabbit a la moutard and turbin of sole. L Thu and Fri only, noon–2 Clio, The Eliot Hotel, 370-A Commonwealth Ave., 617-536-7200. p.m.; D 5:30–9:30 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Private dining room James Beard Award-winning chef Ken Oringer serves up French- Pigalle, 75 Charles St. South, 617-423-4944. This welcoming available upon request. SEE LOCATOR #4 ON CENTER MAP. $$$$ American fare with some striking Asian influences in a sleek, sophis- bistro in Park Square brings exquisite French cuisine to the Theatre ticated atmosphere that’s styled after a Parisian supper club. Bacon- District via the inventive culinary artistry and personally charming wrapped foie gras, caramelized swordfish au poivre and ginger- service of co-owners and husband-and-wife team Marc Orfaly and INDIAN glazed oxtail keep customers coming back for more. D. $$$$ Kerri Foley. D, VP. $$$ Gandhi, 704 Mass. Ave., Central Square, Cambridge, 617-491-1104. Savor the scents and flavors of India and enjoy exceptional Indian cuisine in the heart of Central Square. Only the freshest produce, herbs and delicate spices are used to prepare the healthy fare. L daily noon–3 p.m.; D noon–11 p.m.; SB noon–3 p.m. L buffet daily Harborside Restaurant noon–3 p.m., “All you can eat” $5.95. Beer & wine. $ Shanti, 277 Huntington Ave., 617-867-9700; 1111 Dorchester Ave., The rrestaurantestaurant with an ocean of window dressing. 617-929-3900. Hailed by the Boston Phoenix as “one of the best [South Asian] restaurants Boston has ever had,” Shanti specializes in cuisine from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, blending such unique flavors as garlic, ginger, mint and fresh coconut. The Huntington Ave. location is ideal for pre- or post-symphony or theater dining and boasts a large beer and wine selection. L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D 5–11 p.m. $

INTERNATIONAL

Blue Ginger, 583 Washington St. (Rte. 16), Wellesley, 781-283-5790. Celebrity chef Ming Tsai combines the flavors of Asia, Europe and the Americas to produce a unique cuisine that has won the praise of crit- ics. Signature dishes like sake-miso Chilean sea bass with wasabi oil and soy syrup make it worth the short ride to the suburbs. L & D. $$$$

Intrigue, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-856-7744. Casual elegance surrounds this unique cafe. Beautiful decor and breathtaking harbor views are perfect for those who desire a cosmo- politan, relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy a global menu created by renowned chef Daniel Bruce. B, L, D, LS. $

*Jacob Wirth, 37 Stuart St., 617-338-8586. Opened in 1868, Jacob Boston HistoricHistoric FishFish PierPier • 617.423.1000 Wirth is the city’s second-oldest restaurant and a Boston classic, Functions for any occasion serving European, American and traditional German fare, including wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten and a great selection of German beers.

