Saint-Cirq Lapopie

Visitor’s guide

St-Cirq-Lapopie - Pech Merle

LO T Welcome to Saint-Cirq Lapopie

is one of the “Most beautiful villages of ” leisure, exploring the narrow streets which reveal its medieval structure. Look around you and you will discover there are many gems which catch the eye: a carved beam, a piece of recycled stone in an upper storey, or the magical roofscape of the village as a whole.

Many notable people have preceded you. Joseph Rignault, Henri Martin, Pierre Daura, André Breton, and Man Ray were seduced by this quiet yet charming village, because there is so much to see, to sample and enjoy.

Surrealist movement, who said about Saint-Cirq Lapopie, “I no longer want to be anywhere else.”

colours, perfumes, tastes all mingle in a delicious cocktail, to be enjoyed at your leisure. Come and join us, share our love of this fascinating part the seigneurs of Lapopie fort, the wood turners of the 19th century, and the artists of the 20th century.

You may come across the local wildlife: deer, red squirrels or eagle kites. You can enjoy our exceptionally beautiful natural scenery, or you can take part in one of many outdoor activities, such as canoeing or climbing, or you could sail leisurely down the in one of the ‘gabarots’ to carry barrels of wine from the vineyards of as far as . Take advantage o our way o life …

Quercy saffron

The view from the garden of the Rignault museum (10) Other place to eplore …

All around St Cirq Lapopie there are many attractions and things to do: by air, on foot, on horseback, on bicycles, in canoes, on the water, by land. In the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses de , there is a wealth of natural beauty. There are many trips on offer for you to enjoy.

Limogne-en-Quercy Chemin de halage – Towpath (1) The village of Limogne-en-Quercy (population 820) is 15 km from Enjoy a level walk along towpath beside the Lot from the foot of Saint-Cirq Lapopie on the causse (limestone plateau) from which it gets Originally the towpath was used for pulling in convoy the you will come upon some gariottes (shelters for shepherds who tended In 1845, below the lock at Ganil, the cliff rose vertically from the igues (collapsed caves). river. This meant that the towpath had to be cut into the limestone rock for over a distance of 1 km. and summer (Sundays), and look out for the many events which hap- In 1985 a 30 metre long bas-relief was sculpted by the pen throughout the year. artist Daniel Monnier, in which he represented his image of the Near the hamlet of Bach, lie the Phosphatières (phosphate mines) of Cloup d’Aural. This offers you and your family a geological trip fossils and whirlpools. through time. Departure from the village of St Cirq (10k there and back, 2 hours. Tel 05 65 20 06 72 Good walking shoes essential) or at the Halte Nautique (15 k 2h30). Level walking throughout. Enjoy our wonderful lifestyle …

3 1 5 2 4 Musée de Cuzals (2) The museum is situated in a natural setting above the Célé valley near Sauliac-sur-Célé. This fund of historical memories is a living Grotte de Pech Merle (4) encyclopaedia of former cultures and skills which are, sadly, being Situated in the hills above on the River Célé, this magni- lost in this modern age. You can watch a demonstration of ancient methods of bread making. You can also have a look at the various prehistoric paintings. On your guided tour through the natural types of agricultural geological features, you will see artistic works dating back 20,000 machinery used through the ages, the different kinds of wells, and years to prehistoric times which are both remarkable and moving a house which has remained as it was in the 19th century with all its contents! In the summer there are activities each week and every Guided 1hour, booking advised during the summer. games for children Sunday there is a special theme. Tel : 05 65 31 27 05 May to September – picnic area Tel: 05 65 31 36 43 Croisières (Pleasure boats) on the Lot (5) This is another way of enjoying Saint-Cirq Lapopie and the river which Château de Cénevières (3) Croisière de Saint- Cirq, which passes through Ganil lock. You will be able to explore Built in the 16th century around a 13th century dungeon, this château the natural scenery of the Lot with its cliffs, its towpath cut into the with its dominating presence over the Lot is one of the most renowned rock, and the medieval village perched on its rocky outcrop. In July Renaissance buildings in Quercy. A guide will take you round this his- and August the boat l’Echapée belle will take you to Saint-Cirq and toric residence, still lived in by the Braquilanges family. you can walk back by the towpath or vice versa. This is an entertaining and informative visit highlighted by stories and glimpses into the past with mention of Henry of Navarre and other April to November: return boat trip on the Lot between Bouziès and St Cirq Lapo- pie (1h 15) or in the summer go by boat to Saint-Cirq and return by the towpath Floodlit from April to November - 1 hour be hired by the day or by the hour. House-boats can also be hired by the week. Tel : 05 65 31 27 23 Tel: 05 65 31 72 25 Some history …