52 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 53 RESTAURANT GUIDE A True Taste This Theater District mainstay still has the look of an old-time saloon, *The Green Dragon Tavern, 11 Marshall St., 617-367-0055. complete with an ancient mahogany bar, weathered hardwood floors Boston’s premier 18th-century tavern, located on the Freedom Trail, of Eastern and weekly piano sing-alongs. L, D, C, LS. $$ is home to Boston’s only Guinness/Oyster Festival. Microbrews and a large selection of imported beers flow from its taps. Live entertain- L, 234 Berkeley St., 617-266-4680. Located at the upscale clothing ment nightly, with a traditional Irish seisiun (session) Sat 4–8 p.m. L, creative southwestern cuisine Mediterranean institution Louis Boston, this chic, minimalist-style eatery features a D, C, Sat & SB. $ 222 Berkeley Street menu by chef Pino Maffeo that melds Asian ingredients and spices Copley Square, Boston with French and Italian preparations and techniques. Dishes such as *Hennessy’s of Boston, 25 Union St., 617-742-2121. Located near 617.247.2225 in Historic Boston the roasted cod coated in panko bread crumbs, as well as playful Faneuil Hall, Hennessy’s serves up items like wood-grilled Irish Tucked away in Boston’s historic Beacon Hill is amuse bouches such as cappuccino-flavored cotton candy, keeps L’s salmon, Kilmacalog chowder, shepherd’s pie, burgers, soups, salads snakebites Lala Rokh, featuring the culinary delights of Persia. fashionable crowd coming back for more. L & D. $$$$ and a huge bar appetizer menu. An extensive beer and wine list, pri- vate snugs, farmer’s tables and a turf-burning fireplace. Featuring live Since its opening in 1995, the restaurant has received angus ranch strip steak ecstatic reviews by some of the country’s toughest Mantra, 52 Temple Place, 617-542-8111. This sleek, buzz-worthy entertainment five nights a week and monthly performances by pop eatery combines a stylish interior, complete with a 15-foot-high, bands directly from Ireland. L, D, SB. $ critics including Zagat, Gourmet and Food & Wine fire and spice pasta magazines. For a memorable evening of distinctive woven-wood “Hookah Den.” The kitchen creates classical European and French fare with an innovative use of Indian spices and ingredi- *The Purple Shamrock, 1 Union St., 617-227-2060. Named after cuisine, beautiful surroundings and gracious hospitality, ents in such dishes as pan roasted red snapper in a yogurt dressing former Boston Mayor James Michael Curley, the character of the mango margaritas visit the Mediterranean world of Lala Rokh. and seared foie gras with a panacetta-filled wonton and a sweet Rascal King is captured through historical decor and an energetic mission fig. L, D, C. $$$$ environment. Fresh New England seafood, lobster specials, aged fresh grilled salmon fillet Angus steaks and traditional favorites are some of its specialties. L, D, Rialto, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, 617-661- Sat & SB $ 5050. One of Greater Boston’s top restaurants features fine wines 20% food discount for parties of six to and cuisine from France, Italy and Spain. Chef Jody Adams lends her twenty guests with this ad creative talents to seasonal dinner menu items such as grilled pork ITALIAN tenderloin with Ligurian potato-cheese pie, pine nuts and basil. D Just a few reasons to come visit us. only. Reservations recommended. $$$$ Antonio’s, 288 Cambridge St., 617-367-3310. One of Boston’s finest www.cottonwoodboston.com Italian restaurants (across from Massachusetts General Hospital on 97 Mt. Vernon Street, Beacon Hill *The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 15 Arlington St., 617-536-5700. This historic Beacon Hill). Traditional Italian food with nightly specials and 720-5511 1927 culinary landmark offers award-winning contemporary French complementing wine list. Specials include homemade fusilli, shrimp *two hours free parking back bay garage after 5 p.m. cuisine. The Dining Room: D, SB. The Cafe: B, L, D, Sat & SB. The margarita and chicken/sausage vinegar peppers and potatoes. L, D Lounge: L, D, C, LS. The Bar: L, D, C, LS. $$$$ Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. $

Saint, 90 Exeter St., 617-236-1134. This luxe hotspot—part restau- Caffe Vittoria, 296 Hanover St., 617-227-7606. This popular rant, part nightclub—boasts a chi-chi decor, exotic cocktails and a European-style cafe in the North End offers a variety of desserts, cappuc- “mini cuisine” menu by acclaimed chef Rene Michelena, whose cino and espresso. Sun–Thu 8 a.m.–midnight, Fri & Sat ’til 12:30 a.m. $ CHANG’S LETTUCE WRAPS Southeast Asian-inspired fusion dishes have won over the hip crowd CHANG’S LETTUCE WRAPS that congregates here. D, C, LS, VP. $$$$ Caliterra, Wyndham Boston Hotel, 89 Broad St., 617-348-1234. Located in the in the heart of the Financial District, this casual, Giving salad an Sonsie, 327 Newbury St., 617-351-2500. Recommended by Boston upscale restaurant features Cal-Ital cuisine with seasonal New inferiority complex magazine as the place to “see and be seen.” The lively restaurant England flavors. B, L, D. $$ features a streetside cafe, 50-foot mahogany bar, brick oven and col- since 1993. orful dining room. The menu by award-winning chef Bill Poirier Cantina Italiana, 346 Hanover St., 617-723-4577. Opened in 1931, includes tempura tuna roll with avocado, mizuna and tobiko caviar this longtime favorite is the oldest restaurant in the North End and and herb pappardelle with asparagus. L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.– 2:30 serves some of the best traditional Italian cuisine in Boston in a warm p.m.; Sat & SB 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Sun–Tue 6–11 p.m. and and charming atmosphere. Reservations recommended. D, LS. $$ Wed–Sat 6 p.m.–midnight. C, LS, VP. Check out the Red Room cock- tail lounge downstairs. $$ Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, 75 Arlington St., 617-357- 4810; Royal Sonesta Hotel, 5 Cambridge Parkway, Cambridge, 617- Zephyr on the Charles, Hyatt Regency Cambridge, 575 Memorial 661-4810. Refer to listing under Steakhouses for full description.$$$ Drive, Cambridge, 617-441-6510. This restaurant serves small-por- tioned, tapas-like dishes, featuring eclectic fare like sushi-grade tuna Florentine Cafe, 333 Hanover St., 617-227-1777. Revered by visi- tartare and wood-grilled tiger prawns. The setting features spectacu- tors and residents since its post-Prohibition debut, this historic North lar views of the Boston skyline. B, L, D, C. $$ End cafe has become one of Boston’s culinary landmarks. Lobster Reservations Accepted ravioli with fresh tomatoes and lobster cream sauce, seared veal with grilled shrimp in Frangelico mushroom sauce, and grilled pro- IRISH sciutto-wrapped Angus beef with alfredo risotto are just a few of the Italian wonders awaiting you in this charming bistro setting. Daily *Black Rose, 160 State St., next to Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 617- noon–1 a.m. L, D, C. SEE LOCATOR #3 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ 742-2286. Located in the Faneuil Hall Marketplace area, this popular In the Theatre District pub features aged beef, chicken, fresh native seafood, light fare, La Groceria Ristorante Italiano, 853 Main St., Cambridge (off 8 Park Plaza • 617-573-0821 hearty sandwiches and other American and Irish classics from the grill Central Square), 617-876-4162. This charming neighborhood restau- (at the Transportation Building) served in a casual, jovial atmosphere. Live Irish music nightly and rant boasts the freshest vegetables, the finest herbs and spices, pfchangs.com weekend afternoons. L, D, LS, SB. Traditional Irish breakfast served. $ handmade pasta, fresh grilled fish, lobster and steak. For 33 years La

54 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 55 ESTAURANT GUIDE A Boston Tradition R A National Historic Landmark Groceria has been an Italian classic, having been featured in Gourmet Osushi, 10 Huntington Ave., 617-266-2788. This newcomer to the magazine, The Boston Globe, the Boston Herald and Zagat Survey. sushi scene has earned raves for its fresh fish and dazzlingly innova- Enjoy excellent Northern Italian cuisine in a casual, home-style tive maki rolls, such as the godzilla, crystal rainbow and spicy TNT atmosphere. Children’s menu available. Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–10 p.m., maki, all served in a chic, minimalist atmosphere. L, D, LS. $$$ Sat 3–10 p.m., Sun 1–9 p.m. www.lagroceriarestaurant.com $$ Shino Express Sushi, 144 Newbury St., 617-262-4530. This tiny, Lucca Restaurant & Bar, 226 Hanover St., 617-742-9200. Winner subterranean sushi bar specializes in freshly prepared maki rolls and of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2002, Zagat Survey’s fun specials, offering Newbury Street shoppers a fast, cheap dining “Top New Restaurant 2002” and winner of Best of Boston 2001, this alternative. L & D. $ new North End eatery is racking up accolades for its regional Italian America’s cuisine, award-winning wine list, lively bar and elegant atmosphere. Oldest D nightly 5–11 p.m.; weekends 5–11:30 p.m.; bar menu ’til 12:15 MEDITERRANEAN a.m.; C ’til 1 a.m. VP. SEE LOCATOR #5 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ Restaurant Bar 10, The Westin Hotel, Copley Place, 10 Huntington Ave., On The Mamma Maria, 3 North Square, Prince and Garden Court streets, 617-424-7446. This sleek, contemporary bistro serves creative Freedom Trail 617-523-0077. “Easily the most attractive restaurant in the North Mediterranean cuisine and offers an exceptional wine list. Enjoy In The End” (Boston magazine, January 2004); “One of Boston’s most grilled Greek salad flatbread pizza or tagliarini provencale in a cos- Faneuil Hall Area romantic restaurants” (The New York Post, 2003). Set in a three-story, mopolitan atmosphere. L, D, C, LS. $$ 19th-century brick row house overlooking North Square in the North Specializing In Yankee Style Seafood, End, Mamma Maria offers charming views of the neighborhood and Olives, 10 City Square, Charlestown, 617-242-1999. Celebrity chef Fresh New England Lobster city skyline, as well as a Wine Spectator Award-winning wine list. The Todd English got his start with this local eatery and the Charlestown And Grilled Meats seasonal menu features regional Italian dishes using local ingredients. flagship restaurant is still the unparalleled king of his endeavors. Five private dining rooms available. D Sun–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat Sample English’s multi-layered, ingredient rich, pan-Mediterranean 41 Union Street • 617-227-2750 ’til 11 p.m. Reservations accepted. VP. www.mammamaria.com $$$ creations. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early and be pre- Sunday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm pared to wait. D. $$$$ Friday & Saturday 11 am-10 pm Massimino’s Cucina Italiana, 207 Endicott St., 617-523-5959. Union Bar til-Midnight Owner/chef Massimino was formerly head chef of England’s All Major Credit Cards Honored • Validated Parking Birmingham Hotel, Naples’ Hotel Astoria and Switzerland’s Metropolitan Visit Our Website • www.unionoysterhouse.com MUSEUM DINING Hotel. Elegant, comfortable surroundings. Specialties include: veal chop stuffed with arugula, prosciutto, smoked mozzarella and black olives; Bravo, Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-369-3474. and Norwegian salmon stuffed with escarole and shrimp in a wild Bravo is an exciting addition to the culinary offerings at the MFA. mushroom cream sauce. Parking nearby. L, D, LS, C. Mon–Thu 11 Chef Benjamin Cevelo brings the creative flair he developed while a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun noon–9 p.m. $ working with Wolfgang Puck, offering a light, eclectic and contempo- rary menu. The restaurant is a work of art itself, with bold colors and Teatro, 177 Tremont St., 617-778-6841. One of the hottest additions clean lines created by famed restaurant designer Peter Niemitz. The to the Theatre District, Teatro’s reasonably priced Italian-influenced inviting, warm ambiance complements a rotating selection of some menu was created by executive chef Robert Jean with owner/chef of the MFA’s modern masterpieces. L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Jamie Mammano. The restaurant has been praised by foodies and Wed–Fri 5:30–8:30 p.m.; SB 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. $$$ critics alike, dubbed “Best Pre-Theatre Dining 2003” (Improper Bostonian) and “Best Italian Restaurant 2003” (Boston magazine). D Museum of Science, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Dinner and a Mon–Sat 5 p.m.–midnight; Sun 4–11 p.m. Reservations accepted. movie is old news—today it’s brunch and a movie at the noontime www.teatroboston.com $$$ Skyline Sunday Brunch, offering views of the Charles River and the Cambridge and Boston skylines. The package includes tickets to the Via Matta, 79 Park Plaza, 617-422-0008. Radius owners Michael newest IMAX film in the Mugar Omni Theatre, admission to the Schlow and Christopher Myers have created an Italian-style tratto- exhibit halls and free parking. Tickets: $32; seniors $31; children ria that was named one of “America’s Best New Restaurants” by $30. Reservations recommended. The Science Street Cafe offers Esquire and “One of America’s Best Restaurants” by Gourmet. L, D, appetizers and drinks before or after viewing the exhibit hall, Fri LS. Closed Sun. VP. Reservations recommended. $$$$ from 6–10 p.m. $