The village of Saint-Cirq Lapopie clings to a cliff which overhangs the valley of the River Lot by 100 metres. It is one of the most important historical sites of the Lot valley. In the Middle Ages, Saint-Cirq Lapopie was the administrative centre of one of the four viscomtés* of Quercy. The administration was shared between three feudal dynasties: the Lapopies, the Gourdons and the Cardaillacs. As a result, several castles and strongholds made up the fortress of Lapopie and dominated the village. * France used to be divided into sections of land called vicomtés, comtés and duchés ruled by landlords who took their titles accordingly. doorways, there are many old houses which have been preserved with their half-timbered façades which date back to the 13th to houses on the street are separated by narrow channels used for rainwater and waste water from latrines and sinks.

Arcades of shops once opened out into the streets. This reminds us of the Wood Turning (7) commerce practised by the various craftsmen who created the wealth of Saint-Cirq Lapopie: leather workers in Pélissaria Street, coppersmiths in Peyrolerie Street, and especially wood turners or “roubinetaires” whose workshops pro- duced wooden knobs, bowls, goblets and taps for wine barrels.

Along the river, at the foot of the Lapopie rock, the mills, barrages, ports, locks and the towpath are evidence of the glorious period of shipping ac- Wood turning became an important industry In the 20th century, Saint-Cirq Lapopie became a favoured haven for pain- in the village before the 15th century, after ters and writers. The post-impressionist painter Henri Martin (1860–1943), the second phase of the Hundred Years War. the photographer Man Ray (1890–1976), and many others stayed here at With the development of commercial wine the invitation of the famous gallery owner and enlightened art lover, Joseph growing in the 19th century, this craft flou- rished. Wood turners or “roubinetaires” have Rignault. In 1922 he undertook the renovation of a medieval house, the been making sets of taps for casks up un- Château de la Gardette, which is now the Musée Rignault. André Breton til the beginning of the 20th century. There (1896–1966) was also attracted to the village. His house, l’Auberge des were once as many as 40 such craftsmen in Mariniers, is the oldest in the village. In the 1950s this became the home the village. Wood from the Causses provided the perfect life in Saint-Cirq Lapopie. raw material for the turners for making goblets, moulds for knobs and bowls. From Today, Saint-Cirq Lapopie has 217 inhabitants, thirty of whom remain in the the 19th century, the tap makers of Saint-Cirq town over winter. More than 400,000 visitors come each year. Situated in Lapopie became famous throughout France for their taps for barrels, principally for casks the heart of the Parc National des Causses du Quercy, Saint-Cirq Lapopie carrying which were transported belongs to the prestigious Association, les Grands Sites Midi-Pyrénées. Saint- downstream along the Lot. Cirq offers you a warm welcome and demonstrates the art of living well. Today, Patrick Vinel is the only surviving wood turner carrying on the tradition. He is the descendant of five generations of wood Further information … turners, a trade passed on from father to son. This craftsman continues to make objects in Guided visits for groups all year round wood, which are sold as souvenirs to tourists, Specialized guided visits for individuals in Spring and Summer and he is keeping these skills alive by giving demonstrations in his workshop. Place to visit …

2. Medieval home o the bourgeoisie main market street, Rue Droite or the Grande Rue. This indicates that there was a row of single storey houses serving as shops, built in the 13th or 14th centuries along the same lines.

3. Maison de la Fourdonne This is reached by a cobbled street paved with pebbles and accessed through an archway. The space within consists of an open-air theatre and garden, which are designated for cultural and historical performances. The tower contains a 16th-17th century spiral staircase.

6. Maison Daura, international reidence for artists This 13th century medieval house with trifoliate mullion windows and columns became the workshop of the painter Pierre Daura (1896–1976), a native of Minorca. He bought the house in 1929 and moved in the next year, and spent the rest of his life restoring it and the 14th century house next door. It also features trifoliate mul- lion windows which open onto the Grande Rue. It was extended between the 15th carved by Pierre Daura under the wooden beam in a St Andrews cross. Today it is an international residence for artists run by the Conseil Régional Midi-Pyrénées. Medieval house, former workshop of the painter Pierre Daura (6)

8. Saint-Cirq Lapopie church The church is dedicated to Saint Cyr (the origin of Saint-Cirq Lapopie) and Saint Juliette, his mother. He was the youngest martyr in The gothic church was built from 1522 over the former Romanesque parish church. It has preserved the remains of the original acanthus leaf decoration as well as fragments of 13th century murals. One of the side chapels is dedicated to Saint Catherine, patron saint of wood turners. used when selling corn in the market. Behind the church there are terrasses and viewpoints over the valley.