JAPANESE/SUSHI NEW ENGLAND BOSTON’S HIDDEN JEWEL Ginza, 16 Hudson St., Chinatown, 617-338-2261; 1002 Beacon St., *Durgin-Park, 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 617-227-2038. A Brookline, 617-566-9688. This restaurant is a favorite of many sushi- Boston landmark in historic Faneuil Hall (where your grandfather and loving Bostonians. Dine on the freshest raw fish and tempura with great-grandfather may have dined) features steaks, chops and seafood specialties like the Ginza Surprise, boasting a selection of exotic in a New England tradition. Piano and oyster bars open late. L, D. $ sushi rolls and sashimi. L, D, LS. $$$ Henrietta’s Table, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, Gyuhama, 827 Boylston St., 617-437-0188. This Back Bay institu- 617-661-5005. “Fresh and Honest” is its creed. Nothing but locally tion is known for its late-night “rock ’n’ roll” sushi beginning at 10 grown and organic produce are used to create a lively and textured p.m., when the music is cranked up and the chefs create an array of menu of reinterpreted New England classics. Daily specials feature RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED 1 tasty maki rolls and nigiri sushi. Gyuhama also offers an array of the best available in fruits, vegetables, fish, poultry and meats, pre- 71 /2 Charles Street, Beacon Hill 617.227.3524 tempura and teriyaki dishes. L, D, LS. $$ pared in an open kitchen. Private dining room available. B Mon–Fri

56 PANORAMA JANUARY 17–30, 2005 57

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Opera Hyatt House Regency P MARLBOROUGH Boston P Boston AVERY P Ritz-Carlton P VE. Ritz-Carlton Common Boston Boston Public Common Boylston COMMONWEALTH A Garden P Four ESSEX BOYLSTON The Colonial Arlington Seasons Alley Theatre P Hotel Chinatown P S. CHARLES Heritage State Cutler P on the PARK PLAZA Transportation LaGRANGE P Majestic P NEWBURY P Garden Building BOYLSTON Theatre P P Boston P PROVIDENCE WARRENTON P Park Plaza Wilbur CHINATOWN BACK BAY Hotel P Theatre KNEELAND ST. JAMES Radisson Shubert Theatre Copley P P P Stuart Hotel Wang Trinity Street Theatre Church Charles P FAR Playhouse P P Playhouse Tremont HARVARD P GLOUCESTER Tremont IFIELD Copley BERKELEY P Theatre STUART Boston Public Square PIEDMONT House Library WINCHESTER EXETER John P TREMONT P P HEREFORD Lenox P CHURCH TRINITY PL. Hancock Hotel P Copley Tower MELROSEETTE BLAGDEN Plaza Doubletree P P FAY Guest Institute of Copley Hotel RING Westin P Suites TYLER Contemporary RING Square ISABELLA Art P Hotel Hotel P P P STANHOPE Hynes CAHNERS CORTEZ OAK P TREMONT Convention Prudential P Copley P MARGINAL New England Center Center P Medical Center ST. CECILIA DALTON Place P P CAMBRIA Back Bay P ESTAURANT GUIDE P Marriott ST. CHARLES CAZENOVE Copley R SCOTIA HERALD Place P PAU TP HE S OUTH E ND L PL. 6:30–11 a.m., Sat 7–11 a.m., Sun 7–10:30 a.m.; Sat and SB noon–3 Back P P P P Sheraton HARCOURT Bay p.m.; L Mon–Sat noon–3 p.m.; D daily 5:30–10 p.m. $ P Boston P BELVIDEREHilton GARRISON P MULLINS WAY Hotel SOUTH END R LAWRENCE P APPLETON Prudential CHANDLE CLARENDO Sheraton Commander Restaurant, 16 Garden St., Harvard ST. GERMAIN YAR MOUTH GRAY P Square, Cambridge, 617-234-1365. New England-style cuisine in a The N TRAVELER . E. BERKELEY WATERFORD P Colonnade P relaxed, elegant setting with a casual atmosphere. B, L, D, SB. $$ DARTMOUT CLEARWA Hotel W. AVE P FOLLEN . P Y CANTON US N WARREN DWIGHT P P UMB DARTMOUTH PL Boston P Center for Christian HOLYOKE COL SEAFOOD W. H the Arts Science HUNTINGTON AVE. MILFORD NEWTON CARLETON Center P GROTO DURHAM BRADDOCK PK. HAN FAY Anthony’s Pier 4, 140 Northern Ave., 617-482-6262. For 37 years, MERY LOR TAY P SON N this world-renowned institution has catered to a local, national and MONTGO CUMBERLAND Midtown OLPH 1 WALTHAM BRISTOL international clientele with its incomparable selections and innovative Hotel BOND preparations. Featuring Maine lobster from its own lobster company, P P UNION PARK ST. BOT W. W. ACORN RUTLAND SQ. fresh New England seafood, imported Dover sole, prime steaks BLACKWOOD W. CANTON TREMONT THAYER BROOKLINE and a wine list of more than 500 selections. The dining room offersSymphony PEMBROKE UPTON D GREENWICH PK. Southwest Corridor Park W. DRAPERS exquisite views of Boston Harbor and the city skyline. L, D Mon–Fri ALBEMARLE PERR IVANHOE DEDHAM WILKES Y 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat noon–11 p.m., Sun noon–10 p.m. $$ RUTLAND SQ. BRADFOR

CLAREMONT PK. Chart House, 60 Long Wharf, 617-227-1576. The Chart House CONCORD SQ. boasts an impressive menu of fresh seafood, steaks and more. AGUADILLA SAVOY WELLINGTON Surrounded by waterfront views, the eatery offers specialties like ROLLINS P Mass. Ave. WOR RANDOLPH the crab, avocado and mango stack appetizer; shrimp fresca; CONCORD PL. VE. CES SAN JUAN PELHAM macadamia crusted mahi-mahi; slow roasted prime rib; and its MASSACHUSETTS A TER W. W. signature dessert—hot chocolate lava cake. Private parties for 30 NEWTON SHAWMUT A SPR P Langham Hotel, Boston 2 RUTLANDW. MONSIGNOR (formerly Le Meridien) or more by reservation only. L Sat 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m.; D W. W. HAVEN REYNOLDS ING NEWLAND PL. 250 Franklin Street, Boston Mon–Fri 5–10 p.m., Sat ’til 10:30 p.m., Sun ’til 9 p.m. SEE LOCA- CONCORD BROOKLINE 617.956.8752 P FIE TOR #1 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ VE. LD Blackstone Square TIC www.langhamhotels.com WASHINGTONMYS Gourmeli’s Seafood, Marriott Copley Place, 110 Huntington Ave., MALDEN HAVEN 1 2 E. BROO 617-236-5800 ext. 6741. Enjoy the sushi bar or indulge in fresh lob- WAREHAM PLYMPTON ster, swordfish and more. Offering an array of fresh New England VE. KLINE E. DEDHAM seafood and entrees. B, L, D. $$$ NORTHAMPTON Franklin NEWLAND DEBLOIS CUMSTON E. NEWTONSquare HARRISON A E. CANTON ANDREWS PL. Great Bay, Hotel Commonwealth, 500 Commonwealth Ave., 617- ANDREWS