14. Rue de la Péliaria - ling the busy trade of tanners after whom this street was named.

15. Porte de la Péliaria (Péliaria Gateway) The last gateway in the town, at the far end of the Rue de la Pélissaria, which runs into the Rue Droite, is sometimes known as the Porte de and is the best preserved. It is similar to the Porte de Peyrolerie, whose remains are still visible at the other side of the town, as you approach la Rue Droite. Maison Daura (6) P4 € 3.4€50€ P6 2 1. Porte de la Perolerie ■ Originally at the entrance to the Rue de la Peyrolerie, here 1 Bancourel you will see the remains of a gate defended by a portcullis. P5 2. Medieval home o the bourgeoisie 3€ GR36 main market street, Rue Droite or the Grande Rue. This indicates that there was a row of single storey houses serving as shops, built in the 13th or 14th centuries along the same lines. ■ Place 2 du Sombral 4

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Fond de plan : service patrimoine de Saint-Cirq Lapopie 2011, reproduit avec l’autorisation de la mairie de Saint-Cirq Lapopie Te seigniorial fort :

The fort of Saint-Cirq Lapopie is situated on top of the narrow outcrop overlooking the Lot Valley and the medieval village. Since the 13th century the fort was divided between three dominant families: the Lapopies, the Cardaillacs and the Gourdons. The site was abandoned in the 16th century, in favour of homes that were more convenient. 4. Te rock o La Popie At the far end of the cliff, la popie (from the occitane ‘popa’, a promontory in the and revised in the 12th century. The foundations of the main tower and the seigneur’s quarters which overlook the fort are all that remain, together with the remains of a panoramic view over the Lot valley.

5. Te château de leaning on a Romanesque dungeon with buttresses. Built inside the former courtyard of the fort between the beginning of the 13th and the 14th century, it is attributed to Ruins of the château de Cardaillac (5) the Cardaillac family. It was modernised in the 15th century, before being gradually abandoned following several attempts at destruction by Louis XI, Charles VIII and Henry of Navarre. The terraces of the castle offer a stunning view over the rooftops of the village.

9. 16th century Hôel – “Château de St-Cirq Lapopie” - tion of contemporary works, open all year.

10. Musée Rignault cliff. It was built beneath the fort by Seigneur Hébrard of Saint-Sulpice who moved his home outside the seigneurial boundary. Today it houses the Department’s museum, which has temporary and permanent exhibitions from April to October. It was beautifully restored by the art lover Joseph Rignault, who was initially attracted by the village of Saint-Cirq Lapopie, and who then encouraged a number of other artists to come here. Another attraction for visitors are the gardens which provide an unobstructed view over the Lot valley. 16th century private house (9) 11. L’Auberge de Mariniers (Te Sailors’ Ret) This house is the oldest in the village, and dates from the 13th century. This stronghold with its gothic windows is remarkable for the fact that it combines a house with a 12th century tower. This is typical of the houses lived in by knights. It was formerly the home of André Breton who came here to spend every summer until the end of his life, 28 September 1966.

12. Place du Carol Bordering on the garden and watchtower of the painter Henri Martin, this open area leads down towards the canal bank and medieval mill of Aulanac, near the lock.

13. La Chapelle de Mariniers (Te Sailors’ Chapel) There are many chapels scattered along the Lot valley. This little 16th century chapel, now ruined, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, protector of sailors and boat people. The mariners’ inn / André Breton’s house (11) Vers Dublin Amsterdam Berlin London Brussel

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Vers Toulouse Saint-Cirq Lapopie Pech Merle 00 33 (0)5 65 31 31 31 www.saint-cirqlapopie.com Graphisme : Marie Teyssèdre - www.madmoizel-design.com / Crédits photos: Virginie Seguin, Julie Recoussine, Dominique Viet, Pierrick Navizet - ADT / Impression: Grapho12 - 2013 - Grapho12 Impression: / ADT - Navizet Pierrick Viet, Dominique Recoussine, Julie Seguin, Virginie photos: Crédits / www.madmoizel-design.com - Teyssèdre Marie : Graphisme