532-5300. Christopher Myers and chef Michael Schlow (Radius, Via DEACON CAMDEN E. CONCORD Matta) present their unique take on the seafood and raw bar concepts. GE

This eclectic space in Kenmore Square serves delectable fare such as SHARON ST. GEOR fish tacos and the acclaimed baked stuffed lobster. L, D, C, LS. $$$ THORN COMET PL.

Harborside Grill, Hyatt Harborside, 101 Harborside Drive, 617-568- E. SPRINGFIELD 6060. The Harborside Grill offers panoramic views of the Boston sky- ALBANY

line from every seat in the dining room. During the day, the casual STOUGHTON atmosphere makes it a welcoming location for a cup of coffee or MELEE PAR bowl of chowder. In the evening, the Grill is transformed into a TRASK sophisticated dining room featuring fresh New England seafood. Open daily 6 a.m.–10 p.m. B, L, D, SB, C, LS, VP. $$$

Jasper White’s Summer Shack, 50 Dalton St., 617-867-9955; GAGE 149 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-520-9500. World- renowned chef, cookbook author and Boston foodie godfather Jasper Prices range from $45.00 to $56.00 White brings his extensive knowledge of seafood and New England fare Children under 12, $17.50. to the Back Bay and Cambridge. For a casual night out, the restaurant offers the freshest seafood available, including the chef’s famous pan- Sunday seatings: 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. roasted lobster, hearty chowders, grilled fish, award-winning fried chick- FELLOWS en and an unparalleled raw bar. Boston: Daily 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., raw 617-536-7669 Call for take-out! bar Thu–Sat ’til 1 a.m. Cambridge: L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Lighter 429 Columbus Ave. fare served from 3–5 p.m.; D Mon–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 (three blocks directly behind The Prudential Center) Langham Hotel, Boston (formerly Le Meridien) p.m., Sun 3–9 p.m. SEE LOCATOR #9 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ 250 Franklin Street, Boston Open Monday through Friday 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. 617.451.1900, ext. 7125 Jimmy’s Harborside, 242 Northern Ave., 617-423-1000. Since Saturday 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m./closed Sundays www.langhamhotels.com 1924, visitors and natives alike have found Jimmy’s Harborside to No checks or credit cards accepted be among New England’s most famous landmarks. From the water-

58 PANORAMA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

RESTAURANT GUIDE front location, you’ll enjoy world-renowned seafood and views of SOUTHWESTERN TheThe historic Boston Harbor. Features award-winning chowders, Maine lobster, traditional Boston haddock and jumbo baked stuffed shrimp. Border Cafe, 32 Church St., Cambridge, 617-864-6100. Sizzling A substantial, acclaimed wine list is modestly priced. Mon–Thu fajitas, overstuffed quesadillas and giant margaritas are the highlights noon–9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 10 p.m., Sun 4–9 p VP. SEE LOCATOR at this Tex-Mex hotspot in Harvard Square. Other specialties include #5 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ Cajun and Creole dishes, all served in a bustling, lively and fun NORTHNORTH ENDEND atmosphere. L, D, C, LS. $ Legal Sea Foods Restaurant, 26 Park Plaza, Park Square Motor Mart, 617-426-4444; 255 State St., Long Wharf, 617-227-3115; Cottonwood Cafe, 222 Berkeley St., 617-247-2225. Specialties include enowned as Boston’s “Little Italy,” the North End is constantly brimming with the Copley Place, 100 Huntington Ave., 617-266-7775; Prudential Center, open-grill steaks, poultry, seafood, pasta and vegetarian dishes. Voted aroma of garlic and freshly cooked cuisine. But its storied history is also part of its 800 Boylston St., 617-266-6800; 5 Cambridge Center, Kendall “Boston’s Best Southwestern Restaurant” and “Boston’s Best Margarita.” Rcharm. The oldest neighborhood in the city, it gave birth to the American Revolution Square, Cambridge, 617-864-3400; other locations. For over 50 Reservations recommended. Private function rooms. Two hours free val- on its narrow cobblestone streets and has been home to wave after wave of new immigrants. years, Legal Sea Foods has served the freshest seafood possible, idated parking. L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; D daily ’til 11 p.m.; including oysters, wood grilled fish, succulent New England lobsters Sat & SB 11 a.m.–3 p.m. C, LS, VP.www.cottonwoodboston.com $$ Today, with such strong ties to its past, the and its famous clam “chowda.” Extensive wine list. L & D. $$$ North End remains one of the most European neighborhoods in America, offering the best McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant, Boston Park Plaza STEAKHOUSES Hotel, 34 Columbus Ave., 617-482-3999; Faneuil Hall Marketplace, in Old World cooking and tradition along North Market, 617-720-5522. Recognized nationwide for its fresh Abe & Louie’s, 793 Boylston St., 617-536-6300. Boasting the serv- with a variety of sightseeing and entertain- seafood and lively atmosphere, McCormick & Schmick’s offers more ice, style and elegance of a New York steakhouse, this establishment ment adventures year-round. than 30 varieties of fresh seafood, as well as steak, chicken and pasta offers a menu that includes hand-selected, prime-aged cuts of beef, dishes and a unique menu that changes daily. L daily 11 a.m.–4 p.m.; fresh fish and poultry, as well as an extensive wine selection. The D Sun–Thu 4–11:30 p.m., Fri & Sat 4 p.m.–midnight. Bar open daily sophisticated mahogany and brass-accented decor creates a com- ’til 1:30 a.m. Bar menu Mon–Fri 3:30–6:30 p.m., Sat & Sun 10 fortable environment perfect for entertaining. L, D, C, LS. $$$$ “THE MOST ATTRACTIVE RESTAURANT p.m.–midnight. Casual attire. $$$ IN THE NORTH END… Bonfire Steakhouse, 64 Arlington St., Park Plaza Hotel, 617-262- The New England seafood was excellent and the Oceana, Marriott Long Wharf Hotel, 296 State St., 617-227-3838. One 3473. Todd English’s latest culinary triumph is an American steak- sirloin of lamb was the tenderest I’ve had.” of Boston’s premier seafood spots. Boasting a breathtaking view of the house with European influences, boasting a delectable menu that Boston Magazine, January 2004 Harbor, Oceana offers uniquely prepared fresh seafood. B, L, D, SB. $$ spans all the regions of the world. A firewall is the main focus of the three north square, boston (617) 523-0077 dining room, running along the back wall where the cooking www.mammamaria.com Skipjack’s Seafood Emporium, 199 Clarendon St., Copley Square, becomes entertainment. D, C, LS. $$$$ 617-536-3500; 1400 Worcester Rd. (Rte. 9), Natick, 508-628-9900; 55 Needham St., Newton, 617-964-4244. Enjoy fresh-grilled seafood Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, 75 Arlington St., WINE SPECTATOR AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2002 in a comfortable atmosphere. Specialties include blackened tuna 617-357-4810; Royal Sonesta Hotel, 5 Cambridge Parkway, sashimi, Skipjack’s moonfish, Maryland crabcakes and lobsters. Cambridge, 617-661-4810. The menu includes selections of the finest Winner of Best of Boston 2003 award for seafood restaurant. Swing cuts of meats, homemade pastas, fresh seafood and more. Enjoy with the Winiker Orchestra Jazz Brunch Sun 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Boston: lighter fare and a late night menu in the spacious bar and parlor area. L & D Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m. Newton: L & D The Park Square location is close to the theater, historic sites, shop- 11:30 a.m.– 10:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m., Sun ’til 9 p.m. $$ ping and includes functon space for 10–300 people, while the Cambridge location on the banks of the Charles River features an out- Turner Fisheries, Westin Hotel Copley Place, corner of Stuart and door patio and a spectacular view of the Boston skyline. L Mon–Fri Dartmouth Streets, 617-424-7425. Seafood, honest and current, is 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Sun–Tue 5–10 p.m., Wed–Sat ’til 11 p.m.; C, on the menu at one of Boston’s newest and grandest seafood VP. www.davios.com. SEE LOCATOR #2 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ restaurants. Known for its fresh seafood and winner of several Nouvelle Italian Cuisine regional awards, Turner’s features seven-foot-high French windows, *The Oak Room, 138 St. James Ave., Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel, swooping Hollywood banquettes, mahogany paneling and cobalt blue 617-267-5300. This sophisticated restaurant offers a traditional steak- featuring a variety of tile. Private dining rooms accommodate 10–140 guests. Discounted house menu of prime steaks, generous chops and fresh New England meats and fresh fish... VP at The Westin Hotel Copley Place. L, D, C, LS. $$$ seafood. Replete with stately wood paneling and accented with rich Specials prepared daily; draperies and wall ornaments for a comfortable yet elegant feel. B, L, D Wisteria, Doubletree Hotel Boston, 821 Washington St., 617-956- daily. The Oak Bar specializes in classic and contemporary martinis, Pan seared veal with 7900. This restaurant and bar with a nouveau Asian twist offers an offering a raw bar and the complete Oak Room menu. $$$$ “ZAGAT SURVEY, TOP NEWCOMER 2002” grilled shrimp, housemade innovative menu that synthesizes of New England seafood and Asian lobster ravioli and Certified cuisine. Impeccable service and attention to detail are apparent, from REGIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE the unique presentation of entrees on signature china to the welcom- VIETNAMESE Black Angus beef. Full bar ing hotel towel offered upon being seated. L & D. $$$ Dinner Nightly from 5 and private function Pho Pasteur, 119 Newbury St., 617-262-8200; 36 Dunster St., Late night menu until 12:15 a.m. room available. Ye Olde Union Oyster House, 41 Union St., 617-227-2750. Steps Cambridge, 617-864-4100; 137 Brighton Ave., Allston, 617-783- Drinks until 1 a.m. away from Quincy Market on the Freedom Trail stands America’s old- 2340; 682 Washington St., 617-482-7467. Enjoy the flavorful, low- est restaurant, serving Yankee-style seafood, flame-grilled beef and fat cooking of authentic Vietnam in beautiful surroundings. Winner of 226 Hanover St., North End, Boston 333 HANOVER ST., BOSTON chicken. Famous for its oyster bar where Daniel Webster dined daily. “Best of Boston” 1994–99, this unique restaurant offers hearty noo- (617) 742-9200 • www.luccaboston.com 617.227.1777 Specialties include clam chowder, shrimp, swordfish, seafood platters dle soups, fresh spring rolls, Vietnamese salads, shrimp on sugar- and fresh lobster. L, D Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 10 cane and delicious vegetarian dishes. Take-out available. Reser- Valet Parking — Private Function Room email - http://www.2nite.com/Florentine p.m. VP. www.unionoysterhouse.com $$$ vations recommended. L & D. Beer and wine at all locations. $

60 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BOSTON CONFIDENTIAL Hidden History, Insider’s Secrets and more T heatre D istrict D ining

Best Italian Restaurant 2003 —Boston Magazine 177 Tremont St., Boston 617.778.6841 www.teatroboston.com reservations accepted 1 2 3 y courtesy of the Boston Public Librar THE MOLASSES FLOOD OF 1919 2 The story behind the bizarre-but-true Boston disaster by Christopher Wallenberg ost people would never suspect that firehouse and an elevated train track were molasses could be a deadly substance. destroyed. More than 21 people died and 150 MBut on January 15, 1919, residents of were injured. The surrounding area was cov- 4 the North End learned about the dangers of ered in two to three feet of the sticky brown 1 excessive sticky, sweet goo when an unimagin- muck and it took weeks to clean up the mess. 3 CITY LIGHTS—The Theatre able disaster struck their neighborhood. For years, much of downtown reeked of District sparkles at night. Shortly after noon on that tragic day, the molasses, especially on hot days. shrieking sound of metal being torn apart was The fallout was just as bad. There were heard on Commercial Street. Nearby workers 125 lawsuits filed against the company who on their lunchbreak looked up just as a 58-foot owned the tank. The hearings for the case high, 90-foot wide cast iron tank filled with 2.2 were the longest in the history of the 4 million gallons of molasses burst wide open. Massachusetts court, with over 3000 witness- An eight-foot tidal wave of the thick liquid es called and 45,000 pages of testimony and poured out, barreling through the streets of the arguments recorded. North End at an estimated 35 miles per hour. No monument exists to mark this bizarre A trail of devastation was left in its wake. disaster, but if you climb up on the brick ter- Homes and commercial buildings were ripped race along Commercial Street near Copp’s Hill, from their foundations and buried in the you just may be able to detect a hint of onslaught. The Public Works Department, a molasses odor wafting through the air.

62 PANORAMA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 14001400 WWorcesterorcester RdRd (Rte(Rte 9)9) NNatickatick 550808 662828-99009900